This video is brought to you by Sporland. Quality, integrity and tradition. Well, it's an early morning, it's about 7. A.M Got to the restaurant a little bit early because we are going to be doing some work on this exhaust fan.

This exhaust fan has got bad bearings. We're gonna put a new motor on it. We priced out a replacement exhaust fan and it was insane. so customer opted to have it repaired.

So that's what we're going to do today. So I'm going to take you guys through the process of what I do to replace the bearings and go through all that stuff. First thing I'm going to do is take some penetrating oil all right and we're going to spray it on all these surfaces. We're going to let it sit for a little bit.

We're going to spray it on the bearings. Just let it sit while I'm kind of getting all my stuff ready and just let it start. Maybe doing some work here. We have all different methods of getting these bearings off.

These bearings are at least 20 years old. I've been the only person to really work here not too worried about this. but I'll go ahead and put some on it anyways because we're more than likely going to be changing the motor. but we'll just let this penetrating oil sit here and then, uh, kind of break some of the stuff free.

Hopefully now. I Wasn't really planning on fixing this exhaust fan, it just kind of came up. So when I condemned or when I attempted to condemn the fan and get all the information for replacement I wrote everything down last time. Okay, so based off of that I got new bearings for it now I Don't know if the bearings are going to work because they're a different brand.

The offset might be different, but to me they look pretty good about where they need to be. You always want to make sure before you tear the whole fan apart because I've done this before where you tear it apart, you put the new bearing on and then the new bearings offsets like a quarter inch off and then now the wheel hits something so got to make sure as you're going along. So so far they look like the right but will definitely have to be doing more work once we get the pulleys off and stuff and then we can determine. So the entire time we're thinking before we go any further, don't damage anything, don't destroy anything.

Just in case we get all the way to the point where we get the pulley off and we find out this bearing won't work, then we can at least put it back together. So in a perfect world we come in. We just cut everything. we replace the shaft, the wheel, all that stuff.

I'm not doing that today. we're just changing the bearings. That's the plan, at least foreign. So I got the pulley and the taper bushing off okay and I cleaned it up as best as possible.

The shaft has a little scarring on it, but nothing too bad. but this is the main reason so that play. That's where the this thing's making a deep grinding noise. so that guy's bad.

So next we're going to go ahead and, uh, take this bearing right here. make sure that it looks relatively correct. If I can get it on there, we go make sure it kind of matches up and it looks like it's going to be right. Everything looks good.

Let me get in here and make sure these set screws aren't tight and I'll see if I can get it down a little bit further. But I think we're going to be okay to proceed further. In a perfect world, it's best to break the bottom bearing free first because then this one is still supporting the shaft. If you break this one loose, then it's hard to break the bottom one loose.

so we're going to try to get the bottom one. This looks like uh, what is it? A locking collar is what it looks like to me. so we probably got to break the locking collar for you, then break the race from the bearing itself free. But we got to do the bottom one first.

So that's what we're aiming for right now. So we're doing everything every. uh, Allen wrench in your bag? Yeah, could this be original apparents I don't think I've ever changed these before. It would have been me.

Oh man, that sucks. Get a screwdriver. Foreign. thank you buddy.

Hold that lid ready. So we're using the weight of the wheel by turning it the centrifugal force that it's creating. because when you turn the wheel, it doesn't want to turn back fast. So the weight of the wheel helps you to undo these nuts.

So what I'm trying to do is it's back and forth and it's not really grabby, but usually that'll break it free. We could get some heat out if we need to. Now another thing too is the top bearing is the one that's bad. I Typically like to change both bearings.

Sometimes it'll get to a point where this thing's not coming off and I have to make a decision. So again, that's why we don't destroy anything. We don't have to, so it's just there's nothing really holding it except for it's been there for years And years and years. That's all.

Why don't you get me my math gas torch from over there? We'll speed this guy up a bit. We're trying to heat the bearing and not the shaft. It's kind of hard, but you're hoping that the bearing race will expand and the shaft will stay cooler because it'll contract the shafts. So when we use this, we use a dead blow hammer because it doesn't Scar the shaft.

It just doesn't percussive. Uh, convincing foreign, foreign. That's what. I don't like normal channel locks they don't grab as well.

Can you picks are having a hard time too? Epic's getting there? No, it's not. Come on. So in this situation I would get out the grinder and start cutting, but it's going to be kind of difficult to cut and in order to cut this bearing I have to lift up the whole wheel and shaft and take this one off. So I'm going to give it a little more effort before I commit that far.

