Eric Mele replaces a market condensing fan motor and describes the process. His process applies to other large condenser fan motors as well.
The fan motor connects near the top of the condenser unit, quite close to the fan blade. In this video, Eric uses an attached metal flex connector to route the wires away from the fan. He has also removed the flag terminal ends, as they had worn out and made a lousy connection.
Eric loosens the bolts on the motor and takes out the lock washer; he performs the latter with a magnet. He used a 5/8" wrench to spread the belly band apart and make it easier to insert the new fan motor. Some motors have screws to stop the insertion from going too far, but other motors do not; it is up to you to determine which type you have so that you can prevent the motor from falling in and hitting the coil.
After Eric hooks up the high-voltage wiring, he sets the motor to "high volt." If he were dealing with a low-voltage application, he would wire and set the motor accordingly. He then puts the cover back on and makes sure the wires are out of the fan blade's way.
When Eric puts the fan blade on, he protects the shaft, puts the fan blade on in the correct direction, and uses the keyway to determine the fan blade's position. When possible, you want the fan to sit in the middle of the keyway, not at the edge. Then, Eric tightens the bolts, paints over the shaft to make it stainless, and puts the shroud back on. However, he notices that the fan blade rests too close to the shroud and must lower the blade again.
Before you finish any job, you will want to check your electrical components as Eric does. Check your fuse placement, the amperage on all three power legs, and the fan blade rotation.
Read all the tech tips, take the quizzes,
and find our handy calculators at https://www.hvacrschool.com/.
The fan motor connects near the top of the condenser unit, quite close to the fan blade. In this video, Eric uses an attached metal flex connector to route the wires away from the fan. He has also removed the flag terminal ends, as they had worn out and made a lousy connection.
Eric loosens the bolts on the motor and takes out the lock washer; he performs the latter with a magnet. He used a 5/8" wrench to spread the belly band apart and make it easier to insert the new fan motor. Some motors have screws to stop the insertion from going too far, but other motors do not; it is up to you to determine which type you have so that you can prevent the motor from falling in and hitting the coil.
After Eric hooks up the high-voltage wiring, he sets the motor to "high volt." If he were dealing with a low-voltage application, he would wire and set the motor accordingly. He then puts the cover back on and makes sure the wires are out of the fan blade's way.
When Eric puts the fan blade on, he protects the shaft, puts the fan blade on in the correct direction, and uses the keyway to determine the fan blade's position. When possible, you want the fan to sit in the middle of the keyway, not at the edge. Then, Eric tightens the bolts, paints over the shaft to make it stainless, and puts the shroud back on. However, he notices that the fan blade rests too close to the shroud and must lower the blade again.
Before you finish any job, you will want to check your electrical components as Eric does. Check your fuse placement, the amperage on all three power legs, and the fan blade rotation.
Read all the tech tips, take the quizzes,
and find our handy calculators at https://www.hvacrschool.com/.
This is eric with halo services and hvac school and today we're going to go over some tips on changing condenser fan motors specific to these market condenser applications, but it'll apply to other larger condenser fan motors. So, as you can see, this type of motor is going to connect at the top and it's kind of hard to tell on these running ones. But when the wiring comes out, it's coming pretty close to the blade. So i've gone ahead and put this angled metal flex connector in to route the wire down and away i've.
Also gotten rid of the flag terminal ends because they're worn out, and they don't make a good connection and we're gon na loosen these bolts. Here it's nine millimeter or eleven thirty seconds, as you can see, there's also a lock washer. You got to pick up now. One thing that somebody showed me the other day was: you could take a magnet and manipulate that lock washer to get the fork connector.
So this is just a mauko magnetic drill bit. Take the the drivers off. You can pick up the washer in order to get the fork connectors that i've crimped on there underneath now. You can also see this belly band.
These things can fit pretty tight. So what i've gone ahead and done - and this is a 5 8 wrench - is - i got it in there and i used another wrench to to flip it. So it's spreading this belly band apart for me now, so i don't have to fight the motor in there. It's now like a one-handed operation, just let the motor slide down in the position.
