Really important is cleaning out this trough. This trough. Let me get my hand back here hold on this is what i'm pulling out of the trough. So all that's happening is when you wash it off, it just builds right back up there.

There's still i mean i can just reach up and get more handfuls of it. There you go more and then now it'll start draining. This video is brought to you by sportlin quality, integrity and tradition. We're called on the beer walking today not working and went downstairs and the beer walking is at 60 degrees.

All the fans are running, so that kind of leads me up here to the refrigeration rack, where we can uh kind of open a few things up see. What's going on in here all right, my beer walking right here says that it is system c as in charlie, and we got some buzzing contactors. That sounds nice, but system c is right here. It is not in a defrost uh system.

C right here has double breakers, because it's a beer walking with a freezer coil, so we have a heater breaker and then a walk-in or compressor breaker. So my problem doesn't seem to be there. All of my condenser fan motors are running. These two are an ice machine, so we're not concerned about these compressors in here uh system c, as in charlie, is right here.

It is not running, it is warm to touch and it has a cold suction line. Interesting all right at this point there's a lot of. I don't know. If that's oil - i don't know, but uh there's definitely a lot.

You know cycle, it looks like it just shut off we're going to put some service gauges on this bad boy. But if you look right here looks like there's a refrigerant leak on this oil pressure control. I mean this uh low pressure, control, capillary somewhere too. Okay, the sequence of operation on this system, is that the time clock i just know this.

Okay, the time clock sends power downstairs come over here. I'll show you guys the time clock on the number four terminal. The number four terminal runs downstairs to the uh goes through the temperature controller once it goes through the temperature controller and when the temperature controller calls it opens up. The liquid line solenoid valve the liquid line.

Solenoid valve, allows refrigerant flow to run through the system. The refrigerant comes up on the suction line and the compressor is turned on and off via the low pressure control. We also have. This is a dual pressure control, so it also monitors high pressure too.

So high pressure and or low pressure is what turns this compressor on and off in our situation, the compressor's not running, i'm pretty confident, i'm going to have a refrigerant leak based off of the oil that i see right here. Okay, so we're going to open up the pressure control and we're going to simply test across the pressure control, okay and see if we have an open signal now right now, we do not have an open signal on the pressure control, so that is actually not a Good thing we should have an open signal if it was a low pressure issue where it would show 208 volts, and it is not. Let me make sure that i'm on there good and i am - and we are not getting 208 volts. So our next step is to figure out why this guy right here is not turning it on and off.

I i thought, that's what would have been it, so we're actually going to step back a little bit. So if we come on over. Oh, that does not look good. Look at the beer walking system see look at how the contact - i don't even need to go there, but let's do it real quick.

So, let's test the breaker 205 we're testing from face to face 205 and my battery just died. Go figure but uh we'll go get a new battery, but i have a feeling: we're gon na have an issue with the contactor all right. So let's go ahead and start okay, let's test at the top of the contactor 208 or 205 205 205.. So we have three phase coming in and we don't have three face coming out yeah, so we've got a bad.

Let's just check voltage drop it'll tell you right now: 119 volts as the voltage drop across the c phase on this contactor. The other ones are fine. So we've definitely got a bad contactor here, so let's go ahead and power. The system down and uh we're gon na need to look into replacing this contactor we're gon na start by double checking voltage to make sure that it's dead.

It is let's check to ground. Let me find a good ground, let's put them right there, nothing! So this guy's dead, completely no power all right. The contactor i have is a little bit different. It doesn't have lugs, but i think i can make it work.

208 volt everything's correct on that. I'm going to go ahead and get ahead of the game here. You all know how i roll and switch over this cover yeah that guy's going to go in there just like that, got to be careful. Now in this situation, i'm going to go ahead and shut down the rack.

I you know i can do it live, but there's no sense in doing that today. So i'm just going to shut everything down real quick. There we go now we have a dead rack. You can't always do that, but in this situation i can it really helps to take a picture sometimes that we don't got ta like mark the wires or you can mark them i'll mark them too.

Sometimes this time, i'm just gon na take a picture that way. I have a reference to follow. I kind of already see what's going on here, but i will give a couple marks on things that i might mess up. Cool looks good all right, we're all wired back in everything's, nice and safe.