Thank you I Don't think this guy's gonna go completely put them all together. that way they don't get lost. Okay, Dead Blow hammer. Thank you.

Foreign. You're going to need to lift on this outer edges straight up. just light pressure when I Turn this here we go. There's one now.

Unfortunately, it would have been a heck of a lot easier to get the bottom one broken free because then this one would have just slid right off. It's not how it works. it's got to be difficult, so we got to figure out the bottom one. now.

go ahead and get this stuff out of the way. Uh, in a few minutes. Probably gonna need some more towels, but if you look around I have some scattered around here, just make sure you keep one that's totally clean around. Okay, we need a measurement from here to the top of here so we know how to set the next bearing three and five eighths.

Write that down on that piece of plywood three and five eighths. what up again. Always put them together. it's a chance.

Foreign. Thank you Foreign. Got the outers off everything looking okay with the wheel. Yeah, not looking damaged or anything.

Is there any way we can wrench this under here? Lift up a little bit foreign. thank you Foreign. So sometimes you can go all the way through. and like I mean I've even slightly scarred the shaft and it's not a big deal if you clean it up.

but in this case all that we did was by cutting it. We actually were vibrating it and it was actually enough to to break it free so it didn't actually have to go into the shaft at all. Okay, some of that lube I don't want to go past that certain point sandpaper one right here. Split it.

a little dimple. There we go. Now we're free. we're gonna take bearing now.

The new bearings that I got are set screw bearings which I like better. All right now we're just gonna line up the bolts. you can start grabbing those. Okay, foreign.

So that was three and five eighths. so we are at seven inches so we're high high. Okay, so this is what we got to do. So three and five inches from three and five eighths from here.

So essentially I should be able to mark three and five eighths on here. and then that's where it should be. So I've got my marker. 3 and 5 8 is approximately right here.

Should be this lined up with this when we drop it down. So next thing is, we're going to have to have an Allen wrench to tighten this down. So that way we can, uh, we can lock it in about right there. Hold on, hold it.

The bearings will be self-leveling so come over here about right there. tighten this one set. screw right here. just snug it.

Okay, out, in out in a couple more times. Okay, we're going to turn it and you're going to Snug the other one. Okay, all right now it's over here. Move the plywood.

so the bearings are self-leveling That's why I can go like. Okay, so that's approximately where I think it needs to be. We get the other bearing on. Yeah, we're gonna put the bearing on.

Just like this. Check out the dessert. Let's pull it out into the other one. Actually, just get them both.

We'll put them on right now. right up right there in front of your face and then, uh, whatever that is. Maybe a 5 16. quarter inch, 5, 16 quarter.

So grab your open end. Oh, you know what? it probably won't fit over it. so you're gonna need to get a quarter inch. Uh, ratchet wrench? probably.

you have a quarter I do if you don't, the back of my bag, roll my little miscellaneous tools on. So we got to get this. So that way the set screws are not on the key, we go and just tighten them in. I Prefer set screw bearings over locking collar I Get the locking collar.

They self tighten themselves and technically set screws can come out, but it's easier to change in the future. And I mean it's very rare that I have a set screw to come out. That's why you run it in like I did and then we'll let it run for 10 minutes. Then we're going to tighten everything all right.

So this guy's good free. Now we need to put the pulley on. Oh, go and get those zerks and take the cap off. So we've got the bearings installed.

the pulley Loosely set on there. We got to set it once we get the motor installed. So we're going to install a motor. Most important thing is when you install the bearings, it needs to free Spin without hitting anything and it's not.

We're good to go. We'll double tighten everything after it's ran for a few minutes. But like I said, next one is getting this motor. Replaced I'm down in here.

We've got to make sure that it's actually hitting the key that's being pushed down. and it's not. So this pulley has to go up a little bit. not tightened down here.

Almost like got itself into a little mine. Okey-dokey So now that's fully on the key to tighten this guy on. All right. So we're getting everything set.

We're going to get a new belt because apparently I had the wrong belt size. so we getting two new A76 Ax 76 belts. Now this exhaust fan is not sitting level so we can't use a level to tell us if the belt is straight. So we got to eyeball it now.

I Do have a straight edge, but it's actually rather easy to eyeball these fans. All you need to do is look at how the belt is riding in here and look at how it's riding in here. and look at you know the you can. You can see it.

