This video is brought to you by spore'ln quality, integrity and tradition seriously. I'm about to start throwing the receptacle and plugins. You only have 70 volts coming out of it. Frustrating is all get up.

You know. Sometimes this happens and try not to lose. My temper come about so I'm hoping that my portal plug in something down that roof patch right there, I'm hoping alright. Today's call is, on a pizza front, table a cold top.

That is not working right. I was called yesterday. This is a chi rack fret top. This is an old-school one that has a pan chiller motor.

This one has actually been butchered check this out. I think I've shown this before that's the refrigeration line. The the thing had a leak and someone took it off. They had a guy that repaired it it's a mess, but anyways complaint.

Is it's not tamping? So the first thing when these things is the fan motor the fan motors not running on here, so I need to open this up investigate why it's not running oftentimes. It's a giant block of ice, so we'll get into it and see now understanding how this region works. We should have 115 volts supplied to that fan at all times. It never shuts off.

Even in defrost, the power is the same power source that powers the bottom. So my bottom fan motors running, so it's pretty good odds that we have power to that fan motor, but I'm gon na go and get a seven sixteenths nut driver and we're gon na pull that guard off and take a look in there all right. We got the guard off. Let's open this up, mind you this has this should have power, so you got to be careful.

You can only get shocked unnecessarily, so it's not iced up, which is I'm completely blown away. It should be frozen solid, but the fan motor is not running. That's interesting. It doesn't feel like it's locked up, huh love to dive.

In I mean yeah. I think it is locked up. You tell by the way it's stopping. I'm gon na have to open that out, but it adds a horrible wire connection down in there.

Sometimes there's nothing you can do on these old ones. You got ta have a connection like that, so I unplugged the motor and we have a hundred and fifteen volts going to the motor. So we've got a bad fan motor, but I have a feeling there's more to it, because knowing this system, this should be frosty and frozen up, so we're gon na change the fan motor first and then go from there. I haven't done a video on it yet, but my new van setup, but it's a mess - I still haven't completely organized it.

But I've got this four drawer shelf unit and should commonly change these motors. So I got one right back here and I swapped out the motor, but before I install it we're gon na clean out that pan chiller because oftentimes you can see, there's like gunk and stuff in there. But it's huge. It goes the entire length and it's usually full of nasty food and different things, but before we do that, I want to look into why this thing's not cold right now, because it should be nice and frosty.

So if we come over here to their electrical panel - and we open this up, this is my breaker right there, and this is the temperature controller in the time clock. So, first and foremost, the time is incorrect. It is 9:47 a.m. and it says 7:00 p.m.

so. That's not good 19:47. So that's the correct time at defrost all-night on the cold rail, but this timer right here has a battery backup built into it and it should never lose time. So it's a very good possibility that it's bad, but at the flip on the flip side we got ta wonder is have they been messing on it messing with it too.

So I don't know that's the question. This no is the problem, so it says, EP Edward Paul. I believe that means bad Pro. We're gon na open it up and I'll show you how to tell so.

The temp control holds itself in because of the design, but if you flip this over, it tells you EP means probe failure or out of range, and it means that from this control was changed by me all the way back in 2017, the time clock was changed By us back in 2018, I don't know if that time, clocks, bad or not, I'm contemplating giving that another shot just setting the time on it, but we're definitely gon na have to change this control. Now you can buy the probes. I don't stop just the probes anymore and you can just change the probe, but I have a whole control. We're gon na put a whole control in there.

I'm not gon na waste. My time going to supply house just to buy a probe. You just kind of think about the practicality I got other places to be so they just get it control now. This isn't quite correct, but this probe is built into the box and it's been changed so many times that we have to run it exposed, rather than just having the probe sitting on the pan chiller.

We ran it in a copper line. Again, it's not correct. It's just sometimes you got to do what you got to do it, but if you look at ah there's actually a pinch point, so I'm gon na pull the probe out push the new one in. We should be able to feed it right through that copper line, and then it comes over into this electrical panel.

It actually comes right over here back there is that copper line and then feeds right here so I'll push it through real, quick we've got the new probe pushed through on these new ones. You got to be careful, because these ends they're not hard anymore. They used to be hard and I've actually broken the sensors before on the new ones. You got to be cautious because they're, soft and don't and we got ta push T and get the fan motor actually and then before I push it in we're actually gon na go ahead and soak that pan chill and I'll show you how we do that.

