I replaced a failed VFD on a Lennox package unit after talking with technical support we also turned off the automatic bypass feature to try and prevent the drive from failing again.
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This video is brought to you by spore'ln quality, integrity and tradition. We've got a Linux inner gents unit that we need to put a new VFD on. I've talked about this before because I've done a repair on this, where I had two bad capacitors for the condenser fan motors took a while to get the, but now so we open this guy up. It's not something to mess with, so we're gon na go ahead and get this thing taken apart and get started on it.
So I've powered down the unit, I'm still gon na verify that the disconnect switch is working. I haven't done that yet, but so opening up the drive, this drive is supposed to come program, so I shouldn't have to do anything. The Linux does have some instructions in here and if you do have to do any programming, then just call tech, support and they'll walk you right through it. Sometimes it might say it in here, but now it actually doesn't.
So it should be a plug-and-play situation. We've just got in and out on the drive right here and it looks like a control thing, but we've got to make sure many of the wires are burnt or anything. So I'm just gon na follow the incoming wires going to the top of this disconnects whit. I mean this contactor and we've got no voltage.
There check the other side, I'm going to check a bunch of different various places to make sure I'm not mistaken. In my incoming power, I'm gon na check the bottom of it. Nothing, nothing. Nothing so looks like.
I need to change the battery on my meter too, but um yeah, no voltage so we're good to get started on this thing. It's very important when you're working with these drives - and I've said this many times before - that you do not mix up the incoming and the outgoing voltage. If you cross them, this exact thing will happen. The drive will explode, so you cannot cross the incoming and the outgoing power sources on these drives.
You will be in for a very big surprise, as I'm working in here just kind of getting things ready and unscrewing this Drive. I look over and I notice this electrical short right here and then I start investigating and check this out yeah. I look shady we're gon na have to repair that too. I don't know what that plug is for, but we'll get that fixed up, so they actually make like a whole point that comes out.
That makes it a little bit easier, so pulled the whole plate out bolted up the new drive. It's just got some covers on it and notice that they they have wiring right here, saying or labeling saying only the motor goes here. Okay do not connect incoming line voltage, and this is exactly what I'm talking about. You don't want to mess this up, so I'm gon na start disassembling.
This old Drive, which is right here. It's got all the wires and we're just gon na go wire for wire and then we'll get it figured out. We're gon na try to stay with the same colors that goes pink, yellow, blue, pink, yellow blue I'm gon na watch out for straggler wires again, not that it doesn't matter on other voltages, but on 480 volts 460 volts. It can jump so if you've got straggling wires hanging out going next to other straggling wires. You can have electrical short, so it'll, be very cautious, very, very cautious, so pink, yellow blue is Mike nation. I like to torque them down and then back it out and then go back in you'll get a good tightening out of it. Okay, there's they're gon na be careful too, because you can can break these terminals. Okay, super nice and tight.
There better be my ground wire, okay, so get to these guys right here. We're gon na have to get these out music like they have like little pushpins or something little Clips. Let you push on maybe right here so yellow goes to yeah. If you push on it, it comes out.
Okay, cool, so yellow goes to interesting, nice and snug. I'd like to see it going a little bit more. There you go. Yellow goes to to brown goes to five.
There we go yeah, so they're going in there, nice and good Brown goes to five purple goes to B as in boy, so you just want to line these up wire for wire shouldn't be a big deal. Sure one of the cool things about the Lennox units is they actually have the letter of where it goes on. The VFD drive stamped on the wire too. So that's still I like to do it line for line do great as the SD and these jumpers.
They stay where they're at they're already on there and then pink goes to STF, st okay. So now we're hooked up we're ready to start figuring out how to plug this drive back in and get it all set up. So I should be able to go ahead and put this cover back on. I can figure out how to clip it back in there we go and then this front cover should be able to go on cool.
That's on that's safe. Now we need to get it hooked back into the unit, so I figured out that the burnt wire was actually the plug going to the motor, so we got to cut those and splice them. So it's going to be this connector to this connector and I'm gon na have to find some room because it's kind of tight and we need to splice them. So I ended up using butt connectors that way I wasn't pulling on them with wire nuts.
You know wire nuts are nicer, because if someone ever had to bypass this they could easily take it off, but there's so limited space, and I don't have this gauge wire to go ahead and do a splice point. So we went ahead and did butt connectors. I'm gon na go ahead and tape them up really good. You always want to be careful because sometimes when you're crimping them, you can break the jacket of the plastic right here and then it can be a hazard so but anyways, it's good practice to always tape them up whether it's wire nuts, any kind of connectors you're Using so we'll get them taped up and then we'll power this unit on taped up nice and good, obviously, the other one had shorted out against the side of the panel right here.
