This is happening more and more as our equipment is getting older and older, it started as one problem than a few weeks later another problem popped up.
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I've actually had the compressor lockout board lock out on me from compressor start up, high load and potentially bad cfm would cause that board to lockout
This is one of those frustrating calls that just nag at you
Loving the videos mate keep it up. Love from the hvac tech’s from Australia
Freaking clo's
What thermal device are you using?
Great video! I’ve never seen anyone do an insulation test on anything. I’ve always ohm tested motors and made sure the amp draws were good while starting up and running. Definitely going to look into insulation testing motors.
How powerful is the force that kicks the switch to turn on home a/c compressor? Seems like it’s all an intentional over draw on the system just for someone’s profit not necessarily for humanities benefit . I feel like we can do a lot with a fraction of the energy we currently consume to adequately temper dwellings.
Good job Chris, maybe installing a terminal block before the contactors to distribute the power wires might help the situation, try a regular nipple and see how that works.
Curious why you needed a new propeller for the aftermarket condenser motor. Didn't hear you say the hub or blades were cracked.
You may consider using a close nipple with a locking ring and bushing on both sides in leu of the chase nipple.
It wasn't blowing fuses, it blew the fuses, big difference.
It would be helpful if you stated how many fuses were blown & how many times, b/c you didn't, I'll presume once.
I really like your videos, but there are so many problems with this video, I'm dumbfounded, you were not isolated, in the middle of nowhere, this isn't a critical cooling application?
And why use a fused disconnect? it's more expensive, & yes, I understand why it was in the first place(I'm not sure if you do?).
The gush from the newbies & mediocre mechanics in the replies is to be expected.
This reply isn't for you, you should know better, it's for others to think.
Again, I appreciate your content & as always your honesty.👍
*Knockout bushing & chase nipples to keep on hand, & ALWAYS in the service truck/van would be Thomas & Betts, aka T&B, two different series, 3210, 3211 & 1942, 1943, both 1/2 & 3/4" respectively, add a number to go to one inch.
One is nylon(knockout), the other is metallic(chase).
If you look around there are long chase nipples made. I've used some.
I have used stainless nipples with locking rings and plastic bushing to get the length I need for going from the unit to the disconnect.
First time we've heard contactors look great Service area Ottawa??
Awesome video and observations as always. Thanks Chris.
In Measurequick with multiple compressors running different refrigerants are the circuits assigned the refrigerant in setup or do you have to change refrigerant type each time cycling between circuits?
Do you use Qbits on your regular customers units to be able to keep records of past readings? $5/yr/unit?
Wish you could fix our central air unit don't trust local A/C people. All they want to do is sell you a new unit and I know it's only a leaking inline dryer.
Chase Nipple is the correct name. They make them with longer threads (1"). Usually just called a "Long Chase Nipple" or longer thread version. Loved the video, actually was good that you didn't edit the older footage yet so we could see it all at once. Thank you! Are you in Ottawa ?
Could I recommend a delay on make relay for one of the compressors.
Higher resistance in the disconnect and fuse holder will not result in higher amps directly, but it will reduce voltage going to the compressors, which makes them overamp, which can cause the fuse to blow. But the extra resistance in the fuse and disconnect will also cause the fuse to heat higher than ambient, making them less resistant to tripping. If the extra resistance was in the contactor, it might not have been enough to blow the fuses. I won't say that closing the air damper helped or hindered, as the makeup air is just going to blow more hot air into the building that the AC still has to cool. A swamp cooler on the makeup air fan might help with that. Just some random thoughts from someone who took a few Electrical Engineering classes
A good replacement for the bush fitting is a cable gland.
You need a cable gland for cable protection against chafing of the frame.
Strain relief for the cable also comes in handy here. Service area Nepean??
I've been doing HVAC for 30 years listen to me
With older units like that if you slightly under charge the system your problem will go away you have to compensate for the loss of heat transfer from the condenser you probably lost a minimum of 15% condenser capacity if a unit is older than 10 years old
30° across the Delta is good
Could you have a voltage drop from both compressors trying to fire off at once and causing a short cycle condition and tripping the internal overload? Are you in Barrhaven ?
I put money on it that the old condenser fan motor as it runs for an hour to two hours as the motor heats up the RPMs of the motor drop and what does that do that puts a high head pressure on a compressor because it's not moving enough air across the condenser I guarantee it is that replaced condenser fan motor that is going out and if it's an elf's Smith motor I put money on it
When you get on old stuff baking in the sun year after year running 24/7 you can only do what you can do Service area Orleans??
Close nipple locknuts and plastic bushings both sides
Wow, I was surprised on how dirty the condenser was, but I guess it did not look too bad. Strange one indeed, I wonder if you will get another callout?
Possible that you have a plugged condenser coil? Those carriers are known to have plugged coils that you have to split the coils and clean. On cooler days they seem to run ok and might have a little low charge. But on the super hot days they like to crash on high head pressure even with a slightly low charge.
Not sure if the requirements are different in the US, but 550MOhm seems a bit low for the max range of an insulation resistance meter. Generally:
* Isolation resistance >= 5GOhm = ok
* Isolation resistance < 5Gohm and polarisation index >=2 => ok
* PI <2 => monitor more closely
* PI <1 => dangerous, needs repair/replacement
I'm guessing that Y1 and Y2 hitting together …. so super inrush current … in combination with the bad disconnect ew the fuses. Also … I wouldn't be surprised if you get a call back cuz those contactors obviously had SOME voltage and you helped by pushing them in… or maybe it WAS the lockout. Who knows, lol.
Our company primarily works on commercial HVAC/r equipment from 1980-s to 2015's, when ever we come upon a bad condenser fan motor, and the system has 2, and both looks same age or OEM, I always replace both to save myself and the customer a call back, and thats exactly how I explain it to the customer. Great video as always! Service area Kanata??
Use running thread conduit and cut to length
Good catch on that bad disconnect. A question I had: after replacing the disconnect, do you find it good practice to take "after" temperature scans on the new box/wiring to see whether there may be additional causes for high temperature on that one leg (compromised wiring or bad connection/breaker at the panel)?
reverse the chase nipple
Chris, are you running a disco ball in your office now? Lots of flashes on the curtains.
I like to carry a small amount of 3/4 inch liquid tight,this larger diameter allows for those reducing leads to go inside.
If you have blown fuses but just can't find a cause, it's probably fuse fatigue. running close to the amperage rating of the fuses for an extended period because of dirty condensers or whatever can wear them out.
Those Klein multi drivers are very handy. My 1/4 and 5/16 fell off one day but I primarily use it on condenser fans and blower motors. Very handy on roofs. Really enjoyed the video.
I worked on this same exact model a couple days ago, even had the same square hole where it looked like something was missing. The complaint was that it was leaking water down the vents. Turned out to be a plugged condensate line, easy fix. 😀
Can you place plastic tube in the Chase nipple to reduce rubbing Are you in Kanata ?
Good video 👍 work. Are you in Nepean ?
Home Depot has varying lengths of threaded nipples in the electrical department. Could always get one a touch long and use plastic bushings on both sides. Also, check out those old CLO boards lol
Also, we all know you keep the clear packaging film on the insulation tester display just to mess with us.
Why do you wrap the capacitors in electrical tape?
A rare question for you: how many units have you replaced piecemeal?