I'm brian with the hvac school podcast in hvac, our school comm, and I'm here with Kieran and Jason, and we're going to be doing a full compressor, replacement or gon na be going through it step by step into the entire process and making sure that we get It right the first time here we go, let's go through the different steps, all in all at once of the compressor installation - and this is like most things - you create a process and you keep editing it keep working on it. I've worked on this process over a number of years and there's probably still some areas that I can add in, but nothing is perfect and it's not gon na be perfect for every single application. The first thing is before you head to a call: what type of failure was diagnosed you know. So was it a open, winding open thermal overload short? Did you have in terminal, venting or blue the terminal? Was it locked because all of those things are gon na? Tell you what potential things you could run into with the system once you get, it started things you want to check for, but you should always perform an acid test.

We do it every time, but definitely if you have a short or terminal venting, you want to perform an acid test. There's a lot of different acid tests on the market. We do tend to use some of the more inexpensive ones. If you want to be really thorough, there's a couple really good ones: refrigeration technologies make some some really good acid test kits now make sure you have the appropriate refrigerant make sure you have enough of it.

Generally speaking, when you have a compressor failure, I prefer to use virgin refrigerant just because in the process of the failure, there's some you know. Obviously, if you have any acid any fouling of the oil, you don't want that to end up in the new system. So I tend to use virgin, but there's certainly a case to be made for reusing. You have a new capacitor that matches the new system.

Do you have a new suction and liquid line dryer by Flo dryer for heat pumps? We only put the suction dryer in when we have a burnout protocol. When we, when we see that there is acid, you have the test kits dryers and acid inhibitors for burn out applications, acid inhibitors, we're gon na talk about here in a second. Do you have fittings in copper pipe to properly install the new compressor a lot of guys? You know they fail to keep enough copper tubing on there and that's a big no-no. You got ta, keep properly sealed pieces of copper tubing on your fan.

You know, especially, you know: 3/8 up to 7 eighths are the most common see of 3/8 half-inch, 5/8, 3/4 and then 7/8 are all sizes tubing mentioned because you're gon na have you know, discharged science. Section line can vary depending on the tonnage of the compressor, and you need to have all the fittings. I also prefer to swedge, where possible, on the suction side, especially I try not to switch on the discharge side because it can cause a fail point depending on the type of switch you use. Do you have a new plug or leave kit for the new compressor is the compressor.

Warranty is the job billing or Co D, that's kind of on the business side, but you want to make sure that you're dealing with that what type of failure was diagnosed? Do we know grinding noise, making a lot of grinding noise and it was - and it was an internal bypass, some reasons that can happen in a scroll. You can have a scroll that's running backwards. They can cause that if it's, if it's short cycled that can cause that a cetacean have already been performed, what has already been performed to have it, it hasn't okay. So, let's, let's do that real, quick, just make sure you know that says I don't think we will.

We have enough of the appropriate refrigerant to complete the job answer is yes, do you have a new competitor that matches the new compressor answer is? Yes, do you have a new suction and liquid line dryer for the system in this case? If it's not acid, we're not going to do the suction dryer we're just going to do the liquid dryer. This is a heat pump can see that by the reversing valve and so in a heat pump. The only way to install a suction dryer for any significant amount of time without locking it into cool mode, is to install it in a common suction. So if we were gon na, you know put it here, but then that requires full recovery again to replace it.

So you don't want to leave a suction dryer in place. So if we were going to place it out here and a heat pump, we would need to make sure that we lock it into cooling mode and the way to do that and this unit would be to bug orange to red, so just tie them together, so That way it would stay locked in cooling mode, but if we don't have acid, then we're not going to do that. One thing that I noticed right away when I when I look at this, is this right: here: we've got oil quite a bit of oil, so I'm going to look into that too. We always weigh the refrigerant out and that's on my list so we'll get to that in a second common mistake.

The techs make is they see this and they think? Oh, that's the liquid line dryer. So I'm gon na replace that that is incorrect. That is not the liquid on a dryer. That is a discharge muffler, if you replace it with a liquid line.

Dryer you risk causing trouble, so we're not going to replace that our liquid line. Dryer is here, and we are going to cut that out and we are going to go ahead and reinstall a liquid line dryer on the inside, as opposed to out here where it runs the risk of getting rusty overtime just even connecting and disconnecting to a system That has a compressor failure is just smell. If you smell that that kind of like biting acid smell, then you know that you're gon na need to do the acid protocol. But as the protocol is one of those things, you need to do it.

If you need to do it, you don't want to do it. If you don't need it, because it is adds a lot of extra steps and a lot of extra expense. Do we have a new plug or lead kit for the compressor? Alright, so there's our plug. Also pay attention to any manufacture information.

