This video is brought to you by spore'ln quality, integrity and tradition, so you got a refrigeration rack and I've got multiple complaints of regions down system AB Scott problem system, E's got problem system, DS, got problems, the compressors are running, but the sight glasses are not clear And I just put my gauges on the last one and we are running low, refrigerant pressures, it's about 7080 degrees outside somewhere in there, so we're running low pressure. So we definitely look like with low on charge. So I'm going to put some gas in here and then we're gon na move on down the line. So this is interesting that all of these are having problems.

At the same time, what's likely, the culprit is just refrigerant leaks in general. Basically fact it's just. I got multiple lead, regens downstairs or something going on down here at the bottom is compressed, might just be a straighter, Lincoln or something yeah we're getting some pressure now really really low brushes. You can look at the saturation temperatures we're dealing for four, and the boxes are all like 50 degrees downstairs.

Sightglass has got a lot of calcium buildup on it because last summer we had to use misters because we got so hot, so it kind of created some damage. As we've been having repairs, we've been changing out the sight glasses, so these ones, if I get some a ones - hopefully we're just gon na - get him some gas for now, get them up and running. So, as my head pressure increases, you can see we're out to 13. The head pressure control valve stops bypassing so the head pressure, control valve bypass is probably anything either under 210 or 180, depending on the setting, and so now it's stopping the whole bypassing process and then you're really starting to see the sight glass go crazy.

So this thing it's pretty low on refrigerant, you look at our saturation temperatures we're looking a lot better we're getting closer to being charged, but we're still out with the sight glass is starting to clear out meaning it'll clear up for a second but then continue to Bubble so we're almost there, but that's only the charge if it didn't have a head pressure control valve okay, because our head pressure is above the bypass pressure of the head pressure control valve. So that means that when we clear the sight glass, it's only four. If it didn't have the head pressure control valve, so we still have to calculate what the winter charges. So we still have to add the extra refrigerant to that receiver so that we, when that head pressure, drops and the head pressure control valve, bypasses, there's enough refrigerant to keep the sight glass clear.

This guy was severely low. So obviously, there's going to be some leaks too. So what we're gon na do is I'm gon na get them running and we're gon na come back tomorrow morning and rip the boxes apart and find the leaks. These are all kyrat coils, so I'm sure we'll have a few expansion valve power heads to change and things we're getting almost cleared up on that site glass and if you can tell from the picture, there's a dye in this system.

So that's why it's kind of that blue color things you hate, but it is what it is all right. Well, system app is coming down in temp it's gon na take a while. Those expansion valves are flooding I jumped over to system II and I am not a happy camper because I am equalized out at 83 psi and I went ahead and put my meter on here and we have three-phase power going to this compressor. One way: there's another leg, there's the last leg, so we have 208 three-phase going to it.

So we got to cool this guy down and hope puts off on internal overload I'll going to turn off the power and then we'll check the windings on that. So I've got that cool, presser tool, cooling, the compressor, nice and slow and get it cooled off and hopefully the windings already set. I did check them and they were open. One thing it sucks about these racks everything's electrical in here.

So I'm glad. I'm short. Nothing. Now we'll see we can do all right, so I think I've got it cooled off.

It's still warm, let's test the resistance see if it's reset I've pulled off the wires off the compressor terminals and I've got my meter set to ohms. I'm gon na go one point. Six one point: six checking all three 1.60, all three windings ohm out the same. So we're going to go ahead and put the wires back on and try to turn it on and see if it runs all right system ease down here, we're going to flip it on it's running dodge the bullet button put the cover on and get it.

I vetted low uncharged yeah, so we're gon na get a charged up where's the head pressure at though I wonder if I don't have my valve open up there we go now we have had pressure, we've got going on site. Glass is actually pretty clear. That's alarming! It's the oil sigh class, the fight oil level is really get a look. It looks very low, almost looks completely out of oil, maybe not maybe it's full.

You know. I know it's full. I think sometimes it's hard to tell on those things. Alright, so I'm gon na get watch it for a minute I'll turn the camera back on.

