This was a video where I returned and replaced a bad TEV on a walk in freezer. The system had a really bad design that made me have to recover the charge to change the drier.
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This video is brought to you by spore'ln quality, integrity and tradition. We are back today and we're gon na go ahead and make this repair. This is our walk-in freezer that the super heat was too low had caused an issue. So what we've got to do because of and I'll pull it apart and remind you guys, but because of the way this thing is piped, we got to recover the gas to go ahead and change the dryer, so I'm gon na get the unit pulled.
Apart got my tools roped up onto the roof. My recovery tank right here is pressurized with nitrogen. It's my area, if they, actually, that was in a vacuum, so I'm gon na make sure it pulls it into a better vacuum. If they have plastic on them, they typically mean that they're in a vacuum.
If they don't, then they're, usually nitrogen pressurized. So I must have pulled this one down, but since I opened it I'll go ahead and I planned on hooking up the vacuum pump, anyways and so I'll pull it into a deep vacuum. Then we'll go ahead and get the recovery equipment, hooked up, recover the charge out of this unit and changing expansion valve solenoid valve and temp control and then put a new liquid line, filter dryer inside glass and we're gon na move it to the other side of The valve, so that way we can use the existing valve. That's in here I'll show you guys in a minute has a king valve, so the plan is recover.
The charge out of this unit and the reason why we have to recover the charge is because look there's no valve before the dryer. There's no king valve right. There there's actually what would be called a king valve right here, but the dryers between that and the receiver. So there's no way to pump the system down to get all the refrigerant out now you could pump it down via this, but then the refrigerant would be stuck from this side back.
Basically, so we're going to go ahead and recover the charge out of this guy. We're gon na get this redone we're gon na put the sight, glass and dryer on the other side here now and leave this valve where it is, and then that way we can use this as a king valve for the next time. So, while I'm waiting for the vacuum on the tank, I noticed that the unit had turned on, so I went ahead and front seated this valve and pump the refrigerant down. So now all the refrigerant should be stored.
Basically, back here, it looks make it quicker to recover, so I'm not pulling down from the evaporator coil. So I can go ahead and hook on the VCR. Tease vacuum cord removal tools pull off the Schrader core. I don't know if I can get on this one without taking the valves off, but I might just hook it up on this one we'll see, but all the refrigerant should be mostly in the high side.
So actually, I probably don't even need a VCR T on this, because there's just going to be a little bit of refrigerant vapor in the low side. So understand that since I front seated this valve right here, the system continued to run and it pulled all the refrigerant out of here out of the liquid line. And it came all the way back up through the low side in the valves and the compressor kept pumping until the pressure got low enough and this low pressure control right here cut the system out. So, theoretically, there should only be like 20 or 30 psi down in the evaporator. All the other refrigerant should be up here in the condenser. This is stupid. This valve the way that it works. Is it basically gives me the pressure reading on this side of the valve? So if you look, I've got it pumped down, but I've only got seven psi of pressure, so this Schrader port is coming from this side and not from this side again be so much better.
If we had a traditional King valve on the receiver, so I am gon na have to open this up. I can't run it pump down because I won't be able to recover anything. I'm gon na have to open this up and then recover, while it's open. Basically, so we're gon na open that back up you'll see your pressures rise as I open it, and the system is going to turn back on as soon as the low pressure control senses the right pressure there you go so I'll, just open this all the way And then shut off the that's unit and just recover from both high and low.
I went ahead and hooked onto here, so I can get the Schrader portal and we'll get recovery. Now I'm not pulling very much refrigerant, so I'm just gon na go ahead and pull through my gauges instead of using the mega flow. So I've got my high side open and my process hose open. So I have pressure here.
I have this loose so that way I can go ahead and open this up. Let the pressure kind of come out of here lead the refrigerant or the air out of the line. Okay, so now we're good and then I can go ahead and open this up. Now I have an empty tank here and I know that this system won't take any more than 21 pounds, which is the maximum amount, I believe, of our car for for a that.
