I'm working on a Linux l-series unit right now and I actually wasn't called on this air conditioner. I was actually called on this one. I found a broken belt fixed it units working, but I kind of walked around and I noticed something I noticed that these outside air filters were kind of sucking in so I pulled them out. Oh and the other thing was on the prodigy board, it was saying bad enthalpy sensor, so I opened up the enthalpy sensor of the you know, metal mesh filters that there and I found that the enthalpy sensor right here was shorted out.

Okay, if you guys don't know when you get enthalpy sensor problems on these Linux l-series units, it's from people rinsing the metal mesh filters off majority of the time, because that enthalpy sensor is sitting right there and the metal mesh filters when they get. When someone comes by, you know an old school used to rinse them from the outside. Just real quick! Well, you can't do that anymore. So the sensor shorted out, so I changed the outdoor air sensor, I'm gon na bolt it down in a minute I'm still diagnosing, but I noticed something, though, is that my outdoor air dampers are jammed open to those filters or plug solid.

So these outdoor air dampers have been open for a very long time, so I go through, and this is just like one thing after another, I go through the prodigy board and I find that the economizer was never installed. Okay, that means, if you guys, don't know, sometimes these economizers come shipped loose and you have to program them in the prodigy controller. I've done a lot of startups on these things and if you don't program them right, then they just sit there point. But what's confusing me is that that economizer was never installed.

Why, then, are we having a totally open damper, which is confusing me, so I go through the process of installing the economizer. You know just basically programming it setting my settings la-dee-da and started back up and nothing happens so I grab the damper and it closes by hand. So I come over here and actually notice. If you look at this, that's actually moving inside the actuator motor.

This is not tight on the block or the set. You know. What do you want to call that the pain coming through? Is you know? Basically, it's not tightened down on it and the economizer is opening strictly due to the airflow. You know.

So basically, it push these damper, shut and open these dampers, so they're just sucking outside air into this building into this kitchen instead of recirculating. Now I'm gon na want to suck a little bit outside here, but not so much so I don't know if this actuator motor is bad or not. I'm gon na go through and tighten this guy down, so I was able to get in there. Okay, so I was able to get in there and get that tightened up and it turned a lot.

A little allen. Sad script got it torqued down. Now I came over here and I tried to program this thing and then I just was going through the settings and I realized that my units not occupied in my economizer dampers, aren't gon na work. Unless I'm occupied see nobody well.

First off you see this they've got y1 and y2 jumped out. I don't know why they did that, but I'm not gon na change that at the moment, but there's no signal going to OCP with no signal going to OCP the unit. Theoretically, doesn't think that there's anybody in the so we've got to run a jumper. I typically do it from G to OCP, but you could do it from R to OCP.

It just needs a 24 volt signal. Now, let's say, for instance, we were using a building automation system. We have to have something to say that it's time to turn on, let's think about how this unit works. This particular restaurant is using a conventional thermostat downstairs, but I could program this unit.

I could disconnect these thermostat wires and program this unit to run in a standalone mode. Okay or we can use it on a building automation system, but in standalone mode. It's going to use the sensors that's built into the air-conditioner and that's going to make this unit run it's gon na. Basically, I can set the settings inside this board and say I wanted to maintain 74 degrees and it's gon na do that whenever the building is occupied, but if we do it in standalone mode, we need to have something telling us that they're here, so you can Do a time clock you can do a switch, you can do building automation system.

That basically just gives a signal to say hey it's time to turn on and then the unit takes over all control. Okay. So that's the whole point of the OCP or the occupied mode. So what I like to do like I said you just need a 24 volt signal.

I like to jump from G to OCP and here's my logic. My thermostat downstairs is programmed to automatically turn on and turn off. It has an occupied start time and an unoccupied start time, most kitchens that you're going to come across or restaurants. The building balance the air balance is going to be dependent on our tu units.

