All right so today we are gon na be going over how to calculate the flooded charge of a condensing unit that has a head pressure control valve on it. We are gon na be basically following the instructions and the spoil in 90-30, one document verbatim pretty much. Okay, you get this document from spore lens website. I'll also have a link in the show notes of the video you guys can go and get it yourself.

Okay, so I basically highlighted a few things and just a reiterate: this is the spore'ln document - 90-30, one. Okay, so I highlighted a few things inside this document that I basic instructions that we're gon na follow. Okay number one we're dealing with a completely flooded, condenser, okay and then you're, just gon na follow the instructions from that point all right. So it's gon na tell you to get the length of tubing the return bends and the condenser.

You need to know the minimum ambient temperature what the system is going to operate. Okay, that's gon na affect the density factor of the refrigerant. We also need to know the tubing size and wall thickness and the refrigerant type. Okay and then you're, just gon na follow these instructions, and it gives you an example with some demo numbers.

So that way, you can do the math with yours and with these demo numbers and see if you can come up with the same example: okay, so we're going to go through that right now when it comes to needing the the density factor of the refrigerant okay, What you're gon na do is you're gon na find on the next chart over you're gon na find the minimum ambient temperature this. For our example, the system that I was working on was in Irvine, California, so the absolute extreme lowest temperature we're gon na get in Irvine. California is 20 degrees, okay, and that number is gon na. You just basically follow it over to determine your density factor of your refrigerant, okay and we are using our 22 refrigerant.

So the density factor of our refrigerant is point of our ya. Is point zero, five, two okay and then you also need to find the total equivalent length of the refrigerant tubing. So in our video, like I show you, we have 3/8 tubing, so we follow the chart down and you basically find out that for 3/8 tubing, the total equivalent length is point two zero zero. So with that being said, we're going to with the video - and hopefully this makes sense for you guys, okay, so we're gon na measure, the flat of the condenser run okay, so they come on over and that's 30 and a half.

So thirty point five we'll take that number and then we're gon na count how many straight pieces of pipe there is, and also how many return bends there. Okay. So now we're gon na count the pieces of straight pipe one. Two, three, four: five: six, seven, eight! Nine 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, so there's 36 pieces of straight pipe and it's 3/8 inch in diameter.

So now that we have that number, we can also count our return bends so return bends. We're gon na go ahead and count this as 1. 2. 3.

4. 5. 6. 7.

8. 9. 10. 11.

12. 13. 14. 15.

16. Sixteen returned Vince, then we got to come over to the other side and do the same count over here. Alright. So on this side, one two: three: four: five: six: seven: eight: nine ten, eleven twelve thirteen fourteen fifteen.

Sixteen seventeen eighteen return vents. So then, we'll sit down and do those numbers out on a paper and we'll explain the process. Okay. So now that we have the measurements for the condenser, we'll do the math and we'll figure that out.

The next thing we need to know is what our by-paths pressure of the headmaster had pressure. Control valve is 180 psi, so on a proper startup on this system. What we would do is we would vacuum it down. You know all that good stuff.

Okay, once we pass our decay test, we're gon na go ahead and add refrigerant to the system when we add refrigerant to the system, we're actually going to probably shut off the condenser fan, motor or block it off one or the other and we're gon na. Let the system operate while we're adding gas turn it on you're, adding you know, through the vapor side or through the suction side, you're gon na, add refrigerant and we're going to get our head pressure above 200 head pressure, 200 psi or exactly 180 psi. Once we get above that, we know that the head pressure control valve is not going to bypass and we simulate. You know we block off the condenser to do so.

We keep adding gas until we clear our sight glass when we clear our sight, glass above 200, head pressure or 200 psi in again, whatever the stamped number is. So if this is a newer headmaster, I might say 150 psi, okay, but just whatever that number is. You need to be above that number clear, the sight glass. Then we know we have the proper operating charge for the system.

