This video is brought to you by Sporland quality, integrity and tradition. Well, it's a Thursday night. It's like eight. Oh, it's like 9 15 or something like that P.m We've got a walk-in freezer not working.

so get up here and uh, there's still no ice on the coil and I got back here and the temperature controllers calling it says 20 something degrees. It's cool, just not cold enough. So let's hop on the roof and see what we can figure out. All right.

Well this is my rack walk-in freezers right over here. It's gonna be that one right there. Let's uh, open this guy up. see walk-in freezer should be system B Breakers on where not in Defrost.

so we come over here. we gotta dig into this guy. Doesn't sound like it's running. that's not good.

Compressor's really, really warm. That's really not good. All right. let's get in here all right.

This compressor is hot, all right. So let's go ahead and test Voltage 207 207 Yeah, that stinks I Checked all three legs I didn't show you guys right there but I already did and uh, we've got three phase power. That compressor sounds like death right there. So let's turn off power and hope that this guy's off on thermal overload.

Okay, so I turned off the power right here at the breaker. This guy is controlled via the um, the pressure control. Pressure control allows power to or allows the contactor to pull in. basically.

So I'll go ahead and put gauges on it, but the odds are we have pressure because we had three phase out the compressor. All right. This Roto lock valve is all jacked up. the stem is completely rusted out.

We have pressures like I thought we would. Um, it's interesting what I'm going to do is I'm going to try to cool the compressor off well. I guess I should test. I mean I'm just going to cool it off.

but theoretically we don't know technically if it's off an overload or not actually. I'll test it at the compressor contactor because the the connections are kind of jacked up in there. so we can test it over at the contactor and see if we're open on thermal. All right.

This is my lazy way of checking it because the terminals are all jacked up on this guy. So I Already tested to make sure that voltage is dead? It is dead. Okay, so now we're going to go across the bottom of the contactor and we're open. All three windings are open on this guy.

So we're going to try to get this guy to reset. We're hoping that the thermal overloads off and maybe it's low on gas or something. I'm gonna go get a water hose and some tools so that way we can run water over the head of the compressor and try to get it to reset. All right.

I've got the water hose spraying on the compressor I've got my compressor cooling tool on there. just magnetic. The top of that compressor doesn't look good though. looks like it's been overheating.

So in the meantime, let's come over here and we can monitor the compressor over here so we can put our meter on continuity and we can just run right over to here power's still off and just keep checking every few minutes to see if it resets. okay. In the meantime, I was kind of poking my nose around and I noticed that this condenser fan motor is not running doesn't necessarily mean a bad thing, so let's start checking these fuses seeing what we got going on. Now, do you still have power? so we're checking across the fuses? Okay, If I can do this right, see if I can do this tonight.

Gotta get my Chopstick skills out. Okay, so that fuse is good. That fuse is good. good.

Bingo. Got a bad fuse so we know we got one bad fuse and oh, are we lucky enough to have a spare? I have to make sure it's the right size. that's a 10 amp. I think that's the right size, but I got to verify so we definitely have a bad condenser fan motor.

Don't know if that's part of the reason or what, but we're still waiting for this guy to cool off. so I'll come check back in a few. All right I changed the fuse. Here's the bad one right here.

All right, So we're good to go on that and then let's come over here. Looks like our compressor reset. All three have resistance now, so we need to go ahead and turn off this water tool. We've cooled it off, usually let it run for a few minutes after it's cooled just to be safe.

I'm gonna let the water kind of calm down a little bit so we don't short nothing out and then we're going to try to restart this guy. So I'm going to go ahead and turn the rack back on. I had turned off a bunch of stuff, so condenser fan motors back on. Let's give it a condenser fan motor runs.

We'll definitely be troubleshooting more. It's a night time so we're just getting them running basically. Um, all right. Well, Let's uh, put an amp clamp on this guy right here.

see what happens when we turn on system B Started it's running. that's a plus and it just pumped down. Okay, so let's give it a second. Are we just short cycling? Maybe we're just short cycling because we're low on charge or something? I Bet you that's what it is and we're building.

We're building all right. We're gonna give it a few minutes, let it run. an inch. fan motor should turn on, but on the plus side, it runs so that's cool.

