This was a return visit to replace a bad compressor I previously diagnosed, the first part can be found here https://youtu.be/LwHrcnyRdNU
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00:00 TEASER
00:32 RECOVERY WITH MR45
01:32 SRS3 WIRELESS SCALE FEATURES
04:21 DOES IT HAVE A LEAK
05:21 NITROGEN LEAK TEST
06:05 LEAK SEARCH WITH DR82
07:44 COMPRESSOR SAFETY TIP
10:15 BRAZING TIP
12:36 AKWARD COMPRESSOR REMOVAL
12:54 CLEANING THE SYSTEM WITHOUT CHEMICALS
16:52 BRAZING MONTAGE
18:52 NITROGEN PRESSURE TEST WITH SMAN 480V
19:52 MY BAD IT HAS A LEAK
21:17 EVACUATION WITH VPX7 AND MG44
22:22 ON THE FLY OIL CHANGE WITH VPX7
24:36 WIRELESS VACUUM READING WITH JOB LINK APP
25:32 CONTACTOR INSPECTION
28:32 CHARGING TIME
35:00 COMPRESSOR TEAR DOWN
38:55 CLOSING WORDS

Pretty much brought my entire van up onto the roof. We've got a compressor, all the other stuff, i'm sure there'll be a few other things we need um. I do like to try to be as efficient as possible and take care of my stuff. I am that person that doesn't like my rope to be on the ground, so you see how i kind of roll it up and then i always try to leave a little bit down there.

So that way we can still rope things up and down out of the customer's way that way nobody's walking into it. Yeah i try to think smart. We try to make our job a little bit easier. We've got the whole entire acl opened up.

This is the grounded compressor right here, we're going to use filter dryers, to protect my s-man manifold, because i don't want to damage the internals and also to protect my recovery machine. I don't think this is a nasty burn, but we're still gon na put filter dryers on there just to protect it. Okay, we're putting core removal tools on there to speed up the process. Um we're gon na.

Do this one right now, so sometimes these things grab majority of the times. They don't so push it in there i'm pushing pressure on it. As i'm spinning it. You can feel it when it releases it's kind of bouncing yeah.

I don't know if it's going to grab it or not. Oh it grabbed it ooh, but look at that. It's dirty yeah, it's nasty! So, okay! Well, we got it on there. That's why we're gon na use dryers to protect because um this this one didn't come out and i had to blow it out and it came out black, so there's lots of carbon nastiness in there from the burnout.

All right, we are just about ready. We still need to purge um we're going to purge real, quick and then we'll zero out our scales, we're using the field piece wireless scale. The cool thing is, is it connects with the manifold and the handle for redundancy? In case you know, for bid, one of them was to be messed up or something or lose connection. You could still do both or you can choose to do one.

You know it's kind of cool, so we're all connected. We used two catch-all filter dryers to speed up the process and to protect my manifold and everything else. Normally people will put it just on the recovery machine, but in this situation we have one for each that way we're not bringing both low and high through one filter. We've got one filter for each because i have a feeling that filter is going to get plugged up with this uh burn that we have okay, because it's real um, you know dirty inside there, so we're going to go ahead and open.

This guy up looks like we got a leak right here, so open this guy up. Okay, so that's going into my manifold right, so we're zeroed out there now we're gon na come right here, we're going to loosen this guy up right! This is still closed and we're going to go ahead and open up the recovery machine to recover and then now it's going to purge right there. So when i open this right here, actually, let's open these two okay and then open this, it's gon na start purging. The air out looks like it's not quite purging what i want it to there.
It goes so now. It's purging the air out, not that we're going to reuse this refrigerant anyways, but we're going to try to keep air out of this system. Okay, so that's good. Get it nice and tight, make sure, everything's, nice and tight we're going to go ahead and zero out our handle and zero out our manifold.

That way, we know that we're not going to overfill the cylinder because we're going to be watching the entire time now. I will tell you that this cylinder is not going to be overfilled by what's in the system, but we still want to be careful and always monitor the the weight. So that way, you don't overfill, because if you overfill the tanks, you can lead to some big issues. So at this point, we're going to open this guy up, we've got the tank sitting in ice.

That way, we can speed up the process and we'll go ahead and turn on our machine now. So super easy on the field piece. Uh mr45 gives you the pressures and it has the soft start. So it slowly ramps up.

So there we go we're gon na. Let this guy run and then uh once it's done recovering we'll start opening the system up and getting the compressor replaced as we're recovering. This unit takes about 11 pounds of gas, i'm noticing that we've only done eight pounds of gas and we still are just about done right. So what i did was i shut off the flow right here, so i still have this open the machine shuts itself off because it has an auto stop it pulled down to negative 19.

