Thank you very much Zack. That was much appreciated, hello, everybody. How are you guys doing this evening as usual got a few topics I want to cover and then I'll get here. Guys's questions in the chat got quite a few email questions from the last couple.

Videos and stream that I want to go ahead and cover so, but I just want to say thank you guys very much for coming in here to watch this and let's hope I can get all your questions answered. So I want to address it's one that I get all the time and I'm probably gon na. You know first, for you guys that watch this stream on a regular, you're, probably gon na, hear me saying the same thing again, but people you know. I constantly get the question where people want to know how I got started in the trade okay, I'm gon na just I'm not gon na spend forever on this.

I'm just gon na cover it real quick for the guys that don't already know so. I grew up working with my father from a really young age - okay, it's kind of funny because probably from junior high school, like even an elementary school, I can remember you know whenever I was off school or if you had to work late or something I would Go with him, I remember being a little kid holding his flashlight sitting on his bucket and him getting angry at me, because the flashlight was going all over the place, because I was like a little kid distracted by anything. Okay, flash forward to just before high school started working with him during the summer as kind of a regular thing kind of funny, because I remember getting paid $ 20 a day that was my. My salary was twenty bucks, a damn sure we broke some labor laws.

There, but you know it was what it was for me at the time being like what 13 14 years old. That was a lot of money. You know to work a whole summer and work. You know five days a week at twenty bucks a day.

You know I didn't you know that was before the internet really and things like that so or the internet was still like brand-new. So not everybody had it, and you know that was a lot of money but anyways. So I decided that I wanted absolutely nothing to do with this trade hated it I hated the heat I hated working outside. I hated the hard work climbing up on the roofs and you know I mean wasn't angry about it, but just I did this wasn't what I wanted to do.

I went to work for a body shop working on cars because I took like an auto shop class in high school did that for about two and a half years. I think and then decided that that wasn't what I wanted to do and I came to work for my dad full-time went to school, went to Mount San Antonio Community College at nighttime, so I did not go to school full-time. I work during the day and then went to school at nighttime and basically, since 2002, I've been going strong. My dad and I run the company together now yeah and that's pretty much my story.

Okay, I learned you know old-school methods. I learned new school methods. I mixed in between and kind of came up with my method of doing things. Okay, as you guys see in my videos, I'm very, very methodical, and I have a certain way of doing it.

I joke with people, but I'm serious too, with with people that work for me or people that work you know have worked with me. I always tell them. I have no problem with it. You know you doing it your way.

So long as you get the same result as if you did it my way when I start to get angry as when people don't do it my way and it takes them longer or they don't come to the same result, and you know to an extent I Mean I understand people got to learn and they got to make some mistakes, I'm cool with that. But when you know anyways, I digress I'm going off on a tangent there. But as far as the other question, I get all the time and again I'm gon na cover. This too is is, what's the best way to get into HVAC new people that are either in trade, school and or people that don't know anything about it.

Okay, what I'd highly highly suggest you do is reach out to your local service companies. You know: look on the internet for the local refrigeration companies find one see if anybody's willing to take on an apprentice. Okay, I highly suggest you enroll in a community college program like a night school, you don't need to go full-time. In my opinion, okay, this is just the way that I do it just enroll in school.

Take you know one two classes get a semester done. If you can, while you still have another job so that way when you, when you finally do or if, if you don't go to the HVAC service company, yet if you go to them and show them that hey I've been going to school for about a month, Two months, whatever it is, and I really like this trade - it just shows them initiative. Okay, the other thing that I recommend you know. Let me go back on that.

I it's not that I don't like private schools. Okay, I like community colleges because you can pay for them one unit at a time you can go to night school and you're, not paying a big giant lump sum up front. So if you can work something out with a local private school to where you don't have to do that, then so be it! I'm not saying that the private schools don't give you good education. I know good private schools and I know bad private schools.

I know good community colleges and horrible community colleges, so you need to interview the school. You need to do your research, you know and remember when it comes time to working for an HVAC service company, you need to interview that company just as much as they're interviewing you call the local supply houses. Ask them. You know what people think of that service company or the service techs happy that kind of stuff and then offer up your time to the service company.

This is really important. Go to the service company and say hey. I want to know what it's like to work with. You guys.

Can I do a ride-along, I'm not gon na charge, you you don't have to pay me. You know, offer up a day of your time and go do a ride-along, maybe two days, maybe three days. Whatever you think you need to work with one of their technicians and get to know what it's really like to work with that company. That would be my suggestion.

Okay - and you know that that's not the only way to do it, but you know that's just my suggestion to do it and that's how I think you should get started in the trade okay. So now that I got that done, I will definitely get to the chat here in a minute, but I want to cover ups or cover some of these topics that I have on here. Real quick, okay, let's see what I want to start with, is a quick little tool that I think, is a very important tool, and this is a groove Gage. Okay, this particular one is made by Browning it's for checking belt belts and then adjustable motor pulleys, and/or, sheaves, okay, and what you do is.

Essentially I mean it's pretty plain and simple. It says right on this. I can't show it to the camera, but it says right on this that, if you're doing a pulley that is over five inches and it's an a groove, you use this side. And then it says right here.

