This video is brought to you by spore'ln quality, integrity and tradition, we're working on a linux l-series packaged unit. Today we actually have a couple of them: they're problematic. Let's open this guy up so right off the bat we've got contactors running condenser fan motors money, I'm getting cold air blowing out of the condenser whole day, long like lukewarm, the denser itself isn't horribly bad stay right here. This is a really old one.

It's like 97, maybe okay, so we've got a blower contactor and two compressors, or vice versa. We at least have two compressor contactors and a blower in here, and one compressor with a hot discharge, one compressor with nothing and the body of the compressor go on, and it feels like it's vibrating you get in here and check to see. What's going on looks like we should be calling up nope that, because your contacts are disconnected, I bet you anything. We got a bad compressor on this guy old test and again we'll see.

What's up at this point, I want to know why this compressor is disconnected so before I hook it up we're gon na check resistance across the windings mind you, the wires are still hooked up, but they're disconnected up here. Oh point, seven, six point: seven! Six! Oh point: seven four, so we're gon na use the Coakley mobile app right now and find out what our winding resistance should be all right. So this is the Copeland mobile app, but this is the desktop version. I just use this because it you can see it a little bit better on the actual YouTube video.

So what we're gon na do is we're gon na go ahead and input our model number here, which is a Zr 57 K 3, and we have a TF 5 and our version. You get two versions here: 220 and 230 volts, so we would be the 230 volt version. There's lots of great information on this app. So if we go right here to electrical and then we go down to winding resistance again, all of this is available on the mobile app.

We get a line to line winding resistance value of 6. Our point six, eight six, so you can see that, though actual winding resistance of the compressor that I tested was yeah within range. Okay. So it's not too bad, especially from being off for very long time.

So now that we know that our winding resistance is pretty close to being within range, it kind of makes me want to hook this compressor up to see why it was disconnected we're gon na check for direct shorts after we check for direct shorts, then won't go Ahead and fire it up, maybe we just have a locked up compressor. I don't know it's hard to say nothing there in there and then I need to check to a known ground to make sure I'm getting a good ground to this copper line right here. So I should be able to test across yeah, so we're getting a good ground, it's reading across itself and then I'll test to another known ground right here, I'll test it again it's ground to make sure that the copper line is properly grounded and then, after that, We'll go ahead and hook this guy up and test it and see if we can get it to fire up. Maybe it's a locked up, compressor say the reason why it was warm is because the crankcase heaters still hooked up.

So, whenever the compressor yeah, I believe I don't know, I don't see an auxilary really so the crankcase either should have voltage right now, alright, that it's not water, it could have an auxilary relayed to where the crankcase cedar doesn't get energized when the compressors energized. That's the usual way to do it, but I don't see an auxilary relay on the side of the contactor. So maybe it's in one of those Capri lasers who knows hard to say but anyways alright. So now we're going to hook this compressor up.

So I went ahead and hooked it up color for color, like the other units, I'm assuming that's the right, we're making an assumption here so we're just gon na see. If we can get this guy to start up, I don't have any service gauges on it. Yet I just want to test it. If I see it start then I'll put service gauges on it.

So I don't know if this is going to turn on kind of want to stand back. Okay, so there's a terminal vent or something to the side powers on and what we'll do is just press in the contactor service gauges and Sabin operates just for shits and giggles, I'm going to reverse the rotation of the compressor running backwards, like we've got ta back Across so I would intend reverse the rotation by simply swapping any two legs. You notice that I had it hooked up red, yellow blue. Now, it's blue red, yellow.

Okay! Now you normally can't do this on a scroll compressor, but what I'm checking is by reversing the rotation to see. If possibly, someone has the reverse rotation reversed already accidentally, so we're gon na fire this guy up and see if we get any pumping action out of it and see if we get any change in the sound of the compressor more than likely, I'm thinking no, but All this could have been solved. If I don't know if it was me that disconnected that it might have been or could have been someone else, one of our other texts, but if we would have just wrote what was wrong with it, then we would know. You know hey, it's got bad scroll set or whatever, so alright we're gon na fire.

This thing back up and it's energized now go ahead and push this guy in sounds better already. We are posting our to doorknob, so check that out. What do you know? The phases were reversed why it was disconnected. I don't know, but we are pumping, looks okay, so we're gon na go ahead and finish troubleshooting this unit.

You can't just assume that something's bad, because it's disconnected you never know why someone disconnected it. So what it looks like is that someone got in the phase, rotation, incorrect and or maybe there's something else going on it's hard to say so. We're gon na give it some time. I'm gon na do a full analysis on it right now.

Okay, so we know that the unit thermostat works, because at first I had to hold in to contact her, but then it pulled itself in okay, but now the second stage just satisfied more than likely it's just too cool in the dining room. So for troubleshooting purposes. We're gon na put this unit in test, so we're gon na hit the shift unit-tests a lot of times on these old forts. It won't work.