Then automatically turned off. If you hit start stop one more time. It'll pull down even lower and then automatically turn off too, but that's just to get everything out now, um. What i'm gon na do.

We've got nitrogen here, so we're gon na go ahead and pressurize the system with nitrogen, with that remaining vapor in there to use as a tracer gas, so that we can do a quick leak search, we'll see if this unit's actually low on gas, like as it Has a leak or if maybe someone, let refrigerant out, not knowing what they were doing um, so this guy shut off again, so we're good to go. What we're gon na do is turn it over to purge and then hit start, and it's going to do everything it can to clear the refrigerant out of the machine and out of the hoses as much as possible. So it's just pumping it into that tank and then we're going to pressurize this guy with nitrogen and do a quick leak search on it. We are pressurizing with nitrogen.

Now i pulled the filter dryers off, so i didn't back push any of the stuff we pulled out of the system back into it right, um and we're just putting nitrogen in uh on both sides. We're gon na get it to about probably 150 psi and then we're going to do a leak search on this guy and see what we can figure out all right, um notice. I wanted to point something out when i was doing my recovery. I took off the quarter, inch process hose and i went with a 3 8 process hose that has quarter inch ends on it and that will speed up the recovery.
And then i also so i went with a 3 8 hose from here to the machine and then a 3 8 hose from the machine to the tank, and then you have two individual quarter inch hoses. Now it go even faster. If i put if i had more 3 8 hoses, but i don't so all right - we've got field pieces. Uh, dr82 leak detector right here.

Okay, this is an infrared leak. Detector, um digital display on it is awesome. Uh we're gon na go ahead and put it in turbo mode, because i want the max sensitivity. You got to be careful, though, in turbo mode, because it can uh really pick up some nuisance stuff.

So if you're getting nuisance, then switch it down to a lower setting we're going to do a quick leak search on this guy. We're going to start right at this compressor, because it seems that there might be a little bit of oil in that fusite plug. So we're going to put this guy right here and the cool thing about the field piece leak detector is, it has a lighted tip, so you can either look at the display right here or you can look at the tip. You can see that the display says refrigerant leak right there and it's showing a level and then the lighted tip is also showing a leak.

So it's leaking at the fusite little connection right there. So you got to be very careful when you're um, when you're uh pulling these plugs off because they can blow out uh and in this situation the the direction or the short. I bet you happened right at the fuselage terminal um. Maybe we can autopsy this compressor when we're done, but uh, i'm pretty confident.

That's gon na be our leak. We're gon na do a quick leak search on the rest of the system, but we definitely are leaking right in here. Maybe we'll get some uh soap bubbles. Some big blue on there we're gon na spray this guy down.

Now we do have power turned off we're using a big blue leak. Detector. This stuff is awesome spray it on oops, see that's what you don't want. You don't want bubbles, okay, because that will give you a false reading, give it a couple: squirts get a steady stream and then spray it on there, nice and good all right, i'm being very careful not to position my face in front of the fusei terminals.

Okay, because they can blow out at any given moment, i'm thinking that from the looks of it it's on this terminal and i'm gon na get the camera in there. But i got ta be careful not to get my face in there because we don't want it to pop now. There is very small bubbles i got ta see if i can get the camera to show them and it's gon na be hard to pick up on camera, but i can actually see them coming out and you can see a train of them coming down right around The bottom of this right here and they're sliding down so you're gon na be very careful but they're there. So it's a very, very small leak, but it would totally make sense as to why there was oil right there.
So it's a small one though so you've got to always pay attention. You know - and you know, like i'm doing a repair on this. We quoted this as just a compressor replacement, but we have a little wiggle room in our quote, but we really didn't picture or plan to do a leak repair, so we're not finding anything else. As of yet we're running the field piece leak detector.

So this is the third stage, so it's the bottom of this side and this side it's this dryer right here. Look at this one! The side glass doesn't mean anything. This just means someone probably only had this sight: glass uh, it's a csg sight, glass, dryer combo! That's probably all they had the last time. Someone did a repair on this um, but this is absolutely not needed.

Looks like we got some crazy, brazing skills, but it's not leaking, so it is what it is um, but this is the dryer we're gon na be replacing so we're going to get started on this guy we're going to sand up the compressor. It's going to be a direct swap um. This one right here is the new replacement, compressor and yeah. We just got a lot of stuff going on all right.

