Hello, how are you guys doing? Hopefully you guys are doing well, I don't know about you guys, but lately man, I've been in a funk where I feel like it's Groundhog Day. Just I don't know, I don't know if it's just the end of the summer like being tired and worn out or what, but I just get. This seems like the same thing. Every Monday seems like the Mondays come so fast and don't get me wrong.

I love doing the live streams, but you know Mondays could be a bear sometimes, but it's all good. I guess these are first world problems right that we are bummed, because we have to go back to work or something so it's we should be thankful for some things right, so right on cool yeah i genuinely enjoy working. I really like problem-solving. What I don't like is the business stuff.

That's the stuff that drives me nuts. You know the quotes and different things like that. It's all just part of business but like in general, I love problem-solving and fixing things you know, and even at the end of a job like where it's a really stressful one, you know I I genuinely enjoy I'm reading a question. Sorry I genuinely enjoy you know.

After I'm done being able to look back and reflect like hey, we fix this problem or something, but you know anyways, so I'm just going off on a tangent there. But hopefully you guys are all doing well and hopefully you guys are getting ready for this holiday weekend. We got coming up. We got a three-day Halloween holiday weekend coming up here in the US, and I guess I'd like prime time had said.

I didn't know you guys celebrated in Canada too, so cool. I don't know what other parts of the world celebrate. Is it Labor Day? I think it's Labor Day coming up yeah. I think I get them mixed up too.

That's another one of those things the holidays. I always get them mixed up Labor Day and Memorial Day. It's not that I don't reflect on. You know the things that we need to reflect on like on Memorial Day and stuff, but you know anyways just going off on a tangent again, so I need to stop and get back on topic.

So let me see so we got some questions in here. I definitely want to get to them guys, okay, so I'm out moderator today. So if you guys really really make sure you put your questions in caps, lock, I'm gon na try to get to them, and if you guys, those of you that are in here, let me know if anybody's causing trouble and I'll kick them out. Just just keep telling me and I'll try to get to them.

Okay, I appreciate it if you guys, can help me out with that one today and we'll see what we can do all right. I really appreciate those of you that are in here and paying it, and you know leaving me comments and stuff, it's really cool, so all right, so I want to start off by talking about a service call that is driving me nuts right now. So if you follow any of my social media, you guys might see. I had posted something on Facebook and Instagram about a masterbuilt refrigeration rack that I was having a problem with a compressor that keeps going off on thermal overload and I'm I'm gon na try to make a video on it.

I've got a bunch of footage, but I got to be able to see if I can edit it together and make something usable. But it's it's an interesting problem. I took over a restaurant chain, I shouldn't say: I took over restaurant chain. I took over a couple new locations last year of a restaurant chain that I already did work for, and I inherited a problematic, walk-in freezer and when I say problematic, the customer has told me that you know it's always been an issue every summer, they're constantly having Issues with it they've changed a bunch of parts.

This is all that's been told to me so my experience with this well, I took it over at last summer and I did have a few problems with it and actually to keep the unit running. I had to have a misting device on the condenser. I was having an issue with it and that's not a good sign, but I got myself through the summer last year and this year I kind of wanted to address it and honestly I kind of forgot about it until the summer hit this year and then you Know it's obviously a problem now, so I've currently got a misting device on it to keep the condensing temperatures in the receiver, and my logic is telling me that there's nothing wrong with the compressor and that the condenser and the receiver between the two of them are Not sized correctly, the unit does not go off on high head pressure. It only goes off on thermal overload.

Okay, I can tell that the previous person that had worked on this had done a bunch of work to try to resolve this problem. For instance, they put in a pressure limiting power head on the expansion valve to try to drop the suction pressure. They also disconnected the discharge line thermostat, which disconnects line voltage or control voltage to the compressor contact or if the discharge line ever gets too hot, and what else did they do? I think that's all that they did. Actually, I think the high pressure control might have been bypassed actually to ironically, I don't see ever see the unit going off on high head pressure, because the compressor will go off on thermal overload before we hit the high pressure cut out of 450 psi.

It does have an auto reset high pressure control, so I've got everything hooked back up to the way that it's supposed to be, but I have to keep a misting device on here, because what happens is my compressor goes off on thermal overload so where I'm at Basically - and this is the way that I have to approach this is obviously I'm looking at the big picture and I went ahead and did a few things. I noticed that in actuality, the power head was failing, so I went ahead and changed the power head on the expansion valve to a normal, low temp power head to a zp charge, because this is a 404 a system and I went ahead and obviously back in Um yeah vacuum the system. No, I didn't have to vacuum the system down yeah. I did i vacuumed the system down.

That's right now sitting here thinking in my head what I did but anyways and then what I did was I just sat down and did some some research on the equipment took the Box calculations, measured the height, the width and the depth of the box to make Sure that the evaporator coil was sized appropriately and it was then I went to the compressor and verified that it could handle the BTU requirements of the evaporator and it can but there's a caveat on Copeland's product information. And this is something that I need to talk to Copeland about before I make one more because once I open Pandora's box on this and let the the facilities Department know of this particular restaurant, it's gon na be a pretty big deal. So that's why I'm trying to get all my ducks in a row and mind you the whole time. While I'm doing this, the equipment is operating properly because I have a misting device on the condenser.

