All right today we're installing a nice mitsubishi, 12 000 btu one-way ceiling cassette, as you can see right here. What this will do is actually just recess nicely in the ceiling. So the first thing that we'll always do is make sure we have enough space in between the trusses, so this one actually requires at least 12 inches and 12 and 1 8 inch. So if we look right here, we've got plenty we're about 20 and a half there, so we're able to fit that in there.

The next step we usually do once we're making sure that it fits is going to finalize from the customer themselves on where they want. It so here we have the choice of more of the middle of the room itself or more in the middle of the wall here, so they actually chose the middle of the wall. So we're going to hide that, so the ceiling can set right up there for it, and once we get the spot nicely middle here. What i'll do then, is take the tape, measure and merit and measure for the all thread that will be coming down to support this unit.

So i'd measure from up here - and i end up with about 32 inches just to give myself some clearance to be able to raise and lower the unit. So the nice thing with these is the body of the unit itself will actually sit flush with the drywall. The cover will actually just go right into it and hold it in place for it all right. So the nice thing with the author, it is after you cut it best thing i always like to do is actually try to put a nut on it.

First, just to make sure that your cutting actually did not destroy the threads at all, and once i do that i'll actually put a nut higher, put one washer here and then i'll put a second washer on there just to slide the unit in between there. To give it nice support, so it won't really move or buckle, and it just slides right into here and those get tightened down and it'll stay nice and firm for it next part. What i'll do is i'll? Take these eye hooks right here and we'll actually install them on the trusses up there. So what i usually do is take a small hole drill a little bit and then just screw these right in to get them nice and tight up there.

So i've already got the mark off right here, where i need this one to go for the all thread. What i'll do is i'll raise it up there and once i get it nicely lined up. I can find where i need to put this at, and i drill a nice little small hole here and then i take my little hook here and i start screwing it in there. It's always a good thing to wear gloves, because roofing nails will get you all right next, we'll take the all thread and actually hang it through the hook.

We have right here so on one side of it. We have the washer right there and then we'll take our nut here and thread it onto it. So after you get all the four all threads up here, so we have a nice support for this, we'll actually take the unit and hang it up here, as you can tell, we have the unit up, we have it secured on the for all threads that are Up there hanging it securely next, we'll actually take the copper, we'll run it from the outside over here, where the unit will be out there run it up overhead right into that spot. There also the drain line will go there too.

So now we're prepping the copper to run. What we'll do is tape both the liquid and the suction line together here with also our communicating wire, which is a nice 14-4 here that has the black and white for the main power, the red for the communication and just the ground with it we'll just tape. It all nicely together now what we're doing is taking the copper and going up through the soffa here, where we already had a hole cut earlier today. So he'll just push that up there and then what i'll do is go inside and actually pull the copper through.

So here is the copper coming up right here: keep it above the trusses, as we can pretty much just go straight towards the unit all right. This is just the cover that actually goes over the drain line, hookup right here, along with your copper connections right there. So we remove that so we're able to get these off here, the nice large nuts that will actually hold the copper flares to the unit itself. We got our two copper lines here, so what i need to do is actually hand bend these, so they form a nice little.

U to actually come straight into the unit nice and neatly, and then next i'll end up taking these nuts right off here and then i'll actually put them right here on the copper for it, because you never want to forget those all right. So the next step is actually to make the flares on these so right here i have this nice clear, gun right here made by navic and since the copper we have from it is 3 8 and quarter. They have the nice little parts here that are just for 3, 8 and a quarter, and what you'll end up doing is just taking your copper. There slide it in there.

The nice thing is, it has a little stopper, so it'll keep you right at the point where you need it for a perfect flare each time, and so what i'll do is i'll? Take these here's. My nice quarter right here, i'll slide it right onto here and it'll stop and then i just put this down and it squeezes it and then it compresses right onto it, tighten that down, and then this just comes in here slides on there and you lock it Into place, then you go forward and you pull it right back. I take this nicely off and with a nice flare each time. So then that goes right in there and then it'll secure properly right here to the connectors here and we're good to go.

So the most most important part of this is whenever you're connecting these copper joints. They actually ask for a certain torque rating. So if you actually open the nice book right here, we have a quarter inch pipe diameter and 3 8 right there. So our foot pound is 10 to 13 and 25 to 30..

So you always want to make sure you have a torque wrench with you just so that you're able to get those to the right point, because it is extremely important. It will help your flares hold a lot better and honestly, it's a lot less pressure than you would actually think it would be now i'm actually going to prep these by taking some nylog and actually putting them on the threads of this to help seal this up. So usually, what i would do is actually a little less torque, so not quite to like the 13 on the quarter inch. What i'll end up doing more or less is probably around 11 just because the nylon does help seal it so much better, all right! So the first thing i want to do is actually scoop back the nut here and actually set the flare right onto the copper here, make sure it seeds nicely and then i'll manually actually screw on the nut here and then once it gets tight i'll actually take My torque wrench and set it down to do 11.1 and there we go correct, torque settings for it, so it'll be nice and happy.

So now we actually have our copper connected here. Biggest thing you always want to make sure. Is you slide down the insulation, because both these lines will condense and then the nice thing with these is actually comes with this piece right here for the drain line, there's just a tube right there, so you actually just slide this right on there and it fits Nice and snug and our drain will actually run the same way. The copper does so it actually bends with it, and then you just have to actually put all these little clasps back into place to make sure everything holds nice and neatly for you all right.

So once everything's attached, we take the cover plate right here and actually put it back over the copper and the drain line. It gives it a little bit of insulation in there, but not too worried because of a with our line installation. All the way up, like it says, should be no worry of any leakage or drippage all right. So next we're going to run our drain line, as you can tell it's following the same line as our copper here, so it's actually going to come out with our line set outside uh.

Most important part with these is to make sure they are insulated. It is actually on a downhill, but it's best to make sure everything is insulated, because you never want any leaks above someone's head and actually a build out like this. Then we just slide it on down. So now what i'll do is i'll actually take the pipe here put a little pvc glue on there, and this comes with a nice attachment, we'll slide right onto it, and i make sure that i have enough in there and then i also insulate that.

So it comes right back up. Our drain line is nicely insulated. All the way till it goes out the wall. All right right here is where our actual voltage comes in.

Our wires will go through. So it's just two little screws and there's our terminal block right. There it says, if you look closely enough, you have s1 s2, s3 uh, mitsubishi's and zoe goes s1 is always the black wire s2 is the white wire s3 is the red wire, and then you have your ground wire right there and then this little guy, just Slides right in here all right, so, as you can tell all the wires are nicely seated in their proper spots along the ground. Then we actually just put this plate right back on there and screw it back on to protect them.

Ta-Da you.