Another call on warm beer, another one thing leads to another call that started simple and turned into a thing.
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Just set off a chain reaction of like 10 mouse traps, they were all lined up next to each other, and my bag fell on it. They all started popping in the air that would have been funny to get on film. This video is brought to you by sportlin quality, integrity and tradition. Okay, we got a bank of glycol units.
We got two of them and they're complaining that one of them is not working pretty sure it's this one that says 57, because the condensing unit's not running uh. There is a reset on the pressure control. It does nothing. This guy definitely has a dirty condenser.
It's got a filter on it, but it's a plug. Oh a nice array of mouse traps there and the condenser doesn't look too bad, so we need to get into this control and see if we're actually calling for cooling right now. I am uh checking across the contacts on the pressure control and i have nothing which means the contact is not open. So it's not a high pressure issue or a low pressure issue for that matter.
Um. So we need to see where the power the power comes from, that controller down in there and it's like a rat's nest of wires in there. Okay, like the way they make these units, like you, can't even get that out because of the orientation of everything stupid. Um, here's a plug for the compressor i'll test on that real, quick and there's no power at that plug, which is uh, means that the controller is not sending power.
So you only have this power switch and the temperature controllers the next thing, so we got to get in that box and i kind of pulled it out. Hopefully nothing shorts out and i got to get in there and find the contacts for the compressor see if we can figure out which one's which it looks like four and five is my compressor contact so we'll test across that switch. So it's really difficult to get in there, but i've got 120 volt power coming into this controller and i have nothing leaving the controller, but the controller has a decimal below the snowflake, which means that it's calling for cooling, so we've got a bad controller sucks. I don't have one of those right now, but oh well, we'll go get one.
I went ahead and uh jumped sorry. It scared me nothing. I pulled the power wires and wire nutted them together and we're gon na turn it on right now and we fired up. So we're running now, um.
What i'm going to do is go get a new control, so it was hard for me to film it, but what i did was i verified. We had 120 volts coming into the control and then i checked across the contact. The contact was open, but the control indicated on the front of it that it was calling for cooling via the little snowflake thing, so that control is bad. Um there's other issues, though too man, this capillary tube's, about to rub out it's a pain in the butt.
I'm gon na have to talk to him about changing that pressure control, it's literally about to run out of refrigerant, because the cap tube's almost worn through which sucks is that many mousetraps really necessary. That's ridiculous! All right! Um! This thing's been running. I got the new control it's at 40 degrees. What i'm going to do is i'm going to clean this area out really quick before customers get in the building, i'm just going to blow it all out blow the condensers out, because mostly it's just dust and then that way, i can work up here. A little bit better start by clearing this thing, you're not going to be happy with me, because there's dust everywhere, i'm going to get yelled at, but it's got to be done. I pulled this side cover off to access the sensor for the glycol um. This thing is still running since i got back so it's at 38 degrees right now, but that's because i haven't jumped out so i'm going to start doing things. While i continue to let it run because they're about to open - and we want them to be able to sell as much beer as possible, so i'm going to start renting the sensor and then we'll figure everything out after i get that ram.
Because again, the temperature doesn't matter right now, because i have a bypass so um, but i got everything kind of cleaned up, blowing it out pretty good, so still some stuff here and there it's kind of tight up. Here too, i don't have a lot of room. So you got a camera set up there too, but it's like i'm. I've got one foot on the ladder like leaning over here, so it's kind of a tricky situation.
Just got a universal 120 volt dixel, it's an xr60! You can do a lot of things with these. This one comes with two sensors, but we're only going to use one. You know after looking at this pixel sensor. This is not.
I don't know if it's quite rated to be immersed in water. I might try to reuse their sensor if it'll work - i don't know if it's the same type. Their sensor is pretty uh encapsulated, pretty good meant to be submerged, so i'm going to try to see if i can reuse that it's a really tight in here. I was looking at the contact rating on this controller just to be safe and it's rated for 20 amps.
