This video is brought to you by Sporland. Quality, integrity and tradition. All right. Well, I Went on their ice machine and of course I can't leave well enough alone.

So I walked around just rinsing off condensers, checking everything out, rinsed off the rack really quick. came back around to check all the sight glasses and noticed that this beer walking compressor is off on thermal overload. I'm hoping it's thermal overload. it was red hot the contactor was pulled in I didn't have a meter with me yet.

so I just shut it off and uh, finished hosing the condenser and then I'm going to check to see if the windings are open or what's going on with it. now. this one. I Recently just put a new fan motor and fan blade right here.

This is the one where the Hub was going upside down backwards. Weird. So anyways, this had gone off on thermal overload then too. but I reset it I've got some gauges so like I said, I'm going to jump in here and see what we can figure out I put some service gauges on it.

we're shut off. Power breaker should be off I'll check in a minute, but we're almost equalized out on our gauges if we come right here. I have the meter set to continuity or tone see see. right now it's toning out.

Okay, so let's go right here. We should I know the wires are still on there, but this is a crude way. we're open. Let's go here.

Open right there. and then last but not least, Open. Now. This is a three-phase compressor.

We should have an equal resistance across all three of those. So um, I've got my compressor cooling tool right here. I'm gonna hook up the water hose to it, get that compressor cooled off, and hope that the overload resets and then we'll watch the thing operate. The condenser wasn't that dirty, but man, this equipment.

this is our second heat wave of the year. It's about 100 degrees in the shade, you can see right on there and stuff's just falling off the map. So just then, they don't do routine maintenance so you know everything's kind of really worn out just running water across the head of the compressor at a nice steady. Pace This is the uh, cool presser tool from Sepco.

You can pick them up at uh, Truetechtools.com to use my offer code. big picture. You get a discount on checkout on majority of the items on their website so and it also gives me a small commission when you do that, so it's a great way to help support the channel. But yeah, these things good.

They come in clutch when you really, really need them to help cool off a compressor because they keep the flow across it nice and even. And then you don't have to worry about getting bags of ice or anything in theory. I'm checking on the load side of the contactor. power's turned off at the breakers.

Got our meter set to tone so it should tone out when the overload and the compressor resets. So we're just going to let the water continue to run. and uh, I'm going to finish working on my ice machine so my condenser is right over there and I was actually just cleaning the condenser just getting done with that and then came over here the ice machine I didn't really get video footage of it I started to but then I got distracted but that one just had a bad water float and it needs a cube guide. It's a Hoshizaki machine so we're gonna let this keep flowing.

Hopefully it cools off all right. it's been running. it should be a reset. I Just came back over to it right now so let's have a look.

We come over here and we've reset, but I'm not going to stop. We're going to let it run for about another five minutes trying to cool off the compressor a little bit longer just to make sure it stays cool and then we'll try to restart it and see where the problem lies. I'm pretty sure it lies just it's hot and it had a slightly dirty condenser, but um, we will see once we start it up. Oh I took my alligator leads off.

it ran for a few more minutes. Let's go ahead and I just got my meter on Ohms resistance. so about 1.1 1.2 Let's keep going down the line, make sure everything's nice and sturdy in there. 1.1 Okay.

and then last but not least, we're checking. This is a three-phase compressor. so we're checking all three leads should be somewhat equal. Yeah, 1.1 Okay, so all three are reset.

We're gonna go ahead and turn this guy on and uh, hope that nothing shorts out or blows up because that rack has some water in it. But it's inevitable that happens I Mean it's meant to be that way because it, you know, can rain on top of it and stuff. So all right, one two three, please don't blow up. Okay, it's running I Can hear it.

Compressor's pumping so we're gonna let it run for a bit. You don't want to shut it off, you just want to let it run and let it cool itself. We'll get over there and check voltages and everything here. In just a minute, suction pressure is coming up.

It's a really high suction pressure on this guy right now. This guy's under a load, huh? That compressor might need a pressure control adjustment the way it sounded when it shut down suction lines getting cool, but it's kind of warm right now. Discharge: Line's hot I'm a little worried because it might go off on overload again. Just give it a minute.

we gotta let it run. Let's come over here and test voltage. See what kind of voltage we have coming into the contactor? it's going to be low. We're a 208 three-phase system.

here We're seeing 200 volts, 200 volts. I'm checking across the phases on the line voltage 202. Let's check the outlet of the contactor 200 200 202. So seems like the contactor is working good, not really seeing a voltage drop across the contactor.

