Okay, so last night I had an overtime service call in the middle of the night that they had water pouring down in the restrooms. What I found when I got here was both of these units right here, where I stopped this one right here. A c7 serves their office, slash kitchen, and this one is the main kitchen AC. So last night what I did was I went ahead and shut the units down just pulled the drains like that.

So that way it could drain onto the roof, didn't overflow and came back today. I didn't get any video last night, but I literally just came out, saw they were iced up, shut him down, and that was it so we're gon na go through everything. Today it was, I stopped like it was low on refrigerant half the coil was iced up, we'll find out a little bit more I'll, go through these units thoroughly and figure out exactly what's going on. There are older units, but they're in decent shape.

I mean they're, not gon na change it or anything so I'll go through and figure out. What's going on and we'll see if we can't get some good video out of this one first impressions, there's oil on these lines. Right here haven't even looked for a leak. Yet but I could see visible oil looks like it's around that core max core someone's got a service T on the core max, probably because it was leaking we'll see that's first impressions.

I don't even turn the unit on, but so what I'm gon na do, because I have visible oil, I'm not gon na spend hours, but I'm gon na quickly leak check all in this area. Before I take the caps off because it could be something as simple as a rubber o-ring missing out of one of these caps and by the time I put my gauges on it, you might not be able to see it anymore. So before I take the caps off, I'm gon na quickly check to see if there's any quickly, so I'm not gon na do the whole system because I'd rather not again, I don't know for sure that this unit has a leak that oil could just be from Someone taking their gauges off and just over spray, so I'm not gon na go leak check this whole system on a hunch that it might be short and waste two hours to find out. It's just got a bad first stage compressor.

You know what I'm saying so, I'm gon na just do a quick leak check with my electronic on this stuff right here. Also another note: I didn't catch it when I was filming the last clip, so we got a run cat band to here going a little crazy with the condenser fan motors. It's really not that hard to go ahead and pull this capacitor into the electrical box. It's only an extra 18 inches and it looks like there's plenty of wire, so we'll fix that okay, so leak detector out we're just gon na.

Do it quick and run by these guys, nothing jumping out at me. Nothing jumping out. Okay, we're gon na! Do a quick test to see if my Oh rings in there. This is whenever I'm curious, that my leak detectors working.

Stick it near traitorous traitors always leaked. So we know the leak detectors, working I'll move with the caps back on and we're gon na spray. Some soap bubbles on those fittings, real, quick just to make sure there's not a really really small one, that the leaks texture won't pick up. That's interesting! That cap was loose so we'll see a little tip here.

I'm using big blue. I prefer big blue. You know it's a great formula: they have other leak detectors in a spray bottle. They work, you know it's one could argue they work just the same, I'm just a fan of big blue but anyways on those things on the top right.

There there's two different methods of screen: there's the the fan spray, where it sprays it everywhere and then there's a steady stream when you're using the micro leak detector like this, you want a steady stream and you want to just gently: lay it on there. You don't want to spray bubbles on there and I'll see if I can show you a difference on the camera. So this is a steady. This is the spray and you see how it comes out all bubbly.

Now you can still see a leak, but it's harder because there's already bubbles for me versus, if you turn it the the top around and spray that just the stream see how even that is. It just helps to find leaks a little bit better. That's just a little simple tip be very generous with this stuff I'll be surprised. You know, honestly.

Sometimes this stuff will find leaks that the electronic won't find stuff's, pretty amazing and, as I'm sure, you've all seen, don't forget to check the ends of the pressure control wires. You will find links there, so if this pressure control - sometimes it's very, very rare - that this happens, but if this pressure control was leaking internally in here, sometimes this top part can be sealed and it will actually go on the inside of the jacket of the wire. So if you follow the wires back to the wiring or to the terminations, sometimes you'll find the leak right there believe it or not. It's a if you haven't seen it it'll blow your mind when you do see it.

I wish I had video when I found it. I've only found it two times but anyways I'm gon na let this set and do it. Okay, so there's definitely very very small bubbles that popped up right on the back of this guy. I don't think I can get the camera to focus where you guys go there.

You go it's kind of hard to see, but there's a very small bubbles right on the back and then also right down on here. This Schrader is leaking really good. This one was tight, but this one right here is also leaking and this one was loose so we're gon na redo. This fitting we're gon na put new pressure, controls and we'll go ahead and do them all.