The outputs, like you know where CEO one and we're gon na go to c11 to get a full call for cooling. C11 gives us full call hold it in till the decimals appear there we go, let it go now all stages are running and it won't cycle off the other phone Saturday. Okay, so we're gon na continue with our troubleshooting right now, but so far it's not looking horrible we're just going to go through finish testing the first stage. Then we'll look at the second stage.

Now we've got some cooling numbers. We kind of go through the motions here and follow everything over remember that Linux uses approach, temperature for refrigeration charging, so we're running about a four degree approach right now. That seems a little low. I think.

Usually they want anywhere from the six to eight range, and you know what you're working on I'm looking at a chart right now, and it says the first stage should have a six degree approach. Temp in the second stage should have a seven. It says an approach: temperature grader indicates an undercharge and approach temperature less than indicates an overcharge, not necessarily the case, but it looks like we're kind of stabilizing out we'll just watch it for a little while we can go ahead and move on down. The line looks like you've got a 62 drywall 47 lat Bowl, rather cool inside 14 degree.

Temps split! That's not that great units putting out approximately eighty four thousand BTUs, and I don't have any of the other measurements set up right now, so we're gon na. Let it run and stabilize out we can look at the troubleshooting and showing that's not stable yet, but even if I clear the not stable it says, low load, which is very accurate, return duct leakage suspected that's a great point, because my outdoor air damper is open. So that would indicate a return, duct leakage. It looks like we just cycled off on a compressor to condenser.

Maybe dirty system is so there's a lot of faults there, so we're gon na reset and let the system stabilize out and okay. So I knew I did move the few things. I moved my supply air probe to the river to the supply duct instead of on top, I also closed the outdoor air damper for the return side, I still have a very low temperature split, so what I ended up doing other than that, though, I'm looking somewhat Okay, if we go to the troubleshooting we're saying which I definitely know, we have returned Africa's, not probabl condenser. Maybe birdie idea things on all right, we're calling for which temperature calling for six degrees, six degrees approach, which is pretty good for this unit.

Everything else is looking pretty good. I'm gon na go down and inspect the return air girls. I have a very strong feeling that they're very troubleshoot play within that point. Look at that return.

I think it's a dirty to say the least, having some air flow problems. It's pretty bad, so we've obviously found like I showed you guys, definitely turn it off flood up. But before I clean those, what I'm noticing is that we have higher than normal. First temperatures really high.

So we need to look at the condenser and see if we've got a dirty condenser okay. So what I want to do is come on over here looks like both of my condenser fan motors are running, not rejecting very much heat. I condense with a little bit dirty actually horribly, but yeah. It's a little bit dirty, so we're gon na go ahead and get this condenser cleaned up and then we will - and we may need to adjust our outdoor ambient target to I'll check that before I jump in here, but we definitely see some dirt, so we're gon Na need to clean in this thing, typical of these guys, the coil cleaning company has been trashing this coil, but I'm going to test my indoor air or my outer air temp right here, mind you! This is my second stage in here.

So, even though it was 70 something degrees over here, this is more in the shade. So we got a test right here to to make sure that we got an accurate outdoor air temp, but we may need to adjust our targets. My targets still pretty accurate, we're gon na call it about 74 degrees. So well, I can't remember what I had it set for 70 or 74 will adjust that target outdoor measurements.

I have it set for 70, so we'll change it to 74 see if that changes. Much it doesn't really change much we're still running high head pressure, high suction pressure, low superheat - maybe I suck fun but remember we don't use sub-point on this weekís approach tab, so we're running really high approached in so at this point, I'm gon na go ahead and Clean the condenser on this guy check that second stage, which is kind of concerns me because well we'll see I'll clean. The condenser then check the first and second stage again and then I'm gon na go ahead and clean the return and then we'll go from there. We're still looking like potential overcharge to me.

I know we have a kind of beat-up second-stage condenser too, so I got to be cautious about that. So what we're gon na do is I'm actually gon na. Let some gas out I've got a recovery cylinder here. That's empty, so I'm gon na push as much vapor into this cylinder and see if that makes a difference if it does - and I can't get it loan up, then I'll recover the charged with actual machine, but I'm trying to be lazy right now, just pump it Into the tank at this point, so I'm gon na go ahead and open up my vapor port.

This is an R 22 tank. It already has some r22 paper in it, we're just going to pump in what we can so wasn't taking enough refrigerant into the cylinder. So what I did was, I turned off the second stage, condition freshmen mind you, I'm just pushing vapor into here right now, so I just drove the head pressure up currently right now: the saturation temperature, my refrigerant, is 100 and this tank is about 80 degrees. So we're still pushing vapor into this tank.

