This video is brought to you by spore'ln quality, integrity and tradition. Today we have a walk-in freezer, that's not in temperature and what's happening. Is we've got a freeze up problem the operators froze so we're going to get a defrosted and then proceed from that point. Right now we're getting our hoses and everything ready and I'm going to go click it into a defrost while we're doing all of that, so this one's labeled, walk-in freezer and what I'm noticing is when I click it into a defrost, listen see a second ago.

I clicked right out of a defrost, let's see if I can get it to do it again, doesn't look like it's gon na. Do it again, but I think that there might be a problem with the limit switch, because when I turned it, they clicked in the defrost it immediately clicked out. So we're gon na test it and see what happens. We're gon na get it into a defrost test.

All the defrost heaters and all that good stuff, I'm gon na, go ahead and increase the time for now and I'll make sure I put that back to normal that way it runs extra long. This is a really old disconnect and it's a main disconnect with multiple fuses. So this one everything's been bypassed. So what you got to do, let's turn it off, and then you got to pull the fuses to do whatever you need to do, but I'm not ready to pull those quite yet.

So what I'm doing right now, because we're not done yet and it's it's! It's terminating defrost and I don't want it to so. We're gon na verify voltage real, quick and then once we make sure voltage is turned off then we'll disconnect the x-term and I'll tape it up and then turn it back on and let it keep running in a defrost while we're taking everything apart. So I pulled the X taped it up, so I can turn it back on now, so I got it back up and running. It's raining right now, so we need to make sure we put all electrical covers back on: there's no potential of electrical damage because of the water getting in anywhere I'll leave my stuff over here and yeah, and I want to point out that this right here this Our twelve compressors for their walking cooler, we are working with the one that has olive oil for a for the walk-in freezer.

It is kind of funny, though we still run in our 12:1. We still have it out there and that one still actually has our twelve cross. Your fingers, we haven't, have any problems, so we're going to go ahead and click this guy back into defrost. So what we want to do is we want to get back in here and we want to look at the defrost heater, so this particular one.

This is our heating element wire and obviously it's gon na have an in in and out right, because the heaters gon na have two sides to it right. So we need to test the amperage on at least one of these two wires going to the drain heater. Then there's another heater: he didn't own it. If you look.

These are our elements right here coming through this thing, so that's one heater on the top and then there's one in the middle, so we just need to get an amp clamp and test amperage. So that's the bottom one then that's the middle one. Then I think this is the last one right here. That's the last one.

So all three heaters have amperage, which is good. So that means that our defrost heaters are working, so we're gon na go ahead and continue to shut everything off and defrost it now with the hot water. So the defrost heaters are still running, but you can see, we've got a nice freeze up going on. It's a nice tight box, so some pretty good ice stuff going on in here and then over here to get stuff going on in there to push the main sheet metal cover.

But we'll get this all defrosted and then figure out why this is all happening and what's going on so I've started using this wand that I use to clean condenser coils for deicing, walk-in, freezers and the really cool thing about it is is that you can control The flow very easily the full blast to low just by simply moving this toggle right here and you're, not holding a thing that you can lose control of like on a normal hose. So I'm finding that that helps and you can control your flow and not make such a mess with it. So it's working out really nice and again all I'll link this down in the video show notes. Okay, so we're all defrosted.

I did realize that there's another defrost heater there that I didn't realize so we'll have to check that one too. So there's actually one two and there's a one heater in the top one heater on the back of the coil in the middle one heater on the back of the coil on the bottom and in a drain, pan heater. So there's a total of four heaters in here, but we got it all defrosted, I'll defrost it in here it's a little bit of grease buildup on the back, so we're gon na clean that and then we got back in the expansion valve section got it all Defrosted in there too so now, we're gon na put it back together and then clean out a little bit of grease off the back and then start it up and try to diagnose as to what happened here. If it's just the defrost clock or what? Because I did notice that when I got here, the defrost clock had the wrong time on it.

And this thing they have no ability of turning off the power downstairs, so that defrost clock should have the right time. And it said, like 2:00 p.m. when I got here at 8 a.m. so it's definitely something going on there.

So we're definitely gon na change the defrost clock, but then we're gon na that you know check everything else out. So we're gon na go ahead and replace this defrost clock with the grassland defrost clock. Now I go between which ones I use sometimes I'll put these in sometimes I'll put the grassland in the reason why I'm putting the grassland in is because I need a more aggressive, defrost strategy because they constantly keep freezing this box up and we can usually never Find anything wrong now, this time granted the defrost time clock had the wrong time, but we're gon na put one that I can put some defrost in the middle of the night. Now on this one.

Okay, this is a Paragon on the Paragon your defrost have to be the same all throughout the day. Okay, so if I set it to a 28-minute defrost, which is typical, you know you've got to do the same 28 minute defrost everyday. Now. What happens if I want to do a 15 minute defrost at 11:00, and you know 20 30 minute defrost at 7:00? That's why I like the grassland.

So I'm not saying I like either better than the other. They both serve a purpose and in this instance, we're gon na use the graslie, the top snaps in those holes into those grooves, nice and good. Okay - and this is an auto voltage - it's a DT, a V, so it's an automatic voltage detection. So we just hook up power.

Now this one yeah, just let's go and hook it up and see what happens. Okay, so we're gon na go ahead and turn on power. Now that we're done changing the clock powers back on then - and we should be running so to do this - go ahead and check our refrigerant pressures, see we're pulling into a vacuum and we just shut off. One thing we need to worry about is the pressure control settings a little wonky because we shouldn't be pulling into a vacuum before it shuts off, but that's not our problem right now.

