1. I die in my seventies but I guess I hope that I heard that I get off at 50

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2. If your system is working correctly it’s not supposed to turn off unless you turned it off, it’s supposed to ramp down and keep you comfortable. My first month with a mini split I got hit with a 600 bucks power bill cause I keep messing with the thermostat thinking something was wrong. The following month I left it alone at a set temperature and my power bill has gone down at an average of 15% every month compared to what I used the previous year.

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3. Theoretical perfection in heating and cooling is when the unit is only supplying what is being lost. Boilers and ductless are well on their way to doing this. Boilers are at a 10 to 1 turndown and ductless, because they do not need to maintain a static pressure for balancing, are also getting close to infinite turndown. Early Sanyo units used the remote as a thermostat that had to be in eyeshot of the unit to work. The Comfort star units I install give you a choice, you can flash the unit with the remote and put the remote in a drawer, it is no longer needed. Because the unit is now taking its measurement from the thermistor in the unit, the indoor fan must be on continuously in order to get a true room temperature. Even in a power outage it will restart and go to the last setting. You can also use the "Follow me" button and turn the remote into the thermostat but once again it must stay within eyeshot of the unit to work, this is often used when they are placed on a higher wall. This will allow the unit to run until it gets to the actual temperature that the remote is sitting in. The new high heat Comfort star has a snap out blower. This is a major innovation because squirrel cage blowers tend to get packed with dirt and having them cleaned is expensive. This is one of the reasons I use cassettes whenever possible as they contain radial fans that dont build up dirt and are quieter, unfortunately they cant be used everywhere. Also I would like to point out that there are two "Auto" on the remote One is like you said to let the unit pick the proper fan speed so it can adjust to the load the other that confuses people is an automatic switchover from cooling to heating. People get in trouble with this on multi units if one unit is in a warmer or cooler room like a kitchen. These units can not heat and cool simultaneously like a three pipe unit. It is either one or the other and if one unit switches to heat while the other switches to cool you will pull an error code. So make sure you are setting the auto for the fan not for the unit. I was cleaning the units I installed but have recently given my cleanings to a guy that is specializing just in cleaning ductless, he is becoming quite good at disassembling all the different brands and is doing quite well. In Australia where these units have been around for many years they have franchises that do nothing but clean ductless units. This is definitely a good job for someone who is careful and meticulous to get into as most HVAC techs really don't care to do this. Are you in Barrhaven ?

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4. I have a mitsubishi 4 ton hyper heat unit with two air handlers.

   I hate the oem wall thermostats, (I think they are a par33 or something like that) I set them to 71 and they never seem to hit 71, it's either way too hot or 69 degrees but never comfortable.

   Will the new ecobee premiere thermostats do a better job? Or is there a better alternative?

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