If it's under five point, four inches use this side. Okay, so we've got a pulley right here or a sheave whatever you want to call it. This is an adjust. I call this an adjustable motor pulley, but some people call it a sheave, okay and essentially, what you're gon na do is you're just gon na gauge.

How it fits in there, okay and if there's big gaps, you got ta, make sure you pick the right side, okay, because it does make a difference and you're looking for big gaps, basically between the pulley wall and the edge of this piece right here. Okay, I'm gon na be honest with you. I don't really use this tool very much anymore, just because I'm so used to knowing what a motor pulley or a motor sheaves inside walls look like, and I can usually look at it and say: okay. That thing is time to replace, but this is a great tool for you to learn how to gauge what a good pulley and/or sheave is and what you know a bad one is okay, it's basically adjustable for all the different motor sheaves and motor sizes.

Okay, you can get these at. I think I picked this up at united refrigeration. I think it was on the back wall. Okay, but i also in this video in the show notes of this video.

I'm gon na have a link and it's just an amazon link. You can find these on Amazon too, and I think this is a really really important tool that will help people. Okay, so highly suggest you guys picking these up. I think they're like 5 or 6 bucks.

So it's not like an expensive tool. You can see mine's really dirty because I use it and I don't know if it just shows up, but it's covered in grease and stuff. So, but it's definitely a cool tool and it really really helps you to learn how to tell when you, when it's time to change a pulley or achieve okay. Another thing is that if you don't understand how important these walls are right here, okay on the sheave, they wear down belts and then also they slow down your fit your blower okay, if you have a worn out motor pulley, end or sheave, and it's not making Good contact with the belt it will slow the blower down.

Okay, therefore, delivering less airflow to your your system, okay and causing problems. Okay, I'm talking about an air conditioning system, but I mean I guess you can use this on. A belt drive refrigeration, compressor too. Okay, now, when you get into the big stuff, that's when you're gon na need to get into vibration, analysis and laser levels and different things like that.

That's a little bit beyond me: okay, I'm working in a small little restaurant stuff. So I'm just working on exhaust fans and ACS and different things. Okay, but you know, belt life goes a long way if you can extend the life of your belts, potentially depending on the contracts that you have set up your either saving the customer money or you're. Saving your company money, okay and you're you're making equipment operate more efficiently, okay and then, at the same time, in a legit way, without ripping off a customer, you're, potentially making a sale for your customer or for your company.

Okay - and you know like, for instance, if you're doing a preventative maintenance, that's what that's! That's, what you're doing the preventative maintenance for? Okay, so don't be afraid or ashamed to say. You got a bad motor pulley! Okay, because that's what they're paying you to do, they're paying you to go there and give them your expertise? Okay, so rant over, but really really consider picking up. One of these, you can get them at your local supply house, motor shops, United refrigeration. You may find them at your other places you might like.

I said, I'm gon na have a link in the video show notes for Amazon, so you can definitely check that out and do what you guys will with that. Okay, all right, let me go ahead and check that off my list. I've got like a little notepad right here, and it kind of just is my stuff that I want to cover and I'm not necessarily gon na get to it all, but definitely help so I'll cover that one off okay. Next thing I want to cover, and then I'll get to some of the stuff in the chat is a very common question that I get is what what books do? I recommend to the HVAC service tech that wants to become a refrigeration technician? Okay, it's like saying it over and over again, but I can't say it enough: commercial refrigeration for air-conditioning technicians.

This is the same book that I gave away last livestream and to the guy that won it. I still have it sitting on my desk. I haven't forgotten about you. I have your information, I'm gon na ship, it out to you so the other book and again, I'm sorry there'll, be a link to this in the video too, because everybody always asked for a link okay down at the bottom of the show notes of the video Commercial refrigeration for air conditioning technicians by dick Wars.

This explains starting components. This explains refrigeration, expansion, super-heated explains it all. Okay, so a great great book, the last one, it's a very, very old book, but I highly suggest it is the Copeland refrigeration manual. So this has a lot of great information about line sizing, it's not the end-all, be-all Bible, but it gives you a great introduction into how refrigeration systems work.

Okay, this is a five-part book. It comes with these little manuals inside of it. This is what I used when I was in trade school. I said this last time too, you can see - I have little tabs in here, because this is the one on line, sizing and different things.

Great great book they'll also be a link in the show notes too, but you can just look up Copeland refrigeration manuals on Google. You can actually your local Copeland rep. They can get them for you. There they're not too expensive.

I honestly don't know the exact price on it, but it's not too bad, so definitely something I would consider okay. So let me see if we've got any questions in the chat. What I'd really appreciate you guys do is put the questions in caps lock. It really helps just in my moderator and myself field.

The questions. Okay, mayhem, refrigeration asks. Does the worst book go over racks as well? It it kind of goes over racks? Okay, it covers a little bit, but it's not going to go crazy in depth into some of the capacity controls and different things you might have in racks. Okay, especially I'm talking like supermarket rex, but it gives you a general idea of you know how commercial refrigeration works.

