Today we have a complaint of a watch water leak. Coming from this evaporator coil, I will tell you that I've already got a drain, pan ordered for this, but in the meantime they say that in the morning they're getting a ton of water. So I have a hunch that this thing has a restriction in the drain line, so we're gon na clear that, but it's not just that simple. Okay, I'm gon na tell you guys something right now.

You do not, in my opinion, ever want to use co2 or nitrogen to clear drain lines. Okay, because most of the time, it's not gon na solve your problem. This drain line is three quarters of an inch thick if it has a slight obstruction in it. Let's just say, part of the line is filled up with gunk the co2 or the nitrogen is going to go around that.

The perfect solution for this is to use hot water, because hot water is gon na, fill the entire tube and push everything equally out. Okay: here's an example that I pulled off the internet of a drain line that is restricted. You know partially, so potentially, nitrogen or co2 could go around that restriction, which more than likely in this image is what this looks like. But let me make this clear: this is not what happened.

This is not my drain line. This was just a stock image. I pulled off the internet now. I don't really like this idea, but they also have a p-trap in here and then they make it.

Even worse, they're going in to the walk-in freezer and then the drain line, I believe, is leaving out of the walk-in freezer. So it's tied into the drain line for the freezer, which is not a good idea. So there's my drain line right there and it's probably coming down the wall somewhere yeah. Let's say right here: so it's connecting going down the wall and leaving right there.

So these make it very difficult to unplug this drain because it could back up into the freezer. Also so when I try to blow it, I might blow the water into the freezer, which is kind of a pain in the butt, so nonetheless, we're gon na get this thing blown out and we're gon na verify that it's not a plugged up drain line. Okay, the first thing I want to point out to the reason why I have this drain: pan ordered: do you guys can see these little dimples right here and your finger can get caught on them? Those are actually the drain pan rodney now and if I took something sharp, it would poke right through those, so you usually tend to notice them right around here and you notice. Someone has silicone on there because it was leaking out of there.

It's all corroded okay, but when you see these little dimples right here and it's like, like the metals pushing out if you go on the other side, you'll notice that it's like corroding, the aluminum on the inside of it poking out. So you don't ever want to poke them, because if you poke them, then they'll start leaking, but we've already got this drink and ordered it's just gon na be a couple weeks, because it's an old drain, pan things from 2006, so they have to custom-make it. That's where we're at so we're gon na blow this thing. So, as I've told you guys, before taking my water hose always being conscious to the customer running it in the fashion that it's not going to be in the way as much as possible and putting a drip loop in the mop sink.

So that way, if this leaks - which they always do, it doesn't run down it'll trail under the floor and make a mess. Now it's going to drip into the mop soon. So, to start what I did you got to get smart with some of this stuff, so I already had a union here, so I undid the Union and I welded on a one inch coupler, okay, because this hose fitting will fit right into there, nice and snug, And I can tape it up with some electrical tape and then be able to pressurize the line really well make sure I clear it all out completely again paying attention once I pressurize this, I got to make sure it doesn't start coming out the walk-in freezer and All that good stuff, but this way I can slowly turn the hose bib on and just let it push and then I can go out and look at the drain and see what's coming out. Okay, so I made up this rig, so I can put it on here: it's not perfect, but it lets you apply pressure and you can even tape your handle shut, let it go and then what I did was I went into the walk-in freezer and actually put It into a defrost, but I use the other end of that Union and I welded a cap on it.

So that way, I don't have water pouring out of here when I'm blowing out of that, and then I can reverse it and do the others think the same thing on this side flow this way, vice versa, see where I'm going with that and that's what we Want to see when we've got absolutely properly, okay, so nothing too complicated. I mean we're just blowing out a walk-in dream, but you always have to look. You know, like I would say at the big picture: okay, you've got to evaporator coils, it's not the greatest idea, but they have them connected together. Okay, so one drain line is piped in with the other drain line.

So if you blow one out you're gon na blow the water potentially into the other one or the obstruction, so you guys saw how I took the Union out of my van, I had an extra Union and I took the pieces off and I made a cap For one in so I could blow the drain from one side. Then I applied that cap to the other and and blew the drain from the other side, both times making sure that I was getting full flow out of the drain line down at the floor. Sink now this instance, what I ended up finding was that the drain line actually going to the first coil that I showed you guys was not pitched correctly okay, so I ended up shortening the drain line and pitching it properly and more than likely. That was the cause of the leak.

The pitch issue happened because the drain pan is old and it flexes so it actually. If you can picture this, someone tugged on it and it flexed and kind of stuck in that position. So it was, you know, pitched in the wrong directions, so I shortened up the drain line and made sure that it was pitched correctly after I got done here and other than that. Everything else was good.

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