And let's hope nothing blows up. One over here for coming on. We got to go through it's closing. You heard the valve because the valve comes in the open position.

So this video is brought to you by Heatcraft worldwide. Refrigeration All right! Today we are doing a scheduled Meetup with the electrician because we're getting ready to replace this evaporator coil because it has several refrigerant leaks and the customer has opted to replace it. In fact, this customer provides their own equipment and they've already shipped me the evaporator. But the new evaporator is going to be an intelligent evaporator.

And in order for an intelligent evaporator, especially that has electric defrost like this one. Um, originally this particular evaporator is controlled by the condensing unit on the roof. so the defrost clock and the communicating uh, heater wires and everything are ran from the condensed unit on the roof. But with the new intelligent Evaporators, we need a dedicated power source.

So I'm meeting with the electrician today. I'm going to go ahead and install a junction box and have him bring the dedicated power into the junction box and I'll just Mount the Box on the wall and tell them this is where I need power and then when I come in to do the evaporator change out I just wire into that box and then I'll have him Mark the breaker and everything. So I'm just going to go ahead and locate the box and then wait for the electrician to get here. So I'm trying to make my job easier by doing this.

so I just mounted A J box where I'd like the power to be. You can see it's like a mess back here. It'll be nice installing this coil with all this stuff. but I wrote on there 208 single phase 20 amp circuit and I just want them to terminate the circuit in there wire nut it and I'll take care of the or the rest.

the old one was right there. We'll end up abandoning that now I don't want them using this box because I'm not changing the coil yet and I need this system to continue running. So currently it's running off the old condensed unit but the new one. I just need my 20 amp dedicated circuit and then when I install the new coil, we'll run it into it All right.

We are back today so the electricians ran power for me right back here. Little crooked but hey, you know I'll deal with it. we'll get it so we're gonna. That's my new power for the coil.

It's dedicated 208 single phase circuit because this is a 208 volt electric defrost beer walking coil. So uh, working on getting access to the top of the lock-in box right now and then we're going to go upstairs and get the condensing unit pump down because we are not replacing the condensing and we're just changing a coil on this job. All right, my condensing up here. So again, we are turning this into an Intelligent Evaporator Coil.

The Intelligent Evaporator Coil by Heatcraft has um, Defrost Solenoid Valve TXV a Smart Controller built in. so we have no use for the Defrost clock in this condensed unit anymore. So that Defrost clock will be gutted from this, and uh, it'll have built-in Defrost basically. So at this point, what we're going to do is we're going to be pumping this system down.

Uh, and then we'll be cutting the line, set loose downstairs, installing the coil, and then vacuuming the system down, changing the dryer before that sight glass, all that good stuff. and then, uh, we'll be starting it back up so it shouldn't be a huge difficult replacement. It's just going to be a little time consuming. All right.

So what we do in pumping the system down is we front seat this King valve on the receiver. Now, we don't got to get all crazy and proper. but for technicalities, the only King valve on a system is on the outlet of a receiver. Okay, um, I Know a lot of people use the term and it's not a big deal I Use it all the time too.

But just to be proper, this is the king valve because this shuts down the system. So um, we front seated the king Valves And then what we're doing is we're pumping the system down. Right now. the refrigerant is stacking.

It does not allow it to leave the receiver. So therefore, the compressor keeps pumping and it's pulling all the refrigerant out of the low side and out of the evaporator. and it's storing it in the condenser and in the receiver. Okay, so systems that are designed properly should have storage capacity for the entire refrigerant charge.

Now, this low pressure control will very likely be replaced today too, because it is a little wonky the way that it's working. So we're more than likely to be replacing that at the same time. But we have pumped the system down now. What we can do is actually push the contactor in and get it to pull a little bit lower to about five.

to you know, four to five. PSI Then we'll shut it down. So we're going to hold in the contactor right now and it's starting to pump down. We want to just take a little more refrigerant out of the low side than need be.

You want to be careful, especially on scroll compressors doing that because, uh, sometimes scroll compressors don't want to pump down that low. This is a reset. We should be fine now that we have the system pumped down. What we're actually doing is closing down this suction service valve and what that'll do is prevent.

Uh, when we open the system up to Atmosphere it prevents any refrigerant I mean any, uh, non-condensables from getting into the condensing unit. Now one problem that we have in front seating, that is. it makes it a little difficult. I mean uh, closing? that is, That we still will have technically a little bit of refrigerant trapped right here when we go to change the low pressure control.

but it's a minuscule amount. The pressure in the system is at 9 PSI at the moment because it's risen just a little bit. But this is a good idea to do as long as you have the valve positioned in a way that you can do that. and then now we can go ahead and vent the remaining gas which is just Vapor residual stuff from the liquid line in the suction line and the evaporator.