I went ahead and put this cover on flip this contactor around um, since i have the power off, i'm going to go ahead and flip this contactor around too the cover. Okay cross, your fingers, one two, three, please don't blow up all right. It started back up. Nothing blew up and the system is running, we've got a cold suction line and at the moment, a clear sight glass, but we got to let it run for a little while i'm going to investigate this refrigerant leak right here and see, what's going on with that, While i'm waiting little tip um, if you see a situation, especially on a service cap where you see potential refrigerant leak and um or typically, what i do is i don't remove the service caps.

Okay turn the system off or in this situation i just went ahead and sprayed it with soap bubbles all over the place. Um using the big blue love that stuff, but sometimes it could be in here. You know, and it could be on the cap and by removing it you could solve the problem same thing on the rotor lock. You know disturbing things it could be on this cap.

In this situation, the refrigerant leak is actually on the capillary for the dual pressure control all right in this situation. We know that the refrigerant leak is right. There um, but i'm doing a big picture quote here: okay, we're gon na see if the customer goes for it, we're gon na quote to replace the dual pressure control because we have to, but i also don't like the looks of this suction service valve. It's completely rusted out pitted out and a replacement of that suction service valve would not be too hard.

What we would do is just unsweat this 90 right here and uh replace this little section of inch and an eighth all the way down to the suction service valve uh. Now the trick is gon na be to get the correct suction service valve, because the after market suction service valves usually don't have double ports. So oftentimes you have to find the correct copeland part number. It could be a little tricky, but i'm going to do some research and find this service valve and we'll replace that whole thing.

The discharge side looks good. Everything else looks good, we'll, also change the liquid line, filter, dryer and we'll make note of the system charge, which is 25 pounds. So we're going to go ahead and let the customer know the potential it's not going to take 25 pounds, but the potential that we might need 25 pounds so that'll, be in my quote, but i'll just let them know that we'll only use what we use. You know that kind of stuff um, but yeah, that's where we're at so i don't think this is going to leak out the sight glass isn't flashing.

I think that i caught this soon enough before it became a real problem. This unit does have a head pressure control valve, but the head pressure control valve is really not going to bypass right now being that we're in the middle of summer, so i think we're going to be just fine come on guys. Did you really think i was done? You know, i can't leave well enough alone, um, just walking around looking at everything. First off i cleaned up this electrical section because yeah didn't like that come over here, just to give a quick glance, and what do you know this rack is uh dirty to say the least, just a little right, so uh we're gon na go ahead and clean.

This guy up by the way this is that receiver for that system. That thing is about three feet tall. I think it's pretty big boy, um, i'm gon na get my stuff out. We're gon na go ahead and clean this rack.

She needs to be able to breathe we're supposed to have a little heat wave this weekend. So i do not want to be out here on a weekend call. We still need to quote the repair, but that's all stuff. I got to order so i'm gon na go ahead and finish this up clean.

This rack opening up the condenser to look at it someone's cut out the head pressure control valve completely, there's not even one there. It looks like this was way before me because i didn't do that, but um yeah, so we don't even need the full 24 pounds in this guy. So it's not going to take that much refrigerant, but all right we're opening this up to go ahead and do a cleaning. I shut down the entire rack and we're going to clean from the inside out as usual.

I'm still surprised that some of these stores that i took over they're using lamp cord guys, i mean it's probably 16 gauge for condenser fan motor and uh. It's not even like protected just running through like it's silly, oh boy, all right! Well, i'll recommend that to the customer too, i don't know if they're gon na want to fix it or not. This thing, the fact that someone used that these racks have a history of wire rub out, so it probably has a um we'll need a whole re pipe. You know kind of electrical thing um.

I don't know if they're going to approve it at this time. I'm also going to clean up all these zip ties and stuff from these condenser fan motor changeouts. So we're going to use the viper brightener on this one because uh it's kind of greasy a little bit. So this is really good at breaking down the grease.

But you have to be careful, you don't want to leave this stuff on too long. So so so i'm using the refrigeration technologies, coil gun. It looks similar to the other manufacturer's gun. I'm using an attachment - one that's made by someone else, but um.

The gun itself has a different dilution ratio. So on this one, i'm mixing it on the b ratio and that's going to use very little cleaner and you'll notice that i've only got a little bit of cleaner in there that's more than enough cleaner for this entire rack. This stuff is highly concentrated. So, okay, we gave it a wrench from the top and then now we're just knocking all the big stuff off from the bottom and then we're going to apply some cleaner to it and get cleaner on the inside of the i coil to get way back in There, with the lawn that way, you can really get the stuff off and uh, like i showed last time really important is cleaning out this trough.