So, yes, it does a little bit as far as a book that I could recommend for supermarket refrigeration. I honestly don't have that. I don't have the knowledge to tell you which book to use for supermarket refrigeration, I'm kind of bedding to think that there's, not one and you're, probably just gon na, have to look at manufacturer's information. Okay, another thing is any manufacturer of a piece of equipment that you're working on.

They usually have great literature, especially if they're one of the big companies - okay, Copeland, has great information on their website or Emerson climate. You know all of them, they all have great information. So you just got to do a google search, okay, it's kind of funny, because I kind of lurk and pay attention to some of these Facebook groups, and I see people asking some very repetitive questions and I have to give you guys some advice. Okay, especially you young, guys or new guys that are coming into the trade, you know you need to do a little work for yourself before you ask for help.

Okay. So if someone messages me and says hey, how does this particular box work more than likely I'm just gon na send them the instruction manual for the box. Okay and say: hey figure it out and then call me back with a technical question. All right, I don't mean to be a punk, but you got to understand I'm getting a million questions a day same thing in the Facebook groups, some of the veteran guys they get upset because someone will come in and they'll say hey what should my pressures be On this air, conditioner, okay, I'm gon na ask you what kind of saturation temperature are you looking for? What should your coil 10? Be? I'm not gon na tell you what your pressure should be: okay, because there's a lot of variables that go into that.

So you guys that are new. It really really helps if you guys do some research for yourself. Okay, one of my friends made a joke one time and someone had asked him how to do something and he was like joking around and he says, ask the Google, but it's true: ask Google Google will tell you. This is how you do it.

Okay, there's a lot of information that can come from Google. If someone asked me a question in one of these streams - and I don't know the answer - I'm just gon na google it and then I'm gon na field, the information and say: okay, this looks legit and I'm gon na pass it on. Okay. So Google's a big thing: you guys got to be able to do that, research for yourself and you can't be leaning on other people to tell you how to do these things.

Okay, all right! Here's a question: do you only work in restaurants or do you do other places, and this was Samuel - Samuel 99 % of the work I do is restaurants, so I do air conditioning, refrigeration, ice machines, exhaust fans, basically HVAC are and refrigeration. I guess that's all the same. I just said it already: 99 % of the work I do as restaurants. Okay, I do a little bit of work for like a hotel chain.

I do a little bit of work. First and industrial shops do an air conditioning work, but 99 % is restaurant stuff. Okay, so on any given day, I don't work on the hot side in the restaurant, so I didn't work on fryers and flat tops, but I do you know the electrical from my equipment. I do the plumbing from my equipment and then obviously the you know: refrigeration, work and stuff.

So all right, let's see what else we got here. Okay, so the Nasus! You ask how many BTUs do you need per square foot for a mini split? That's not a rule of thumb. Number. That's gon na honestly figure that out what you need to do is you need to do a proper load calculation on the space that you want to cool now.

Am I saying that you can't just go? Get a one ton or a two ton unit and throw it in there. No, you could. Okay, but depending on your climate, are you in Florida? Do you have high humidity? Do you have low humidity? If you over cool the space, you might add humidity, there's all kinds of different things. You can do.

Okay, so you have to do a load calculation. If you don't want to do a load calculation yourself, there is people, I'm sure. Maybe someone in this chat will even say: they'll. Do it for you or there's their service, there's companies that basically will come out and just do a load calculation for you.

They may just ask for information from your house and tell you what you know what the load is on your room: okay, but as far as how many BTUs you need for a certain room, there's a lot of factors that go into that because you have to Know how much heat is either infiltrating or leaving that room? You know you have to know the thicknesses of the wall, the insulation and the walls. You have to know the ceiling, the floor, the windows, all that stuff comes into play. Okay, so if you want your equipment to work properly and you want it to be efficient, you need to do a load calculation. That's the best way.

You can do it. It sounds scary, but it's really not that big of a deal. Okay, because, most of the time we're not doing these calculations by hand anymore we're using a computer program so input some numbers, some measurements, you can do a block load calculation figure out your windows different things like that. Okay feel free to reach out to me.

As usual HVAC our videos at gmail.com - and I can give you some more information about that. Okay, all right, let's see what else we have here see if I'm missing anything. If I miss any questions, guys, don't hesitate to put them again. Okay, it looks like I'm not missing anything yeah how many of you yeah.

I don't see any questions coming in yet so you guys go ahead and do that I'm going to go ahead and keep keep covering my stuff. Now, for those of you that are watching this stream and don't already know the this is a YouTube live stream right. You guys might be watching this after the fact or you might be watching this live if you're watching this after the fact there's a live chat going on okay and a lot of times, people that come in live they're, watching this and they're in the chat room. So I don't, I don't know how many people are in the chat room right now, but there's quite a few people in there and they're all just thrown in questions and commenting.

There's also conversations that happen in the chat room, two that are aside from the video and there's nothing wrong with that, but so just so that you guys know you guys that are thrown in these super chats. Thank you guys so very much. I really really appreciate it really appreciate it. Okay, all right so chris cooley says chris: do you repair hot side, restaurant equipment as well? No, sir, I don't I don't do any hot side work.

