It has been one full year having parker's portland as a channel sponsor, and i have to say thank you so very much to parker spoiling your guys's support has made this possible the partnership that we have it's amazing and again, i just want to say thank you. So very much to Parker's portland. Alright, we have a complaint of a region that is not working properly. The top and the bottom are high in temp and let's go over here and see what we got going on here.

We got a flashing. Sightglass top is that 39 bottoms at 57, so we're gon na dive into this probably have to top off the charge and find a refrigerant leak. You know the head pressure is rather high for being low on charge and there's a lot of heat coming out of here. So I'm thinking that we might have a dirty condenser also, but we still got to clear up that sight: glass, invert, your 404 cylinder any of your 400 series or any blends.

You need to invert the cylinders and purge the lines before you're charged and then we're just gon na add refrigerant and slowly clear up that sight, glass all right. So as I suspected and get us about a 76 degree ambient in the kitchen and yeah, it looks like these things run about 25 to 30 degree condensing tempo over ambient on average. That's not how I charge it, but I just happen to notice that metric. So it looks like we are possibly overcharged, I mean we do have high head pressure.

Basically, something started leaking, making a noise alright, so we just cleared the sight glass in fact, there's still bubble every once in a while trickle trickle trickle. So it's like we're fully charged and yeah the heat radiating off. This thing is pretty intense, so we're gon na have a dirty condenser. More than likely we got to dive in and find the refrigerant leak too, though the top had actually satisfied because it was set for 37, so I ramped it down lower because we need both the top and the bottom running to do a leak check.

We need all the solenoids open now that I have both of the solenoids open, we're gon na shut the unit off and pull the evaporator section apart all right, let's dive into this guy, I got a hit right when I took the door off like the main Door, you know right here, but then, when I took the cover off we're gon na dive in here and see I like to start from the bottom and work my way up already picking it up, let's go high and see if we're picking it up, because it Could it be falling from the top? No, so let's go low and see if we keep picking it up. Yeah looks like this back bend back here looks to be the problem: yeah, okay, let's get some big glue on there, okay, so the most important thing when you're using big, blue or so bubbles in general. Is you don't want to spray with a bubbly solution? You want a nice, steady stream like that. It's not way you don't create bubbles and the bubbles that come are from a refrigerant leak, so see how it's spraying on steady.

I don't, I literally put it all over the place, not creating bubbles, myself, nice, steady stream. All right and then we're gon na, let it sit for a sec and see what we can see. There's the leak right there right on the end of the return Bend. I don't see any leaks down here honestly, if that's the only leap, I can repair that that looks like an easy one.

Let me throw some sublevels on the rest and see if we get anything else. If we don't, then I'll heat it up and lay a braised joint on that, so I turned it back on and we're gon na do a pump down so essentially we're gon na go over to the kini valve on those evil front seat it and then just Wait for the refrigerant to back up, so the refrigerant is going to stop basically at the suction read/write, and it's gon na back up from the discharge all the way into the condenser and the receiver and not go through the liquid line anymore. So the refrigerant flow stops basically right here and doesn't allow it so I'll be able to repair the leak, because it's on the low side and then also change the liquid line, filter dryer, so we're just waiting for it to pump down. While it's pumping down utilize.

This time to see if the low pressure control works and it just shut off at about 5 psi, so low pressure control is good. So, alright, that's it we're just going to let it sit we'll, go ahead and open up the low side. Now that it's turned off, let the vapor that's stuck in there, just the residual vapor bleed off, so that we can braise on the system without pressure building up on the low side. I am have these fitting brushes that I use for cleaning inside copper pipe and you take an old one and cut the end off there and it becomes a great tool so doing this a little different because I'm afraid about melting a hole.

So I'm laying the solder on there early kind of like I was soldering. You know like plumbing pipe or something we're just going to lay it on heavy and heat it up and then just investigate to make sure, there's no giant hole. Now, there's not again. This is not a permanent.

This isn't going to last forever. This coil leaking on the return. That means the other ones are going to leak soon too, but we have good coverage on the return. Bend looks good, that's good enough for now.

