This video is brought to you by spore'ln quality, integrity and tradition. Okay, today we have a chi rack blue unit. Now this is one of the glycol front tables and it is not working. So this one is one where the condensing unit down here cools a flat plate, heat exchanger, that is on the other side of that the refrigerant stays within the condenser and the flat plate heat exchanger, which is on just on the other side of that partition.

Right there and it circulates glycol throughout the unit. So the problem here is: is that we're obviously high in temp, so we got to figure that one out so down here is the base section, and this is just a fan motor, essentially just the heat exchanger, that the cooled glycol passes through. So there's no refrigerant whatsoever in the base section or up here on the top. It's just chilled glycol that runs through there.

So we're going to go ahead and go through the troubleshooting steps and see what we can figure out. This is a basic pump down system where, as the temperature controller controls, a relay module inside that box right there and the relay module turns this solenoid valve on and off, which starts and stops the flow of refrigerant, and this low-pressure control turns the compressor on and Off so sequence of operation, temperature controller says it's hot opens this solenoid valve right here. Suction pressure goes up, compressor turns on cools the box down or cool the the glycol down, and then it just recirculates over and over and over again now there is a pump on the back that circulates the glycol through the top and through the bottom. That runs 24/7, so we're gon na start with this condensing unit right here and see if this solenoid valve is energized and go from there.

The solenoid valve is hot, meaning that is more than likely energized and with that being said, I'm gon na use some vital signs here and I'm gon na need to go ahead and put my suction port on here and test to see. If we have refrigerant pressure because or we can even chest the low pressure control first, but just from looking at it - I bet you this solenoid valve is energized. We can even take a yeah, the the coil is magnetized. This is sticking to it.

So this well, whether or not it has the correct voltage - I don't know, but this solenoid coil is definitely energized, so the refrigerant flow should be turning on this low pressure control. I've said this many times, I'm gon na say it again. Cutting boards are sanitary surfaces. I typically don't like to put my tools or anything on top of the cutting boards.

I prefer to move the cutting boards. If I need to set my tools, then I set them on top of the stainless, but the cutting boards. I don't like to set any of my tools on so I'm gon na remove that cutting board. So that way I have a surface to set my stuff all right.

I've got my meter set up. This is the new field piece SC 480. It's a pretty nice meter. The one thing I will say the SC 480 doesn't have a place for the leads to clip into, but this is their smaller line.

So I understand that, but it has all the cool features. It has phase rotation, which is huge for me, capacitance. It has watts which are power, which you can figure out a whole bunch of things within the field: peace, app, so pretty cool meter. So far, alright we're going to open out the low-pressure control and we have an open, low-pressure control.

So we have an open switch, meaning that this sense is no pressure within the system. So we do need to gauge up on this and figure out. What's going on, I am probed up, I'm using the spoil and smart pull our sensors today. We've got no refrigerant pressure whatsoever in the system, so it looks like we're.

Gon na have a major refrigerant leak within the system. Now, there's some very common places that these units leak at the expansion valve power head. The suction line service valve are the number one place so we're gon na investigate that a little bit further and figure this one out after some investigation. I figured out that someone has replaced this compressor and cut out the suction line service valve.

There's not one there back there at all. So it's just straight pipe, so we're gon na jump on this expansion valve, and this looks like an OEM expansion valve. It's a Amer Center and Alko valve. It's never been changed before so I'm gon na pull the insulation and then we're gon na have to bump this thing up with some refrigerant to be able to find a leak and I'll go pick up my leak.

Detector too. I was able to pull the insulation jacket off the expansion valve and you know if you use your senses, you can check this. I don't feel any remnants of oil and the TXV itself actually doesn't look too bad back there. So I don't know if the Leafs gon na be there not, it doesn't feel like it.

Typically, you should find an oil problem somewhere. I definitely see some remnants of oil on the Keen valve on the receiver, but again at this point, we're gon na need to pressurize this guy up and do an electronically search and what I did was I went to the low pressure, control and pulled one lead Off and taped it up, so I can energize the unit safely. Once I put refrigerant in the system, I don't want the compressor to turn on, so I can energize the system now. There's no fear of the compressor actually turning on and what we're actually gon na do is put a tracer of our 404 a in here and then bump it up with nitrogen to try to find the leak, so we're gon na do that right now, all right! I think I can hear the leak it's kind of hard, because this kitchen is loud, but I think it's in the low pressure control, possibly the leak detector is going to raise, but I'm gon na go ahead and spray.