This tank could take. So I don't have my scale up here, but I will weigh it when I go downstairs if I need to, but you always want to be careful, make sure that you don't over fill these tanks. There is an amount that you can overfill it, and then it can be dangerous, so you want to make sure you're not over filling them. Okay, so I can go ahead and open this up once most of the death pushes into the tank I'll go ahead and turn it on and I'll go ahead and burn the tank to running now, I'm just waiting for it to recover.
I am gon na wait till the high side gets at or near the low side pressure. Then I'll open up the low-side port. I've already done everything I could up here. I started sanding everything we'll get everything cut out, I'll, go down to the van and get some materials, I'm just trying to make use of my time and be as efficient as possible to make this whole process go faster, got a bunch of stuff up here.
All my tools and crap we're definitely pulled down negative 15, so we'll go ahead and close this guy off turn the Machine off, get everything taken apart and then we'll explain where we're gon na go from there we're going to get a nitro purge on this bad Boy I got the solenoid valve opened downstairs, we'll get the gauges out of the way. Okay, we are purging nitrogen through when you're perching. In a situation like this, it's not going to be perfect, because some of that nitro is going to start coming out. The easiest spot, which is gon na, be wearing out perfect way to get the mansion into food, especially once you have things yeah. At this point we can ascertain sweating things. I run a number two tip, so I kind of got a little bit of a hot flame, but I use number two for almost everything. Remember we're going to try to utilize the existing valve, just kind of get everything fight we'll start coming together and you guys will start understanding what I'm doing here right now, just tiny little tape measure from Lowe's. It comes in handy when you're dealing with this kind of stuff, so what we need is an estimate as to where we need this bender make this fit in there, and I say about right there.
Actually, I don't have to you, got one a little bit low, but there's there's something I'm gon na do to make it up so it'll be okay! That's going to push into that! It's actually going to get cut right down the middle, going to put a but 3/8 schraeder fitting there. So I can see high side pressure in the system. A more company good pressure there going here, just gon na thread it on there by finger, and then that's. Oh well, I don't have another clarinet, so I got to use a premade flare like that's like better.
You know I'm not going to tighten the dryer in yet we're just going to leave it there so that we can be brazing with nitrogen flowing through sandpaper to stand apart. That's that everything else is good. We can go ahead and raise everything in I'm using a 15 % cell Foss, I'm actually using the solder weld round. Logs are pretty nice, so I have the tower on the sill.
Annoyed belt still opened downstairs, so the night even has a place ago. They've moved on me, but it's okay still there at this point I've got the dryer installed. I haven't tightened it down, yet I'm actually gon na. Let everything cool, everything's, braised in I'll inspect, all my braised joints and we're ready to go downstairs and change.
The expansion valve and the solenoid valve in the temp control. So all right. This is the one that the expansion valve was flooding the coil out. So I made temporary adjustments.
I ran it in and out a bunch of times got it to free up whatever was in there, but we're changing the valve over to a spoilin, probably gon na go ahead and change. The still annoyed valve also and then put a new temp control, because I don't like that style and they're, not very accurate. So at this point I've got the power turned off on the roof. I'm going to start disassembling everything then we'll size up the valve and figure everything out all right. So I have a document here. I just google search HT PG, which is heat transfer product group. That's who makes this evaporator coil and our evaporator coil model number. We got to scroll down to the right model: number, it's a low profile unit cooler and it's a twenty six.
Ninety two is our model number designation. If we go right here to negative ten room, negative twenty suction, twenty six, ninety two s and 9200 BT, u coil and it says to use an a cartridge balance port expansion valve. So that's what we're gon na use! So I've got my spoilin B Q kit right here, go ahead and open it up, we'll find our body style we're gon na use the e BQE body we're gon na use a Katie 43 SZ Sam zebra low temp, and we need to use an a cartridge For the cartridge, so that's an A or a blue. So here's the blue right here so we'll use that we'll assemble the valve.