I'm not a fan of putting the misting device, but it's not saturating it. It's just it's! It's not a problem at this point, so so the customers operational everything's good, but what I need to do is either decide on whether or not I want to change the condenser, which I don't think I'm gon na change the condenser. If I have to go that route, I'm going to talk the customer and to letting me take this equipment out of the refrigeration rack and putting in a properly sized condensing unit. Next to the rack: okay, not a fan, and once I release the video you guys will see.

I'm not a fan of this particular refrigeration rack just because of the design, it's kind of silly. When you take the panels off to access the compressor, you bypass the condenser, because all the air it when you pull the panel off it sucks the air from an you know from where you're at rather than through the condenser. So it's kind of a silly design, but so - and I'm gon na get to your guys's question here in a minute. So what I'm finding is is researching the information on Copeland's product information.

This compressor is operating outside the operating envelope of where it can be operating. So I basically looked at art and it says you know this compressor can put out this BTU this many BTUs at in this operating envelope and the basis is off of condensing temp, I'm currently running about a hundred and forty degrees, condensing Templin. It's 110 degrees outside right because we have a thirty degree over ambient condensing temps, that's about where we're running and when we hit that anywhere from a hundred ambient temperature to a hundred and ten ambient temperatures when this compressor goes off on thermal overload. So the compressor has the right amount of oil in it.

Okay, it does have a dtc valve, which is similar to a liquid injection valve, and the dtc valve is working correctly. The dtc valve has a temperature sensor that goes in the head of the compressor. Whenever the discharge temperature basically gets to a certain temperature, then the dtc valve is like an expansion valve 8 meters liquid refrigerant into the compressor to try to cool down the compressor and keep it from overheating. So we know the dtc valves working properly.

So everything is pointing me in the direction of this compressor being under sized and not working correctly for this type of system. But i just want to get all my dots in a row because, like i said once i open Pandora's box, you know it's going to be a big deal, because they're gon na have to spend the money to properly fix this thing. Another interesting thing is is amongst my diagnosing - and I mentioned this - I might have mentioned this on social media, but amongst diagnosing everything I'm going through the rack, and I kinda already have it in my head - that I think we might have an undersized condenser. Then I find some paperwork in the rack that says this particular refrigeration.

Rack should have been sent to another restaurant location in Boulder Colorado. Ok, so then I'm like wait a minute, we're in Menifee California and that's Boulder Colorado, totally different, condensing temps. So I did confirm with the manufacturer, though I don't know where that paperwork came from, but they're telling me no. This rack is supposed to be at this restaurant, but they are telling me this rack was designed for a hundred degree ambient when our average temperature is 110 and our extreme high is 115 so but a 10 degree you know being 10 degrees above what they designed.

It for I mean that doesn't worry me too much. You know that's not too far outside of the envelope. So it's interesting, though, because all this stuff is going through my head and I'm just trying to be super thorough. Before I open my mouth to the customer, you know I mean I've kind of gave him an idea what I think's going on, but before I give him a final diagnosis and a quote to fix it so and basically now I just need to talk to Copeland.

I went ahead and tried to call my copeland rep in my area today and he's out of town at the moment, so I was gon na wait for him to come back just because I've talked to him before I know I can get a hold of other Köppen reps, but anyways. I just wanted to run things by him. Basically, I've already talked to the manufacturer of the rack. You know and they told me no everything's working correctly and they've told me just to basically lean on Copeland, and so that's where we're at it's.

The it's things like this, sometimes that can just make you want to pull your hair out, even though I don't have very much of it. It's just kind of driving me nuts and and the fact that I'm so thorough is probably my worst enemy, because you know it just makes me. You know just really really look at everything. So so I saw a bunch of comments in here and I want to try to get to this and, let me see, does the capacity of the compressor match the coil, so the capacity of the compressor matches the coil, but on Copeland's product information? It says that this compressor can put out 9,000 BTUs a hundred and five degree condensing temperatures in temp.

That seems we're very, very low. Basically, that's, like seventy degree ambient. So that's an interesting one. Now let me tell you that if I didn't say it already, this is a low temp compressor.

So our problem is is especially once we get down to the low temps. We have the high compression ratios and that's when we really rarely run into an issue so but yeah the I mean I don't know if that's a misprint on Copeland's product information, stuff where it says a hundred and five degree, condensing temp or not, but basically yeah. It says 9,000, some change at 105 degree, condensing. So that's why I really know what's going on with this, but I just I want verification from the manufacturer from Copeland.

You know to tell me this is what we need to do. You know, and just just to verify everything the DTC is feeding now, whether or not it's enough Matt, that's a hard one, because how do you measure if it's feeding enough what I did do I actually went back there today because I was working on another piece Of equipment at this restaurant - and I actually did go up and measure the DTC valve I mean just to verify, and so what I did was I attached a temperature clamp about three inches away from the the discharge of the core, the head of the compressor on The discharge line, and basically at about a hundred and ninety degree discharge temp that dtc valve was feeding you know and it was getting cold. The other thing I did do too was: I pulled the DTC valve apart. I pulled the strainer out of it.