Now everything's good on that. We'll open it up in a little while, but like I said, we need to let it run right now. Um, and just, uh, hopefully start cooling off that compressor. Okay, suction pressure is coming down.

That's a good sign. It's about 77. Still, it's high. But all right, we're gonna let it run for a little bit longer.

We're running against right around 100 degrees right now. I Mean things are looking pretty darn good. It's Side Glass just cleared up. It's a good sign.

Looks like we have oil in the oil sight glass down there. it's kind of hard to see. Um, we've got a cold suction coming back. I'm gonna go get some clamps so we can check compressor superheat again.

I Suspect a lot of the dirt that I just washed off this condenser was the cause I Suspect that this thing was going off on high pressure. It's got an auto reset pressure control, so if it does that enough, it will go off on thermal overload eventually and that would be my best guess. But I'm going to watch it for a little bit longer. We're running right around 14.5 amps I Mean that's not bad for this guy.

This guy's not I think it's rated to run at like 15 or something. rla it's coming down suction Line's cold I'm having a hard time with my temperature clams. It's one of those things where Wireless probes can be a pain in the butt. There's something interfering with my probe because I at this particular restaurant I Noticed these problems if you try to use wireless tools on the roof I Don't think it's those satellite dishes.

Usually they have like a point-to-point communication one somewhere around here that always messes. That's my assumption. That's what messes with my stuff. It's not that because that's not connected I don't think those are connected to anything I don't know something's interfering with what I'm doing up here.

there's some sort of Wireless interference. Um, so I'm gonna have to find a wire temperature clamp in my van connect onto this guy but we got a cold suction like it's fine I I Know the Super 8's not too high coming back to the compressor. Um, sight glass is still clear right there. Oil levels a tad on the high side I Got in there with a flashlight.

It's above three quarters but I'm gonna let it run for a little bit. I'm not going to try to go do anything too crazy right now. Um I mean saturation temp doesn't look too bad compared to ambient temperature. It's kind of fluctuating because there's a breeze, but it's about 100 degrees up here.

It's pretty consistent temperature what we're reading right now. So yeah, we're really not looking bad. We're only like about 20 degrees over Ambien as far as condensing Tim and again I think it was just all for me cleaning the condenser if I made it operate a lot better. When we start going through this, we're going through our second heat wave of the year I think we're supposed to hit like 105 to 110 this weekend and I I foresee myself I'm on call that I'll be doing this kind of stuff.

just cooling things off, rinsing condensers, resetting overloads, resetting pressure controls. It's just how it goes when, uh, when we get these heat waves, you know? But you know it's always best that you just you still don't just assume you know we're checking everything out. we're watching it operate. The box is at 42 degrees now so it's coming down and temperature feels better in there.

Um, contactor seems fine. Voltage: There's no voltage drop across the contactor. current seems okay, right? We've been running for a little bit. Still, things are looking good.

not seeing anything crazy I Had to go old school here. So I got a temperature clamp. We got a 38 degree suction line saturation temperature. What is the math there that I just did.

It's like uh, 15 degrees super heat. uh compressor superheat so this guy's still pulling down. so I expect you know the expansion valves being a little aggressive right now? Um, but yes, it looks like are we pumping down? Maybe at the moment we might be pumping down. This is good.

Yeah, actually it's good to watch these things pump down if that's what's happening because uh, sometimes they can be overcharged and when they pump down, they can go off on thermal overload. But I don't think that's the case here. We're just watching crazy right now. Still got a hot discharge line.

Looks like we're flashing right now. so I don't know if it's pumping down or what just happened here. I Think that's what it's doing I think it's pumping down. Get my amp clamps doing over here.

Come over here. Check this guy. Yeah. I Think it's pumping down because drop down to 11 amps.

That's what it looks like. Looks like we're getting there. PSI See what this guy cuts out at? This is another good thing because we can actually see if it's set right. So yeah, we're flashing as it's what's happening.

is the liquid line, solenoid valve on the liquid line is shutting and the unit is slowly pumping down. And let's make sure it's not a defrost thing. No, it's not in defrost. I Mean it seems okay, but it's taken a little while to pump down for sure.

That's a little odd. so let's pull this off. have a look at what the pressure control and it just shut off. So it was like right getting ready to shut off and I whacked it so it made it turn off.

but I mean it doesn't seem too too bad. maybe I need to make a slight adjustment to the pressure control. The other thing too is I'm going to wait for it to turn back on because I want to see what it cuts in at too. As far as the cut out pressure, it looks like it's approximately set for the head pressure.

the um, maybe about right about 400 PSI give or take. but these things are never 100 accurate on these. uh, mechanical pressure control. So so it just turned on it, cut in, uh, in the mid 30s like 35 PSI and it's running so we're gonna watch it for another cycle.

