All right, this is really weird. This is the motor starter that trips, okay, i've got a hood switch right here. When i turn off this hood switch, these do not actuate, they do not shut off. There's a contactor that i can hear up in the attic.

Turning on and off up there, so the fans are turning on off via the hood switch, but this is not turning off the fan. This is really interesting. This video is brought to you by sportlin quality, integrity and tradition. So today we have a call on uh exhaust fan, not working 9-1-1 saturday morning, get out here as fast as possible.

Take it out here. Okay, now you got ta wait for security, so i'm standing here waiting for security, but it was an emergency. You know it's like they can't call before, but it is what it is so we're just waiting all right, so our exhaust fan should be over here. It's the exhaust fan over there.

Fryers should be this guy right here. So, let's open it up and uh see. What's going on here, uh got the fan, opened up the belt's, not broken um, it's not running uh. We should turn this off for giggles, okay, belt's, nice and snug no problems there.

It rotates it's not locked up. Okay, um switch. We can test to see if we have power coming in and we've got no voltage, let's go to all the different legs. Nothing on that one.

This is a three-phase fan, nothing on that one. So all three legs, no power, i'm gon na go ahead and turn off the switch and we're gon na go ahead and put the meter on tone all right. So we're toning out the load side of the switch to ground to see if we have a direct short of any sort or it's grounded motor nope, nothing and just to confirm yep we're good, okay, so uh, there's no direct short here. We're gon na go ahead and leave the switch off and we need to go downstairs to the circuit, breaker or the motor starter cabinet and figure out.

If there's something going on down there. Real quick before we go down and reset potentially something whether it be a motor starter or breaker. We want to check to see if there's anything stuck in the wheel. It's really greasy, but i don't see anything stuck in there.

Let's see what we can do now. Let's fix that in a minute, but okay, let's go downstairs. Another thing is: i noticed this make-up. Air unit's not running same thing belt moves, so we're going to turn this guy off too.

Sometimes they couple motors together, they really shouldn't, but sometimes they'll have like motor starters and breakers that you know control two things, so we shut this guy off too. Let's go over here. What is this? This is a back exhaust fan, not working. Okay.

What about this? Guy, this is another one, this one's working okay, so we shut off that exhaust fan and that make a bear unit that way we can reset something and test them from up here. So we look up in here and this guy's trips right here and the makeup are stripped so we're going to reset that. Well, you want to be careful, i'm going to check voltage before i reset them all right line. One to two has 208 line two to three has 206 and line one to three has 205 and should be the exact same thing for the makeup air unit: 203.

206. 205.. Okay, so we've got incoming voltage. These guys should be on now we have the load turned off, so we should be able to safely reset them kind of turn.

Your face away. There's one there's one so both of them are reset should be sending power to the motors yup. I'm gon na have to go up to the roof and check up there um, but i don't see anything wrong with these starters. The makeup air is set for about five and a half amps before it trips, and it looks like the exhaust fan set for about four amps before it trips so now's the time to go up under the roof and restart him and see what happens.

I'm not too worried about it right now, but this is a temperature sensor for one of the hoods and it's bad lll. Either it's not hooked up or something's going on there. It's not sensing temperature. This is a set point and this is the actual temperature uh.

With it like that, it'll run 24 7 because the sensor might be bad or i found them never hooked up before too. But that's not necessarily going to be my problem now we should be able to get them up and running. Hopefully, if we come into here, you can see the motor current is allowed to be 3.98 at 208 volts. So i've got my amp clamp on this guy, we're going to turn it on and see what happens so we're running under current by the little arrow.

We're going in the right direction: okay, we're going to turn that off. Let's go and come on over to here we're going to open this one up and check the current draw on this one too. So this one i have to put the cover on because it's a make-up air unit and it'll pull too much air through here and it'll over amp. So we need to put it on and pull it through the filters.

But we got to find out what the actual current draw is allowed to be, and it looks like at 230 volts 4.7 amps we're going to run 208, so it's gon na be a little bit less, but we're allowed to run 4.7 amps. I checked voltage on the top okay. We can just confirm that we actually are delivering proper voltage up here, 203, one to two two to three: i'm not getting a good 204 there we go and then one two three two or three, so we've got proper voltage coming up now. The next step is, we want to check before we reset it to see if there's any uh shorts to ground or anything okay.

