All right. so we're here today talking about the White Rogers Heat Pump Defrost Control the 47d01u-843 This is a single stage Universal Heat Pump Defrost control. It can either do time and temperature defrost which is actually what this pain slash carrier system comes with or it can do demand defrost which is actually what you probably are going to set it up for most often and we'll talk about that. Thank you! One really nice thing about this Defrost board is it comes with some additional features that you're not going to have in a lot of the factory OEM Boards: One of them is the outdoor temperature lockout thermostat that's built right into it.

It uses the outdoor temperature thermistor and so it actually can measure the outdoor temperature and you can use that to lock it out like is required by code in a lot of places. It also has a really nice LED display on it so that you can actually see what's going on and set it up more easily as well as fault codes. And it comes with both of the sensors. So if you are in an application where you know, maybe you want to replace the board, but you also see that maybe the sensor wires are damaged, you can go ahead and replace those sensors as well.

It comes with two standard 10K sensors, one for your outdoor air and one for your coil temperature. It has built-in time delay. It has built-in Brown out protection which is really great if your voltage drops below safe levels so the compressor to operate. It can also lock out the equipment.

It has error code recall so you can see what the recent error codes have been and then it just operates for a really wide range of different controls like I've already mentioned. which means that you can put one one control on a truck and serve a wide range. And at the end of the day, you can actually get better Defrost operation than the OEM gave you. And you know that it's going to be great because it's actually made by a company that not only provides sports for Oems, but has engineered something that's going to actually extend that operation.

So in this video, Bert's going to actually go through the installation kind of. Step By Step we're going to film it and kind of talk through it. I would also encourage you to go back and view our video where we talk about defrost specifically and how to troubleshoot it. A lot of this might make more sense as we go through it, but we're going to go through all the features of this board once we get it installed and wired up.

Sounds great. Let's do this. Let's do it. Okay, yeah, so first off, there's a cross reference chart on the back here that you can.

actually. if you're worried if your application doesn't match this board, you can actually look and make sure that the model number on your board lines up with this and you know that you will have it's You can install it in that piece of in that system. So obviously if you have fully communicating systems multi-stage equipment that you know that that's a different scenario. But so we're going to demonstrate it on here.

Our carrier defrost board is a very common board design and we're actually using the time and temperature. We're actually using the time and temperature set up. Here you have a thermostat that closes and then the built-in time delay in the board and that's what this comes with from the the manufacturer. So we're going to replace that board with this control and I'll show you how to do that.

So here's our board and so first of all, our thermostat wiring is going to plug in. We have a little plug that comes with that and then our thermostat wiring and controls are going to come in and and wire nut onto this and then here at the top of the board. here's our plug for our contactor. we have CC for our contactor, we have RVs for our reversing valve, low pressure, high pressure switches.

They're going to plug into that and and then on Here we have our fan relay. So this is what will open during the defrost cycle. It's the normally closed switched so there you have it. and then here's our digital display.

We'll show that when we're programming the board digital display right here. so okay. and then our sensors on the board. so our sensors plug in right here.

We have our outdoor sensor and a coil sensor. It plugs in down here on the bottom and then easy to mount screws. You actually comes with self-tapping screws that you can just put this board any orientation that you need to make it fit. First all with off we need to make sure that our power is turned off to our system.

Don't be the person that just turns off your high voltage out here. All of your control wire is also in the indoor so both Breakers need to be turned off. I Would recommend at this point taking a picture of the layout that you have so that you can remember where things were plugged in and what they were labeled. They also outlines that in the instructions.

I'm going to go ahead and unplug. Uh, this sensor right here that I'm unplugging is actually going to be obsolete. So this is your thermostat switch that opens and closes with the new board. You have your outdoor sensor, You have your coil sensor that is actually going to be replace this functional together so you're no longer using that thermostat open, close switch.

You're using the temperature sensors that actually come with the new board. Yeah, in this case, we're just going to leave it in place because this is a training unit so we're not going to completely disable it. But but you in real life you would normally just pull that whole thing out. eliminate it in the board.

We have our little quarter self-tapping screws, so let me get those out for securing our board. It comes with some wire nuts and also some zip ties for keeping our wires cleaned up and tucked out of the way. Change the board orientation for whatever will be easiest for hooking your wires to it. Whatever makes it close closest to where everything hooks up the digital display.

