You are you guys hearing me at all. Is there still no sound? Let's try this again here transition over there with me guys, I don't know what's going on here today. All right. Can anybody hear me there all right cool you guys got sound? Okay, all right! Sorry guys is craziness going on with the stream.

I don't know what happened with the intro, but it all took a crap. So hopefully you guys can see me now. We live. Okay, sorry guys don't know what happened there, but hopefully everybody can realize that this I had to start a new stream for some reason.

So, okay people can hear me good right on alright, so got all kinds of topics I want to cover tonight. So hopefully I can get past the fact that this stream didn't take off like I wanted it to and we can get going. Sorry, I'm a little disheveled right now because of how that went down. So hopefully you guys are doing all okay, I'm gon na try to just move past this.

So I got a nice little list of things that I want to talk about, and then I want to get to questions in the chat for you guys, and hopefully I can answer them so Erik Kay. Thank you very much man. I really appreciate it any of you guys that want to post questions just and I will try to get to them. If you could, please put them in caps, lock we'll try to do our best to get to all you guys's questions, okay.

So what I'm gon na do here is his Zak. Thank you very much man. I really appreciate it. So I'm gon na pop up my chat again everything got messed up.

I don't know what happened here so all right, so we have yeah exactly Trump tweeted again took all the bandwidth. Now it was my mixer for some reason I don't know what it was like. My my mixer forgot, I'm that's a Lacroix dude, nothing, fancy it's a carbonated water, so so release the video. The first thing I want to cover is this: this video that I released yesterday, I got so many questions about it and guys I apologize about.

The audio seems like I'm, just plagued with audio problems right now I tried to do something by putting music into the video, obviously didn't work out, because I didn't get the audio levels right. It was a pain in the butt. That's why I like to keep my videos pretty plain and simple, where I don't have to go with anything crazy. So you know I'll try to take a little more time with the audio, and you know if I, if I do do audio again I'll, try to make it work a little bit better.

But the first thing I want to cover tonight is in my video yesterday. I so I had a walk-in freezer where we had all kinds of problems with it, and what I found was the twist timer had failed. Okay, I want to cover what that twist. Timer was because I can't tell you how many times I typed out a response to that answer must have been 10 maybe more times, and I finally stopped typing out the answer and just told everybody I'll talk about it in the stream tonight.

Okay, so I had a walk-in freezer yesterday or at least on the video yesterday, where we had a complaint that it wasn't working and when I arrived, the unit was working okay and what I found was that the twist timer on the outside of the door. So we have a pump down twist, timer, okay and what it is. Is it solved the problem and I installed that, but I'm not going to take credit for coming up with that idea. It was a.

I first saw it on a Hartford duracal walk in I'm sure other people came up with the idea too, but essentially on the outside of the door right next to the light, switch is a 15 minute twist timer and when you twist on it, it actually breaks The circuit for the the neutral wire for the coil, okay - and it basically makes the system pump down it, disconnects the liquid line, solenoid valve electrically and it because it's the the neutral or the common wire, I shouldn't say neutral. It's the common wire because it's the common wire it disconnects power to the evaporator fan motors too. So the system goes into an immediate pump down the evaporator fan motors turn off, and then the liquid line solenoid valve turns off in the system pumps down. The reason why we do this is because we have a lot of nuisance service calls at a lot of locations, because I deal with 99 % of my stuff as restaurants, where we get walk-in research that are iced up.

I don't know if you guys have noticed a trend, but majority of my videos. I have like ridiculous amount of videos on D I seen a walk-in freezer. Excuse me and a lot of times it's because people are leaving doors, open or different things like that. So we use that pump down twist timer, it's a special twist timer, okay, it's made by Intermatic and you can't get it from Home Depot or the supply houses.

You have to order it, at least at my supply houses. You have to special order it. I will tell you guys that it's an inner Matic and the part numbers FF. So that's Frank, Frank, three, one: five, Mary, okay and it is a 15 minute.

Double pole - double throw twist timer. So you can use it to turn something on for 15 minutes or you can use it to turn something off for 15 minutes. So, in our case, we use it to turn the the common leg off for 15 minutes and the cool thing about it is that the tricky thing about it is: is that 15 minute interval, because you can find 30 minute? You can find our two-hour interval ones, but nobody wants to shut off their walk-in freezer for 30. You know for two hours, basically, so by doing a 15 minute time, 15 minutes is not going to hurt anything, and so at my restaurants, what we typically do is we train the kitchen staff and we let the managers know because usually the managers are sick and Tired of paying for us to defrost walk-in freezers and they they basically are agreed to us, putting that twist, timer in and then so anytime, that the cooks are all trained anytime.

They opened that door boom, they turn the twist timer okay and in our situation the twist timer was failing. Okay, and it was just not keeping time anymore so, like I showed - or I think I mentioned in the video what I did was. I had a hunch that that was the problem, because the box was, I had just turned it. You know when I, when I arrived, the fans were off and I turned it in the fans came on, but what I did was I turned it.

The full 15 minute interval and then started my stopwatch while I was troubleshooting the rest of the unit and noticed that it was taking a lot longer than 15 minutes for it to turn the evaporator fan motors back on okay. So hopefully that clears what that twist. Timer is it has nothing to do it's, not a temperature controller. I got those questions.