So i've got my meter set on tone. I'm toning it out on the metal we're gon na go to the ground, screw we're gon na go down here to the load side. Nothing, nothing! Nothing! So! We've got no tone to ground doesn't seem like we have any direct shorts. The motor spins we're gon na keep this guy on there actually now that i think about it, put it on current we're going to turn it on and see what happens it's running under current two amps, okay, so that seems fine, so why did it trip? Let's turn this one back on it's running interesting.

I wonder what the dealio is. This one was not part of that power. I don't think this one could be a dishwasher exhaust actually now that i think about it. I bet you.

It is - and i bet you oh nope - this guy is uh when i turned it on it was locked up. Let's try it again, yeah, it's not doing anything. Let's get a meter on that one. Now i'm curious that shouldn't i shouldn't mess with anything, but this one's definitely not working uh yeah.

It is a dish fan so dishwasher exhaust fan, so this shouldn't have anything to do with uh with the other ones, because this is 115 volts. So we have no power, let's go ahead and turn it on and let's see what happens yeah we got 115 volts, it's just not running. It's got a speed controller which are notorious for causing problems. Actually, it's disconnected because when i turn it off, it's still humming like crazy yeah.

These things are junk. Let's see um i've got it. Power turned off, so we're safe my hand under it yeah the motor is uh locked up. I can feel it.

It's really tight. So this guy is going to need a new motor, we'll take the information off of that, but that's just something i found today. I don't think that has anything to do with why we're here, i i don't think there's any way. This could be connected to why the motor starters, so this is interesting.

We have two motor starters separate motor starters that were tripped um. I'd have to go down and look at that cabinet again to see if they're powered from the same breaker it's possible that they are now that i come back down here and look at this. The exhaust fan itself is set a little bit low. So it's set right at 4 amps and it's it's rla is 3.98.

So we're going to crank this guy up a bit um, i'm going to also do a follow-up because i was going through. My history manager had mentioned something, and we were here in august for the same thing, but it was just the exhaust fan motor starter, so we've got it reset. I also want to look into this temp sensor. That's not working right here too, but i'm not going to do that right now, because we're on overtime, so i think everything's going to be okay for now, we'll tell them to keep an eye on it and we'll come back during the week uh when we're not On overtime and go through this a little bit more thoroughly, so i said that i've seen this before, but i've been looking a little bit more there's a temp sensor on this one.

You can see on those two terminals, but if you come over here to this one to the right, where that says, lll there's no temp sensor. I've had this before, where it's never been connected, the temp sensor and what that'll do is actually make them run. 24. 7, depending on the setup, all right, we are back this morning, we're here early before they started cooking, so we can kind of look try to figure out.

It's been a while, since i was previously here, which you guys just see it as a clip. It's been at least a week, so they haven't had any problems, but we're just going to kind of follow up and go through everything. Something i did want to address was. I was worried that there wasn't a temperature sensor hooked up to this relay, but it doesn't seem to be affecting anything so they may have it programmed a different way, because no exhaust fans are running.

So my thought was that it wasn't going to shut off the exhaust fans, but that's not the case because everything is turned off, so they must have it programmed a different way, but uh we're going to get up onto the roof. Look at the exhaust fans see how they're doing and just look for any other potential shorts or anything that could have caused the motor starter to trip. So you don't see, we went ahead and pulled the belt off. Nothing wrong in the drive.

Bearings have fluid motion. They've been greased recently, the motor bearings are a little rough sounding yeah. The motor bearings are a little rough sounding, so we're probably - and this is why we wanted to come in after we got it running - we're probably going to go ahead and talk to him about replacing that motor. That could be part of the cause.

If those bearings are getting dry, if there's a bad bearing in there or a bad, you know spot or something that could be causing the motor to run high current and trip the overload. It's always important to try to come up when it's early in the morning. So you can hear you know or when the equipment's off, because earlier when i was here the last time we had all the other stuff equipment on the roof running. So now it's super early and i can listen to those bearings.

They do not sound good. Okay, we're still gon na pull it and inspect it real, quick, um and then we'll look at the make a pair too. All right now on this we're gon na do separate quotes because originally they didn't know they had a makeup air down too. So i'm gon na have them give me a separate work order, so i already have one for the fry exhaust.

