Hey I'm Brian with hvac school and I'm Sal with products by pros from products by pros comm and your from products by pros.com. Actually you came from the internet wow. That's an amazing town make it Ralph breaks. The Internet.

Sal has a lot of talents so today we're talking about the alloy braze rod from solder weld and we're gon na talk about how it's a little different than alloy saw, and then we're also gon na show where you might want to use it at some specific Applications now, Ali braze, that is different from LA saw how okay so alloy saw, is really designed for patching aluminum and a low temperature range, which is very practical in the field when we're working with really thin aluminum. It comes with a external flux which allows you to use as much flux as you need, which is great for dirty conditions, those sorts of things and it's my preferable product for those types of applications. You have to use an external flux for the LA bridge, an alloy braze. The flux is internal to the rod and it is properly measured for the amount of rod that you have, but you don't have excess flux.

So if you need more flux because you're working with dirty metal or if you maybe you did it the first time and you didn't quite get it right and you need more flux, then you would have to use the flux that comes with alloy Saul. To add a little bit more in order to finish the job, but the particular application for alloy braze is gon na, be when you're working with thicker aluminum, and you want a really strong surface bond. Specifically, let's say if you were working with a aluminum mount or something for a refrigeration condenser is some aluminum channel or framing that you wanted to join together. This really gives you a joint.

That's it's it's at the same scale as an aluminum weld. You know if you were doing aluminum welding, let's say a TIG weld or something like that. Of course that's gon na be, you know the best way, but for us in the field we don't typically have that equipment, and so, if you need to bond together an aluminum frame or make a repair to thicker, aluminum, then alloy brace is what you want to Use now is it similar to other flux-cored rods out there. Basically, if I see another flux, cored rod on the shelf, could I use this instead of that you can it's it's a slightly different product, so it's not really designed to flow into the joint as much as some of the other products that you've seen.

It is more like almost like a weld, and so it makes a very, very strong bond, which is great, for you know if you are making a butt joint or something or if you're, connecting some some, maybe some square channel together or some L channel or something Like that, it's going to be much better option for that type of application. If you're fitting tubing into tubing, then a more traditional flowing solder works, great and actually alcot braze by solder. Weld is a great option for that. This is a little different.

It uses a similar technique to alloy saw where you kind of apply the heat straight to it, you're not so much working around it like you, do with other Sauter's you're, really kind of applying the heat straight to it and you're just sort of flattening that rod Into the surface and it makes a really strong edge bond, but you do have to take into consideration the melting temperature of you. Do you do, and you know, obviously you know aluminum is generally gon na, be you know, or just over 1,200 degrees is where aluminum starts to melt this, the working temperature? This is a thousand eleven hundred degrees in that range, which means that you've really got a watch where you're applying your heat. You want to put your heat right on where you want to melt the rod and you want to work it in as you go. It's more it's it's much more similar to a welding technique.

If you've ever done, oxy acetylene welding, maybe you've done stick welding, it's more similar to that, where you're working, where you're working and you're kind of working down the line, rather than with solder, where we heat up the entire material. And then we draw it into the joint, so it has a very specific advantage in that it gives you a really strong weld like bond. It's very, very strong. The downside is, is that you've got to be really careful with your heat, that's with alloy braze, but that way saw that's a lower temperature rod.

It's gon na be a similar technique to what we use with alloy braze, but that's really the best product out there for patching aluminum coils. So in summary, working with thicker metal need to make a really strong bond and maybe you're not fitting joints into joints. Alloy brace is the way to go if you're working with patching a coil where the aluminum is thin or maybe a u-bend or something then alloy saw is the only product I would use alright. So now, let's do a demonstration.

So, to start we're going to heat up the base material, the flux will will come out of the rod. It will coat the coat the surface and then I'm going to just make basically a butt weld or a butt solder joint here too, and then we're gon na use the leverage of these plates and pull it apart after thermal cycling and see what we get. I'm trying to draw it into the joint it looks like it's drawn in there all right, so I applied a pretty ridiculous amount of material in that just to try to draw as much in as I possibly could to the inside of this. So I'm gon na.

Let it sit a little bit and then I'm in a thermal cycle it which again for the strongest joints, you wouldn't thermal cycle, but we're trying to demonstrate the thermal cycling that we're going to see in a system as you change from higher temperature to lower temperature. So we're gon na let this sit for you know two minutes or so then I'm in a thermal cycle it into this bucket of water and we'll see how it holds up. So you could hear that was very, very hot. When I don't did again, it's better to better to wait for it to cool down, but we know practically in the field.

A lot of technicians are gon na rush it. So now I'm gon na go ahead and test. This show you how strong it is. You can see that, even though, with this product, I don't pull as much into the joint.

It's not like. I've pulled a lot of solder in just the just. The butt connection on that solder is extremely strong, with alloy braze and again. I would use this specifically when you're working with thicker plate aluminum, not necessarily when patching a coil for that application.

I would definitely use alloys all so. This demonstration has been about how to use the alloy braze product to work with thicker aluminum in order to get a really really strong, almost weld like bond, i'm brian with hvac school and i'm sal with products by pro's. Thanks for watching you.