So I made sure that I zip tied these up so that way, they're out of the way and they're not gon na rub on the panel or anything like that. I'm just gon na do a visual inspection in here it looks like there's a mess of thermostat, wires and stuff, but I'm not gon na spend a ton of time. I might clean up some of it, but get them away from the discharge lines and stuff, but uh yeah, so I'll get ready to turn this thing on here in just a minute. So some last minute checks before I power this guy up, I'm just verifying 100 % that I do not have line voltage hooked up to the load side of this drive. The other thing that you want to be careful about is this unit has a bypass contactor, which I believe is this. So if the unit senses that the drive has failed, it'll bypass it automatically and you have to be careful because if the bypass contactor is welded shut or pulled in then when I power it on, I could apply power to the root. It could just be a problem, so you got to be careful another thing whenever you have a VFD drive like this, you never want to push in contactors, because if this one's energized and you push this one in it can be a problem. So you got to be cautious and again I need to verify.
I was just following their legend, which is right here that the S 42 or K - OH, is this contactor and they're, saying that this is, I believe, the bypass, but I just need to verify that just checking everything last minute checks before I power it up. Gon na be very careful and standing out of the way when I power this on just to be safe, don't want any big surprises, I'm gon na, let it powerup without my face getting in there, wait for things to turn on. So it says VFD bypass, engaged on the scrolling marquee, which my phone is not going to show it. So we need to disengage that all right, so we are running properly now.
So when I started it up the unit wasn't an automatic VFD bypass. I can't show you on the marquee, because my phone won't pick it up, but I went ahead and talked to technical support and I asked them how to disengage that VFD bypass and what we did was. He had me go through the settings and changed the VFD bypass to manual. His theory was that automatic bypass, maybe something might be happening in there - that was causing it to pull in when it shouldn't have pulled in because, if both of these contactors pulling at the same time, that's when you can have a problem other than that everything checks Out, okay, my unit has 487 volts, which you know is within tolerance.
Everything else is looking good. We now have a VFD reading. I don't know if it's gon na pick it out. We are reading 59 Hertz.
Both stages are calling so we're looking good we're gon na go ahead and call this quit, so I'm gon na verify motor rotation and then that's gon na be it so. This was just a walkthrough of how I go about my process of changing components in general, but I mean this VFD. You know I take this approach to everything and I'm sure, if you guys have been watching my videos, you guys realize that I take a very methodical approach to doing things. Okay, when I, when I start a project, a process or whatever I like to think as much as I can before about the things that can go wrong and how I can be as efficient as possible. So that way, when I'm doing it, you know I prevent mistakes and also I get it done as fast as possible. For instance, you know paying attention to how the old drive was wired up or taking the drive out and wire him and up side by side. Yes, I could figure it out and yes, I could just unwire everything and follow the schematic, but you know I like to make my job as easy as possible. I don't want to have to work hard.
Okay, we just follow the simple processes and if we in doing that, you actually learn how things work and you can you know better yourself. Basically, so when I call technical support, for instance, you know I asked them, you know if I, if I'm curious about something I've got them on the phone, ask them. You know hey. How does this work? How does this VFD bypass that you guys have in this unit the automatic VFD bypass work and I'm in my head trying to figure out what made this drive go? Bad and in my conversation with technical support, they kind of told me that they think I mean this isn't what they said, but what I understood it as there's a possibility that the automatic bypass feature that's built into these Linux units is what's causing these drives to Go bad: this is a very common thing on these linux units I mean it drives in general, have a hard time, they're always installed in the worst places, but when you have a drive blown up like this, it's very likely that someone sent power to the load Side of that drive and it causes the capacitors inside to kind of explode, and it's a big deal.
So, in talking with tech support, I asked him about the bypass and how that works, and basically, if the unit senses that the dry is not working properly, it automatically applies the bypass in what it does is it sends power to the bypass contactor? Well, if you energized the drive contactor and the bypass contactor at the same time, you're gon na send power to the wrong side of that drive, and so, with talking to tech, support, they kind of said. You know it's probably best to go ahead and put the bypass into manual mode, meaning that the unit will not automatically switch. You know and bypass it and in my head, I'm thinking. Okay.
