Hello, how are you guys doing? Hopefully you guys are all well. Hopefully you guys had a good 4th of July. We had a pretty cool one out here. It's been interesting, though, because we had some earthquakes.

The last couple days, we haven't really had a big earthquake here in Southern California. In a while, it's been quite a few years since we've had a large one and I guess we were lucky. I mean I don't want to take away from the trauma and whatever that people went through in the area of Ridgecrest and trona, because that's where the earthquake was centered, it's about a hundred and some change miles away from my house. So we felt the shaking of my house, but it wasn't even enough to have something fall off a shelf or anything like that.

It was real mellow for us, so we actually had two rather large ones. I think we had like a 6.4 and then like a six-point, eight or seven point one or something like that. But again they were centered out in the middle of the Mojave Desert. So luckily again not taking away from the people that dealt with it there.

But luckily it wasn't in an urban City where we had problems, so it's definitely uh. Definitely a interesting fourth of July. I guess I could say I didn't even feel the earthquake. To be honest with you, my wife and I were on a bike ride and someone called me, my kids.

We had left my kids at home because they didn't want to go for the bike ride with us. Cuz we weren't like too far, or it was too long of a ride and they didn't want to do it. But on the someone called me and said: hey, are you guys? Okay and I'm like? What are you talking about, and they explained to me and I go - I better call my kids and call my kids and they were fine, so it was kind of cool cuz. It was that for those of you that don't deal with earthquakes, very much you know growing up we had to.

It was always something that was stressed to us and we had to learn what to do. If there was an earthquake, you know how to shut off the gas different things like that in case something was damaged and my kids, you know I've never really been through. Even this one for us wasn't that big, so we've never really been through that big of an earthquake. So it was kind of a great time for me to sit down with my kids and explain like the emergency plan and what to do and what not to do.

And you know how not to worry about the animals. If you have to leave the house - and you know just that kind of stuff so anyways - I digress - we're going off tangent they're about earthquakes. So but hopefully you guys had a great Independence Day for you in the States for those of you in the States. So I have some interesting stuff I want to talk about, and then I want to definitely get to your guys's questions in the chat I mentioned already in the chat and the very beginning of this, for the guys that were in there really early, you know throw Your questions and capslock so myself and our moderator Justin, can make sure that I get to the questions and don't hesitate to repost your question.

If I don't answer it, you're not gon na offend me by reposting it you know. Sometimes they just go so fast that I can't get to them and then sometimes I got a sheet right here. If things I want to talk about so sometimes I might be going off on a tangent and not see your question flyby. So you're not gon na hurt my feelings if you post it again so alright, I want to start by addressing my videos my two videos that I posted this last week.

So I posted one on a Linux packaged unit where one of the compressors was disconnected, and I got a couple questions on there and I kind of want to address them to you know. Remember that you know people in the comments they posted like hey. I could hear that compressor was running backwards from the beginning and yes, I realized that that compressor was running backwards too, but I kind of played I let it go so that way we can show the whole process of figuring it out. You know putting my gauges on it, seeing that we had no compression reversing the phases and then realizing that we had compression.

I wanted to show that in the video okay. So it's not that I'm missing that stuff, but I'm not saying that I don't sometimes I do you know it is what it is never figured out why that compressor was unhooked for those of you that don't know what I'm talking about. I uploaded a video where the second stage compressor, I believe - maybe it was the first stage. I can't remember that yeah.

I think it was the first stage the first stage compressor was disconnected, but there was no notes or anything as to why it was disconnected. So I went through the process of making sure that it wasn't grounded and you know checking all that good stuff. Now someone asked me a really good question and it kind of segues into a topic that I want to cover and it's how come. I didn't use a mega ohm meter on that compressor to see if we had any insulation failure on the wiring or anything like that and I'll be honest with you.

I don't own a mega ohm meter, nothing against them, okay, but I do want to say that you need to be very careful - and I think I covered this on my last stream, but I'm gon na recover it again that you do want to be very careful When you're using a mega, ohm meter, Copelan actually has a tech bulletin, it's tech bullets and I have it written right here on my notes, tech bulletin, ae4, 12.94 and I'll put a link into the chat right now. I'll put a link in the video show notes. I don't know why I'm gon na put it in the chat, but whatever you guys can click on it or you guys can copy it or whatever. This is Copeland's tech bulletin right here, but I will put a link in the show notes of this video and in the in the tech.

Bullets and Copland acknowledges that a mega o meter is great for testing insulation value of wiring and different things, but they do express in this tech document. Basically, our tech bulletin that you need to be careful about using a mega ohm meter and that they recommend that mega ohm meters are used over a length of time, and you should look at trending data before you. Just diagnose a bad compressor, because a mega ohm reader has you know a bad reading. Basically, and the reason why is is because there could be moisture in the system.

If there's moisture in the system, it can lead to a false reading. Basically, so you got to be very, very careful about that. Okay, all you need to do is just Google search, Copland mega ohm, meter and you'll find the tech bullets and it'll come right up on the Google search results, but you can also go to Copeland. Has a mobile app that you guys can download for your phone? It's called tech bulletins.