I'd love to heat up the rest of the joints and everything, but I'll just create more leaks again. This is only a temporary solution. Okay, this is one of those instances where I'm gon na pull through my manifold all right. I know I preach proper vacuum and everything, but this is a pump down system that more than likely still has leaks.

Okay, you're, never gon na pull a submicron, crazy, low, micron level vacuum. When you have a receiver, that's pumped down because you're going to end up pulling through all the valves in the system, so you just do your best to get it below, pull some microns and then just you know, you've got to kind of make an educated decision, But I'm not going to stress this too much so we're gon na fire, this guy up we're gon na open up the low side, we're gon na open up process hose and the vacuum hose and again. This micron reading is gon na, be a little inaccurate because it's reading microns here and not in the system so you're gon na take this. You know lightly, but we're just gon na.

Let this run for a little bit. I'm pulling through I've got the gas pellets opened at the moment on the field piece pump and we're just gon na. Let it suck down below a thousand then I'll, close the gas ballast and just let it run for a bit. But again, I'm not looking for a perfect vacuum, because this is a pump down system.

The king valve leaks, the suction Reed I guarantee has some leakage. I mean you're, never gon na get a perfect vacuum on a pump down system. Now, to be clear, my manifold has a built in micron gauge and it says 789 microns. It is not below 782 microns in the system.

Okay, the micron gauge in the manifold gives you some false readings. If you don't know how to read it, that means it's 789 microns between this pump and this manifolds micron sensor. Okay, this micron sensor is before the system. Don't trust that I can prove it by simply closing off the evacuation and you can see it rise, because now the system is getting a pull on the micron gauge now granted we're still below a thousand but okay.

That just shows you, though, that just because it says below 500 on a manifold does not mean it's below 500, while we're waiting for the evacuation from point al that already changed the liquid line. Filter drier too. I swapped that out real quick. So once we get done see somewhat of a satisfactory evacuation, we're going to open that king valve up and let the refrigerant through now.

Even if I try with this, I will slowly pull the refrigerant out of that receiver. Even with this manifold on here. So you're not going to get a perfect evacuation when it's a pump down system and there's also some truth in the fact that there's still refrigerant vapor boiling out of that oil, I got a satisfactory evacuation again. This is not an accurate reading, but on my manifold with the low side open and both of these clothes I'm at 893, but it's going to be much higher in the system.

So anyways I'm going to go ahead and open up this king valve just a little bit and then we're gon na do a leak check on the system and see if we can out solve any problem now the system is still on, so it might turn on. It's okay, though all we got to do is turn it off. I just needed to see that pressure rise and then what I can do with these clothes. I can go ahead and open this up, open the high side and the low side.

Let it equalize out and then we'll do a leak check on the system get up my dryer that I installed not them and let's check inside here you know refrigerant leak. They check the rest of the coil Madame, so we're good we're gon na go ahead and put this guy back together and watch them down in town. There ended up being a pre-filter on this condenser and I have a light on the other side, and you can see it's nice and clean. You can see right through it, so we're gon na.

Let it run for a bit. It's very important that you don't clear. The sight glass under a super heavy load, so I leave a few bubbles in there every once in a while and then, as it comes down to temp, more than likely that's going to clear up and or I'll add some more refrigerant, but you could potentially overcharge This unit, so all that gas that I added already under a load, it's still kind of flashing, a little bit we're gon na. Let it come down in temp, get closer to box temp we're still running a little bit high on our head pressure, but not horrendous.

It's 83 degrees in here right now, so it's alright now. Another thing to think about too is these boxes really aren't meant to bring down the top and the bottom from a heavy heavy high temperature all at the same time. So if you actually want to speed it up I'll, usually shut off the cold rail, I put it into a defrost and we'll watch the bottom temperature drop like a brick now, okay, so it's at 51 right now, but they were both kind of coming down equally And I want to speed it up, so we'll watch the bottom drop even faster now and then we'll turn on the cold rail. When it's done so remember, these boxes are meant to maintain temperatures.

They're not meant to bring product temperature down. Therefore, when the whole box is at 80 degrees, it's gon na take forever. Unless you shut off one section and let you know the compressor do its job. Basically, so it's been about four minutes, it's already down to temp or getting lower on this one.