It's not turning off. You know just turning off the fans, it's not doing that. It's a pump down twist timer, okay kind of like a pump down switch that sometimes you'll see on you know: convenience store, condensing units on the roof or stuff like that. Okay, so this one, I just literally ran a piece of seal tight conduit to the evaporator coil grab the neutral wire as it was our that common wire keep calling a neutral the common wire as it was going to the evaporator interrupted it ran it through.

That switch and then back okay, so that's all that it is so um. Another question about that video to that I got was how we how I changed that pressure control guys you got to remember something: okay, you can't always be perfect, alright, and so in that situation I pumped the system down to a low pressure about nine psi and Then hot, I call it a hot swap a hot swapped that pressure control, while the system was still under pressure. Okay, sometimes you got to do that. It was a Friday night or no, it wasn't a Friday night.

I actually returned, but sometimes you just do that because I didn't, I was being lazy and I didn't want to recover the whole charge or pump the system down and have to change the dryer. That was the whole point was not wanting to change the dryer. I was being lazy, it happens every once in a while. It is what it is okay, so, unfortunately, you can't really do that on a high pressure control, because high pressure controls, you know you can't pump the system down on the high side.

Basically, okay, unless the pressure control is on the liquid line, but on a low pressure control, that's something that I do and yes I realize that there's a negligible amount of air inside that capillary tube, it's gon na be okay. Alright, again, I'm not perfect guys. I'd like to show to you guys that you know: there's there's what you read in a book, there's what you learn in school and then there's sometimes what you got to kind of do to get things done. Sometimes, okay, so am i perfect for doing that? No way, okay, do I recommend you guys all do that that one's your decision to make whether or not you do a system like that? Okay, you guys can make those choices.

Don't just do it just because you saw it on one of my videos, so alright human rights revolution, I'm going to answer this question you says: is it possible to check for 24 volts at the thermostat with no common there's a couple different ways you can go About that, but the simple answer is: is not really unless the transformer on the roof is grounded and you have a good ground down at the thing. But yes, you know it's it's a difficult thing. When you're dealing with the older residential style, thermostats - okay, you know it can be kind of hard. I'm saying: are you checking proper 24 volts power? Okay, it's it's a little difficult to do.

Okay, so let's see what else - and maybe someone can chime in here and tell me something that I don't know - okay, I do not know everything so, okay, so here's a good one. Scott Lorenson is there an advantage in a pump down system over a temperature shutoff system, and this is something I've been thinking about lately, because I've read conflicting arguments for both ways: okay, so there's older systems where you have a temperature controller, and it literally just shuts Off the compressor, like line voltage, runs through the temperature controller or you just run it to the contactor for the compressor. Okay, I've seen that before it's older school systems, the advantage to using a pump down system and having like the temperature controller and/or the time clock pumping the system down when they're when they're on the off cycle is that you have less chance of refrigerant migration. Okay, you have less chance of slugging the compressor on startup.

You have less chance of oil migrating in the system. If you have a pump down system, okay, so preferably I prefer to have a pump down system when and if possible. Okay, I really don't see many systems out there that just shut off the conveyor, the compressor contactor anymore, but I do see it a lot on defrost, where we have like it to come like, for instance, the Tecumseh condensing units we're not on a walk-in cooler. We're typically not running cylinder all voltage up to the roof to the timeclock, to shut it off so oftentimes we will just shut off the compressor.

Is it perfect? No okay and in fact over at HVAC school Bryan had written an article recently about or actually I think, one of his guys wrote the article or maybe they made the video anyways, but they had mentioned about. You know the disadvantage to having a defrost time clock. Turning off the system at the compressor contactor and how that could cause problems so, but I have also read arguments and again I don't know you know, I'm not gon na say I don't know. Anyways.

I've read also arguments about the strain that a pump down does on a system every single cycle and that it actually strains the system. Now, whether or not there's any truth to that - and I don't know - I mean - I see a lot of systems pump down and I really haven't seen any problems from it. But I have read some articles where people talk about the strain on the compressor from having to pump down consistently all the time, and if you think about it, you know on a walk-in cooler that thing might pump down gosh. I could only imagine how many times in a day the system might pump down.

You know maybe a hundred times or something like that. I mean it depends on how you know how house size and what kind of load is on the box. But so you know, there's there's both ways, I'm not gon na say which way is right or which way is wrong. I typically use a pump down system, so all right, um, let's see what I'm missing here, do all make up.

Air units have heat. No, not necessarily Nathan. I have a lot of make up air units. In fact, we here in Southern California, we're typically a dry climate unless we're by the coast and a lot of times we have swamp coolers.

You know evaporative coolers as a makeup air unit. That's it it's just a swamp cooler, because we have such a dry heat that we can use an evaporative cooler as a make-up air unit, there's no heat on them. Now we do have a few make up air units that have heat, and I have seen make up air units that have dehumidification on them via. Basically, they have an evaporator in them and condensing units on the top, and it's there to temper the air and humidify it before it brings it back into the building.