It's hard to show it on camera, but you can see it. So you can always use a level and assume that you get the belt way off like that. So I mean it's actually almost there if you. If you use that logic right there and right there, it's pretty much the same.

but to me as pretty darn straight looks pretty darn good to me. And again, I'm looking at how it's riding in here. right into that pulley. You just kind of look at the Angles and look at the angles.

Here, find a straight edge and then check the other side. Looks pretty good to me. Typically what you want to do because this has a taper, um, bushing. So you actually pull it up about an eight to three sixteenths of an inch actually.

I'm sorry. you go down about an eighth of an inch or so because when you tighten this, it's actually going to pull the pulley up into the taper. So you go down about 3 16 to an eighth of an inch. And then when you tighten these guys, it's going to pull this pulley up.

So the supply house didn't have the belts. This is actually the spare is actually a new belt and this one's not in too bad a shape. so we're actually going to leave it on. It's an ax belt.

so we're We're where we need to be now. I Got to wire in the motor electrically? Uh, we'll put new conduit and then go right into the motor and then hopefully start this guy up All right. We're using the low voltage side so T four, five and six get wired together. Four, five, and six.

so we gotta find those. Typically they wire these for the high voltage, so that way you don't accidentally burn up the motor. Sometimes they'll come like pre-wired So we need to find four, five, and six. So six is going to be Gray Seven, nine, two eight five is black and four is yellow.

So four five and six. gray. Black and yellow. Two, six, double check.

T4 T5 Those three are getting wire netted together. Low voltage, three phase. It's rated for 460. or 208.

So okay, there's that nice good. Twist On him now. Seven and one go to line one, One, two, two blue and pink. seven, one, line one.

Sure, they're good. They feel good. We'll pull the slack out and then two and eight go to line Two, Three, nine, eight, two, Two and eight are going together. Make sure always tug on the wires and by process of elimination, these two should be nine and three, Three and nine.

That's it. And we'll reverse the rotation if necessary at the disconnect switch so that we can close this up completely. All right, that's good now. I Just got to get it all in there and then we'll wire over at the disconnect switch.

All right, we're all wired in. I Have someone going downstairs to turn on the power switch. We control it at this disconnect. Now there was no ground in here.

I Went ahead and ran aground, but there's still not a ground going downstairs. Old school. They were using the conduit as a ground, but using flexible seal tight as a ground is kind of sketch because it can break and then you lose your potential ground. Now the odds are is that it's grounded through the fan, but you never want to rely on that.

You always want to have a dedicated ground going back to the breaker panel, but old school codes allowed for you to use the conduit. so on older buildings you tend to see this. but at least on my part I have it grounded up here to the motor. So again, I'm just waiting for my tech to turn it on.

Then we can check phase, rotation and start adjusting uh, the pulleys if need be for current. All right, here we go. Let's uh, have a look, what direction does this fan want to spin? This fan wants to spin clockwise, so if you look at the blower wheel it should Spin and blow out. So it should go this way is what it should go.

So let's go ahead and hit this power switch and we're going the wrong direction. So it's really simple. We'll just reverse the phase right here. any one of these wires.

All right, and let's try it again. Now it started a little loud. might just be that we need to grease the bearings, but it certainly sounds a lot quieter than it did before and we're moving air like we should. Everything's good.

We're definitely going to grease these bearings, but night and day difference. We're going to let it run for a few minutes and then we will, uh, double tighten on all the screws and everything and we're going to start cleaning our messes up. All right. We are up and running.

we are running. under current for the motor. I Pretty much set everything where the other stuff was set. Now we are going to be replacing some other fans on the roof in the near future and we're going to be getting a test and Balance company out here.

so I'm not too worried. Uh I I Ballpark got it where the other fans were as far as the pulley and stuff and everything and the current's about where the other current was I know you guys didn't see me measure that, but um, we're good to go. So we're just cleaning it up and we're going to give them the keys, put the lids back on and this fan just got another couple years of life out of it. So uh, we just saved another one so it's definitely a different style of video.

I Usually don't show like you know the whole working process. I Just figured I'd give it a shot and see what you guys thought. I didn't think it turned out too bad I tried to trim it up as much as possible. There was three hours worth of footage so I trimmed it down to what 35 minutes or something like that.

When it comes to doing bearings, power transmission kind of work, the key is cleanliness okay and then also understanding what you're working on in my situation. it'd been many years since I've changed bearings on something because majority of the times customers just replace equipment they don't want to put the money in. Uh. I Priced out a new exhaust fan.