This trough, let me get my hand back here hold on this is what i'm pulling out of the trough. So all that's happening is when you wash it off, it just builds right back up there. There's still i mean i could just reach up and get more handfuls of it. There you go more and then now it'll start draining, but yeah you got to clean that trough out, so i'm going to get in this guy.

I think i showed this on the last one, but uh there's this whole trough up here and it gets full of gunk and dirt. So you got to make sure that you're rinsing that out, along with cleaning the condenser or it's just going to suck back up on the condenser when it dries out. So i just realized. I saw water pooling up while i was cleaning, and i noticed there was no drain holes in this rack, so i had to drill two of them until my drill battery died.

Two little guys, i'm gon na try to push out the rest of the water, but hopefully we don't have any electrical shorts i'll have to open up those electrical boxes and double check all right. I did my best um drilled, a couple more drain holes in the side rinsed out as much mud as i can washed as much down the drain. There's a little residual still left i'll, give it another rinse. Quite a bit came out it's kind of drying up pretty good.

It's not perfect, still a little bit in here, but can't always be perfect. At this point, i'm going to go ahead and fire this guy up and hope that nothing blows up in my face. I'm gon na be lucky if nothing shorts, because uh yeah, i got pretty wet in there. Condenser fan motors are on and running compressor b.

We're gon na do this slowly make sure everything starts up and runs compressor b, just pumped down. So it's waiting for it. That's the walk-in freezer, so it's actually waiting for the temp control, probably because it's got a digital temp control system, a it's nice and slow, there's d a's running d's running now. At this point, this thing's been off for about an hour and a half.

Everything should be running, everything should be calling go ahead and turn on system c and uh. We're gon na set the time two o'clock, two o'clock, one over here, two o'clock come on stupid thing. Now i realize, when someone left that off all right, two o'clock, so every compressor should be running now, one two, three four they're all running we're gon na. Let them run for a few minutes, so the sight glasses should clear up this one's flashing, but it also just turned on it's got a wet condenser.

It's gon na take a few. Everything else is clear that one's clear that one's, clear beer walking's clear so the cook shores is the only one - that's not clear, so i'm gon na watch it for a little bit all right, everything's, good, racks, running side glass is clear. On this little guy. Condenser is cleaned dried out, i'm screwing all the panels back on and we're gon na go and submit that quote to repair.

We are back today. The customer went ahead and approved the repair so, like i said, we're gon na go ahead and uh change. The dual pressure control change this valve as it's resting out real bad and then we'll go ahead and change the liquid line. Filter, dryer shouldn't be a hard repair and remember because someone already pulled out the head pressure control valve honestly.

We really don't need it here. It's not that big of a need, so i'm not going to bother putting it back in. So we don't even need to worry about the flooded charge. Then we're just going to clear the sight, glass.

Well, yeah we're going to get started all right, we're getting ready to recover right now, and i want to point out really important. This unit's maximum charge or total charge is 25 pounds. I don't think it has that much because the head pressure control valve is not in it anymore and for some reason i think i put that dryer in there. I think, if i remember right, if that's the case, i only charged it to a clear sight glass.

I get mixed up on these things because i work on so many that look the same so with that being said, if this unit has the full 25 pounds, the problem is that that recovery cylinder cannot hold 25 pounds of refrigerant, even though it's a 30 pound Cylinder does not mean it can hold 30 pounds of refrigerant, okay based off of the uh, the refrigerant type and the density factor of the refrigerant uh. Only a certain amount can go in so in actuality. We can only safely put 22 pounds of refrigerant in that cylinder, so we have to watch this. That's why it's so imperative that you uh use your scale and make sure you don't overfill cylinders.

You don't want to have a vessel blow a soft plug. I mean you'd be lucky if it blew the soft plug, you know um or the pressure relief, so we're gon na pay attention to that. I've already purged everything. So in this point we can just basically hit open the high side.

Compressor's turned off we're pushing refrigerant in we'll. Let it push what it can. I already zeroed out. The scale doesn't sound like it's pushing a whole lot right now, so we'll go ahead and hit start scale's running i mean machine's running and we're going to let it go and we're going to watch for 22 pounds of refrigerant.

My machine was kind of knocking. Let's see so i throttled it, you can throttle on this one, it's not bad anymore, but as it was knocking, i was just throttling it down slowing the flow, but you could just listen. The machine was going. You know all right.

Well, we're just recovering from the high side at this point, so we're just gon na let it keep going and we're at six pounds at the moment. I've also got the handle right there, two six pounds. So, okay, let it keep going. It looks like we're just gon na make it because we're at 20 pounds and we've got 14 psi, but notice something notice: the discharge, pressure of the machine.