This is the Copeland compressor, so it comes with. Instead of requirements, disconnect lock out the power supply cover the charge verify that power supply has been disconnected, make sure it's fully fully removed, make sure to remove the compressor mounting bolts. Remove the compressor safely and then follow all instructions for proper installation so before moving the new compressor confirm the diagnosis of the previous technician. If it was diagnosed as a burnout check, the wires check the crankcase heater and check the terminals on the compressor saying you know again, you want to make sure that there's nothing else that caused the problem.

If it was a non pumping, diagnosis make sure to check. That's not actually reversing valve or TXV issue, so, especially in the case of non pumping compressor diagnosis, that's a common one where ignitions can improperly diagnose that and say you want to go through and make sure that you agree with that diagnosis before you move forward confirm That the compressor you have is a correct replacement and the feet bullets either mattre can be adapted. I've seen guys you try to just use three or four feet bolts and you want to make sure that your compressor is properly mounted to the base, because otherwise, you're gon na have vibration and eventually you're gon na have an issue with the line cracking or some Sort of leak, so you want to make sure that everything matches up and then it's the correct can compressor from this correct voltage phase all those things and from whether the system has a factory hard start kit. If so, it will need to be replaced.

If you have a factory hard start kit, replace it with a new one, and this is something that, when you're, quoting diagnosing the compressor and you find that it's failed and has a factory parts get you're gon na want to replace it. Because you can't fully test the hard start kit until you get the system running and so you're not gon na know, if possibly that potential relay stayed locked in and caused the compressor failure on the start winding. So it's just safer to replace it with a new factory replacement. If it has an aftermarket start kit, it must be removed.

You know when I say it must be removed, so remove the aftermarket start kit you can put in a new one if it's an application that requires it. If it was in there just to get an old compressor, keep an old compressor running. Then you know that's up to your company policies, whether or not you put aftermarket heartstart kits on new compressors. I don't as a matter of course, unless it's long line set hard, shutoff TXV, you know the system is having issues starting all right.

So the diagnosis was that it was really noisy so and you had started it when you first got here and what did it sound like? Okay, so we've got a mechanical failure inside this compressor something's going on with the scroll itself. There we've got some sort of a mechanical issue there, and so with that being the case, we had a one technician: listen to it. He was measuring some bypass issues. You started.

It heard that extremely loud noise, so we're gon na go ahead and stick with that diagnosis, but let's now check for acid, do we have these caps off all right? This is a really simple acid test kit made by quick products. It says product is not designed to detect mild organic acids produced from the breakdown of pol it's not going to test for acids that occur over time with overheating, we're checking for a bad bad burn. Now, basically, we're going to insert either n for 2 seconds with the vapor flow. So I would, I would do it on the suction line and that way we're more likely to have vapor up and just see what we get two seconds on.

The section line all right, I'm not seeing any any change in the color, so it would. It would have a significant color change if we had any significant acids, so we're okay to go ahead and start doing our thing without doing the fool acid protocol, which means we're still doing liquid liner, obviously, but we're not doing any sort of acid inhibitor scavenger we're Not doing a section line drier for quick recovery, cooling, the Schrader's out is a no one say it's a must, but it's a really good practice and anyway, having them out for you are. Evacuation is good anyway, bubble down that chaplet fitting we got there cuz. That looks a little suspicious.

Are you really pushing the night you so we've got the field piece vacuum pump and you can actually get this and the mr 45, which is the recovery machine, we're about to use here from four sexuals, really good, both really really good devices they're, my favorites. So we're putting on all the trucks. This is the MRI TM r45 and then the I think this is VP 85 an inch on it, but this is an excellent vacuum pump. I really like the the way that the ports are in a 45 degree angle.

It makes it really easy to access. It's got just just a great device, really really simple device. This is the H CFM version. This does a great job, especially if you've got a nice rig with large hoses you're not pulling through manifolds.

The oil fill is just really really big and easy to work with, which is excellent, and then you can take this whole oil reservoir out. It's got a backlight on the oil reservoir. You can see the condition of the oil really well, it's just a really nice. Really nice tool - and he was he - was trying to connect the center hose to the tank itself.

Yeah thanks, not gon na do much in that way. Now, if we wanted to be real fancy, we could use larger hoses. We could do it without using a manifold, but with refrigerant it's not as critical and it'll still come out coming down pretty quick, so we get a fresh tank with 4:10 a tag on it, and so we do that hose and we also do a scale. So we can weigh out what was in it, which will be helpful in diagnosing, if maybe an overcharge, caused the problem.

So next fully recover the refrigerant charge and lay it out, the the weighing it out part is important. Now, obviously, when you're doing a retrofit application, you're not gon na know exactly how long the lines it is, so it's gon na be kind of a guess, but when you weigh it out, you're gon na have a good idea. Is the system significantly overcharged HRV? If you find that it's significantly under charge, then you're gon na want to do a leak detection before you move on. If you find that it's significantly overcharged, then you have an idea that that may have been a contributing factor to the system.