If you use this contact right here, we're going to use load one and that's rated for 20 amps. So i brought an auxiliary relay just in case, but it's also rated for 20 amps. So i don't see the difference here. Um, so we're just going to go ahead and use this, and i'm going to try to hook their sensor up to it and see if it reads correctly but yeah, it's pretty tight in here.
I turned off power to the unit for now and we're just going to get it wired in. So it's powered up, but it's not quite reading the accurate temperature. Yet so i'm going to give it a minute and make sure the pumps were off, so it could be that it's going to take a minute or we might just have to change it hope to see we're going to give it a few minutes. I don't have the compressor running as of yet i want to see the temp drop, i'm in the process of changing the probe, because it wasn't reading accurately and in the process my hands are covered in this glycol and starting to get sticky. These uh viper wipes are bitching for cleaning that stuff off they'll help to get all that stuff off and then the way i can actually work better. So at this point we're gon na, let it run for a bit and i'm gon na get ready to change that dual pressure, control and uh. When i get over there i'll show you guys why it's about to fail so and then, as far as this probe goes, i've got it to where it's set perfectly in that stream. Try to there's a little clip, i'm trying to get clipped in.
So i just went through the programming parameters and deleted the defrosts, because this can be a control came factory set with defrost in it. I turn that off because we don't need any defrost and our set point is 27 with a four degree. That's a little too high we're gon na we're gon na change the differential to three degrees, but yeah, so we'll be set for 27., so we're coming down and i'm going to move my tools around and then we'll get over here and work on that pressure. Control.
Super tight in here, but what i'm looking at is. Oh look at this. Look at that spot right there you can see where it hasn't rubbed out yet, but if i bend it hard enough, it'll rub out and that's the high pressure side. So it's about to rub out we're going to go ahead and get that guy replaced.
Luckily this has a receiver, so i'm going to be able to do a pump down on it. Luckily, on the high side, i didn't think i was going to be able to take it off, but i can because this fitting right here is just an extension and it should have a schrader depressor in this side right here. So i should be able to twist this off with pressure still in the high side. That's the hope.
Yep it worked out so that had the schrader depressor in it, so i was able to just twist it off and then the low side, i'm just going to pump it down at the receiver and do a hot swap, but look at they had covered that thing. In leak, lock, we'll make sure we use uh, nylon and i'll scrape off all that old leak lock. I just cut myself with the leak lock. That's funny literally just sliced my hand trying to pull the leak lock off.
That won't happen with nylon best refrigeration bandage. You can find i'm sure the glue. That's in the electrical tape is bad for me and stuff, but hey when you're working and you don't have time to go, get a band-aid that works. Perfect things started leaking all over the place.
So you know this thing takes a couple times to reset it finally reset, but i think we might have a bad compressor, so i've got the pressure control jumped out, let's see if we pull down and if we can pull into a vacuum. I've got it pumped down, so the valves in the compressor should not be bleeding by yeah we're pumped down all the way. So i'm going to shut the compressor off here in a minute and if it rises really fast, that's going to indicate a bad suction read in the compressor we're gon na. Let it run for another minute. It's a good sign that it's pulling down! Yeah, that's low enough, so i'm gon na power it down and that really shouldn't rise a lot, maybe a little bit but okay compressors off man. We got a compressor, that's going bad! It shouldn't be rising that fast um, because it should be stopped coming out of the receiver right here. There's no, there should be no refrigerant in here, and this, the the compressor basically between the discharge rate and the suction reed, should not be allowing gas to bypass through there's nothing else in this system that would allow gas to bypass through that's not good. They got problems here which makes me wonder if i i don't know if this unit's worth all these repairs, i might have to make a phone call.
Well, one thing leads to another, so yeah, my suction pressure should not rise up to 92 psi um yeah shouldn't. There's a problem there, so i already talked to the facilities department. They told me just to go ahead and pick up a compressor and change. It so looks like we're doing a lot more boy, all right! Well, we're gon na get it up and running just to be safe.