Okay, now they typically have a make-up air unit, but for fresh air requirements. Here's my make up air unit I'm coming around make for unit right here, typically will balance out the building, but they tend to run it a little slow. So that way they can bring fresh air into the dining room through the rtu units, okay, via the economizer dampers and the minimum outside air position. So, most restaurants, we want our indoor fans on our rtu units to run whenever the building is occupied to satisfy indoor air quality requirements.

Now this is a Southern California thing. You know some states where you have extremely humid climates. They may not do that. Okay, this isn't like and all be all kind of a thing.

Okay, this is just how the restaurants operate, where I'm at so when the thermostat downstairs sends a call up here to say: hey it's occupied and it's time to turn on the fans. My logic is well: if I just jumper from G to OCP, then the unit will know it's occupied time. Okay, so what I'm getting at to is is that I was over here trying to troubleshoot why I couldn't get the economizer damper and I was about to start diagnosing voltage problems with the actuator motor and then I just realized, there's no occupied signal. Now we may still have a problem with the actuator motor, but we've got to get that occupied signal calling first, so we're gon na go ahead and run a jumper from G to OCP, and then I bet you anything my economizer or actuator motors going to start Working open up to my minimum positions, so I'm back out here today I've got a new actuator.

I actually already installed it actuators right here. I've installed it I've tested it it's working properly. What I'm gon na do now is just secure the wiring secure that enthalpy sensor. I want to show you guys a little trick here, so this old actuator had a cord and it was secured with these flag connectors that poke down through the holes.

Okay, they were a zip tie, all right and they're difficult, because sometimes you can get some of them out and sometimes you can. I think I broke one of them, but the problem is once you cut them, then you no longer have a set time, but the cool thing is that you can then just feed another zip tie through the top. But basically, you know just feed it down through there. So you as long as you didn't break the connector, which I cut off the old, zip tie, piece and I'll use the little clicker thing in there to feed a new zip tie through there.

Just a little tip I'll show you guys once I get it installed, so this one I'm talking about, you can get it to pop back down through there and then you can just feed the zip tie through it'll do something I mean it's not going to be Perfect, but so long all I'm trying to do is get the cord out of the way of the action. You know that dampers, so I've got some new metal mesh filters installed. All the panel's put back on everything secured the outdoor air, damper networks or economizer, but we're using the minimum position on it. So what I explained to you guys on this one about the OCP.

I noticed that they're having that same problem with all the other units, these things were never properly started up. None of these units were so none of these units, economizers or minimum outs or air dampers are working. This one I jumped out the other day. We've got the actuator actually moving a chasey and get it so that way.

Remember I told you I'm going to jump from G to OCP, give it an occupied signal and then I'm gon na go check every outdoor air damper and then we're gon na. Do a Creed building balance. I am NOT a certified air Balance professional, but they need more outdoor air. The maker bears working the belts tight filters are clean, so we're gon na compensate with the ACS and just open up the outdoor air dampers 10-15 percent and see if that balances the building out and go from there.

We're also gon na add minimum outside air into the dining room area, get them fresh air to the customers too. So they've never even met fresh air standards here for the customers, it's kind of crazy. I can't remember if I've showed this to you guys or not. I know I posted this on Instagram, but look at this someone gutted this unit, the board - I I don't even know where to start on this one: they gutted it and wired it directly to the Trent thermostat wires.

I've already told facilities of this restaurant about this. Like I don't, I don't even know where to start like I mean wires are cut, who you know they asked me to quote it and I'm like. I don't even know how to quote this. It's just you know.

I don't even know why someone would bypass the board like that. That's just stupid, I mean if the board's bad, replace it his customers not afraid to spend money. I just I don't underst so this one right here. I can't get the outdoor air damper, opening or closing, because they've got the board completely bypassed.

So I don't even know if the heating works on this thing, we'll find out when fall, heating. Startup comes so yeah as a mess, so anyways I've got them all the jumpers put in all the boards. All the actuators are opening now so now. What I'm gon na do is open them up about ten percent or so and then go downstairs and check the building balance.