The the kit comes with all the goodies comes with the oil and a little note. So we'll get this guy assembled when I'm done assembling them I'll put the boxes back in there and put an X on it and then that way I know I need to replenish those another thing I need to point out. Is this: isn't the normal BQ case? This is actually a prototype. One, that's Orlin is having me test out with a super heavy-duty case.
I really like it because it's like a waterproof design give me your thoughts in the comments. What you guys think do you think this heavy-duty case is nicer. It doesn't quite fit on a standard van shelf, so I do have to have a bungee that holds it and it doesn't fit and set down basically, but I think it's a pretty nice case and it's a pretty pretty heavy-duty. So, okay, so I've got ourself purging with nitrogen.
I'm gon na go ahead and stand up and cut. Everything out is that I can as much as I can and then we'll have nitrogen and there the whole time because there's a lot of moisture in this box. It's very cold in here, so I'll, try to assemble it and keep it assembled as much as possible that we were keeping moisture out of the system to try to prevent a longer vacuum. Basically, so everything prepared make it easier, cleaning everything we're not having to do a bit later.
Remember if it's something bad can happen, it will so you should always assume that shits gon na go sideways, so just be ready for it. Okay: okay, there's that let's go ahead and cut this down, there's that it's going to get this out, there's a whole valve! Put that purge all in making this, so this guy need a bend all the way down nice and tight. The solenoid belt was moving on me so solve that problem yeah more than enough solder, I'm usually really liberal on my solder good job. Okay, now I'm gon na go upstairs clean up down here and go get the vacuum running and then I'll come up and do electrical stuff all right, we're in the process of running the vacuum right now remember I got the solenoid magnet downstairs. My vacuum is that six thousand microns I'm gon na, let it run for a few more minutes and then I'll close, the gas ballast and then we'll be vacuuming down and then I'm gon na start doing electrical downstairs. And then I have someone coming up here. To start fixing this insulation on this line right here all right, so I valves in sensing bulb nice and good I'll get some zip ties and secure that sensing bulb mounted over here will insulate it here in a few minutes, tighten it up. It's a little bit loose so I'll snuggle up.
I still got the magnet on here because we're pulling the vacuum yeah, I'm just wrapping it up. I'm gon na mount the temp control now and wire up the sill and wind up and get that going all right. So we are back together, cleaned up everything's in there nice and safe insulated thermostat bulbs up on the wall up here, probably do something to clean that up a wee bit or something I'll figure that out. That's something else install that, but yeah, so we're gon na test power right now make sure the solenoid valve opens and closes I'm in the process of charging this guy and remember that, with this micron gauge, it can take positive pressure.
So basically, you leave it on there until you put pressure in the system and then you take it off so now we're just kind of letting gas into the high side. I have the liquid line. Solenoid valve shut downstairs, so my low side is not coming up yet and I'm just dumping charge in there as much as it'll take and then we will start it up and clear up the sight glass started it up. It's gon na take a minute, we'll go ahead and clear up the site.
Glass, our box tip actually didn't come very high, so we're gon na. Let it run for a minute and then all right. So now I can actually see the head pressure as it's pumping down. So I front seated this valve pumped it down just to make sure that it would pump down and we're good.
So I can go ahead and open it back up now and we know that it actually works and we can watch the sight glass. Clear up. Sightglass is running clear. I didn't even put all the gas in the system there's still a little bit in the tank, but I am going to clean the condense or two just to be safe, because I can't see light through it, but it's running I can feel air.
My pressures don't look horrible, it's about a hundred degrees outside right now, so my condensing temples running about 30 degrees over ambient yeah. You know I'm gon na clean the condenser first and then we'll check on it a little bit more, but we're looking good and the system is all running. We'll put it together we'll make sure that this cap always stays on the outside to protect the glass from the Sun, and I'm gon na start wrapping this up. So we were able to clean the condenser. It actually was rather dirty we're still running a clear sight. Glass ahead, the condenser still wet so the head pressure is really low, but it is going to come back up but yeah we're looking good, clear sight, glass. So I'm not going to add any more gas. We're gon na go and put this guy together and call it a day, basically go down and check to make sure that the thermostats accurate.
