All right, so today's call is on a walk-in cooler that was tempered at 50 degrees, and I got here. The manager brought me in the walk-in and said that he came up to this thermostat and he thinks it was set at 50 degrees and he adjusted it down to 40 and it's maintaining set down. He said he thinks someone turned it on estilo and I don't think they turned it. I think that you can see it's been hit, so that bulb shouldn't be loose like that, and I honestly think that this thing has been getting hit by boxes.

I just moved all the product. It was full of boxes right here, so we're gon na look into that and then we're also gon na look at the big picture and evaluate the rest of the system. The evaporator coil is actually pretty clean. It's not ice up.

I haven't gone onto the roof, yet we're gon na put some probes on it and go check everything out on the roof. This is an old r22 system. That holds my mind. It's still running shows you how good the equipment was made back then and the coil looks deteriorated, but I don't have asleep in a novel.

My daughter, it looks like it's been riding on these old systems. You're lucky. If we got a super deport, this one doesn't have one upstairs and get a temperature clamp down here. Everything looks pretty decent in here right.

I will say that I've got my thermometer and it still is running a little bit high like for about 44 degrees. Right now, love to jump up there and see. What's going on, I went over here to this temperature controller. Remember the manager said he turned in and came down a temperature in a wallet.

It's currently 45 degrees in this box and this controls. Turning on and off this controls going back and like I said this, doesn't this is good indication this thing's just be getting beat up, so we're still gon na go on the roof and check everything, but I bet you anything. This is the only cause. I believe we have a control.

That's been going. Bad Cyclops is running clear, put my gates on anyways, looking good funny how those old equipment can last I'm still running a little hard away, so the refrigerant pressures are looking decent in the Box. Temp is decent, so at this point I'm gon na go ahead and replace that temperature controller foot trying to relocate it to a better place. Cuz.

I think that's all that's wrong with it so check this out. I decided to go with the mechanical control. Okay, just because it'is an insulation - and I didn't have any s - J, cord and anyways - but I'm mounting the sensing - bulb up in a place by the drain line where they can't stock food to beat the out of it and there's no more coil blow-up. On top for them to beat up - and I'm not gon na - put a knob in here, okay, but I was just getting finished, putting the cover back on and I went to go, adjust the temperature and I couldn't turn the temperature.

It won't go past this. This point right here: it's like getting stuck okay, so here's the deal. This thing has got this little adjustment doohickey right there, where that screw, that you can adjust out and you can stop the temp if you like, you can max it out right, but that's not the case. Okay.

This is just one of those things. I want to point out just because you put something in there and it don't turn don't just force it. Cuz you're gon na break something okay notice. Something look at look at my electrical wire on that top terminal, one closest to the dial see how it moves when I cuz this is rigid wire, solid strand or solid wire.

It's heating, the dial, okay, so I'm not gon na go. I got ta. Go fix that wire adjust it, but I'm just pointing out the fact that don't just go in there and start jerking on things. Okay, like I turned it, it didn't turn and I stopped what's wrong.

I looked into it. I didn't just jam the thing down cuz. I could have been an electrical short okay, so I loosened up the wire and that's why you're seeing the wire move. I just wanted to prove that that's what it is.

So I'm going to move that wire and fix it and then finish up and if you didn't already know I've stripped my wire okay see those little holes on your wire strippers. Those are for curling wires in case you didn't know, get that perfect electricians curl on it. So the more you know do another one. Most of you guys probably know this, but for those that don't get yourself a little bit of wire sticking through there, don't really work with solid strand or solid wire anymore, but not as much but that'll work perfect.

Now we can adjust it. We need so we're good alright, so we are currently at 39 degrees. I'm going to show you guys how to set these controls. If you don't want to wait for it to come down to 10, what you do is listen for where it clicks just listen.

This thing works: you always have to check these things because they're never completely accurate, so this one's turning on and off what looks like about 32 degrees on the dial of the temperature controller, so we have to set it recording so about 35 to maintain about 39 Degrees in the box, it's about perfect, I'm gon na turn it just a hair lower than 35, and now we were gon na maintain 39. I have to be cautious. You know I didn't know what you're working on, because this system does not have a defrost clock. So the customer is pretty good about keeping their doors shut, so they'd rather go without a defrost block unless they have to yourself pay attention to that.

So if you look at it right now what you got to be cautious about, but we don't have a pressure probe book, but my suction pressure is below freezing right now, more than likely, so you got to be cautious about that setting a to hold. So we want to make sure we just basically set it for about 39 degrees is what we want we'll try it again, basically, listen where it turns on and on that, when the higher temperature is going to be, your setpoint turns on their turns off there, and It's 39 degrees in the box. Oh that's right where I wanted to turn on at was 39 degrees. Go tell the customer to keep an eye on it, so it's set for about 35 degrees on the dial of the temperature control.

Okay, so nothing too difficult. This was just a service call on a walking cooler that wasn't working properly. When I arrived, I found that the thermostat had been kind of beaten up and it was not reading. It was way out of calibration.

I should say so. I went ahead and replaced the thermostat went ahead and put my service gauges on the unit. Everything looked good, you know it was run in a clear sight. Glass.

I don't know if you guys noticed in the video. This is an old system and it still has a flared TXV, not a fan of the flared tee xv's, because I tend to see a lot of people don't understand how to tighten down a flare and how to properly torque it. It's kind of a new trend to be using the torque wrenches, which I think are a good thing, but you know the old school way of tightening down a flare. You just kind of had to know when it was tight enough.

If, if you didn't have access to a torque wrench and a lot of people over tighten the flares and then what happens is when you over tighten the flare, it'll, actually back itself off when you leave and then it creates leaks and then it just kind of Wreaks havoc, so my personal opinion is, is I really don't use flares on the evaporator sections, I'll use a flare up on the roof for the the dryer and the sight glass, because those ones don't tend to have as much expansion and contraction because of the cold Temperatures down in the evaporator versus the the warm temperatures up on the roof, so I will use them on the roof, but just not usually downstairs, and it's not that I can't adjust a flare to the right torque setting. But it's just that when we put them down in the evaporators, we get other people working on them and they tend to just be a problem and create more problems. So my experience is, is that I don't like to use them because of the lack of skill when it comes to tightening down on flares and knowing it's one of those things where you've just done it enough that you know what the tightness is supposed to be. Anyways, I digress so replace the temperature controller.

I thought about going with a digital control, but because of ease of installation - and I didn't have any s J cord - I went ahead and went back in with a mechanical. I got rid of the coil bulb. Put a remote bulb, put it into a place where it can't get beat up, took the knob off of the temperature controller and everything else checked out. Okay, all right! I really appreciate you guys taking the time to watch my video, please consider subscribing to my channel and also check out the other channels that are popping up right now, other than that, I will see you guys on the next one: okay,.

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