But we don't have a huge need for that here. In Southern California, we have some some use cases where it could be needed like such out in the Coachella Valley, the Palm Springs area, because during the summer months they get monsoonal moisture. So we get relatively high humidity. What? What is high humidity to us out here on the west coast, you guys on the in the Midwest would laugh at or and down south, because if we hit fifty to sixty percent humidity, we're losing our minds here.

So, on a regular, we're like in the 20 percent humidity range, that's typical for us. So when we get our monsoonal moisture come through and our thunderstorms and whatnot, you know we'll hit 5060 percent humidity and we're losing our minds because it's still 120 degrees out there. In the Coachella Valley, and then they have sixty percent humidity, it just seems so unbearable for us, but you know it's it's interesting. What we don't even know what what humidity is out here, you so all right.

I want to get oh yeah. It is an old-school trick, primetime, okay, so I want to get to some of the topics that I have on my sheet right here and then I'll get to some more your guys's questions. Okay, so let's go into here, I'm still like all twisted up because of the the way that the stream started. That's still like agitating me it's hard for me to get over things.

Alright, so let me see oh another. This is a question I get on a regular guy's, a big-time regular. Is people asking me about my wedding ring. I wear wedding ring when I'm at work guys this and I get the comment.

I can't tell you how many times, oh my gosh, you shouldn't, wear a wedding ring, you're gon na get electrocuted or your fingers gon na get caught and it's gon na get ripped off. It's a rubber ring guys it's a silicone ring made by quello. It's the more expensive one, but there's no, not necessarily a need to have the quello one. But I am very concerned.

I stopped wearing my wedding ring many years ago and I felt naked without it, and then I found these silicone rings by Coelho and they're. Basically breakaways, so I mean, if you pulled, you know, if you got caught in something it would rip the ring off before it would rip your finger off. So I highly suggest you guys look into getting those if you do wear a wedding band when you're working because the the metal, you know ones, they're, nice and fancy, and then on top of that I've had my wedding band refinished, my it probably doesn't even fit. My fat hands anymore, but I've had my wedding band refinished so many times that it they can't even make it look like it looked when it was brand-new.

It's it's been sanded down so many times to get rid of the scratches and stuff. So that's another thing too: you can keep your wedding band a lot nicer if you have a fancy one personally, if I had to do it all over again, I don't know about you guys, I'm not a very materialistic person. I'd have been fine with this rubber ring from the beginning. I don't need no $ 600 $ 800 wedding ring, it just seems like, but but it to each their own.

That's just knowing what I know now. I don't need that big ol fancy thing, because that fancy ring that I bought is sitting in a drawer and it doesn't even fit my hand anymore. So yeah exactly guys. I see you guys commenting about the humidity so yeah we we do not know what humidity is here.

So all right, I'm gon na get to a couple more things. For some reason, the chat is on a very there's, there's a pretty good delay right. So, for instance, superior I'm seeing your comment right now, which is interesting because you typed in a minute ago, but I see there's a pretty good delay on the chat today, so um, okay. So let's see what else we got here, yeah! Alright, let's go into here! Proper gloves for refrigerant handling, this was an interesting one that someone had brought up and they asked me you know hey, what's what they see different people in different videos using rubber gloves using you know, whatever gloves, are using no gloves, I'm gon na be honest with You guys, I don't wear gloves very often every once in a while I put on rubber gloves and I've recently within the last like three to four years started wearing rubber gloves a lot just because I realized that my hands stay a lot cleaner whenever a rubber Gloves but they tend to get really, you know pruney and stuff.

You know it's you sweat and them a lot, but I definitely don't follow all the proper PPE rules. You know I don't wear protective equipment like I should, and I strongly urge you guys to wear whatever protective equipment you're required to wear and/or. Whatever makes you feel comfortable about working in the hazardous stuff that we do okay, but do I wear big old rubber? I mean big ol, you know leather gloves when I'm putting on refrigerant gauges. No, and the problem is, is that I find with all those gloves.

If you have no dexterity, you can't get your hands down and twist on stuff. You know DM locksmith. Yes, I wear the Black Mamba gloves. I get them from true tech tools.

Actually they have a really good deal and you can use the shoptalk offer code and you can get eight percent off of the Black Mamba gloves and they're. You know I think they come out to be like $ 11 a box or something like that, so great great price, on the black mambas. I will get to your question here in just a minute: Johnny boy, don't just keep posting it, but you're, not gon na you're, not gon na irritate me, okay. So so, as far as the gloves, you know I don't wear big ol rubber, gloves or anything like that for putting on gauges the biggest thing, and so I've got an apprentice working with me right now and the biggest thing I tell him is look.

I need you to try your hardest to make sure that you don't have refrigerant leaks everywhere, but you also got ta know when to step back and just let it go okay. So what I'm saying is sometimes you know you go to take something off. It's bad on 410, a like the other day. I was going to take my smart probes off before 10a and my smart probe was having a hard time because of the angle it was in.

I couldn't untie stit fast enough and there was refrigerant blowing out. Ironically, the system was overcharged and I promise you, I wasn't venting refrigerant purposely, but it just so happened that by the time I got that thing shut, it wasn't overcharged anymore. So but you know sometimes you just got to know, and I had thought about it when I was screwing that thing that that access valve or on the smart probe, you know trying to screw it back on or screw it unscrew. It is what I was trying to do and I was trying to take it off and, as I was doing that it I couldn't you know it was.