Cuz, there's a strainer on it and made sure that the strainer was not plugged up. It was sparkly clean. I did not have to clean the strainer at all, so I believe the DTC valve is working, but it's always a possibility. It's not! You know it's a hard thing for you to measure, because you know the capillary could be going bad on it there's so many things.

The other thing I did today, too was. I took the the sensing element out of the head of the compressor and put some some food grade. Silicone. That's basically gon na help with like a heat sink.

You know I put some food grade silicone in there, so that way it might get a better temperature and maybe it was losing. I don't know you know I just got. I read something about that about putting some kind of a heat sink in there to help. Actually sense them more accurately, so so, let's see what we got here and I'll try to get to.

How do you deal with calcium with a misty device? That's a horrible thing out here: Glenn, because we have horrible water and then it's very dry. I think on my thermostat today. Actually let me look at it right now and I'll tell you. We have very dry conditions here.

So we are. We are evaporating about water, really quick and then the calcium is being left behind. But right now I was monitoring because I'm not like saturating the condenser. It's not so right now outside it's 98 degrees in the evening, and we have 22 % relative humidity.

So it's a very dry outside today and I think I saw it down at 15 % earlier so yeah it that that stuff, evaporates really quick and the calcium gets left behind. So that's a big problem with the misting device and when I say I have a mister on there I mean it's. It's pulled back about three feet and every once in a while I get it, it hits the condenser. I did have a bigger misting device on it, and then I found out that the roof rack I mean the refrigeration rack actually has a water leak inside of it and when it, when the big mister was on there, it was saturating it, and then it was Just leaking into the building, so that was a whole nother mess.

So anyways it's just like one thing after another with this thing right now, so alright, let's see what the so inside my house right now: Matt it's 43 percent humidity, I'm actually looking at my thermostat app right now so but yeah. So it's it's! 22 percent outside 43 percent inside so, but my AC is running right now. Alright, so I'm gon na go and get to some of your guys's questions in the chat enough talking about what I was doing. So, let's see what we got here.

So, what's the oldest refrigeration system I've ever worked on, I would say the oldest thing to talk about was. I felt really bad doing this because it was crazy taking it out, but I took out a 10 ton carrier split system out of actually I can talk about it because it's not a restaurant out here anymore, but it was out of an old Joe's Crab. Shack, restaurant and it was it had a Oh 60 Carlisle compressor in it. The compressor was in the air handler.

This was up in an attic. This was a really unique design because there was just a condenser on the roof and then the air handler was downstairs and if I remember right, that system was from the 60s that was probably the oldest air conditioning system. I've worked on and then refrigeration systems. I don't think I've worked on anything that old, maybe 70s 80s.

You know, but nowadays we refrigerate until a stiff long for sure you get. You would still see some of those older air conditioning systems and even that that carrier that I mentioned, that was probably 10 years ago 12 years ago, that I did that and what a what a bear that was taken apart and I felt so bad too, because We ended up putting your key quitting it back in there. I don't know why, because I I'm not gon na pass judgment but yeah. I ended up putting York equipment back in there.

I think I did it because of the air handler sighs. I think I was just basically looking at something that was comparable to what was in there, and I know it won't last nearly as long. You know it's just crazy. What I pulled out took like almost 3-4 days for us to get it out with just three guys: we had to cut it up into pieces, it was all steel and heavy, and you know what we put in.

There was super light and cheap. So all right, let's see what is the super heat set properly? Is there enough suction cooling come back towards the compressor John yeah, so the super heat at my evaporator is about 8 degrees. I measured at my compressor and it was a little bit high at the compressor. I think I think it was at the upper end of the 40s coming back to the compressor, which isn't too bad, it might have been at the low into the 50s.

I'd have to look back on my paperwork, but yeah we had super heat coming back, so we have suction cooling coming back, but yeah what's interesting is is just over amps when you have your, so I'm leaning towards this compressors, just operating outside of its envelope, is What I'm leaning towards and and/or the condensers under sized, because when you take that misting device off head pressure immediately drives up and yeah compressor just starts to climb in amps, even with the misting device on there. I think the compressors running out, like almost 10 amps and I think it's rated at like 9 or something like that or 10, or something like that. But it's right on the envelope you know so all right so ray-ray on my latest video did. I replace the fan or just the motor.

Oh yeah grease fires, yeah Burger King yeah, that sucks on so I didn't replace the motor yet so the if you looked at my recent video where I showed an exhaust fan, there was actually two exhaust fans. So the second fan that I showed in the video we actually replaced that fan and the first fan the one that was laying on the ground. I'm submitting a quote to go ahead and replace that fan we so at this particular restaurant. All of those fans are from 2004, I think and they're just getting worn out they're dirty inside it's time to replace them vibrations and different things.

Unfortunately, one of the things that I find in restaurant work is, is you know they realized. Some restaurants realize that the refrigeration needs to be maintained. At least somewhat you know, and what I tend to see them lack on is the grease cleaning. So I've noticed the intervals of grease cleanings on the exhaust fans going down and down where we get more grease.