Then i'm gon na have them give me a work order for the makeup air and i asked them to get me a work order for the dish fan, because the dish fan doesn't work either, but we're gon na go ahead and investigate this right now. So, looking at this makeup air unit, i don't hear any funny sounds in the bearings or anything, but they've got a bad motor pulley and you can tell by it. It should be a perfect v-shape in there and it shouldn't be oblong like that, so that motor pulley needs to be changed and that can cause issues. They definitely need a new belt.

Look at that that thing's, just cracked, all heck so we'll be working on that to hold the motor apart doing a mega test on it. I'm not seeing any problems there, i'm not thinking that this is the problem, but i still don't understand what caused this motor starter to trip they're not linked together. So the the exhaust fan over here is separate so that i believe, because bearings are going bad in it, but this one doesn't sound like there's any bearing issues here um it could be. It could be that like if someone pulled the panels off and ran the exhaust fan with the panels off for too long that can cause it to overload the filters.

Look pretty dirty and the belt looks jacked up. So i don't think anybody was in here. Taking the panels off we're currently putting this motor back in it passed the insulation test and then uh. We also tested this conduit because on this mx conduit right here, there can be rub outs in there, so we tested the wire in there didn't see any issues.

So yeah we're putting it back together. We don't know the reason why this one tripped, but we're definitely going to talk to him about a new motor pulley. We've got the unit put back together, we're leaving this belt somewhat loose because of the bad pulley. You don't want to over tighten them because they'll get stuck in there and i'm just waiting for someone to call me right now and turn on power.

So we can test to make sure we got it wired back up for the correct rotation, because this is a three-phase motor, so we could have easily messed up the rotation by flipping any of these wires that i had unwired all right. It's always good to do things and play around so when we went to go turn this guy back on it won't start and it's locked up so power's off. We've got free movement belt's, not too tight, everything's good. Let's see what happens if we try to do this, look at that see it's trying to start and it's not starting so intermittently we're having a problem with this motor and that's why the motor starter was tripped, so we're going to verify that we have proper power, We'll check that real, quick and make sure it's not a bad switch, but if we have proper power then it's definitely going to be a motor issue so check this out.

I don't know if this just happened or what, but i want to go start this guy and it wouldn't start - and then i checked voltage here to here this leg. This is line voltage coming up and i have nothing right there, okay, but that's the power wire. The power wire broke off and it's sitting right next to the ground almost about to short to ground. That's crazy, huh.

So i have someone going downstairs: we're not touching anything he's going downstairs to turn it off. Um yeah! It was a trip because i went to go turn this thing on and it wouldn't start and i'm like it was running what happened, but that wire broke off when moving the switch around a bunch. That's much better. We got it all put back together.

It actually runs we're good, so we're gon na put the panel on and then we're gon na quote a new pulley and uh go from there all right, well we're here on a uh monday at 4 p.m. I'm gon na be missing my live stream because these guys couldn't approve a quote. We have this exhaust fan trip the motor starter again and the sad thing is, i don't even fully know if the exhaust fan is the only cause for the motor starter tripping. What concerns me i ended up having to get a 2 horsepower motor i'll, explain that in a minute, because this makeup air unit and this exhaust fan keep tripping.

I think at the same time - but i don't know for sure, because every time i come in both those motor starters are tripped, but what's interesting they share the same power source. So there's a single three-phase 20 amp breaker, which annoys me, but the electrician did follow the schematic in the hoods it's it's said to do that, but still it's kind of silly to me, but i still don't understand what could cause both of them to trip at The same time, if they only share an incoming power source, it doesn't really make sense to me they're, not wired, in a way where, if one trips, the other one trips, it's none of that stuff, they're independent after incoming power, but regardless we reset this one. It worked, we reset this one and it worked. So we still don't know what is causing the motor starters to trip, but we do know that this one had bad bearings inside of it.

So it's gon na be hard for you guys to hear it with everything else running, but now because they waited until last minute to approve my quote and didn't approve it. When i quoted it a week ago, i had to get a a motor from the supply house, and this is all they had was a two horsepower, but what i needed was a one and a half horsepower, even though this motor is a one horsepower i'll explain It once we get it in because we are kind of under the gun, they're running without an exhaust fan right now, so i got to get this thing thrown in and then i'll explain all the chaotic mess that happened to make this a little bit easier. We hinged it up, so we're not trying to work down in a deep exhaust fan, we're making the electrical connections we just confirmed. Well, we think we confirm phase rotation but we'll know for sure when we flip it over and put the pulley on it, but yeah just try to make your life easy, and i always try to tape my connectors right here just to stop any potential vibration wire Nuts coming loose or anything like that, always give everything a good tug, all right, we're up and running we're running under current this new motor is running out 4.37 um.