But I'm gon na go ahead and finish diagnosed in the system now waiting to go put my gauges on this unit and the first stage actually didn't even have any gas in it. So the second stage is low, but the first stage didn't have gas. So I just put a little refrigerant in the first stage and right off the bat, which is very strange. I already see the leak.

It's got a crack discharge line that bad boy there's a big one. It's a real big boy, so I'm not even gon na diagnose this because I know we've got a leak on this. I'm gon na finish leak check in the second stage, just to make sure when I say diagnosed, I'm not even going to put my gauges and analyze everything right now, because I know that it's low on the second stage and we definitely know the first stage - was Out so I'm gon na finish leak checking the second stage to see if there's any other leaks that I can find and if not then we'll just quote to come in and repair this and change the pressure controls and get it going all together. This is their main kitchen a/c.

The first stage was completely out of gas that has a giant crack on the discharge line. The second stage was low on charge. It has leaks coming from the Schrader ports and from the high pressure control, so we're gon na submit some quotes and we'll get this unit operational and then next, I'm gon na look at this guy, because this was the other one that was ice tub okay. So this is the smaller a/c boy.

In 2004 his compressors were giant. Look at that thing, thing's huge! It's 250 7,000 BTU compressor! It's not that big anyways! I don't see any obvious oil or anything like that. So we're gon na go ahead and put normal gauges on this unit and go through the system and see what happens this bad boy on and somethin ain't right, blower assembly is going crazy or something vibrating to all. He'll endure blower section, there's nothing stuck in the wheel, but look at that motor.

It's making it a steady spot to where you guys can see this. The thing is Motors jumping because this bracket is busted on the back, but that's not the problem. I mean that's a symptom of the problem. First off: let's pull this belt, pull this belt off real, quick, okay belts off; let's inspect that belt, that so the belts, bad, but again symptom of the problem.

Why is the belt bad belts? Don't do that with normal wear and tear that's the sign of a pulley issue, the pulleys glaze really good. This is hard that pulleys bad and that belt is getting stuck in the pulley. So what I'm gon na do is put another belt on there and see what it does here: okay, no more of the jumping, but that still doesn't mean that the pulley is not going to do the same thing to that belt. So we've got to change that pulley for sure, but I still want to investigate some more so I'm gon na turn the unit on and see if it still vibrates with that other belts on there.

Okay, now it doesn't vibrate anymore, but there's still something wrong again. All those are symptoms of a problem. You don't just change a belt and walk away. You look at why the belt failed.

You don't just you know, change the motor bracket and not pay attention as to why a motor bracket broke, because they don't just break there's. Usually something that causes them so from what I understand right now. The root cause is that motor sheave or motor pulley. So I'm going to turn the indoor blower on and I motors still rocking definitely but it's not gon na pop.

Oh pop, Oh boom, you know banging anymore, so I went ahead and jumped everything out. R2G get the fan running and then our two white one everything's pulled in so now we're going to analyze the pressures and see what okay, so everything's running the system's not doing bad pressure do a little bit funky. It kind of looks like I'm running a little low on my hair flow. I definitely want to correct the airflow issue, which I believe is going to have to do with that.

Foley. That's kinda messed up my target superheat is 12 degrees. We're definitely high on the super heat a little bit low on the suction pressure, little bit low on the head two of my actual TDs. What is about 27 degrees? It's pretty try outside right now too, so expect we're here in SoCal, nothing.

That scares me too much system performance, so we're estimated about 1900 CFM's right now. We're running about 383, actually we're at about 16 under jeff asperton Anka. So what we're gon na do? I thought this unit was going to be low on refrigerant. We're going to correct the airflow problem.

First, sorry we're going to correct the airflow problem with the pulley and then after that, we'll reevaluate everything in the same okay, so we're all finished. To recap: this little AC over here needs a new indoor blower assembly. Once we get that dialed in we'll adjust, the air flow will put the right pulleys back on there and check the charge again. It'll, probably be okay.

Once we replace that motor pulley and then this big one right here has got two leaks. The first stage is completely out of gas. The second stage is still running but low. I went in and shut this unit off because I'm concerned about it icing up again this unit over.

Here I put the other belts on it, so we should be okay, we'll monitor that one and that's it. This fall is done, we'll submit the quotes, and once we get approvals, we'll come back out and finish:.