Later in the programming, you can actually switch the orientation, so if your boards like this, then we'll still be able to read our codes accurately. We'll just switch the digital orientation, but this setup right here will work great. cure the board. Obviously worth mentioning.

Whenever you're drilling new holes, always make sure that there's no tubing behind it and in this case, there's not all right. So we're going to cut this wiring and we're going to go ahead and plug back in wiring that in place here. Now these are labeled. If you do have any confusion, you take your picture or you can use the labeling.

It actually comes in the Box for any of your wires in here that you have confusion on what they're going to be. Go ahead and label them before you start unplugging. Okay, so top on this list Here we have y. Let's go ahead and hook our Y to our thermostat y Oh I Guess we have our O or O slash B and when we're programming the board, we'll want our O slash B to be programmed to match our equipment.

That way the board can know whether we're in heat or cool mode. Okay, so I left the auxiliary to hook up last. Uh, just to talk talk about the possible feature and why we have an extra wire here. So this board has a function built into it that if you want to not allow the thermostat to call auxiliary Heat Um, if the outdoor temperature is above a certain point.

so let's say our outdoor temperature was above 50 degrees and we just didn't want back up heat running in that scenario, you can break it through this defrost board right here so you would have. If you have an extra wire available you would have your thermostat that's powering auxiliary coming in on the brown one here which is W-i-n and then if the board is allowing that call back out then it'll come out to our actual equipment on white which then goes to our auxiliary relay. If you're not going to use that feature then the one that you you want to use is the Wdx2 terminal the white one. So a lot of thermostats have that built in now like that that feature built in, they'll not actually bring on auxiliary or you can use the board if your thermostat doesn't have that function power saving function.

All right a low voltage is hooked up. Now let's actually hook up our safeties and um, the contactor and reversing valve to our defrost board. So this is the other plug that they provided and I'm going to use wire nuts on these connections as well. So this plug on our old board.

we had our contactor being energized here so we have T1 and C and if you look at the installation manual beautiful wire diagram showing where each of these wires and safeties go and where to hook them up to on the board. You can also just follow the wires back and see what they're hooked up to. We have comment on our side of the contactor and yellow on the other side right now. I have my reversing valve so I'm hooking it onto the board at RVs reversing valve terminal so that will supply common to one side of that reversing valve in 24 volts to the other in cool mode.

Next I have the two wires that are going to our contactor. so this will be what actually pulls in our contactor so that's going to connect up here to CC Okay the next thing we have in our circuit here that we have a loss of charge pressure switch. it's going to hook up to our low pressure switches if our if we get really low on refrigerant the switch will open and not allow the contactor to pull in to be energized. Yeah and it's worth noting this is those are really common when heat pumps because in a heat pump, the pressure on the low side actually gets really low in low ambient conditions.

So yeah, so you don't always have a low pressure switch right on your suction line on a heat pump and in this particular model does not have a high pressure switch and so I just have these capped off and we will actually talk about programming the board to recognize that there's no high pressure switch hooked up or you could just wire nut them together. Okay, so then we have our fan relay. So our fan relay needs to be energized constantly with our high voltage a common no on our normally open, it wouldn't matter. Okay, so we need to energize our relay with one side of power here and then the fan hooks up to the other side and this relay has the ability to open the voltage coming through here to open it up during defrost.

but the switch is normally closed unless we're in defrost cycle and then this is what's not used. I'm just going to tuck it out of the way here. it's our Defrost thermostat that's not being used because we now have what we're hooking up next: our outdoor and coil sensors. All right.

So the coil sensor has a little clip to actually clip right onto that coil and the plugs are not not identical so you don't get confused about where you're putting them. So let's go ahead and take our outdoor temperature sensor. We're going to just fish it through our Grommet and I Want this over in a location where it's not going to be hit by direct sunlight still in the air. All right.

The coil Sensor: We're going to fish it to the inside of the condenser we're just going to clip onto on our coils. Okay, so you can take the top off and go down there. Hit first. or you can open this side panel.

make it a little easier for yourself. Right Here is where we have our thermostat. So I'm going to go ahead and just unclip it and we'll put the new one on here in the same place there we go. Boom Coil Sensor: Let's go ahead and tank put it down out of the sun.

Yep, it's as simple as that. Okay, now we have our board fully wired in. There's a couple of zip ties that come with the kit. We can kind of clean up these wires a little bit.