I want to make sure that say: bus yeah, it's not scary, so compressors suction lines coming back nice and cold. Now sightglass is flashing, so I'm still working on clearing it up some bubbles in there just shut off here all kinds of problems today, so I'm gon na get this sight. Glass cleared up not a little extra for the winter charge, I'll figure out how much that is, and then the compressor contactor well, the data plate says, can run 10 amps. We were running like 9.5 or something like that, but the compressor contactor looks a pretty burn.

So we'll check that out too I'll show it to you in a minute all right, so we're running right on the border of being over amping on this bad boy. This contactor is not horrible, but it doesn't look good, but it doesn't have a voltage drop. I checked the voltage drop across it, so I'm gon na go ahead and change out that contactor, real, quick and just to verify, there's nothing going on so remember. We were running right about 10 amps 9.9.

So, let's see what happens when I swap it out. Mr. Payne, I don't have one of these fancy contactors, but make sure my coil bolts are just correct on an assumption. It was too okay, so I put in at 200 a 240 it's a new contactor, it's just all dirty because my fingers, but it's all in there, so we're going to fire it up and see what happens it's starting to rain.

So I got ta get out of here. There goes nothing like that. That's not good! Doesn't sound good! Something happened here. The rotation didn't get changed.

What happened is making a god-awful noise right now, Oh interesting, I had to figure this out. It was making a weird noise like it was running backwards, but I didn't reverse the rotation. I put everything back where it was interesting, I'll figure it out cool thing about having video is, I went back and I looked at and I did mix up the phases. So we should be good now running about eight amps and we're gon na.

Let it run for a minute and then test it again, give it a second for the sight glass to clear up, make sure everything it's good, where we're going to give it a early. Didn't add much gas to this one we're gon na give it a minute. It almost looks like the oils overfilled, everyone saw, you see a bubble, but it's almost like it's got too much oil in it very dirty. I don't know.

Maybe not you know what now that I look at it right now. It looks like it might be like half-full, it's just a really dirty oil sightglass, it's hard to tell man. This compressor has not taken a break. These things are full out in back we're.

We a 9.5, I mean we're, not amazing, we're a little bit better. We were, we were pushing 10 amps before so we'll see. Well, let it run for a bit see if we have any issues mind you it's under a heavy load right now, so I got to deal with that. That's something right about that box is just about to satisfy, so we must have a valve that severely overfeeding, but I can't I'm trying to get this other compressor.

The compressor shut off an overload again, so I am gon na go ahead and put some oil in it. It sucks so cos that sightglass is really dirty anyways. I got to do this quick because we don't want too much air getting in this. I primed the pump, meaning that I took a cup and did two squirts of oil clean my line out close the ball valve.

Now I opened it back up and I'm basically just going to pump it in there. This is cold, okay, so and then just give it a squirt, suction pressure's, a little too high. We might have to have the system I'm gon na have to get on it with two hands, because I'm fighting against 88 psi. I can do it just gon na.

Take me some strength, so I can put the camera down. I am cooling the compressor off again because it went off on thermal again. I got two pumps of oil in there, but the problem is, I can't see the oil level, so I'm taking a guess. It's it's a while, like it sucks, you know.

Definitely, if I can get this running and it works we're going to come back and change the oil sight gloss, so we can see properly and these units they have a history of losing oil and it's the design of the refrigeration piping and the evaporator coils. It gets stuck down in the coils, it's it's a crappy setup and design. It's like a chi rack, old-school cooks line and we literally just go down there. Take the power heads off and drain the oil out.

It's that stupid. You got to do it often just poor design, no good. I mean I have to do it every couple years. So it's not something that like and I usually don't add oil.

You know I usually don't run into this. Usually, what happens is if I have a bad power head when you take it off you're like oh, my gosh there's a tunnel, but this is interesting, so I don't know again I'm taking a guess that we might be a little low on oil because the way I can see something when it's running, but I can't see anything when it's all so we'll see, but I'm cooling it off. Hopefully I can get it to reset again all right, so I pulled up the Copeland mobile app and the r-la on this. According to Copeland, Mobile is 9.6 Copeland.

Mobile says that we're slightly out of range and that I should investigate further. I know that the unit now was low on oil, so when I come over here, let's see if I can show this to you guys now that I've added oil, I can actually see oil and the site glass. It's movie, you see it right at the top of that cyclist, there was no oil in there before so we may have already damaged the internals of this compressor. I added a good.

