This video is brought to you by Sportlin Quality Integrity and tradition. We've got an older Greenheck makeup air unit here and the blower assembly has bad bearings, but the unit in general needs a complete rebuild so we're going to be going through that. Today we ordered a whole new blower assembly so we need to verify that it's correct and then this thing has evaporative cooling via cell deck media. We've got all new cell deck pads for it too, so we're going to get this thing torn apart.

We're going to verify everything's correct. Also, always do that whenever you're doing jobs. Always verify everything's correct before you completely disassemble things. So the first thing we're going to do is pull the blower cover measure, make sure the blower housing is correct.

We can proceed if that's good, and then we'll check the cell deck, media and all that stuff too. All right, We verified that the blower assembly everything looks to be correct on it. I'm more than likely going to have to replace the pulleys and the everything on that, but we'll want. We'll do that once we get in there.

and if I remember right, the motor is okay. Now this is a really old unit. uh Greenheck no longer makes this unit from what I'm told by the distributor. So we did pursue possible replacement of the unit.

but another thing we took into consideration is it's all the controls for all the exhaust fans are ran through this guy so they have a hood switch downstairs I Bet you it's 24 volt circuit I bet if it says it on here. yeah I don't know I'd have to look in there deeper but usually these are 24 volts. Um, so we did take into consideration and we did, you know, kind of pursue a whole unit replacement, but finding out that they don't make this exact unit anymore, the new unit, would you know, not couple directly up to it? We decided to go ahead and make a repair on it. So it's a pretty extensive repair, but you know that's where we're at and it looks like someone replaced this blower assembly in 2010.

I Believe this unit is from 2003 I Think is what it is. So first step, we're going to take the whole top off the unit so that way we can access the blower assembly and then we'll start pulling the whole thing apart. All right. we got the top off.

we kind of got this moved out of the way. It's not perfect, but we're not going to go and take every one of these screws out on the inside here so we can work with this Now we can get to the blower assembly and pull it. Another thing to note too, whenever you're working on makeup air units, this one's been down for like years. Long time.

Okay, it's going to be full of dust and you've got to be very careful turning these on so you can't just turn it on and think everything's okay because you'll literally fill that entire kitchen with dirt and ruin all their food. Ask me how I know? Um, so uh, we're gonna get this thing out and we'll vacuum everything as we go and then more than likely what you can do is you can send someone downstairs if you have to do a startup and slowly bump start it a little bit at a time. But in all reality, we're not going to get this thing running until like 12 o'clock in the afternoon. It's currently 8 30 in the morning, but it's going to take us a couple hours to pull the blower assembly, get pulleys because we don't have pulleys yet, and stuff rebuild it.

So realistically, we'll come back another morning as my thought, but we'll see how the day goes. All right. We got the cell deck media assembly. So this is the evaporative media pad.

So what happens is water runs across via a water pump and runs down this media pad and then air is drawn across it and it evaporates the water and that cools the air. Now it adds humidity to the building so you know these are only good for certain climates. It's not the greatest for this location, but this is what they have. so this is what we're fixing in a perfect world.

They have a DX condition 100 outside air unit because then they're actually putting you know not 100 humidity into the building kind of a thing. but whatever, you know, it's all good. So we're carefully disassembling this. We're going to clean everything out, and then we're going to thoroughly clean the inside of this unit.

We'll get vacuums. We're going to replace the water float the water pump. We're gonna go to town on this guy. So this guy right here has uh, bad bearing in here and it damaged the shaft too.

so it's just easier just to change the whole blower assembly. I Certainly could change a bearing, but you're going to pull the whole thing out to get to the bearing on the other side anyways. might as well just change the whole thing and be done with it. So we got that out and again, we're just, you know.

tear down. I'm gonna go get pulleys right now. Uh, water pump. All that good stuff.

If you guys haven't already, do me a favor. check out my website Hvacrvideos.com It's a great way to help support the channel and we have lots of available merchandise on there. Um, the one thing that I'm most proud of is my regular hat. All right.

this is the Hat I'm always wearing in my videos I Spent a bunch of time kind of trying to come up with this hat and working with the people that manufacture it. One of the biggest things about this hat is the black underbill because I wear my hats to work all the time and I was so sick of my fingers getting the underside of the Hat dirty and kind of ruining the hat right? The other thing, what you can't see right now is this hat is very breathable I can see light through the Hat it. It's not a trucker hat though, so it's not the mesh like a trucker hat. it's a normal Flex fit stretchy hat right? Another really important feature of the Hat was the Hvacr acronym.