But boy man, that guy was getting warm. huh? That's just the water steaming off of it right now. All right, so we're gonna watch it for a little bit. Condenser fan motor should turn on here any minute.

I wonder what was going on here? Was it just going off on high head pressure? or are we low on charge? Hasn't been running long enough yet to, uh, have a clear sight glass so we're just going to keep watching it. Condenser fan motor started up. We were definitely going high in head pressure so it could have just been going off on high head pressure for sure. We're gonna let it keep running now.

I Shut everything else off for now just because I don't want that loud compressor to be running while we're doing this. So I mean sight glass is still clear. Let's give it some time. I Would think that that's interesting that it went off on thermal overload because you would think that it would have just shut off on high head pressure because it has a a pressure control.

Interesting. Interesting. Okay, well I'm gonna keep watching it. It's been about five minutes since I turned off the camera Last we're still running but we are flashing on the Side Glass It's going to be hard to see so we are flashing and the head pressure control valve is not even bypassing yet.

So I'm hoping this is just a low charge thing causing. High Super heat with the condenser fan motor not working. Maybe causing the compressor to overheat Got oil in the oil? Side Glass So oil being in there is a good sign. It's got a cold suction coming back.

hot discharge. This guy's the the DTC valve. This is liquid injection. It's starting to feed pink.

It's hard to say this guy's beat down though. but yeah, we are still flashing over there. We are definitely still flashing over there. So I'm gonna go grab some refrigerant.

We're gonna top off the charge and then, uh, hope that we don't have any problems. So the Rla for this compressor is like nine amps. So we're well under Rla, so that's a good sign. We're in about five amps.

Yeah, so that's a really good sign. I Mean it's actually kind of low. It's kind of surprising how low it is. All right.

I'm gonna grab some refrigerant and hope this guy continues to run all right. She is thirsty. now. this drum that I have right here doesn't have a lot of gas in it.

probably has five or six pounds in it. I have I rode the weight on the top so we'll dump that in and then go from there. Interesting. We'll have to do a pump down and check the liquid level in the receiver too.

It's interesting. looks like it just cleared the sight glass did. but if it was flashing above the bypass pressure of the head pressure control valve, then that means that when the ambient temperature dropped, it would have not enough refrigerant and it would be a problem. So looks like we're frosting back to the compressor right now so we're gonna keep adding some gas and then we'll pump it down and check the liquid level in the receiver.

Here's the deal. What I did was I went and I put in as much gas as I could or just about all of it I think it might be still some Vapor we can get in there but then I went and pumped the system down and now what we're going to do is check the liquid level in the receiver. All right. This is our liquid receiver and we have a head pressure control valve up in this panel right here.

Head pressure control valve is for low ambient conditions. When it gets cool outside, it artificially elevates the head pressure by flooding the condenser. acting like it's being blocked off drives the head pressure up. When that happens, it needs extra refrigerant in the system because it partially bypasses the condenser and dumps refrigerant right into the top of the receiver.

Now there's a couple methods. you can weigh in the charge. This manufacturer of this rat Chirac actually has the charge written on here I think it's 14.4 pounds I think is what it is. Um, you can weigh in the charge but the problem is is I'm out here in the middle of the night how much gas leaked out I Have no idea.

Okay, you can use Sporland's method 90-30-1 Google that and you could see their Tech bullets in and it explains how to do it. But when you're in the field, the easiest way is just to put the maximum amount of refrigerant in the system. Now you got to be careful because you can massively add a lot of extra gas that they don't necessarily need because sometimes receivers can be big and oversized. But in this situation, I'm going to take a heat producing device I'm going to pass it up and down the receiver and then we're going to feel for the temperature change.

When you feel the DraStic temperature change, that's where you know the liquid levels. At now, the maximum amount of refrigerant we can put in this receiver is the three-quarter Mark about right here. Can't put any more because you have to leave room for expansion. You don't want to explosion.

you don't want to rupture anything like that. So we're going to take the heat producing device now. I'm not going to use my thermal imaging camera this time, but I'm just going to use my fingers and I'll show you where the temperature change is all right. So because this is full of liquid refrigerant and it's pumped down right here when I run my fingers up, I'll hit a spot where it gets really hot and it's about right here about right here.

