This video is brought to you by spore'ln quality, integrity and tradition. Today, the complaint is, is that the heater keeps turning on and it makes it nice and warm in the dining room, they're saying that just randomly the heater will turn on on this unit. So it's the middle of the summer right now, so there's no need for the heater. She says the manager says that they set the thermostat to like 70 degrees, which seems bad, but it's really not that big of a deal these units are more than capable of handling that and she says that the heater just keeps coming on.

So we're gon na dive into it and see what we can find. So this is just a standard. I think 15 ton Linux, I believe anyway, so we come in here. There's no error messages on the board.

The first thing I want to do is I want to look at the temp sensors. The unit has onboard temp sensors. It does have a conventional thermostat, but I want to see the temp sensors, so we've got one saying 71 saying 65, one same 72. 37.

I don't know why this one doesn't show me what the censorship for 45 I'm gon na have to open up the manual and see if it explains which sensors are, which next thing I'm gon na do. Is I'm going to check the error messages so I'm going to flip the dip switch that says, recall and see what we get here, usually like the first three or four 6868. I think that's actually a heating there, fifty-two the teachers. I pretty much passed that point.

I don't really care so I'm gon na hold this down until they disappear, and I just erased the air because I'm going to take recall off 68 and 52, so we need to figure out what those error codes mean. 52 is a limit, switch and 68 is a gas valve so we're in the middle of the summer. We should not be having those error codes, so something is definitely going on in all the manuals are missing out of these units and there's an identical unit. Next to it, the manuals missing out of that this unit has the ability of doing a fresh air, heating and cooling its air tempering.

So basically it looks at the duct temperatures and I'm kind of thinking - that's what it is. So you have the ability, basically to set this unit up whether or not there's a demand for cooling or heating from the thermostat. It looks at the duct temperatures to make sure that people don't get a blast of cold air or hot air. So imagine in the Midwest, where you know they might have really really cold temperatures or on the East Coast, really really cold temperatures when they turn on the thermostat.

They might get a blast of cold air when that indoor blower motor turns on so this unit basically has ducks sensors down in the ductwork, and it looks at the temperatures my my first in thought about this complaint, because it's a nuisance problem and I've actually had Another tech look at it and we can't figure it out. So that's why I'm here, but my first thought is: is that one of those duck sensors is bad and it's making the unit think that it's a lot colder in the ductwork than it really is and therefore, in the off cycle, when the thermostat satisfies and brings A building down to temp the heater turns on and it blasts the ducts of temperature until the thermos, and I think it's just going on and off again that's just my initial thought. I don't know if that's the case, I kind of need the the manual to know what the sensor readings were and I'll have to google it and see. If I can find a manual for this which I can but and figure out which one of those temp sensors and what they're reading, because some of those looked pretty low when I scrolled through them so but we'll see what I did right now was.

I went down to the thermostat, I put it into occupied mode because it wasn't unoccupied and I'm just doing things a little bit out of time. I don't want to jump to conclusions here. I want to do it slowly, just catch whatever. This new sense of problem is what I'm trying to do.

Is I'm trying to recreate whatever happens so the manager - that's here, is very specific on her routine everyday and that's why I'm asking her okay, how do you do this? What do you do? What do you set the thermostat at and I'm doing the identical things that she does so she told me that she comes in. She hits override on the thermostat, which is forces it in the occupied mode and she turns the temp down to 69 degrees. According to the thermostat, the heating is set for sixty-five degrees, okay, so when she turns it down to 69 that shouldn't create a problem. I'm gon na wait for the unit to satisfy and see what happens.

As of now, I have a full call for cool. All of my LED lights are lit up that are supposed to be lit up and we're just watching. The unit run. The unit satisfied at least up here, everything shut off and it seemed like it did it correctly because it shut off the third-stage first, which would have been second stage, and then it shut off the first two compressors last and the heating did not turn on like.

I was thinking what's happening. It still doesn't mean that's the problem with the fresh air heating, but I'm going to our air tempering. You can call it I'm going to download the manual on my tablet right now. I'm using the Lennox pros app great little app.