Well, maybe there's something whatever senses that the drive is not working. Maybe that's malfunctioning and causing the unit to try to bypass it when power is already being applied to the drive and then you get the big boom and then the unit dies again. That's just my logic. I don't know if there's anything behind it, that's just how things work in my head, but other than that guys, there's really not a whole lot. With this I mean this was just kind of a simple component change like for like, but you guys, you know when I film this video, I'm not really taking any extra time. This is how long this takes me. I mean I literally go through all this. In my head, as if I turned off the camera, I'd probably still be talking to myself, just in the same way.
That's how I I rationalize things, that's how I troubleshoot is just by verbally saying them, and then it just kind of helps my brain to comprehend. Maybe my brain is kind of slow or something like that, but that's just how I roll and that's you know how I go about doing this stuff. Alright, hopefully you guys get something from this, whether it's just a way not to approach things, or maybe it's a way to approach things. You know, let me know in the comments.
I really appreciate you guys taking the time to watch these videos. You know other than that guys. I will catch you on the next one. Oh and don't forget that I always do live streams Monday night's work permitting, meaning that, if work lets me, I do my live streams.
5:00 p.m. Pacific time, where I answer all these questions and stuff. So leave me some comments down in the bottom of this video and other than that we'll catch you guys on the next one: okay.
Just for those who are not aware, those vfd’s can hold a lethal charge up to 5 minutes. I personally usually wait about 15 minutes to touch any wires when changing one out. The manual always has the info about how long to wait when changing a vfd. Don’t want anyone out there learning the hard way
You are starting to look very tired my friend. You need a vacation! Thanks for another interesting video for us HVACR enthusiasts Service area Kanata??
Throw that skew driver almost eletrcuted myself with chisel driver easy to absent mindendly use on live circuit
At my warehouse that I take care of I have a strapping machine that has vfd drives. It is also plc driven. This machine is what has taught me a lot about a/c voltage. The vfd's control the motors that feed the strap and tension the strap around the product. In my case we strap tires for the manufacturers ford,chevy, etc. I thank you for showing how you replaced it and using tech support. If I could teach someone about any trade, i would say don't be afraid to call tech support. Being self taught on a lot of things I would say that calling tech support will save you a headache and time. Trying to look things up for an hr when you can get the answer in a few mins is priceless. I found that if you know how to use a multimeter these guys can walk u through about anything electronic or electrical. Thank you for the great videos.
I suppose the VFD feeding one phase shorted to ground is all that it takes to takes to spoil it's day. Ron W4BIN
CRIMPS ON THE WIRES DO IT PROPERLY!!!
Simple formula: voltage equals the air gap length in centimeters times 30,000.
So 3000V per mm. I would not worry about it, saying that coming from Europe. Although it is good practice to not cut strands and crimp connectors.
But I would not recommend becoming a part of the circuit hah!
Why is it a Mitsubishi VFD?
I have changed the same Mitsu VFD in a York. F700 I think….. Service area Nepean??
Very well done !
Ever heard of rubber duck debugging?
Why is it 480V, seems a weird voltage.
Thinking about it, im guessing its a safety measure for the PCB. 🤔
Wire termination is your friend 😉
Your troubleshooting procedures should be the gold standard
Some VFDs will have stored power in the drive…They power down after short time main power off.. i also use a volt stick on the drive also..
That’s a WHOLE LOT of Volts!!
Just thinking you didn’t mention a lock out on the bypass
Shouldn’t there be a lockout to prevent that on the contactor ?
Remember that you had to clean the coils on that unit? Are you in Barrhaven ?
this green push plugs on the vfd are bord plugs you can pull one out, intert the wires and plug it back in
So… why didn't those wires have any ferrules or terminals on them?
I would think that there should be interlock on bypass contactor that would take vfd out of the circuit. But it looks that manufacturers like to make better margin and leave that safety to software.
i remember that you could pull out the entire green wire bar, the one with the push releases. Are you in Ottawa ?
I have the same screwdriver
a bit late to the party maybe, but why are those contactors not wired like a logic XOR gate?
basically like the cooler/defrost interlock, except on both contactors? If I understand those things correctly, that way they'd only allow one to be energized, and never both… Are you in Orleans ?