Okay, I didn't want to put my logo on the hat per se. So I use my color scheme with my font style saying Hvacr in hopes that you guys can wear these hats to work and you know potentially not violate uniform policy and from what I hear. for the most part that is the truth. Most people wear these hats at work all the time and it really doesn't violate anything because it just says Hvacr Now we have This is the original design available on the website.

We also have a relaxed fit dad cap for the dudes that don't have the giant heads like me that have a shorter Dome My buddy Bill who is completely bald loves wearing this hat because he says that the other hats are too deep for his head. This one also black underbill. This is not the breathable material though. Okay, this is a standard hat, has the metal clasp in the back and then we also have the flat bill.

Okay, now again, the flat bill is not the breathable style. This is a normal hat, but it does have the black underbill has the flat bill. the Hvacr acronym. it is a snapback, but it is a flex fit.

Okay, so it does have stretch to it right here. So I Thought that was pretty unique. It's a flex fit. Snapback So we have these three hats available on the website.

We also have T-shirts sweatshirts, beanies, all kinds of good stuff. and that's Hvacrvideos.com This unit is a hot mess as far as electrical goes. Like there's a lot of parts and rewiring like the pump is wired to 208 but that's a 115 volt transformer that used to run 115 volt pump. Like there's a lot of stuff.

The disconnect switch is broken and kind of falling down. Yeah, like like that sucks. Wants to talk to them about that? That's not really part of our quote. Simply put a three-phase switch there.

but it, yeah, I should probably just put a three-phase switch there because it's not a break or anything. and it used to have the ability to turn it on and off on the outside, but all the pieces are missing for that. Has like a cover right there. Ah, fuses are taken out.

It's a mess. So oh, and you know what? I Think that this is A Is this a dual Transformer that does 120 and 24? I Think it is. Wait, really have to look at the schematic. That's weird.

but I'm just looking at their like because it says 24 volt secondary running through that fuse and then 120 volt secondary. but 10 amp fuse on a 24 volt secondary? That's a bit. High comes odd. Looks like this is their new 24 volt transformer and it is 24 volts running to everything else, but there's no circuit protection for that.

Transformer So that sucks. this whole thing's a dumpster fire. All right. Um, so yeah, I did.

look at the schematic. It is a 24 volt 120 volt transformer. So I disconnected the coil voltage because there was no power going to the motor starter for the makeup area unit. Okay, so that way I could turn on the disconnect switch and then confirm that we have 208 coming into the top and then this Transformer is 25 volts coming out the bottom and then 120 coming out the other.

So this is a 24 volt 120 step down from 208. Transformer Um I don't know why everything's disconnected. Someone previous to me actually I know who? that is someone a long time ago. Long story.

Um, before a person used to work for us like 15 years ago started his own company and uh I saw weird stuff like this when we took over these stores about five years ago. This is one that we never. There's still things we're finding that we're deciphering that we're a mess. Um, but yeah.

10 amp fuse for the 24 volt secondary though that 24 Volts literally just powers from here Powers uh, runs all the way downstairs through one of these conduits to a light switch, comes back up and turns on all the motor starters. There's no reason for a 10 amp fuse for that. That's insane I don't know what all I'm going to be changing here and fixing. We'll have to see this whole thing is just a giant dumpster fire.

Like I said earlier. But last but not least, I just needed to see if this blower works or the motor works. so one two three, my hand can stop shaking. Yep.

Motors working and it runs bearing sound. Okay, kind of maybe starting to wear out, but motor works so that's good. I just wanted to make sure before I got too crazy with this. so I'm gonna go ahead and shut this off that disconnect switch which is for the exhaust fan and I mean for the makeup area motor and I'm gonna proceed with getting pulleys and stuff and then I got someone else here my guy.

Robert over here is cleaning the unit you know, hosing everything off, making sure the spray rails are clean and then we're going to clean out the inside, replace the water float. Like I said, all that good stuff. So we got the blower assembly all vacuumed out or the blower area electrical section I Got to fix all the electrical stuff right now. Just about done cleaning this out I Just got back with all the parts that I needed.

pulleys, pump, water, float. all that good stuff. So I'm gonna get to uh working on this thing. Grab some penetrating oil I'm just using rust Buster because it's what I have in my van.