I say stupid. I stay super busy dealing with the refrigeration and air conditioning. My stress level and anxiety is already through the roof. I don't need to add another trade into it, so here in Southern California, it's very common to have a refrigeration and air conditioning company and then a separate hot side company.

It's very interesting because I hear some guys that are in other states where they only do refrigeration or they only do HVAC see here in SoCal. That's not very common SoCal. You know you it's going to be difficult for you to just handle HVAC and or just refrigeration, if you're working with restaurants. So but it's okay, you know we do get by with not having to do hot side work.

So all right. What are my thoughts on Trenton equiptment, Cody? Okay, I am I'll, say this about any brand of equipment, except for there's a few that I'll name but Trenton is decent. Okay, they make what I consider to be quality equipment. It seems to be made very well, but it all depends on who's working on it.

Okay, for the same reason that I think in the last streams, a homeowner had come in and said which one's better trained or Linux or whatever it all depends on the service company. That's working on your equipment. Are they comfortable working on Trenton equipment? Okay, I'm comfortable working on it, so I'm good with it. Okay, it all depends on the service techs that you have and working on your equipment.

But as far as Trenton goes, I think it's decent stuff, they're schematics are pretty easy to read. I don't work on a lot of their stuff, but I mean when I do come across it yeah nothing wrong on some of their fractional horsepower condense condensing units. There they're convinced your families are kind of goofy those little square, weird ones with some weird brackets, but I mean it is what it is so any load calculation software. I recommend.

No, I'm sorry. I don't have a recommendation. Maybe some guys in the chat here can say I mean I know of some like right. Soft is probably one of the bigger ones, but I don't use load calculation software on a bit on a regular use, refrigeration software to do load bike, heat load calcs on refrigeration units.

But I don't do air conditioning load calculations very much, so I can't really recommend that, as far as like the refrigeration load calculations, I'm going to use probably Russ box, which is Russell refrigeration, that's their software. It's on their website. I showed that at my last stream. That's the one that I used to do my refrigeration load calculations.

So alright, again guys throw your questions in a caps lock. So that way we get them. Ok, Southern California gets hot yeah; ok, ok, so ice on a walk-in freezer floor. This is one that I had so someone has large large massive amounts of ice on the floor and they wanted to know how to clear it up.

First off. If you have a raised floor on a walk-in freezer, you never ever want to use water on it. Ok, because what can happen is the water can get underneath the raised floor and lift it up and then you'll have to replace the whole thing. Ok, so be very, very cautious about putting water on a walk-in freezer floor.

What I use to get the ice off the floor, it's just going to take some time, a hammer and a chisel and very carefully do it yeah. You don't want to dent the floor underneath the ice, and especially if it's tile, you don't want to break the tiles so, but before you even go that far, you need to figure out why there's ice on the floor and solve that problem? Is it a floor? Leak coming from outside coming in is, is the drain pan plugged up that kind of stuff so solve the problem of where the water is coming from first then deal with the ice best-case scenario, your turn, the box off. You dry it out and you know get rid of it, but there can be problems with that too. If you turn the box off because then the water can seep under the floors.

Ok, so I personally just use a chisel and a sledgehammer tap tap tap. Take it out in big chunks and be gone with it. So, ok, so Cody, you said you usually install heat craft, but they didn't have the condenser you needed, so you want with trenton yeah. I don't see anything wrong with Trenton man.

I mean I don't like. I said I don't deal with him a ton, but it's decent equipment that a little bit that I have sold in it's decent, so don't see any problems with that. Ok, let's see what else ok mayhem! I haven't seen Ralph in here yet Dallas fan, but I have as information. If you need it, so don't hesitate if he knew you guys Ralph.

If you want his information, send me an email, hvac, our videos at gmail.com and I'll get you Ralph's information. So ok! Next question: oh, this is a really interesting one. So there's a gentleman from Russia who watches my videos - and you know he sent me a message and he said he was very surprised and kind of disappointed, but also you know kind of laughing about it that the United States doesn't have better technology than what he Thought: ok, what he means by when he's watching my videos. He sees a lot of electromechanical or mechanical defrost clocks, mechanical temperature controllers, and he would expect that we'd be using a lot more digital stuff.

Ok, I also get that same comment from people in the United Kingdom, England and even Australia, saying hey they're tripping out because we still have mechanical defrost clocks. You know digital is coming here, but we still use a lot of mechanical stuff and there's reasons why we like mechanical I'm a fan of mechanical, especially in certain situations like a grassland clock, all go between grassland and Paragons. But I'm a fan of the grassland clocks, because I can put a long defrost in the middle of the night, but then a short defrost during the day. One of the problems with the digital's is at least the the more popular ones.

Right now is that you don't have the ability to set different lengths on the defrost, so let's say you're using a key to therm, which is one of my favorite temperature controllers right now, because as built-in defrost and it's a great control, but the key to therm Does not have the ability of having an hour long defrost at 2 a.m. and then 15 minute defrost for the rest of the day. It doesn't do work that way. You set one defrost duration, at least on the smaller ones, like the key to therm, tenth plus defrost.

