This video is brought to you by spore'ln quality, integrity and tradition. Today we have a walk-in freezer evaporator that is not working. The complaint was that they have soft ice cream and yeah. That's the case, because ice cream is dripping everywhere.

What I found back in here is that we've got a freeze up problem, but the freeze up problem is a little peculiar kind of ended, indicative of a TXV problem, but we will see I got to get it defrosted and then we'll further test everything we have Literally, got ice cream dripping out the bottom of their things, so I've showed this numerous times, but when I defrost evaporator coils, I take everything out, fan motors fan, blades and everything I find it to be more effective. In my opinion - and it goes a lot faster when you just pull everything out and then you can just go to town, get them defrosted a defrost from the inside out that way, I'm not making a mess, but just in case I did put my hands down Here to try to catch any overflow, that might happen so there's a very slow process. It's not a race, even though I want to do it as fast as possible. We still take our time and I just basically spray until the water gets above the drain nipple, which is there in the back and then I stop.

I don't ever want the water to be leaking out onto the floor, so we just do it in bursts. Little bursts get a little bit of stuff going on. I like this wand, for this too, just like I like it for everything else, but from the top down a little better time. So I made quick work of defrosting it.

It's all defrosted all the way through to the back and the expansion valve sections defrosted to remove light right. There yeah it's all good, so now we're going to assemble it turn the system on and then check the Viper to superheat and troubleshoot the rest of the system. So this expansion valve is acting. Wonky probably has a bad power head.

I'm not a fan of these Emerson balance they're kind of jumpy, especially since you can't change the power heads on them. They're gon na be fine for tonight, but we're gon na have to come back and change that power or change that expansion um. So we are back today the unit had ice on the evaporator coil again in the same weird frost pattern just at the top of the coil. So I went ahead and took care of that real, quick defrosted, a at the unit's back on and running.

We are running with a clear sight: glass we are running with. Let's see our super heats about 30 degrees in droppy and the box is still a little bit warm, but I know that we've got a valve. That's bad. We've got a 24 degree box temp right now, so we're going to go ahead and pump this guy down and go ahead and get ready to change the expansion valve and then we'll go something to think about.

There's always something about these kolpak or RDI. It's all the same, I'm not trying to talk crap, but there's always something about the way that they do their receivers, and it's just silly. So this receiver has a king valve. But if you notice, we have 0 psi and I just front seated the king table and pump the system down so the way that they set up this receiver.

There's no pressure - or this is on the the outlet side of the king valve, basically, which I don't like, because it makes it hard for you to look at discharge pressure when you're pumping the system down discharge pressure is very important when you're pumping a system down To find out, if the system possibly is overcharged, or it wasn't sized right because there's some systems that you can't pump down just one of my pet peeves, I have a suction transducer or suction pressure probe downstairs on the evaporator. So I know that the suction pressure pump down, but it's just frustrating when you can't put your high side on there and monitor the system pressures. So you would have no idea, and you would hope that the high pressure control would work if the system was overcharged and trying to pump down. So I've got my nitrogen rig hooked up we're pushing down through the liquid line.

It's coming back up on the suction line. I am gon na have to de-energize the coil eventually right now, there's a solenoid valve, that's open, but I'll go ahead and put my solenoid valve magnet on the coil. Once I do that, I got my solenoid valve magnet here, so we'll go ahead and put this guy on there and then that way we don't have to have power going to the coil to energize the cylinder valve and we can still push nitrogen through. As you get into these low temp boxes, I'm not saying it's important.

It's not important on a medium ten box, but as you get into the lower ten boxes, moisture contamination is very, very important that you don't have any because, as you get to the sub-zero temperatures, the moisture can really become a problem it can freeze in the system. It can make these valves stick, you know it can cause all kinds of things and again, I'm not saying it's not important on medium tempo on air conditioning, but it's even more important than any of the other on the ultra low or on the low temp equipment. So it's not always desirable working in these walkins, so I've got this valve sanded up we're gon na have to unswayed it I'm working on getting the sensing ball, but, like I'm sitting on top of a shelf, I mean there's no room up in here. So you know you got ta you're gon na try to think smart and make it easier by trying to be prepared, so we're gon na get that strap, undone and see if we can't get this thing unswept and the new one put in it's kind of a Pain, but it is what it is not too much of a surprise.

They they didn't give me any room to mount. The sensing bulb. Look at look at that. That's just stupid, frustrating so I'll see what we can do to fix this kind of a pain in the butt I'd rather not mounted on the vertical.

If I don't have to well, I got all the insulation ripped off because it was saturated, anyways and I'll end up redoing it but check this out. So I don't know what they were doing, but they put a joint in the middle. So if I eliminate this joint, I can braise here and I can brace here and I can have a solid piece of pipe for the sensi Baldwin mountain. So that's the plan we're just kind of seeing what all we need to do to make that happen.