And we're not contaminating the compressor's oil with uh, oxygen. or you know, any non-condensables but this only works in certain situations. This type of valve, uh, we're allowed to do this on because it it reads from this side over here, so you just got to be careful about that. All right, we've got the system pumped down.

Uh, you can see we have zero PSI on the low side. It's important to make sure the system was running when we did that now depending on if it's really like, if there's a lot of moisture in the air or anything like that right now. It's very dry where we're at, so it's not as critical, but you can close these valves down. It makes it difficult when you're trying to isolate it, but it's nice if you're doing major repairs on the system because if you Close that valve down, then nothing's contaminating the oil in the compressor if that makes sense.

but we're all pumped down. We basically have the system open to Atmosphere We can go downstairs now and start getting ready to disconnect the coil and go forward with all that. All right. We have a plan to add a suction line P-trap right here, which is going to make it difficult, but it's going to be a bummer.

brazing up against this stuff, but we've got to do it. I Need a suction? P-trap so we might have to move some stuff around. get it out of the way. Use a lot of the Viper wet rag, heat block compound, and a lot of actual wet towels and stuff.

but that's the plan is to add a suction P-trap to it. So got the coil out so we're hoping that the new one lines right up to the same bolts. That would be really nice if it does. So we got to figure this stuff out.

We'll still have to start moving some things getting this out of the way, but looks decent so far. So what we're going to do is actually thought of something. We're going to pre-braaze this right here, which would be up against the beard lines and we're actually going to make a braised joint up in the attic. We'll cut this up there that way we're not brazing up against the beer line, so we've got nitrogen flowing on that guy right now.

Got a little step bit on there and we're going to braise this up real quick using a number two tip which is more than sufficient for this sometimes. I'll use a rosebud, but it should be okay now. I am cautious about brazing on top of a beer keg that is pressurized I'm not applying the heat anywhere where I think it's going to be a problem. would you be able to think about that kind of stuff? I Usually beat a little bit up just to see when I get the flow and then just get it to flow around the pipe and pull in.

Wearing safety glasses is our approved safety glasses. They just have a sunglass tent to them. they're made by bomber making sure that it's actually pulling into the joint. Nice and good I Like to go overkill on the solder to my company I Can do what I want and I don't mind an added expense for soldering.

It means that we don't have a leak. That seems like a good joint. We'll do an inspection on. it.

Looks pretty good to me. Don't see any issues there I don't see any issues. The camera doesn't want to focus, but it looks good to me so let's move on. Okay, we got a whole crew of people working on this right now trying to get this done as fast as possible.

The refrigeration lines are in different spots, which is fine, so I'm going to attempt to bend this one up here and go directly into that. We've already got the suction line hooked up and it's just going into the attic now. These coils come with an Eev and it's in the open position, so don't apply power, leave it unpowered, and you can actually flow nitrogen through the system while you're brazing, so we'll make sure we do that. We'll hook up right here and flow nitrogen in all directions while we're brazing.

All right. I Got this guy cut and bent I Got my swaging tool right there. Now the Navac tool. no affiliation with them, but you want it pushed all the way in.

Push the button and then you stop halfway because it'll split the 3 8. You got to stop and rotate there, and then there's a little button on the other side that you use to release it and then you turn it like 90 degrees and finish your swage. That's how it works. So in that way, it doesn't split the pipe.

It's not a perfect suede, but it's better than nothing more, so it looks pretty decent. Try to get a better view of that. Yeah, it doesn't want to focus, but it's a decent little switch all right. So we're connected there.

Got some heat blocking compound pulled back to anti-chafe bushing so it doesn't melt. We got to be careful around that sensor, but I don't think we're gonna hit it and then we're good here too. so we're gonna braise this up. Thank you Foreign, It's good to me good action.

Pulling in should be good to go. I Really do hate Court tape but the one use that it does have is these sensors. You have to put Court tape on these. Nice and good.

We're insulated all the way. I'm gonna pull the uh nitrogen off and then we're going to go up top on top of the box and then I gotta braze up there real quick. and then we got to do some work up top but we're coming along the drain. I Think we're gonna have to do some work because I feel like I don't feel comfortable with how high that is right there I kind of wanna twist this tea so that way the drain comes out and then goes straight up and has a little bit more of a pitch I don't know we'll figure that out and then electrical.