Failure - and there may be other system issues that possibly a metering device issue, TXV issue that could have caused a previous technician to try to overcharge it to get the suction pressure up. So those are things to look for on unwearied the compressor completely in tape wires away from the compressor to prevent damage to them. That's if you're using the old leads, if you're reusing, if you're, maybe putting in a new plug kit, then you can just pull it all out mark the wires as to which terminals that went to for reference again. That's if you're reusing old leads.

If you already reusing old, leads, make sure to carefully inspect them cut, both the lines is near to the old compressor as possible on sweating. The lines is not recommended, as the old oil will likely catch on fire and possibly cause injury or wire damage. I don't like on sweating lines off of a compressor. I know a lot of you guys do it, I'm not telling you to never do it, but if you do it make sure that you're wearing proper PPE safety, glasses gloves and make sure that you're not trapped in a place where you're kind of standing on your Head and then you're gon na get stuck in there.

You're gon na have some phosgene gas likely, even when you fully recover properly. If you are gon na unswept, then you should definitely purge very well with nitrogen. So purge a lot of nitrogen through that compressor. To hopefully displace a lot of that refrigerant and get it out of there and then me, it's probably even a good idea to just flow a little bit of nitrogen as well, while you're doing that.

The 2 to 5 s cfh, remove the foot bolts and the case of possible burnout use an acid test kit to confirm the Burnet protocol should be followed. So that's that's before you remove it, and this is kind of that order. But again, some acid test kits require that you actually sample the oil out of the compressor. So that's where this order would be correct.

It actually takes them well out, looking press or sampling the test kit and just see probably good practice, that's actually something! You know. We didn't we're not currently doing the full oil test, the more expensive tests, but if you had a short or a blown terminal, this would be the best way to do it actually test the oil that you can use your senses. If you should ever smell a high level of acid, you see that the oil is black and nasty. Then you definitely want to follow the burnout protocol.

Remove the old compressor carefully may use a compressor. Lift tool to assist. Do not strain your back while doing this. If it's too heavy call for backup steel, dual compressor close by bracing, the section of discharge line to ensure the old oil doesn't spill out, that's required by almost all manufacturers, everything as rotor locks on it.

Then what you do is you tape the plugs that came on the new compressor into the old one tape them in place all right, so we are ready to rock and roll static pressure or on the tank. We are zeroed out on the scale. Let's do this thing battery charge of five point: eight three pounds: where is it there? It is five point. Eight three pounds today, all right cool.

So now we're gon na compare what we get out of this thing to what the factory charges and that's gon na tell us something. We have our air handler, and this is sitting right about up there. It's really not that far so I mean. Maybe we could expect to have a little more than the factory charge, but it shouldn't be significant, while you're recovering, which this field piece makes pretty short work of it.

But while you're recovering it's a good time to go ahead and start cleaning out the drain that I also it's a good time to clean out the base pan before you start working with this one's already spotless, we did a maintenance how long ago on it. So we're we're good to go on that guy thinking here, we've got the shot back on right now, that's later on in the process. It's actually the last thing clean the drain line and drain pan, but it's a good thing to do while you're waiting. If your recovery takes so just hop on and get that done, and I'm always looking for signs of oil everywhere on the evaporator anywhere, I look, I'm always looking for signs of oil and rub out so that way we can address that while we're in the process Of doing everything else a lot of times, you can find the cause of problems just by being really thorough with everything that you check now, you all know, I'm big fan a big fan of am rad capacitors, we're doing this compressors replacement and I always replace the Capacitor when we replace the compressor just to be on the total, safe side, this is a capacitor, it's not too old.

It's already been replaced once in 2017, so it's only you know a year and a half old. Something like that, but I wanted to just check it. One thing I want to show you is: the terminals have no rust, even though there's a few little rust spots on top. The terminals have no rust because these are plated brass, and so they don't rust at all, and I just want to check the microfarad rating of this just to see how it's how it's doing so.

This is common here to the compressor side. 45. That's still right at its rating and then the fan side is over five, so again, right at its rating, really good, really good quality capacitors I like them, but I'm gon na, replace it anyway right. So we are backing the drain and what we do is we run gallons of water through it, with the shop back on a little bit of cleaner, we're going to use the refrigeration technologies pan and drain treatment, as well in the pan, just to make sure that Those enzymes will help break it down over time, but I Kieran's going to start cleaning that drain Karen's got put a little rig here.

Oh no, that's that's! That's your rig! That's Jason's! Right he's! Pretty sweet! Yes! Oh! I never underestimate the visual inspection. This unit is a 2014 for only four years old and you can see there's a lot of this is galvanic corrosion, isn't necessarily a big deal. Memphis it looks, awful pepper file is not terrible, but it's in need of a little wipe down. You see it's got a piston which, whenever I see a unit, that's newer like this.