Okay, that pressure is so high because the tank temperature is so high. You have to understand that this is a compressor and it's discharging gas, so it's compressing it. The gas is getting hot. On top of that, it's pushing it through a smaller hose.

Now i use 3 8 hoses to make my process go faster. If i was using quarter inch hoses, it would take even longer, and the temperature of the tank would probably get higher too, because it's struggling um, you could always uh set the tank in an ice bath. I mean they make like sub coolers and things like that. But i'm not in that big of a hurry, we're literally almost there so normally if it was a really hot summer day, four or four, four ten, eight i'll just submerse the tank and ice water and it'll push the process along real fast.

But we've got the nitrogen tank hooked up and we're doing a slow purge through the system. Right now i've got pressure. That's too high um, because what i did was. I was uh testing the solenoid valve and i went on a the high pressure.

The test feature. So we're waiting for it to bleed out all the remaining pressure and then we'll get on the brace function. So i turned it off and so it's slowly clean now, we've already started disconnecting the control we did have to turn the power on, but we isolated those wires in this junction box so that way, they're not live uh. At this point, we're gon na change out the pressure control, while we can actually because we're going to change out this valve.

First then we'll slap, the pressure control on there. As far as this valve, i think we're going to do is cut it back here, because i don't have the uh inch and an eighth outlet. I have a 7 8 outlet which will be fine, so we'll come out and then we'll go to instrument age right here is the plan. This is what we're going with.

We have it all mocked up, just making sure everything fit, and it's nice and good. Then we're going to go ahead and take it off deburr it sand it we'll get uh everything, all the heat compounds and stuff on here to protect it. We've still got nitrogen flowing through too all right. We got the viper wet rag on there.

I just got it all over it back there to protect the insulation, we're gon na get ready to braise this bad boy using a rosebud tip and we're using silver solder. I put a flexing agent already on there using 56 silver, so so plenty of solder on there just need to get it to flow down into the fitting looks good. Okay! Now we're not going to waste silver solder on the top joints, we'll just do normal. 15.

Still pass up here, we are purging with nitrogen too, so so so, okay, so this is what okay so heat, the copper! First back back back there you go, get it all around. Go underneath, go on top! Okay! That's plenty! Now just got to be moving fast. You don't want to leave the heat on there. Okay, now, on the joint yeah there, you go.

That's good enough to keep it on the copper tube right there, just get it just to melt on there, so you can see the flow okay now use that to manipulate it. When you see it go in, you know it's time to put this on, keep it in one place in one place. Now: okay, now move it to the side, all right on to the side for the cycle. You can't make it in one place at a time.

We've got plenty of solder, so now what you're going to do is just get it back. One is tricky because you can't see it so. The back one you're gon na heat, the copper, okay and then now notice. What i do here once i get that to flow then i get i know i got enough on there and i'm just going to kind of use it to go like kind of doing a blind you, this see everything good.

We got a little drip, it's quick! It's like okay, so there's a drip thing after that means we have way too much solder. I feel comfortable, so we're going to inspect these braze joints all right. We are all braised, everything's good, inspected, all the fittings they look good again. I run heavy on my solder so and then the silver solder or brazing wrong, whatever you want to call it.

This looks good too we'll sand this up and get the flux off of it and then we'll put the teflon ring in there. We still got to change the dryer and then we'll get the vacuum flowing on it. Okay, we're gon na work, our uh sensing bulbs over where they need to be something like that. I'm gon na take some nylon assembly lubricant, put a drop right on the mating surface, where the flare spins and then just a tiny bit on the threads.

I'm gon na screw this guy on there remember the nylog just acts as a lubricant, so the flare nut doesn't grab the copper and twist it real bad you're, always going to have some twisting. Okay, i've shown this a bunch of times too. So what i'm going to do is i'm actually going to twist it a little bit out snug it see, but i want it to turn because inevitably it's still going to turn a little bit. So when we turn it, it's going to turn down to where i want it to there, we go nice and good okay, nothing's, rubbing nothing's, going to break.

I like it, okay and then we'll do the other side now same thing, littlest bit of nylon right here. There you go and then a little bit of nylon right here, tighten and then twist it back, because you're always going to get a little bit of spin, no matter what okay and then just make sure that it's not going to hit anything. I should prefer to be like that. Okay, the lines are safe down here, we're good all right now.