We're going to light this guy, put my rosebud tip on and we've got nitrogen flowing through we're going to go ahead and unsweat these terminals. Real quick shouldn't. Take much there's one always paying attention because there's smoke coming out because of the nitrogen and the heat you want to make sure that's not going into the unit because with the unit not on they use this. For the air balance for the makeup air, the building is going to be kind of negative, so it could be filling the building up with smoke.

So you always want to pay attention to that. There we go there. We are just kind of bend it away and let it cool because sometimes it'll touch and then it'll weld itself back. Looking good.

Okay, we're good on that. Now we're gon na go get the txv cut out, start prepping this compressor for replacement. Now we don't know what caused this compressor to go bad. So you know it's it's one of those things we're gon na go ahead and uh change, the txv out of precaution and then we'll change the contact or put a new dryer start it up and have to troubleshoot further to see what happens.

I'm disconnecting the pressure control at the moment, so back in here are some plugs for the pressure control. If i undo those boom, then the pressure control is loose. Actually, i don't even know if i need to disconnect the pressure control. To be honest with you.

No, i actually don't i'll just leave it like that. That way, i can move it around we'll get the the compressor in and then figure everything else out after that. We do need to get this crankcase heater off down here, though, cutting this, because we're gon na end up putting a suction line, filter dryer right there, so it's also gon na aid in getting the compressor out and make the whole job easier. So this guy's a little heavy kind of tricky, but we'll get it there we go.
I almost forgot that before we go any further, i want to cut the dryer out of the system and we're going to purge the entire system with nitrogen, with the txv out. The compressor out in the dryer out to try to get any nastiness out of the system, so i don't use acid, neutralizers or flush or anything like that. I'm just going to use dry, nitrogen to purge the system and then we're going to put two really good. Hh core dryers from spoiling now with the hh core dryers from spoiling.

They have a high wax removal. The theory is, is that with the acid? Well, if there's a burnout, the theory is that the the the oil and the the refrigerant becomes acidic and potentially depending on the damage in the compressor. It can start eating away at the the wax or the plastic on the windings of the compressor, and so the hh dryer is going to be there to capture any of that stuff and it has a high wax removal. So we're going to be going in with an oversized sporland 16 cubic inch dryer to replace that little guy all right got nitrogen tank hooked up, and i have this fitting from a little portable tank setup that i have.

But it has a perfect little guy right here to blow the system out and a little valve, so we're just going to go through and blast the system putting a towel on the other end to see if we catch anything that comes out. So i put a white towel there, so i can see if i capture anything okay go ahead and give it a couple bursts, keep going, let it out stop keep going just boom boom boom. Now, what i'm doing here is i'm building up pressure and just going off and on off and on off and on to kind of build up back pressure, so it scrubs the walls nothing's coming out. Okay, we're good on that now i want you to do the liquid line going back.

Okay, so liquid line should be coming out of here. Okay, go ahead, keep going just on off on off; leave it on okay, we're good, okay, nothing's, really coming out um we're gon na push through the condenser real quick, get on the discharge line and we're gon na push through the condenser. Now, from the discharge line, ready barely just leave it on nothing. Let me see that side here you go anything coming out, yeah, nothing bad! I think we're good we're not getting a bunch of nasty oil or anything like that out, so we're gon na go and proceed with putting the compressor back in the system now um.

But it's important that we purge the system like that to try to prevent anything from clogging up the filter, dryer unnecessarily right uh. This doesn't seem like a really really bad burnout, so i think we're gon na be okay notice that i took the screwdriver and put it up in here for lifting it helps give you better leverage lifting the compressor, okay, we'll get that guy bolted in and then We'll start fitting all the pipes in there and getting everything connected back in okay, so we're purging with nitrogen right now and we're going to use the rosebud for the big joints and then we'll switch to the zero for the small joints. So so all right, we are done brazing everything's in we're going to do a pressure test on the system, so we're going to go ahead and go to the manifold right here. You hit tightness test.
It takes you to this screen right here, go ahead and turn on the pressure we're going to build it up. Uh, i don't have schraders or anything in here. Just because we're just doing a tightness test, then we're gon na release it and doing it proper, evacuation and stuff. So we'll uh we'll get all that stuff done here in a minute, so we're gon na.

Let it build up to about 150. Psi is where i'm going to stop, and then this will start a timer, and then we can watch it uh how much it changes if it does at all all right. We got it to about 150 psi. 151.