If you just google search or not, Google search go into your app store, whether it be Apple or Android, and just type Copeland and there's gon na be all kinds of great apps and they will. You can find all kinds of cool stuff. So you can find just one app that specifically has tech bulletins and you could just look up tech bulletins all the time. So if you want to know if there's like a known problem, just look it up and it explains it so, William powers.

You said what is the approach method and that's actually something that I want to cover on here. So the approach method is Linux and some chiller manufacturers? I don't do any chiller work, but I have heard that some chiller manufacturers use the approach method for truck for a charging metric. But linux has used this as their charging metric for many years on the commercial packaged units, and I don't do any of the residential stuff, but I'm pretty sure they use it for the residential stuff to you. Guys in the chat can confirm whether or not you've seen that, but the approach method essentially is the difference between the liquid line temperature.

So that's the surface temperature of the liquid line, leaving the condenser and the ambient air going into the condenser. So it's kind of an ass backwards, suckling measurement right, except for you're, not doing the liquid saturation conversion temperature. Okay, so you just take the liquid line temperature leaving the condenser and you take the air temperature going into the condenser. And it's the difference between the two and that is called the approach method.

Okay and Lennox has used that for many years as they're charging metrics. So you want to be very careful if you're charging a Linux unit, you don't necessarily want to charge by subcooling on a TXV system, because you could overcharge it. So you want to be cautious about about that, and also another thing too, especially when you're dealing with the Linux packaged units is that have the slab, condenser coils, the V shaped coils. Usually those are circuits, so you might actually have a different air temperature ambient air temperature on the backside of the condenser coil.

Then you do on the front side of the condenser coil. So you know, if I'm thinking of a 15-ton package unit, you know the the front of the condenser coil is the first and the third stage condenser on the front, the third on the 15 tons that have three compressors. The third stage shares half of the back slab half of the front slab and then the first stage is the top half of the front slab. So the front slab.

So the first and the third stage might be getting a hundred and two degree and B and air going into the condenser when the backside might be getting a hundred or ninety eight degrees, depending on it being in the shade or something. So you want to be cautious about when you're getting your air temperatures using the approach method, you want to make sure you're getting the proper ambient air temperature. So all right, so this is actually a perfect segue to. Let me pull up this tech bulletin right here and actually I'm gon na segue to one of the other copeland apps right now, I'm gon na show you guys real, quick and then I'll get to some more topics.

So I'm going to change my display right now. So it's gon na pop up hang on just a second yeah okay, so I'm gon na segue over to a screen. I'm gon na share my screen with you guys and I'm gon na show you the Copeland mobile app. I had a lot of people asking about the Copeland mobile app and guys.

I see your questions coming through I'll get to them here in a few minutes. Okay, I'm gon na cover this topic first, so the Copeland mobile app is something that I use to find out the resistance value of a compressor before I actually used it just today, because we had a Hoshizaki ice machine that had bad starting components. The potential relay had shorted out and before I drove to go, get the starting components. I wanted to ohm out the compressor to see if it had the right resistance values.

So I opened up the Copeland mobile app and I inputted the model number of the equipment of the compressor and I got my resistance value, so I'm gon na pull up the Copeland mobile app for you guys right now, I'm gon na transition over all right. So this is a for whatever reason, Copeland lets. You use the mobile app on a computer too. So what I'm gon na do is I'm going to input the model number, so I'm just gon na input a CR 18 and you notice that it auto populates a lot of model number.

So you need to make sure you find the right one. So we're just gon na pick this one CR 18 k-6 Tom, Frank, David, and what you get to do is immediately it pops up and it asks you which compressor do you have. Is it for 63 phase or 423 phase? One of them is 50 Hertz. One of them, sixty Hertz, so here in the US we'd, be dealing with the 50 Hertz model.

So I'm gon na click on that and you notice that it gives you some information again guys for those of you just tuning in and I'm just kind of touring. The Copeland mobile app okay, it's a great resource and I highly suggest you guys download it. You can download it on iOS and or Android just go into the App Store and look up. Copeland and they'll be all kinds of apps, but this is Copeland mobile.

So the really cool thing about this app and guys. I can't see the chat right now, so just bear with me the really cool thing about this app is. It has tons of information in here. So what we've got right now is okay, so we can look up mechanical information about the compressor.

It tells you information about the mounting bolts, the suction line size, all that good stuff. But what I really like is the electrical okay. You go down to the electrical and look at the winding resistance down at the bottom and it tells you that the winding resistance on this compressor plus or minus seven percent should be seven point four, three seven. So this is a three phase, so it's lined aligned.

So if it was a single-phase, it would give you the start and the run winding. Some other cool things that, if you guys don't already know about this app, is that if this unit had capacitors, you can look up the capacitors and it gives you the part numbers and the the data about the capacitors. You could do the same thing with a relay potential or thermal whatever, but this is a three phase compressor, so you can also look up service parts, and I really like this part because let's say this unit has a discharge line thermostat. You can click right here and it'll pop up if it has some special gasket.