Buildup in these fans and when we get grease buildup inside of them, we tend to start to notice more vibration, issues and bearings going out and different things like that. So you'd be surprised for those of you that don't know the least. You know just the slightest amount of grease on an exhaust fan, the airflow is reduced and they go out of balance really easy. You can actually bend a shaft on an exhaust fan or Bend a wheel just because there's an eighth of an inch of grease buildup on it.

You know and if there's a little bit more on one side more than the other side, it'll overtime. Because of the centrifugal force, it'll actually start to bend components inside there and create problems. So definitely interesting. People need to be cleaning a lot more of their fans and different things.

So, all right, let's see what else we got alright. How do I like working on those greasy exhaust fans? Yeah, I mean it's, you know it's not the greatest thing, but you know I don't clean them heck. No, I don't clean those fans, they got companies that do that. We just serviced them.

So it's just. You know doesn't really bother me too much so do capacitors and circuit boards fail, as often as regular run. Capacitors Zack, I don't know man I mean honestly. I don't ever try to change a capacitor and a port.

If a board fails, then it's time to change the board, I don't know I. I have seen some videos where people try to repair circuit boards and different things, but that's not really my cup of tea. I don't have the time to do that so um. If a boards that I'm changing it so all right, let's see let's go to some of my stuff right here, so I got a couple things I want to talk about.

Oh, I don't think I've seen either of them in here, but I do want to say. Congratulations: social media guys that are out there tersh, Blissett and Andrew grieves. Aka hvac, both of them were nominated, actually won. The 40 under 40 for the ACH are whatever news i saw it come across facebook today.

That was really cool, so congrats guys and i'm happy for you guys. So so does the rack have a swamp cooler, kyle carmen? No, it doesn't have a swamp cooler, kyle and that's something another thing too that I had thought about doing. If the customer didn't want to go as far as putting a new condensing unit on there, I could definitely just throw a swamp cooler up there and kind of pre cool the rack. That would definitely be a better way than using a misting device.

So I think I even mentioned that I might just do that on social media. So alright, let's see what else mcDonald's has an interlock on their exhaust systems and it's a drag yeah. So, oh so yeah fluke, 196 see you've been looking for the hook on my rope. Can I mention where I got it yeah.

I got it from our SD refrigeration supplies, distributors, but I believe you can get them at other supply houses too. It's made by Klein and while I'm talking right now, I will actually find a link for you and put it in that thing. So let me go to here and get you that link real quick. So, let's see what else the other video that I had uploaded was a walk-in freezer, not working, and I wanted to point out something so walk-in freezer.

I ended up replacing a TXV and I apologize. There was a couple things that I didn't put into that video that I know people were asking me about. Why didn't I check the defrost. I had actually recently just done some work on the defrost system for that unit, so I did know that the defrost system was working properly, so that was on that particular video and that's why I leaned towards the diagnosis of the bad TXV.

I also have another video that I'm working on it's the almost the same exact evaporator coil, where we have almost well. No, it's an opposite problem. We have it actually had too low of super heat and it was another one of those Emerson, walk-in freezer valves, um. Not trying to pass judgment on Emerson, but I am NOT a fan of of the Emerson expansion valves.

I really prefer the Copeland ones so much better, so I'm sorry spoiling ones spoil and expansion valve so much better. So in here I've got a link right now to this hook. I'll put it in here thanks fluke, I really appreciate it, but so here's a link to this hook if you're interested in it's an amazon link, you can click on that. You could just at least find out what the part number is on it, and then you can go to our SD or wherever you can get it from Amazon.

Anything you want you guys. I do put links in the bottom of my videos. I personally buy my tools from supply houses or from true tech tools comm, but I do throw Amazon links inside of there. You know I do get its it's like an affiliate link, so I get a small Commission on it.

You know if you use them, if not, you know, i ha'n't strongly suggest that you guys shop at supply houses, though, because we need to support our supply houses, and I really do like true tech tools, com2 so but some of the stuff you can't get from There so I do find myself having to go to Amazon for a few things that I find so alright, let's see yeah personal yeah. I just really don't care for the Emerson, TX fees, but I don't want to talk crap on people dude, so you know alright. So, let's see what else we got in here on my my list of stuff to talk about so okay, I got a couple questions, so this person had asked me a question and they said okay, so this person asked me if his okay, so I can kind Of tell this guy's a business owner, but I think some of these points are really important, so I still want to answer them. So I'm just going to read his question verbatim: okay and then I'll try to answer it as best as possible.

So it says my freezer is inside of my cooler, so the only air that gets to the freezer is 38 to 40 degrees. So dude and he's asking me if door gaskets are that big of an issue. He would not think they are okay and he's also saying that uh, how important is it that the the freezer door is shut inside? The cooler he's asking me okay, and he also is saying: does the ice on the ceilings and walls contribute to the problem? So if you're watching this, I'm just gon na, say your first name Dan - that put this in here, so a walk-in freezer, it's very important that we maintain all closing Hardware on the doors that we keep the door shut and that we maintain our gaskets okay. Gaskets are very, very important and I think a lot of restaurant owners don't really understand the importance of a door gasket, okay, on a walk-in freezer.