I really crank down on that valve to make sure that it's not leaking by um and the compressor i mean it's everything's screaming. The thing just keeps going off on internal overload when it tries to restart and about the fourth restart it'll, usually start up so there it goes. Try it again. We went off on overload we're gon na give it one more shot.
I'm gon na let it pump down again just to be safe. Like i said, i already called the facilities department. They didn't even ask me for pricing. They said just do it um, so i'll get my recovery machine.
I have someone actually bringing the compressor to me right now. I'll get my recovery machine, we'll pull the charge real, quick and uh hopefully have this out by the time the person gets here with the there. It goes it just started so hopefully we'll have it out by the time the compressor gets here so we're watching it right now we're gon na pull into a vacuum. Yeah, that's good enough! I'm not going to waste any more time with the vacuum.
So we're going to shut it off and it should not rise all right. I just shut it off. So 1 2 psi no big deal, but when it rises almost all the way up to equalizing, that's a problem. So, let's give it a minute and see if it continues it's usually, you can feel it in the compressor too, but it's hard because this thing's pumps are running.
So it's hard to tell and they're just lose connection there. We go yeah we're still rising. Okay yeah! I'm confirmed so i'm gon na get this recovered man. It is super tight up here too.
Gage is on refrigerant's, not 410, but it's a row then, because all right um leave this one loose open. This up make sure that's closed open this up. Okay, we're good! There we should be once i hit recover mode. It's gon na start leaking out of this, so i'm gon na put it on like that. There we go just purging, make sure we're getting all the air out of the lines. Okay, good. I know this unit's not going to overcome the charge of the tank, so i don't have a scale under it. This tank is a uh pretty much empty.
I think it might have a pound of 404 in it, so the oil all over my hands. Let's hit start shouldn't take long at all, i'm gon na. Let it keep running the field piece pump will shut off by itself when it's in a vacuum. So the really cool feature that i like is this thing shuts off when it's ready and if i hit start again, it'll pull down even lower and automatically shut off again.
So i, like the field piece vacuum pump for that it's a nice little pump all right! We're pretty much done um, i'm just going to let it shut off again and then we'll pull this thing apart, man, it is tight up here we got my ass handed to me just trying to get the bolts out of this compressor. I got three out. I got ta get the one underneath this box now, ah frustrating man there's like no room to get under there. I have to take the whole box off all right.
Well, we're already recovered so and i ended up getting the electrical box off. I don't know if the new one's going to come without a knot. I ended up getting all the bolts out. Condenser fan motor unwired, the plug for the compressor.
Now i'm trying to get this roto lock loose man. Is it tight? I hope i can get the new one on. I really don't want to have to change that roto off, because that doesn't look like it's going to be fun to change. We are out everything's on sweat, um, i'm going to get the compressor out of here.
I got to stand up, move it and then i'll come in and look at that rotolock valve and then do the pressure control and then we'll get to the new compressor. After that, this swivel remember has a straighter, depressor right there and it'll depress that straighter and what it does. Is you know, as long as you don't have a bad compressor, it allows someone to change the pressure control on the high side without having to recover all the gas, so we're going to go ahead and put that back on. So the important thing about this is we're going to use nylon.
Okay, nylog is just a thread lubricant. I uh. Oh, you know what i need to brush that off a little bit. I have a steel brush right here, trying to brush off some of that blue jack leak, walk crap all right.
So what we're going to do is just put a drop of dialogue on there doesn't take much okay and then we're gon na slowly thread this guy. On just a little bit and then what we're gon na do is take the dialogue and put it right here: okay, that's just the mating surface and i'm just spinning it just like that. Okay, that's the mating surface of the flare nut and you want the nylog there to help it stay lubricated, so it doesn't twist and grab and rip it. So i'm gon na go ahead and torque that guy on pressure control's in, i just need to tighten up this cord lock and i put on the bottom to protect the wires i've got it set i've kind of got it routed. The way that i'm going to run it so that way the lines aren't rubbing into each other and i'm going to go ahead and bring the compressor in and start setting that i got this guy tightened on ready to put the pressure control on that bad boy. We're gon na get this rotor lock on down here. So what we're gon na do is just put a drop of dialogue on the threads okay and put a drop of nylon right here and then you're gon na bring the fitting back up and lubricate the mating surface. Okay.