We may have adjusted the pulley a little bit because that's probably why it's running a little bit higher, but we're well within what the motor is rated for, because this is a two horse now. So it's two to one and a half, but so 1725 rpm and you're allowed to run what is it six amps 5.6 at 190 volts. So it does drop a little bit, but we should be within reason on that guy. So we're doing good um, but again we're not completely out of the water yet because we don't fully know what was causing this thing to trip another thing: we need to pay attention to we're going to come back and follow up on this guy, but we are Going to have to go check the over current setting on the motor starter to make sure that we're within range still and this motor starter isn't big enough um.

It only goes to 4.8 amps, so we're going to have to replace it i'll end up. Uh it'll get us through the night i'll end up coming back and replacing the motor starter with a bigger one, um we'll put uh. We need ours to go to six amps as well, actually higher than six, because the the current of the existing motor, the new motor, is six amps, so we'll get the one that goes from six up um. I think it's like four to eight or something like that so, but this will get us through the night, all right, so we're in here first thing in the morning before they start moving and cooking, and i went ahead and shut off all the power, so we're Gon na verify, but we should have no power three phase and we shut off the hood control panel power.

We're locked out we're safe, so we're gon na change this motor starter. I have a new motor starter um and we'll get it all dialed in all right. So we assemble our motor starter, so it comes with an overload assembly and a contactor assembly. Once you put them together, it becomes an actual motor starter.

We have our current right here, all right now we just tested to make sure, even though we know we shut off the breakers, we just tested to make sure there was no power, but understanding what's going on with these motor starters is the most important thing, because When wires accidentally fall out and things happen, then you know you know how to fix it. So we have three phase incoming line. One line two line - three okay right up here - is one side of the coil. That's the 115 volt side of the coil voltage.

This is the neutral side of the 115 volt coil voltage. Now, if you notice this actually isn't wired in correctly, because i wired it this way to get me through the night, i took the overload assembly out of the picture other than that you've got three phase coming out the bottom as long as it's not in a Tripped position and the coil is calling or pulled in sends power three-phase up to the motor, so this is our motor circuit up here. This right here is our coming from our breaker panel. So it's really not too difficult.

Now they are daisy, chaining right here. Three phase: i said yes uh when i was here. The last clip you guys saw, which was yesterday for me. Three phase comes in here and goes to this motor starter and this motor starter, so they're sharing a common breaker, which seems a little silly to me, but according to this panel right here, it actually follows the manufacturer's specifications.

It's also interesting looking at that neutral wire, it's got some burning going on on it. I wonder if we had a loose wire situation so i'm going through, i replaced all the neutrals that were burnt all the way up to there and then now i'm looking at the the power wires, these are even burnt. So this thing all these wires are burnt. It's interesting look at that.

There you go um, they had some power problems a couple years back where they had to replace an entire panel, and i don't know if this was part of it part of the damage of it or what i don't know, but we're just replacing what we can In here all right, so we redid a bunch of wiring in here all the burnt stuff that i could get to i'm not going to redo the whole panel there's definitely some misorganization and things like that. Now what we have going on here, i said we have a common power source. It's jumping from this con motor starter to this, to this motor starter, actually for three phase, so the exhaust fan and the makeup air are powered from the same breaker, which i don't like, but you know whatever i'll talk to them about that. We also replaced all of those power wires because they were all burnt um.

We, this orange wire right here, which is our 120 volts for the hood switches that controls it. We cut those back because they weren't burnt all the way through they were just. You know a little bit so we cut them back. Those are fine.

We replaced the neutrals on the bottom all the way back up to the connection point up there, so we're good there. Everything else is looking pretty good. We've got the motor starter over current set. Uh, these motor starters come in a tripped position.

If you didn't know that if they've never been reset, they come in a tripped position. So there you go now it's in a normal operation position and we're basically ready to start this guy up now they have a separate if you follow these orange wires right here, which is the coil voltage. This exhaust vent and this exhaust fan have the same. Coil voltage, but the make up air does not, and that's because they're running this through a micro switch in the fire suppression system or they might be just going through the shunt breaker.