If you have a door gasket, that's failing what you'll tend to notice, there's a lot of ice around the doors and then you'll have doors that get stuck hinges that go bad water gets on the floor. People slip on it all kinds of problems: okay, keeping the door in your equipment shut is imperative all right on a walk-in freezer. It's even more important, I shouldn't say more important, but there's some more things that can happen in a walk-in freezer too, leaving a door open on a walk-in freezer can lead to a lot of freeze up problems, meaning that the unit can freeze up the coils can Freeze up and then the unit will stop working. Something that you have to understand and remember is that ice is.

It starts to form at 32 degrees, okay, but ice acts as a great insulator. So once ice starts to build up, it actually insulates and doesn't allow the temperature to drop any more okay. So once you get a lot of ice on your evaporator coil, the air flow doesn't happen properly, then heat transfer doesn't happen properly and everything goes down. The hill so always want to make sure that you're maintaining door gaskets even on your reaching coolers everything door gaskets are imperative.

Okay, we need to keep that outside air out of that box in order for that box to work properly. So it's very important that we shut our doors, maintain our gaskets make sure that our closing hardware, the hinges - should be self closing and you should have a door closer on there. That's closing that door too. Okay, very, very important.

Let's see yeah all right, let's see what else we got in here, okay, the next one I want to get to is another question that I had by I'm just gon na, say the first name and not to say the last name was a person named Justin And he he asked me has a question about temperature difference when troubleshooting refrigeration systems or a TD, he said he's using a walk-in cooler, for example, and some of the classes he has been in. They were taught that TD is the difference between the air and the saturation temperature of the refrigerant okay. However, he thought that in one of my videos he saw me use supply air versus return air, and this is on refrigeration, okay and he's also heard of other people using supply air versus return air. So he just wants a clarification on what the temperature differential is.

Okay, so let's differentiate between two things - and this is a very confusing topic, especially for people coming from air conditioning to refrigeration. A TD of a system is the difference between the return air or the Box temp and the saturation temp of the refrigerant okay. That is our evaporator TD. The delta T is the difference between return and supply air.

Now, in refrigeration we typically don't use delta T very much, but I am going to give you guys a really good way to use delta T okay, but it's very important that we understand the difference. So our system is designed typically most coils out there. Walken's and walk-in freezers are designed with a 10 degree TD unless an engineer's gotten involved in there doing some funky stuff inside of there. Okay, most systems are sized for a 10 degree TD, which also is a really good way, and I've mentioned this many times before in my videos is that we can use our TD to help us predict what our pressure should be right because, and I'm not gon Na steal this, I believe it was Jim Bergman had mentioned on social media or on YouTube one time, maybe on one of Brian or his podcasts.

You know that you really have no business putting service gauges on a system. If you don't know what the pressure should be before you put your gauges on there, you should be able to predict what your pressure should be. You don't want to look at them and say: hmm that doesn't seem right. Okay, typically, most systems, refrigeration, walkins and freezers are designed with a 10 degree TDS.

So if that being said, if we know what our saturate or our box temp should be once we're close to our box temp, we can predict, assuming that we have a 10 degree TD, that if we have a 40 degree box, that our saturation temperature of refrigerant Should be about 10 degrees below that that gives us an idea on our saturation temple on the suction side. Now, what about our dish are our liquid or discharge side right? We can make some assumptions just rules of thumb, all right. Micro channel coils are going to be about 15 to 20 degree condensing tempo over ambient. That's a rule of thumb! No don't hold me to that.

Okay and older tube and fin condensers are going to be about 25 to 30 degrees over ambient condensing tempo for ambience. So that means that the return or the outside air is a hundred degrees on a tube and fin condenser. You can kind of assume that your condensing temperament and on a micro channel 20 to 25, okay, but again, rules of thumb. You can't just run with those manufacturers get involved.

They start tweaking things and doing weird stuff, but that can at least get you in the ballpark, so that kind of gives you an idea. Okay, so hopefully I answered your question there. Justin, let's get to. Let me see if I'm missing anything did I get the measure quick update, great thanks for bringing that up and anything because I actually have that on here.

So I noticed just before I went live that Jim Bergman had posted something on Facebook and he said that measure quick release, their refrigeration profiles and stuff, and I have not had a chance to use it yet. So I will definitely be updating it and checking it out. I am a huge fan of measure quick and this actually answers another question, because someone asked me what I'm gon na say. Your first name Anthony asked me: what's the name of the HVAC program that I use on my tablet, and that is called measure quick.

So I use a samsung tablet. There's links in the video notes of this video for the tablet that I use but measure quick is the application that I use and it's a great air conditioning application, and I can only expect the refrigeration application that was just released today to be amazing too. So I highly suggest, if you guys, aren't already download measure quick. It works with a lot of the and I have no affiliation with them guys.

I just like promoting the products that I like okay, so it works with all kinds of different probes out there. Currently, right now, I believe it's test oh and feel peace, but I know that there's a lot on the about to be released. So there's a lot of good information coming out with some cool probes. So there's a lot of cool stuff with that coming out soon.