I'm going to do it again I'll heat it up again. Let me just make sure I'm not missing it now. so it's like right about here: I'm gonna go and heat it up again and double check one more time now. Whatever heat producing device you use, you have to make sure it doesn't overheat the receiver right there.

right there. It's red hot so I can run my fingers here. But once I hit here I can't hold it there anymore. that's how hot it is.

So knowing that we added about five pounds of gas in this system this guy and we know it was low because it was flashing and it was above the bypass pressure of the head pressure control valve. So um, and I'll explain more in the recap. So I'm going to add a little more refrigerant to this guy. All right, let's check this guy.

My liquid level is about right here now. So right at the three-quarter Mark is where I have the liquid level when it's pumped down. So we're going to go ahead and open this guy back up. now.

this is the king valve that was shutting down the flow to the evaporator downstairs, so pump the entire refrigerant charge into the receiver and the condenser. So now it should turn on here any second and then I'll go ahead and make a mark where I left the liquid level for the next guy. All right we're running. We're successfully running now.

I'm a little concerned about the lower than normal suction pressure, that really low saturation temperature. This is 404. One thing I will say is unfortunately we tend to see things like this now. I Totally want to investigate that expansion valve, but I'm not going to dig into it tonight.

If I've got it running I'm going to leave it be um I don't think it's it's going to stop it from working. but I definitely would like to see that suction pressure a little higher that saturation temperature a little higher. Now, in my experience on these systems, the expansion valves tend to be a little oversized. Uh, actually.

no. I'm sorry. the compressors are oversized and what happens is in the winter time, it becomes massively oversized because they size them for like 115 degree ambient. Well, it's 46 degrees outside right now, so that compressor is probably doubled if not tripled in capacity because of the lower ambient conditions.

And so basically it's still pumping at the same speed. There's no Vfd slowing it down or anything, so you know that tends to happen when you have. You know, compressors that are sized for the highest ambient, which unfortunately, is the way we have to do it because we need it to work. You know every moment of the Year kind of a thing.

but I tend to notice lower suction pressure in the winter time, but I will investigate that a little bit. But I'm going to let the system keep running right now I don't want to keep turning it on and off. We want to make sure we're bringing the box down to. Temp I Also want to check this dual pressure control.

It looks kind of suspect for Elite. these these leak all the time. So let's grab my leak detector real quick and we're getting some sort of a trace of something right now. There we go.

All right, we've calmed down so let's go right up to this low pressure side of this dual pressure control and see if we're picking anything up. We have the lighted tip so it'll tell us no, not really picking anything up those things notoriously. League nope not looking like it Maybe I Got the leak detector on Turbo which is the highest setting and it's Uber sensitive so you got to be careful because like shaking it around can actually trigger it so you want to be careful. but oh well, maybe not.

Maybe no leaks there. We definitely are low somewhere so we got to find a leak. but again I think I'm gonna let him get through the night so I'm gonna keep watching it and let it run for a little bit longer. This is a small box.

that's why I'm so close to the evaporator. Um, it's come down. It wasn't in the 20s when I first got here. It's about seven degrees Fahrenheit now so that's enough for me for tonight.

I'm confident it'll get them through the night. We'll come back tomorrow, myself or someone else and uh, do a thorough Leak search on it. Uh, check that pressure control again. There's got to be a leak somewhere because I put in nine pounds of gas total so, but we'll be back.

All right, it's daytime I'm back. Uh, the freezer is down to Temp I Said everything's working great, but we're gonna try to dig into this. We need to find a refrigerant leak and we need to figure out why the fuse blew and maybe investigate that low suction pressure. I Have a feeling it just has to do with the Uh compressor being the size that it is with the capacity of the evaporator.

but we'll find out more. All right. So a little recap on last night I Came out here. this compressor was off on thermal overload.

Why? I don't know. but right away I was concerned because the whole head of the compressor. the paint is peeling off like had been overheating. Okay once I cooled it off and got it to reset the thermal overload.