It was starting to scare me. I was about ready to just let it go because I didn't want to burn my hand really bad, so you have to know when to just stop so that you don't hurt yourself. Okay, so you know, what's the proper gloves to wear it's whatever you're comfortable with or whatever your company requires you to where's all that I'm going to tell you, okay, you know so to each their own on that one, okay, yeah exactly prime time all right! The girlfriend is about to give birth and you're over here Tito right on bud. I okay.

So let's see what else I got going on here. Oh this is a good one. So a question I had was: how do you read suction superheat, okay, so obviously, in order to get suction, superheat you've got a clamp, your your temperature clamp on the suction line right, but on walk-in freezers we run into an interesting problem: okay, because walk-in freezers aren't Properly operating walk-in freezer, it's not uncommon to see ice on the suction line. So how do you get a proper superheat reading if your suction line is covered in ice? That's a difficult one! Unfortunately, you're going to need to either find the best place to grab it, but you're you know.

Inevitably, the insulation should be keeping that ice back okay, but if it's not you're, just going to need to either defrost a section where you can get your clamp on there or what I will typically do if you can is go, find a piece that actually has Insulation on it, because more than likely, there's not going to be ice underneath the insulation. So you can just cut back a small piece of the insulation or just cut one slid in it to where you can get a temperature clamp on it. But if you can't find a place, you're, just gon na have to defrost the suction line. Until you can get your clamp on there, that's just something you got to do.

I would strongly urge you guys, if you haven't already, even if you're, not using the field piece temperature clamps. I would strongly urge you guys to make sure that you're sanding down your suction lines when you're putting temperature clamps on them. That goes for air conditioning or for anything, no matter what temperature clamp you're using. I strongly suggest that you guys consider sanding those things down and getting a nice good bond with the copper.

I feel a lot more comfortable when I sand those lines down to get a good good bond on there. Okay, while I'm talking about that, the next thing that I wanted to talk on my list and I'll get to some questions here in just a sec. Is temperature clamps? Okay, if you're using temperature clamps, you got to make sure that you're and I've harped about this in the past a lot but you've got to make sure you're calibrating your temperature clamps, whatever you're using okay k-type thermal couples are very, very good and they're very inexpensive For the most part, but k-type thermocouple ZAR, the clamps that typically, you know, come with your your field, peace meter and it's got a little yellow, k-type thermocouple or, if you're, using a fluke 52, which is what I use for temperature measurements a lot of times with Reaching coolers, it's got a k-type thermocouple sensor on it and you got to make sure you're checking the calibration of those sensors before you measure anything. So you got to use some ice water ice.

Water should be 32 degrees, technically you're supposed to use crushed ice agitate. It stick the clamp down in there. It should read 32 degrees, okay and then take your measurements. Okay, alright! So I'm going to get a get a couple of these questions answered in here, so there was one that was.

Someone was asking me okay, so mr. Johnny boy, you said what are the alarms for in the walking coolers mr. Johnny boy. What alarms are you talking about because there's there's a bunch.

That's that's a really open-ended question. Mr. Johnny boy, is it something you saw in my video, so I'm just going to cover different types of alarms and then maybe if I see something chime in in the chat that you're asking me, then I'll know a little bit more okay. But on a walk-in cooler, we've got a couple different type of alarms: okay, a lot of times, one of the ones that scares me.

The most is walking coolers and sometimes walk-in freezers will tend to have a panic alarm in them, depending on especially if you're working in chain. Restaurants, that's something that we see a lot so we'll have a panic alarm inside that walk-in cooler and what it does is. If the restaurant was it ever get robbed, it makes the walk-in cooler a safe room. So typically, what they'll do is they'll have a deadbolt on the inside of the walk-in cooler.

So that way you can lock the door shut, and then you can hit a panic alarm. It's a little silent alarm basically, and it calls the police it doesn't set off a building alarm. You know, audible, screaming chirping. It just basically sends a silent alarm to the police.

That's one type of alarm that you'll see in a walk-in cooler or a walk-in freezer. Then we can have like door alarms. We can have alarms that monitor the temperatures inside the walk-in, coolers or freezers. You know those are very common ones.

Sometimes they might go to an auto dialer or be connected to the internet, send emails, they might just alert management. Hey the temperature is getting kind of high. Sometimes I've installed door alarms be aware. We have a problem with customers.

Shutting doors and we didn't install one of those twist timers, so we'll just put an audible door alarm that screams at them. If the door is left open for a predetermined amount of time. So there's a dick soul controller that I've used before I've used it in some of my videos where I install and it's a temperature it's a digital, thermostat, basically or digital temperature gauge. I don't know why.

I can't think a digital thermometer, sorry and then also it has an alarm function that if the door magnet basically senses that the door is open for you know 15 minutes, then it sets off a screaming alarm until someone goes in there and shuts the door. So hopefully that answers okay. So I see mr. Johnny boy, he said no like when the temperature is above normal yeah.

So I mean we just have different types of alarms, kind of like what I just described so that same door. Alarm that I talked about. We can also set it up to monitor temperatures inside the box too. There's all kinds of different functions: okay and you can set it to.