Let's see, this is a quart, so I added about half a quart. To that thing, to get the oil level and in actuality it's a little bit high because I couldn't see the last time I did a pump, so I'm running a little bit high, but usually my understanding is on these. While it's turned off, you want about half an oil sight glass when it's turned off, but I couldn't see anything when it was turned off. So this is one of those situations where I just have to kind of take a guess and then all of a sudden I could see it so we're just above half, while it's running so we're gon na, let it run for a few minutes.

I'm still a little concerned about it, but the other compressor it looks like it's calming down it's running still and it looks like something satisfying, so we got a valve in there. That's overfeeding or something like that. So we'll figure that out, but it's satisfying and calming down and not flooding back so much so I'm gon na let this run for a little bit longer hope it doesn't shut off on overload again and go from there all right. Well, it's running, but my camps are still really high and that compressor is from red.

I have a feeling we have internal. The DTC valve is metering refrigerant, so it is open. I can feel the temperature difference across it. Essentially, this acts like a expansion off kind of and the Confessor to help to core it now going like crazy, though so that's not worries me a little bit, but it's not really no adjustments.

Oh well, I'm coming back in the morning, I'm gon na be leak. Checking this system I'll follow up on this guy, I'm not gon na waste any more time here tonight I mean it's old. You know we got a cold suction line, got oil on the site glass now, so that's a plus. It's dropping in temperature because my suction pressure is dropping, but you know another thing: that's going on here too.

That I just realized is look at this. This makes me think we might have a damaged winding or something so: 10.5, amps, 10.6 amps, nine point, eight amps and there's nothing else on this. That goes directly to the compressor. That's system II.

There's nothing else on that, nothing else. It's three-phase right into it. The crankcase heater has its own power coming to it. There's nothing else inside that that would cause two legs.

They'll hate hampire, like I said, I'm just gon na. Let it go and we'll see what happens I'll check on it in the morning. So this is my unit that has the compressor problem when back today, I'm going through it, don't worry about the port na I'm going through getting TDS on the coil, because the box is about 43 degrees this morning, so return is at 40. The supply is at 38 - that's not a very big split, but we're gon na go ahead and check the other coils.

Now, there's multiple circuits and on some of them the ball. On the other side, the weights are side, it's satisfied in at 35 degrees. So it makes me think that we've got expansion, valves aren't working, so I'm just going through it right now. There's brought it up, so I'm gon na start checking.

Although this is another coil we're looking at the drywall's, 39 and 37, that's at this side right here we still have coils right here. That's not like be good, either only two degrees split. We should usually see a little bit more, but it's not like a sad number, but it's just you know I like to see a little bit bigger than five usually on, and this is the third coil look at that one. A 10 degree split supply and return on that coil.

So I'm making an assumption that we've got two TX B's that are probably or the coils are logged with oil, because where did that oil go from the compressors from experience? I bet you anything if we pull the power heads the oil will drain out of these things, such a crappy design, so I'm currently trying to pump the system down. I've got the receiver king valve over there on system P front seated, I'm just yesterday when I tried to pump this down and shut off on overload. So I don't know if it's going to happen or not about the pressure control got a screwdriver in there. So that way it doesn't not shut off prematurely.

Just wait. If I can get this to pump down I'll swap out power, heads real quick try to get those that try to working, but it looks like you got a sticky pressure control and someone wrote on here. No, maybe not, it needs to be adjusted all right, so it pumped down, but I got ta, let out the vapor. That's left in the system we can.

This is not something I could do a hot swap on these ones are going to be a pain in the butt. It's one thing: if it's really easy, but these ones are not, so we just let out the residual vapor, that's left in the system, nothing! You can do about that and then we'll go from there, so I clip the power head and it didn't spray at me, so that indicates a bad tower head. Let's see if we're full of oil too, we've got to watch out too, because there's pins in here that are gon na fall out and away a smell oil, but it's not coming out which worries me. The pins got really dirty.

I'm gon na clean them off. If they had fallen down in the drain pan, what I do is get the powerhead ready like this. So that way I can just pull the bulb as I'm tighten it on it's a pain in the butt. It's never fun, especially on these tight little ones.