I'd like to see it go through another cycle and pump down again. I did make an adjustment to the cutout pressure on this guy so I'd like to see this thing shut off if possible so we're gonna watch it for a little bit longer. It's a waiting game when it comes to this because I don't know what caused the compressor to go up on thermal. so trying to give it a few minutes of on and off Cycles to see if you know it does anything funny for me right? here we go.

So this guy should be cutting out around 25, you know what? I'm not hearing something good in that compressor. It sounds like it's bypassing when it's pumping down. it is. I Don't know if you guys can hear this or not, but this thing's bypassing internally.

Yup, this thing is totally bypassing. So this compressor. it's like the uh, internal pressure relief is messed up. It's starting to make this weird hissing sound and it's not off on thermal and it's not getting too low either.

24 PSI isn't bad. There it goes. It was about to bypass again, like to go off on complete internal bypass. so by me hitting that I shut it down.

But yeah, this thing's got a problem. Something's wrong inside that compressor. Man, this is not what I want on a there's something internally happening in that compressor that sucks I Gotta try to find a compressor. stinks.

man. these guys not doing maintenance. This stuff just dies quick. It's nuts again.

I don't know what's coming across on camera, but I can hear it like internally bypassing as it's trying to pump down to make it a weird sound. It's really weird, all right. Well, this is a crappy turn of events. So something internally is happening when the compressor tries to pump down.

I can hear it like slightly bypassing and it's not pumping down efficiently. Um I made adjustments to the pressure control. There is not one of these compressors anywhere near me. The closest is Bakersfield California and by the I can't get there.

that's a good, you know, four or five hours away in traffic. Um, if there was no traffic, it'd only be like three hours away. But yeah, that's not happening right now. So I got to figure this out.

and the one that's in Bakersfield California is not a roto-lock so I'd have to convert it. which I can do because I got rotor lock adapters. Um so I made adjustments and I got it to basically adjust a little bit higher to where it cuts out a little higher than I want it to? um and I'm hoping that'll get me by I don't know how this is going to turn out this week. I'm I'm gonna make some more phone calls right now.

I might have to Next Day Air Compressor if I'm gonna have to Next Day Air and I want to know if I can get a roto-lock one. Um, make it even easier because this would be a simple swap out front seat, front seat, twist the rotor locks off, put the new one in. But yeah, something internally is happening with this guy. so I'm gonna watch it a few more.

Cycles I'm still making a few more phone calls, but yeah, fun stuff for me, right? So these guys have check valves in them I believe right here in the top and I'm wondering if the check valve's failing like that's what's going on inside this compressor because the issue only seems to happen when it pumps down. Man, this sucks. Nobody has this. So I'm hoping that by adjusting it higher, getting the cut out higher that it'll limp through until we can get this.

it wasn't set too low. I Went through the Copeland AE bulletin and I believe it says something like no lower than like 15 psi or something like that I Think is what? I Just let me see. Yeah, so the Copeland AE bulletin says 17 PSIG minimum 450 PSIG maximum is the cut out pressure for the pressure control. Um, and it wasn't set any lower than that.

But whether or not the pressure control has been failing and trying to go lower, you know that's another thing to be said because these pressure controls have a high failure rate. So yeah, I'm just waiting for it to do another pump down to see if the adjustments that I made on it are any better. All right. So here's the test.

Looks like we're pumping down again so should be cutting out somewhere around 30 PSI Cut out so let's see if that works because I Don't think you guys can hear this. It starts to bypass again. Let's see. Come on.

baby. Cut out Cut out so it's starting to bypass so I can hear it. Come on baby. Shut off.

You can do it. Huh? It's pressure control's jacked up. Pressure control is not working. That's what's wrong.

Pressure control is bad and it's been running and trying to shut down and it can't gosh darn it that stinks. I Gotta figure this out now. I think I can get it by like it'll pump down to like 30 PSI If I can get the pressure control to work, the problem is I have to recover the charge to change the pressure control on the high side which is kind of stinks. All right.

I Got an ugly solution to my problem. Come on over here. What I did was just installed another pressure control temporarily put in about 40. PSI So we're going to let it run again and watch it pump down.