Basically, you know if the temperature inside the box climbs above a certain set point. Whatever you tell it to for X number of minutes, then we can set it to close a contact and send an alarm to whoever you want to. When I worked in hospital refrigeration - which I don't do anymore, but when I was doing some work for them, we had alarms temperature alarms. That would call their alarm company essentially call ADT and say: hey ADT would get a notice that we have a high temperature on this lab cooler lab freezer, and then they would call and dispatch the right people.

So a lot of times when you're working in the hospitals, you know the nurses and whatnot. They typically aren't really concerned with alarms on on equipment and stuff like that, because it's usually not going off to them. It's usually being sent to a building, automation, company or someone, that's monitoring it and then they'll call the engineering department or whatnot. So all right, okay, so Ralph Holly Lee you said: can I explain more on how a dirty condenser frees up the evaporator coil and what kind of frost pattern it does? I think your your you're referring to a dirty evaporator coil and how that could potentially freeze up an evaporator coil.

So you know basically it's all down to airflow. Okay, you have to have a certain amount of airflow, your compressor for the most part on on normal systems, most systems out there, your compressors, going to continue to pump okay, it's going to continue to pull the suction gas back and push the discharge gas out. Okay and it's it's basically made to make sure that we have proper air flow going through that evaporator, so we can absorb heat well, if we don't have that airflow we're still going to be trying to absorb heat. So what we're gon na do is it's gon na start, bringing the the saturation temperature lower and lower and lower, because it doesn't have a heat load and then you'll tend to get a freeze up? Okay, for the most part, if you have low airflow or if you have a dirty evaporator call for the most part, you're gon na see a solid freeze up.

Okay, not always, but it just really depends on certain situations. If one half of the evaporators dirty in one half snot, then you might get an odd freeze pattern. Okay, the freeze patterns that I would be concerned most with which you really need to start really worrying about, is, if you only see half of your evaporator coil frozen up, that goes with walking, coolers freezers, air conditioners or even a portion of the evaporator frozen up. Okay, that typically, is probably going to be some kind of a metering device problem or low charge problem, something like that.

Your whole evaporators not getting used essentially okay, but that could be. It could happen that way too, with with a dirty or clogged up. Evaporator dirty filters can also cause it. Okay, so all right, let's see, okay, so I'm gon na go hit my list right here.

I had a question about pressure limiting TX vs. I did Dan T I'll get to that here in just a second I did cover on my last stream. I talked about pressure limiting expansion valves because I had a walk-in freezer where we had a pressure limiting TX v on it. Now someone had asked me about you know: what do you do if you can't change that pressure limiting TX v? So in my situation, the the pressure wouldn't come high enough for the low pressure control to turn the system on because we had it set at.

Like 30 psi well, the pressure limiting TX v wasn't letting the pressure come above that 30 psi and our pressure control basically was set to high. So in that situation, a pressure limiting TX V is not bad. Okay, it's just you got ta, understand the limitations to a pressure limiting TX v and when I say pressure limiting TX v, it's really just the power head on the expansion valve. It has a pressure limiting element that doesn't allow on a spoilin one on a 404 system.

It wasn't allowing the suction pressure to come above the 30 to 35 psi range, and we had the pressure control. The low pressure control set about 32, I think, is what it was set for so and what I found - and I that's why I made in the video - was that the pressure limiting - I should say, power head on the TX v - was - was acting as kind of Like a crank case pressure regulator - and it was reading, you know keeping the low pressure down. We do this to stop from overloading compressors. Basically when we have a high load.

Okay. Now the question was what happens because I had mentioned that I was going to get rid of that and put in a normal non pressure limiting power head on that TX me, but it was actually sterling Archer from Paris that had asked me. You know what do you, what happens if you can't get rid of that t, -- xv? Okay! Well, then, you just set your pressure control lower, and you also have to know that on on pull downs, it's going to be it's typically going to take a little bit longer for the box to come down to temperature, because that suction pressure can't get up high Enough, you know it's just going to take a little bit longer than if it didn't have that pressure limiting TXV. Now he had also asked me about short cycling on girl compressors.

So what happens on a scroll compressor is they're not meant to be pumped into a vacuum. I mean no compressors really meant to be pumped into a vacuum, but we did use tests like that on reciprocating compressors in the past, especially the K body Copeland compressors. There used to be a test if we were testing the the suction valve or the suction read inside the compressor. We would front-seat the suction valve watch how low it polled then wait to see if it held to see if the reed was leaking by.

It's not really a super valuable test to use on on you know, pot, compressors or reciprocating compressors. A lot of the manufacturers tell you not to do that test anymore, because they don't make them capable of pumping down that low, essentially, okay, so on a scroll compressor, though, because of the inner workings of the compressor, they're not meant to be pumped into a vacuum. Okay and but we run that problem because on refrigeration systems a lot of times, the low pressure controls are set really low and then every once in a while, you might have a low pressure control that fails and then you might pull into a vacuum a little Bit: okay, so what will typically happen on the scroll compressors? Is they have an internal safety like a kind of a pressure relief built into the compressor that basically will just kind of for a short second equalize out the pressures? Okay, but it doesn't necessarily equal it. It just basically gets it out of a vacuum, essentially is what happens and so what you'll see on a lot of equipment, especially we're really seeing it a lot right now on heat craft equipment because they're walking condensers, they have encapsulated pressure controls and if any of You guys are doing refrigeration.