The first thing I do is just pour some water in there and make sure that it actually drains out make sure the drains aren't plugged up okay and I'm coming over here and it's trickling out of the drain. But trust me when i sanitized this you'll see chunks of crap coming out, then the next thing we're gon na do is be very careful use some sanitizer, I'm using bleach, but you got to be cautious about chemicals that you use because they can have chemical reactions. Don't cause any problems, wad up some plastic wrap that won't get stuck in the drain for your sanitizer in there, whatever you use again being careful about food and different things and then fill it with hot water. Let it sit for about 10-15 minutes, then flush that dream with buckets on hot water and you'll, see the crap flying out of that dream.

You can see how they could really open that up, but I mean I guess they had to do what they had to do. There was a leak, I'm assuming right in that area or something like that and someone else did it besides me, but they cut the unit all anyways, I let it sit for a little while this one's not horrendous, so it's probably gon na be okay, so we're Gon na go ahead and pull the drain and watch out. This is bleach water, so you don't wan na get it on your clothes and we'll go over and see should be getting a good flow and again this one's, not bad. If you do this often it won't be as bad, but if you don't do it very often, it fills up nasty with snuff in there.

So it's always good to do it. You just got to be careful about the chemical reactions and being cautious about that, and we've got a pretty good drain coming out, so we're just gon na. Let it run for a bit it'll, also that bleach water will also help to break up anything in the drain lines too, but you got to be careful because these are common dreams, meaning that this base section is connected to that and on the other side, there's A base section, so if the drain is clogged up, it could be overflowing that bleach water inside the box. So you really got to think about that.

I wasn't able to catch it on camera, but you can see that the flow is increasingly larger and that's because it's been breaking up stuff in the drain lines and it's getting better flow. You can see the chunks of stuff that are coming out that drain. They got messes all right, you can see. We got a nice clean, pan, chiller we've got a fan motor wait a minute, that's not spinning fast enough.

Oh maybe they're tripping me out. No, that's not moving enough air there's a problem there. I got ta figure it out. It's a bad electrical connection right here.

We need to redo that there's a problem there. It started to smoke a little bit right there. So that's probably what caused an issue with the old motor, so I'm gon na pull it apart. So yeah it's a bad connection.

You can see it just has corroded. The only problem is that it's really tight to get in there and strip those wires. Now, that's what sucks about these regions there's no play and that's why we had to run the sensor. The way we did so, hopefully I can get in there and strip it if not.

We're gon na have to run new power, which will be a nightmare, but I'm trying to figure this out. That's insane because that wire is so short, but I was able to pull my thing and pull it up through that. This is just so. I can get it stripped once I get it stripped I'll, put connectors on it and then I'll push it back down through very carefully and then have a long connection.

This is very tricky, I'm having to do a 1 wire at a time, doing a bundt, splice and then heat shrink and then push the other wires through. So this this is the ground wire. This is the only one. This is the first one and then we'll do each one after that.

This is a serious pain in the butt. Here's the power wire, we're gon na do a butt, splice and all I'm doing is extending ups and then we're gon na add the hand kit on here so yeah this is a chore, but it's gon na go okay, one bit over time. All right, we got them all through all Heat strength and then now we got this to work with to extend the wires. I just need to connect this connector and put an end on the ground, told you I'd win how's about them apples.

So now we got that then then I got a ground light. The other one didn't have a ground wire, but it was chipped off so I'll. Just connect that and then hope everything works. Nice all right since they're back in there and motors blowing a crap ton of air, that's good, we're good we're gon na put it together and bolt it all down all right, so we're actually reading temperature now and we're going to set this down for 23 degrees.

That's what we run on it with a three degree: differential boom kicked on so we're good, it's running when they go on the roof and make sure we got a clear sight, glass and everything's good up there and watch it get nice and frosty down here. So come up to the roof and the compressor is hot, but it's not running so, let's open up the control cabinet and see if maybe it's off on defrost system - f, no, it's not off on defrost! So why wasn't this guy running good question? All right? I put my gauges on the unit and the compressor is like I said it was warm it's hot to touch on the head and I turned off the power to it and went ahead and checked across the windings and checking across the windings I'm getting open. So it looks like we might be off on thermal overload, so let me try to cool the head of this compressor and then see if we can get it to start back up. I think I've had a problem with this compressor before which makes me think we might have an oil issue or something so.