So the whole purpose of the nylon right here, i'll put a little bit more right here - is just so that way the flare nut doesn't grab and twist the copper now we're going to twist that guy on and i'm going to torque it down. Here's another little tip so, even though i put nylon on it that that copper is still going to twist when i torque it down okay, so it's loose right now, so what i'm gon na do. Inevitably, what i don't want to happen is for this to twist. All the way back like that, when i tighten it on so what i'm gon na do is twist it forward a little bit torque it down and, like i said, inevitably it's always going to turn a little bit okay.
So when i torque it down, it's going to straighten this up to where it's going straight up and down. Now it's nice and tight and you can see it didn't twist back into the motor got the roto-lock right here. I like to take a wee bit of nylon. You don't got to take much and just get it on the rotor lock itself, just lubricate it.
You can also uh um, set the rotor lock in like a little baggie or something and i'll put a nylon on it when we get it in there. I just want to make a mess right now, all right um. This is the expansion valve right over here, where i put this heat putty back here: the wet rack stuff um. So i want to protect the expansion valve when i'm bracing in the sight, glass and i went ahead and changed the sight glass too.
Just because i was in here um yeah, so we're ready, i'm going to brace it in real quick, went ahead and tighten this up. Tighten the rotor lock down nice and tight uh. We need to braise this shut. I don't have a fitting for that.
So we'll raise it shut man. I'd like to put a fitting, maybe i'll, go, try to find one everything's brazed in we're good, and i ended up uh putting this guy on. So i'm gon na put a schrader in it and then we're gon na get the vacuum running on this guy. I typically advocate for not using a manifold to evacuate the system, but sometimes you just have to this is a situation where um, i don't got the room, everything's tight.
I can't get my big hoses up here, so i'm just gon na have to evacuate through the manifold and deal with it. So right now i have the gas ballast open until we pull somewhat of a vacuum and then we'll switch over and shut it and do everything i got ta make sure all these uh things are closed and all that good stuff. So we are on and running um side glass is clear. I've put in about two pounds so far, so we will see. I like how the uh on the field piece, manifold, it'll read the wireless scale, so you don't have to take the handle out. If you don't want to all right we're just watching this thing come down to temp, i want to make sure the sight glass stays clear and i want to see it drop significantly. I'm going to start cleaning up my millions of things i got up in this tiny little spot came back out the next day just to follow up on it. I'm working on some ac is everything's.
Looking good we'll jump up there and check the side glass, real, quick, looking good side glass is clear! Customers happy, so we're good to go on this one check the glycol level now that it's down to temp we're looking good all right man. This is uh good stuff, so we are done with this one okay, so the original service call was on a glycol unit: okay or a beer line chiller or a power pack unit, whatever you want to call them, but essentially it's a mini chiller and what it Does is it cools down a fluid that is pumped around the beer lines when they exit the beer walking, and it essentially keeps the beer lines cold from the moment it exits the beer walking to the moment that it comes out the tap head into your glass. Okay, so that fluid is a a glycol mixture, so it has water and glycol in it. We usually have the freeze point set 20-ish degrees.
We maintain about 26 degrees, something like that depending on the different beer companies and how they set it up. But we maintain that glycol at about 26 degrees. The whole hope of keeping that glycol as cold as it is, is to keep the beer below 40 degrees all the way to the moment that it comes out of the beer tap into your cup. Okay, if you have high beer temps, then you can t potentially have foaming issues and things like that.