We got lucky we got tightened the way that we wanted it to go. so that way the electrical condo is just going to come over and hook up to here. Okay I Came upstairs we got the nitrogen up here because I have to braze in the Attic Now we'll come up here and do the dryer in a little bit and we replaced the low pressure control. It's got a protective bushing in there to be safe.

We eliminated the defrost clock and all the extra wires. I still tape everything off even though there's no power going to them. Same thing downstairs. so we're moving along a little bit at a time.

Hopefully we'll be done soon. We're still working on electrical and plumbing downstairs. So all right, the line set is kind of a mess up here. I'm not going to try to reinvent the wheel.

um, because we're not, that's not. This is a quoted job and it's very tight with the Ntes and stuff, so this was not part of my scope of work. We're just hooking up here I'd love to fix it, but it's just. you know, whatever.

I'll put some insulation tape under there. That's about it. In a perfect world, this thing gets redone, but maybe when we change the condensing unit eventually we can quote to replace the whole line set. so um, cutting it right here.

we're going to swage it I Just very carefully bent it just by my hands. just very, very carefully. No. Kinks Um, we'll swage this, push it into there, and braise it up.

Bring up everything you need. torches, tubing Cutters I Don't think I'll need a 3 8 Bender But I brought it insulation tape, swaging tool. you know, try to be as prepared as possible and then I have someone downstairs that can pass me stuff if I need It I Did my best to debur the pipe. It's not perfect because it's going down and we don't want stuff stuck in there.

Sand it up. Got the 7 8 suede on there this one too even though they don't tell you what this size. I Like to rotate it just to be safe. Boom! so it's pretty decent.

There's definitely room for improvement with the tool, but you know it's the only one out there and I like where they're going with it. So good job on the first version of this one. There's a few things I'd like: I Think that they should do the whole rotating inside there. My buddy Adam from the HVAC overtime show said that I guess uh, Upenor makes a Pex expander and it rotates for you and I think that would be very nice with this tool.

Foreign. Thank you all right now I realize there's a little drip of solder. you know? I'm not perfect. It's okay though.

Okay, so let that guy cool off and then we'll insulate it and then get off this roof and hopefully get the dryer changed in the evacuation running. All right. This is a 208 volt system so you got to tap the Transformer This is 208, not 240. so I tapped it and let's hope nothing blows up one over here for coming on.

we're gonna go through it's closing. You heard the valve because the valve comes in the open position. So we're going to go ahead and set it up. Go through the setup steps.

right now. it's either all eights or all nines I can never remember so it's all nines. Okay, foreign, messed up. It's taking me forever.

It's discovering the equipment. Uh, Foreign Temp Electric is what we want. Foreign. Set it on demand.

404 Box temp. they wanted about 35 degrees and I got to turn on the system upstairs now and this. uh, the delay just ended and the Exv just opened up. The refrigerant's flowing through so the fan motor should turn on here in just a minute.

I'm just working. There goes the fan motors. Now we're going to start getting some Cooling in here, so that's good. Super easy to set up the Intelligent.

nothing fancy. We're gonna let it run. bring the box temp down and I'm going to work on hooking these up now. I'm not a huge fan of putting these in front of the motors, but that's how the customer wants it so they take liability for that.

All right. These wires are all really short and that's where these wire strippers I showed in my recent Vans were really come in handy because you can get like on that ground wire and strip it and pull it down. And these wigos make it really nice too for getting up in here. So I made the Box safe.

That way the customer can't stick their hands into the electrical stuff. I do need to go get some covers for these some blank plates and then I need to get a blank plate for actually no I have a cover for that box so we're almost there, but we're going to take a lunch too. All right! System's been running for a bit I Didn't do the rooftop work but it's looking good. Dryer, put a spoiling catch-all 083 in so it's looking good.

Sight glass is clear, systems just running. We're trying not to, uh, really shut it off. We want the box to come down to Temp so low pressure control over there? Yeah, looking good it's It's hot outside though. it's warm for sure.

so we're just, uh, kind of waiting for it to come down to. Temp I'm going to put some electrical covers on all the J-boxes inside the box now. All right. We checked the liquid level on the receiver, added gas accordingly.

