This was a call on a burning smell coming from the Walk in Cooler, when I arrived the cooler was working properly but the freezer had a tripped breaker. After a little investigation I found that the burning smell was in both of the evaporator fan motors. I replaced them both and also changed the limit switches.
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This video is brought to you by spore'land, so we got a service call on a walk-in freezer. Well, actually, they said the service call is on the walk-in cooler and they said there was a burning smell from one of the motors. I couldn't find a burning smell, so the walk-in freezer is inside the walk-in cooler through another door. I open that up and I can smell the burning smell.
I noticed that it's nice and cold inside the box, but the coils not running so I came up onto the roof and the breakers tripped. So we're not gon na reset that breaker, okay, we're gon na turn it off we're gon na turn it off and we're gon na go downstairs and investigate for an electrical shop. There's my freezer coil and it smells like an electrical burn in here really bad, especially when you open up the doors, so we've got power off. So what I'm gon na do is go ahead and take these fan guards off and the fan blades off and investigate the wiring running through the bulkheads inside here very common place.
There's a little bulkhead and there's like a little cord per neck protector and wires a lot of time to rub out on those they also melt to heaters. So we're gon na check that also so I pulled out both blades inspected all the electrical and I can't find anything that's jumping out at me. So what I went ahead and did is put one of the fan blades back on turn the unit on it didn't trip the breaker and I'm just watching it operate now. What I'm gon na do is go ahead and disconnect the leads to this motor and go ahead and amp this motor out and then do this vice-versa for this one over here.
So none of the camera can see it or not, but this motor over here spending a lot faster than this one. Oh, this one is barely going and a house 208 bolts definitely got something going off. This is actually a couple days later. I went ahead and replaced both motors and because I had the burning smelling both of them, so I changed them both and then I got to thinking what would cause both those motors to fail and the only thing it could be as long as it was getting Proper voltage was the limit switch the fan delay.
So I bypassed the fan delay and I'm actually back here today to go ahead and replace the fan, delay and the defrost termination. When I work on walk-in freezers and I have to change limit switches, I usually change those two together. Okay, so it's usually a jumbled mess inside here. The limit switches are back here.
The three wire defrost termination fan delays on the top and then the two wire feed your safety is on the bottom, narrow to yellow and white. So what's happening with the heater safety is power from Terminal three from the time clock runs through the heater safety. So long as it's not too hot, it energizes the heaters and as far as the defrost termination switch goes, it's just breaking common, so you've got common. Let's see up here on the red wire and common is just running through the defrost termination fan delay.
So if the coil gets too warm, the common gets sent up to the ex terminal on the time clock and it terminates defrost and if the coil gets cold enough, the common is sent to the other side of the evaporator fan motors. That one comes through right here on this black wire, so it's just basically a light switch alright. So this you know they can't always be super easy, but this was an interesting one where we had a complaint of a burning smell and I ended up finding a breaker tripped. But once I reset the breaker, everything was working. Ok, but you can't just reset it and walk away. Sometimes you got to investigate a little bit further. Ok, dug into it found that the burning smell was actually coming from the evaporator fan motors went ahead and replaced both the families. I didn't catch that part on film, but I replaced both the fan motors and then after I did.
I wanted to do a follow up and that's when I kind of decided you know what I'm gon na change those limits, which is two because, like I said in the video, I'm trying to think what would cause the motors to to become a problem if they Had the right voltage going to him, potentially it could be that defrost termination fan delay limits which okay most of the time like mentioned in the video. When I change limit switches, I change them as a set, so you know if it if it has three limit switches in there that I'm going to change all three. This one has a combination, fan, delay, defrost termination and a heater safety, so I just swap them out real quick and on those heat, craft coils and even the other brands. It's a very common thing for the limits, which is the fail, especially with the newer ones.
The older ones seem to last a lot longer, but you know it is what it is so really appreciate you guys taking the time to watch this video, and we will see you guys next time. Okay.
No capacitors on the motors?
Fluke 1507
use it for the motor and the cables. Are you in Kanata ?
id be Probably replacing that Breaker too possibly ? it Fell out kinda easily ? Definately visual inspection of Breaker & Contact point to the bus bar ?