So I left this one connected and here's why: I don't want to have to recover this entire charge right now just to change the pressure control because I'm going to end up changing this compressor. So in the meantime I just moved this pressure control left it hooked up, put service tees right here and we have to leave these in the mid-seated position. Sorry, we have to leave these stems right there in the mid-seated position. we'll make sure we put caps on I close the packings.

this will get us by and then when we change the compressor, we'll be able to get rid of that because we'll recover the gas. I Just don't want to have to recover it just to do the pressure control temporarily. So I'm going to watch it go through a cycle right now and pump down and make sure that it pumps down okay and then hopefully we'll be able to just order the compressor and it did it. It just pumped down really quick.

Um, shut down at about 30 PSI and see I need a little bit more of a differential so I might have to adjust it a little bit more. but let's see, it's not turning back on. it's going to turn back on around 40 something. PSI Now I don't really like these pressures, but in the summertime I don't think it's going to be a problem in the winter time because of how cold it gets outside.

You don't want that cut in that in the 40s because it could be a problem. It's looking like we're okay right now. Yeah, it's looking like we're okay. So I think this is going to buy me some time now.

This is all just temporary because I don't want to recover the gas and these valves right here. When you front seat this. all that you do is, um, shut off the flow from here to here. but it's still when you front seat this.

This still gets the pressure from in the compressor. This still gets the pressure from in the compressor. But this one right here always has pressure. No matter if you front seat this back seat this, this is always going to have pressure.

so you got to recover the charge to connect to this port. So this way I have these just cracked to where there's pressure at this all the time. there's a Schrader in the top. There's a Schrader right here.

There's no straighter here. No. Schrader Here we leave them cracked. I put the caps on tight and this will get us by.

Yeah, we're doing good and it's not turning back on. so I'm waiting for it to turn back on just so I can see where it cuts in at and then hopefully this will get us buy us some time. So I can get a new compressor because yeah, nobody has them locally. All right.

Cross our fingers. seems to be okay. Cut in about 44 43 PSI it's cutting out about 30 PSI Again, something's failing inside that compressor so it won't allow it to pump down properly without like bypassing. So I think some sort of a check valve in there.

Um so I think this will get us by right now I think the cause of it was probably the low pressure control failing and not shutting off where it was supposed to because when I tried to adjust it, it was just acting really wonky. So hopefully this will get us by. And like I said, I'm going to try to order the rotoloc compressor now because I think it was bought me a couple days or so. Hopefully well we are back.

It's been a while we've been busy. We brought our entire van got someone with me. We're going to recover the charge out of this guy. Get this compressor swapped out.

I Was not able to get a roto lock compressor so I have to use roto-lock adapters which is fine. It was really hard to get this compressor I have to have it shipped in. there's nobody local in Southern California which is in yeah which is huge like normally we have compressors all the time even. Copeland was a couple weeks out so we're going to get it recovered, swapped out, pressure control situation cleaned up and we'll take you along.

All right, we are going to recover. Um so I was interesting. Will here just said that the refrigerant smells funny. Um, we decided to go ahead and recover and put new refrigerant in this.

uh, this compressor could be on the verge of a catastrophic failure. We know that internally the pressure relief is a problem, so the overheating inside that compressor could have damaged something. If the refrigerant smells funny, that's why we're going to just go ahead and change the refrigerant, dryer, whole compressor and be done with it now. I've talked about this before.

these valves right here where this and I think I Talked about it earlier in the video but this right here never gets shut off. No matter what the position of this valve. this always has pressure. So when pressure controls are connected to those, the only way to do the high side is to recover the refrigerant because if you pump it down at the receiver, it will shut off the flow to the low side.

But it does not shut off the flow between the compressor and the receiver. It's only on the outlet of the receiver to the inlet of the compressor. so you have to recover to do these. And there is no Schraders in these fittings.

And these pressure controls right here don't even accept Schrader compressors. So this is just how this has to be. It's just a waiting game. At this point we've done everything that we can.

We're just waiting for the recovery. It's pulled out 16 pounds so far. Um, pressure is getting pretty high, but we'll see I think we'll make it. Uh, system pressures are getting there.

Um, we've got. you know, everything unhooked that we can have unhooked. We can't unhook that pressure control until we're avoid of refrigerant. We've unhooked the compressor.

The dryer is already a flare, so we're just putting a new flare in there. I Mean again, we're just trying to stay moving. You know? we've already got all our materials and everything up here, so it's going good so far. I Keep these Roto lock adapters so you can make any compressor or rotor lock with these essentially.

So when we pull the rubber plugs out, Can you pull that out right there? When we pull the rubber plug out, they make them so it goes in or over. This one's just going to go in and then we just Silver solder it on and we'll be good. I have like a box of valves and I always keep those we were just discussing. We're going to try to get these on everybody's trucks because sometimes you can't find a rotoloc compressor.

you're not as lucky. you know when we're brazing. dissimilar Metals I Use high silver content I Use 56. Now you don't have to.