So so measure quick yeah, I love it now ray-ray, so you did say: spoilin is best in the industry. I have not gotten this confirmation from spalling yet, but I did get a confirmation on Bryan ORS podcast. I believe that he did with Jim Bergman, where Jim said that spoilin has has decided to go ahead and integrate he to integrate their probes with measure quick. So that's just hearsay.

Hopefully you know that's true. I wouldn't think Jim Bergman wouldn't say it on the air live if it wasn't true, but that's really cool too, so the spoilin probes supposedly soon are going to be able to be used with measure quick. So that's an interesting thing to coming out. How often do I rebuild TX fees? Company policy has replaced the whole thing to be safe, Zak there's.

No, I I do not think that is a problem. Okay, my company policy - I I don't have a policy per se, but it just depends. I you know if I'm working on a reach-in cooler, I'm probably not gon na - put a powerhead on it, because it's a pain in the butt to change. If I'm working on a walk-in and it's got symptoms of a bad power head, yeah I'll change the power head.

But if one of my guys calls me - and I don't have a lot of confidence in the diagnosis or in the ability to change, just the power head or something I'll - probably lean more towards change in the entire valve, so I would say that I probably lean A little bit more towards changing the valve now I will say that there's not a lot of components that actually fail inside of an expansion valve, especially when we're talking about the spoil and one's okay, and I actually grabbed one right here hold on. So in a sport'ln expansion valve - and I showed this last week - here's a spoil in expansion valve right here, so you've got a couple components. I know. That's probably I don't know if my cameras focusing very well there you go so you've got a spring.

You've got a seat that has the pin on it and it just goes up and down, and then you have the push pins right here and you have a power head. The most common part to fail on this valve is the power head and usually what happens? Is the sensing element rubs up against something and the refrigerant charge leaks out of the power head? That's a very common issue with these a lot of times on these valves. They have a strainer on the inlet and you can pull the strainer and clean the strainer. Now this is a flare valve.

I don't use flare expansion valves anymore. That's why I took this one out of my shop stock and cut it up, but there's not a lot of components to fail on this valve now what can happen? In my opinion, we get a lot of failures when we don't do proper system procedures, basically we're not following proper refrigeration practices. If we're not evacuating the system. If we have contaminants in the system, then sure you could have things gumming out.

The inside of this valve kind of like the debacle that happened with the rust inhibitor in the unnamed compressor manufacturer - that's probably one of the biggest out there and they had all kinds of expansion valve problems that wasn't necessarily the problem of the expansion valve. Actually wasn't the expansion problem at all? It was that there was contaminants in the system that weren't meant to be in the system when they were clogging up orifices and gumming up needles and different things inside those valves. So hopefully that answered your question there. But let's see how hard is the Hoshizaki ice machine combo, drink dispenser to fix? I've never worked on the drink, dispenser portion ray-ray, but any of the Hoshizaki dispenser machines, they're, they're kind of a pain I mean they're, not horrible, it depends on which one it is a lot of times.

I don't do a lot of dispenser work, but the little bit that I have done has been pretty difficult because they're usually tucked up in a tight place and they're kind of hard to get to the parts. I would say the majority of my frustrations with ice machines have to do with the installation locations and not necessarily the Machine. So, for instance, I love working on Manitowoc. Quiet, cube ice machines.

Those are the number 1 machine that I work on, but what I hate about them is: is they stack too quiet cube machines next to each other on a bin, and you have no room in there to get in there and change components. If you have to change thermistors which fail on the ice machines, often on the manager, walks they're a pain in the butt, so I would say that how hard are the Hoshizaki ones to work on? I don't know your particular model ray, but I've never worked on the drink station portion. I wouldn't work on that. I would just do the ice machine, but they can be kind of did you know difficult.

I've worked on some dispenser, the DCI or the. I can't remember the dispenser model numbers at like hospitals too, but generally my as far as reliability and dependability, I'm going to go out on a limb and say the Hoshizaki czar, usually the better ones they last a little bit longer. But you know manna stalks are pretty much right up there to. I think that a lot of people you know like I would say that I really don't like working on Scotsman's and I cymatics, but it's just in my opinion, because I don't work on them very much.

If I worked on a more often I'd, probably be more comfortable with them, so how do you determine power limiting TXV and are they only for low temp applications, so Ralph on the powerhead of the expansion valve see I cut this power head, so I don't have A new one, but on the power head of the valve, there's going to be a pressure charge right here and it'll, say: VC, Victor Charlie or zebra Paul, okay. The first letter indicates the refrigerant. The second letter indicates what kind of a head is on it and what kind of charge it has so like a zp charge is going to be a 404 a slash 502 low temp pressure limiting, so the P means pressure limiting HVAC rookie. Thank you very much for that super chat.

That's really cool of you guys, you guys that put those in there. Those are not expected, but they really do help. So thank you so very much guys that are doing the super chats. So you would, you would know by the the number on the powerhead itself and it's going to say, zebra Paul.

No, it is not just on low temp because we do have pressure limiting power. Heads on air conditioning systems too so spoilin has it on there power head now. Other manufacturers like Emerson and Danfoss I'm not too familiar with how their power elements work. I'm just really familiar with the spoilin power element.