If it's a semi-hermetic it'll pop up, if it has a molded plug this one, has a power, cable, molded, plug there's the part number sight glasses. I mean you could do all kinds of great information, crankcase heaters there. It is right there. You know, there's all kinds of other great information fittings, so I highly suggest if you guys, haven't already download the Copeland mobile app it's a great great resource.

You can also find, let's see right here, performance. They have a performance, calculator and they'll. Tell you you can actually input your numbers, you can click on dynamic performance and you can input your numbers and it'll calculate how your compressor is operating, and you know information about that. So there's it's a great great app.

I highly suggest you guys consider downloading this. I'm gon na go ahead and switch from the screen share right now and let's go ahead and go back to my video capture device and there we go so I'm back. I'm gon na try to pull up the chat here and I'll try to get to some of your guys's questions now. So let's go over here.

Bear with me one sec. I just need to find where my chat disappeared on my screens here there. It is right there all right, okay guys, so let me try to get to some of these questions. Okay, yeah, the Copeland mobile app is great, so I saw some questions come through if okay, so Israel Miller, you asked if a compressor is sweating.

Is that a good indicator, it's overcharged, and no, that is not a good indicator that it's overcharged. All that that means is is that the suction line temperature is below the dew point. That's all that that means it does not mean anything okay, so the the proper way, depending on what you're working on, if you're working on a fixed orifice devices to use target superheat to find out if you're overcharged and then, if you're, working on an expansion valve System you're going to use subcooling to find out if it's overcharged, I guess I should say if that's an air-conditioning system, if it was a refrigeration system, then you'd have to look at some other things. You clear the sight glass make sure that you're not past the sight, glass and but you know you can also check the evaporator superheat, there's a lot of different things that you would have to check on a system to make sure.

But as far as sweating, back or even frosting back is not bad so long as you have proper airflow and you have the proper superheat, it doesn't necessarily mean anything bad if your your suction line is sweating back to your compressor. So, okay, guys for those of you that have had a hoshizaki, has a high and low port. What's the port in the middle? That's not labeled human rights revolution! That's a good question! So most I'm assuming that's a remote ice machine, meaning that it has a condenser on the roof, most ice machines that are remote. They usually have a third port or they tell you to use a three-point recovery on that system because of check, valves and cylinders.

You have to recover the refrigerant, so typically on the Hoshizaki x', you have a liquid port, you have a high side port and you have a suction port. You and you can use that third port essentially for your three-point recovery, if you needed to do so. So if you turned off the machine on a hoshizaki and you went to go recover that gas there's a potential that because of some check valves, you could still have refrigerant trapped in the system, even though your recovery machine goes in or your suction line goes into. A negative, and even your high side, to a negative, it's possible.

You could have refrigerant traps somewhere, depending on where you put your high site port on, so they always give you that third port. So that way, you can access the system if it doesn't have. The third port, then, on the Hoshizaki machines, usually on the line set on the back of the machine. They have ports, usually on the line, sets and there's a discharge and a liquid line on the back of the machine going up to the condenser.

And if you didn't have that third port, you can always access the discharge line on that on the back of the machine, if you need it to so. Hopefully that answers your question and the same thing kind of goes from man to talk to man to talk on their remote quiet, cube machines. They give you three ports and it's pretty much the same thing. It's just so you can access that.

Third part of the system, so, okay, let's see what else we got yeah guys if you guys got questions type them in caps lock, because it really really helps us because there's so much. Sometimes we don't know if there's conversations going on or what in here. So all right, let's see what else we got going on um setting the record straight yeah and - and I guess that's a good point - Oh Zach. Thank you so very much man.

I really appreciate it Adam you put in here that the entire compressor sweating as a whole that should not be - and that's true, I mean your whole compressor - shouldn't be sweating per se, but if it's just the suction line coming back to it, it's not a big Deal it's hard for me to answer those questions guys, sometimes because I don't know your circumstances. Okay, when someone calls me and says or messages me and says, hey my walk-in freezer has ice going up to the compressor. Is that bad? It's like I don't know, is there good air flow? Is the evaporator coil iced up and is the the evaporator superheat correct and if they are all correct and there's good air flow and there's no ice in the evaporator coil, then ice going up to the compressor? Is not a bad thing, it just means that the temperatures below the dew point and the refrigerant line temperature is below freezing so but yeah. You know you do have to know how to interpret certain things.

So if you walk up to a for instance, I a certain thing that happens on a hoshizaki ice machine is they've had instances where expansion belts can stick due to improper installation practices and whatnot and you'll get really really low superheat and it will flood back to The compressor so the whole side of the compressor will be ice and the whole. You know even the discharge gas coming out the front of the compressor. The top of the compress is not even hot. It's like lukewarm, so yeah, that's low super heat.

So you know you got to take each situation differently and it's kind of hard for us to say yes or no. It's completely bad. You know because we don't know all the circumstances behind it. So alright have I ever used the saddle type piercing valves.

You've always been scared to braze on a line with refrigerant in it, the pressure at 15 yeah yeah. I've used the saddle type valves before they are kind of sketchy, and they are, you know you got ta, have some balls to be able to put those in Jeremy dude. Thank you very much. Man really appreciate it.