Some people use the 45 I Like 56 I Like the roll. Some people like the flex coated rods. It's all good. Whatever floats your boat.

The thing I don't like about the flex coated rods is when you leave them in your torch for a long time the flux becomes brittle and then you go to use it and it starts flaking off or falling off because I don't braise just similar metals like every day so it just goes bad and it gets beat up. So I Prefer standard Silver solder. So we flexed everything nice and good and cleaned it. That's the biggest thing with silver solder is cleanliness.

This one right here is going to be an easier brace because it's a female fitting and it's going over right. but this one is a male fitting so it's a little bit more tricky to get this braised on just because you don't. you have to heat it up really hot, but then you know it's just kind of tricky to get in there. but we'll get it.

It'll all be good All right. Silver Solder can be tricky. it doesn't look the prettiest, the the key is the Heat and the cleanliness. Okay, so we haven't cooled anything off, but we got it to flow.

we're gonna cool it off. We'll once it cools a little bit, we'll run some sandpaper on it and make it look pretty. Just be careful when you are using Silver braising solder that you're not getting it on the threads because you'll get it so hot. sometimes it'll go on the threads and then the fittings ruined once you get it on the threads.

Um, we also put some of the heat blocking Compound on there just to help to protect the compressor just a little bit. All right. We just finished with the recovery I Just closed the process port on the gauges, put the machine into Purge mode so it's just pumping out as much of the refrigerant out of the machine as possible into the tank. and uh, we are done now.

so we're going to take everything off, get the Roto locks off, and get the new compressor lifted in all right now. I Like to use a little bit of Nylog right here now. I know a lot of people don't like to I like a dab on the threads I like some on the O-ring the roto-lock gasket and I like to put a little bit on this nut to get it to spin better. Now you can also use Refrigeration oil on the net right there, but Nylog will go in there just fine.

Just get it. it doesn't take much on this right there. Now adjust a little bit and then just spin it and that's all you need on that That just lubricates the nut so it spins well and then we'll put a little bit on the gaskets right there. We'll push the gaskets in the roto-lock uh Raceway right there and then we'll get these guys threaded on all right.

We are currently getting the crankcase heater installed. We did test it. it's in good shape. We're going to turn the gas ballast open, turn the vacuum pump on.

We're all hooked up. I've got that was a rough start. What the heck was that about? Um, something good. I've got a uh micron gauge over there.

We'll go check on it in a few minutes so we're just gonna let this run for a bit and then, uh, keep hooking everything up. So we're getting there. it's pulling down. We haven't even closed the gas ballast yet.

We're going to let it pull down a little bit more. We got a new uh, squirrel and catch-all right here with the sight glass. It's flare installed. Um, put a 16 cubic inch.

nice and good. All the information that you want on the side right here Um, we're looking good so far so we're gonna start cleaning up our messes. Um, that spoiling Catch-all should help to catch anything that's in the system. You know we were picking up a funny smell now.

we didn't do an acid test, but we picked up a funny smell on the refrigerant Got spoiling quetzal. Just the standard version is perfect for acid. Okay, they also make an HH version, but that's a high wax removal if you have issues with wax or anything like that. I don't think we got to that point.

We'll monitor it, but everything's looking good so far. All right. I think that is pretty darn good for uh, for an old system that's got old evaporatory coils I Wouldn't be surprised if there's some leaks in the evaporator coils, but we're gonna go and shut off the vacuum pump and let it go into a Decay test. see how high it rises? as long as we don't get above a thousand? I'll be pretty comfortable with that.

Um, but again, I mean I wouldn't be surprised if there's not small leaks in the evaps too. So let's see what happens. Um, we'll be uh, getting ready to charge it up too. One thing that I am going to do before I charge it up is we'll take off the vacuum hoses, valve these off, put my gauges on there, and pull an evacuation on the gauges, and then that way we got clean dry gauges for the refrigerant now.