If you need to get heavy duty, you can get an aerosol can of it. but I just put it on all the spots where the pulley is going to come off. I just loosen the set screw on the back side. here.

there's a set screw right back there. There you go I loosened that up and then now I'm going to put the pulley puller on here I Just have to assemble it I keep it in that bag right there. Assemble it. We'll pull this guy off and then we'll start assembling everything.

We got to get the screws in this blower housing too. These pullers make it really nice. just Lube everything up. make sure all the set screws are loose, just wrenching on it.

If I wanted to be fast about it I'd go get my impact. but I don't need to strip anything out on this. So it's always best to use wrenches if possible because you can strip these uh threads out if it's too difficult with the impact. If you're gentle with it, you can do it, but almost there.

We're installing the cell deck media right now and when you install this, you got to install it in a Direction So that way the water falls back down into the unit. But we need to look because this piece right here is where our water hose or water distribution line comes out of. So this is actually going to sit in the unit like this. so we need all of these pieces to be directed this direction.

So that way the water takes the path and it doesn't drip down the front, it drips down the back and then they also have airflow requirements on there too. so look it says up. So we need to follow the instructions on that and they actually like I said have directional arrows right here that tells you which way but if you notice it goes the way that the water drains back into the unit so we're gonna get put those in. then.

we got this nozzle right here and we'll put it back on top and then hopefully be ready to push the media pad back into the unit. These units are not really thought out too well. as far as adjusting the tension on the belt and the pulleys and everything trying to line everything up. it's really difficult.

Like it's almost impossible if you're not taking the top off. So I have someone in there adjusting the other side. but I Went ahead and grabbed the laser alignment tool and we're able to use that to mark on each one of these where we're at so it's lined up pretty good. Tension is pretty good.

I've got this guy in there. I'm going to apply a little bit more tension with the wrench and then we're going to tighten these bolts down. right here. So far now, this alignment tool isn't my favorite because it uses the outside of the pulleys and the thickness might be different from pulley to pulley.

so ideally there'd be something in the middle too, like looking at the middle of the V but this is pretty darn close. So I Do have to admit this laser alignment tool is pretty nice when you're tightening these pulleys on. I suggest you pull the set screw and make sure that you can actually see that the set screw is sitting on the key and you notice that the old one was set back too far to where it wasn't actually even sitting on the key and the key was just holding it in. I Like to get it right on that key so I can see that the key is going through.

it's in enough. I Do prefer when the keys are a little bit longer, but it's all good. So I'm going to put the set screw in and tighten it down and then we got to tighten this uh taper bushing in before we put the uh media pad back in there. We're slowly filling this guy up to find and set the water level with the water flow because it is adjustable I Got a nicer water float that I mean you know, nice for what it is.

we're not going to spend a crap ton of money, but so we're going to fill it up with water from over there too. Get this sump full and then we're going to set up the pump. make sure it's working I did go with 115 volt pump and then hopefully we can use the bleed port and the bleed Port should be coming out of this top overflow one right here if it works properly. I Just got the top put on the unit.

um I'm wiring the temperature controller that I'm going to install. This temperature controller is going to control the pump so normally open and uh common and then the common is just tied into away go that's going to main power so 120 Powers this guy. then it jumps off this black wire goes to Common then comes out of normally open and it'll power the uh water pump all right. Got the cooling media in there I Went ahead and wired in a temperature controller right here.

Sensing bulb comes out here and just sits right there. We're going to set it for about 80 degrees. anything above 80 degrees turns on the water pump. the makeup air fan will run 24 7 for Air Balance reasons and that's a whole nother thing.

This thing's been down for a couple years. I'm gonna have to do a massive Air Balance on this building too, but we're going to get it running. Um I Wired the pump to 115 volts using this terminal block right here I Went ahead and put a new fuse just for the pump and the temperature controller. 10 amps.

grab the 120 volts from right there jumping over, coming down, going into the uh temperature controller coming out of the temperature controller on the green wire that's taped black, then it comes out of that goes over here. We're grounding the pump and we got a neutral right here. So um, this this panel is a mess. This damper is no longer being used I Really want to fix this I Want to change that disconnect switch but that's not part of this scope of work here.