That has a piston. I want to look at what the factory piston is because I want to see if that matches up with the condenser, because if it doesn't the odds that the installing contractor actually put the right sized piston in or pretty much zero. So it's something to look for and when we get the recharge out, it's an easy thing for us to address while we're here if it is, if it doesn't match up so we're gon na check outside and make sure that it's also a 67 don't use this Toothbrush to brush your teeth, trust me we're gon na use a little Viper aerosol oil cleaner and doesn't it's not required to rinse it? I'm gon na rinse, it cuz it's evaporator coil, but it's non alkaline non acidic. So it's not going to cause any corrosion.

It's not gon na cause any fumes. So it's perfect for this application. We have light soil, nothing serious, but we want to do this before we clean out the drain pan, because if anything comes off that coil, we want it to go down and out so actually having the vacuum running. While we're doing this is section perfect, so go ahead, that's all you! So now I just got ta.

Let it dwell for five minutes or so, and then we can just rinse it off right into the pan, careful there's a lot of times those things leak. This is an ideal sensor. Example. We got a drain pan right underneath this thing, so normally you need a drop cloth or something of that nature that divers gon na rinse from the top down and evolve it up clean up, see I kind of liked down with a rag in there just just For up to down motion to get any of the surface soil off without impacting it in and it looks quite a bit better, we just rinse both sides and we're ready to finish the drain cleaning and on our merry way.

I, like these tool box, looking shop, backs from Ridgid because they fit really nicely in the van, so we're about a pound and a half shy and what the backery said 5.8 pounds, and we only took out four pounds: four ounces. So we do need to do some good League Jack once we get to that stage, all right, so now we're in self purged shop backs noisy all right. We are now in the cut boat line stage, so we pull Eva recovered. We laid it out.

We were a little short didn't cut. Both line move the foot bolts. It's already did the acid test kit, because all the removal work if space is doing the old. The old prep before cutting on this.

It's gon na be a little tricky to cut that discharge line, but I still always prefer cutting it out to unswerving it. Since you don't cut your face on fire, you only catch your face on fire, once Jason, oh yeah, and before you decide that it's not fun all right now we are in the all cut out ready for removal of the bolts. It's like the Running of the Bulls, only there's, no bowls that it's just removing bolts, strong people annoy me I was just I was. I was just here like cutting this dryer out and I look up and this thing's all noisy.

I look up. I'm like hey, Jason, you ready to pull the compressor out and he's like what did you say yeah, it's already out there. It is here he pulled it out, Jason's doing a real, pretty job, getting all the channels cleaned out of underneath the compressor. So that way doesn't hold water and went ahead and stuck some masking tape over all the cut lines.

Just so that, like this little parent life, just won't want anything to go on. I'm gon na actually recheck the teflon seal on this. You cut this dryer out and put it on the inside, because that's what I do, I'm a nerd can't help myself. Oh another nice thing about cutting off is that now we can pinch these and braise them shut.

A lot easier is that's part of the requirements for return, and this is a warranty compressor. So that's important, so we are using the viper pan and drain treatment in place of pan tabs. It's not going to get stuck and clog up the drain. It uses enzymes to help break down junk food that could grow in the drain.

So all we're gon na do is just spray down the drain, pan edge there and then just the first row or so of tubing. That's basically it it's a nice little coating and the drain pan. You can kind of see the shininess in the edge and then the first row of tubing and that helps prevent the gross stuff from from growing and it smells great and it's safe and it's got a big snake on the front. Aggressive Karen likes it, and once again I walk upstairs to film something real, quick and I come down and the compressors installed.

I don't know these these Illinois, these Illinois boys they're just they're too fast. We are now in the tighten down the bolts portion of the process, which seems like sort of obvious, but a lot of technicians. I've seen over the years, don't take that very seriously and it can lead to vibration, which can then lead to additional issues. Remove any old liquid in our section line, dryers that exist in previous work, some systems may have factory dryers that should also be removed, and that includes in case they can in case the compressor that includes factory dryers, like with Linux, it's by the heat mode, TXV And in the outside unit, in the case of a heat pump, you got ta remove those so generally, if the factory has them it's sort of nasty hard to get to places I'll, usually cut them out straight pipe them and then put the dryer.

Usually I like to put them inside, I think of a / to quell, although putting them at the condenser, and the liquid line is also perfectly good in many cases. I just prefer to put it inside for many reasons, including so that it doesn't rust. Do not confuse the discharge muffler with the liquid line, filter dryer, that's important. The discharge muffler needs to be left in place.

Don't confuse that with the dryer before cutting out any components. Pleat pre clean the area you'll be cutting in wipe clean, so you're, actually using the same Emery cloth, a scotch brite pad or something, and you pre clean that copper before you cut it, make cuts with proper tubing cutter and D burner, making sure not to drop Any shavings into the system, so when you're deburring don't get any shavings in the system again, deburring is an important practice, but if you're gon na risk getting shavings in the system that I'd rather, you didn't deburr. If you have a choice between getting shavings in the system and deburring, I would say, don't get shavings in the system. It's an area that that I'll be honest, I often forget to do, but it is, it is something that you should be doing.