I'm surprised that those run and bypass contractors are not electrically interlocked. A VFD out put is not a sine wave – if you ever look at a vfd output on an O scope it will scare you to death. A vfd not only varies the frequency of the output it also vary the voltage – so if your speed is 50% your motor will be turning at 30 Hertz your voltage will also be 50% – so you can see what would happen if you bypassed the drive that was running at a reduced speed not only would you be closing two electrical systems into each other at different frequencies they would also be operating at different voltages – and to add more destruction to the mix there is the phase relationship difference that the drive creates – when a drive takes its input voltage it converts it to DC- then the drive fires the triacs according to what the drive software is calling for – even if both systems are operating at 60 Hertz the drive input and output will not be Synronized – the more electrical degrees apart the two systems are determines the amount of fault current that will be generated. That is what blew up that drive I'm sure. I have seen huge breakers launch out of switch gear and hit the wall because phase rotation was not correct on a 4000 hp generator that generates 2.5 megawatts of power at 4160 volts. What they have designed is a bomb waiting to blow up in somebody's face. I would disable that bypass relay so there would be no way it could supply power to the output of the drive – I would mark the phase rotation and disconnect the power to the bypass relay – then if you need it you could disconnect the input from the drive and reconnect the bypass relay. And if you need the bypass relay I would also disconnect the output of the drive – you will be backfeeding into the drive when your bypass relay is energized… judging from this video I would not let any employees mess with it. Everyone needs to understand exactly what forces are in play with two out of phase power sources… if you want to verify what I'm saying next time you get around one of these drives put your meter on voltage and put one lead on A phase input and the other lead on A phase output – if they were in sinc the meter will read 0 volts – any voltage reading indicates how far out of sync the input and output are – with a little math you can figure out how many electrical degrees out of sync the two systems are. Good luck
Gotta give you props on how you went about terminating the VFD. Basically the opposite of careless. Refreshing to see a tech soo methodical and conscientious about his work . These days the big push is "do it faster, just get it done, who cares how it looks" I refuse to work that way and it's good to see someone else apparently thinking along the same lines. Service area Barrhaven??
Smarter not harder Are you in Kanata ?
Interesting
Can someone explain why you’d need a vfd for 59hz? When standard line voltage is 60hz?
you did reveal something, but editing must take time
Thank your for this Lennox video,,, i and probably most people of my generation , feel a bit nervous when it comes to working on units laden with modern electronic , inveters and such,,,,i know many of these units give a fault code which tells you what is wrong,, …….but….,,,,,,,
Enjoyable video …..
Chris, Nice job !! One thing, when you were transfering the wires on the green blocks ( wire for wire) those green blocks are called Euro-blocks, you should be able to pop the top of each section, there are pins under each block, and they plug into the base of each block, It's a time saver.
it's so cute little baby vfd, you like me
It is finally starting to get cold 🥶 Service area Orleans??
I wonder if that short on the output of the VFD was what turned it into popcorn.
I always talk to my self when do trouble shooting, so its pretty normal 😂
Interesting design. Lennox should have used a reversing contactor setup. If one side is on there is a Electrical interlock using Auxilliary contacts, along with a Mechanical interlock between the contactors. Good practice with the 480 connections. I take a pictures using a cell phone of the connections at different angles as a backup. Regarding arc flash if low peak fuses are used with proper wiring I am more secure. With a breaker then watch out. Breakers can put out 12 cycles before tripping. Low peak fuses open at the first 1/3 of a cycle if shorted. They are also expensive. 🙂
Still waiting for the Volunteer Fire Department to arrive!
I really dont know why on earth a VFD is needed in a unit like that. Is it some sort of eco code or something? Also IMO Lenox should be using interlocked contactors that make it impossible for the computer to pull both in at the same time.
Bypass contactors should be both electrically and mechanically interlocked especially if used around a VFD – secondly is it possible that the original VFD was actually not faulty at all and the problem the motor supply cables that where shorted on the cover ?? Most VFD are very well protected for shorted output.
Was the replacement part made by Mitsubishi Electric?
You do some good work. However instead of using electrical tape on those butt connectors it would be better to use adhesive lined heat shrink. I also would have cut those wires back so that the insulation came all the way up to the screw terminals.
I'm going to lose some sleep after seeing those white cable ties being uncut.
Yuck. Mitsubishi VFDs suck. Up there with Hitachi and Toshiba.
Hey Chris
Are you okay?
You look really sick/busted
why did they not use wire ferrules?
I do have a question. Are outdoor condenser units on a drinks fridge/cool room suppose to produce / blow condensation and therefore create mould on the surrounding area?
Was waiting for a video today thank you!