It started up and the sight glass was flashing, but the pressures in the system were above the bypass pressure of the head pressure control valve that's behind this panel. The head pressure control valve on this system bypasses at 180. PSI When I started it up, we were at like 190. PSI So the head pressure control valve was not bypassing and the Side Glass was flashing meaning that we were severely undercharged because I cleared the sight glass above the bypass pressure but then I still had to add the winter charge or the flooded charge after that.

So then once I got it started I Noticed that this condenser fan motor right here was not running because this fuse was blown. Now something I didn't say in the video last night was before I change that fuse I tested the the motor wiring to ground to make sure it wasn't grounded out before I just threw a fuse in there I don't like just throwing fuses in things so it wasn't grounded. So I put in a fuse and the motor started up and it's still runny but something caused that fuse to blow I Don't ever approach a situation saying sometimes fuses just go bad I never accept that I Always dig now. I'm not going to say I always find a reason for a fuse to go bad, but don't ever assume they just go bad.

dig into it, figure out why. That's what we're here to do today. Here's what I think happened. We may be proven wrong I think that this walk-in freezer had been down all day long I think that I know that they got a delivery of food yesterday and I think that food came in Frozen and it slowly thought out as the day went on.

Um, the ice cream's the big kick. That's what they get ice cream on Thursdays and it was all hard until the end of the night. So I think that the freezer had been down since the previous or since that morning yesterday because when I came in last night and it was 47 degrees, we were not bypassing on the head pressure control valve. That system should have ran.

even though it was slightly flashing, it probably would have been okay. I think that yesterday morning it was really cold. it went to go bypass and fled the condenser and there wasn't enough gas. And I think that the compressor had been operating like that all day, possibly short cycling and um, it had high superheat.

and I think that's what caused it to go off on thermal. That's that's the running idea right now. But you also got to factor in that we were running elevated head pressure because that condenser fan motor wasn't running. so it's kind of tricky.

You see the nice mountains in the background. Um, we definitely know that there's got to be some damage though because all the paint is gone on the head of the compressor. That's a problem. Um I need to figure out what the the pressure or the temperature at which that head or that uh DTC valve liquid injection starts to flood.

It's also possible that the liquid injection is not working and if it runs without the liquid injection valve. Basically, when it gets to high compression ratio situations that liquid injection opens and you know, cools the head of the compressor. So the fact that we see the paint missing on the top kind of indicates that maybe we have a problem with that liquid injection valve. So we need to look into that.

That's what we're here doing today. All right. if this motor is what I think it is, it's a three-quarter horsepower Us motor. it should be running at football Rla is 4.7 amps and we're running 4.2 I Got to be honest, that's a little higher than I'd expect it to be 4.2 Usually you run a bit under that.

see this motor right here is should be the identical motor. We don't know for sure, but it should be and we're running 3.7 So let's get in here. Let's also test voltage just to make sure we're delivering the right voltage. So we go right here.

Right here. we're delivering 205 volts. Let's go ahead and amp this one real quick. Oh, this is the one that I just checked right.

If I can do this without blowing something up, yeah, those should be the same. Motors So yeah, I bet you. My guess is going to be it's a capacitor issue. So what we're going to do now is we're actually going to shut down the rack.

So we're going to shut everything down and we're going to put gauges on the walk-in freezer compressor and we're going to equalize them out. Now You got to be careful shutting down racks because you never know what they're running in this situation. They used to have ice machine Breakers in here, but they no longer use them because they've installed remote condensers elsewhere so we don't need to really worry about those, but always understand what you're working on before you shut down a rack without permission. So now we're going to leak check the system I have someone else here with me today that's going to start leak checking and I'm going to dig into this electrical issue with this condenser fan motor.

all right now. The electrical wiring in here isn't the greatest and I definitely want to clean some stuff up. but I pulled all the wires out just to inspect them. I Don't see any damage to the wires.

There's anti-chafe bushing right there. Don't see any issues there, but these things are notorious for the wires rubbing out on the Conduit too. but it didn't blow since I replaced the fuse last night. I Don't see any issues here.