I have another guy here with me today and I had to send him to go get some more refrigerant because together we don't have quite enough. So grab some of that and hopefully be starting this up very soon. We're looking pretty good. so far it's in Decay it's about 519.

according to the blue Vac app that you use, it's saying that it's passing the Decay test. so it basically takes a timer and just a mathematical calculations to say that you know the rate of Rise is so low or something like that I don't know, but um, yeah, we're looking good on that. So I'm just pulling an evacuation on the manifold right now and then I'm gonna get ready to introduce some refrigerant to the system. What I did was I went and turned off the breaker I had the breaker on for the compressor doing the evacuation.

so the solenoids and everything were open so I turned it off and we're hooked up just to the high side. We obviously pulled an evacuation on the gauges you can see the low side's still in a vacuum and I'm dumping in as much of the 404 out of the heaviest drum that I had. Um, I think together, collectively, we only had like 17 pounds of refrigerant we need like 25. So I'm going to dump in as much as I can while I'm waiting for uh, my other guy to come back with the new refrigerant which we'll only need a couple pounds of.

But so so far it's taken six pounds of refrigerant drinking it and it's thirsty for sure. so we're just going to keep dumping it in and then we'll turn the compressor on once it stops taking refrigerant on the high side. That way, we're not on off with a low pressure control kind of a thing. we're just putting it as much as it'll take into the high side.

All right, let's uh, hope this doesn't blow up. Everything goes right. I'm hoping we got the phase rotation right. Think we did.

Listen for it on Startup right now. so we're waiting for the temp control to open. they're just opened. See what happens when it starts? pressure's coming up, it's running in the right direction.

No problems there, you can tell by the sound and I'm gonna go ahead and finish charging as much of the refrigerant from this cylinder and then we'll switch over to that cylinder compressor. Sounds good I like it Right on? All right. We're about done with the second drama Refrigerant. All together, we've gotten about 18 pounds of gas in this guy.

It's calling for 25.2 according to the manufacturer and that includes the flooded charge. Uh, they actually have a data plate that tells you everything on this unit. So um, we're almost there. My guy's almost back with the refrigerant, so we're just about to tap this drum out and I'm just again just trying to clean up.

So all right, at this point, we're right at about 20 pounds of refrigerant. My sight glass is literally going from clear to flashing clear to flashing. So it's right at that point. so it's flashing at the moment.

but then it'll clear up. So what that's telling me is that from this point forward, everything that we're adding is our flooded charge for the winter for the head pressure control valve to work properly when the system's operating. Okay, five pounds of gas? That sounds about accurate on this. So we're gonna go ahead and put in that rest that remainder of refrigerant that the manufacturer is calling for.

and uh, everything should be good to go and we are fully clear Now on the sight glass. Dude, that's what I like about the Sporland see-all sight glasses is. Uh, that guy I adjusted on that pressure control I Think that compressor is our next one? I Think there's something going on in there. It's working, but it's uh, it's like it's check valve is not working right or something.

Um, but uh I like these see all sight glasses because uh, they're just so big you can see everything nice and neat. Um, we're looking good. We're looking really good. This guy's coming down in temperature.

It's currently just about 100 degrees outside, 97 in the shade. Um, we're looking pretty darn good. We've got about a 22 degree condensing temperature over ambient, which as long as I don't see anything over 30 I'm not too concerned. We don't use the condensing temp over ambient as like our charging metric, but we use it as a Vital sign like I Know that these condensers that I work with most of the time should not have anything more than a 30 degree condensing temperature, right? The saturated temperature of the refrigerant over the ambient temperature? my ambient temperature in the shade.

It's about 96 degrees and we've got 121 degree saturation temp, so don't see a problem with that. Uh, Vapor saturation about 26 degrees I mean I would imagine that coil the Box temp is probably in the 40s right now, so that doesn't seem too bad to me. Everything's looking good. compressor is running good.

we're definitely going to watch it satisfy so we can make sure the pressure control is set appropriately and I know that I saw the cut in cut in around 30 something so that's fine and we just want to make sure the cut out isn't cutting out below. I Believe the Copeland document I said earlier in the video I think was 17, PSI was the lowest they wanted this pressure control set for and I think I set it for 20 something so we should be good to go. Nice cold suction line. Coming back.

Everything looks good. New pressure control. all should be well on this one. So at this point we're kind of done wrapping it up.

We're getting pretty cleaned up. We are going to give the customer the keys and tell them to keep an eye on it all right? I cut the compressor open. Uh so I saved you guys the agony of watching me take a grinder. but I just take a grinder wheel I'm pretty good at where I need to cut.

don't really damage too much every once in a while I hit the side right here. but that's about it. so pull this thing out. First thing I did was took all the oil out, found that the oil charge was slightly overcharged.