Sometimes what you can do, though, trying to create a lead kind of bend the belt out of the way a little bit so that way, it'll work better, so I got ta get the pins back in there and then got to swap the showerhead. So I'm worried. I didn't get oil out of there because, where did half a port go it's somewhere? Okay, both swimmer there. It is starting and then literally just pull on it and twist it and I'll worry about winding the power deck up once I get it tight.

This is a 30 inch capillary, so hopefully I don't run out of capillary, which I think I might yeah like. Second we're going to so I'm gon na have to very carefully twist it back through. There was a sixty it'd be easier, but 30s are nicer because less extra left over yeah okay check the Clark getting the tightly done. So I need to use leverage his wrench there yeah that's about tight one, more a quarter turn! No, that's it so we're.

In now, I got to clean up the power head and mount it. So what I'm gon na do is take the powerhead we're gon na leave that little bit of slack down there push it back in the valve. So that way it's not hitting the wall. I don't use this for soap bubbles anymore.

It has a few. I pour some big glue in here, but I literally just use it for wrapping power. Heads that way. I can get a nice tight rap used to use a mag flashlight mag light, but it was not very popular.

What's that the old one, all right, you don't want to just slam these power hit sensing bulbs in there. You got to do it. Nice take pride in your jerk in your job, even though you're, probably the only person that's gon na see it always assume that there's another person coming behind you that's going to talk. Also, it's not really the right thing to mount these valves upside down, but this is the way the manufacturer has built these boxes.

So it's really difficult to change it without, like repiping things, don't want to over-tighten these nice and good nice and good. I think we can get the cover on now. You know, when you're working on these small little lines like this you're not going to get them mounted on the perfect spot on the line you just got to deal with what you got. So I got both of those power.

Heads changed out want to point out something. This is why I like having Flair dryers on the roof, because I don't have to drive my torches up here. So I'm just gon na you know basically take apart this valve and the sight glass try to clean up the sight glass because I don't have another one. You look back on and I don't have to drink my torches up here across our fingers.

Well, it's very frustrating. This is how these jobs go, though, so the one that I showed you guys me changing the power head on that one still isn't working so the power head. When I clipped the tip on it or the sensing element, it didn't have a pressure charge, but even after that, I'm getting no TD across that coil. The other two coils on getting about five to eight degrees, TV now different temperature differential between supply and returns.

So the other two are working, but the middle coil is not and looking at it. I don't think, there's anything wrong with the valve. I think that there might be before the t -- xv there might be. A restriction may be a phrase joint or something like that.

So I'm gon na go ahead and talk to the customer and get the parts at a minimum. I'm going to change the liquid length solenoid valve and repipe it I'm going to go ahead and replace the t. -- xv put a braised new one in braise it in and I'm considering changing the coil to just because of the age of it all the braids. I'm going to be doing it, that's right on that one! Now it's like a whirlwind morning.

I have to jump back to this pizza station, okay, because that cyclist is already silently flashing again and I put 15 pounds of gas in it. Yesterday, the factory charges 15 pounds, so this thing's got to have a big league. So it's like a nightmare. It's like 10, something a.m.

right now, they're gon na open at 11:00. I've got another guy here too working on another reach and it's just like a cluster F this morning. So let's hope this compressor holds up so far so good. We are flooding back to the compressor right now it is nice and cold.

I'm gon na put my gauges on this and we're gon na try to find the leak on that pizza station. Also on the pizza station. I don't know if all the stages are calling and I want pressure on all sides of the system. So what I did was, I turned off the breaker.

It was running and we're gon na go ahead and equalize out our lines, highside and low-side. That way we have equal pressure on both sides. So that way, it doesn't matter if another solenoid valve or another one of the circuits downstairs is calling we're gon na have to equal pressure on the high side on the low side of the system. So we can just go to town trying to find a leak.

Now I'm looking for something giant, I'm not in here looking for a bubble bubble, I'm looking for something big, because if it's already flashing after putting 15 pounds of gas, it's got to be something but we'll see so yeah. There's our big-ass leak on the pizza one. The coil itself down below, looks all nasty fun stuff, so there's a giant leak right. There can't really miss it.