You can also have foaming issues if the beer gets too cold too. If it starts to freeze the lines and it's a whole nother thing but anyways once i got out there, there was a whole list of things. Okay, we had a dirty condenser. We had a dirty filter.
I diagnosed the system to have a bad temperature controller. The contacts had stuck open. Basically, okay after i replaced the temperature controller, i went ahead and started it up. While i was you know, working on everything again whole big picture thing.
I noticed that the the pressure control had a rub out spot, but it didn't leak. Refrigerant yet so i was able to get it running, but then i found that the uh the system wouldn't pump down correctly. Okay, i could tell that something was wrong with the compressor and when i tried to pump it down to change the dual pressure control because of that rubbed out capillary tube the compressor immediately shut off on internal overload and then, when i got it to reset it Still wouldn't pull down, and then i showed you guys the pump down test where i pulled it into a vacuum, and then the pressures rose again, okay, so internally, the compressor was bypassing from the high side into the low side and that causes efficiency problems. The other thing i noticed was when i did turn it on it was taking a really long time to come down to temperature. So you know there's a lot of things that i may not have shown in the video, but there was a bunch of red flags. You know i noticed the compressor was really hot. It was turning on and off on internal overload. It was taking a long time to come down to temp.
You know just little bits of things, even that temperature controller could have been a sign of everything. Now, in my opinion, more than likely this compressor could have lasted a lot longer had we done routine preventative maintenance kept that condenser clean more than likely if the condenser was clean, the unit wouldn't be running the higher current draws and potentially make the temperature controller fail. As soon as it did, i mean it's just kind of one thing after another, so you know just as usual, like it happens in my videos all the time. We don't just stop at the symptom right, because the symptom was the temperature controller, not working.
You know the dirty condenser, the the the well, the rub out wasn't really a symptom of a dirty condenser, but i mean you get the point. Okay, big picture diagnosis is the way that i try to look at everything. Okay, because i want to sell the customer on my service, my service cost the customer a lot of money. Okay, if i can keep that customer happy and still be able to charge that large amount of money to the customer every single time i go out there, then i am successful.
The customer is happy right because they're getting value for the service that i'm selling them. You know and our relationship can continue. Okay cross, my fingers knock on wood. Most of my customers.
I maintain for many many years at a time: okay, yeah occasionally i do lose a customer here and there and most of the time to be honest with you. The reason why i lose a customer is because of my own fault i screw up. I do stupid things, you know, i don't pay attention to. You, know employees, making mistakes or who knows.
You know different things like that. But inevitably i try to please the customer. As much as possible, but at the same time i have to stay a profitable business, okay, yeah now that i went off on a tangent on that one um, so the customer was happy inevitably with the repair you saw at the very end of the video i Went back the next day now. Another thing is this unit. I noticed the entire time that i was working up. There was extremely hot okay, the entire time and their kitchen air conditioning. They have two air conditioners and an evaporative cooler. None.
None of it was working. Okay, so that probably added to everything too, so on top of having a dirty condenser, you know all of that. So when i came back out the next day, i actually spent the entire day up on the roof of which i'll probably make a video about that. Soon too, cleaning all their air conditioners, getting everything running as good as possible.
There were problems with that stuff too um. You know so again, big picture diagnosis right. You know a glycol unit, one thing after another, but on top of that i noticed it was really hot and i got them to approve me to come back and go through everything. So i try to be as honest as possible with my customer.
Try to take care of them and uh always trying to look at that big picture right. Um really really appreciate you guys taking the time to make it to the end of this video. Do me a favor if you guys are considering purchasing any new tools check out truetechtools.com if you, like, their pricing, use my offer code big picture. One word: it helps to support the channel because i get a small commission.
You guys don't pay anything extra. You guys get eight percent off your order. You know so think about that. If you guys want to try to support the channel, it really does help me and remember monday.