Now you want to let it sit for about five minutes, let the system stabilize out okay and then hit start, because you are going to see a deviate as the system's kind of stabilizing, because you've got the sun hitting the condenser, it's shady in the evaporator. So you want to just let it sit and uh equalize out and we're not holding our pressure test and i actually have a leak right here. It's like i missed a spot. This is why we do a pressure test.

So that way we can see if there's anything going on there, there's like one spot where it didn't take, probably because there was oil on this line, so it's probably a little difficult but yeah it's right. I can see it. It's probably hard for you guys to see if there's right there there's a tiny pinhole so we're gon na. Let the nitrogen out we're gon na braise that up real, quick and then do another pressure test.

All right got to put back on or sweat just heated. It up seems fine, we're doing another pressure test to see if it holds all right. It's stabilized out and i hit enter to start it and it starts the timer. So it's been running for one minute so far we have no pressure change now we're gon na.

Let it keep running, but it's important too, that we keep the high and the low side open and the process port closed. That way. If there's a pressure, change on the low side or the high side, we'll see it reflected on both right and this system doesn't have solenoid valves, but if it had solenoid valves, that's where that would really come in handy, but yeah we're just going to let it Keep running we're just kind of getting the vacuum rig set up for evacuation once we hopefully pass the pressure test. I'm very satisfied with this been running five minutes and 40 seconds.

We've changed. 0.1 psi. We've dropped. I'm not concerned about that at all.
So we're going to go ahead and get the vacuum rig set up. The micro engage, set up and get vacuuming on this guy. All right. We're going to start with the uh gas ballast open right turn it on, and you can tell the gas ballast is open because it flashes inside here with the light, so we're gon na go ahead and run it with the gas ballast open until we get to About i don't know two thousand fifteen hundred microns on the micron gauge and then we'll shut the gas ballast same thing as the recovery machine.

This thing has a slow ramp up, so you're able to start it on. You know you don't have to have a specific size, extension cord or anything like that, and this is the vpx7. So this is the 10cfm vacuum pump right now, so we're going to let it run for a bit. Let the microns drop on the micron gauge and we are using the mg 44 field piece micro gauge.

So once we see that they get below i'd, say 1500 we'll go ahead and close the gas ballast and then let the machine do all the work all right. We just hit uh 1400 microns, 1300 microns, so just come on down here, close off the gas ballast and uh just let it run for a bit. Okay. At this point, my vacuum's kind of stalling out, so we're going to do an oil change.

The cool thing about this pump is you: have an on-the-fly oil change, so just open this up grab your full clean oil right here, close this guy pour the oil in there you go on the fly, oil change didn't lose our vacuum or anything all is good. We'll dispose of this oil right here and then we just fill this guy up for the next time and have it sitting right there all right, um i sent someone to go, get a contactor. This contactor actually looks pretty bad inside pretty burnt up in there, but we'll open it up when we pull it out. So we're going to change that out.

We're still pulling the vacuum right now it's about 546 microns we're going to let it keep running suction line. Filter dryer hh core. So that's the high wax removal it's made for burnouts basically, and we have an hh core 16 cubic inch so before they had a five cubic inch. So we're going massively oversized we'll get something to screw that guy in and secure it we're gon na start putting the panels on and just kind of cleaning up our messes.

We got all kinds of stuff up here so definitely got to clean up we're just trying to make best use of our time, so we're still running in a vacuum. Um, i'm uh. What i ended up doing was because i got two hose set up here. I ended up valving this one off, so you see this one's closed and the micron level did rise now.

The reason why it was lower was because this was getting pull from the hose versus being in the system, but now that i close this off, this is the furthest point in the system. So the micron gauge is now getting a true reading and it's only pulling from the discharge line. You see, so this is actually the best way to do it. I do an initial pull with two hoses.
Then i valve one off and then finish the vacuum with just one hose so we're currently at 574 microns. I have it isolated and the other compressors are on that way. The customer can get some cooling in there. I went ahead and uh secured the liquid line.

Filter dryer put the panel on and we're just you know, waiting for the vacuum. I'm probably going to take a lunch right now. While this is all happening, i'm just getting back from lunch and uh. The cool thing is, i can pull it up on the job link app the entire time.

I was eating my lunch out in my van. I was watching the evacuation all together, i was uh i'd, say 65 70 feet away from the ac unit and i had full connection the entire time so from the looks of it, our evacuation is looking to be good, so we're going to go over there and Uh, do our decay test now all right we're going to go ahead and valve it off. We valved off right here so now we're just going to do our decay test. So we pulled down well below 500.

um. I say we give it about 10 minutes and we don't want to see it go above. A thousand microns is where i'd be happy with, but i think we're gon na be okay. You can also do a bar graph on the app, so you can just watch it as it's rising uh we're also changing the contactor as we speak.