Use caps plugs are masking tape to block the open lines while working to reduce contain. I use blue masking tape. Blue masking tape is not gon na keep all the air from getting in the system, but it is just gon na reduce the rate. It's also going to prevent, maybe any moisture from dripping off or when you're working sweat dripping off into the lines, because you don't want that.

I'm flowing low levels of nitrogen, while the system in note is open, is a great practice. Whenever practical, I won't go into that when you're flowing nitrogen, it's tough, when you do a compressor because it wants to flow in both directions, especially when you have it open for the line dryer. So it's something you just got to kind of think through how you're gon na flow it, but it is good to have nitrogen flowing the entire time. You have the system open, because that helps prevent air from getting in the system.

You definitely need to have it flowing when you're brazing install a new liquid line or by flow dryer in the liquid line, either outside of the condensing unit or next to the air handler. Do not install it in the discharge line near the compressor. Many systems have a discharge muffler near the compressor that looks like a dryer, but it is not make sure that the arrow on suction licking line dryers is pointed in the direction of flows to the correct direction. Reinstall the suction accumulator.

If there is one and also install the new sectional and dryer in case of high acid, put the new compressor in place being careful not to strain your back pipe in the new compressor use heat shield near the compressor to ensure you do not overheat it. That's you don't want to keep conducting into the compressor from your line. So in the video that I did, I used the wet rag products by refrigeration technologies to help protect the compressor and my dryers to keep them burning the paint. So it doesn't rust, but then also using heat shield, stripped around things to make sure that you're not gon na burn in many wires melt.

Coils, do any of that tighten down the foot, bolts flow, nitrogen with three to five s: CF H, while braising with a flow gage. This means flowing through the system not braising under pressure, so you're not actually pressurizing. It has to be open. Each should have your Schrader's out at this point anyway, install the new compressor capacitor, as well as new plugin leak.

It as needed make sure you have the correct wires of the terminals, replace the contactor if it shows any signs of point pitting and ensure it and the crankcase heater is wired correctly because again, you're wanting to not only replace the compressor you're going to eliminate any Of the potential causes of failure so now we're removing the old liquid dryer, I'm actually working on that. It's got no old suction dryer. If it did, we definitely need to remove it. We're gon na install a new liquid line, dryer upstairs at the air handler reinstall.

The suction accumulator, if there is one burnout, so we didn't have to do burnout protocol put in the new compressor Jason, did that without me. Even looking got a pipe in the new compressor, we're going to use a heat shield, wet rag from refrigeration technologies to keep from overheating, the paint tighten down the foot bolts and then we're gon na start, our flowing of nitrogen. Before we start raising there, we go so we're gon na put a new o-ring in this thing, because this chat lift fitting here, because I suspect it even though I wasn't getting bubbles, but it wasn't just a static pressure. I suspected that this thing might have been burned up and sure enough it was they left it in while they braised, which is not what you should do and it is, it is totes melted, as the kids say nowadays in their Street lingo.

This thing is all melted and worn, so I think I greatly suspect that that was the cause of our leak, because if we had oil there, so I cut the whole assembly out. I'm just gon na cut this back right at the dryer here and remake back to here, where I got my blue masking tape, nothing like the smell of a little phosgene in the morning right. So I'm using some dialogue here. It's especially good on these chat.

Lip fittings here on this on the seal surfaces and on the threads just really helps to make sure that it gets on there nice and snug, and prevents galling and find that it upstairs leaks this the older one, the seal was just all messed up so good Stuff glue now for those of you out there who are thinking, I would put the dryer on the outside on this house. I don't fall to you. I would probably put the dryer on the outside too for most of my career. It's just that.

I've been preaching and touting the values of putting it on the inside for so much recently that I would be quite a hypocrite if, given the first difficult situation, I left it on the outside and Karen and Karen's like this guy. They just talk all day long. First thing I noticed, got a smoke alarm there, so this is an unoccupied house. If it wasn't occupied house, I probably disconnect it and I probably worn more than the customer, but since it's unoccupied, the other thing I would do is push that float switch down before we forget and leave it in that upwards position, where it's not going to work Properly move it down a little bit right, there yeah, perfect, beautiful, beautiful.

Alright! Let's do this thing, I'm going to shut this off! I'm gon na shut this off Karen wants me shut this off see what got here looks like cannon. Did a pretty good job didn't want to make him nervous while he was in the process, but he didn't bring the paint, so I think we're I think, we're good to go. You're gon na take it gon na use it yeah perfection, we're gon na use the mirror on it just make sure, but I think we're good Bible yeah. I don't think we're good pressure test it in bubble tested.

You can see, we got that fall just floating. Five SCFM: that's all you want. Actually, if you can get less than five minutes now, that's good that fluent in nitrogen makes all the difference in the world. As far as the oxides build up, a lot of people are like: oh, you cooked it because they see the oxides on the outside.