The capacitor is testing good. It's a 10 microfarad capacitor we're testing at 10.57 which is kind of odd that it's that. High Um, it's also a little bit of damage. unfortunately.

these things are they. They're held up with these brackets and so they tend to get a little damaged. It's also possible that something just simply got wet because we've had rain for literally the last seven days. Looks like we need to do a better job of washing some coil cleaner off too, but we've had a lot of rain.

so uh yeah, it's hard to say so. I'm gonna clean up this wiring. Fix these little connectors, make them look nicer. I'm gonna go and replace the capacitor just because I see some physical damage to it and it's a little over tightened.

Maybe or something. or just the vibration. Got it because it's not smashed over here. so maybe it's just a vibration thing.

We'll fix that. We'll fire it back up. There's not an identical motor in here. Every motor.

Oh wait, no, this is a this one. This is a three-quarter so this. no wait. yeah, this is just a newer one.

This is a Mojave motor. This one just has the updated wiring which is a smaller insulation jacket. But it does say it's allowed to run 4.7 amps which we were under, but I was just surprised it was so high because usually we're a little bit lower. The other motor I was testing comparing it to was this AO Smith which you can't go from Brand to brand and compare the current jaw because this one is allowed to do 5.1 amps.

So yeah, I should be able to test it to this one because this is the same brand. but again, it's all very possible that something just got wet during the rain. So we're going to clean it up and put a new capacitor on this and start it up and see I have isolated the motor, the wires. nothing's touching anything and we're going to do an insulation test.

So let's go ahead and test right now. see what it says? It says greater than 4 000 Mega Ohms. So I don't see anything wrong with the motor, don't see an issue with the insulation values of the motor. Now let's go ahead and test the wiring in that conduit.

see if we can pick up a short on that. Maybe I have isolated the motor wiring and we're going to test one side of it and it's greater than 4000 Mega Ohms. So I don't see a problem there. Let's go ahead and isolate this one and test the other side.

Okay, good test again. There we go. Same thing greater than four thousand. So I don't think there's a rub out in The Wire I would think that it would show itself I mean what I could do is jiggle the wire a bit, see if I can break anything free, but we shouldn't be rubbing out on anything.

Let's test again now. I'm holding it and we're not seeing any any leakage over time. So I think we're good on the wiring. so I don't see any problems there.

Now, just because we did an insulation test and we didn't see a problem, doesn't mean there's not a problem. What you're testing is you're testing the potential of The Wire shorting to ground right giving having a path to ground and the insulation on The Wire should protect it. but check this out. Rub in here.

Look right there that when I did my test was isolated and nowhere near ground so you wouldn't get a a path to ground that way. So I think that that rubbed out inside this box somewhere. So we're gonna go ahead and fix that. All right.

So here's the plan. I'm going to take this MC cable and I'm going to make it to where it goes straight in the back. I'm going to push this knockout out right here. We're going to connect straight in the back so it's less of a bind because these things are notorious in vibration situations.

If you put it under a bind, it's it's likely going to rub out over here or something so we'll do that real quick. That's where these MC Cutters come in. These things are Lifesavers Man just set this in here and it cuts it and then the wire pulls right off where you need it. So I need to Mark where I need it and then I'll show you guys the process.

Okay so I have it marked and I put it in here and I depressed this lever and then we're just going to turn this handle like that. Now it's cut and this should pull right off. Now you gotta perfectly cut MC No damage to the wires. We'll inspect them just to make sure and then you're good to go and it'll go right where I need it to make sure we get the anti-chade bushing in there.

There we go. Now that's perfect. I'll end up there's extra wire in here that we're not going to use. so I end up cutting that off.

Phone's not going to be able to be propped on getting that off. but I got to beat the crap out of that to get that guy out. So I'm gonna knock it out real quick. so we're getting there.

We got the new guy drilled in in the back with the anti-chave pushing. We got those guys secured. We're gonna run the capacitor to the sidewall. It's interesting to see this too is that this capacitor is plus or minus six percent and it's running 10.56 and we're allowed to run 10.6 would be the higher you know the six percent over which is interesting I Usually don't see them go up.

this one's reading 10.05 um I'll see them go up in capacitance like when the scale is changing on the meter sometimes. but I don't know I'm intrigued by that. Why is it reading High 10.56 Oh well, we're changing it anyways. We're putting this one in so we're almost there.