You set one duration and it's that way for the amount of defrost you put in the controller. So you know, but there's a lot of things we're slow about. In the United States too, for instance, our refrigeration, a refrigerant regulations right in in the United Kingdom and in other countries, our 404 a is illegal period to use period. Here in Southern California, we just passed a restriction saying that we can't install it on new installations, but we can still use it for service.

You know, r22 is illegal to use in other countries. So it's we are kind of slow on some things which I'm happy about because that one's kind of a pain in the butt, the refrigerant regulations - but it's all coming everything's coming here. 2020 - is a big year for everybody, because all these new regulations are coming in. It's going to be a disaster for everybody, that's not prepared! So ok, I'm gon na look over here at the chat.

Okay, so Carden, you said you're sixteen and in trade school. Is there something I need to pick up on the most in my shop to help in the field? Cardon? First off, that's great, that you're 16, because we need more people, your age in this trade? No matter where you live, this trade needs younger blood coming into it. The first thing I can tell you Cardin, don't take offense to this, but you're 16. So the first thing that I instantly think is: is that you're you know, I don't know what the generation is called right now, but you know we we have a stereotype of younger people and that they are stubborn or you know, don't want to work hard or Different things, I'm not saying that's you, but I'm just saying, there's a stigma that we have or a stereotype that we have about younger generations.

Prove that stereotype or stigma wrong. Okay, be observant, don't be afraid to get dirty, don't be afraid to work hard and don't be afraid to work long hours. Okay, put in the time. It's not gon na happen overnight.

You're, not gon na learn, refrigeration. Tomorrow, okay, it's gon na take time just be observant, you know, don't work for a shop that wears you down and beat you up. You know you got to get paid correctly and you got to get compensated fairly and stuff, but at the same time you know it's gon na be hard. Okay, but put in the time it's gon na be very beneficial to you.

You have an advantage over a lot of guys. Okay, because you're super young you're you're super I'm assuming flexible, you're you're. You know you can probably fit into tight spaces. You know, you know what I'm saying I mean you know.

Most of us, refrigeration guys are getting a little bit bigger. Okay, I'm included in that one all right and it's kind of hard for me to fit into some tiny places that I could fit into 15 years ago. It's just what happens. Okay, but you know, do a lot of reading read up on anything.

You can ask people what you should you know what kind of equipment they're working on if you're not doing service calls with everybody, just do your research and find out what they're working on read up about it and you know, don't be a punk but ask questions At the right time, if you're curious about something you know volunteer your time on a weekend to go, do some service calls and learn. You know that's not a bad thing: either: okay, so okay, so Richard Ryan says electronic expansion valve or thermostatic expansion about what do you prefer to install on cool and freezer rooms? And why okay? So I have I'm gon na be honest with you. I have never installed an electronic expansion valve on a new system. Okay, I work on a few systems that have electronic expansion valves.

I really like them. The electronic expansion valves that I have worked on have all been stepper motor valves and they are very, very awesome and I have not had a problem with them cross my fingers. Okay, I've worked on some heat craft equipment. I've worked on some rustle equipment that all has electronic expansion valves.

The only problems we have with the electronic expansion valve controlled systems are usually sensors, going bad, okay, sensors that fail and the valve stops working. I have heard people say that you know they have valves, fail a lot of different things, in my opinion, just like any refrigeration component majority of the time. A failure of a refrigeration component is either user error or installation error, meaning that they're not purging with nitrogen they're, not brazing, properly they're overheating the valve the system's contaminated things like that. So as we follow more proper refrigeration practices and do better installs these these high-efficiency components, electronic expansion valves that kind of stuff are gon na, you know start being more and more popular and last a lot longer.

Okay, unfortunately, we are definitely at a disadvantage and have a problem right now, because our trade is hurting for technicians and we we have probably the the biggest influx of new technology coming into our industry right now. But yet we have a huge amount of our industry retiring okay and we have new blood coming in that has to learn refrigeration and has to learn the new technology. So we have a problem here, but we're gon na have to get over it. Okay, also, we have a lot of people out there.

Teaching polar refrigeration practices as far as installation and service goes. Okay nobody's perfect, but you got to do your best to do things right. Okay, I'm gon na hit a question right now and then I got a really really great topic here. That's gon na cover something um.

Okay, let's see what is the sequence of operation on a walk-in freezer es? Okay, hey Justin, help me not to forget to answer that question. I'm gon na cover something else, real quick! Yes, don't let me forget, I will cover the sequence of operation on a walk-in freezer. But let me let me finish with what I got in my head: real, quick, okay. I want to cover how I go about doing an evacuation on a system and I'm talking vacuuming the system down.

Okay, first off, there's, there's there's some great information out there. Right now, the the technique - it's not even the technology. We have great resources to learn how to do. Excuse me proper evacuations right now, resources are so much easier and what I mean by resources is the amount of information out there to help us to do things properly is out there now.

The one thing I want to say is: vacuum. Technology has not changed. Vacuum technology has been the same forever. Okay, I mean the only thing that has changed is we might have a little bit more of a high efficient pump that came out or some fancier hoses, but the whole concept of evacuating a system is still the same.