I got to turn it off because I'm going to spray this thing, but I'll spray, some big glue inside this pressure control, let's see if we can see it yeah all right, so it's leaking inside the little pressure control and it's going crazy. That's I thought I could hear it okay, so I need to go out to my van and see if I have a low pressure control and a liquid line, dryer and sight glass. So I went ahead and changed the low pressure control installed, the new sight, glass combo. I went ahead and also the old low pressure control was using like this lamp cable.

I ripped all that out and went with that. So4 sorry, it's kind of hard to see, but that way it looks better and we're getting started on the initial vacuum. So I have the vacuum thing on there wrong, but anyways. Once I get down to about 1500 ish microns I'll go ahead and close the ballasts right now, I'm pulling just through one side.

I don't know if I'm gon na need to pull from both sides, we'll see all right. So this unit has a funky charge and we may end up going over the charge because it didn't originally have a sight glass but we're gon na start with the factory charge, which is thirty four point: oh eight ounces, so we're just going to shoot for 34 Ounces and then see where that gets us, but we are going to clear the sight, glass and either way so we're zeroed out - and I already purged up to here open this bad boy, we're charging into the high side. I shut the system off so it won't turn on basically we're adding as much gas as the system will take into the receiver, which is where we're going it's being stopped by the still annoyed valve, because it's DNR does and then once it does. That then, we'll start it up and see where the sight glasses on.

So it looks like we're coming right up on it and we're looking for 34 ounces. 34.8. All right! We're gon na stop right there and see where that is, give it a couple seconds and then we'll flip the power switch and we should come on via a little pressure all right. Let's turn it on, but in about 20 psi on the low side.

Take a look at that sight: glass we're gon na, let it run for a bit and see if the sight glass stays clear and if so, we'll leave it at B. Now. The reason why I'm saying that is because this system originally wasn't designed with the sight glass, so we have to make up for that extra volume of space, but it may be fine, but we put in the factory charge and we'll see what happens so far. So good the system is operating suction pressure.

It is under a heavy load, but this unit also because it's glycol it takes forever to come down to temp the plus side on these units. Is they once you get the glycol down to temperature? It takes a long time for it to come up in temp, but in vice versa, it takes a long time for it to bring it down for them. So, but we're looking good so far, we'll look to see if we start noticing a temperature drop on the evaporator temperature and the box stamp and all that good stuff stuff alright. So this is the back side of the cooler here's my little circulator pump.

It's a tiny little black ball pump. We have a reservoir that keep in mind that reservoir level is very high right now the glycol is actually going to contract once it starts cooling, so that level should drop once it's down to temp, but yeah condenser looks really fairly clean. It did have a filter media on it that was really dirty. So I pulled that filter media off, but my flat plate heat exchanger is that inside here it's insulated really well and the refrigeration lines essentially just come in and out of that heat exchanger and that's it.

So the refrigerant stays in the condensing unit and in that heat exchanger and then the glycol comes out the other side of the heat, exchanger pumps into the box and then comes down or all the way through the rails up here all the way through those and Then comes back down and just get just recirculates over and over and over again, so we're looking good, I'm gon na tell the customer to keep an eye on it. It, like I said it's gon na, be at least like an hour or two before this thing. Actually comes down to temperature, but I'm pretty confident they're gon na be okay, all right. This one wasn't too bad.

It was a pretty straightforward service call. When I arrived, the unit was high in temp, like the customer complained about found that the unit was actually low. On refrigerant went through some diagnostic steps to diagnose. Before I put my service gauges on the system, this is a critically charged system, so you want to be cautious about that found a refrigerant leak in the low pressure control.

Ironically, right, the low pressure controls there to protect the compressor and that's actually where the source of the leak was go figure but anyways. I went ahead and replaced the low pressure, control and kind of fixed a few things on the unit, such as the power cable. Going to the low pressure control, it was some sort of lamp. Cable didn't really care for it.

So I ended up using Esso cord and went ahead and put a new filter. Dryer Slyke or filter dryer, slash sight, glass, combo on the unit vacuumed it down, and recharged the customers been happy for about three weeks now, two weeks now, something like that, so all was well really nothing too difficult. I wanted to say thank you very much for taking the time to watch this video all the way to the end. I really really do appreciate you guys for that.

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