This video is brought to you by spore'ln quality, integrity and tradition, so today's service call is on a walk-in freezer. That's not working. The complaint is, is that it's working fine yesterday and then today it just stopped I'd, say it's about 55 degrees, 50 degrees in here, or something like that. No ice formation, definitely a dirty coil little frosty kind of greasy, which indicates that they haven't been shutting a door.

They have a thermostat over here. I know the sequence of operation in this particular system. The evaporator is controlled by the condensing unit on the roof. So we're going to start up on the roof and see if we have power and go from there, so we come up on the roof.

This is my walk-in freezer condenser right here, so we're gon na jump into the electrical section first and troubleshoot from that point. To see what we can find open, this guy up, you understand the sequence of operation and how some of these units power comes into this. It's like you, go ahead and check in this views block, so we have 208 three-phase coming into that box. Our block right there so from that point goes into the bottom of the contactor and stops and waits and waits for the control voltage to turn it on.

So we're gon na open up the schematic and see where our next step is. You have to understand how to read these schematics and that'll help. You go a long way when you're troubleshooting these things. Okay, so now that we're in here a bunch of the schematics and stuff are missing, but what's happening here, they come in and I check between 1 and N and I get nothing on my meter and I should have something I should have 208 volts between one And all the time - and I don't so my next step - is I'm gon na go ahead and look at these fuses right here.

These fuses are part of that that controls single-phase. So if I check across these fuses right here, I get nothing and that's correct, but across that is I get 208 bullets, so we have a bad fuse now why the fuse is bad, we don't know so what we do is we shut off the power disconnect We're going to check to make sure that we've lost voltage and there's nothing there, nothing nothing! So my disconnect switch is working and now we're gon na start toning. Everything out to ground using the tone feature on the meter, so essentially we're gon na get in here tone. It all out, put your meter on tone.

I get a lot of the tone. Go feet slightly browned see if I have any direct short, I'm starting on the one that has the loan nothing toned out on the fuse go across each year. We don't have Thomas right. The next thing I'm going to do is pull up.

What's good about this schematic the top part and find these fuses, so here's fuse one and here's to use two. So essentially, if you look at the fuses, they control the control voltage section so high pressure, low pressure, compressor, contactor, coil and then it'll also go down to your defrost time, clock and everything down in the evaporator section. So we're going to check everything and see if we have any major problems that we can find it's more than likely going to be downstairs at the evaporators, but I'll pull the cover off this condensing unit and check up here. First.

So, following the schematic, I'm looking for all the control voltage wires and that's basically going into the pressure control the high pressure and low pressure here this one's been bypassed. This is the old high pressure it's been put to this Ronco dual pressure. So I'm just looking to see if I see anything obvious about the wiring, I don't see any major electrical shorts. I mean nothing obvious.

There could be something that I can't see at the moment and wires rubbing in weird places, just looking for anything any direct shorts that I can visually see. So nothing jumps out and says: here's the problem up here, so we're gon na head down to the evaporators section right now and investigate the electrical down there. So I'm going to start in the most obvious place. That's in the electrical section of the evaporator and again this is all before we replace the fuse because we're looking for a problem so we're just kind of investigating.

Looking at wiring eight places where we get electrical shorts is up against defrost heaters. You know just looking to see anything. That's rubbing, there's also another set of defrost heaters up top, and if you come right now here we go. Do you Frost you, tur, shorted out, doesn't look like it ruin the heater shorted out against the limit switch.

It's a direct short right there, but it was intermittently hitting and welded the lines together. So I went out to go, get some electrical fittings and I brought my fuses in too so I'm gon na go ahead and swap these fuses out real quick. I like this little fuse polar that I have it's really nice. It's made by ideal I'll, put a link down in the show notes the video it's cool just because they can get into little tight places and pull fuses, helps when you're putting it back in.

But there's no voltage here so I can go and push these back in sometimes fuse. This can be a little difficult. You know pop them out yeah. I like that little fuse puller.

It's really! Nice just keeps on my veto bag. If you guys, I really like these veto tech packs, but I keep my little fuse bullet right there. It stays right, there's not really a pocket, but it holds a fuse. Puller.

Perfect, absolutely perfect! You know I keep quite a bit of stuff in my bag, but I keep only what I use like almost you know, I'll use every one of these tools, probably at least once a week. So you know the stuff that I don't use. I keep out in the van to try to keep the weight down, but you know my wrench bag. It's got the wrenches that I use on a daily kneepads.