This system has died so see it right there boom, but I'm kind of curious. I bet you there's other leaks, so this coil looks like crap. I was kind of hoping I could find another one, but that leak is so big. I need to fix it.

We're just checking the other coils real, quick and we're gon na braise it off before all right. This thing is really nasty. I tried sanding it and it doesn't want to stand up very well. It's like right in there.

So what I did was. I took one of my fitting brushes cut the end off put it on my drill and I'm gon na get in there and try to sand the hell yeah. It looks good. Now we got a lot of this stuff off.

I don't see anything that caused that leak. This is a ground wire. So no word about that, but I don't know they all inspect all the wiring to fire. Think it took notice.

I pulled off all the sensing bolts and then there was some wires tied to the top of that pipe. That's why they're hanging down now hold all those odds wanting to burn up some besan here all right, so I've got a new dryer put in we've raised that leak downstairs. I've got a vacuum running right now, there's a couple of things: there's a lot of stuff. I want to fix about this box.

This copper right here has really twisted up and and stuff, but right now is not the time I might fix it. When I come back because we are going to submit a quote to replace any vibrator coil so we'll see, I want to point something else out to you know: I'm not a fan of using your manifold, as you know, vacuuming down through it and stuff like that. But at the same time, this is an instance where, in my opinion, it works out for me. Okay, because I have a pump down system, it's a very small length.

Okay, I'm just pulling the coils downstairs. I'm only pulling through one hose anyways, it's kind of a messed up situation, because there's a Schrader right here. So, yes, I could put my big vacuum hoses on him, but here's my thing - and I've mentioned this before when we're pulling on a pump down system, nothing in there is completely leak free. So, theoretically, if I tried to get down to 200 microns, which is what we would aim for on a refrigeration system, I'm going to be honest with you.

I'm probably gon na pull the refrigerant out of the system. The Keene valve on that receiver back there, which is right down here, is not leak free, both the referring that is holding back the refrigerant right now that and the scroll set for the high side. Basically, so the refrigerant is in the high side, the condenser and the receiver and then the suction side and all the evaporators has no refrigerant right now, so we're pulling against some valves that are going to lead. So it's not perfect, but in this situation I don't mind using my manifold to pull a vacuum because it's not going to be a very good vacuum.

Anyways, there's also been some documentation that I've read that says that there's oil in that refrigerant boiling off the whole time. So, theoretically, the system was still slightly under pressure, even though my gauge read zero that oil is still boiling out of there, which theoretically should help to keep moisture out of the system. But still I'm not saying you don't have to pull it back in. You still need to pull a vacuum, but it's not so critical in my opinion, and that's just my two cents.

Okay, so yes, I love using my my a pion mega flow hoses or my true blue hoses, whichever ones, but in this situation I don't see a need for it or a necessity. So that's why I'm just pulling through my manifold set, and you know again, I'm not perfect. I'm not saying this is the only way to do it, but I'm just saying you know in a situation like this, I am gon na pull through my manifold. So, as I was coming down from the roof, I noticed something fell from the dryer.

It's crazy. I might cut this one open as pull-up. Now I am charging it. I'm gon na clear up the cyclist and check the receiver level.

I know that when we fill this one up, it should be at the 3/4 mark. We have a mark there, so I'll fill it up market. We know that it can't take anymore approaching and we're gon na be there's there's other leagues, so we're gon na be coming back to find the other leagues well from what you guys can see right now. You probably realize that I'm gon na have to change this compressor.

This thing is turning into the biggest cluster F in a long time, so compressors been running for a week. It is now the Friday after I filmed the first original service call, then running fine amps have been fine. I got a quote approved to go ahead and come back out and replace the TX be that was bad and the evaporator coil and I came back out today to pump the system down and change the valve oil on the TX B and the compressor was off On overload so we're not playing with it anymore, we're gon na go ahead and change. The compressor will do the coil in the TX v another day, because the entire unit is down again.

So what a mess but anyways we're going to swap this out shouldn't be too difficult. The rotor lock valves came off, so we should be able to. I just got a phrase on some rotor lock valve adapters on here, so so we can get. I've shown this before, but we start by putting the rotor lock adaptors it's very difficult to find an actual rotor, lock scroll compressor in my area often times they only have the sweat, and so you got to use these rotor lock adapters from Copeland.

