Where it starts Friday, night service call buddy, you mean, I should say it's about five o'clock: walk-in freezer, not working, no fans, no ice present power switch, I checked, doesn't seem like there's any signs of power at it and they're frozen liquids are liquid, not frozen. So this thermometer says it's about 33 degrees inside the box right now. So at this point, I'm gon na start on the roof, see what's going on up there, this particular walk-in freezer everything's controlled from the condensing unit on the roof, all right. So I'm up here on the roof, and the first thing I did was just come over to the compressor, just kind of feel around I've even checked power.

Yet it doesn't feel hot feels. Nice and cool feels like it's been off for a while. Nothing major jumping out at me, but it's not running over here at the electrical first off you know before digital we still do a little bit before digital. We wrote everything down now we kind of have a lot of information in our phones.

Also, it's very important make sure you label your equipment to make it easier for the next guy. I'm sure you guys hear me on my videos I like to do a lot of things for the next guy, because it also helps me and what goes around comes around so system G is the one we're working on? That's the walk-in freezer! That's this three-phase guy right there breakers, not tripped, so that's a good sign, so we're just going to get off the meter and check some voltages. Also, the other thing real, quick make sure it's not stuck in a defrost and make sure that the terminals aren't melted. So so far, everything's looking pretty good three phase power coming into the contactor.

That's a good sign! That means the breakers not tripped. We've got no voltage coming out of the contactor. Let's go over to our defrost clock, the end terminal to line one 208. So that means our clock has power.

Okay. This is an 81 45 20. So now we're gon na go from in two three: that's the defrost terminal. We have no voltage, that's a good sign because the clock isn't in defrost and then from in to four.

We have 208, so this defrost clock is telling the system to run. Something is not allowing that compressor contactor to come on. If we go over here and look at our schematic, we follow it down our compressor contactor see, there's our compressor contact or three legs. That's c7 is the contactor coil c7 is powered right here, and it looks like line voltage comes in goes through.

A discharge. Sensor goes through a high pressure. A low pressure then goes to the contactor coil, so we need to check and see if any of those safeties are trips somewhere. Our problem is somewhere between right here on 135 and all the way up to 137 and how so we need to get to that compressor.

Contactor coil, which is right here, well we'll just go over here and look at the pressure controls we'll take a little shortcut. So this is a micro set control, it's just a type of pressure control, so we're going to check across the contacts and we have 208 volts. That means that we have an open circuit. That means that that pressure control is open, whether it be because of high pressure or low pressure.

I really don't think it's because of high pressure, but we will test it. So what we can actually do if we want to know exactly what it is, we can test the high pressure circuit and we can test the low pressure circuit. So here's the high pressure circuit, we have zero volts. Let's test the low pressure circuit, low pressure circuit, we have 208 volts, so our problem is in the low pressure circuit, so the low pressure control on this particular walk-in freezer is monitoring the system pressures.

The system pressure is controlled by a solenoid valve downstairs, which is also controlled by a thermostat, so we're gon na go downstairs and look at the thermostat and see if our thermostat is calling. If the thermostat is calling, it should be opening up the liquid line. Solenoid valve and theoretically letting refrigerant up. If there's still any in the system, we can also have low pressure in the system, so we should probably apply service gauges.

But since I have to go downstairs to get my service gauges, I might as well check the evaporator and look at the temperature controller first. So this is interesting. Thermostat is open right now it only has 117 volts. This is a 208 volt circuit.

The thermostat was actually the thermostat was actually closed when I got here so it was working correctly telling the system to turn on, but I should be reading 208 volts when it's open zero volts. When it's closed, that's correct. So, there's something wrong here as to why I don't have 208 volts at that thermostat. I should be reading 208, so I opened up this evaporator cover with the temperature controller on it and here's the control and look at these limit switches.

That's not a good sign! Nothing and then this one over here, it's pretty bad too, so that top one it's swollen out. That's definitely not good. I'm gon na go turn off the power on the main roof and still has power right now and check out that limit switch. So this is a really tight one that uh limit switch was a defrost termination switch.