When people say I don't follow those fancy new practices, it's not new, it's just that they were forgotten about and/or ignored the practices of pulling a system down below 500 microns have been around before any of you, and I that are watching. This have been involved in refrigeration, okay, the dates go all the way back, there's always been an importance to get all the air out of the system, all the moisture and all the contaminants out. Okay, but we just kind of went down a path where it wasn't that big of a deal, especially when we were dealing with mineral oil, you know with with r22 our 502 refrigerant r12. Everything was mineral, okay and it was a very forgiving oil, meaning that if there was moisture in there yeah, you know it wasn't that big of a deal it still mattered, but it wasn't a huge big deal.

But then we have all these new lubricants. That came in polyester PVE, different ones right PvE supposed to be the next saving grace right, because it's not as hydroscopic. I think that's a big ol fancy word for absorbs moisture. I think, but you know, polyester oil is very hydro scopic.

It absorbs moisture really easily. Okay, so what I do when it comes to an evacuation first off, I am NOT gon na lie to you and say that I always use my a pion hoses or my vacuum in my true-blue hoses to do a vacuum. Okay, cuz! I don't all right! I do when I can. I will use a vacuum pump with a hose directly connected to it, connected to a core tool on my system with no service gauges if it's convenient and if I can get that in there.

But if not, I will use gauges to evacuate a system, it's not ideal, but there's times that you have to do it. Okay, so you know nobody is perfect and nobody does it the whole. You know always like that. All right people do things.

You know we. I think we have this with us guys that are making videos and s guys that are influencers on social media. You know we have this thing about us that were gods, we're not we're humans, our stinks just like yours. Okay, we make mistakes, so don't believe that they're all perfect because nobody's perfect okay, we all cut corners.

Sometimes you know you have to make educated guesses. Sometimes sometimes you got to do what you got to do to get the customer going. Okay, now so in a perfect world, I'm gon na take my my vacuum: hoses: okay, they're, either gon na be my a peon that are you know 3/8 diameter on the inside or they're gon na, be my new true-blue hoses that are three quarter inch diameter on The inside which I've used them once in they're, pretty badass, okay, the true blue ones, will pull down a system. Pretty quick, you don't have to worry about anything as long as you hook everything up, but I will connect the hoses directly to the vacuum pump.

I will connect it to the system, but before they make the connections to the system, they will have coal removal tools on them, so vacuum core removal tools, okay, and I will remove the Schrader course. I think I read something that says: if you use a Schrader core, it only allows one CFM to flow through that sure. No, it's less than one CFM, I think, to flow through that Schrader core. So it doesn't matter how big of a pump you put on there if you're using Schrader cores, you might as well be using a one CFM pump right so remove the Schrader quartz that speeds up the vacuum.

Okay, open up all the Silla note valves in the system. If you don't want to energize it electrically, take a silhouette that you can get from spoilin or any other manufacturer. All the supply houses have them. You set it over the sill enoyed, it pulls it up and it allows flow to go through the system.

Okay, you want in a perfect world, then this it doesn't always happen. This way, you want to put your vacuum gauge as far away from your pump as possible. So in a perfect world, go put your vacuum gauge down in the walking freezer evaporator on the superheat port, okay and then pull from both sides on the condense unit. But am I gon na do that all the time? No, I'm not! Okay and a perfect.

You know it. It's not always practical to do that kind of stuff. Okay, so, but I try alright, but so what I'm gon na do typically is put my my micron gauge on my vacuum: core removal tool, there's a port off the side of it that has a Schrader on it. Okay, your your vacuum, core removal tool.

You know you, you need to be, and that's another important thing too, and I'm gon na make a video on this guys. That'll kind of visually explain it, but I'm just kind of going over real, quick. You need to hook up to the side on the vacuum core removal tool that doesn't have the Schrader on it. Okay, the Schrader goes to the the micron gauge the hose that you're vacuuming through goes to the side without the Schrader okay, I had someone do that.

One time where they had their hose hooked up to the charade report, which was silly but anyways, that's a whole other thing, but I'm gon na try to pull the system down okay below 500 microns. If it's a refrigeration system, you know they're recommending right now to go to 200 microns and do a decay test, which means you turn everything off and valve everything off and you watch to make sure that the pressures don't rise above for a 200 micron test. I don't want it to rise above 500 for a 500 micron test. You don't want it to rise above a thousand.

Each manufacturer is gon na be different on what they want you to do. If you're working on vrf, they might have stricter limits, different things. Okay, so now the thing that I want to cover the most is is if you're working on a system, that's pumped down, okay, so on a refrigeration, walk-in cooler. Let's say that I find a leak at the evaporator coil and or I need to change an expansion valve.

Okay, I have the ability of front seating, the king valve on the receiver on the outlet of the receiver and basically letting the system run until the low side pressure goes down to or close to zero. Okay, then, the system shuts off via the low pressure control. Well with that being said, I can now change that expansion valve and still leave the pressure in the high side of the system. Okay, when it comes time to vacuuming the system, I'm only vacuuming down the low-side port, okay, so basically from the outlet of the receiver.

All the way back up to the suction valve, on the compressor now, when you have refrigerant still in the system in that situation, it's being held back by the reed on the discharge valve okay and it's being held back by the king valve on the receiver. Neither of those valves are 100 % leak free. So it's not practical in most situations to see a perfect vacuum on a system that you have pumped down so you're, not gon na see five hundred microns necessarily okay. You've got to keep that in mind.