So if you come over here, there's the micro switch for the fire suppression. If the fire suppression ever went off, the makeup air unit turns off and the exhaust fans are turned on for fire reasons, because you shut off the makeup air unit because you don't want to fuel the fire with oxygen, so they shut off any sources. So they'll usually shut off all the acs and they shut off the make-a-bear unit, but then they force on the exhaust fans, whether or not they're running to try to suffocate the fire. So that's why we have a separate power source right here for the make-up air unit.

All right. This is really weird. This is the motor starter that trips, okay, i've got a hood switch right here. When i turn off this hood switch.

These do not actuate. They do not shut off, there's a contactor that i can hear up in the attic turning on and off up there, so the fans are turning on off via the hood switch, but this is not turning off the fan. This is really interesting. So, let's go right here: all right turn off the hood switch see we lost incoming power.

Usually the incoming power goes to the motor starter, but they've got another contactor before this shutting off power. I'm intrigued by that. That's not part of my scope of work right now, but i'm very intrigued because we're changing the motor starters simply because the over current protection wasn't high enough and we went with a new starter that had the over current that i could set higher basically right here. Okay, but i'm intrigued by what they're doing here, because this isn't a normal operation to have another contactor before these ones right here, usually the hood switch shuts this on and off, so that is just silly up in the attic there's a giant.

What looks to be like the shunt contactor or something like that? It's a giant mess. This is not not my thing, i'm not getting too too much more involved in this, but i'm just curious about what the heck was going on. There's also a contactor. I'm also up on top of a 10 foot ladder right now too, so i don't know how they expect anybody to ever get up into here.

This is kind of silly but huh. Well, at least i have my answers. It's chaos. It's weird, though, having that contact right there, all right, don't be that guy clean up after yourself, i'm gon na clean up all these little tails, even if nobody's ever gon na be up here again, you know you, you want a clean area.

Um, i'm gon na talk to them about this controller right here. This is a temperature controller. Essentially you have a set point of 85 degrees if the hood temperature ever gets above 85 degrees, it forces the exhaust fans on now why this one is the only one. Reading a temperature, while i said it last time, there's no sensor hooked up to this one, so i don't know how they have it programmed or not.

But i'd like to get a sensor on that one. That way, we can actually see temperatures on both hoods um and control it via that way. Right now, but obviously they have no cooking appliances running on the main hood, because it's only 72 degrees right now and dropping as it's been running. So we're gon na go up onto the roof now uh check the rotation of the fan, make sure it's going in the right direction and then also we're gon na slow it down a little bit, because yesterday i got it up and running, but i was kind Of in a hurry and we're running a little bit over what the original current was so we're gon na slow it down just a tad all right as i'm thinking about this, as i was getting ready to leave right now or go upstairs.

I just thought about something so that contactor that's up top in the attic. I have a feeling that whoever wired this panel didn't understand about the temperature controllers. I bet you, they didn't have an hvac guy wire and they probably didn't have an hvac guy. Do the startup - i bet you, they had an electrician that didn't quite understand not saying there was anything wrong with electricians, but i'm just saying in general, whoever wired this panel.

My prediction is: didn't know what was going on and didn't know that these were temperature controlling devices. I think they never ran the sensor for the other exhaust hood. Hence why, when i turn off the switch right, it turns off the exhaust fans, but these are still running. I think that the electrician couldn't figure it out and he wired in a contactor to shut the system off from this switch, instead of just hooking up the temperature controlling sensor to that controller right there.

So the way it's set up right now, if we didn't have that contactor in line it would shut down or it would run 24 7 until we put a sensor on there. I think that's what happened here so realistically. The way that this is set up does not meet fire standards, because you can you can't physically turn on the hoods. If there's a fire, it might not, it should drive these contactors on, but if there's no power going to the contactors, then they won't drive on when there's a fire situation.

So, in order to fix this, i think we would have to eliminate that contactor in the attic and then run a sensor to that one. I highly doubt the customers want to go gon na want to go that far, but i bet you anything. This is what happens and it's always about you know you really got to stare at this stuff and try to make sense of it. You don't just assume everything's the way it's supposed to be all right, so we came in here.

We opened up the pulley. Just a little bit got the current just under 4 amps, which, if i remember right you guys, may be screaming at me, but i swear that's where it was at before just under 4 amps, so um. We should be good to go. It's going in the right direction, we're going to double, tighten all the bolts, and we are done with this one we'll make recommendations to them to see if they want to fix any of the temperature controller issues and stuff.