You know that the encapsulated pressure controls - those are the little peanut pressure controls that you can adjust and you just screw them on the Schrader beam and never accurate. So if it says the cut out is five psi you're gon na be lucky if it cuts out at seven or if it cuts out at two okay. So what happens on a lot of the? I don't want to pick on heat craft right now, because it also happens with other people too, but that's the one that I see it, the most on their their equipment, that they're installing or that they're sending out it'll pump down it'll pull too low and then That pressure relief inside the compressor will bleed the refrigerant, by and kind of equalized out the pressures a little bit and then the system will turn back on and then it's a vicious cycle on off on on off on off on off. So the solution to that is is just to set your low pressure controls higher.

Typically on a scroll compressor. You don't want it pumping down past 10 psi! That's my rule of thumb, so you know, set your low pressure controls at 10 psi, but there's also some limitations in that too, because it depends on what you're keeping in that system. If it's a walk-in freezer and ultra low, you know it depends on what the evaporator temperature is so there's other things. You can do time, delays and stuff like that.

So all right, let's go into here. What are the advantages and disadvantages to using a TXV over an ERV? Do you mean an e^x via electronic expansion valve Scott, a I'm, assuming you mean a thermostatic expansion valve versus an electronic expansion valve? Do me a favor and give me a confirmation, Scott. So that way, thanks Dallas yeah, so the floating seal. That is what that's called and it won't see, and then it lets the pressure's bypass a little bit inside.

There see everybody else knows more than me. So, let's see what else we got Scott a give me a confirmation there. But if that's what you wanted me to answer there: okay, yeah, okay. So, in my opinion, okay again I'm stubborn and I don't like change, but I do appreciate some of the cool things we can do with electronic expansion valves.

I'm gon na be honest with you guys. I don't use a lot of them, yet I've got probably about 15, maybe 20 systems out there that have electronic expansion valves. I appreciate the concept of them and I appreciate what they can do. I've read some interesting articles about them.

The cool thing about electronic expansion valves is basically we don't have to overshoot anything anymore. Okay, because you know thermostatic expansion, valves they've come a long way from in the past right, but in an S in a nutshell, we're kind of overshooting them. Sometimes you know we're kind of setting the superheat yeah. You know it's gon na it's gon na modulate, it's gon na range here and there, okay and and basically we're relying on a spring to to adjust the superheat and made sure that the valve is maintaining the proper superheat okay.

But with an electronic expansion valve, the cool thing is: there's a lot of times we set the superheat numbers even lower, so, for instance, you know on a a walk-in cooler with an electronic expansion valve. You know we might set the superheat down all the way down to 8 degrees, maybe 6 degrees. Okay, we're gon na try to get the most use out of that evaporator coil, and we don't have to fear of the valves all the sudden over feeding right, because an electronic expansion valve is essentially a step or wolfs. That depends on what type of valve you're using, but if we're talking about a spoilin valve for the most part, they're a stepper motor, so it's just tap tap, tap, tap, tap, tap, stepping down and always letting through that right amount of refrigerant and they adjust on The fly really quick, so the advantage of using an electronic expansion valve is basically more accuracy, you're able to get more efficiency out of a system.

Potentially, that has an electronic expansion valve because you can get more use out of the evaporator coil without the worry of too low a superheat and sending basically liquid back to that compressor. So we can get more use out of our evaporator coils, but the disadvantage to electronic expansion valves is that thermostatic expansion valves are trying or they basically work right, there's no electronic. So you know that big. The weakness of the electronic stuff is the circuit boards and the sensors.

You know, what's one of the biggest things that fail when it comes to digital temperature controllers is not usually the relays and different things, and if it's not user error for the most part, it's the sensors that go bad. The sensors - and you know that's in my opinion, what the weakness is on the electronic stuff is we're definitely getting a lot better than we used to be, but we can get much more efficiency. In my opinion - and you know, we can be more accurate with the digital stuff and with the electronic expansion valves. So all right.

Okay, let's see what I got in here: do exv still hunt like TX vs do not as much Rob eg you really don't get as much hunting. You know so long as the systems charge properly electronic expansion valves in in. In my experience they tend to be you get less hunting basically, but I mean, if you're getting a lot of hunting like a TXV, then you know you might be got something going on there. You might have your suction line or your you're sensing bulb installed in the wrong spot.

I mean, but you know, newer, thermostatic expansion valves. You know they don't hunt as much. You know, but it all depends on the the situation you're in and what kind of a load you're dealing with where it's it's strapped, but for the most part, electronic expansion valves have a lot more accuracy, a lot less hunting than a thermostatic. So alright really appreciate it all right cool.

So, let's see what we go in. Am I going to area 51? No, sir, all right thanks, Justin all right. If we try to keep these comments guys in here kind of related to HVAC. So if you get something disconnected, it's probably because it really wasn't related to HVAC, because again we got so much going on in here we're trying not to get too distracted.

So you know in trying to keep it on HVAC stuff. So why do Hoshizaki? This is a really good questions: human human rights revolution. Why do Hoshizaki have clear and black hoses customer asked me why I didn't change the black hose okay. So this is an interesting question.