I think this called for like if I remember right this is a Zb30 Kce. so I think it was 1.9 or 1.8 liters and I think I pulled out just over 2 liters of oil. so this was a replacement compressor. More than likely oil came back from the evaporators that had been floating through the system or something.

so that's one thing to consider. Okay, but that I don't think was my main problem. Remember what would happen was I came up on the unit. it was off on thermal overload.

didn't know why it went off on thermal Overload at first but then I found that we had a failed low pressure control. Okay, um so let's pull this apart and I'm going to show you guys now. One of the most important things that I can tell you is if you want to understand how these compressors work, get the Application Engineering Bulletins. Okay, this is AE bulletin right here.

84 1317 R15 So much valuable information inside here. Okay, so let me pull this apart and then I'll go through a few different things and tell you what I think happened here. First thing when I pulled this apart, look at the bottom of the muffler plate, look at how much overheating was going on there. One thing I'm going to tell you is I have never seen this ring right here.

turn on one of these so I can turn that I've never noticed that before I have two more identical Zb30s that I've cut open, went back and pulled the muffler plates from those I've never seen that physically turn and it's like a it's not coming up to here. so it's like right here or something like that. That's interesting, just never seen that look at the temperature, the heat inside here. this thing's just clearly been overheating.

Seems like the check valve's still intact. There's a check valve inside there. Okay, that seems good. Floating seal right here.

Definitely has seen some overheating going on. Okay, it's just beat down. All right. Let's look right here at this top piece.

I Can feel a ridge where the floating seal meets the floating seal. pushes up against that. Okay, and there's there's a Groove there of like this carbon buildup stuff like and it's very interesting. So I don't like that right there.

That's a lack of Maintenance and overheating. Okay, um, the internal I believe this is the IPR valve. I Don't think this had anything to do with the IPR valve because according to that Tech bulletin right here, well we'll talk about it in a minute. I'll go through it but it explains when the IPR valve lets go.

Okay, um, then you have your snap disc. This is your internal protection right here. This allows the Um the gas to vent, the discharge gas to blow down on the thermal overload and cause the unit to go off on thermal. I Really think that our problem lied with that.

but another thing that I noticed is right here: this this gasket. There's an o-ring on there and that O-ring is really deformed, almost like it was overheating and just getting blasted with hot gas over and over and over again. It's not sitting in there right? So I think that is a a sign pointing towards what I think was happening and I think that snap disc was slightly starting to allow gas to bypass because and this is just my opinions: I'm not an expert on Copeland compressors. Okay, just observations.

but I think that we were overheating high discharge temperatures because the low pressure control was failing and it was just trying to pump down and pump down and pump down. in the head of the compressor is just overheating, getting hotter and hotter and hotter until the snap disc starts to slightly release. and and then I think that's what was causing our thermal overload situation. But the overall condition of this compressor, the overheating going on in there.

look at the the floating seal is just destroyed. The fixed scroll doesn't look too bad inside. I Mean there's a little bit of stuff from me cutting it open. I Don't see much.

uh, scroll galling in here. There's slight scroll galling. that's the little round circles and stuff ever so slightly. But I don't really think we had a flooded start situation.

Um, what? I do start to see underneath the Old Ham coupling is you can start to see some copper plating in here. So we definitely had the conditions. Uh, some moisture inside there. with the high temperatures starting to cause some acid, you can see right in here.

look at that. So we definitely should probably go back and do an acid test on the new compressor because like I said my technician, we didn't do an acid test on site. but my technician did notice that the refrigerant smelled a little funny. So we went ahead and changed all the refrigerant, put new dryers on there, pulled a proper evacuation.

you guys saw that. but we don't know if we still have any damage inside there. Okay, I didn't cut the thermal overload open I Know that there's going to be, you know, some damage inside there. Um, you know what is that starting to expose the windings right there? It almost looks like I Don't know.

when you have presence of acid, you can have wax floating around the system because the acids can start to eat away the wax coating on the windings here. So you want to be cautious about that stuff. And that's where the HH Sporland Dryers really come in handy because they have the high wax removal potential. So I think that our problem was uh, the snap disc right up in here.

I Think that the compressor was overheating because the low pressure control had failed and it was just running, running, running, trying to pump down and the compressor wouldn't pump down that low because it was outside the operating envelope of the compressor of which is stated in this Technical Engineering Bulletin right here. and I'll pull up some information on that. All right. So here's our application manual, right? Uh, ae1317 R15 But they make these for every compressor.

There's a couple really key things that I want to talk about in this manual. Okay, so what we're going to do is we're going to scroll to page six of this manual and something very interesting. As I was reading through this: I Noticed something right down here I highlighted where it says crankcase heaters apparently on single phase there is no crank case heaters required on scroll compressors. Very interesting factoid: I Did not know that on the three phase it's only required when it's outdoor install relation and when the refrigerant charge exceeds 10 pounds.