I Think how beautiful that is. Okay, we're ready to go ahead and turn on our low voltage control Power which would be the power from our air handler. Oh yes, the built-in safeties. First off, it's flashing H Which means that it's in heat.

It's calling for heat flashing because it's in time delay. So I'm going to go straight into our thermostat setup. First thing we want to do is cancel any call for heating and cooling. Our board will give a nice little smiley face display.

Let's go into the setup mode. Okay, so uh, do that is just your orientation your next option ER That would be any current errors if you want to see if there's a current error on the board. FR that's previous errors. so fault recall.

That's what FR stands for. Okay, so our OE option here is where we can quickly set up our board to match whatever the manufacturer defrost cycle was for this. so ours was a carrier setup and so in the manual here: I have one as my carrier one so that would be carrier. two is good, men three is Linux four is train five, ream six York seven Nordane and then we have eight.

Number eight is your factory default and it's going to it's the Emerson factory default. Basically all the features that make the most efficient. Uh, Defrost. So on your defrost type, it's demand and so it's using the coil sensors measuring between Outdoors temperature and actual coil sensor to know if there's too much of a range there.

We need to actually go into Defrost a Defrost cycle time. We don't actually have it. Need a defrost cycle time on this one because it is demand Your short cycle time delay. You have five minute short cycle time delay built in there.

If something happens to power, we're not going to be chattering our contactor and damaging our compressor reversing valve power. We have o so the factory default is o That's energized in Cooling You could set it to a number five, which would be your ream if you want to do energized in Heating. So if you do have Rheem equipment, you need to actually change that setting. We have our reversing valve shift DeLay So This comes with a 30 second shift delay that shuts off.

When we go into Defrost, it shuts off the compressor and then after 30 seconds, it switches the reversing valve that way you're not actually running the compressor during the time that the reversing valve switches and it's a little less noisy can be sometimes upsetting for customers when they hear that much noise happen. Then you have your max defrost time is 14 minutes. so it's never going to exceed a 14 minute defrost cycle and it'll be much shorter than that as demand calls for. If it's if it's frosted defrosted before that, it'll come out of out of defrost and then your temperature that it has to have the coil temperature go below 35 degrees in this setting before it will actually even energize defrost.

So if you're not below 35 degrees and you still have that temperature swing between your outdoor and coil temperature, it's not going to engage. so you're coil does have to be below 35 degrees, which is great. We don't want to be defrosting a coil that's above 35 because it doesn't have any ice on it and then your defrost terminate coil temperature. So once it's gone into defrost, if that coil gets all the way up to 70 degrees, it's pretty confident there's no ice anywhere in there and it's going to come out of defrost and go back into heating.

So that's your factory default and that really covers all the basis of your other manufacturers. As you can see, a lot of these are overlapping with the manufacturers like Linux and Trane and Rheem have on demand. Um, there's a couple features that are different obviously with your defrost time set up like this one was the carrier, but these features just add a more efficient defrost cycle to the system so that the feature changes help improve the efficiency of the system when you can, when you actually can do on-demand Defrost. So we're just going to talk about each of the options in our setup menu.

So we've talked about ER as the air FR is the recall and then OE would be our quick setup and then if you go past that, we can start to customize actually each of our defrost options. so the first one is defrost type we can do on Demand versus um, the time temperature defrost so on demand is going to be more efficient. we're going to keep the on demand and then we have enable temperature. so this is where you can set the actual temperature that the defrost is not going to go into defrost unless it's below this temperature on the coil.

So we talked about already. The factory default was 35 degrees. You could change that in right here if you wanted to and then TT termination temperature. So this is, uh, the temperature that the coil needs to get to after it's been a defrost in order to shut off.

The default was 70. you could have it terminate differently if you wanted to customize the options here. And then we have our SS This is our short cycle time. so you can change that from five minutes, zero Three minutes.

Those are your options. Obviously, five is your safest. and then we have reversing valve power and that can switch between O and B. So depending upon your reversing valve energized and cooling or heating that would be o or B then we have SD And that's reversing valve shift delay.

And so this is basically how long the compressor is off when it does the shift delay. during shift delay, it doesn't actually keep it's five minute anti-short cycle. So it overrides the five minute anti-short cycle. So however long you set the shift to delay, for which we have 30 seconds, 12 seconds, or zero seconds on your shift delay.