So you got a silver solder them on this one's, not perfect, but you know it is what it is. You got to use a coupling, but everything looks good, it's cleaned, so we're ready to try to push this guy in there all right. So we're working our way along we've got a new rotor lock valve because the other one was in really bad shape. Unfortunately, they didn't have a factory Copeland one, so I only get one port, so I'm gon na have to put a service T on there, because I do need a port for my pressure control the discharge roto.

I don't really see anything wrong with this, so I'm going to leave that one be. I got a new dtc valve. I do have to figure out a new configuration because the old one was flare and this new one is 3/8, but no big deal I'll. Just uh unsought it and sweat a new adapter on there.

Everything is put on loose. We don't have any gaskets in there, yet we'll put those all in last. That way, I can do everything I need. I ended up to make this easier too.

Instead of trying to unswept the old valve, I had a piece of inch and 1/8 copper, so we just unswept here pulled it out, so you can see the old valves back there. So we're working our way along we're moving along and got the vacuum pump running on it. It's a little bits at a time we're starting to clean up. We got a giant mess up here of stuff everything going on, but we're getting there so we're gon na.

Let it vacuum down for a bit and then now we still have to come back and change a coil. Why stop that? Right when I realized that the compressor was off, because I need the rest of the system running, so that's what a mess! If you look at the sight glass, you can actually see the nitrogen that the compressor was charged with from the factory bubbling out in the bubbling out of the sight glass. So, that's why you know sometimes these vacuums they take a long time we're just sitting there pulling it all out. So what you can do is just grab the compressor and agitate it.

You can try eating it up too, but I just agitate it shaking everything. Sorry of shaking you guys up, but yeah agitate the compressor and you can kind of speed up the process of the bubbling out, but it takes a while for all that nitrogen. So you know when their pressure charge, that stuff's got all come out of the oil and that becomes non-condensibles in your system. Now I have a very strong feeling that we have refrigerant leaks in this system too.

In fact, I'm pretty confident we do so. I'm probably not going to attain a perfect vacuum, but I got to try to get most of this stuff out of it. If I can so I'm in the process of charging this guy right now, I'm weighing in the factory charge, which is 14 pounds and then we're gon na mark the receiver. So we don't have to overfill it anymore.

Here's the thing this thing did not pull down to a good vacuum, but remember I'm pretty confident we have leaks in the system, but this is one of the things sometimes you run into. I can't go fix every leak right now, like we've, got to get them running and then we'll come back and fix the leaks, which means that we did not get a perfect vacuum. Unfortunately, that happens sometimes in refrigeration, even on some older air conditioners. Sometimes that happens.

You you know, customer doesn't want to fix them, you got to get them running, you know, yeah, there's all kinds of things. You know the life of the compressor is gon na, be shortened all kinds of stuff, but you can only do what you can do and you just guys sometimes get it running. So I was able to pull it down to about nine hundred microns and it was slowly rising. That's about as good as we can get.

I know that we're pulling against other leaks downstairs. It is what it is. You just got to deal with it, so I'm just about weighed in as much as I could I'm getting ready to turn this guy on right now and then we're gon na check the phase, and then you get them up and running. Hopefully.

Last but not least, we're gon na do a quick leak check to make sure so I shut the compressor off while it was running just checking all my fittings, real, quick, I'm not seeing anything. This is my second pass put on all the spots. There's like a little bit of oil right here on this, I don't see anything so that's probably just from us moving stuff around things. Looking good all right, so this guy's running now and look at our amps or amps are pretty good.

If I remember right, we were pretty close to 10 last time and we're at like eight seven and a half seven and in the amps you know we're not getting that weird spike across the legs either this time so cool we're. Looking good we're gon na. Let this one run like I said, we'll be back two chains out of the coil now scheduled for another morning. Well we're running it's charged, so that's it for now.

Pardon my messy-ass garage okay, but this is my saw that I used to cut everything up. So I went ahead and cut this dryer apart. Okay, this is the dryer on the pizza system, because I told you that there was a bunch of stuff. Now, let's look at this very carefully: I'm gon na try to zoom in look at how it has the texture of the inside of the copper.