So I just went ahead and put wire nuts on the wires for now we'll get him a new one, but I don't think that has to do with our problem because we're having a voltage issue. What I did is I got up into here. I can get you guys in there it's difficult for me to get in there, but I have power between four and neutral 208 volts. So that means that the time clock is sending power down here to tell this club to turn on.

So our problem is getting lost after four neutral, so I got the cover removed for the scylla night valve. So if I check on that valve, I should have 208 volts going to the valve, so we're gon na open that up right now. Look in there! This is just at the other end of the coil, the other end where the electrical is over there. So I got the solenoid coil pulled apart and I do not have 208 volts going to it.

It's like I'm missing a common, because I have 115 you ground on one wing, but I don't have it on the other, so I wan na further investigate a little bit more. This one was a tricky little punk-ass. Look at that. This is that black cable right there goes down behind the TXV, comes down below the heater and look at it.

The heater shorted it out it rubbed up against the heater and melted. That's our power wire. It looks like it melted in two places, so I'm gon na turn off power and fix that that is a tricky one freakin here, man look at that little temporary repairs, some SJ cord for the wind, just kind of temporarily got it up in there and we'll Come back and run a whole new cord from one side of the club or the other to this solenoid off, so I'm gon na go upstairs and power it on right now, right there, I'm thinking that it arced, I'm thinking that it something happened there. When I get the clip out and then we'll see what we can find, so these are the little chingus that hold the heater up goes something like that clicks into the coil.

That's one of them right there. It rubbed the hole right on the top. Actually, I don't think it rubbed the hole. I really think that it art.

I think that the heater when that wire shorted out on the heater, I think this is where it grounded - was right on that in a blue hole. So I'm gon na have to put a temporary weld on that for the night and wind up changing this coil, I'm gon na put a temporary weld on it. For now what a night welcome to restaurant refrigeration, I guess it could have been in the worst spot. I got all the tubes: do that that's an arc for sure, so the heater shorted out they ground it against the cat or the Kate, the the case of the heater, and I think, that's the first spot where it actually grounded to the coil.

And if you look, these things are rotted out really bad, so the rust probably wasn't letting it make good contact. So I got the fins cut away, looks like an art when it's shorted against the defrost heater, which is right there. You can see the little white spot on the heater over there, that's where the wire rubbed against it. So it's shorted against that defrost heater and I believe this was the closest spot that it grounded out and it arced right on that copper line and blew a hole in it.

So I'm gon na sand it up and throw a temporary weld on it and then we'll disconnect that defrost heater just in case it's still shorting out or something and then we'll get them. I will get an emergency coil out here next week. Get this thing replaced. Just hold pull vacuum on it, real quick, put too much solder, but it's okay.

I wanted to be sure a nice big booger dripping from it, save that for the whole thing, I got a weld on it. I'm gon na come over here and disconnect this heater from the circuit. So that way we don't get any more arcs sorry. This is what I'm doing, what there's a freaking light fixture three inches away from this thing, so that's a to get up in here.

I'm gon na go find where those go into the heater terminals and rip them off. They're. Only gon na have a defrost heater on one side, but we'll literally have to change this coil next week so make life easy. I just cut the wires and put wire nuts on it because it was going back in there and it's like screwed onto those terminals.

I don't wan na have to fight that right now, all right, so I got the vacuum on there right now. I got the coil put back together just pulling through my manifold, because I really don't care about the system right now, I'm not in a huge hurry. So it's not gon na take long anyways, I'm just pulling down the suction side, because it's pumped down so we're just going to pull down the back and make sure it holds. I guess I probably should have done a pressure test, but again I'm a little impatient.

So pretty confident my world now, that's it we're gon na pull this back him down and then start it up and we'll see. If we have to add gas, I might have caught it before it ran out. I honestly think I did all right so we're back up and running held a half-assed decent vacuum. I got it down to about 9:45 and it held so I wasn't gon na try any harder than that running.

A clear sight, glass right now give it a few minutes for the coil fans to turn on. I'm gon na go downstairs and see if it's blowing any gas out down there right now, he is running success. That'll get us bye for now until next time, when we change it, you.