So you'll know, though, basically at the end of the number it'll say, vcp and that'll tell you you know: vcp would be r22 medium temperature pressure, limiting so or rzp would be 502 low temperature pressure, limiting SCP would be 404, a which 404 and 502 is the Same power head, so you guys get the point, so you can find more information on spore lens website. Ask the Google, as I said earlier in the chat, just ask the Google spoilin power head pressure, limiting and just put that in the Google search and it'll. Come right up so alright, let's see what else: hey Rick, how you doing bud Northwest Ohio, HVAC videos good to see you in here man, hey Adam, how you doing bud all right. Let's see what else we got questions wise guys, okay, so I'm gon na get to another thing.

I have in my my list stuff to add. Okay, so really good, really good one guys and this person, his your name, onus, say your first name. Your name is Bo, I think that's how you say it. So he says that he's and I'm gon na read this kind of verbatim.

So that way you guys kind of get an idea. What he's telling me okay and then we can kind of go through this, and I can help to help him to understand and hopefully help someone else to understand this too. So he's got a walk-in cooler that keeps freezing up. He says it's for his friend.

I don't know whether or not that's true, I'm not judging you. If it's not, you can send me a question if you're a business owner, I don't mind helping people okay, so he has a walk-in cooler that keeps freezing up if this person isn't a restaurant owner. I can tell that he's - probably a air conditioning technician by the way that he's trying to work on the system and there's nothing wrong with that. Guy's.

Okay, nothing wrong with wanting to learn. There's no stupid questions; okay, the! But if you can have a better informed question that will definitely help them. This guy has a pretty informed question, so he lists off what his stuff is. So he tells me what the low pressure control cutout is.

It's Kitaen at 20, cut out at 5. He's got a high pressure control cut out at 400, auto reset. He says his sight glasses here clear. His superheat is ten degrees has subcooling is five degrees.

His box temperature is 40 degrees and then he lists as low pressures and his high pressures. I don't see saturation temps, but I can figure that out by myself. Okay, the pressures aren't the point, let's get to the important part right here, so he thinks that he's trying to bring the low pressure up. Okay, because his logic is, is that the system's freezing, because the low pressures too low so he's adding more refrigerant to bring the low pressure to 76.

This will not freeze on the evaporator, but the low pressure does not change when he keeps adding more refrigerant. Only the sub cooling gets higher all right, so what is happening here what's happening is you're working on a refrigeration system and you're trying to think about it like an air conditioning system, okay - and you also got to understand - and I mean that's - not even the right Way to think about it with an air conditioning system either, but your logic is a little skewed because you're not going to add refrigerant or remove refrigerant. Once you have a clear sight, glass, you're, gon na leave it at that you're, not gon na change. Anything else where I and he's saying that the evaporator only has a thermostat control solenoid valve.

So it's a pump down system. The evaporator fans are always on you know, so he goes through all that stuff and Dallas thanks. So very much man HVAC our North Zak awesome guys. Thank you very much, okay.

So your your your bow. Your logic is a little skewed. Okay and there's nothing wrong with it. You just need to understand a little bit more so once you have a clear sight, glass on your refrigeration system, what you want to do is you want to look at your saturation temperatures of your refrigerant, okay, and let me pull up my chart here and look At the saturation temp on my I'm gon na use a mobile app here, real quick and he says it's 404 a refrigerant.

Does he actually tell me the refrigerant? I can't remember yeah, he says 404 a refrigerant, so I'm gon na go ahead and input the pressures and see what we come up with. Okay, so at 68 psi the saturation temperature of 404 - a is 29 degrees. Okay, so his logic is: is that he's getting that evaporator to cold and that's what he thinks is freezing it up? Whether or not that's true, I don't know because a lot of variables that go into that is your airflow correct. Is your coil clean? Is it bent or the fan motors going in the right direction? Okay, before we start playing with the refrigerant charge, we need to verify everything's correct with the fans.

What kind of an evaporator coil is it? Does it suck from the inside out? Is it a ceiling? Mounted is it a wall mounted if Bo? If you want to send me more answers to my questions here, you feel free to send them to my email. Send me pictures show me what you're dealing with okay. What I need to know bull Bo is, is, you know, is the system working properly as far as air flow goes? Okay, before we start adjusting refrigerant charge and stuff, I'm a little leery that you've added refrigerant? Okay, because we don't add refrigerant to change the saturation temperature once we have a clear sight, glass on a refrigeration system, if we need to change our saturation temperature or change the yeah, we might adjust our expansion valve okay. So I don't really have an answer for you Bo, but I'm hoping that you can understand a little bit more and then you can give me some more.

Let's see what we got going on, how do you determine the proper defrost cycles for your walk-in freezer geremy? So what you want to do on a walk-in freezer, is you typically want to start? Let's, let's make sure, first, that your limit switches are working correctly? Okay, so you have defrost termination switch and you have a fan. Delay switch okay. We got to make sure that they're working properly, so if we want to test the defrost termination switch, what you want to do is set a really long defrost, let's set it for two hours: you're, not gon na. Let it go through a two already for us, but just set your defrost for two hours turn a stopwatch on on your phone put it into defrost within about twenty minutes.