So I'm sure there's you know variables to some of that, but that was very interesting. Let's go ahead and scroll on over to page seven here: High Pressure Low Pressure it tells you to go to Table Six for set points. so we're going to get there here in just a minute. But interestingly enough, certain Oems are approved for low pressure settings below the standard recommendations.

But again, don't think that someone's wrong because they have it set some way. But you know you got to reach out to the manufacturer and ask them and see you know how they got these approvals and what happened there. Okay, next, Pump Down recommendations. Uh, it's saying that ZB models, which is, uh, the kind of compressor that I have incorporate a low leak check valve suitable for pump down applications.

Okay, so just good information to know on that one. Let's go ahead and scroll on over to page eight and internal Pressure or Internal Temperature protection. So it tells you the different horsepower compressors from the Zb10 through the Zb57. It's saying it has a thermo disc which is a temperature sensitive snap disk device located at the scroll discharge Port it's designed to open and Route the hot discharge gas back to the motor protector, thus removing the compressor from the line.

And I think that that was our problem. but I think that that snap disk was starting to fail because I don't know and this is where someone can correct me in the comments: I believe that snap disk is supposed to either open or close my situation I could hear it starting to open. Okay, so I think it was the snap disk because I could hear some sort of a bypass going on. but I noticed that if I just went ahead and shut off the compressor, it didn't go off on thermal.

That's just my thought. I I could be wrong about that. Okay, and I want to jump to page 21 here for the pressure control settings. Okay, right here it says for the ZB compressors low pressure.

minimum cut out for R404a is 17 PSI maximum cut out is 450 PSI Okay, now just because minimum and maximum, you know of course there can be problems with the compressor. There can be failures and different things like that I am learning as I'm making these videos too. Opening up those application manuals are very important. Whatever you're working on, right? If you want to know more about Sporlin products, you know, find their Tech bulletins right? If you want to know more about Copeland compressors, all you have to do is ask the Google Okay Google has so much information.

If you want to know about a Carrier Air Conditioner or a Linux air conditioner, just go searching. Okay, Facebook is a great resource. YouTube is a great resource, but you have to do your own work too. You have to dig in and you have to try to figure these problems out.

You can't just trust some dude on Facebook or some dude on YouTube like me telling you to do something you need to do your own research I am certainly not always right I make mistakes I Do not know everything Okay I Just try my best to dig in and find things okay. If you guys hear me, see me doing things that aren't aren't correct. Uh, saying things that are incorrect. Feel free to let me know.

I'm always looking to grow and I love feedback. Okay, you don't got to be a jerk about it. But I do love feedback right? So with this call, I was actually there working on an ice machine. wasn't there for the walk-ins I just happened to be proactive because this used to be one of my customers that did routine maintenance, but they're not doing it anymore.

but they still use me for service. So when I'm on site I usually walk around, look at all their equipment, try to eliminate a service call later that night kind of a thing, and I think I did eliminate a service call later that night in this situation because I was there working on an ice machine I had to hose off the condensers I figured you know what? I'm gonna walk around and hose everything else off on the roof and then I found this one was off on thermal overload again. Okay, so I dug into it now. luckily in my situation, I noticed that the compressor started to bypass whenever it would go into pump down mode.

So I installed that temporary pressure control, set the settings way high right, and then was able to get through and it was actually about five days before I got back there. But I did have the compressor rushed as far as delivery I had it within three days after the weekend, but um, I had it for a few days and then I was just doing some other stuff and we got back out there and got it replaced. Okay, so in this situation, there's not much I can do to prevent this. again.

the compressor failed prematurely. way too short of a life, right? But the customers not having us maintain their equipment. we're not cleaning condensers on a regular basis. we're not servicing the equipment so this is what they're gonna get.

You know it's just unfortunate, but this is how it is, you know? Um, so I really appreciate you guys making it to the end of the video. Thank you so very much for watching. If you haven't already, please check out my website Hvacrvideos.com We have merchandise available on there. It's a great way to help support the channel.

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Um, Last but not least, if you're interested in purchasing any tools a good majority of the time and I mentioned something in the video uh, the tools that I have I get from Truetechtools.com So if you go to Truetechtools.com in this video, you saw me using the cool presser tool from Subco. If you're interested in purchasing that, go to Truetechtools.com Use my offer code big picture and that's one word on most items on their web website. You'll get an eight percent discount and then I get a small commission from that. So that's a great way to help support the channel.

I Really, really appreciate you. Okay, thank you very much and we will catch you on the next one.