I was in a hostess Aki meeting one time or a training class, and someone had asked the Hoshizaki trainer. Why do you make your hose is clear and the Hoshizaki trainer said, because if we didn't make them clear, you would never change them and you could take that as kind of a double edged sword, all right so first off if they may so if they were All black, you would never change them, because you wouldn't see the nastiness that was inside the hose see that nastiness still exists inside that hose. Now. Why do they still use the black hose on some things? I don't know why they still use the black hose on some things.

I imagine it's because it's hard to mold the clear hose in those right angles that you see the black hoses for the most part. You know they use the silicone clear hose on the transport line that comes from the water pump up to the distribution rails on the Hoshizaki z --. But then it goes black to the distribution rails. I would think that they might have technology where they can do it all in, but I did like the the Hoshizaki guys answers, because if they made them all black, then we would never change them, and you know you see that as a way that Hoshi wants To sell parts, but I see it as the way of we wouldn't see the nastiness that's inside the hoses, so you got to look at it like that.

All right see what we got here. Why do capacitors fail? Mr. Johnny boy? There's a lot of things that lead to capacitors. Failing there, okay, I would say that one of the biggest problems is probably well.

You know that's an interesting question, so why do capacitors fail? I would say a lot probably have to do with electricity problems coming in, but I would say that some of it probably has to do with lack of proper preventative maintenance, and then some of it might have to do with do you know just a cheap capacitor. You know they. We have a lot of restrictions on the chemicals that we used to use in capacitors. They used to use, I believe they're called PCBs and they they were very, very durable and they hardly ever failed.

Okay, but the capacitors we have these days. They fail quite regularly I'd highly suggest you look into. I have no affiliation with these guys, but I really do appreciate the capacitors that imrat is making am red, is the company that makes the turbo capacitors turbo lytic capacitors to start in the run caps, but I like theirs. They seem to last quite a while, and I believe that they might be american-made, so pretty cool if you guys can use in the am red, capacitors, alright, okay, so Trevor deep Bernardi, you said with our 22 being phased out.

Is it going to force people to replace units in the future? You know, that's that's an interesting question. I think that, without getting too political, I think that that's the goal of a lot of people that are putting in these restrictions about banning refrigerants is you know they want you to change out your equipment. Now, there's an argument to be made about how some of these different refrigerants are hazardous to our health and us breathing them in when they're leaking out. There's some arguments to be made about environmental problems that they caused, whether or not they actually hurt the ozone layer or whatever.

I don't want to get political about all that stuff, but inevitably, yes, it's gon na make people replace their equipment. Ironically, we still have a our 22 equipment here in Southern California, and so does the rest of the country right, but now they're already talking about phasing out r410a, our 410 a was was the replacement for r22. Well, it's also interesting too, as is when they decided to use r410a as the replacement gas for our 22. They already knew they were phasing it out.

So now we're already talking about phasing out the replacement gas when we still have some of the r22 systems out there. I still have a lot of our 22 systems out there. That's a whole nother thing to worry about. So alright, let's see what else we got here.

Everything today is junk. That is true. There's a lot of equipment out there, that's definitely not made like it used to be made. So alright, let's see what else we got.

What other questions we got in here? How can you figure out if you have low oil issue on a scroll with no sight glass, Tyler Davis, that is a to repeat what DM locksmith, okay, so DM locksmith had asked that that is a really difficult question. Okay, I really feel that all scroll compressors should have a sight glass on them and you know there's things that Wow total is that HVAC North yeah thanks, but I really appreciate it man that was really cool awesome thanks for the super chat dude, so you know I think that all scroll compressor should have sight glasses. I think that it's very important for a sight glass to be on there, and you know some things that you can it's very difficult to know for sure whether or not the system has oil. Okay, you can kind of monitor the vital signs of the compressor.

You can check the amp drawers. You can listen to the sounds that it's making and this is actually segue into another thing I want to talk about, but it's really hard to tell for sure. You know I'd be kind of curious to think and wonder if you could see oil levels with a thermal imaging camera that'd be an interesting one. I don't know if you can, because I think I've proved that you can't see the liquid levels very well on a liquid line.

Receiver. I've tried that with a thermal imaging camera with the refrigerant in it, so I'd be kind of curious to know. If you can see a difference in a scroll compressor, that's low on oil and that's has proper oil using a thermal imaging camera. Maybe you can see that the components in it are getting hotter than usual.

I imagine that one of the tests that you could do to test whether or not a compress operating properly is just the basic safety tests on a compressor but temp the discharge line because a lot of times, I believe, don't quote me on this, but isn't Copeland's Number 225: for some reason, I thought it was 225. This Copeland's number. I could be wrong on that, but Copeland has a SPECT number there DJ sub err. Thank you very much.

Man really appreciate the super chat. That's really awesome of you! So yeah! Okay, let's see what else we got going on here: oh hey, guys, everybody's been asking in its it's, not all official yet, but yes, I will teto 209. I will definitely get to that. That's on my list right here, so I will address the fact that everybody keeps asking me about the shirts and the shirts are coming guys.