Honestly I didn't know that disconnect switch was broken, but anyways, that's a whole nother problem for another day. Their exhaust system is running so I can't be doing a whole lot in here messing with things because I don't want to Jack things up so I still have the motor starter disconnected coil voltage right here so that way it doesn't turn on. So I'm going to go ahead and turn this on, make sure the temp control is working, and then make sure nothing crazy happens. So let's just hope nothing blows up.

So far, nothing. it's 88 degrees. Water pump just turned on. We got water trickling out.

That's one thing about these units is they leak. That's just how it is. So they leak water so we're gonna let that run for a bit. We're gonna set this guy.

it's currently at 88 degrees. Go ahead and set it for 80. I will say 75. with a five degree differential, That's fine.

Okay, um, push this thing as far that way as I Can these things just always leak? That's just how they are. So it's a bummer. but it is what it is. Um, okay.

so we're gonna put this panel on and then now we need to. Uh, go downstairs. We're gonna see if we can bump start this, but we got to do it slowly with someone downstairs making sure we're not blowing dust everywhere because we did a really good job cleaning the inside and stuff so it might not blow that much dust. And yeah, this thing is blowing dust like crazy downstairs so we can't start it up today.

We have to come on another morning. so I'm gonna go ahead and wrap it up. We're gonna put it back together, we're going to leave it off, and then we'll come back and start it up when it's not. Uh, when they don't got a bunch of food and they're not cooking in the kitchen.

It came in early this morning because we needed to bump this guy so the customer's aware that it's going to blow dust everywhere. Here we go, It's probably killing them right now. All right, cool. We're under current.

We're allowed to run 4.14.6 so that's good. I'm gonna bump it for a few more minutes. Go downstairs, see what it did. All right.

this guy is now running I Want to talk? or I am going to talk to the customer about changing that disconnect switch because I can still function it and actuate it. All Good. But I don't like that the housing is broken on it. But other than that, this makeup, air or evaporative cooler is now working.

We are bringing outside air through pre-filters then going through cell deck media that when the temperature controller sees temperatures above 75 degrees I set it to 75. Now it turns on a water pump that flows water over the cell deck media. Then the warm outside air evaporates that water. It cools the air and then tempers it and blows it down into the building to help.

Instead of blowing 110 degree makeup air into the building. now above 75 degrees, it's going to drop that temperature 15 degrees ish something in there. It's going to help a little bit. Okay, our next step, which will be another day that's not part of this project is we're going to come in and do a an Air Balance adjustment because this unit's been down for so long that the outside air dampers for the ACs have been opened up to compensate a little bit and we need to adjust that so that's it on this one and we will definitely catch you guys on the next one.

All right, this makeup air unit is there to make up for the air that the exhaust fan pulls out of the building. Okay, so you got multiple exhaust fans pulling out the unwanted Smoky hot greasy air. It's supposed to be filtering the grease through the grease filters and then the air just exhausts from the building. Well in doing that, we have to put air back into the building.

If you take a paper bag, you put it around your mouth and you inhale, the bag is going to collapse. But if you cut a hole the perfect size hole in the bag, when you inhale and you have it around your mouth, the air will pass right through. Same Theory as this makeup or unit, you have exhaust fans pulling air out. We have to put air back in the building if you don't What happens is it becomes very difficult to open open the doors because the exhaust fans are putting a negative air pressure on the building creating a suction that makes it difficult to open the doors.

Now that is the case of what was going on in this restaurant. This exhaust or this makeuper unit had been down for a couple years. like almost I think pre-coveted Uh, for whatever reason, it took him forever to approve it. but we finally got approval.

We got the unit back up and running. Now it certainly needs some more work. We need a disconnect switch on it the control section. There's something funky going on in the wiring I Was kind of looking at things like the motor starter didn't trip for one of them and like it's weird.

So we definitely have some more work to do, but this will help to cool off the cooks just a little bit in the kitchen. Now one thing that kind of drives me nuts is you know sometimes the kitchen staff will be like the air conditioner is not working. it's not an air conditioner. Okay, all we're doing is pre-cooling the makeup air as it's being blown back into the building right in front of the hood.

So that way it can be exhausted back out again too. But they will notice and they have noticed a pretty significant difference in their kitchen. Now another thing I mentioned in the video, it's so critical. if you have a makeup or unit that has been down for a very long time, do not just start it up.

Trust me, you will ruin all the food in their kitchen when it blows all that dirt back into the building. So always be cautious about that kind of stuff. I Plan to come back the next day And we did and everything was all back up and running like it should be. All right.

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