Man, but yeah. Those saddle saddle valves. I've done them once or twice, and I just turned the system off make sure you're in a safe place. You have everything, sanded and cleaned and you're gon na saw it.

It really quick and you want to make sure that you don't get the line so hot. That it explodes those saddle type valves. Our last case scenario. I highly suggest you don't use them unless you absolutely have to, but I can't remember the circumstances as to why you used one but it.

I know it was a walk-in cooler and we we had to put it on the suction line, and I remember thinking this is so sketchy. You definitely don't want to do that with any of the hydrocarbon refrigerants, although we pinched off the lines in well than when we're done so yeah, that's a whole nother thing. Okay, so William powers explain how to properly charge units with expansion, valves and or fixed orifice devices, so first things: first, the unit has to be working properly. So I'm assuming we're talking about an air conditioning system.

The unit has to be working properly. We have to have good airflow. We have to have my personal preference when I'm charging air conditioning units, especially packaged units, as all stages, are running, not just one stage. I want all stages running if you have two stages and you're gon na test.

Your air flow you're gon na get the airflow correct, make sure the coils are clean. Once all that's done, then, if we're working on a fixed orifice like a carrier unit with a curator metering devices, we're going to use target superheat or on some of the carrier units if they haven't faded off, there's actually a charging chart. But essentially it's just target. Superheat and if we have an expansion valve system, we're going to charge via sub cooling, so sub cooling, being your liquid line, temperature difference between the saturated temperature of the refrigerant inside the condenser and the difference between those two would be your sub cooling.

So you basically are going to use a met, a metric as far as like what sub you should have there's some rules of thumb, but I highly suggest you lean on the manufacturer to find out what their recommended sub cooling is before you just go in there And assume that you're gon na have ten degrees. Okay, now on a package unit, if you can't find manufacturers information, it's pretty safe to assume your sub cooling should be around 10 degrees, okay, but it also depends on where you're measuring it. Okay, I typically like to measure sub cooling as close to the outlet of the condenser as possible to get a true liquid line temp. So that's just my personal preference, seven one, six appliance guy! Thank you! So very much men.

What's my thoughts on pre-charged line? Sets you have a big customer here that that's all they buy. I really don't care for pre-charge line sets you know, but I mean we got to deal with it all the time, but I don't like them. Okay, because you, you really can't. I mean I end up cutting them and shortening them because I don't like when people buy a 50-foot pre-charge line set, and I only need 25 feet.

I don't like leaving coiled line, sets up on the roof. Okay, so I usually just take them on and I'll honesty, the amount of gas and those pre-charge line sets is so small, so I usually just cut them or recover the gas out of the line set because they usually have ports right, recover the gas. And then you know cut them, you know, follow all proper refrigeration practices, because I don't like excess lines on top. I don't like people, you know when I leave an installation job, I'm always thinking.

Okay. I want to install this so that way when someone else comes to service that after me, they don't think on the hack. So when someone goes up on the roof, they don't understand that the customer bought a really long line set, and you know you had to coil it up on top of there. They just see it as the person that installed it sucked so but yeah, I'm not a fan of the pre-charge line sets so, but you just got to deal with them.

Sometimes is it possible to braise a leak on a capillary tube, or will it just clog? It that's a really tough one, Israel Miller, I have done it. What you can do this is, I I'm going to tell you best practices on a capillary tube system. If you have a capillary tube, that rubbed out is to replace the entire cap tube. Okay, that's the best practices, but hey.

Sometimes you got to do what you got to do. So what I will take is a piece of quarter inch pipe about two inches long put the cap tube about three quarters of an inch. Maybe you know, or an inch in on each side of the pipe that the quarter inch tube pinch off the lines and braze it shut because trying to braze on a cap, tube you're, probably gon na plug it up now. Does that create a flashpoint sure? Okay, you can have a problem there and that creates that adds more compare more space inside the refrigerant lines, so that could create a problem, but that would get you through a pinch temporarily if you had to replace a broken capillary tube.

I've done it before. So. Why the sight glass, often bubbles at startup, sterling Archer, so on startup, your expansion valve is flooding right now, really really bad. So it's very, you have to be very, very careful on startups, we're talking about, let's just say, walk-in cooler, okay, so typically what you want to do.

Is you never want to clear a sight glass when the box temp is really really high? You want to let the system kind of stabilize out and slowly add gas as you're you're waiting for the system to come down to temp. Okay, you want to be cautious about just blasting, nothing full liquid, refrigerant and clearing the glass right in the very beginning, because that can become a problem so oftentimes. Your expansion valve is just going so crazy right now, and the system essentially is beyond the operating and envelope of how it was designed. So you will every once in a while, see some bubbles on startup.

You know so you just got to kind of let it calm down and then clear, the glasses get closer to operating temperature and then also pay attention to your winter charge. If the system happens to have any kind of low ambient controls, such as a head pressure, control valve head master, then you're gon na add the flood. They call it a flooded charge after you've seen the box. You have to calculate that flooded charge, and then you have to add that after the fact, so all right, what brand do I like for walk-ins? I don't know what brand I like for walkins.