That's the last thing I'll. Do we can't really check evaporator superheat, because I'm not gon na wait for it to come down to temp will check it. The next time we come out, but usually these valves come preset for about 8 degrees. Super neat when it's a low temp valve.
So we should be good, so go to thermometer back here, says eight degrees and then we're gon na check the thermostat see whether it turns on and off alright, so we're going to turn it and see where it clicks up. Okay, so we want to maintain they weren't about negative five in this box. They don't really keep much ice cream in here, so it is a little bit off. These things are never 100 % accurate, so you've got a field adjust them.
This should be good all right, so this was just a typical. You know return visit. I changed an expansion valve on a walk-in freezer. You know I showed the link if you haven't watched the first video feel free to go back, but in the very beginning of this video there's a link to the first video.
But initially we had a service call where the Box wouldn't temp right. What I found was that the superheat, the expansion valve basically was flooding back to the compressor. It wasn't. Allowing the Box come down to temp, properly, went ahead and made some adjustments temporarily got them operational.
Got approval to come back out change the expansion valve dryer. All that good stuff - and you guys saw that inside the video okay - not really too much going on here. I did end up going back the next day. Actually, because I had a service call on their ice machine, so I was able to go ahead and check the superheat and we were good, like I thought box was down to temp the next morning.
No problem, I imagine it was down to temp about two hours. After I left it, just was gon na take a little while and I didn't want to waste any more time, so nothing too crazy. In this one out of preference. I went ahead and changed the expansion valve and I'm sorry out of preference.
I ended up changing the temperature controller and went ahead and changed in still annoyed valve, just because I was going to be in there repiping everything anyways changed everything over to spoiling components for the expansion valve. One of the the pluses about the spoil and expansion valve is is that if we ever have a problem again, we can take the valve apart. We can change the power head. You know the other valve, you could take the bottom off, but you couldn't change the power head on it if it was problematic plus I really don't care for those Alko emerson valves, they're, they're kind of a pain in the butt, in my opinion, but that's just My preference, I like the spoil and stuff much more dependable in my opinion, so and I really like the fact that I can have my balance port kit or my build a valve kit, basically bqk derby kit and be able to you, know, orc you body kit. I guess you couldn't, you would call it or the BQ kit, so the the Q body is a standard valve. The BQ is the balance port kit, but I like being able to have that - and I could just basically build any valve that I want it's really nice so but yeah that's pretty much it guys. I really appreciate you guys taking the time to watch this video. Any questions throw them down in the video comments.
Send me an email, hvac our videos at gmail.com. You can find me on the different social media platforms under HVAC our videos. I do live streams Monday night's work permitting, meaning that if I get off in time and works not too busy, then 5:00 p.m. Pacific time.
I go live on YouTube and I answer all kinds of questions and stuff. So just pay attention to my channel. You should see some notification pop up and we will catch you guys on the next one. Ok, thanks so much.
Sponlan/alco valves suck. when failing they flood! a Danfoss does not fail often, but when it does it shuts off. also the Danfoss kit is much more refined and needs no oil or rubber gaskets. Great job though Chris, really like your videos. Nice to se how its done in other countryes
No reason to recover it?? Just use the existing liquidline valve to pump down. Then if needed just add another drier on liquid line after king valve
and you must wet rag solenoid valves… of Danfoss type, they have a fibre disc inside that can melt.. dont know about sporlan soleoid though
Hello friend!….That cooling putty…..I haven't seen that before…what is it called and I purchase some from United Refrigeration or Baker Distributing?
The one thing about cases i have never understood is why on earth can't they decide which standard to use? I get they don't want to pay licensing fees for proprietary standard but there are so many open ones as well…
All my Tools are in L-Boxes, they are awesome, durable and very practical because to connect to each other and i don't think Bosch owns that standard because there are certain other tools that can be had in L-Boxes too.
Really like that new carry case for the txv kit they should stick with it in my opinion
Dude! That case is sweet!