If we weren't by passing on our head pressure control valve okay, then that's when the calculation comes in, we add the winter charge after we've cleared the sight glass above the bypass pressure of that guy, and obviously the system needs to be close to being down to Temp then we add the winter charge, which is whatever we do with the mathematic calculation. That would be called our flooded charge. We add that to the system, then we know that we're properly charged, if that had pressure control valve, was to ever bypass okay. So the first thing we do is we're just calculated in our numbers out: okay, so the total measured length, a straight tubing was 30 and a half inches.

We measured that out or thirty point five inches. Then we got to convert that to feet because that was an inches okay, so we're gon na take basically 30 point five and divide it by 12 inches, which equals two point five four feet of measured straight tube. Then we need to multiply the two point. Five four feet by the total number of straight tubes of 36.

Okay. So to do that number! Basically, we come up with 36 times two point: five four feet equals ninety one point four four feet of measured straight tubing: okay, then we're gon na take our return. Bends and we count it out and when you add up the two numbers that I came up with, we come up with 34 Total Return bends. Okay, we take our total equivalent length of each return, Bend and that's point: two: zero zero feet per return Bend.

We multiply that by the total amount of return, bends, 34 return. Bends times point two: zero zero feet equals six point: eight feet of total length of copper tubing inside the return bins. Okay, then we're gon na met we're gon na add up that 6.8 feet, plus the total measured length so 91.44 feet, plus the 6.8 feet equals ninety eight point: two four feet of calculated refrigerant tubing. All right, then we're gon na take the total calculated length.

Multiply it by the density factor which we found on the chart for our twenty two refrigerant at the minimum, ambient temperature, which was twenty degrees. So ninety eight point, two four feet times: point zero. Five two equals five point: one one pounds of our twenty two refrigerant and to make it a little bit easier on ourselves. That is not five pounds, eleven ounces.

That is five point one one pounds. So let's go ahead and convert that over to pounds and ounces. So basically take the five point: one pounds: okay, drop the five pounds and take the point. One one pounds multiply it by sixteen ounces and you come up with one point: seven: six: ounces; okay! So that's five pounds and we're gon na round that number up just to make our life easy, so we're basically gon na go total winter charge is five pounds.

Two ounces of our 22 refrigerant all right, so hopefully that didn't confuse the hell out of you and it kind of makes sense. Okay, it's really not that hard of a calculation to do, but the first time you do it it's gon na. Take you a good half-hour, 45 minutes and then every time after that is gon na get quicker and quicker. Honestly, by the time you figure out how to do that, it's gon na end up taking you longer to measure everything out.

Then it actually has to do the math really quick, okay, so yeah, that's pretty much it. I really appreciate you guys taking the time to watch this video. This has been something that people have asked me about before now. What I would HIGHLY highly suggest is is once you've calculated this amount and you've added it to the system on top of the normal summer charge.

Okay, I would can highly suggest that you mark that receiver. Okay, so that way, you can pump it down, find the liquid level in the receiver anytime after that, and know that this is gon na, be the properly calculated flooded charge all right that way, it just makes it easier on yourself and and again I've told you Guys, the method of heating up the receiver, you have to use some kind of heat producing device that doesn't exceed the temperature of the soft plug on the receiver. You're gon na pump the system down store all the refrigerant and the receiver then basically take that heat. Producing device go up and down the receiver once or twice and then take the back of your hand and starting at the bottom, feel up the receiver until you feel the high temperature mark and that's gon na be the liquid level in the receiver.

So once you've calculated properly the flooded charge using the 90 30 one method, I would highly suggest you mark the receiver with a paint marker. So then, from that point forward, if you ever have a leak in the system, you know that you just need to fill up to that marked level. Another method to that you could do is putting the maximum amount of refrigerant in the system which you would have to lean on the refrigerant manufacturer or the system manufacturer to find out what the total maximum charge is. Then you put that amount, and you know you can't add any more gas to the system and if the system was properly charged right, that'll be more than enough gas to properly flood the condenser during the winter time.

Okay, that's pretty much! It guys see you guys later.