But i doubt they're gon na do that. What a mess right, but this is how a lot of my calls start out and end up. It starts with a simple complaint of an exhaust fan, not working, and you walk up and intermittent problems can be tricky now, if you guys made it obviously to the end you're watching this, i'm wondering if you caught on to what the potential issue might have been Now i did not elaborate really in depth, but at the end of the video we found our issue we found what's causing the motor starters to trip okay, i should say i found symptoms of something that i think are why the motor starter tripped all of the Problems that i did find the the wire that came off the makeup air unit, that was by me when i was testing all the stuff. The wire was just weak and it broke okay.

So i repaired that no big deal, but i don't think that was a problem. The bearings in the motor those were bad, but i don't think that was the problem it could have been. But more than likely, this whole debacle started because that extra contactor is going bad more than likely, it's pitted out has a high resistance and is causing high current situations every once in a while. I think when that contactor is turned on in the morning, that it is not making a good connection and it's causing high amps and causing the motor starters to trip now in this situation.

I did my best right because we walk up to a situation where the problem is not reoccurring. It's not happening in front of my face and i have to go through and systematically eliminate issues. So we start working through things. You notice that the first day i was there, i couldn't hear the bearings failing in the motor, but the next morning when i came back in early in the morning when nothing else was running, i spun the motor and it's like.

Oh, you can clearly hear that the bearings are dry in there they're going bad okay. So sometimes you can't always find those issues and you have to come back and do a follow-up, there's nothing wrong with follow-ups if they're justified right and it's always good in a situation like this now in the end um, i ended up telling them to get an Electrician involved, because i did not know what the heck was going on up in that electrical box. That was above the attic with that contactor i didn't know what else was being controlled in there and i'd rather have an electrician getting involved to have him change out that contactor, which certainly i could have changed out of contact her, but i don't know what the Other things are doing on the flip side. He might not even know what the other things are doing, but i'd rather him get in there.

Now that contactor, in my opinion, should not be there. Okay, the way that the hood panel is wired up is incorrect. There is no fire proper fire shutdown uh. That can happen if the hood switch is turned off because the hood switch um.

Well, i shouldn't say that there is none. I mean i guess, there's a possibility that in the shunt trip breaker. No, i don't think there is. I don't know you know, there's so many different ways.

Really. I guess it is possible because if the contactor gets powered on by the ansel system, microswitch, okay or the fire suppression system microswitch, then theoretically, the microswitch could also shut down the makeup air unit motor starter. If it's actually wired into the situation, i don't know you guys. Sometimes we run into things um honestly, going into the micro switch settings and understanding how the fire shutdown happens and stuff really is a couple steps out of what i'm really supposed to be doing.

But it's just out of desperation of having issues and having to um try to solve problems that i have learned. Fire shut down right because that's not really in my scope of work but going in and finding out that this isn't working, because the ansel system went off or the fire suppression system went off, has taught me how proper fire, shutdown and or the turning on of Components should happen so typically, where i'm at with my local codes. What we will see is, regardless of whether the exhaust fans are running when the situation happens. If there is a fire in the building, they have links inside the hood system that will melt okay.

They have temperature sensitive links that will melt, and the entire hood suppression system typically is under pressure uh via like a cable and if that cable releases, if that link melts because of a fire, it triggers the fire suppression system. When that happens, there's a micro switch in the fire suppression system panel that will typically turn on all the exhaust fans and turn off any supply fans, i.e, makeup air units or ac units. It'll close fire dampers different things like that, and the theory is that they're going to suffocate the fire by running the exhaust fans, turning off any fuel sources, because they're, assuming that nobody's going to be in the building now, if someone goes and pulls an ansel poll Or they are a fire suppression poll station really it should do the exact same things too, but it's going to change from area to area depending on codes, but that's typically how we see it in my area and the way that this system is wired up. I don't think that is possible because i think it is incorrectly set up.

Also, i talked about those temperature controlling devices in the hoods there's two of them there's two of them for a reason, because one goes to one hood. One goes to another hood. The two hoods are not connected: they have different exhaust fans running each hood and those temperature controlling devices are supposed to power on the exhaust fans, regardless of whether the hood switch is on. That is another safety process that most codes are going to call for is in the event that the customer forgets to turn on the exhaust fans.