If you guys don't have it, I suggest you download it. If you work on Linux units because you can find OAM parts diagrams and all the documentation you need so just look up, Lennox pros on the Play Store or on the App Store with Apple okay. So I found the manual what I did was I looked up. Alright, I found the manual for the m-16 circuit board and I found a tab that says display sensor readings and here's the sensors.

So what we're gon na do is flip the dip switch that says temp like I did earlier, and then we're going to scroll through these and figure out what these sensors say right now, so we flipped the dip switch temp and the first one that we read Zero is outdoor air temp, okay, I'm actually gon na put this up here. So zero is outdoor air temp. That seems accurate, we'll push the button once it says 69 that is return. Air temp, that's accurate because that's my building temp right now is 69 degrees.

Let's keep going Oh point. Two is supply air temperature 68. That's accurate, because we're satisfied right now: let's hit it again: number three zone: air temperature that says 37 degrees C. I think that that might be my sensor.

Okay, so we're gon na keep going point for my sensor and duct four is zero. We don't have that setup five. I pushed the wrong button. If you double push it goes backwards.

Five is zero. Okay, so that's not set up. Six really shouldn't say anything. This is economize euro economize, your position, damper position, 45 % that doesn't really make sense.

The economizer dampers closed and we seven endure relative humidity. Fifty. I don't think we have a relative humidity sensor in this unit. That's interesting, okay! So what I'm gon na do? I'm probably gon na turn fresh air to green off.

When I look into this looks like we just cycled on again, I'm gon na go in here and turn fresh air temporary, because I don't want that to even be part of the picture we're in Southern California. We really don't so, let's even see if it's on I'm gon na have to go through the manual and figure out where to set that up. So I go into the IMC settings and if you look right down here fresh air tempering, what I want to do is disable that I want to disable fresh air temporary check it all out just to make the set point dizzy. If I can so, I got to go through my neighbor, so I went into the ecto settings and then I navigated to my parameter, which is 6.20, I'm going to push the shift switch and that's going to tell me what it's set for 1:38 is off.

So it's already set off, so it is not that that is our problem, go ahead and change that back and go ahead and take it out of hecto. So the fresh air heating has already turned off interesting. Okay, so now we got ta proceed further. So my hunch was incorrect unless there's something intermittent going on with this board out of minimum, because we're in the middle of the summer, if I can't figure this out, we're gon na turn off the gas valves and then give it a day or two and see If the problem persists, I'm having a hard time believing that the heaters actually on - but you know who knows we'll see at this point - I've confirmed that the fresh air heating is not on and everything else seems to be working.

Fine. It's running, I haven't, put gauges on it, but it's it's cooling. It's kicking ass. I still need to check the condenser fan motors to make sure they're all working they could.

Those could be staged over there that aren't running, but what I'm going to do so, in my opinion, you have to make an educated guess sometimes so, yes bring it up to the manager. You can include them on the decision-making process. In this particular situation, I'm going to go ahead and make an executive decision that I'm gon na change the thermostat. It is an older Honeywell vision, Pro thermostat, it's a really old one and it was changed in oh hey.

I think I think that's what I have on here. 2008. I'm gon na go ahead and change the thermostat, because it's either the thermostat or it's the board and the board is a heck of a lot more expensive than the thermostat. So we're going to start with that and then we're gon na see if we have any more problems.

Here's my thermostat, so it's an older vision Pro and we're gon na go ahead and put in a newer vision Pro and the cool thing about these new ones is, I can program them over here and then just put the sub-base on and snap it on the Wall, okay, so I'm going through the Installer settings and I'm going to show you guys. The trickiest part: I'm gon na show you everything the trickiest part about setting these up is getting the zone sensor hooked up right. A lot of people can't seem to get those hooked up right, so we're gon na go through ok, so heating system is going to be conventional, forced air cooling stages. Actually, we go back cooling stages, we're going to change to our heating stages to equipment.

Controls fan. Ok, go through system changeover automatic. I really don't change too many of these options here. Leave the cooling cycles on compressor off time on just leave it to the factory.

It always changes the two periods a day. I don't really mess with the minimum, but I'm gon na do it in this case, because they keep ramping this thing down to like 65 degrees, so we're gon na set the minimum at 69 degrees. I can't go any lower than that maximum heating. There's no need for it to be that high we're gon na go to 72 degrees.