I'm a fan of I kind of like hodgepodge, my walkins together as far as the walk-in shell. I really don't have a preference as long as it's not one of those weird plastic ones or something like that. But as far as the equipment goes, the evaporators heat craft makes a decent evaporator and then I really really like the Tecumseh pre-built condensing units. Those are super nice and they're heavy-duty and they just they seem like they're gon na last forever.

If, if I have to get a condensing unit with a scroll, then I would probably go with the heat craft condensing unit, I'm I'm just not very trustworthy of the Tecumseh scrolls yet because they're still fairly new back on the market. For those of you that don't know, Tecumseh had a major major problem with their Scrolls about 20 years ago. They came out with a scroll compressor and it just turned into a disaster, and everybody got rid of the Tecumseh's and went back to Copeland. So Tecumseh came back out with a scroll, but I just I really don't know how much I trust him yet.

So that's just my I'm not knocking them. I just don't know so. Any preference on a 3-phase monitor 3-phase protection, david johnson. No, the only three phase protection i've ever used is made by ICM.

So i really don't have an honest answer for that. One. I've never used anything but the ICM products for my three phase protection stuff so noir Lake walk-ins noir Lake is a you know. They sell to the the customer direct most of the time, just like most manufacturers out there now so noir lake comes typically with pre-charge line sets.

They usually have a Copeland condensing unit with the digital Nixle controller. You know on there nothing bad about them. You know they're just they're, just another builder-grade, it's kind of like a builder-grade walkin, you know so that they work. You know I just don't like the pre-charge line set thing.

So when do you need to use nylon and there's nothing wrong with that? You can use nylon basically on any joints that you might have friction: okay wearing when you're trying to tighten them so any flares, it's really good to use nylon to lubricate the surface at which the flares gon na spin. So, basically, you know the old-school method was just to use oil on your flares right. Well, nylon essentially, is oil, it's just a little bit thicker, but it's just oil, so you don't even need to use oil anymore. You just put a little bit of nylon on the top of the flare nut, basically where it spins on the copper line.

And then me personally, I like to put a little bit of nylon on the threads. Also, just a little bit not a lot and tighten them down. You can use nylon on gaskets I'd, be very careful about using nylon on capillary tube systems because they can plug up capillary tubes. I mean I shouldn't say it does plug up cap tubes, but I've always been afraid of night log plugging up a cap tube.

So I'm sure people will tell me that I shouldn't say that, but that's just my preference, I don't use it on something where it's close to the cap tube okay, but I will use it like on a pressure, control or something so I'll use. My log on row to lock valves on the the white nylon rings I'll put my log on that. So I put an eye log on everything, so it's kind of like red hot you put that on everything right all right. Let's see exactly just just use it on everything, so exactly yep all right.

Let me see what other questions. Okay, guys, throw some more questions down in the bottom. If I didn't answer it, okay, Kyle can a start. Capacitor, that's not wired to the potential relay trip.

A circuit breaker, that's a good question: why wouldn't it be wired to the potential relay I'm confused on that one, but because the start cap doesn't stay in the system. So how would it not be wired to the potential relay there's a problem there? If it's not s, show II is mo 99, a good retrofit a, but I'm not gon na comment on that, because I've never used mo 99. I've heard some rumors about it, but I don't want to bash the refrigerant. I personally I'm gon na tell you right now: dude, I'm not a fan of alternative refrigerants I like to use.

I still use our 22 to this day, but again my buddy Ralph. I don't know if Ralph is in here today, he's always really good in this chat. He works for Honeywell. Refrigerants he's always a really good person to ask questions about refrigerant retrofit, so I'm gon na post, Ralph's email right here.

If you guys, anybody has refrigerant questions about which alternative refrigerants to use I'd highly suggest you email Ralph. So let's see why? Okay, let me I want to get back to this question about the start. Cap um. Did you post a comment, a reply in here Kyle? I want to make sure I get to that question, but I'm kind of confused as to why your start cap wouldn't be wired into your potential relay because it told we should be now run.

Cap might not be wired into the potential relay, but your start cap definitely should be okay. So what device hooks up to the injection port of a copeland scroll for a walk-in freezer? So typically that is called a liquid injection valve okay or a DTC David Tom Charlie. I wish I guess someone had commented that I need to learn my military alphabet. I know there's a name for that, but I just call it the military alphabet.

I don't know it so I always randomly comment with weird letters and stuff like that. So what device hooks up to the injection port, it's a liquid injection valve and what it does is it takes your liquid refrigerant and it basically it let's just look at it as an expansion valve okay, so it basically meters the refrigerant to cool off the head Of the compressor, that's all it does so on it to cut on a heat craft unit they're using it's a liquid injection valve, but it's ran. It basically doesn't get a temperature off of the the head of the compressor. So a DTC valve has a sensing bulb.

Like an expansion valve that goes to the head of the compressor and whenever the head gets so hot, the DTC valve opens up okay, but there's also a liquid injection valve that basically has a cylinder valve on some of the newer heat craft units and they, whenever The compressor is running, they turn this solenoid valve on and it just basically injects liquid refrigerant to the valve, and then the valve meter does meters it off into the top of the head of the compressor just to cool it off, and it's because on a walk-in Freezer you get that low temperatures, you have problems with the compression ratio and the compressor will tend to overheat. So we need that cooling coming up to the compressor, especially with these new alternative refrigerants that are being used. Like our 448, a I use our 448 ei as a replacement for our 404, a that's the new refrigerant we're using in Southern California, or at least in my stuff of my Watkins, I'm using 448 a and 448 a has a high discharge temperature. So you have to, I mean it's really important that you have a liquid injection, especially on the low temp stuff.