It was going to cost like 20 grand. The repair was significantly cheaper than twenty thousand dollars, so the customer opted for that option. Now the fan itself is in pretty bad shape. It is pretty worn down.

it's Bowing in a couple sections, but I think they still at least get another five to ten years out of it. I would think those bearings will make it last a little bit longer and then further down the road they can make a decision on what they want to do. Now again I Said it's about cleanliness okay and understanding the the, the, the, the procedures you should follow in the steps. you should take in the proper order of those steps in a perfect world.

I Like to break the bottom bearing free because if you break the bottom bearing free then it can be suspended the the shaft and everything is still suspended from the. Top If You unbolt both top and bottom bearings and try to work with it. Then you have nothing holding everything in place, the wheels pushing down on something, you run the risk of damaging the wheel. I did put pressure on the wheel I had it sitting on that sheet of plywood.

I Highly suggest carry one of those in your van. Uh, just uh, what? Two and a half foot by Two and a half foot sheet of plywood or something like that and they they come in handy. That one. I used for a job previously in the week and then I just so happen to have it on this one I threw it away after this job because it was all covered in grease.

They're nothing in comparison. So I always pick those things up. they're good to have. Um, but I did apply some pressure on the wheel now understanding the construction of the wheel and what it's made out of.

it's made out of steel. You don't want to be banging on it too much because if you start to bend the wheel, then it's going to be out of balance and the fan is going to vibrate and it's going to cause issues. But I did apply some pressure because I knew the limits of the steel that that was made out of. If it was aluminum, you wouldn't want to apply any pressure whatsoever because the slightest bit would warp it.

I Really hate when people use aluminum wheels, but they do. Every once in a while. The aluminum ones have their own problems where if they don't clean them regularly, they'll actually get damaged because of the grease buildup on them and the whatever the physics of it. centrifugal force? who knows.

I don't know some voodoo magic stuff, but uh, I was able to put a little pressure on it. You saw me banging a little bit. Using a dead blow hammer is a key when you're doing this kind of stuff because it has the sand inside of it so it still has the weight. and like I said in the video, it's just like percussive convincing basically that you use when you're using those dead blow.

Hammers and they they're good. I I Really do care? Uh, you know, like using that in a lot of different aspects of this trade. that dead blow hammer comes in handy for sure. So I was able to break everything free while the the top bearing and then I ended up having to cut the bottom off.

now. I'm sure there's some people that said I should have just cut it from the beginning, but it's I prefer to try to take them apart mechanically if you can. it just you know tends to go faster now. this one didn't so we ended up cutting everything off.

Sometimes you have to cut all the way through the race because it won't break free like this one, but on this one I was able to just Notch it relieve some of the pressure and then also the vibration of the cutting wheel kind of broke the race free and then I was able to get it off, then clean the heck out of everything Slide the new equipment on and then just level everything out balance it. Now did you guys catch the the mistake that I made? I Made a big mistake, but it ended up being okay in the end. Okay, and I'll explain why. go back and look at the pulley sizes.

For some reason: I got the motor pulley size incorrect. It was about an inch too small. so theoretically I slowed down that fan a little bit. This particular customer is actually in the process of changing a lot of equipment in their kitchen, so I'm not too worried about slowing down that fan.

They used to have a charbroiler, um, underneath here and they don't anymore. So uh, they they. Basically they're rebalancing their building coming up. Okay, so I did put a smaller pulley on there, but it's not going to make a huge difference in the grand scheme of this setup.

and again, they are having an Air Balance company come out soon and they'll balance out the building for what the new needs are. so it wasn't too concerned on that. But you do want to be careful because the pulley sizes change the speed of the fan and everything affects that. Okay, so but I got this one back up and running.

We were able to get the fan going like I said. It got them a little more life out of it. You guys got to see a different side of things. You got to see me interacting with one of my employees and um, you know, just getting the fan back up and running.

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and True Tech Tools has a lot of great stuff. A lot of the stuff that you see me using in my videos is usually from True Tech Tools, so check it out! I Really do appreciate you remember to be kind to one another. You just never know what the other person's going through, not just to find someone being a jerk I Say this all the time right? It's like on repeat the record thing. but I'm not justifying someone being a jerk I'm not saying that you should just let it go.

but just remember sometimes people make mistakes. They they don't act the way they should when they're going through a lot of crap. So just remember that Okay, have compassion for each other I Really do appreciate you and we will catch you on the next one. Okay,.