The old evaporate coil was leaking so got the refrigerant charge where it needed to be for the head pressure control valve. Um, as far as this guys go, I Want to talk about the intelligence? so you know the intelligence? Just a smart controller. The biggest piece of advice I can give you if you're installing an intelligent system, a beacon system. Um.

QRC System is braised with nitrogen and follow the instructions. Don't over pressurize the system when you're doing nitrogen pressure tests and different things. Trust me. I've made those mistakes and ruined pressure transducers.

So the other tip that I don't think a lot of people know is that the Eev comes in the open position. I Already talked about that earlier in the video, but it comes in the open position. So do not apply power. Leave the power off, Do all your braising, Put your nitrogen on the liquid line, let it flow all the way through the suction line, come out the top on the roof, do your brazing, and then when you apply power, you'll hear the Eev close.

Okay, it's not really something you can get to happen. you know, when you're uh, when you're working on it, it's kind of difficult to get it to open up unless you get it to go into cooling mode, right? So yeah, we're waiting for this guy. It's in its delay right now. But um, I mean really, all you got to do is like we already did.

Oh no, we don't want to go into service mode so let me get out of that. I don't need to go into that. So if you just go to monitor, um, there we go. Sounds like it's about getting ready to open up.

So box temp is 46, the set Point's 35. uh, cooler one a operating mode. so no, it isn't on yet, but it'll turn on in just a minute. We're just waiting for a delay time set.

There's really nothing crazy. Everything is pretty darn easy. Superheat is uh, set at 10 degrees I already said I already checked that? Um, you can see it's still pumped down right now at 13. PSI Uh, Exv is open zero steps so these things are rather easy to work on I Don't you know there's not really much going on? I Think it was important that I added a suction line P-trap The old system didn't have that.

those help for oil return, especially for long line set runs. Um, yeah, and that's it. I'm not a huge fan of these guys, but you know that's what the customer wanted. So I put them back in just like they had them and that's it.

We're gonna wrap this one up. We'll catch you on the next one. Not too bad. Right now you know this wasn't a full system replacement.

I Would have loved to have changed the line set, the VA or the condensing unit and all that converted the refrigerant over to 448a, but that's not what the customer wanted. This particular customer just wanted to change the evaporator coil, so that's what we did. It was a leaking evaporator coil, so we utilized the existing lines that just made a new connection. Did add a new P-trap to it.

Um, and that's where we went. Now when you're doing the intelligent stuff like I mentioned in the video, you know I Had to have the electrician get involved because you need an independent power source. Unlike the old equipment where the evaporator was controlled by the condensed unit, this one you need to have an independent power source if you open up the installation and operation manual specifically says that inside the manual. Okay, but other than that, it's really not that difficult.

You install it just like a normal evaporator. following best practices of brazing with nitrogen. I will say it's a little bit more important when you're dealing with systems that have electronic expansion valves because the orifices on those just trust me you want to put or you want to be brazing with nitrogen to try to protect your system. Okay, as far as setting up the intelligent control, you know really nothing too crazy about it.

It's pretty user friendly, just kind of follow through some basic steps. One thing that I will say if my customer was to allow me to install the web server card on the intelligent evaporator, we would be able to unlock the information in the intelligent evaporator and access it remotely. The customer could set it up to where they get notifications if something happens I could set it up to where I get notifications. We would be able to remotely log into the system and see live what's going on.

but all we have to do is install the web server card and then bring internet access into there. We have an Ethernet port on this guy. we could set it up, but it's a matter of getting the customer to approve that, and my customers tend to be very reluctant to install Internet controlled devices in their kitchens. I Get it? You know people are afraid of security.

You know, data information, whatever you know. but it's just one of those things that we have potential right here. You know, just a simple web server card. I've had this sitting in my office for a while now and I cannot get people to approve me to install it, but it could unlock so many capabilities of the intelligent evaporator.

But other than that, you know they're really isn't too much. Difficult about these intelligent evapors, they're super easy to install. I Really, really appreciate and I didn't point out in this video. but I do really appreciate on the new, uh, Heatcraft evaporators, they have a whole new fan motor bracket assembly that allows you to pull the entire evaporator fan motor out with the blade still attached and the bracket attached.

So super easy. and I really do appreciate that. and you basically just pull off the fan guard and then the the evaporator bracket motor blade. Everything just slides right out as a cassette.

I Think that's a really cool feature on these new Heatcraft evaporators. so I really appreciate you making it to the end of the video. If you haven't already, please consider subscribing to the channel. Uh, there's a couple different ways if you're interested in doing so and supporting the channel.

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