But we have the thing all sanded up and ready to go. I went ahead and grabbed my rosebud tip, so I can pull those out real, quick, we're gon na try to cut the joint right here then unsolder and then we'll sweat. The new one in and hopefully it'll be a nice clean spot for the sensing bowl to mount. Now all right can't get this to work.

Look at my tubing cutter. Don't get stuck like that. Always works out to be a pain in the butt like this, but you know it is what it is you just got to learn to deal with it. Take your punches lovely we're gon na have to fight some oil.

If we can get this in hi there we go yeah. Let's hope I can seal this up kind of tricky with that oil in there. Okay, there's definitely more than enough solder on there. I tend to go a little heavy, especially when I'm working on a joint.

Like this that's becoming problematic, I'm hoping we didn't get any oil contamination. One of those things you just got to learn to work with we're going to inspect this joint make sure we had even flow looks good, and you see how, when I, when I saw it when I brings those I cool the solder on the top, and then I let it drip down. Yeah we got a plenty of solder, looks like you got in the joint nice and good cool this guy off. Remember we're pushing nitrogen still through that stuff.

Now we got a nice clean spot to put our sensing Bowlby. Also, another thing you got to be careful about: is I'm filling this box up with smoke and it's displacing the oxygen in here. So as I step off the ladder, it's probably gon na be really nasty, so you probably want to open the door and let some air through and then await this thing a little bit, let it cool and then do another inspection. Okay! So now we're gon na get in here.

I don't think I can get a camera angle to show this, but I'm just gon na unswept that Valve put a noose, Illinois pal pipe it back to there alright. So now we got a nice clean spot for the sensi bulbed amount to. I still got to figure out the insulation, we'll do that here. In a few minutes, we got to do a leak check on this guy to push this bushing back in there and I'll show you guys the valve.

It was a pain of what to braise in here's the valve over here. It's braised in it was just a pain cuz. I had to redo some stuff. I ended up putting in a new silhouette valve.

I got ta go get a coil for it, so I've got the magnet on it for the moment and then yeah everything's. Looking good we'll clean it up will insulate it and we'll get a vacuum. I still got to change the dryer and install a sight glass. Alright, we're gon na try to get this guy.

All figured out right now got to get a liquid line, dryer and a sight glass in here. First thing: we're gon na do is start with unbrace in what we need to unbrace and then we'll figure everything out from that. I always take a steel brush to the ends on this make sure you get the stuff out of the grooves good good threads are a little fudged out. Hopefully they seem a little like work or something yeah, they're threatened on fine, be okay, all right you putting these male females on there.

They never line up right. So don't stress and watch out for the copper ring that just fell out. This has to be in there make sure you get this popper ring back in that because that's how it's meant to be on there, so I can seal properly, so dryer should be pointing into the site glass a little bit of nylon, but a little bit on The mating surface, to don't got to go crazy, then we'll tighten it on should be good, always tighten down to the proper torque setting. Do, as I say, not as I do it's good again, it's you know they don't always line up.

So don't stress it. This guy right here yep, I can see the Cyclops just fine, so that's what we're going to sometimes I'll utilize these other times. I brought my flaring block up because I didn't know if I was going to make a play or not, but I'll use this. This will make easier good.

Then I got some of this, but this guy right here like that to make a band with this brother Inder up. You know what I think I screwed up looks like gon na work. I thought I made it too short and obviously yeah, so we need to market and we need to cut this top one shorter to buy a hair. I didn't measure it, but I could tell it needed to be a little bit shorter, so we'll go about 1/2 inch.

1/2 inch shorter. That cut it at our mark. Do everything a quick little rub with the sandpaper and then we'll ream out our pike yeah? If these guys a quick little spin with the sandpaper okay, that looks good okay. So what I'm gon na do is take these channel locks just bend it a little bit same thing right here now I can take the drive and sightglass off in the stay where they're at, although no see this bottom one doesn't want to money, raise this guy On real quick play at all nice and good pull this guy off the brass got really hot good little Braves join no problems.

We got to give it a little purge with some nightstick go. I just turned my nitrogen rig up and blew any stuff that was in there out school. This guy take a little bit of that dialogue. Put it right on the top right here and move the flare around you're going to lose right now, it's so hot that it's like binding out, so we want it to flow freely.

Just like an oil lubricate, the maintenance, surface, nice yeah, that's cool! Do the same thing on this one, just right on the mating surface right up here, spin, it nice and good looks good. I like it yeah we can go and place our dryer in that I can actually go ahead and lubricate this with nyeh log. Now, just a teeny s bit right on the meetings I need to torque on that top on just a little bit more. I'm gon na braise in that bottom, wheel or braze joint make sure that I was making sure that we were still getting pressure coming out of here.