Getting that replaced we'll pull apart the other one and show you the insides of it, because it was pretty bad. It's all about diving into things to try to figure out why they failed. Look at the points on that contact or on those contacts i should say um. I wouldn't be the least bit surprised if this is the cause of the grounded out compressor.

Bad electrical connections lead to heat, lead to issues within the compressor, low voltage, voltage drop, um yeah, that's not good, so uh. Let's see this guy had auto powered off. So let's turn this back on real quick, it's dropping! So it's taking a second but yeah. We're still good it's it's slowly rising, but if it was a leak i would expect to see it be a direct rise, it's natural for it to continue to rise, but it should kind of stabilize out.

You can see we're actually kind of dropping down right now. 791., so we're going to call this good on the vacuum, we're going to start taking that off, but you always got to dig into these things when, when you're changing compressors, especially when you have compressors that are shorted to ground, you got to figure out why? Okay - and i think this contactor was the reason why i think this could have been prevented. Had we done proper preventative maintenance, we could have been doing voltage drop tests across this contactor um. I can tell you too, the filters on this unit are plugged.

I mean it's the things like this. You know the lack of preventative maintenance. Now, at the same time i get it. You know.

Restaurants are really struggling right now to find employees to make money. So it's a struggle to do pm service too, but you know this is the kind of stuff that happens. This is an r22 compressor we're putting our 22 back in. This is expensive before we're gon na use the manifold to charge okay, but before we hook anything up, we're gon na go ahead and do an evacuation on the manifold and then we'll open it up to the system.
So i'm pulling on just the process hose then we'll go ahead and open these guys up open this guy up we're dropping down. You can see it's dropping in microns, because there is a micron gauge in here. It's not best practice to pull through the manifold, but sometimes you have to in certain situations and this one i had plenty of room and i was able to use the separate hoses to be able to pull through it. So we are ready to open to the system right now: okay, slowly rising a little bit, that's okay, because i think our system was at like 900 or something like that.

Um we're just going to let it pull down to get to where the system level is and then we're going to get ready to charge this guy. We are going to add refrigerant now, so i've got the job link app in the background and that black bar is just from my phone. It's weird and it reads the same thing so we're going to zero this out and then zero this out. Okay, we're zeroed out we're gon na open up the process hose which is already open.

We're gon na purge to right here: okay, we're good and we're gon na go open the high side and charge to the high side we're gon na charge to 11 pounds. I think it's eight ounces. I think we're gon na check right now, but you can see we're adding refrigerant, so we're doing good so far, so we're just gon na give it some time all right. We've got about five pounds of gas in there um.

You always want to wait until you're in positive pressure to take off the micron gauge, so that way, uh you don't introduce any oxygen or any outside air moisture into the system. So micro engage is off uh. We're just about done to the point that we're gon na have to turn it on and charge the rest, and i don't think we're gon na have enough in this cylinder, so we're gon na have to go grab another cylinder. Okay, it is uh about that time.

Um, i also sent a technician to get a new molded plug because it doesn't look the greatest on the inside and i'll show it to you guys, but i think we're gon na be able to start it up for now. So everything's ready everything's closed, we'll have to charge the rest of the refrigerant to the 11 pounds. Eight ounces once we get it going power's on we're gon na have to put it into test mode to finish charging so to put it into test mode. We're gon na hit shift unit test and it's gon na change from a decimal to c01.

I'm gon na change it to c11 hold it down when the decimal appears it'll turn on, and then we got ta charge add refrigerant, so it doesn't go off on low pressure and we're just gon na add to the 11 pounds. Eight ounces. I don't think i'm gon na have enough in this cylinder, so we're probably gon na have to use my other cylinder so we'll just add it until we get there so park's doing good cold suction line, but that's also because we're adding refrigerant right here, discharge, line's Hot, we might just make it wow, it's gon na be really close. It's just running out we're at 10 pounds 15 ounces literally going to have to add a couple ounces, maybe from the other cylinder, that's kind of funny all right at this point.
What we're going to do is we're going to hit hold okay, we're going to hold that weight and the field piece app is going to allow me to put the new cylinder on there keeping that weight. So i don't have to try to do the zeroing out with the new cylinder or do the math. I have the new thing on there. Now it only works within the field piece app.