I need to turn the tent back up because I had ramped it down to 37, so I'm gon na go ahead and trim the top back on now set the timer right. It's a 10:00 a.m. and we'll watch the top from down the tent. Now too, and notice, the sight glass is running clear, so we're not gon na add any more gas as the box is satisfying, the expansion valves are calming down and there's plenty of refrigerant in the system.

Another thing to understand, too, is these kyrat units cuz. That's who manufactured this unit originally never came with sight glasses, so you got to be cautious, just dumping refrigerant in them. Now it has a receiver. It has expansion valve.

So you need to have a clear sight glass, but from the factory they never charge. These things to a clear sight, glass, a lot of manufacturers will do stuff like that they just put the right amount of refrigerant. In there we had a kyrat prep table that wasn't working properly and, like you guys saw in the video I found that the unit was low on charge and I found a refrigerant leak on the evaporator coil. So, like I always tell everybody, I'm always including the customer in the decision making process, I keep them in the loop the entire way through now.

This particular customer happens to give me a not-to-exceed value and I basically have free reign to make repairs so long as the repair is not gon na be wasteful, meaning you know they don't want me to make $ 1,500 or $ 2,000 worth of repairs and then Tell them they still have to replace the unit, because I it can't be fixed. You know to a certain extent so, but yeah they kind of give me free reign, but still, even though I have that free reign, I still keep the customer in the loop and I'm letting them know the entire time hey. This is what I'm doing. You know that way.

I try to eliminate the whole. Why is he staring at his phone he's just sitting there waiting while I'm pulling a vacuum or something you know, I try to keep moving, of course, but there's always gon na be some sort of dead time. When you've got nothing else to do and you're just waiting for something oftentimes, I might even just go outside and go, you know, put tools away in my van so that way, I'm just not standing there with the customer. You know anyways, but I'm always keeping them in the loop in this situation.

It was a simple repair. We had a refrigerant leak, we changed the dryer, we repaired the leak and they were back up and operational. Okay, I showed some things I showed myself pulling of evacuation through my manifold set right, that's not very popular, that's not very common. Nobody wants to do that, but there's a time and place to use your manifold set.

Of course, I'm gon na try to eliminate my manifold from my evacuation process whenever possible, but, like I mentioned in the video, this is a pump down system and on a pump down system. You're, never gon na achieve a perfect vacuum. Now, I'm not saying that on every single pump down system you I'm always going to use my manifold. No, if it's a big system, it's still gon na benefit me more to use.

You know a dedicated vacuum rig without a manifold, because it's still gon na speed up the process, but just understanding that you can't always be perfect. I think, in my opinion, is very important. Okay, you know, and in realizing that you're never gon na achieve that perfect vacuum on a pump down system is gon na save you hours and stress of pulling your hair out trying to figure out why this thing's not pulling down, or you know, let's say you Left a vacuum pump running on a system that was pumped down overnight. You might come back to find out that that system doesn't have refrigerant left in it, because I'm telling you you will pull through the compressor valves.

You will pull through the king valve on the receiver. You know solenoid valves, compressor, valves, receiver, valves they're, not a hundred percent leak free, okay, especially on older systems. All right now, I'm not giving everybody a free pass to just run it and not ever worry about a vacuum again, I'm just saying you got to stop and think about it and be practical. Okay, there's a time and place to go crazy with your vacuum rig.

There's a time and place to be practical in this situation, I felt that it wasn't really beneficial for me to pull out my entire giant vacuum rig. You know - and I just ran it with the manifold again explaining that on the manifold it does have a micron reading, but that micron reading can be misleading if you don't know how to interpret it. Okay, just because it goes below 500 microns on the manifold does not necessarily mean that it's 500 microns all throughout the system. Okay, you have to understand.

What's going on within your system all right, it's really not that difficult, guys, just take a step back and look at the big picture. I mean, I know, that's corny. I know I say it all the time, but seriously. That's all you got to do is just stop and think about it.

Instead of just you know, working through the motions, just stop and think about it for a minute. Okay, I really really appreciate you guys taking the time to watch these videos, especially those of you that make it to the end and watch my end credits in my recap. Okay, you guys are awesome. Thank you so much, please do me a favor share these videos.

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