I'm gon na show you guys the back of the shirt. This is the official shirt that I'm gon na be released, and I actually just placed a huge order for like 140 of them, so hopefully they sell, because I just spent an arm and a leg on ordering these shirts - and I got hats coming too so they'll - Be here soon, but I'll show you guys the back of the shirt they're gon na come in different colors they're gon na be black, this great color that I'm wearing and then there's gon na be a white one too. For now, and maybe later we can work on some different designs, but um yeah those I will have them eventually. I'm doing I got a lot of fires going right now, but I got someone trying to work on a website for me and different things.

So I got to find a place to be able to sell the shirts, so they will become and I did place an order for them and, like I said, hats will be coming. I ordered some hats and I'm gon na show you guys something here hold on. I ordered some hats, and this is because I'm crazy right and and I'm constantly trying to make sure that what I put out there would be something that I would want to buy so, and this is this is my problem. So this is my hat.

It's really simple, it just says: HVAC are that's all okay, because I wanted these to be able to be worn by other people. But can you guys see all there's a point right here? This is the stuff that drives me nuts, and this is why it's taking me so long to find this there's a point at which the hat comes up right here and it's the style, a hat, and if you guys can see it it's I don't know it's Hard to see, there's like it looks like I'm a unicorn when I'm wearing the hat, so I'm not using that hat. I'm still gon na use the design with the HVAC are on it, but I just ordered a different style. So it's taking me so long same thing with the shirts.

It took me a long time to get to this shirt and it just took me a long time to get to it and yeah. I I finally got to it, and you know I finally have a design that I like, but I I bought so many other different designs, basically samples and different things. Ironically, when you're ordering a crapload of shirt samples still cost you money, yeah, that's the whole thing. So all right, so those will be coming soon working on it.

Okay, um, let's see what else? Okay, oh okay, so duh! I wanted to talk about. I'm gon na get to the regions with the cold rails I'll get to that in just a minute. There was one other thing that I wanted to segue into I'm looking through my thing right now: cold red systems - okay, I'm just looking through my sheet - did it it did it top. You know now I'll just get to the cold roast, okay, so reaching coolers and restaurants a lot of times.

We have a cold rail on the top, okay and or sometimes they just have air blowing up, and typically we have a drawer section or a door section where we can keep food underneath and then they have pans up in the top. So they can. You know it's a prep table, they can make hamburgers whatever they have all the condiments right there. In the top a lot of times.

We have temperature issues and we tend to struggle on the top sections. Okay, because you got to remember something at the top - is trying to mmm. You know in the bottom of the region. They've got food in there.

That's trying to overcome the infiltrating air through the 3-inch thick box, with insulation in it, but in the top there's nothing protecting the the contents in that pan from the heat being absorbed into the food. So we tend to have to over cool those pans. So we will have like a cold rail in the top. Okay, sometimes there's all different styles company called Chi rack used to use a pan chiller they had rails, and then they had a fan motor and a circulated air across the bottom.

They had some problems with that they've since went to like a glycol solution where they circulate glycol through there, delfield has cold rails, there static cold rails, where there's no fans at all, and it's just a frosty rail and the pans have to make contact a bunch Of different ways, one of the important things to understand is that almost every cold rail out there on a reaching cooler is meant to operate in a kitchen, that's less than 80 degrees. How many kitchens do you guys know out there that are less than 80 degrees? In the cooks line, not very many okay, but, ironically, all these different manufacturers are selling these restaurants boxes and they're. Saying oh yeah it'll work great and then you get out there and it won't work. Okay, so number one.

The heat in the kitchen affects everything about that box: okay, especially on the cold rail, the cold rails of the nut. The first thing to fail, usually even when there's a problem with the bottom, you tend to notice it in the cold rail, because you've got all that infiltrating air on the top of the box. Okay, so I don't know when the audio is distorted, Adam I'm having horrible audio issues today. So I don't know I shouldn't yeah.

My level should be good, huh, interesting yeah, I don't know, don't know so. Okay, so I see you said Justin it's a little bit loud. That's I don't know what it is man. Let me go down hold on see my audio thanks for telling me guys.

I really appreciate it. So let me let me adjust the levels down there and hold on that's very interesting. I'm gon na try to seems like this whole stream has been messed up. Huh, that's very interesting seems like I just need to chill out no all right cool, so anyways.

Hopefully, that's a little bit better, but with the cold rails you know yes, okay, the number one thing is is that cold rails need to be full all the way? Okay, so you can't have open spaces in the cold rail. You cannot have open spaces. There needs to be rails in between the pans. The pans need to be sitting on a surface.

The pans need to be in good shape. That's like number number one. Okay, you can't have those spaces in there. It's just I'm cursed Nathan, Peterson, so, okay, so I'm getting distracted here, but so with the cold rails.

The other thing so, let's just say, I'm working on a delfield, cold, rail, okay, so a delfield, cold rail. One of the issues that I get all the time is is that someone goes to the bottom section, because a lot of times the bottom sections are separate. It really depends it's hard for me to generalize every single cold rail out there, but a lot of times the top is gon na. Be one thing in the bottom is gon na be another thing: okay, so what happens nobody's being rude superior? I don't know huh interesting, okay, it's not so getting distracted right now with everything.

No yeah, no more me eating the mic exactly so yeah, no he's not being rude superior he's trying to help me out man.