So you see this now says negative, nine, whatever okay, so we want to purge okay, we're purged, it's all the way up to there and then we hit continue and i want to continue boom. So now we keep adding gas. I really dig that about the field piece out and we never lost our weight. Oh i guess i got ta open this guy there we go.

Look at that. That is awesome. I really like that about their app. So now we just add it to the eight ounces: 11 pounds, eight ounces and we're good this guy's fully charged we're gon na.

Let it operate now. I went ahead and switched over to my probes for ease of use and we've got a 20 degree. Temperature split across the condenser about 180 000 btus delivered capacity. R22 super heats a little bit on the low side, compressor superheats about 17 degrees, i'd like to see that a little bit higher but we'll give it some time.

Sub cooling is about 11 degrees, um everything's. Looking good, i'm not seeing any problems here so we're running a 40 degree. Evaporator temperature degree 105 degree saturation temperature for the condenser. This guy's looking good.

So we're going to go ahead and take the probes off um we're going to mark we'll check the pressure drop and we'll mark it on the dryer for the next guy, so that we know what the pressure drop is across the dryer and then we'll just keep An eye on it and we're still waiting for my guy to come back with this plug we're going to change this out too, but yeah so far. Everything's, looking great already got a pressure probe on the top of the suction filter, dryer and one on the bottom right here it looks like we're just going to call it one psi: pressure drop 69.1 and 70.7, so we're gon na call it a one. Psi. Pressure drop and then we'll just monitor it.

The next time we come out my chicken scratch. I can't write worth anything, but one psi drop. That's close enough for my for me i'll be able to understand it and nobody else will. But i mean it's close.
It's it's marginal, but yeah we're looking good man all right. We shut it off to do the little molex connector. We got a new one on there, we're just wiring it in right now to the contactor and i'm going to go ahead and leak check. My brace joints real quick.

I don't anticipate any problems because we passed a pressure test and an evacuation test, but just to be safe, we'll go over them, not seeing any issues again using the dr82, and you know what i need to change the sensitivity over to turbo because that's the most Sensitive but again you just need to be careful because it'll pick up leaks, you don't want to find sometimes nothing there. So i already checked the dryer so we'll come over here, oh yeah and i couldn't deal with it. I i changed the filters too. Look at these things they were plugged.

I i was just there's no way they're, just gon na end up ruining another compressor, so we went ahead and uh threw some new filters in the unit. The filters weren't part of my quote, but i'll just make sure they understand it's gon na - have to be done because they just lose another compressor. All right, yeah, i'm not seeing any problems here, so we're all connected everything's good. All right.

We are back today we're just gon na do a test on this system. It's been running, um, we're doing a pressure drop test again across the dryer, the suction line, filter, dryer, 70.6 and 71.. So it looks like it's still one psi drop, which is what it was the other day and then i also have temperature clamps across the liquid line. Filter dryer.

So let's just call it 90 and 91. So we have about a 1 degree. Temperature drop across the filter dryer right here, so that's good, so we just wanted to see if we were plugging up the dryers um. This is all broken down now this is uh.

Is rusting really fast so got to kind of keep that in mind, but we do have some pretty good, copper plating going on right down in here right in here again, it's kind of hard to tell with the rest um the scroll plates definitely had some uh Flooded starts because you can see by the little tooling marks that i've been informed. My buddy trevor matthews is the one that told me about that. So we know we've had flooded start issues. This was a grounded compressor.

You can clearly see the motor windings are destroyed. Okay, this whole thing was black. There was plenty of oil in the compressor, that's all the oil that i pulled out of it, so there was more than enough oil in there. So that's not the problem.

The floating seal definitely has been overheating that this whole thing has been overheating and i'm gon na two things number one. This is broken. I don't know the exact name of this. It goes right below the scroll assembly.

There was a piece of it down in the windings and if you look at this closely, it kind of looks like it's been shorting out and it's definitely got caught in there. But that to me looks like it was shorting out because it looks like it's melted like it's molten, that's re, a re-affixed itself, and that was down in the bottom of the compressor. This was all still back up in the top um this piece. I can't remember if this one was down on the bottom too.
I think it was. I think this one was down in the bottom, but i will tell you this. Customer is not good at doing preventative maintenance. They run dirty condensers all the time, so overheating issues for sure flooded, start issues.

It did have a crankcase heater, so i don't know why and the crankcase heater was working but yeah. This is definitely a catastrophic failure to say the least. I mean look at those windings they're just disintegrated, but i don't see any issues with the bearings. Everything looks fine up in here.