More than likely your systems gon na pop out a defrost. If your limit switch is working correctly, you have a defrost termination limit switch. If it's not working correctly, then we need to fix that. Okay, our fan delay switch when it pops out a defrost.

What you want to do is you want to go downstairs and see if your evaporator fan motors are running right away, they should not be. There should be a Leica, sometimes might be thirty to ninety second delay, maybe two minutes at the most. You know delay and then your evaporator family door should turn on. If that's the case, then your evaporator fan delay switch is more than likely working all right once we know that our limit switches are working properly.

What I would suggest you do here in Southern California, we have a drier climate. I think I told everybody that we have about 20 % outdoor humidity right now and I think in my house it's about 43 percent, so we can expect that to be pretty common inside of our restaurants and stuff too. So we don't have high humidity. So what we do is we start with four defrost a day for 30 minutes now, if you go to some of the really humid climates, you may need to change that a little bit, but I would suggest you start with four defrost and you set them for Thirty minutes that thirty minutes is a failsafe time and usually the limit switches will kick it out a defrost before the failsafe times ends okay, so I would start with four defrost a day is my opinion and then adjust accordingly from there.

If that doesn't solve your problem, you can go ahead and put two more defrost in there. While you can try adjusting the times longer, but you want to be careful about, is you don't want to defrost to be too long? I wouldn't suggest setting a defrost for more than thirty to forty five minutes, because once you go past that you're gon na have condensation issues and different things. That can happen too. So hopefully that answers your question for you.

But let's see what else we got see. Nightbot is going kind of crazy, double double posting things, huh all right. Please talk about silver, king units and how that's ito? Okay, so you know, I don't want to bash a particular piece of equipment, but I will say that silver, king regions, if you work for a certain restaurant chain Rell. Thank you very much man.

If you, if you look at, if you look at us, there's a certain restaurant chain that uses a lot of silver King, we don't miss in restaurant chains in here, which ones they are, but there's a certain one and they have a lot of silver king equipment And silver king can be a bear to work on, especially if you ever have to take apart their drawer racks. Oh my gosh, you want to pull your yeah, I'm gon na watch my mouth, but you want to pull your hair out trying to take apart. Your rack, so just accessing their coils is kind of a nightmare to Tito. The one that Tito was working on Tito 209 is his name in here he was working on is a very similar one and it has two evaporator covers, and what I do is I slide one over defrost and evaporator slide, the other one over defrost, the other Evaporator and try to get the covers out because it covers our nightmare.

But I had to send one of my text to change for the axial fan motors on one of the silver kings the other day. And he said it was a nightmare because all the screws were stripped out. So any guys. I don't want to talk crap on manufacturers, but there's some out there that are worse than others for sure.

So, let's see what else guys um for those of you that are posting questions in here - try to make sure you post them in caps lock, because I don't have a moderator in here today to help me. So if you can, I don't want to miss your questions so Nate refrigeration. I see that you, if I ever worked on any heat craft units of the beacon to set up electronic expansion valve set up. You have one last week on a walk-in cooler that the expansion valve is stuck open, 90 psi low side.

I have heard I do not work on any beacon systems. I do work on the qrc, which is a dumbed-down beacon system. Okay, it still uses the beacon to board electronic expansion valves, but I have heard some horror stories about the beacon systems, but I will say that majority, the time again, I'm gon na say that most of the the horror stories that I find or see myself are Because of improper installation, I could expect that an electronic expansion valve would not like to see sludge and crap stuck inside the valve, which would probably make it hard okay, but I have heard about the issues with the the electronic valves on the beacon systems. I personally haven't done any beacon work, so all right, let's see what else um what other questions we have here.

Do I work on silver, king milk dispensers? I Brandon. I worked on a silver king milk dispenser one time silver king called me out to do a warranty job at a particular coffee, place and yeah. I don't want to mention names but anyways. I did a warranty job for silver King and they don't.

Let me do warranty work after that job, because they only wanted to pay me like 45 minutes, and it was stupid and I was like no, you know like I'd, never worked on one before and they sent me out there knowing that and they sent me instructions And it took me like two hours, I think, got to change the valves or something like that, which even said we need you to change these dispenser valves here they are, they sent them to me. I didn't diagnose them, they just sent them. So, of course, when I went out there, I did big picture. I went through everything, checked everything out made sure it was all working and they didn't like that.

They just wanted me to go in and change the valves and move on, and I said if you want that to work, you need to call someone else and they don't call me for warranty work anymore. So, hey so be it. I don't care Andrew Hicks. Are you the only person that hates hates Traulsen? No, I mean you know what Charleston has definitely fallen off the map as far as their quality.

But let me let me say this traulsen used to be the best manufacturer of refrigeration when the years real, stainless steel and they were made in California. They were great high quality pieces of equipment, but the they definitely are going down in quality. But I think they're doing it just to compete with everybody else, because you get these companies, the the Korean companies and different things that come in and they're making all these really cheap boxes. And basically, if Charleston doesn't make a, you know, lower quality box, they can't compete so they have to.

They still make some high quality stuff, but I would definitely say that their equipment that's produced today, certainly isn't as high-quality and easy to work on as the equipment that was produced 10 years ago for sure and then 20 years before that it was even better to.