So I'm using Juegos two two ones and they're very nice. But one thing I have noticed with Juegos is you have to tape them with electrical tape because if you put them under weird binds, they can actually the levers can come open by themselves. like if you if you go to fold the wires back in It'll like force the lever open. So I always put a wrap of electrical tape around them.

but I do like the way goes. So all right so we're all put back in here. Oh I need to pull this bracket off I Mounted the capacitor over here, taped it just to keep the water from splashing on it, Secured all the wires, grounded it. Everything's nice and tight and good where it should be.

This will be fine, no longer Rubbing wires are all protected in there, so we're good with that and we're just assembling this guy. I'd like to redo all these too, but um I'm you know I'm not going to reinvent the wheel right now. All these motors like I hate this. Like why all the excess wire? That's just silly.

but I mean it's not rubbing out so it is what it is. Well definitely you know what we need to look at this capacitor. I can't overlook this that looks like crap. so we gotta check that.

I couldn't I couldn't leave it alone. So I went ahead and ran this capacitor over here. This one takes a 15 because it's a weird Mars motor AO Smith I'm gonna leave that one be for now. but look at this capacitor was just smashed down because like you'll you'll rupture the capacitor that way.

So when n did that now we have no potential of it. you know, getting too wet I mean not really and everything else is good. So we're gonna put this guy Gap back together and then uh keep going. We went over this system multiple times.

we are not I checked the pressure control again not finding a leak. where I am picking up leaks because the compressor has like what looks like oil all over it I Know it's hard for you guys to see but it's like covered in it but nothing in the accumulator like just but what I do get is right here on these guys on the packings. They're leaking like crazy and it makes me wonder. it's like hit and miss.

Now it's not going to do it but this leaks too. Crazy light you can see right there. So I'm wondering if it's just slowly leaking out of these so we'll try to cinch them down and then we'll talk to them. possibly about changing those but everywhere else we checked we don't see really anything going on so we're going to call it at that.

We're gonna get ready to start it back up. So we get these calls in the middle of the night and the arrangement and the agreements that I have with my customers is as long as it's not a a major major issue. I just Band-Aid it get them through the night, then I'll go back the next day when we're not on overtime. Now if it's something that I have to fix, I can make the Judgment call and decide to stay there, but I really don't want to stay there all night I'd rather put some gas in it as long as it's not just dumping it out right and uh, you know, change a fuse, make sure everything's you know, kind of operating and then come back and follow up the next day.

But it's really important that I want to stress that and I said it in the video too I didn't show it on the video but before I turn the power on after I change the fuse I made sure that we didn't have a direct short to ground. Okay, you know I don't ever assume that a fuse just goes bad I always dig into it and this goes back to the very first video on my YouTube channel was me changing or chasing an electrical short because we had a blown fuse and that was what started the whole YouTube thing. was me showing that I don't ever assume that a fuse just goes bad. We dig into it right and we look further and dive deeper.

You know and you know I'm not going to say that I always find the cause of a fuse that goes bad, but I try as hard as I can. That's all Okay, Now we went through the system. um again. I got him going that night I was a little bit concerned about the lower than what I thought to be normal suction pressure.

Further investigation, it's working fine I didn't see an issue with it. We did check the evaporator superheat I did not get it on film I had someone else working with me. so when I usually have someone else I have them tackling things as I'm tackling things because I can't have a second person there with me waiting for me to film every single step of the process. That's not how that works, right? So I went through it.

We checked the evaporator super. He didn't really see an issue with that. It does have a pressure limiting expansion valve which can also play with your pressures when the system's under when it's running. But um, the main reason why I saw what I thought to be lower than normal suction pressure in my opinion is just because of the size of the compressor and we tend to run into those issues, especially in the cooler.