You know some copper plating going on down in here it's kind of hard to see, but there is a little bit in there. Oh yeah, it's nice and oily still a little bit. That's interesting. I mean an interesting breakdown, but it wasn't a lack of oil um.

I thought it was just gon na be because it was. It didn't, seem like a very nasty burn. At least it didn't get throughout the system, but it definitely i mean that oil is pure pure black and it's kind of thick too. It's nasty so yeah this guy's toast for sure, but it's always cool to cut these things open to kind of figure out.

You know what happened. The idea of seeing copper plating happening makes you know that you had moisture and acids in the system, slowly breaking the system down. It's also interesting too. I believe this is like an oil slinger or something right here and uh.

It is disintegrated. So that's intriguing and i don't know if it's because of the cleaner. I don't think it's because the cleaner that i used um i'll, have to look at my video footage and see if it was disintegrated before i dunked it in the cleaner but yeah. It's just like flaking off it's really interesting, but yeah.

We definitely had an acid situation in this one. So uh, you know we'll have to go back and check pressure drops across the filters and do an acid test if the customer allows us to do it, but that's it for this. One compressor changeouts are long, tedious jobs and if you don't follow all the proper uh recommended practices, if you don't do everything in order, it leads to it just taking even longer and or not being done correctly. Okay, um, you always want to take your time.

You always want to protect your tools. Uh like when i started to recover the gas i knew it was burnt. I usually i don't always put filter dryers when i'm recovering gas. As long as i know it's good right, but especially on the systems that are bad.

I'm gon na put dryers to protect my equipment. Okay, having the right tools on these jobs is what makes them go smoother right and the fieldpiece products that i was using in here are worth protecting, especially the recovery machine when i'm recovering that nasty refrigerant. So put two spoiling catch-alls one on the liquid one on the suction or one on the discharge, one in the suction, and that way i get full flow through the system, i'm not um. Taking any.
You know i'm not slowing it down making restrictions by using the filter, dryers right, because i put one on each side instead of just putting one where both the quarter inch lines from the high and the low side go into one dryer, i put one on each Line right and again, it's just about making everything go smoother using large diameter hoses, letting the recovery machine, the mr45 do what it's supposed to do at its full flow rates. Okay, anytime, you can use larger diameter hoses with your equipment when you're doing recoveries or even evacuations. It's going to put less, wear and tear on your equipment and it's going to make the process go a lot faster, okay, same thing, with reducing the discharge pressure on the recovery machine by immersing the tank, the recovery tank in ice water that we were keeping the Condensing temperature down of the refrigerant, thus putting less, wear and tear on the machine. Okay, so having those tools and treating them right is so important because those tools you know if, if i go to do a job tomorrow and my recovery machine's, not working, that's an inconvenience to me.

If i can do anything to prevent that from happening, then the same goes for my meters, my drills, all my different stuff right, the more you take care of it, the better it's going to take care of you in the long run, okay and having the right Tools for the job makes it go so much smoother, okay, but then also understand something when we're working with all these fancy: digital tools and digital recovery machines and digital gauges and smart probes. The job link probes, all these different things, it's so important to understand how they work and how to know when there's a problem, because there's things that we can do when we're putting let's say we're using the joblink probes right, let's say you turn on the or You you put the joblink probes on the system before you zero out the joblink probes. Well, depending on whether or not the last place you used them was higher or lower elevation than where you're at now. There might be a pressure change in between the two and so then the probes might not work the same because the probes are affected by atmospheric pressure.

Okay, so as you move around, you know, you need to make sure you understand how your tools work, and so, whenever you're, using the job link, probes or any smart probes for that matter, digital gauges, too. You want to make sure you turn them on and zero them out at atmospheric pressure before you apply them to the system, because if you know they're reading three four psi off and i throw them on the system and i'm trying to charge a critically charged system. Well, we could have some problems if we're you know using uh the the probes themselves or the manifold itself to give us accurate readings, and it's not accurate okay. So we have to know how to use our tools and how to interpolate the data and know when there's something wrong.
Okay, so you know we have to make sure that we're following all those steps um this particular system. I was surprised the customer went with it, but then again, i kind of understood that they wanted to fix it because they can't get new units right now, it's taking forever, so they decided to go with it and for all the comments. Yes, i still use r22. Okay, the customer is a hundred percent.

Okay with that, i'm not going to try to talk them out of using r22. If that's what they want and i give them the options and they fully understand that it could be potentially save them a little bit of money in the short term if they go to an alternative refrigerant. But in the long term they may run into some issues because there's capacity loss, there's considerations you have to think about when you're changing over to alternative refrigerants and different things like that. So i give my customer the options and they choose to go with r22 refrigerant right, so we're going to try to give them the best bang for their buck.