Again I told you guys, I'm not a certified air balancer, I'm just a stupid mechanic that you know knows just enough to get in trouble. So what I'm gon na do is go into the kitchen, the kitchen AC. We need to open up quite a bit both kitchen ACS and then we'll go to the back door. Close all the exterior doors of the building go to the back door and open it up and see if we've got a positive air pressure at the door once it's opened or a negative air pressure.

Basically, you want the building to be slightly positive. You'd rather push just a tiniest bit of air out of the building, then suck any air in and again I've explained it before. But you know it. This is a kitchen, so the exhaust fans are running and they're pulling air out of the building.

So we've got to put air back in to make up for what the exhaust fans do. So they have a giant make up air unit right here and I will investigate that a little bit more, but it is running it belts are tight, doesn't look like anything's been changed, so we're going to yeah just go check that balance and then go from there. Okay, so service call on an air-conditioner, not working, found out how to broken belt, replace the belt did a little walkthrough on all their other ACS found a bunch of problems as far as economizer actuators, not working okay, the main one that I made the video about Had a bad actuator motor and the actuator itself was loose, it wasn't grabbing the the gears of the economizer damper and then on top of that the economizer was never programmed, and then I found out on all six of their other. A sees the economizers have never been programmed since day one.

I believe the serial numbers on these units indicate that these ACS are four years old. So this just blows my mind, because how did this building pass inspection? How did it pass air balance? How did it pass final inspection for the permits to install the ACS who is responsible for doing startups on them? It just blows my mind this stuff that can get by it's kind of irritating. You know it's it's just silly, I think, but whatever I should just chill out about that, so replace the actuator set up the economizers on every AC. Like I told you guys, I did just kind of a crude building balance.

Okay, and what I mean by that is, is I'm not a certified professional? I just did what I knew could get them into the ballpark I'll, give the customer the option and I'll tell them to go ahead and call an air balance company to have them come out and certify the building. I doubt that they'll do that. They'll, probably just leave it with what I left it at, but you know I leave that in their lap and let them make that decision. Okay.

As far as the air balance goes. What I do is close all the exterior doors of the building, including the roof hatch, make sure that they stay closed. Okay. This can also be difficult to do when there's a lot of customers in the building, because, if they're coming in and out of the front doors, this throws your test off.

Okay, so with all the doors to the building shut, all the exhaust fans running all the ACS running all the indoor fans on the ACS running, then what you want to do is go to a door without a fly fan. Okay, if you use the back door, you need to disable the fly fan so that way, it's not messing up your test. Take a piece of paper. Take a matchstick.

This is just a crude way of doing this again. Okay, there's proper ways to do it with with with a manometer and testing air pressure, okay, but the really easy, quick way to do it is just take a piece of paper light it on fire blow it out and just watch which way the smoke goes. Okay, you just slightly want to see the smoke going out of the building. You do not want to see the smoke coming into the building.

You can also do this in the front doors. You also have to be careful with an air balance, because some kitchens are balanced different than the rest of the building. Okay, sometimes they have doors that seal off the kitchen, and you don't want the kitchen air going out into the dining room or vice-versa. You don't want a lot of dining room air being sucked into the kitchen okay, it can affect everything, so there's definitely a need for a professional air balance company to come in here and do this properly.

Okay, but like I said I just did a really quick crude air balance and that's pretty much it guys. Okay, I just want to say thank you very much for watching my videos. I really appreciate you guys, subscribing to my channel. I said it in my last video, but I'm pushing 3100 subscribers now, so it's awesome guys.

I really appreciate that. Leave me a comment down in the comment section. Give me a thumbs up. Give me some feedback.

Send me an email, hvac, our videos at gmail.com. You know you there's all kinds of avenues to reach out to me. You can go to the show notes of the video you can see all my social media, Instagram Facebook. You can see my patreon page.

Sometimes I put information inside there. I know I've told you guys this before, but I'm gon na start leaving links to the products that I use inside my videos. Okay, I haven't started doing that yet, but that's that's in the works. Okay, I'm gon na start doing that, and you know that's pretty much it guys.

Okay, thanks again and we'll see you guys next time.