But if you're flowing nitrogen you ain't, building up no oxides on the inside and it's goods done, you can braise make a good joint, not have to worry all right. So we've got designed test pressures here of 250 to 450. It's a 410 a system, so we're gon na. Do the we're gon na pressurize it up to 300 psi and then also bubble test order, joints and we'll just make sure we don't have any of the leaks pressurize the system of nitrogen by allowing the nitrogen to enter the liquid discharge port pressurize to an exact Number usually 200 to 500 psi depending on system type and refrigerant, and make note of what it is set to your system will give you a test pressure bubble test.

All the new joints and observe conceal there is for the mirror if the system is held, pressure for at least 20 minutes proceed on if the pressure drops first bubble test your gauges and ports and then proceed to do a deeper leak check. This pressure test is a great time to begin working on paperwork on cleaning up now. I will add that the best way to do this is to have your Schrader's out and your core remover tools in and your pressurizing through those because you're going to need them out anyway, later on. When you do vacuum pump.

And so then, if you valve off right at your core tools to hold pressure and you're measuring on the side of one of your core tools, then it helps to eliminate some of the other things I'll in practice. I often will just use the gauges anyway, like the testo 550's have a nice where you can actually look at trends of the dropping pressure you will, if you're, holding standing pressure test for a long time and the temperature changes, the pressure will change slightly with temperature. I have a calculator on each VCR school and the resources tab that you can use to find how much that may change. But in general you want to see your pressure hold, pretty pretty steady check the oil in your vacuum pump for level and clarity.

So make sure it's nice, clear and clean oil and your vacuum pump evacuate the system to below 500 microns sound. This is not a description of exactly how to evacuate. We've talked a lot about this used. Large hoses.

Don't use your gauges using micron gauge on your core tools, there's a lot of different articles! We've done about that. So this doesn't cover that, but you want to pull it down to below 500 microns at the system, not at your pump for 10 to 15 minutes. In performing isolation and vacuum decay test for 10 to 15 minutes ensuring it doesn't rise above a thousand microns in that span of time lower is even better. So this is a very generic process here.

You know look at the measure quick app by the blue, vac app and they're gon na give you much more specific guidelines. This is kind of a general guideline for air conditioning equipment if evacuation stall and arrange the boiling pressure from more than 10 minutes or rises up to the water boiling pressure during the decay, testing break the vacuum in the nitrogen and reevaluate so you're, trying to discern, If it's rising too quickly, if it's decaying too quickly, is this caused by a leak? Is this caused by moisture in the system? When you change a compressor, you have a lot of volume, there's a lot of oil that you're pulling on potentially a accumulator, and so it can take time and it can take a little bit for any entrain moisture to boil off. So it can be. Compressors are a little bit more difficult than other types of evacuations, see iCube tools, blue backup and literature for more info on this, because jim has a lot of great Jim Bergman has a lot of great info on that.

But once you get that all done and you've proven that you're you're, clean and tight and dry and no issues, then liquid charge the system by weighing in a factory charge into the liquid line, never add liquid directly to the new compressor into the suction or discharge Ports now discharge port is generally safe because you have a check valve there. That's gon na prevent it from going back in in most cases, but again I still prefer to add it into the liquid line. That way, you don't have a bunch of refrigerant being added. In right on that compressor, if the compressor has a crankcase heater power on the high voltage with the system off, so that the compressor can be warmed up to reduce liquid slugging on startup wait for charge to equalize, then you turn on the system.

Wait for charged equalizing compressor warm then run your system with an amp clamp on the compressor common lead, make sure the compressors drawing normal, amperage and pressures are normal. That's the compressor, make strange noises or draws high ampere just shut it off immediately and diagnose that's important to turn it on with you. There don't turn out the stat and just kind of meander outside you want to be there when that compressor comes on once the charge is stabilized that it's a factory superheat in sub cooling, specs check the superheat sub cool head section: pressure split: you know all the Stuff you're supposed to check in addition to that, when you're placing compressor, I want you monitoring your discharge line temperature and ensuring that it doesn't go too high. In most cases, you're gon na see you know, 160 150 to 180 is gon na be pretty common, but you want to make sure it's not going over 220 degrees because that's gon na cause oil breakdown inside the compressor.

That's a sign of a problem check the system in both heat and cool modes. According to the type of system, checking against manufacturer recommendations, inspects clean the drain line and drain pan observe condensate drainage, as well as check the air filter of a protocol, condenser coil and any other maintenance items before leaving just go through the whole thing. To make sure. There's nothing else going on and then, if the compressor is under warranty or not, you need to make sure to file the claim tag, presser properly and alert the customer and write the invoice all that when you're done.