Seasons because here in Southern California the area that I'm in, we have to size for an extremely high ambient temperature 110 to 115 degrees depending on where you're at and that equals. And so basically, if you look at a compressor's performance chart, it's going to have less BTU capacity as the temperature goes up and it's going to have more BTU capacity as the outdoor temperature goes down. Okay, so when you size for the highest ambient, you want to make sure that you have the correct BTU capacity at that highest Ambience So therefore, as the temperature drops, it becomes drastically oversized. That's one of the issues that we have with single fixed speed compressor systems.

as technology advances and we're starting to see more and more equipment. I'm not going to be the least bit surprised if we don't see more common in the Light commercial side Vfd controlled compressors and or inverter system items that regulate the compressor speed and multiple things. So in a perfect world, you don't just regulate the compressor speed as you're regulating the compressor speed and electronic expansion valve is also throttling and they're communicating between the two to find the best operating speed for the proper system capacity. right? In a perfect world, you know we would have something similar to a parallel system that you might use in a supermarket where the compressor theoretically doesn't really shut off very much.

You know you, you essentially reduce the the speed of the compressor, so that way it just continuously runs and you don't have those high peak, inrush currents of the compressor turning on and off. Okay, but that's a whole other conversation and as usual, I go off on tangents. Okay, so we got the system operational, but I do want to stress about testing for the electrical issues. Okay I tested for the electrical issues used the insulation Tester the mega ohm meter went through it and I didn't see any problems I didn't see a problem in the motor I didn't see a problem in the wiring but I still found a problem after the fact and that's because I had the wires isolated now.

Had I done an insulation test with the wires intact the way that I found the system right before I pulled all the wires out I might have picked that problem up. What I think was happening was vibration was causing that wire every once in a while to ground out to the side of that little electrical box where the connections were happening inside of there. So we don't just trust a tool. we don't just trust.

you know our eyes. we use, uh, we use several tools, right? and our body is a tool. And our physical tools, you know, help us. but we look, look at everything.

Okay, this is a perfect example that we don't just let a meter tell us that everything's good because in that situation, I created a situation by isolating the wires that the meter couldn't find the issue. You understand what I'm saying. So um, and before everybody asks me, uh, that is a climb insulation tester, it's actually not mine, it's one of my other technicians I have another fluke insulation tester I actually gave that one to one of my other technicians, the client one so and it is a pretty cool little meter. I Have no affiliation with them, but it's a pretty nice little insulation tester.

If you're doing high-end stuff, you might want to go a little bit more fancy, but it does the job for what we do as far as what kind of insulation values you should be reading and different things like that. Just ask the Google You know, remember that when you're testing insulation or use doing a mega ohm test on a compressor that's encapsulated and it has oil in it. It's it's just Google Search what Copeland Copeland Has a tech bulletin from like 30 years ago about doing insulation tests on hermetically sealed compressors. It's it's very interesting and it's kind of eye-opening Copeland basically says don't just trust that it says low insulation values.

There's other things that can affect the insulation test, such as moisture in the system such as temperatures of the the ambient and things like that. So, but when you're testing just a standard motor, it's pretty basic. just Google and you'll come up with all the different insulation values of what you should read. and when you're testing wire and different things like that so can't stress enough.

big picture diagnoses, right? take a step back, look at the big picture. Okay, we are here to solve the problem and not the symptoms. So what's the symptom here the symptom is we had a blown fuse. The symptom is we had a low charge, but that's not the problem.

The problem is that we had a short that caused the blown fuse. The problem is that we have a refrigerant leak that caused the low charge. If we just go in and throw Band-Aids on our equipment, we're not going to be doing ourselves any justice because yeah, we might make a little more money because we have multiple return visits and we keep getting to bill the customer. But the customer is going to start getting frustrated because why the heck can you not fix it the first time? Why the heck you know? Are you not thoroughly diagnosing my equipment? So take a step back, look at the big picture, do yourself and your customer A service and stay successful.

I Really, really appreciate you all making it to the end of the video. It's very humbling to know that you guys like the ramblings of my brain. That's what these videos are. It's literally me just walking through service call and verbally troubleshooting.

That's that's all that They are okay I apologize if I miss certain things I'm not perfect I apologize if I don't explain everything in full detail. Okay, but feel free to shoot me an email if you have any questions. Hvacrvideos Gmail.com If you're interested in doing so, please consider subscribing to the channel, turning your notifications on, and leave Me some feedback in the comments. Good, bad, Whatever it is, it helps the interaction on the channel.

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