Is the maximum heating? Okay, here's here's the zone sensor. So do we have a wired sensor on the S terminals? The answer is yes, because I have a zone sensor. Is the wired remote indoor sensor? Is there a wired, remote indoor sensor? Yes, you have to answer all these questions. You can name it if you want in door sensor, T stat terminal s1, yes, indoor sensor, type 20k use T stat sensor for temp control, no use indoor sensor for temp control.

Yes, you have to answer through those questions. If you don't answer all of those questions, then the out remote sensor won't work and other than that, there's really no more stuff that I'm going to change. There's a few bunch more things, so I hit done. Do you want to exit installer settings? Yes, so you have to go through those to setup a zone sensor properly and if you don't, then it's going to read this temperature also another tip if you're ever mavet gating the thermostat and asked for a password, it's that 1920.

It changes it can change per thermostat, but it's usually stamped on the back of the thermostat and there's also a sticker on the back of the sub-base. So 1920 is the password. If, for whatever reason that 1920 doesn't work, take 1920 and add one two, three four to it and the four-digit number that comes from those two will be your universal backdoor password, so the universal backdoor password if the 1920 or whatever your says, doesn't work. You take one two three four and add it to that: four-digit code and you'll get another four-digit number and that will be your universal backdoor password kind of installed.

Now we're going to install the zone sensor, one of these old ones left. But you know it's not problematic at this time kitchen we've already changed so else installed the new zone sensor. Another thing I want to make sure and I'm going to make talk to them to make sure they're not setting pitchers of ice water right here, because the cold from the ice water could be radiating on to that sensor. Making it think it's colder in here than it's supposed to be also so I went ahead and ramped the cooling down and I got first in second stage to turn on so we know the thermostats correct and the wiring is good.

What I'm going to do now is put it into test mode, because the building temp right now is about 71 degrees, and it's going to satisfy really quick. I'm gon na put it into test mode and then we'll put my gauges on the other three. Each of the three compressors and then test the cooling make sure everything's good with us. This is my first stage the sub poins a little bit lower than what I've used to seen on these linux students, but still my my approach.

Champ is on point they're, calling for like ten degrees, that's pretty darn close to approach, I'm going to call this first stage good and we're going to keep on going down the line. Second stage approach. Temp is right on point 410 degrees. This is a really good teaching moment the third-stage look at how high my suction pressure is compared to what my measure quick target is.

It makes you think that something's up with the txb, but look at my super knee my super heat. It's pretty good. My sub points about where I expect these linux units to be my head pressures on point. What's going on? Why do we have a high suction pressure? You always have to know how to interpret your probes and know when they're being inaccurate, and in this case it's nothing wrong with the probe.

It's the placement and I'm going to explain it to you right now, so every stage on this unit. This is a slab coil and it's stacked. Okay, it's stacked in here. This is my return down here.

Sucking from the building first stage is on the bottom. Second stage is: the middle third stage is on the top okay. The economizer is ever so slightly open. So we're mixing some outside air, so guess what take your throat and move it up here to where you get a more even mixture of the real air that or shut your economizers okay, but now watch we're going to be on point with our pressures you give It a second to stabilize out you have to know when to check out your probes and when to know when something's wrong.

Look at that, because we're getting a proper mixture of the air. So you have to make sure that, if you're setting up a profile that your probes are in the same spot and you're getting the right air temperatures, let's see what our let's see, what our approach 10th is approach. Temp is on point too, because they call for 10 degrees we're right on the money. This unit is operating up to spec.

Now, here's the other thing. This is a Lennox apron or a v-shaped. Coil is this applies on any condenser where's, the first stage where's. The second stage where's the third stage.

You need to know that when you're working on these units - okay, so on this particular unit, the first stage comes through and it's the top half of this coil right here. The top half is the first stage. The second stage is going to be this top right here, and the third stage is the bottom two corners. So when you're getting your air temperatures, if you're doing the first stage, you've got to get a outdoor air temperature right here and then for the second and third stage you got to get a temperature in here, which is out of the sunlight which might be lower.

I did a little diagram right here, just to explain, and I try to draw these so first stage is the top second stage is the back. Third stage is the bottom, so this unit is on point everything's. Looking good notice, we have a 26 degree temps split, but that's because I moved the return air Pro. Okay, it's getting that mixed outdoor air right now, if I put it back in the return air stream that temp splits going to drop down and that's also going to affect our BTU output, but we're everything's good on this unit, so we're gon na call.