They want a temperature controlling device to manually or automatically turn on the exhaust fans if a cook or a management manager forgets to turn them on. So if someone goes and turns the fryers on inadvertently and doesn't have the hood switch on, then they want the temperature controlling device to turn it on too, without the customer having to flip the switch. So in this situation, the way that it's set up, that cannot happen because there is no uh thermistor ran to that extra temperature control so, and i have seen that at the same uh customer not the same location but at the same customer at another location. I've seen that exact thing where the the restaurant had been operating for like six or seven years and the hoods just never shut off, because they didn't have the temperature sensor rent and i have a video on it.

All that i had to do was run a thermostat wire from the control cabinet to the sensor boom problem solved. Now it turns on and off via the hood switches um, but in this situation that would happen if it was wired up correctly. But because someone went in there and wired, the hood switch to turn off that contactor up in the attic that contactor supplies power to all the motor starters. So i believe, inevitably, that the contactor is the problem, because, if you think about it, why is it that the make up our unit and the exhaust fan that share the same power source and the same breaker will trip the motor starters when they technically are independent? The motors out of the motor starters right when it comes out the bottom of the motor starters they're independent, because there's two different motor starters: they just share a common power source.

So what would cause each of those to trip? Now? I don't know if they're tripping at the same time, but logic tells you that more than likely they are. It has to be something power related right. So if we had a contactor up in the attic that is not making good connection and is causing a high current situation because of a bad connection, um uh, you know, then, theoretically that would send crappy power down to the motor starters. The motor starters theoretically would uh send that crappy power up to the motors and then both of the motors would theoretically over amp and then potentially that's why they would trip okay, you guys solving some of these problems is, can be kind of confusing, but this is An interesting one - and i love these kind of calls, because, while i was frustrated in the moment because i couldn't figure it out in hindsight when you're done - and you get to look back at these, these troublesome calls these these ones that make you really pull your Hair out, in the end, they end up being some of the best learning moments and you learn lessons that you can apply to service calls from this point forward.

So i can. This is the first time i've ever seen something like this right. So more than likely, i'm going to remember this and if i ever run into another situation that is now going to be part of my troubleshooting logic, where i'm going to think you remember that time that that happened. That created this weird sequence of events, and here we are so theoretically i'll, never forget this.

This was a learning moment. I love these aha moments. These learning moments because they're fun in retrospect in hindsight right they are so much fun to be able to think back and analyze. Oh yeah.

This is where i could have gone differently. Okay, but i'm not wrong. So i think about this whole every time i finish a service call, i always reflect like how could i have done that better and in reality, there's only a few things that i might have changed about this call. I went down the right steps.

It was an intermittent problem, intermittent problems happen and they can be troublesome to diagnose. Now, of course, i want to be that guy that comes in and diagnoses. Everything on the first call and solves all the problems, but that's not how it always works all right. So i hope you guys enjoyed this video.

I know it was long, but this was actually a really fun one for me, because it was just a great learning moment. You know i because i have the skills that i have. I was able to apply my knowledge and go through the troubleshooting steps and in the end i was able to figure it out. So, where i left this one, i told them to get an electrician involved and i needed an electrician to change that contactor up in the attic.

I did get a phone call from an electrician one day and i guided him to where the contactor was. I sent him pictures of it whether or not he changed it. I don't know i did my part okay. I will say that i have not gotten another service call at this location, but i did give them the ability and the information and put it in their hands.

So the customer knows that if they have any more problems, they can certainly call me, but i've already told them what they needed to do. So, that's all i got. I really appreciate you guys making it to the end of the video. Please excuse my messy office.

I just got back from the ahr trade show, i'm still trying to put my office back together. Um it was uh, it is so humbling to get all the support and the feedback from you guys please. This was a really fun one for me. So please, let me know in the comments criticism i'm open to it.

Do you think i could have done something different give it to me, bring it to me in the comments. Let me know what you would have done different. How would you have approached this call? Where did i mess up? Where could i grow and where could i do better, because i am always looking to better myself? I hope you guys are always looking to better yourselves, too. Okay.

Thank you so very much. If you're interested go to my website, hvacrvideos.com we've got merchandise available there. It's great way to support the channel um couple other different methods in the show notes: patreon paypal, youtube, memberships, um, there's links to everything in there there's a great ways to support the channel truetechtools.com. I have affiliate links in the show notes of the videos.

Um, you guys are awesome. It is so humbling to be able to deliver the little bit of knowledge and share it with you guys, uh this support. It is awesome, so thank you so very much and we will catch you on the next one.