So all right, oh there's a good one, so I saw one up here. Someone did someone ask me about my long-sleeve shirt. I swear. I saw some didn't hear about that.

No, I guess not. I swear. I thought I saw something about my long-sleeve shirts. I don't know what, if someone there's so many questions coming through guys, make sure you just post them again if I miss them.

Okay, I'm gon na get to a couple more of the topics that I want to cover guys and then I'll get back to you, yeah whiskey-tango-foxtrot. What the I was. I was doing a bunch of research about that and wondering like what what are those things mean and different things and yeah whiskey-tango-foxtrot means what the okay, so I'm going to cover some topics in here guys throw questions and capslock again I'll try to get to them. Alright, let me see what I have okay, so I want to talk about the video, the other video that I uploaded, where I had a walk-in freezer and at that video.

Actually, that service call was a couple weeks ago and I've just sitting on the video footage, and I just decided to edit it down, but so I had a service call on a walk-in freezer and it was actually it wasn't a service call. It was a follow-up, so we had a service call. The previous night. I had another tech out there when he went out there like 11 o'clock at night.

The walk-in freezer was completely out of gas, okay out of refrigerant completely. It was flat and he found that there was the low pressure control had blown apart and it blew all the refrigerant out. Okay, so he went ahead and replaced the low pressure or the the dual pressure control. I should say he replaced the dual pressure: control pulled a quick vacuum on the system, and this is another question that I had which just kind of ties, everything in together howdy, and so he pulled a vacuum on the system.

But he noticed that he wasn't getting a good vacuum. It wasn't holding itself. Basically, he couldn't get down to 500 microns, but he got the system I'm assuming he pulled it down to like a thousand microns are close to it and then basically just charged it up. Okay, because we needed to know where the other leaks were, it was small whatever it was, he ended up finding out that it was leaking on the accumulator.

So where I'm going with this is you know sometimes on these systems when they're flat? Like that, you know we don't, especially in the middle of the night, we're gon na, get them up and running and they might have other leaks in them. So you're just gon na pull the best vacuum that you can and we're gon na go back out and you know we'll clean up the system after so sometimes you got to get systems running all right, so anyways he got the system running, but I went back Out the next morning just to follow up because he was there super late and I just wanted to make sure everything was okay and right. When I walked up. The system was not down to temperature, the food was frozen, but the system was not down to temp.

Okay and what I found was, I went up onto the roof for my service gate. I thought I was scared because I thought maybe I was gon na be completely flat again, but it wasn't it had refrigerant. It was sitting right at 30 psi on the suction line and it wouldn't rise any higher. So what I actually found was that the system had a pressure limiting expansion valves power head.

So the valve is not pressure. Limiting it's a normal expansion valve. It's probably a one and a half ton, I'm guessing you know 3/8 half-inch, whatever expansion valve, but the power head on the top was a low temp 404 a power head, but at the very end of the the the number stamped on the power head, it said Zebra Paul as in P as in Paul and that p means pressure limiting okay. So what that means is that that valve is now gon na act as a crankcase pressure regulator or a low pressure regulating valve, so it serves as an expansion valve, but it also won't let the pressure in the system get above the suction pressure above 30 to 35 psi.

So what had happened was we had just set the pressure control just a hair too high and the next morning the unit went into a defrost, so it ran when he left and it brought the box temp down, but it ran until it went into its first Defrost and then it wouldn't turn back on okay, so the things that make the system turn back on is we have a thermostat, obviously that opens a solenoid valve and it allows the refrigerant from the condenser, which is usually a higher pressure right to drive through the System and then it goes all the way back up to the low pressure control and then once the pressure rises above the cut in pressure turns the system back on. Well, our system was sitting right at 35 psi. So temporarily, what I did was I adjusted the low pressure control down lower, which I'm not a fan of setting those low pressure controls to low, because on scroll compressors, like I mentioned in the video, they tend to equalize the pressures out in the system. If the suction side gets too low, especially once they get older, they have like a little port like a bleed report, or something like that on the top of the compressor that equalizes the suction and the discharge out just enough to where and you'll hear them too, Because when they pump off, you hear sound inside the compressor and it'll you'll see the suction pressure rise back up and then they'll short cycle on off on off on off.

So we always got ta. We want to set them as high as possible, but in this situation we had that pressure limiting power head on the expansion belt, so that created a problem. So it's important, you know when we're doing these troubleshooting, we got to pay attention to that stuff. All right - and it's really easy to think: oh man, this is bad, or this is bad or jump in there and start solenoid valves about all this different stuff, but hey all it was was I went and looked at the valve.