Good vid. i Hate When there is no obvious short or burn. Youve got to be super thorough and check everything. Amp check the drain line heater. ?
1) sometimes – that means that it occurred when in defrost – sometimes.
For the new guys out there – If the breaker is tripped & the Defrost clock is in defrost thats a key giveaway. dont just all willy nilly spin the defrost clock.
2) if nothing obvious – Alot of times – ive seen the Freezer drain line heater Burn open and it wont trip the breaker again , but it wont be warming either. super important to check the amps on drain line heater.
3) Ftngot ) – whenever u see frozen water stuck to fan blade covers it means 1 of 3 things
a) drain line is plugged
b) drain line heater is not working
c) fan delay is bypassed or not working correctly. if over 10 yrs old Replace. they are cheap & should be a truck stock item. When in doubt allways replace. write year beside it with sharpie when replaced.
perfect Are you in Nepean ?
thanks for the very good explained on the vidio
Great job again
Great videos, learning a lot.
I worked as an electronic tech for 20 years and decided to walk away. I started working for a Temp company that deals in the trades. So the last 18 months I have worked in HVAC, Electrical and excavation. Got a call from a company a few days ago and asked me if I was willing to interview for a service position in commercial refrigeration. I told them I never worked in that field and they stated we think you would be a good candidate to be able to learn and excel here. Interview is in a couple days so I been watching videos when ever I have free time. So anyways, thanks for the great videos.
I've found that when you got a motor running slow especially this case,a wire has burned through but also burned through to a ground which is acting as a neutral-i've run into some strange stuff in my years
Here's a doozy for you. 6 year old goodman central heat and air ac unit keeps switch from hot to cold every 30 seconds . Only thing that stops it is to turn brake off or turn head unit off . I thought it would be a simple fix by replacing the head unit with fresh battery's but no luck . Any idea what it is ? It worked fine for 6 years .
I like you videos. I'm learning about stuff I never knew anything about. Awesome videos. Keep up the good work. Service area Orleans??
Sir can you please explain.
What is automatic pumpdown of chiller?
What is antifreeze alarm means , if shown in chiller display?
Why superheat is showing very low(4°), possible cause?
good vid bud
#174 Thumbs up!
Good vid Chris … Another good teaching tool …
Hope the pan heater doesn't have a split on the bottom side or under a clip.
Very responsible of you to go back. 👍
if there's no phase monitor/protector, one phase dropped could allow the motors to run on low voltage via back-feed through other equipment in the building or more.
Always good to ask if they had any power issues in the area and visually inspect all wiring/devices from the equipment back to source breaker/panel. Are you in Barrhaven ?
Nice find sir
How would the fan delay switch cause the fan motors to burn up if they received the proper voltage ?
I hope I get to work up with a technician like you when I start my apprenticeship.
Good call sir !
I have this same this problem it was fan motor burned out due bad FDTD switch. I did spent in walk in freezer for hours to found out. I turned defrost clock into defrost and timing defrost ended and fan was run right away as the moisture blow out. I can see the little spark on motor. Replaced FDTD switch and fan motor just like you did that. Good video as always Chris
Perfect video for my morning coffee Service area Ottawa??
👍👍👍
I love your video very much Very nice job
Congratulations for your first sponsor,
Ice build up on the guard will keep the fan from turning and eventually burn it.
Exellent video ! Just a request if it posible with that same system a wiring diagram follow up would be great !! I love your videos ! You would be a great teacher for hvac school ! I went to LATT.
Always a good way to start the morning
One of my first refrigeration calls I've ever got was smoke smell in walk in cooler. Unit was running and maintaining temp in arrival. I tore the thing apart checking every wire and component but couldn't find anything even slightly irregular. That's when one of the new employees who didn't know I was in there strolls in cigarette in hand… Needless to say that was the last time he did that or anything else at that location as he was asked to leave permanently.
love your videos Chris. Youre one of the best HVACR guys ive ever seen.. keep up the great work! Ive learned so much from watching these. Thank you for taking the time to make them