That is a still as long as that process is that's still not completely comprehensive and there's still some variation there, depending on the particular application, but hopefully that was helpful once he gets done raising and we're gon na pressurize we're actually gon na pressurize up to 300 Psi test pressure for 10, a system bubble test everything and 15 minutes or so 14 20 minutes we're gon na pull a good vacuum and do decay test all right. Look at Jason's connect checks, you're a really nice job actually proud of it. It's really good. All right, so the flow regulator is off because we're done flowing nitrogen now we're gon na good and pressurize her up to credit, get it as close to 300 psi, as we can.

Jason has he's connecting up his 550 app, that's laughs, all right. There we go zero and zero, and it's pretty like inside within 2/10, and it's showing it on the app. So now we can log that trend you can watch and see what it does over time. Tell us whether or not we have any leakage whatsoever always got a mark down.

What the cause is so will not start annoys e when running noisy ones, darting up put it in the old box. That way, we got the old compressor data, as well as the new compressor data, and you stick that sticker right on the compressor. These all up good. We wipe off the camera they're, not sorry, I can see all right, so I always get requests always get requests about what our favorite rig is.

So here's what we've got got the field piece. Eight CFM vacuum pump available. True tech tools. Without I could get schooled for a great discount, we've got two great big old hoses, which will be better once I get the new active tools, but our good friend Jim Bergman, but it's a pretty it's a pretty macdaddy kit here are two big hoses back tied Into creates ports right on the pump, and now all we got to do is just connect our micron gauge just on the side port and we're ready to roll all right.

So we are connected with the blue vac app and we've got fifteen seconds elapsed. It's already started, but that's all right. We don't mind being a little behind the eight ball, alright ready to go ready to rock in the food. For the boy been good there, you go now we're pulling on the compressor line set of a vertical the whole thing.

It's a good good amount of volume they were pulling on here. We'll see see how long Texas you should the famine laughs, there's any other string so we're in for two minutes in and we're already down to 2,000 migraines on a full system volume. That's pretty crazy! So our saturation for water is already down at 16 degrees, Fahrenheit, we're gon na credit. I think we should either we can get this thing, that is 300 microns mm-hmm all right.

So now, while it's pulling vacuum, you can start cleaning up a little bit and wire up the compressor. That's in the list we put in our gon na put in an AM rad turbo 200, which again that's a little bit on the overkill side. The capacitor and it's fairly new, but just part of our standard practice, is putting a new capacitor in so we're just gon na follow that here finish up a really good, solid, install one thing that I always talk about is: whenever you clean a condenser coil or Do a compressor or anything I want you pulling the fan shroud off and putting it under your ass setting it to the side where it's not going to get damaged. Even my own guys will ignore me on this sometimes and try to tip the fan shroud up.

While they work, I just don't want to see it slip and then the fan blades or scratch the paint or something so I just prefer to do it. This way, get it out of the way we evacuated the system below 500 microns we're working on that right. Now and then we're gon na do the decay test and then we're gon na factory charge into the liquid line. We're gon na weigh it in we're gon na weigh in a factory charge, because our line length is about 35 feet, 30 35 feet.

So that's where we're gon na start and this system does not have a crankcase heater and then we're gon na start it up and do all of our run tests. All right Karen is gon na start rewiring, I'm gon na suggest. Is you know you never want to have any rub outs? Do you really want to think about where you're gon na route it in such a way that you're not going to have any rub outs? So you try to put them all together. Yeah, I mean it's a good idea, because these are notorious for rubbing out.

You want to think about the best way to do this so, and you definitely want to keep it away from the discharge line. So what I would probably suggest doing is, if you take this, put a piece of armor flex here and then you can zip tie to that. It's just a small piece. We put a slit in the bottom zip-tied of that, and then that gives you a point that then you can kind of anchor everything to out in this area, because now this wire becomes more rigid.

If you know what I mean Kieran's first experience with the turbo 200m rad, you am rad ummm, a rad guy. So what are we doing here? We are making 45 M ft the compressor just connecting up 20 and 25, pretty simple stuff man. He didn't even need to like a wiring diagram, for that did you and then the five he's a cake? That's it right, that's it! That's it beautiful, so I usually will test the microfarad rating of it now, just to be 100 % sure that were in range. So you can grab my test.

Oh 770, 3 there, product placement yeah just put the alligator clip to the center in common on this meter. It's the same as the home scale. There you go and now just tests, one of your two compressor terminals, 46. 0.23.

So we're good and then check your 5 Mike repaired. Now, there's a low one and a high one on this, so you have one that's more like four and one. The other is more like six, so we'll do it to the higher of the two. That's it that one was a seven Wow Tobias.

I mean I try that try that one again give it a second. It is five points. 5.7 yeah. I will do that now.

First TK test didn't work, but they have the caps off the valves off the top. I think those were not mine. I'm leaking a little bit log renowned, I'm very good, now, most of 300 microns 300, here, 92 microns. Now.