That's like something that was caked to the walls of the copper. You can see it on my finger. That's very interesting! Now I'm very curious. We obviously know that the system had died, but I don't think the dye had anything to do with it.

You can all be used to see because the core is that yellow color, but all this black stuff is what came out of that dryer and I don't think it's the the carbon buildup from brazing without nitrogen. I I have a hunch that this is leak sealant. I could be completely wrong. I honestly don't know I'd be curious to get this analyzed, but I think it's leak sealant and the reason why I think it's leak sealant is because you can tell that it had coated the copper.

You can see right here how it was stuck to the sides of the wall. I don't know tell me what you guys think. What do you guys think that that is it's very interesting. It was obviously caught on the inlet.

It's very very intrigued by how this whole thing you can see. It's it's all inside there very interesting huh. Look at that! What is that stuff? I actually had. One of my suppliers take a sample of it because, after I showed you guys how I tapped on it and it fell out, I took it to the supply house and I was telling him about it and he took a sample and he was gon na.

Try to see if one of the people would send it in for analysis to see what it was. I am really curious to know. I don't know, maybe it's something to do with the dye. I don't think so.

I think that it's a leak sealant, I do know for a fact that the system f - that's not the one that I changed, the compressor on, but the one that I had the giant leak on. They had someone come in after me from the manufacturer of that entire equipment and repair a leak on it and after they repaired that leak. I found empty cans of leak, sealant on the roof and I was really pissed off because we don't use leaks alone in our systems and I really wonder if this is from that. What a cluster right.

But I mean in all honesty when it's all said and done: I enjoy those jobs, they're just very frustrating when you're in the moment, so we initially had a service call where the customer said everything was down and those always frustrate me because when they say everything's Down usually get there, it's just like one thing: okay, but this time they actually had quite a few things that were down. Basically, their whole cooks line was completely down between the system en system. F. You know that's everything, the other third compressor that I said they were having a problem with.

It ended up being nothing at this point. We may address it later, but it was still working, okay, so refrigerant leaks. At least I thought we definitely had a refrigerant leak on system F system ie. The compressor was turning on and off on internal overload.

I got it going, but you know inevitably, I'm assuming that the oil that was in the system had damaged it beyond belief, and that was just a big issue. So I shouldn't say beyond belief, but it had damaged it internally and it was just causing issues, and my theory was was that when it warmed up outside this week, we hit about 85. That's when they'd really start to see the issues when it was cool at nighttime. They didn't really have too many problems, but you know again it's it's hard to say exactly what happened there.

I did save the compressor, so I am going to cut it up whether or not I'll get that on video. I don't know, but I do like to autopsy those compressors. So in situations like that, you know you definitely. I showed a little bit more of my frustration, a little bit more of the chaos that goes on and it's you know, there's a lot of pressure.

That's involved in those things because they're constantly saying why is everything down? What do you got to do and you get there and it's Friday afternoon and you're like uh, you know and then you just run into those problems, but you know, even though I showed my stress, you know you just try to take it. One thing at a time and move on down the line. You know I keep things in my vehicle, such as a can of pol. I don't deal with compressors too much bigger than that.

So you know a quart is plenty for me. You know in that situation when I need oil. I add it now. This is a really good example.

I had a video a couple months back on an AC that it was vibrating. It caused a discharge line leak and it was really loud and a lot of the comments on that where why didn't you add oil? To that compressor, adding oil would have solved the problem. You would have been good. No.

This is a great example. Most of the time when you have a low oil situation, if it's gotten to the point where it's causing the compressor to go off on overload and or it's really loud majority of the time, the damage is already done, and it's too late. That's why proper preventative maintenance is very important when it comes to this kind of stuff you guys saw. I went ahead and added oil to the compressor and it still was problematic, and inevitably I still had to change the compressor.

So today I went back to go ahead and change the the expansion valve in the evaporator coil and right. When I had. I had another person with me and I said: hey: will you go up on the roof and pump the system down and he called me and says: do this thing's off on overload so then I jumped up there, you know verified, looked out and it's like dang. It okay, I wasn't even gon na play with it anymore.