It's not going to push a lot into here, but getting my weekend, it didn't really make too much of a difference. You can see my I'm gon na go ahead and recover this charge. Okay, so I'm just recovering the charge real quick once we get it recovered, then we'll know a little bit more. What's going on here for overcharge.

So the way I have my recovery machine set up, I've got the happy on mega 4. Ok, ok! So I've got 2 core Google tools, the Schrader's course removed. I've got 3/8 hoses, blue and red going to the mega flow manifold and then a 3/8 hose going to the tank and a 3/8 hose going to the recovery cylinder and those hoses have quarter-inch connections. So there is a slight restriction there, but there's really no way of getting around that, but it's still, I find it to go faster.

This way you can certainly do it without all this fancy stuff I've. Just over the years invested in this stuff, I used to use the ABI on stuff for vacuuming, but I don't anymore because I use the true-blue kit for vacuum unit finder to be pretty good. You know a little difficult to set up, but the true blue stuff is really fast and very, very high quality, so I'm getting ready to weigh the charge back in I've got my cylinder up there. I've got my ball valve on my hose right here and I'm charging through the core removal tool because it has an access port.

I'm charging through my high side. First, I'm gon na go ahead, put as much gas as I can in through the high side, so scale of zero down. Looking for 11 pounds, 8 ounces for the most part, it's taking everything that I could it took about seven pounds. So I went ahead and shut it off at the ball, but I really liked using this because then you can just simply switch it over to the low side and then we're ready to charge on the low side.

So I'm going to start the system back up. Put it into test mode and then see what we can do up in the air. I'm low-pressure really quick, so we're just gon na keep on charging it. So we get to 11 pounds eight ounces.

I have a feeling we're gon na be a little bit short. Actually one else, but we'll see laying in the charge there was about two pounds: shy of gas. What I ended up noticing, I'm surprised, measured quick, saw something that I didn't see bye, so it was under charge. A measure Cook was saying that it does also say that my condensers dirty and I believe that - and it's not so much - that it's dirty it's of the fins - are all bent up on my condenser.

So my fans right here are really bent up in here and they just descended. So this is just something we're gon na have to deal with and I'll bring it up to the customer, but this unit is working a lot better. Now we have better performance out of it. If I can get it screen, doesn't like my brother plus in we got a much better temperature split.

We don't have a return. I believe I remember reading learning about the right amount of you to use on this unit. We're gon na call this one good. I don't know why this first compressor was unplugged, but once I plugged it back in and then corrected the phase, it's working fine! So that's pretty much it on this one.

So hopefully that made sense to you guys. So you know sometimes we come up on those weird things. I don't remember disconnecting that compressor. I don't know who disconnected it.

I don't know if it was one of us. I know this particular chain has been using other people too. I have a feeling this was another contractor that did this, but regardless I tested everything I didn't just hook it back up and flip the switch. I mean I did my due diligence to make sure that we didn't have a direct short or something going on, and I just wanted to prove that we actually had a bad compressor.

Okay, so the call was a no cooling call, and so I went up and found one of the compressors was disconnected. It wasn't marked. You know in a situation like that, if, if you do have to disconnect a compressor, you know it's best that you go ahead and mark it. So that way I could have just if it was me, I would have taken a paint pen and marked on it.

You know compressor locked up or compressor intermittently going off on overload. You know something just to let the next person know: okay, so anyways connected that first stage, compressor back up and really didn't have to do. Much to that, and then you know found a few other little issues here and there returns were dirty. We actually cleaned returns on many ACS.

What we were there that day, I had another tech there with me and we were probably there for going through this a/c and going through all the other ICS. We were probably there for six to seven hours that day between two guys and I you know going through cleaning stuff and you know just just basically making sure everything was working properly and we did do work on other ACS too so but yeah. So then. The second stage - and it was just kind of acting kind of wonky.

So after I tried to let some gas out into that recovery cylinder, I just decided to go to manually, remove all the refrigerant out of the unit, and then I found that was actually a little bit short on gas. So I went ahead and topped off the charge and I brought up to the customer like look the condenser starting to deteriorate, we can't straighten it out anymore and we do have refrigerant leaks and then I just basically told them. You know. I highly suggest that you guys consider replacing this unit and that's where we're at on that one, so I think they're getting quotes from the manufacturer.

Unfortunately, this is one of those big national chains where they buy everything themselves. So all that I do is install the equipment for him, so they'll get quotes from the manufacturer and then they'll ask me to quote the RIP. You know the install and all that good stuff so we'll see where that goes. But hey.

I really appreciate you guys. Taking the time to watch this, please leave me some feedback down in the bottom of the video and also any of the tools that I used I'll put links down on the bottom. So that way for those of you that want to know what tools they are. Where to get them and all that good stuff I'll have the links down in the show notes of this video really appreciate you guys taking the time to watch this, and we will catch you guys on the next one.

Okay.