We are making sure that my solenoid magnet was still okay. Look that guy with the mirror, real, quick and let's try to get to the tiniest turn-on all right. That's all we need so we're tightened up, we're ready to vacuum the system down, we'll give it a purge with nitrogen, real quick coming through nice and good, and then we'll go down and vacuum rig and go from there baby steps. So I got my insulation kind of all.

I you know figured out what I wanted to do with my insulation. I'm gon na try to make it one piece and then just glue the edges, so it'll be like a perfect 90. Hopefully it seems like it's gon na work, so we're gon na put it together right now. I cut it on all the seams, so it should work out we'll see.

So I am no way an insulation expert, but I glued all the seams. It seems like it's nice and tacky. I put a piece over right here and then we're gon na wrap it with tape and get it nice and pretty. It's not gon na be perfect.

So I'd love to have a p-trap here too, but there's just no room without radio and the line set on the roof all right. So I just turned it back on and we've got a pretty even frost pattern. It doesn't look like it's frosting up just on the top anymore and let's see the expansion valve looks nice and good in here, so we're gon na. Let it come down in temp, I'm actually going to change the door hinges on this guy.

So here's just a little view. I ended up putting two new door hinges and then a door closure on the the door so that way it closes properly all by itself all right. So we are doing much better now granted we're still at 17 degrees superheat. But my box temp is still a little high, so it's not quite down to temperature.

Yet I'm not gon na crank on the valve, because I have a feeling: it'll drop back down, where it's usually don't want to start cranking on it, so we're at 15 degrees in the box right now and we need to get down to negative 10. So if it was at negative 5 - and I had 15 degrees, superheat I'd start adjusting on it, but these valves to be honest with you they're pretty much factory set on the spoiling ones. You can usually get about 8 to 10 degrees. Super heat on the spoiling valves without having to do much at all, so we'll do a follow up on another day, but I'm super stuffed with the way that this thing's working everything's looking good we've got it again, even frost pattern on the coil, I'm a happy Camper, so we're gon na wrap it up and tell him to keep an eye on it, so this turned out to be an extremely long day when I returned the coil was frozen up just like it was the first time so I ended up having to spend You know an hour defrosting it and then, after that, that's when I started in on changing the expansion valve, but altogether between changing the expansion valve.

You know piping, the stuff, the dryer on the roof, taking everything up and down. I was in this for about eight and a half hours, changing the hinges, all that good stuff, so there's a pretty long day but anyways. So we had a dead giveaway of some kind of a problem with the expansion valve. Now I was a little bit worried when I found that sensing bulb and how it was mounted to the suction line.

But I don't know if that was the complete cause, because that had been like that for like three years, so I can't say - and we haven't been having this icing up problem for three years, so I can't see the sensing bulb improperly, being strapped being the only Problem, I'm pretty confident we had a problem with that expansion valve okay and you know when I had 30 degrees superheat on the evaporator when it was like what was it like, 15 or 10 degrees, or something like that. That's you know, that's unheard of and then do you could just tell by the way that was icing up. So I went ahead and replaced the valve and you saw you know. I never saw the Box completely come down to ten, but I was very happy with the way that it was performing after especially the fact that we saw like a clean frost pattern.

That was the biggest thing, so everything seemed to be working properly. Customer was happy. The biggest thing was, was I put new hinges on that door, so now it shuts because before we were having nothing but problems with him, leaving that door open and it was constantly becoming an issue, so went ahead and those hinges on those were good. You know the one thing about those hinges is: is they had these little security screws, the one-way screws, they're stainless steel, one-way screws? If you guys haven't dealt with those, they can be a chore, especially getting them out.

I actually have a special bit set that I use to get them out and then, if for whatever reason, because even on some of them, they were pretty bad in the bit the special little security bits that wouldn't get them out, then what I do is just Take a grinder and just notch a straight flat notch inside the screw and then just use a flathead screwdriver to back them out, but once you do that you got to replace them with new screws. The important thing is is this is for the hinges. The important thing is is that you use stainless steel, because if you don't the next time you go to change those hinges in about a year a year and a half or so they're all gon na be rusted in there and nasty so make sure you go Back in with stainless steel stuff so but yeah other than that guys, that was pretty much it nothing too crazy. Just a long day.

You know just got to follow them, go through the motions, and you know, follow your procedures and make sure you do everything the right way and it all comes together at the end. Hopefully, so I really appreciate you guys taking the time to watch these videos. Please send me an email with any questions. You have HVAC our videos at gmail.com and you know leave me comments whatever.

I really appreciate it, okay and we will catch you guys on the next one.