I didn't try to do anything. I didn't try to cool it. I just went ahead and edenal my contact at facilities and just said: hey. We got a bad compressor.

I need to change this first. We'll come back and address the leak can coil later he said cool. Do it so we went ahead and changed the compressor and, like I said, we'll schedule next week, sometime we'll go back in there and change that evaporator coil when they get in there early in the morning. Sometimes you got to change your plans.

You can't just go in there and just start changing the coil. You know you got to be open-minded, you know, and you know, in that situation I had to change everything up and go into the mode where I had to find a compressor. Luckily I had another person with me, so he could start recovering the gas by the time I came back with the new compressor. He had the old one out.

You know so, then, that's where it picked up where I started brazen on the road alot adapters and you know in the situation of those rotor lock adapters, that's something I run into all the time I like having the service valves on these compressors. Okay. Yes, you don't necessarily have to have them, because on the reciprocating compressors, we would use the service valves to try to pump down the suction line on a scroll. You don't do that, so the only purpose that those rotor lock valves really serve is if that compressor goes bad.

You know, theoretically, if the valve itself wasn't damaged, you could just valve off the road. A lock valve pull the compressor out, put the new one in and you wouldn't have to take all the refrigerant out of the system, but this one, the suction line, rotor lock valve - was pretty bad shape. I believe this compressor was from 2011. If I remember right so as a few years old, you know one of the things about these kyrat refrigeration racks.

I've mentioned it before, but the way that they're designed they're just massive compressor killers, meaning that they have several circuits. But when it cycles down to like one or two of the individual systems running on that circuit, it's not enough refrigerant. Coming back and over time, it starts to cause damage that also, I imagine, leads to some of the oil return problems too. So, for instance, if I just have one single pan chiller calling on this compressor, I think this was a three horsepower compressor.

If I remember right, but if I just have one pan chiller running, I believe that's only 1700 BTUs. So that's not very much velocity to bring oil back to that compressor, and I imagine that we're probably you know, got oil trapped down inside of there and it causes all kinds of issues so over time. It's pretty much normal on these kyrat systems on these older ones that you're gon na have to change the compressors every five to six years, and that's just life sure there's lots of things you can do. You can put capacity, control, valves, discharge, bypass valves with D, superheating expansion valves all kinds of weird stuff, but customer usually doesn't want to deal with that kind of stuff in a perfect world.

This rack would have an oil separator on it. It would have D superheating expansion valve so when the capacity got really low, it would bypass you know and all fancy stuff, but sometimes you just got to deal with what you have and you just got to deal with changing compressors every once in a while. So it's it's sad because I certainly think we could have gotten a lot more life out of that compressor if it was you'd being used and designed properly. But you know that's just how things work sometimes out in the field about the vacuum.

You know you. I showed two examples where, on the pizza station I vacuum down through my gauges. You know I'm not perfect and then on the second one I went ahead and used my the the big vacuum hoses, but I had leaks in the system. So you couldn't achieve a perfect vacuum.

This is often times what we run into in refrigeration. I still do everything that I can to try to make sure that I'm following all the proper refrigeration practices, but sometimes you can okay, you know like sometimes you can't braise with nitrogen, it's just life. I try to do it as much as possible, but hopefully you guys get. You know real-life view of what's going on inside these for the new guys that are watching this, you know and and you guys that are experienced and already in the trade.

Let me know in the comments what you guys think I mean. Am i a total hacker? Is this what you guys have to deal with too? Sometimes you know it is what it is right all right. I really appreciate you guys taking the time to watch these videos. Remember I do live streams Monday evenings 5:00 p.m.

Pacific time work permitting. So that means, if I'm not too busy at work, I plan on going live. Okay, I always discuss these videos any questions. I try to like address them during the live streams, to try to save sanity of myself, because I get so many comments and emails and Facebook posts that it in the beginning.

I found myself just staring at my phone all day long, so I've kind of prioritized my life and I try to address most of the comments on the live streams. Okay, so I'd really appreciate your guys's feedback. Send me emails. Anything ask me questions, hopefully I'll see you guys in the live stream other than that we'll catch you guys on the next one.

Okay, you.