We're gon na put the teflon ring in here and then we'll snug, this guy down okay. So what we're going to do is take the tiniest bit of nylon and kind of move this out of the way, just put it right where the teflon ring is going to go snap. The teflon ring in rub the nylog on now for this fitting up here. I'm going to take a drop of oil.

This is not going to get in the system. Nylog is cool to use too, but it gets kind of messy on the rotor lock fitting, so we're just going to drop a dab of oil on the back side of the rotor lock fitting there. You go just to make sure the roto-lock spins, nice and good tiniest. You don't have to do this on a roto-lock, but i put the tiniest bit of nylon on the roto-lock threads.

Then we're going to thread it on, let it on by hand you're going to do the same thing where you kind of pull the rotor lock valve the opposite way, because when you tighten it down, it's going to twist a little bit we're gon na twist it The other way snug one it good little turn on it. There we go nice and snug, didn't ruin the rotor lock valve or in that everything's good on that, and then now we just need to change the dryer and pull the evacuation. I put my micron gauge over here: okay, we're still pulling high pressure because i just started pulling the vacuum. We got a giant mess going on we'll start cleaning that up now i will say something: we're hooked up, we're pulling from the high side in the low side, but solenoid valves open, but i will say that the entire time i was doing this, i could smell Refrigerant uh boiling out of the oil, so even though we were flowing with nitrogen, we still were off-gassing refrigerant the whole time too um.

So i don't know that we're going to pull a perfect vacuum on this too. I i wouldn't be at least a bit surprised if there's more leaks in it too, so we'll see we'll see how it all works, but we're going to start cleaning up. Oh and we got the dryer changed out uh. You know i love going in with the flare dryers.

I use the spoiling catch off because uh they're, just i just love those dryers but um over here and i'll, show you so we go back in with the flare dryer see that and then we got the flare side. Glass just makes it so much easier. One! Less thing to do and again these catch-alls are badass, so um microns reading. Once we get down to about 1500 ish microns i'll go ahead and close the gas ballast uh vacuum went good currently charging.

So i cut rushing through some things, but what i did i've shown it many times before i closed off all the valves hooked up the service gauges to the ports, but i didn't open them and then hooked up the quarter. Inch process hose to the vacuum pump evacuated the gauge hoses closed. This down, opened it on that purged here and then opened the system so currently we're charging. We've got 11 pounds of refrigerant in there right now, 12 pounds of refrigerant, so we're putting in what we can into the high side.

I have the breaker off, so the solenoid valve is still closed, so it's just dumping it into the receiver and then we'll start. It up and clear the sight, glass and have the roof return. It may not take that whole charge we'll see. All right here goes nothing and come over.

Here, wait for the solenoid valve and the temperature controller to turn on there. We go see if we can catch what we cut in at oh, my bad, i never hooked it up. I had forgot, i am posted in here there we go now we're running all right, so i hooked it back up. We're gon na be low on charge.

I'm going to have to clear the sight glass i'm going to pay attention to the to the side glass and make sure i'm going to let it run for a while, like i said it may not take all the refrigerant, because the head pressure controlled out to The long-range system so try to grab the remaining refrigerant slap, the unit into a defrost should pump down, and because i have this open, it's sucking the refrigerant out of that bad boy, i'm gon na. Let that pull the remaining refrigerant out get as much as we can out of that. Guy, okay, the glass just cleared up. It's looking good we're gon na watch, this guy come down in temp, but uh, i'm just going to run down there make sure that the box temp is good and we're going to call this one to quit and we are nice and cold.

It's about 34 degrees. In here right now in the beer walk-in, so we're looking good, looking really good. So it started out just as a call. You know beer walking, but we can't just go in there and solve the um contactor problem and call it a day.

We we have to keep looking bigger. Okay, always look bigger, always try to figure out everything. Now the customer may now always approve everything, but at least you went to them and gave them the full diagnosis right. So after i replaced the contactor, i found that the condenser was dirty.

I went ahead and cleaned the condenser and then we quoted the repairs for the pressure control that was leaking now the system wasn't even flashing yet, but it was something that we took care of. I brought that to the customer's attention they approved it. We changed that service valve, you know, got them up and running to the point that um everything is operating as good as possible. Basically, okay, um customer was really happy.

But again i can't stress enough. We don't just go in there and solve the first problem or symptom, really, you know and just ignore the rest of everything else. Okay, just like i said in the video you guys know better than me. I'm always gon na try to go through there and spend a little bit more time and double check everything: okay, but again keeping the customer in the loop, letting them being part of that decision making process.

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Okay, we will catch you guys on the next one.