I had a hunch, and so I went down and looked at the valve and sure enough right on the power head. It said zp, so that told me it was a pressure limiting valve and that right at the 30 to 35 range is where limits the pressure. Okay, the next question that I had was: what's the need of a crankcase pressure regulator well on a walk-in freezer, especially okay, if we're, if you have a hot pulldown, so that means people bring hot products into the box. Okay and there's a heavy load on the compressor when it turns back on a couple things we do in a walk-in freezer to eliminate heavy loads is number one.

We have a fan. Delay limit switch so meaning that the evaporator fan motors won't turn on until the evaporator coil gets below a certain temperature. Okay. We do this for a couple reasons, but one of them is to prevent a heavy load on the condition and the compressor.

Basically, a lot of suction gas going back because the expansion valve it's just flooding refrigerant back to it. If we have basically a heavy load or a lot of refrigerant, going back to the compressor at once, we can tend to overload the compressor and it can go off on thermal overload depending on. If it's a really old compressor, it could just run high amps. So what we can do in a system that we need that on is we can install a crank case pressure regulating valve and essentially it's just kind of like a hold back.

It basically won't let the suction pressure get above whatever you set it for and on a crankcase pressure. It could involve you essentially you, you adjust it with an allen wrench until you get it to your set point of where you want it, and then it just stays at that it'll. Never let the pressure get above that set point when you put on pressure regulating valves, whether it be a pressure limiting expansion valve or a crankcase pressure regulating valve itself, they can increase the pull down times of those walkins, though, so you want to be cautious about That now on newer equipment a lot of times, if you don't have hot pull downs, you really don't need pressure limiting or crankcase pressure regulators a lot of times. We put those on systems that are designed just to the edge of their operating envelope.

Basically, so we might put a compressor on there, that's just slightly too small, you know, and so we don't want to overload it or something like that. So that's situations where we would need that pressure. Limiting an expansion valve and/or, a crankcase pressure regulator, so hopefully that answers that one a little bit gon na get to some of these questions, see if I missed anything here, guys all right, how does that sound go again, pew all right? What is the viscosity of most oils used in refrigeration systems? Joshua? I honestly don't know the answer to that, but I don't know us if there's a standard viscosity for sure all right, the only let's go see what else we got here. All right throw some questions back down on the bottom, guys: okay, there.

How do you evacuate lines when installing a hoshizaki ice machine? How do you evacuate the lines? Well, the Hoshizaki ice machines. The lines are pre-charged, so you don't evacuate them. If you're gon na cut the lines, then you got to put your vacuum pump on there. The lines themselves will have a quarter-inch port, usually or something like that, and you can evacuate them once you braise them together, but as far as a normal Hoshi, if you don't have to cut the lines, you don't evacuate the lines, because the whole system is pre-charged.

The condensers pre-charge, the the lines are pre charged and the compressor is so. You just run the lines twist them on use some nylon and move on alright. So what is the viscous okay? So I already answer that one and the fans shut off when the door opens but turns right on when it's closed, that's right, yeah. So sometimes we use fan switches on our doors too, and some of the newer, like the key to therm evap efficiency controllers on walk-in freezers, a lot of times.

You can order door switches with those and they'll help to prevent, freeze ups, if you're having equipment where customers are opening and closing doors a lot or employees are, then it's a good thing to have like Fanta door switches on that equipment to help to prevent. Freeze. Ups and to reduce the load on the compressors for sure so do I have any recommendations on retrofitting. An old r12 unit, yeah put some 1:34 in and then but I mean all those different refrigerants.

I don't know what the legality of all those refrigerants is right. Now are we still allowed to use one 34? I don't know, I don't even know anymore on the new stuff, there's so many new rules. But if I had my choice, I would just put a new condensing unit, a new compressor and or change the oil in it and put 134a in it. It just depends on whether yeah I think you could do that with with yeah I'd, be careful about putting 134 in a really old compressor, just changing the oil.

You should probably change the whole condensing unit, so no any tips for sizing houses on it for installs. No, I those aren't. You can't use rules of thumb to size, air-conditioning equipment for houses. It really depends on the climate you're in you need to do a proper load calculation and you need to find out what the infiltration rate is of the heat from the outside.

There's there's a lot of factors that go into sizing residential equipment. So you don't want to just ballpark it, because you can you can go, I mean some people do and it gets them by, but you can get yourself into trouble if you're just sizing by the time that you know the the square footage of the house or Something like that, I can get you in big trouble, all right, don't the door switches present a risk of flooding, the compressor with liquid sterling. So if, like the key to therm systems, what they do is they pump down, they shut down the liquid line. It doesn't just shut off the fans, so it just depends so like if you're working on the little reaching coolers yeah the door switches they'll just shut off the fans for a few minutes, so the the theory is, is you're not gon na have the doors open.

I don't know about the supermarket stuff, I don't know if they actually. I doubt that they closed liquid lines, solenoid valves, but on walking equipment. If you're gon na wire in a door switch, you would usually wire it to the liquid line, still annoyed valve. So that way, when the door opens a shuts down the cylinder valve, so all right, let's see what else, how do you start to diagnose a reach-in cooler, so you're gon na start from square one? You got to understand the the how the unit operates.