All right, DT is our maximum defrost time. The default was 14 minutes. We can lower that to 10 or 8.. So in a climate like we have, we could bring that even to lower than 14.

but of course on demand. Once that coil gets a certain temperature, it's going to come out of defrost anyway. So HL is our auxiliary heat lock out. So that's where we have that extra wire here that I have the wire nut on w-i-n-w-d You could run auxiliary from the thermostat through that and lock it out.

That would be where to enable that feature. Then we have our LT low temperature compressor cut out and this will be outdoor temperature where we don't allow our system to run if it's below a certain temperature. So we have -10 all the way to it. Looks like minus 25 here.

Okay, our RTS are random start delay so that if you had multiple systems with this same brownout protection, you could change the the startup time after a brown out so you don't have all of your equipment starting at once in a big power surge. Our low pressure switch on off. We do have a low pressure switch so we want that on. We actually don't have a high pressure switch so I'm going to switch that to off here and then our Brown out protection on off.

so you have the option of actually turning off your brown out protection. That's just a quick overview of our custom options. They have descriptions in the manual about what each of these do and how to use them. Our Defrost board is ready for action in the field.

It also has air codes that can pop up and display on here and you can see the installation instructions for what those are. But what we'll go ahead to do is just test operation. Make sure we can actually shift into Defrost and I'll show you how to do that. If you have a system that's actually freezing over, ice is building up.

uh, Defrost mode, Something's not quite working right. With that, what you want to do is do this test to make sure the board will actually run through the Defrost cycle and then you want to check your sensors. So your outdoor sensor and your coil sensor are both a 10K sensor. You can look up a chart and actually own those out and make sure that the sensors are reading the way that they should.

That's typically going to be where your problem is. There's an issue with the sensor. Always do your visual check first though. you could have had something chew through the wires.

Something could have rubbed out on one of these sensor wires to do your visual check to make sure that connections are tight. Uh, the wires are in good shape. We don't have rub outs or something like that going on. Same thing applies for a board power coming in and all of our our wire connections.

So if you're having an issue always do the Practical stuff first. Visual check all that. but uh, why don't I go ahead and turn this on in heat mode and we'll show you the Defrost cycle. Okay, so we're getting our call for heat and we're flashing time delay.

Uh, you hold both buttons down for a second and we can bypass that. T is for test and now we're running in heat. So in heat mode. we don't have a call in our reversing valve for this manufacturer for carrier that we're working on.

So we're running in heat mode and uh, it's still going through the safeties and coming back to the board to make sure those are all closed. And then we are reading our outdoor temperature and our coil temperature that's down inside there on the coil to find out if we have Frost buildup. and we need to go into defrost mode. So I'm going to go ahead and force the defrost for testing.

You push. Once it's running, you push both buttons down again for one second and that'll force it into a defrost mode. So what happens right away? the reversing valve switches. It's going to turn off for just a second and so now we have we.

We actually have an energized reversing valve. It's ready to come on in cool mode and pump that hot discharge gas through this coil. Defrosting any of that. So what I've done is I've disconnected the fan and it's running In heat mode right now and this is going to let our coil temperature drop to below freezing so we don't have warm air being pulled across the coil and we're going to get that coil sensor to where it's actually really cold.

There's Frost buildup around where the sensor is and then I will Engage The Defrost. So we do have a sticker with the information of our Defrost board and the error codes. If there's room, we'll slide that right in like there's room here or you can put it on the inside of your panel. But now any technician who follow those has are error codes for our Defrost Board setup table and error codes.

How convenient for anybody coming back that wants to make a quick adjustment. All right? So now I'm going to go ahead and engage our Defrost test. So first, the reversing valve has switched over and um, now it's being energized so that the hot discharge gas will start circulating through this coil and defrosting the frost that has built up on it. So now we're actually running and defrost.

Uh, the system is running in cool mode and our fan is not running so we're not pulling cold air across this coil. We have a hot discharge gas circulating through these coils and once that sensor reaches the temperature where it's heated up enough, it knows there's no more ice on there. It will come out of our defrost mode. so this is how you can actually test it to make sure it's it's working properly.

So there's your heat pump Defrost control from White Rogers There's the installation. Pretty simple and this is something you can actually have on your truck and stock for any single stage equipment defrost setup out there. You can put this in there. thanks for watching our video if you enjoyed it and got something out of it.

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