Nights 5 p.m. Pacific time i go live on youtube work permitting, of course, if i can get off work in time - and i talk about these videos, answer questions and then just kind of talk with you guys in the live, chat and kind of interact, so come check it out. Okay, that's pretty much it and we will catch you guys on the next one.
I like how all of the FieldPiece tools interconnect to each other. Definitely would make life easier. But ouy vey, that looked like a really uncomfortable working environment. Reality TV ainโt got nothing on IT or HVAC work.
Chris is an awesome man dud. He just fixes everything. Edit: (Man your quite brave using a tape as a bandaid.) I'll give this man a five out of five dud.
The caps are a good fit, very quality. Yeah that loctite shit is so sharp
love your vids. english is not my native so please forgive any translation or grammar mistakes.if you have those probes with metal heads from dixell (btw dixell R probes NTC PTE are the ones fully covered) you can use a shrinking tube to cover the gap between metal head and cable. I think they did this to the old probe in here too
I would buy a t-shirt that said – The Beer is Too Warm!
WILD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Great job !
Best Band-Aids in the trades paper towel and electrical tape that's what I always used
I always get confused why we even care about alcohol like it kills us but we still consume it?.
How are you able to get so deep into these service calls? Donโt you get backed up with other calls by spending so much time on 1 call?
You know youโre a pro when you say โleakingโ instead of bleeding
I have to tell, I don't understand most of the video, but is cool anyway
Jesus what died on the condenser thereโs blood everywhere XD
yo need to put antiseptic cream on cuts like that. When I started work in the 70's a guy lost his hand from an infection – the result of a staple in his finger (yes a paper staple)! You gota be careful. I think i would be wearing a mask while blowing or sucking dust.
I dig the videos but I couldn't help but laugh when you blew the dust everywhere to make an even larger mess, I hope thats not how you clean your house lol.
"oh time to clean the house, gets out leaf blower out and starts blowing everything down
So theres these things that instead of blowing the dust everywhere, they actually suck the dust up and it gets like.. ALL the dust. Its pretty insane , I forget what they call them though.
Superglue has always been my choice of bandaid in situations like that
I always carry super glue with me for any cuts I get.
Never thought I'd be interested in HVAC but your videos keep me watching for hours. Thanks for the informative and entertaining videos. Service area Barrhaven??
Damnnnn I thought it was an alien lathe from the thumb. xD
You could at least put a piece of tissue then wrap the Electric tape around your thumb ๐
You should get one of those cheap bendable tripods thatll grab anything to keep your hands free!
This guy separates the men from the boys Service area Nepean??
Ha ha ha.. You sounded like a bear expert for this kind of chillers. Ha ha ha…
Why do you wear a wedding ring when working around live wires Are you in Ottawa ?
i hope you arent breathing that shit in…hantavirus here you come! resturaunts are fucking FILTHY and disgusting. I will never so long as i live eat at another mom and pop resturaunt. Nope. Fuck That.
Using electrical tape instead of band-aid. Well I used first to put on the cut a tiny piece of toilet-paper or a piece of a napkin, and then wrap the tape around it. Used in my time as steel-worker anything from masking-tape to duct-tape in this way for small cut like these, and they are a pain , literally.
Do you cut most \ all failed compressors for autopsy? Is there a factory \ specialist refurb process that can be performed on some or do they all get scrapped and recycled?
superglue + tyvek is also a good band-aid; you can do it without the tyvek, in a pinch.
I just had an epiphany. Electrical supply houses offer delivery to the job and i assume hvac houses do too. However, these usually take several days. Do they offer a โquickโ delivery like auto supply houses do? For instance, when you need a compressor ASAP they could have it there within a short time? I know a lot of time is wasted having to travel to and from supply houses. This has probably already been thought of but due to lack of competition like auto parts stores, there may not be any incentive to offer this type if service.
They gave the dishwasher/ bar back (low man on the totem pole eight rat traps and told him to set them out. Done. They didnโt say to put them out in different places!