You got ta do your best to evacuate the system, but you're, not necessarily gon na see it. If you leave your pump on there running and running and running to get to your you know: 200 micron level or whatever. I bet you anything by the time you come back to the next day. There's not gon na, be any refrigerant left in that system, because you're gon na suck it past the read on the compressor discharge valve and/or, the king valve on the receiver.

These are just my opinions guys, but these are the things that I see out in the field. Okay, so nobody's perfect, I'm not perfect. I will pull a vacuum occasionally through my manifold. It's not the perfect thing, because the micron gauge in your manifold is not super.

Accurate might highly suggest that you put you know a separate micron gauge still on the system. If you're gon na use your manifold that kind of stuff - okay, you guys got to use your skills to figure that stuff out and do what you got to do to make sure it's right. The other thing that I would say is that I just had a brain, fart and lost my train of thought. So that's that's my take on a vacuum on a system.

You know that's got refrigerant in it and or doesn't oh. The other thing I was going to say is: let's say that you're using a direct connection from your from your you know, vacuum pump to your system right and you're, not using gages. Well at some point. You're, probably gon na have to put gauges on the system or you're gon na have to use smart probes or something, but whatever you put on there to go ahead and add refrigerant to the system you're going to need to evacuate that too.

So if you're going to use gauges, then you take off your vacuum. Hoses right and the valve core removal tools are valved off. You need to vacuum down your gauges before you open those valve core removal tools, so that way, you're not introducing all the air and contaminants that are in your gauges into the system. Okay, so I will do a video on this guys where I talk about vacua ssin techniques and how I do that'll come soon.

So, let's try to Frank Bradley no Scrolls do not have reads Scrolls will that they have the scroll mechanism inside okay. So, yes, you are correct and pointing that out. But, yes, the scroll does not have a read so, okay guys how about after it's pumped down valving off your suction line? That's not a bad idea. It really isn't you're still going to evacuate on the rest of the system, but that's absolutely not a bad idea, valving off your suction line.

If you can, but you know, valving off your suction line, I'm trying to think no, not a horrible idea, not a horrible idea at all. So alright guys. If I missed questions, while I was going off on a rant there, okay Ralph Holly Lee, you said as a business owner: okay, real quick before I answer that one I'm going to answer Zacks question Chris: have you used PvE or scene equipment with it? Yes, I have Zack I've seen it on dan Foss compressors, Danfoss replacement compressors for like carrier package units they'll have PvE oil in them. I have seen that recently very recently, so, okay, so I'm gon na answer, Ralph's question right now: okay, so all NorCal! I want to address what you said to, but I'm going to answer, Ralph's questions real, quick as a business owner.

What other qualities you need to see before giving your tech arrays before giving a tech array is what I want to see. Is we usually have goals that we had set for that particular tech? You know things that I want him to start improving on and I want to see improvement and I want to see effort put out by him. I want to see customers being happy about him. Coming in you know, I get there's nothing worse, and this is something that I got the other day I walked into a restaurant and the general manager and the kitchen manager was standing right there.

They were talking and they looked at me. They said, oh hey, you know and they shook my hand and said: hey Chris, how you doing you know what I'm so glad it's you that came here today, because I know it's gon na get fixed right, and that was like a gut punch to me because Why wouldn't one of my guys fix it right and that's what I try to relay to my managers and and it's a difficult thing, my guys are good guys. They know what they're doing right, but there's obviously some kind problem that the manager and/or kitchen manager sees in my tech right, so that kind of sucks. So as a business owner.

That's something that I think about it's like. If my, if I'm getting complaints like that, that sucks, you know, that's that's a hard thing, so you know we look at everything as a business owner. Obviously, okay. Well, I shouldn't say.

Obviously I want our service techs to make as much money as possible. Okay, but I still got a Steve: you have to stay profitable as a business too and callbacks and different things like that. Those are a big deal. Customer complaints.

Those are a big deal, so you know we have to. We have to be it's like a seamless thing. We all have to work together. It's like a symbiotic relationship right.

I think I heard that on a movie recently, but you know everything works together and it flows together and we have to have a good thing going and if everything is going good, then that's when service techs get raises. Ok, norcal Dave, you said the true blue is not all that on small units, you, like the 3/8 quarter-inch, better, hey. You know it Dave great point all right. I just got the true blue.

I used it once it was cool. It took me 45 minutes for a vacuum on a walk-in cooler system. I pulled down to 200 microns. It held all that good fancy stuff, but I could have gotten that same thing with with my Appy on 3/8 hoses.

So you know I mean to each their own and don't let anybody tell you that you're, not a great tech. If you don't have these fancy tools? Okay, you don't have to have all these fancy tools. When I was first coming up in the trade I couldn't afford to buy em $ 600, true blue professional kid I just bought that it was $ 600. Okay.

