This video is brought to you by spore'ln quality, integrity and tradition, so we've got a chi rack blue unit that they're saying is freezing their product up on the top. So we're going to go through everything and see what we can find we'll check our temperatures and see what happens so. The first thing I'm going to do is go ahead and get into here. This is just like a Traulsen unit, even though it's a tie rack same company, so I'm just going to get into our user settings are set.

One is 25 degrees that seems a little low to me. Highest 11 goes 27, but let's go through everything else. We're going to look at our sensors CB says 28. He L says 17 well says 37.

I believe that ll is my hair temperature inside the box, they've reconfigured, this Charleston controller. So in the past that would be a liquid line, but on this they're not using it as that, because they've kind of modified this controller. This is the manufacturer. They modified a Traulsen controller to work on this tire rack, so you just got to come in.

You can't just assume it's the same as the Traulsen, so I'll have to go through this and verify these sensors are actually working correctly. Okay, so on this guy right here, yeah, it's what I thought it was: we've got some bad sensors. I'm going to show you one more time: we're gon na go into the settings and we're gon na go up to we've, got CV, GL and then ll on, like I said earlier, the ll is the air temperature. That's just for the customer to see a temperature in the box that does not affect the operation of the unit at all, so we're concerned with C B and E L and those sensors should be reading pretty close together.

So we've got one reading 28 we've got one reading 17, so 11 degrees off. So what's happening. Is those two affect the operation of the box and they should be reading that? Might you know within a degree or two of the same temperatures? And so that's why we're freezing the product is because we've got a huge temperature swing between those two now where they are right now is not feel replaceable. So what we end up doing like I've, showed you guys before is relocating them into glycol elsewhere inside the box.

So so I'm gon na go out to my truck and see if I've got some sensors right now. So this is the back side. This is our glycol pump. This is our reservoir, that's pretty much it.

So what we're going to do is we're going to go ahead and run the sensors and they're going to go. We're going to drill a hole in the top of this cap and the sensors are going to drop down through this reservoir all the way down into this team, and they have to be all the way down at the bottom of that tee. And we just basically run both the sensors together. So that's what we're gon na do! We're gon na get them ran down into that right now.

So to do this shana before, but I taped the sensors together, because this is a little piece of half-inch, copper below that insulation. So it's difficult, but you notice something! You notice how it has a curl and that's going to be difficult to try to fish down in there. So that's where the zip ties come into play. So what you do is cut a zip tie and tape it to the zip tie and the zip tie will help to keep it straight and you'll see what I mean when I do it right now.

Now you see it has much less of a curl. So it'll be much easier to feed down into there. The next thing you're going to do, is kind of mock it up and find out how far they need to go down, because it's difficult once you get them in there and then mark on the top, with like some tape or something right at this point, you Know wherever it is so that way, once you feed it down, you know how much further you need to go because you can't see down in here so you're just kind of guessing once you feed them in there, so drill the hole in the cap, but I Left the bleeder hole, try not to poke the bleeder hole so that way, once you, because you're gon na seal this up of silicone, so that way it can still breathe and expand if it needed to once I have marked where it is notice. I put a big old fat bead of electrical tape so that way it can't pull through the hole.

So you can't get yanked out because I've had a problem with them being yanked out so so then I got in there and just laid a little bit of silicone, and I know it's hard for you to see, but I didn't get the silicone on that breather. Hole on the top of that cap so then that we were sealed everything's good, a little fitting there to get the wires from rubber now and all this hunky-dory now dinnertime that Yomi well we're gon na get him there and change the air temp sensor to because I change them all at the same time when you're working in restaurants, you'll learn. That cardboard is your best friend. It protects you from all the nasties.

Just don't rub your head in the set on the top of the box. So what you do for this sensor? There's nothing else, you can do you just slice it, so I spliced it right here. You don't want to make it too much longer. So I change all my sensors all three at the same time just because they fail the failure rates so high, so just change them all.

It's just as easy, so yeah. So I spliced that sensor in and then that's pretty much it we're just gon na put this unit back together now. Lastly, I would highly suggest you they're, probably opera fan letters working which it is right. Now you put all the doors and pages back in there.

There's nothing worse than doing all that and then having to take it all back apart. If your wire got stuck in the blade or something so - and this is just gon na - prove it so first off. If you see that the LEL OS that's just a means of that electrical loss, but you see how it says: cabinet or c-47, that's that yellow sensor and then R is 24. So this just shows you that that sensor in here and that does not affect the operation of the unit, the operation is off of the other two sensors.

So those are just a dummy sensor to give the customer a digital display. So if we go up here, ll is that yellow sensor 47, so il is 23 C B is 24. So what they're gon na do? Is they shut off the compressor? Because the glycol temperature is 24 degrees, so they're just going to look the glycol circulate through there and bring the box temp down so see. There's no need for the compressor run, because our glycol, still you know at 24 degrees.