You know electrical screwdrivers yeah. You know I just kind of keep what I need in there and service ranch electrical, taking all that good stuff, so so anyways we're gon na get down to bypassing that limits which temporarily and then I'll get some new ones and come back out. So, okay, whenever we change limits which is first off, I don't have this limit switch and you're not gon na repair. This and trust it because you don't know what happened inside the switch so we're gon na change it so cheap enough part, you're, gon na change.

The limit switch, even if it wasn't cheap enough, he'd change it just to be safe, but I'm investigating everything. I change limit switches as a set okay. So if I'm changing this one, I'm changing all of them and I'm just an inspecting them getting part numbers off of them just so. I can verify because I honestly think that this one's in the wrong place, but I'm gon na do some research right now, but the other thing I want to point out to notice the the waterproof seal is cracked on this one, so moisture can get inside of There and freeze this is the heater safety, so this is why these things are very cheap and they go bad quite often, so you change them all as a set.

In my opinion, that's how I roll so I'm gon na figure out what this one's doing right here and then we're gon na bypass it temporarily and I'll come back tomorrow with some limit switches. That way I can get there walk and freezer up and run. So I did confirm that this is the fan. Delay switch this one has three switches, so it has a fan, delay a defrost termination and a heater safety switch.

So the fan delay is the one that's shorted out so and it is in the right spot. So what I did was, I just temporarily, bypassed it, so that one we want him to be wire netted together. That was the defrost termination. We would disconnect them, but this one.

Basically, if I leave this unwired, the fans will never turn on so put that in there temporarily that'll get it going. I don't see any other damage, inspect it more when we come back, but everything else looks good, so we can start it up and watch the unit come watching at work. I'll come back tomorrow right. So I'm about to fire this guy up and another thing I want to tell you something I didn't put on in camera - that you always want to pay attention to is how you what the orientation of the defrost timer is when you come up to it, especially On a walk-in freezer, so if you notice this guy's in a defrost and it failed in a defrost, because you saw what happened the wires shorted out against the defrost heating element, it always helps you to pay attention to the orientation of the clock, because it gives You an area to look so if this failed in defrost, I'm gon na probably start with the defrost heaters.

You know. If it didn't fail in defrost, we won't necessarily focus on the defrost years. We might still look at them. You know so it's just another troubleshooting helping point to help.

You guys figure that out okay, so we got new fuses in here, fired up okay, so we fired up right now. Yeah defrost is terminated because it's so warm in the box, so we'll go ahead and check this out notice. We've got a green LED. Actually you guys don't see that, but it's hard to tell, but the green is lit up.

The red is not the way that the LED works, but so, and also if you look at the time that it happened, it failed at 10 a.m. and it's now like 4 p.m. or 4:30 or 5 p.m. so.

This thing's been down all day long, Phil, 10 a.m. all right. So it's been set the time correct on this yeah, that's pretty much it so we're gon na watch. This thing drop a little bit significantly in temp and then we'll come back put those limit switches on there I'll just kind of come over here, make sure we've got a clear sight: glass, it's probably not a good time to look at it yet well! Actually, no, I take that back in a normal situation.

You would want to wait a few minutes for the sight glass, because the fan delay is going to prevent the fans from coming on because it's still warm in there, but because I bypassed it. Those fans are running right now, so we should have a clear sight. Glass, I'm just looking to see if there's anything else and I need to worry about it - doesn't look like it so after I let it run for a few minutes, I put the unit into a defrost just to make sure it wasn't gon na blow the breaker Again and defrost, and it's not because there's no direct short against the heating element anymore, so we're good with that click. This guy back over and just watch it come down in town.

We came back out with the limit switches on this and I went ahead and applied my service gauges just to see how the units were running seems like it's running. Okay, I've got a leaking peen valve when you open it when you close it or backseat, and it stops leaking so running a clear sight glass. So we will bring this stuff up to them, but we're just going to get it operational. We ended up changing the pressure controls because we had the high side pressure control without a service key on that, and I don't have a service team with me right now.

So we pulled that off and I was worried because when I pulled the cap off, it was pissing out like that. So it's going to be found to be leaking through right here, so so anyways. But when I back seeded it stops leaking. So we'll talk to the customer about putting a new receiver on there, but we put new pressure controls.

We just put peanut controls for now and we'll make some recommendations for a permanent replacement to the customer, so we're gon na. We were just testing the roof. The unit was down to temp when we got here so we're going to go ahead and put this button this up and then go downstairs and change the limits which is now so it's interesting, because this one doesn't have an adjustable packing on it and you can See when I close it, it's absolutely front or back seat it. It doesn't leak anymore, but when you have it, you know crack that's when it starts hissing gas out everywhere.