I can afford that now because I have a tool budget. You know, but you know I can't expect everybody, so I really think in all honesty that the true blue hoses are priced a little bit high okay for some K, F fittings, quick flange fittings; okay that have been around forever. What true blue is in all honesty in its great products, I'm not talking crap about it, but I'm just telling you guys. You don't have to have that to be a great tech, okay, but what what the true blue selling point is is the the like? The PVC hose that they use it's really flexible.

I mean the flange is in different than in the way that they connect the the flange fitting to the hose okay. But the KF fitting that's been around forever. That's an industrial vacuum. You know thing.

That's been around years and years and years: okay, there's nothing new about that. It's just the hose that they made okay, but I'm not talking crap on it. I obviously bought it because I thought it was cool all right. I like it over the a beyond hoses the nega flow hoses.

This is the true blue, we're talking about and the reason why I like it over the a beyond is because the flexibility, the flexibility, is a little bit better and the fact that, on the quick flange fittings, you can do a 90 degree fitting. That was really cool. That's a selling thing for a refrigeration guy, because sometimes we can't fit that giant a peon hose in places and that's another thing. There's times where I can't fit my vacuum hoses, like all those fancy stuff on a giant sitting on it on a little reaching cooler, so you got a user manifold okay! So don't let anybody tell you that you're a hack, because you use your manifold or something like that - it is what it is, do what you can do, the best you can to the best of your ability.

Do the job right think about the customers best interest that kind of stuff? Okay, always you guys see me preaching in my videos about being concerned about the customer? That's what makes the customer you know shake my hand when I walk in the door. In my opinion, that's why they like me, because I am concerned about their best interest. At the same time, I have to make money as a contractor, but I genuinely do care about my customers and I care about my reputation and what they think about us. Okay, all right, I'm going off on a rant on that.

There was a question that I needed to answer. Justin help me remember what it was. I told you to help me. Remember that I forgot what was the question Clint.

Thank you very much man, I'm gon na try to go back up here and remember what I said. I wanted to answer a sequence of operation for a walk-in freezer. Okay, I'm gon na go through this one. I don't want to spend a ton of time on it, but basic walk-in, freezer, basic basic, okay, electric defrost, essentially what you're gon na have - and this is a basic typical setup - is you're gon na have a condensing unit on the roof.

Okay and evaporator. Coil is typically going to be powered by the condensing unit, we're talking about a 208 three-phase condensing unit on the roof or even 208 single-phase on the roof. Okay, but you've got 200 Navy volts on the roof and what you have up. There is a defrost time clock: okay, typically, the defrost time clock is going to be the master.

It controls everything: okay, so the defrost time clock on a system that has like an 80 145 20, which is a Paragon clock and or a grassland eta v40, which is the grassland defrost clock. You're gon na have a number one terminal. You're gon na have an n-terminal and, as in Nancy, you're gon na have a number three terminal and you're gon na have a number four terminal and you're gon na have an X terminal. Okay number one terminal is power to the clock.

Okay, then there's usually a jumper between 1 and n 2 and then basically 2. Is your switch leg for your refrigeration? So when the defrost clock is not in defrost, it sends power to number 4 that sends power down to your evaporators. You've got some limit switches and there again that this is needs to be done in a video more, but I'm just kind of given a rough thing. Okay, so number 4 sends power down to the evaporator coil, to turn on the sill enoyed valve and to energize the evaporator fan motors after the fan delay limits which has gotten cold enough.

Once that happens, the system is going to satisfy or come down to temperature, and then it's gon na cycle on and off via the low pressure control, because the solenoid valve shuts okay, the solenoid valve, is typically controlled by a temperature controller. Then because it's a walk-in freezer and the evaporator temperatures below 32 degrees, we need to do periodic defrost. So this particular system is gon na have an electric defrost and what's going to happen, is whatever time you have set on the defrost clock when it goes into defrost. It's gon na stop sending power down to number 4, ok, which energizes the fans and the solenoid valve, and it's gon na send power down.

Number three number: three is gon na energize, your heating circuit; okay, whether it be hot gas, defrost or electric defrost. In this case, I'm talking about an electric defrost, so you've got an electric defrost being energized by number three. That also goes through a couple limit switches: okay, you're, typically gon na have a heater safety that won't let your heaters get above, like 70 degrees or the the you know where the sensors out won't. Let it get above 70 degrees, something like that, but you're also going to have a defrost termination, because most walk-in freezers these days are they have time and/or temperature terminations.

So what that means is, is that if you have the defrost clock set for a 45 minute defrost, if you didn't have temperature termination, it would stay in there for 45 minutes. Well, if the box temp was already high, you might bring the box temp really high by leaving it in a 45 minute defrost, so we usually have a limit switch in there. That basically looks for a certain coil temperature on a heat craft unit. I think it's 55 degrees surface temperature at a certain point in the coil and if it hits that 55 degree range, it basically completes a circuit and sends power up on the X terminal and D energizes, the defrost before the time period ends.

Okay. Hopefully I didn't just confuse you guys and I answered your guys's question there, but I have some videos where I one of them's titled walk-in freezer electric defrost explained. If you look at that video, it kind of shows you what I'm talking about in the sequence of operation: okay, okay, fluke, 196 great point: he says: does my OCD ever get me in trouble? Do you do you have rules like don't fix if not broken yeah?.