So let's go ahead and this thing should be running. So, let's check with a meter now remember: 4. + n is our refrigeration circuit and 3 + n is our defrost circuit. So being that we have a green LED light and I realized that the camera doesn't show that, but we do have a green LED light.

We should be in refrigeration circuit and the fact that we're not in defrost so 1 2 n gives you what zero volts. I'm sorry. You went for 2, so one to end, we've got 280 volts for it in we have zero volts. Now? What about 3? To n 3 to end zero volts, now put it in defrost, just click the pins right, they'll get the triangle hold on.

I just won't be there: okay, now quick it. Actually, it's yeah check three to end. Oh well, it's cycling out a defrost because the ex terminals hooked up and it's warm inside - that coil more than likely, is what's going on there. But but why are we not in refrigeration mode? Is the question so check with your meter again? Remember one two and you should have voltage two away volts between 1 to M or to end nothing okay.

So let's look at your schematic here. What's going on, we need to jump over. Show me that on here, okay, that's right! So we are missing our jumper. That's acting as our common for the switch leg for the refrigeration circuit, so we need to go ahead and power down, put that jumper between there and then power it back up, double checking to make sure voltage is off and that our disconnect switch is working and It is you have 0 volts, so you're, safe, so you're gon na run the jumper from number one to number two and then now you've powered the comment for the refrigeration switch lake.

Just because I'm a paranoid weirdo tighten the terminal for the one we're not using the F terminal. I just don't like losers. It really doesn't do anything and nothing. Bad is gon na come of it.

I just OCD okay, so we're gon na go and turn power back on now. Okay, we're not pumping down anymore. Let's check voltage the one to end 1. 2 n gives you 208 or fat or 216, where you going now before 2n 216.

That's our refrigeration circuit! Now, free to end zero, now put it in defrost and see what happens? Nothing! Okay, because more than likely we are the x-term''' l is getting power. So if we go between X and 1, you have 215 volts. So that's telling us that you're getting the X terminals preventing us from going into now, let's go ahead and put it into defrost. We pulled the X wire off and a red light came on and we went in the defrost.

So we just proved that the ex terminal is getting power coming back up and preventing us and our units going in to pump down right now, and we also need to adjust this low-pressure control. Because if you notice it's gon na pull into a vacuum right now and we shouldn't be pulling that low should be pulling to about five psi and then shutting off. So we made an adjustment on the pressure control. We're gon na see what we cut out at now.

Sometimes, you've got to make a couple adjustments, so so it doesn't look like it's the right setup yet we'll make another adjustment. Okay, we made another adjustment, we're gon na check the cut in pressure. Now I just slightly crack the valve, so we can see where it turns on and you got to understand. Digital gauges have a lot of latency in them and okay, so we cut in about 17 and let's see where we cut out five psi.

I kind of like to see the 17 go a little bit higher, but we're just gon na leave it it's not short cycling. So I've got the unit in defrost and we're waiting for the coil to be the unit to pop out of defrost. So we can test the fan, delay. Okay, so we've got our defrost schedule set up.

So we do a typical defrost every six hours for a half an hour. Then I threw a couple extra defrost in the middle of the night, just to be safe and then one in the middle of the day, and this is the cool thing about using the grass one is because I can make them. Do anything now understand that this system is electric defrost and it's time and/or temperature Terminator, meaning that we we go into the defrost via time and it can either timeout out whatever the setting is. So this one right here is gon na be a 30 minute V, Plus each one of those pins is 15 minute increments, or if the temperature down in the coil gets high enough, the limit switch will terminate the defrost via sending power up on our external.

So it's time and/or temperature terminated so that the temperature is more or less a fail-safe. So that's pretty much it we're gon na go ahead and wrap this one up tell the customer to keep an eye on it, and I also put an arrow on it pointing to this condensing unit over here. So we know it's one. The walk-in freezer is okay, so walk-in freezer.

That was obviously frozen up and wasn't temping for correctly. So we went through and we found when I first arrived. I noticed that the defrost clock had the incorrect time on it. Okay, this particular system - the customer - does not have the ability to shut off a breaker.

So there's no reason for that time: clock to have the the incorrect time. Okay, we our service companies, the only service company that works on this and we're not over there. Turning it off and on the same note, if, if it was a power related issue, then when I looked at all the other defrost clocks on that same rack, they should have been off the same amount of time and they weren't okay. So that indicated to me that more than likely or that we had a bad defrost clock, but we still went ahead and defrosted it.

We change the defrost clock. We also checked the limit switches. The fan delay to make sure that the fans were delayed and we know that the X terminal was working. So we went through the operations of the limit switches.

I thought at first. Maybe there was something wrong, but after testing them everything was good. With the limit switches, there was a lot of grease buildup on the back of that evaporator, which wasn't good. We brought that up to the customer in general that evaporator is in really bad shape and the expansion valve, I believe, is going bad on it because it's not evenly feeding the evaporator coil its operating.

So I wasn't going to replace it at this time. I did bring it to the customers attention, I'm really trying to get them to replace that equipment, because that's a very, very old system - and it's just nickel and diming them. Basically, so we're in the process of talking about a quote and potentially changing the equipment out. But you know we'll leave that in their hands it's working for now and everything else is good.

I just want to say thank you guys so very much for taking the time to watch these videos. I really appreciate it. You know and also too I want to note that on this one I had another guy working with me and you know I was letting him do some of the work and I let him make a few mistakes so that way he could learn from them. Okay, so catch you guys on the next one: okay,.