Now this is a valve that has a packing, and so you just loosen this before you and when you loosen a packing it'll leave, it has normal for it to be done so, but you just when you tie it back up. Unfortunately, on these ones there's nothing to tighten alright, so we replaced the heater safety. The fan, delay and the defrost termination switch so and then we're just gon na make sure they don't rub up against anything. We'll put some zip ties in here: make sure we don't have a repeat offense on that defrost heater, so yeah, I'm looking good.

So far we got the unit in a defrost, so we can test it. Do its fan delay when we turn it back on. So I was watching this thing defrost and another wire shorted out right here. While I was doing it, it shorted out against the heater, and you can see like it looks like right here.

Someone had fixed a wire on that like something shorted against there before. So. What's happening here, is they just got a mess of wires? They got way too much in here, so I'm gon na clean this up. It's gon na take me a little bit, but I'm gon na undo each wire individually shorten them and try to clean this mess up, because this is just a spaghetti jumble and this is ridiculous.

Okay, I got a little carried away with zip ties, but no more shorting out to heaters heaters are all safe. Wires are tucked back where they need to be organized tight neat everything was solid, strand or solid wire, and I went to stranded. So that's why there's wire nuts back here so that way I could put connectors on them and get them all nice and neat everything's in there nice and tight, so we're gon na power. This guy up the coil is nice and warm now so we'll we'll power.

It up right now and then we should have a family. Just kick him back up on top of the show, so we're just waiting to turn the power around right now get my face away from the electrical section in case I did something wrong. We get any surprises on the face. Heaters are working, heaters are working, that's the drain, pan, that's the coil heater, so we're just gon na.

Let this thing a timeout or 10th out on defrost right now all right and we just clicked out a defrost on temperature and the refrigeration circuit turned on and the fans are delayed, so we're gon na hang out until the coil gets cold enough. So my fan delay is right here, and this is acting as a light switch. The fan delay is on the bottom and it's acting as a light switch when the quo gets cold enough it basically the light switch turns on and it turns the fans on and so we're just waiting for. The fan delay to see the correct temperature on the coil and once it does, that it'll turn the fans on and you can actually um rub - and you know this line right here and this is toll.

So there we go. We just turn the fans on. So now our limit switches are all working correctly. Everything is good.

We're gon na go ahead and wrap this up and be done with this one. So we had a service call on a walk-in freezer and when I arrived, I found that the unit had a blown control fuse okay, first off whenever I change control, fuses or fuses in general, like let's say I'm working on a disconnect that has a blown fuse. I change all three fuses at the same time, if it's three-phase okay, if it's single-phase, I changed two fuses. So in this situation we had one blown control fuses, but I changed them both okay and furthermore, I left spare fuses for the next guy in there too, because sometimes, when you get in these small little control fuses, you may not have them in your truck.

So whenever I, if I can, I will typically sell you, know an extra set of fuses and just leave them in the box for the next guy okay. But I before I change the fuse, like you guys saw I went through and did my best to troubleshoot everything, okay, because we don't want to just turn the system back on and blow another fuse, because we could potentially cause more damage to the system. So we investigated everything and I ended up finding the problem, or at least what I believed to be the problem, and it was a shorted out fan, delay wire that shorted out on the defrost heater okay went ahead and temporarily bypassed that got the unit operational and Then came back out and ended up finding more potential electrical shorts in there to actually I found another electrical short and then repaired. Some other potential ones, okay, and also like you guys saw, is whenever I'm changing limit switches.

I change all the limit switches, so in this particular system we have three limit switches. We change them all together those limit switches, they have a very high failure rate and that's why we change them all. At the same time. Okay, there's nothing worse than the customer.

Saying hey, you were just out here changing the fan delay, but now my defrost termination switch it's just just solvent when you're in there. Okay, I mean, of course you know you want to bring what you can up to the customer, but you know it's it's in your best interest to go ahead and take care of that just like when you change a filter dryer when you open up a system. Okay, technically, they might not need it, but how well do you know that filter dryers plugged up you get where I'm going so you change the filter dryer every single time anyway, so I digress got the unit operational, went ahead and redid that electrical section, like you Guys saw - and that was pretty much it okay, thank you guys so very much for taking the time to watch these videos. I know I say this at the end of every one of my videos, but I really truly do mean it.

Okay, really appreciate it. Leave me some feedback down in the comments it. I really like to read your guys's feedback, whether it be good or bad it. You know, I'm always looking to improve.

So if there's something you think I could do better. Let me know: okay, I I can handle criticism, so bring it on alright, really appreciate it and we will catch you guys on the next one. Okay.