This good tell them to keep an eye on it. Let us know if they have any more problems with it suppose a heater thing that was going on, I don't know everything is good. So, no matter how simple the call we have to be thorough, we can't just run in there and say: oh you're, crazy and move on. Sometimes we even have to make an educated guess and you have to kind of think okay what's going on here.

What are the potential problems and eliminate the potential problems to help you hone in on the diagnosis or figure out what the problem might be? Okay in this situation, I narrowed it down to - and I didn't mention it on camera, but I narrowed it down to a thermostat problem. I mean a thermostat wire problem, a thermostat and or the the circuit board the m-16 circuit board. I don't see a lot of problems with the circuit boards. Okay and I went through and checked some things, the the fresh air, heating and cooling or the fresh show heating, I should say, or air tempering.

I went ahead and checked that, and that was actually off. That was my original hunch. Okay took that out of the picture, so that left me with two things: thermostat wire or thermostat. My logic with the thermostat wire is is that if it was a shorted out, thermostat, wire and or something rubbed together, I would think it would be happening a little bit more often and we would potentially get a tripped transformer or something too.

But again it was kind of a decision. What's gon na be easier, trace down the entire thermostat wire or replace the thermostat. So I decided to go ahead and replace the thermostat, because I do have a high failure rate on those older Honeywell thermostats, especially once they get older. We tend to see some weird erratic things all right.

Also, there was the potential that maybe they were taking pictures of ice water and putting him next to that zone. Sensor, okay, but I actually had a little test on that. One and I'll tell you what I did was. I was there doing some other work on some other ACS too.

So I didn't say anything. I went ahead and changed the thermostat and then changed the zone sensor and didn't say anything and let them operate like normal and by the time I was done, fixing everything else. It was probably about three o'clock in the afternoon, so they'd made it through their lunch rush, and I just went over to that area where I put the zone sensor and just without saying anything, just look to see how they had stacked pictures of ice water there And in fact they weren't even putting them there, they were putting them somewhere different and then after I saw that without saying anything. Yet I asked the manager hey.

Where do you guys keep pictures of ice on a regular basis? You know when you're in the dining room again, not him not letting her know what I was trying to get to just seeing how she would answer the question and she says: oh, we keep him over here somewhere, totally different and then after she said that I Said, do you ever put them in this spot right here? She said no, okay cool, so you know I didn't ask the manager point-blank. Do you put pictures here because majority the time the answer is always gon na, be no when they think that they might know what I'm gon na ask them. So you kind of you know get yourself to that question and ask different questions to answer the question that you want answered before they give you an answer. Does that make sense, or did I just like totally Mindwarp you on that? I have some weird logic in my head, but a lot of times if someone thinks that they're doing something wrong or their employees are doing something wrong, they're gon na say no.

No! No. We never do that. No, we never leave the door open on our walk-in cooler, even though they've been having icing up problems forever and then come to find. Oh yeah, they leave the door open all the time.

So it's that kind of stuff. So when even on a walk-in cooler, if I'm getting an iced up thing I'll go, ask one of the cooks: hey does that door get left open a lot before I ask the manager and the cook says: oh man yeah the things open all the time and Then I'll go, ask the manager and the manager says no. We never do and I said, but I'm confused, because the cook says you leave it open all the time and then you know you see how I'm getting to those questions. Okay, it's just kind of investigating.

You got to kind of look at the big picture and try to figure things out. Okay, so anyways, I changed. The thermostat went ahead and went through the unit fixed all the other units that I was working on that day too, and it's been it's been a while, since that call happened and actually everything's been good, no more complaints. So I think I was pretty good on my educated guess on changing that thermostat.

Okay, I really appreciate you guys taking the time to watch these videos leave me some feedback. Send me an email, HVAC, our videos at gmail.com and again leave me feedback down in the YouTube comments. I really appreciate it whether it be good or bad. I'm always looking for criticism.

I want to know how I can improve my technical skills if you guys have something to tell me or a tip go for it. I really appreciate it: okay, thanks again and we will catch you guys on the next one. Okay.