These systems look so janky
good vid, liked your solution to the potentially non submersible temp probe. Maybe the reason for the temp being higher after changing controllers was you were monitoring the highest temp spot (return line) instead of the main tank. Ive also never seen a 1/8th DIN controller with 20amp contacts. cool beans. Service area Ottawa??
I always thought Ethylene Glycol had a greenish tint to it or is that simply a dye that's only added to vehicle anti-freeze?
I am of the Opinion that before ANYONE can be allowed to design a piece of equipment (regardless of whet that equipment does), they should be REQUIRED to Service and Repair it for at LEAST 1 Year first…
Then you'll NEVER run into a mess like this…
At our shop we call band aids bitch stickers ๐๐
Iโm trying to get a tablet thatโs rugged enough for my service techs what tablet do you use? Are you in Orleans ?
Electrical tape definitely work's for cuts and splits I do it all the time Service area Kanata??
Super 88 is the best field bandage. I used alot of it when I used to build radio towers.
I once worked in service where it was everything but the big picture.
Hey man great video, I do residential installs and only evacuate through my manifold.. why donโt you like to use the manifold and what are some other options??
Customer calls for service and then your worried about cleaning there units? About dust? But there's no wet towels put behind the coils…seems rushed..not like your usual style brother. Are you in Nepean ?
Twenty years ago, well before my "semi retirement", a volunteer firehouse clubroom's eight-tap "concreted into an under-floor system", of about forty feet, began showing signs that at least two of the beer lines were leaking, as were the R-12 evaporator, and it's chiller system.
The ten ton Trane semi-hermetic compressor, and its accompanying components, were picture perfect in their placement and installation. The silver brazing work looked like stacked coins. After seeing the quality of that work, I could no longer say that my silicon bronze work was 'neat'. I was lucky in finding a mechanical fabricator whose skills-set was capable of fabricating a replacement evaporator ("Swiss cheesed"). The expansion valve was manufred by a company called "Detroit Oiler", and it's replacement was a bear to retrofit.
The original evaporator was a work of art, which resembled a revolver's cylinder. (the hot gas bypass system was installed in 1948, by "Moore Commercial and Industrial Refrigeration", a union shop from Philadelphia; those guys were true craftsmen)
I hope that at some point in your career, you experience a similar installation.
Btw, the repairs took nine days to complete, mostly because of the concrete and enclosure/encasement work that was required. Each evening – during that nine days, a warm bottle of beer greeted me as I stepped on to my porch. The tenth day, an envelope was taped to my service van's window, which contained a membership to that clubroom. Are you in Kanata ?
Btw I really like how you explain things, your very well spoken. Iโm not even in the hvac business but, with your videos I can easily follow along with your repairs.
One thing I am learning, many of the food establishments are very unhygienic and like most others appearance seems to be all that matters. Most are too happy with the superficial when they can do a whole lot better. I have much admiration for your work ethics.
Electrical tape bandaids are the best ones in the field ๐
3M Super 33+ is the best among the tapes.
Chris (and other HVAC techs), you'll love this one…
The other day at work, you know, the place I complain about with the atrocious negative pressure… Well, one of the cooks was complaining he was too cold while washing dishes (there's two intake and one exhaust vents right above the sink – most of the vent placement in the store makes no sense whatsoever). We had the thermostat set at 70, it was 89 outdoors with humidity in the high-90%. So we gave him permission to nudge the thermostat up 4 degrees. BIG MISTAKE. So much warm humid air was being pulled into the building that water condensed on Every. Single. Surface. Computer in the office? Front counter and registers? The floor, both front and back of house? The walls? The stainless steel food prep surfaces? ALL became soaking wet in a matter of a few minutes. Those Honeywell thermostats (that nobody knows how to set so they always ask me to "fix the air" when I come in for my shift) nicely pointed out to me that we had gone to 85% humidity indoors in less than 5 minutes… WOW!
It was ridiculous. We dropped the temp back to 70 and told him that, unfortunately, he would have to deal with it.