I've got the cool, presser tool running. You can see the steam rising off the compressor that bad boy is hot, so I'm gon na. Let the cool presser run for a little while and then I'll try to see if it'll reset. Hopefully, of course it's raining on me now, you know.

What's all this work, one thing after another right, but my calls tend to work all right, so I cooled it off. Yeah, I'm gon na save you the trouble of showing every single one, but we got continuity, so we're gon na plug it in and turn it on cross our fingers. This guy starts. I still don't know why it would have shut off, though that's the scary part.

Six amps it's running, I'm gon na watch it for a bit and see if the site glass clears up and see what happens. Pressures are not horrendous. Condenser fan motor is cycling like it should be they're all cycling on temperature. Now that it's raining pretty good, I need to close this electrical compartment or something gets wetter than it should all right.

So I have a theory. I had shut off the breaker to this system and there's no electrical communication between the roof and downstairs. It just simply works off of a low pressure control if this low pressure control wasn't shutting off and in theory, that compressor could have gone off on internal, so we're gon na make sure I'm gon na. Let it run for a bit.

My sight glass is running clear, so that's good, but we're gon na make sure that the low-pressure control actually shuts off a little pressure if it doesn't just sit up here at the roadrunner, when I figure out why this compressor shut off from Kerrville. Okay, let's kick again it in to defrost see what happens should have closed the cylinder valve. I believe so, let's see what happens when I do that they'd have pumped down and actually shuts off. We go try to get stuff done getting too low.

Just like thought. Watch will crush your controlled bad, so when I shut it off downstairs, it was just uphill running around could actually compress will it off. We got a bad low pressure. Bingo love changing, especially on these systems.

Look at the high side floors. You can't take it off. All right, let's open this guy up, I'm letting it run it's coming down. It's out, 40 degrees right now, so it's still gon na be a while, but I'm gon na have to recover that charge right now.

So I'm gon na take a short cut here and I'm gon na try to do this without having to evacuate the system or change the dryer. I'm gon na pull it down to a slightly positive pressure into a hot swap on the pressure control, real quick. So that's the plan seriously, I'm just about to start throwing the receptacle and plug into you only have 70 volts coming out of it. Frustrating is all get up.

You know. Sometimes this happens and try not to lose my temper a couple about to so I'm hoping that my portal plug in something down that repacks right there, I'm hoping I'm gon na get started while that's recovering, I'm gon na monitor it and I'm gon na get started On flopping out this control, I'll just put the old one to the side, while I'm recovering get it all electrically hooked up and everything. Okay, so we're getting close to being done and we've only recovered approximately nine. The minimum factory charge on this is 14 pounds.

The factory is actually when they did the inflation, so we look like we might be low on gas, so we will likely have to add some refrigerants business. Keep running, get a little bit lower. We receiver and check the liquid level. All right wasn't too hard, like.

I said pump it to a positive pressure. Swapped it out real quick got him on. There were leaf braids see, we still have pressure in the system, but concerning is the whole nine pounds because the minimum charges 14. So I'm gon na go ahead and add this refrigerant back into the system and then we're gon na add some more and check the liquid level ders.

I'm hooked back up to the recovery cylinder. I purged my lines. You wrote out the scale we're gon na go ahead and add charge into the high side right now see as much gas as it will take and then we'll charge in the difference and just for giggles. I did go ahead and did the math to make sure that the scale was accurate.

When I first started this, I weighed the cylinder by itself and then I subtracted the total weight made sure that it was like nine pounds that I recovered so but all right. So I'm gon na push that in there and then we'll start it up here in a minute took about seven pounds without turning it on it's been sitting for about four minutes, so I'm gon na go ahead and fire it up and we'll finish charging it up. Pressures to drop and we're gon na start adding gas into the low side. I don't expect it's going to take the whole nine pounds, because there's got to be more volume in the tank than what you're going to put into the system, basically to push it in.