Don't get in there if you don't understand the sequence of operation, so I'm assuming it's a reach-in cooler. Let's just say it's an older Chi rec reach in it. This really can go to anything, but it's a pump down system that has a receiver and some cylinder valves and a thermostat, I'm gon na check power to the unit. If the unit has power, then I'm gon na start at the thermostats see if the thermostats are calling.

If the thermostats are calling, I'm gon na check to see if the liquid line Silla no advance are open. If those are open, we're gon na put our service gauges on the unit and we're gon na check to see. If we have refrigerant pressure, then our refrigerant pressure should open or should close your low pressure control and - and this is just a basic pump down system, you know. Basically, when the low-pressure gets high enough, your low pressure control closes, your compressor turns on so, and I mean - and you know, you've got to have the right amount of refrigerant.

There's a lot of factors that go into that now. Each manufacturer is different. They have a different control strategy, some of them don't use solenoid valve some of them. Have you know just an expansion valve without even a receiver, so it really depends on the particular region that you're working on you can feel free to send me an email.

You know I'd be glad to help you a little bit more HVAC our videos at gmail.com. So all right, let's see what else where to look or how to read the BTU rating of the evap and condenser coil and Comp horsepower rating, especially on walkin. So that's kind of a loaded question there Ralph, but let's start with how do you find the BTU rating of the evaporator? So you look at the model number tag on a heat craft unit. Let's just say it's a I'm drawing a blank here on a model number for a heat craft, but the the model number is the BTU ratings, the first two digits of the model number of a heat craft, evaporator coil like a ade ADT, one, four, six or Something that's a fourteen thousand six hundred BTU evaporator coil and then the condensing unit, you're gon na need to google search copeland and find their website, and you can download the manuals on how to find out what their condensing units deliver as far as BTUs.

As far as compressors same thing, you can open up that copeland mobile app that i opened up earlier and it'll. Tell you what the BTU rating of that compressor is at what temperatures. Alright, i want to kind of questions and caps just like he said it will really helps. So how hard is it to transition from residential to commercial as a tech? It really depends on where you're going, but are you going from residential air conditioning to commercial air conditioning the the biggest thing like i did a podcast with zack, where he was asking me and that's on hvac shop talk and zack was asking me how how I Explained to transition from commercial air conditioning to commercial refrigeration and the the biggest thing when you're transitioning from anything is you have to make sure that you understand completely where you're coming from so, if you're coming from residential air conditioning, do you really understand the electrical side? Do you really understand how a capacitor start induction run motor works? Do you really understand the starting components for that compressor? Do you really understand the refrigeration cycle and how the pressures work? Okay, when you step to commercial, it's really not that bit different.

It's just bigger equipment, you're gon na start dealing with free phase equipment which, in my opinion, is a little bit easier to work with you're, not always gon na deal with three-phase. But a lot of this stuff, when you go to commercial, is gon na be three-phase and for the most part, unless you're dealing with condenser fan motors, the you know, capacitors you're, not really using that stuff and the the compressors just have three phases of power. Go into it, so you just need to understand the basics, and you know and then have an open mind when you transfer over. I would highly suggest that you get a job with a company.

That's gon na teach you how to transition, and that's not just gon na, throw you to the wolves. So there you go well. I said I knew there was a question that I saw about long sleeve. So why do you wear long sleeves when it's 95 because the humidity is so low here in Kentucky it was 95 with 80 % humidity.

My long sleeve was so hot yeah, so here in Southern California, I'm more concerned with the Sun on my skin, okay and the heat just from the Sun. Okay. So if I wear long sleeve shirts, it allows me to stay cooler because we have no humidity here. Alright, on you know, in the monsoon, Oh muy mala su no moisture in the summertime.

Usually between July and August, we get like thunderstorms and whatnot. You know unless it's raining, our humidity is 50 % and that's insane for us. So we don't have humidity here on a daily. I think that today the humidity is probably 20 %, maybe 15 %.

You know, so we don't have humidity. So the you know when we we wear long sleeves, you know we'll sweat and it'll evaporate, really quick. Okay, so long sleeves work really well for us just because it's so dry um, all right, okay! So next thing this is a real basic one guys, but I'm gon na go through some basics here, so I'm gon na transition over to a display capture again and I'm gon na show you guys, I'm gon na show you guys my hold on. Let me pull up chat back up, so I can see it cuz, there's a way that I could do that there we go so I'm gon na show you guys a really simple thing.

I I get so many questions about part numbers and links for tools that I used and whatnot, and I tell people all the time I always put links in my video show notes, maybe not in my old videos but in my new videos. I've made it a habit if I use a tool, there's a link in the video, so this is probably basic for a lot of you guys, but I'm gon na explain and show you guys right now. This is YouTube. Obviously, okay so lift up HVAC our videos and I'm gon na click on one of my videos right here.

If I click on this video, okay and it's obviously playing a video but scroll down a little bit right here, guys right below my video title. There's information about the video, if you click, show more there's all the links to everything. That's in my video all the tools. So in this particular video i used a DeWalt cordless vacuum, a samsung tablet.

I get so many questions guys about. Where do i get the link for that tool? They're there? Okay, so I try to put him in there for you guys.