They spent a lot of money making this repair and i want to make sure that this system is going to last. So i'm looking at everything i went back and did a pressure drop test across both the dryers uh check, the temperature on the liquid line, filter, dryer and then i'm going to try to talk my customer into. Let me go back and doing an oil test right to be able to test for any acids in the system and possibly changing the dryers again, it's so important that we try to keep up on these things. Now.

I am not a fan of using additives. Um! You know acid, neutralizers and different things like that in the system, because i just don't know what happens to those chemicals that you're putting in there right and if you ask the manufacturers, not the oe or not the manufacturer of the neutralizer. But if you ask the manufacturer of the copeland compressor, if they recommend using an additive in their compressor to neutralize acids, they're gon na say no okay, they don't recommend that they recommend. The only thing that goes in the system is what came in the system.

Okay, refrigerant and refrigerant oil, the oil that belongs in there and that's pretty much all that's supposed to be in there. So i personally don't use neutralizers or any of that stuff. I don't use flush or anything. Okay.

I just go naturally with what we have in there and we purge the system with nitrogen. I went ahead and changed the txv and the contactor, and i kind of wanted to talk about that too um. When you have a compressor failure, you need to try to figure out why it went bad now. Obviously, when the compressor is bad, you have no way of knowing right, there's not a whole lot.
You can do. You can inspect a few things like the contactor. In this case i kind of had a plan on changing the contactor, and i went back with the txv. Also we don't know what caused that compressor to go bad.

It could have been a broken belt because i told you there was a slight discoloration on the whole body of the compressor like it had been flooding back. So i know this customer doesn't do preventative maintenance, so it could have been uh belts being broken or belts. Being loose and the system flooding back, that could have had something to do with it. Something broke that that piece inside the compressor.

What it was. I don't know: okay um, so we do our best. So in this situation, because it's it's not a system, i can pump down or anything i change. The txv out of precaution was planning on changing the contactor and good thing.

I did because it was trashed right and then, as we were assembling it, we saw that the molex plug for the fuselage connection had a lot of melting inside of it and it wasn't making a good connection so where the the grounded compressor actually came from is Hard to say, because i think we had two things going on here - we had a bad contactor. We had an overheated compressor, we had a poor, molex connector, but you know i don't know which one caused, which or if it was just a combination of multiple things. Okay, something obviously broke the pieces on the inside of that compressor too, and i don't think that would have happened from the compressor grounding out. I think that that piece might have been what went down there.

It's hard to say. You know that piece might have touched. The windings and rubbed for long enough that it shorted out it's it's hard to say exactly what happened, but i try my best. I give the customer the information right and with the right tools, i'm able to give them accurate, valid information.

Okay, so it's so important that we invest in ourselves and invest in good high quality tools that work for us and that work for the jobs we're trying to do. Okay. I really really appreciate you guys making it to the end of the video as usual. If you guys haven't already, please consider checking out my website, hvacr videos.com uh, please make sure you're subscribed to the channel.

If you aren't already make sure uh, please interact with the channel leave a comment. Leave some feedback just anything to let youtube know that you're watching the video okay again, i really really appreciate you guys and we will catch you on the next one. Okay.

7 thoughts on “Kitchen ac breaker is tripped part 2”
  1. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Mike B. says:

    As always Chris, your videos are informative and educational. You help to remind us what it means to be a good technician.

  2. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Mike B. says:

    As always Chris, your videos are informative and educational. You help to remind us what it means to be a good technician. Service area Barrhaven??

  3. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Supreme Ruler of the World says:

    love the 80's porn music during the montage.
    ps: when you are changing out basically everything anyways would it not be cheaper for the customer to just drop in 407a for that stage? the customer is not going to notice a couple percent capacity loss.

  4. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Drake Tamer says:

    My friend's dishwasher keeps tripping a breaker when the latch is actuated to open or close the door. My theory is that when the panel had been taken off for service at some point, it had damaged/broken the watertight seal, and this let steam into this control board or something. The kicker is that the washer is popping either a completely separate breaker than the one it's on, or the entire house mains. They know it's the washer because it's repeatable. Fun stuff.

  5. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Mohammad Nassiri says:

    I’m PMA technician but I always like to watch your videos I like your explanation, I do watch your videos from 2 different account

  6. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars jeff allen says:

    First 🤲🏽

  7. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Dylan Jenks says:

    I’m so happy idk why but I love watching your videos with the Lennox units

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