You want, of course, this one's gon na fight me now. One thing to keep in mind: my motor has screws to stop it. If you don't, you got to watch because it can land directly on the coil, and that would be no good. So now we're going to get our wiring into the motor high voltage wiring.
So there we go, it might be more tedious to connect. But it's definitely a better connection when it's done there's all the connections done. The motor is set to high volt this plug right here. If you were going with a low volt application spin it around, but that's not what we're doing now we're going to put our cover back on make sure the wire is tidied up and it's not going to get caught up in the blade and next we're going To put the fan blade on, i like to start the notch of the shaft up by the top of the motor.
Now i'm getting ahead of myself, though, because before we do that, i already know where my fan blade's gon na sit and i'm gon na put a little bit of anti-seize there to protect the shaft and, as i was saying, i'm gon na start. The the notch lined up with the notch at the top, get my keyway in here and then push it all down together. These fan, blades sit, really low, and i like to take this out and make sure i'm not on the edge of the keyway that i'm somewhere in the middle of it, if you're on the edge of the keyway and it messes it up. It'll be hard to take back apart and then just tighten down your bolts and then we're gon na put the shroud back on put some anti-seize in those have this one only has three and we're gon na hit the shaft with paint. Now, if we look at this one we're gon na have to get the blade lower. I thought i was down low enough, but these blades have to almost be touching the motor. It helps if you don't paint it before you do that all right. Let's see if that's low enough we're gon na check it before we tighten anything down now, we're still hitting the blade we're gon na have to drop way down on this motor.
We might have to be on the edge of our keyway in this application. All right, yeah, this motor is very, very close. Unlike the other two past, the end of my keyway unfortunately see if we can get a little bit. I think that's pretty much it that's as low as i can drop this thing down all right had to make a quick trip to the truck one.
Okay, i got ta make sure to get the same spacing here as these are gon na give me. So it looks like that might be a little too much spacing looks like five of these. So let's try three. I think three washers is gon na, be the ticket it's gon na, be all we can do anyway.
All right, let's see now looks good. I'm gon na paint that one because it's not stainless but we're up on spacers our blade rotates freely. Now we're gon na look at the electrical. So here's our electrical, our fuses go in there i've added loops to this one.
So i can amp it. You see. It's really hard to get an amp clamp on the other ones, so i've added extra wire. We can get a good amp reading gon na pop the fuses in and start it up, checking all these fuses here.
I think these three are good all right now we got ta shut. This thing down real, quick and get it back on, because this is an active system, so we're gon na shut it down, put these fuses in, and here we go so that contactor is not calling right now. If we push it in, we can make the motor run. So i'm going to let that motor run and check the amperage.
So once your motor is installed and running you're going to be checking your amperage on all three legs and, of course, you're going to check rotation on a three-phase motor if your motor isn't spinning the right way, you're going to switch any two leads on this contactor. So you could switch two and three you could switch one and three two and one doesn't matter: just switch any two and it'll spin. The other way that about covers it, thanks for watching our video, if you enjoyed it and got something out of it, if you wouldn't mind hitting the thumbs up button to like the video subscribe to the channel and click, the notifications bell to be notified when new Videos come out, hvac school is far more than a youtube channel. You can find out more by going to hvacrschool.com, which is our website and hub for all of our content, including tech tips, videos, podcasts and so much more.
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The next guy will really appreciate the use of anti-seize.
This guy's worse than my instructor, Pauly G.
Great video Service area Nepean??
Been waiting for knipex to make a hammer forever
Why not lower the motor itself?
Why the paint?
Ok
After 34+ years, still learning. Love the Malco mag trick!.. Nice catch on replacing those contactors, they looked crispy..
Is a Star transformer providing the 3 phase power? Thank you.
EricM one smart dude.
This should be more of a what not to do when changing the condenser fan motor. If the blade is not sitting at the right height it means your motor is too big.. this is why you should not always use a generic motor. You just changed the air flow for that condenser and you may now not be moving enough air because your fan blade is not sitting in the right location and the right height for maximum airflow
2 items always in my kit; a dremel and stainless washers. Are you in Ottawa ?
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Love stuff like this. Real world examples. Keeping the issues like repositioning the blade in the video to show how it goes out in the field.
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