Would you look at this little fella? It's looking pretty good! What's that yeah, we cool it down in 20 minutes! Okay, it's been a little bit of a struggle. Cheeky fella got done with our decay test and now we've added in five pounds: nine ounces. Out of this tank, we had a few ounces in another tank, so we've added that into the liquid line. So that way, we don't throw it straight into the compressor.

Now we're ready to start her up and test her out. I've got a discharge line. Temperature sensor in there attest to a 115, and so we're gon na also monitor our discharge line temperature inside at the compressor itself. Start it up.

Did you get end up getting a new clamp? I did I'm gon na check this bad boy by super heat method. Primarily 17 x3, professor amps are 9.8. I'm gon na check that against a nameplate and as your fan is 1.2, nine point eight and one point one. If it's rated at 16, okay, we'll check our incoming voltage to under load 234 volts, that's actually kind of she kind of low for down here that says she's surprisingly low and range our discharge line.

Temperature is 160 degrees. So that's good. Under our number 220 degree area, and now upstairs Jason is taking a wet, bulb temperature using a 6:05 eyes forget the returned and we've also got a dry ball probe in the supply to measure our delta T. You know the 550 has a oh yeah you're using smart phones.

Oh these smart probe. Zep has a target superheat built right into it, as you know that no yeah click the top left turkey. Okay, that's all you're gon na do is once you use the smart probe. You can connect all those where's that so it's so really you would use it.

You would use it if you had some at the smart bro expected, but if you go down to the bottom left and hit that gear go to options, I think other view/complete, your motion to figure measurement yeah, that's where you enter your outer dry bulb and your Return air level to get change it to show you go there in that. First right now, we're running at 17 degrees, superheat and that's only going to drop. So that probably means we need to recover just a little bit. What's our what's our delta T yeah, it's 18 degrees delta T is 18 yeah.

We also have a delta T calculator on my site too, but I can tell you that 18 degrees with as high of relative humidity as we have, is actually a little on the high side, which makes sense. We probably have a little bit of low airflow, which is shocking, given the way did that supply to let them looks right that that's what we like to call a joke: mm-hmm, yes, correct, very good high load. I would expect it to be more like 16 right now, but again I got a delta key to calculator and we're head yeah. I mean you actually kind of you know.

People say 20 degree, Delta, T planetary, delta. T is good at normal conditions. You know 75 degrees inside 50 percent, relative humidity, that's where you're gon na be in that zone. Again we run under under the delta T calculator in general anyway, meaning we have higher splits because we run 350 CFM per ton here cuz.

We want more dehumidification itself. Alright, discharge line temperature, stable 160 degrees yeah, so our super heat is a little bit on the low side, which again kind of goes along with being having a little bit of flow airflow. But I would go ahead and take that recovery tank out and just recover a couple ounces. We took out another how many ounces eight ounces we're going below the factory charge in order to hit our target superheat here.

So I'm not going to adjust it too much more because I don't there's no real reason now that does show us that, because we were only about a pound low from the factory charge when we initially checked it, so that tells us we weren't really that low Based on what we're ending up setting it here, so we have about 10 degrees, that's up cool, whatever we can actually read it. Jason has to touch on this thing. There we go yeah eight degrees acceptable. I don't really want to take any more out yeah.

The other half here to our yvette DTD is right at 35 degrees. Good super gets it disappointing. We got the run time. Everything is within 5 degrees on our super heat, condensing temperature / ambient is about right.

Our evaporator design, temperature difference TV is about right. Our split is a little high, but we know that it will be the way that the ductwork is and the way that it's weather we set up our units at 350 CFM per ton versus 400. So I think, we're in good shape pretty good shape that we did a good job of pressurizing. The system we bubble tested the joints check the on the vacuum pump we pulled below 500 microns ended our decay test.

We look, it was charged into the liquid line to factory charge in case you don't have one, we waited for it to equalize, and then we started it up check the amperage make sure there was no abnormal noises and we set the factory superheat sub pool specs. It's a piston system. I also checked to make sure that the piston on the outside unit matches the inside unit is first the rating. So that way we know a necessary piston and it took the discharge line, the temperature at the compressor.

We did that both heat and cool modes, so we do need to do it, quick with a load we have right now. I don't know that we're going to do much other than just shift the reversing valve and make sure that works on between the drain pan and drain line. And then we made sure to do all the tagging for the warranty to make sure we didn't have any voltage drop under load, but that's not the case. It's just the incoming power incoming voltages and a low here.

We got this compressor installed but pretty well. It's a four year old piston system, which I didn't really know that there were that many of them out here. So whenever you're sitting the charge on a piston system, that's a little more finicky gon na set it by superheating takes a little bit of time. But it's working, good and proof positive is that the end of any good job is making sure that it runs and drains before you walk away that final walkthrough, in which I grabbed some pieces of garbage that we almost left that right there.

It's a sign that our evaporator coil is indeed at new point, I'm Brian with the HVAC school podcast and HVAC our school comm, thanks for watching.