So it's still nice and cold in there and then we can go down here to see our set point of 27 degrees and we're gon na put that to the max which is 27. They only give you so much see they'll. Let you go from 17 to 27 on this one, so we're gon na leave it at the max, because they're already complaining about freezing. So again, ll is 45.

That's the air temp inside the box. Dl is 23. Cb is 24. This guy run now see what happened I'll clean up those sensors.

There was absolutely nothing difficult about this one. The original call was they were freezing the product in their refrigerator, and when I arrived, what I found was that the temperature sensors had failed. Okay, this particular unit is a chi rack, blue unit, okay, so what they do is they use glycol? Is a secondary cooling fluid? Basically, so the refrigerant cools the glycol, then the glycol runs into the box and the air flows across the glycol as a heat exchanger. Okay, so this unit has a few heat exchangers in it.

You have the flat plate, heat exchanger, where the refrigerant heat transfer happens, and then then it goes to the glycol. And then you have the glycol. That's pumped via a little transfer pump. Basically - and that is where the heat transfer happens with the air and it cools the food.

Okay say what you like about these boxes or not. You know there's Goods and Bad's about them. The one bad thing I'll say is they take a very long time to come down to temperature, but once they do come down to temperature, they maintain that temperature very well where they really excel is in the pan, chiller or the cold rail section up top. If any of you has experience with the older Chi rec units that used to use air and they had the cold rails up top and the little fan motor they would constantly freeze up the drains would plug up.

They were just you know. They were very effective in high ambient kitchens, but they had a lot of problems. Well, these glycol these blue units. They really solve all those problems and they still do pretty well in higher ambient kitchens.

I wouldn't see one of these working too well in a kitchen over 80 85, but certainly do a lot better than a lot of other regions, so anyways, so the sensors had failed. This unit has three sensors in it. They do one on the on the out of the the glycol, so basically the the temperature coming out of the heat exchanger, the temperature coming out of the top evaporator, and then they have an air temperature, one. Okay, you would call one eight empty frost sensor and then ones just a display temperature sensor, so we had a failed temperature sensor.

The Box thought that it was, you know, 15 degrees warmer than it actually was inside the box, so they were freezing their product. So when this happens, it's a very common thing: they use the Traulsen sensors. Again any of you that have experience. You know that the Traulsen sensors have a lot of problems.

Chi, rack and Traulsen are owned by the same company, they're kind of sister companies, so they utilize a lot of the same parts. Basically, when Chi rack merged with them with Charlson, they basically abandon most of the Chi rack parts and started utilizing majority of the troelsen parts and you get it they're trying to save money and stuff but anyways. So they have the high failure rate on the sensors. Just like any of the Traulsen coolers do so it's very common that these sensors go bad and when they do go bad, I highly suggest you change them all at the same time, just because of the failure rate same thing on a Traulsen to, if I have About a coil temperature sensor, I change the cabinet sensor on a troelsen but anyways we're going off on a tangent, went ahead and did that.

So it's really not too difficult what you have to do, but you know there's some things you want to follow and some steps. You know I like using that zip-tie tricked and to make sure that that the probes stay in a straight line and it's very important that, when you're feeding those probes down into that glycol reservoir, that they go all the way to the bottom of that copper T That was below the insulation that I that I mentioned in the video. If they don't go all the way down, then they're not getting the returned glycol temperature. If you just set the sensor up in the top of that little reservoir, it might temp.

You know four or five degrees warmer than the actual flow of glycol. Okay and the the flow is the return. It's like the return air temp. Okay, so you want to get the glycol as it's moving to make sure that you get the accurate temperature inside the box, so went ahead and took care of that relocated, the sensors to the back.

That's actually. The way Charleson recommends that the only other way to do it would be to pull the back box often dig through insulation, and that just seems very you know ridiculous and, like I said the first time, I went to go work on one of these. I called trawl or Chi rack. I should I think I said Charleston Dominica, but I call Chi rack and I asked him like how the hickeys supposed to change these sensors and they said, don't don't just relocate him into the glycol return stream problem solved.

So we've been doing that for quite a while now and I actually keep those sensors on my truck because it's a pretty high failure thing on this thing. So I really appreciate you guys taking the time to watch my videos keep in mind. I do live streams Monday evenings if work is permitting and I'm not too busy. I go 5:00 p.m.

Pacific time. I go live on YouTube and then I basically just talk about the videos that I released answer majority the questions a lot of the times. The questions that I get from these videos are pretty similar, so I just kind of address them, usually at one time and then I also answer other questions that people come in. There's a live, chat going on people come in there and they ask questions.

There's usually somewhere between 150 to 200 people in the live chat or watching the video at you know, live basically, and so they ask questions and I try to address as many as I can so feel, free to come in and check it out other than that Guys again, thank you so very much for taking the time to watch these videos. Any questions send me an email. The HVAC are videos of gmail.com leave it in the comments. Leave it in a Facebook comment I'll try to get to it, okay, other than that we'll catch you guys on the next one: okay,.