So there's always going to be remnants by the time you suck in what you can you're only gon na be able to suck in to the lowest pressure that it's running on this unless you've pumped it down and went into a vacuum. But you can't do that on one of these, so there's always going to be leftover refrigerant in the page, all right, so I put it into defrost, so it would pump down and it's gon na pull as much out at cylinder as possible. I'm also able to test the low-pressure control to see what it shuts off out to sew. It shut off too early about 20 psi, I'm checking across the switch.

So we need to adjust the control a little bit more because we need to get it down to about fry cut out at like 10 psi all right, so it shut off a little too low. This time I went down to zero and turn back on at 20, so I just got to adjust it a little bit more okay. I was able to fine-tune it and I got it to cut in about 20 psi and cut out about 7 psi. We won't have to see if that'll work as we're going into the summer.

That should be fine where it will spring in the winter time we kind of run a problem with out with the cold ambient temps and a little small pan chiller. That runs. We run really low suction pressure with one just that one pan chiller that I was working on today runs, but this controls the base sections too so when everything's running it will cut in and out, but in the winter time. If just the pan chiller is running, you run into some issues, but I think we're gon na be good, so I'm gon na fire this guy up for real and take it out of pump down all right.

So what I did was, I was able to put 16 pounds of gas, including the recovery cylinder. The factory charge is 14 pounds of gas, but that's not a 3/4 of a receiver. I know that for a fact, the 14 pounds of gas is like half the receiver or something so 16. Pounds is all that I have in that cylinders empty now, so the max I could put in their total charge of 16 pounds.

I know that it could take more if I filled up the receiver all the way to the 3/4 mark, but I know I'm not going to be there yet. So that's gon na be all they're gon na get for now. We'll talk to them see if they want us to come back into a leak search. I really don't know that they're gon na want to again we're in the middle of this virus and they just want minimal repairs so, but they're gon na be operational now.

So all right, this guy is almost down to temp it's at 31 degrees. Right now, let's take a look up top nice and block. If you like, it's supposed to be fan motors, running dude, so yeah we're good. This was another one of those that started out as something simple I walked up, and I thought it was just a fan.

Motor went through the trouble of changing the fan motor found that the wires shorted out la-dee-da was difficult, fixed that to find another hurdle, the bad temperature controller went ahead and replaced the temperature controller to find that the compressor wasn't running cooled down. The compressor got thermal overload reset and then found the reason why? Ok again, when we look at the big picture, we are solving the problem, not the symptom, we're not going in there and just saying boom. This is done, you're good, to go. We're going through everything.

Ok but, most importantly, the entire time we're keeping the customer involved, we're letting them know what's going on we're letting them make some of the decisions, we're just giving them the information and saying hey, here's what I'm finding this is how we should approach this. We have to start with this. Then we move on to the next step. That's troubleshooting! Ok, it's not a walk in and say you got a bad fan.

Motor it'll cost you X number of dollars to fix, and then it gets really confusing. After that. Ok, we always give ourselves a disclaimer and let them know that you know we have to do this before we can move on to the next step. Alright, it's always the customers decision.

You know to decide which way they want to go now. The unit also had a refrigerant leak and I went ahead and topped off the charge and for now, like I kind of said in the video and thought they don't want me to leak for a leak at this time. They want to just let it go and see if we have any more issues with it. You know when I make these videos I'm trying to share my thought process in the way that I go through things.

Ok, I am not perfect. My way is not the only way to do things. I realize that other people have different ways of doing it. Ok, this is just a glimpse and how my brain kind of works - okay - and I know it's kind of screwy - and you can probably see my craziness coming out when I when I try to express myself, but that's just how it works.

Okay, I really really appreciate you guys taking the time to watch these videos. Remember that I do live streams Monday evenings at 5:00 p.m. Pacific time work, permitting, of course, where I usually answer all the questions that I get in comments and emails and different things. Okay, you guys can feel free to send me an email at hvac, our videos at gmail.com.

My information is also in the show notes of this. Video also have a new youtube. Channel called hvac are tools. I've got one video up at the moment.

I should be having another one coming up shortly and i'll start posting on that channel, to where i can just share my opinion on different tools that i have and what i like and what i don't like about them. Okay, so again I really appreciate it and we will catch you guys on the next one: okay.