Expansion valves and power heads. Nice sporlan kit. Good job.
21 minutes when you need three hands…
Dude, your channel rocks! you truly are a great technician, for real. I'm gonna watch all of your videos, keep it up brother! Are you in Kanata ?
Looking at the indoor fans it actually looks like a condenser it self looks like it’s built the same way as a condenser unit
I really enjoy your videos. I always remove the line set quick connect fittings, they tend to leak. Service area Ottawa??
I did my apprenticeship not in service but in building chillers, mostly for laser cutting application. Happened that I also did half a year doing service work and after watching a lot of videos on your channel I am so disappointed how much harder the job got for my colleagues and me just by not having tools nearly as sophisticated as you can present here on this channel. Such small stuff like a micron gauge that has no problems with positive pressure, so it can be easily removed without disturbing the vacuum.
Stuff I had to verify complicated or had to make assumptions on, you can present clearly just by using the right software and probes. If I ever have to go back I take a huge amount of inspiration from your videos. Service area Nepean??
Have you ever thought about fitting Carel EEV'S to any of your walk in cold rooms and freezers?
You make it look easy!! Good job! Are you in Orleans ?
We call em TXV here 😁
Subwoofers beware of the Nitro tank. That's a deep bass drop.
We only use straight acetylene turbo torches here , they work well and I don’t have an 8” flame spitting past my weld, why does everyone use oxy acetylene ? There is no right or wrong, just wondering.
Damn you man! West coast wanted to find a fault with east coast but you didn't let us! Go easy next time.
Very nice good job
what is that thing he's using ? VCRT? on the king valve?
Another comment in regards to the sight glass. Put it upstream of the filter dryer. With age and use, the filter dryer can cause a pressure drop and flash gas even while the charge is correct. With a roof unit the weight of the refrigerant will take care of the flash gas before reaching the expansion valve below. Are you in Barrhaven ?
I was taught to reduce oxygen slightly on the torch from a neutral flame to prevent an oxidizing flame that leaves pinholes, and the envelope of the flame will flux the copper removing the surface oxide. It is hard to tell in the sunlight. Are you running a small feather? I think you are as it is larger than a typical cone. The copper fluxed very nicely in the envelope.
The right way to do this is to purge nitrogen when brazing and your pretty much the only person outside of school I’ve seen braze with nitrogen ! Love you videos cause everything is done right and no short cuts cause shorts cut equal bad work
you could turn the liquid line valve around backwards, but I doubt there's not enough space to use the service ports.
I wonder if it was just an engineering error, but more likely to be cost cutting tomfoolery. Service area Orleans??
Nice Job
Walk-in coolers I like to use Penn A19 electronic controllers. I get tired of screwing around with those manual thermostat since not much more work. I have a wire ferrule kit on my truck that makes it really easy 2 hook it up into that small wire connections. Walk-in freezers we have a few of those are not as critical but if you had a freezer that was a critical temperature I would put a electronic control in that as well
Keep the videos coming! Great job
There is a rotating knife in those Webster pumps that takes the place of the filter screen.
better to start brazing upstream of nitrogen , just a suggestion, good videos
Wha a stupid mfg's design using a worthless receiver. Why wouldn't you just sell them a new one since you got the gas out?
I always avoid putting the solenoid valve inside the evaporator case if possible, it just makes everything too crowded and uncomfortable to work on… I realize this was a R&R and you were trying to get it done, so I’m not bitching at you Chris… I’ve seen those receivers with no king valve, wonky setup, probably designed by an engineer who never was in the field before. Good video, thanks!
One of the hobby guys that I watch does this thing where he takes his solder and bends it into a rough ring then slides it over the piece he wants to solder. how well or bad would that work in a situation like this?
Those nitro regulators are the best! Love those things.
Did you get a new camera? This video seems to be much higher quality than some of your others. It looks great, keep it up!
#266 Thumbs UP Service area Kanata??
no wet rag on the solenoid valve? I will drop an evap unit to work on a bench – takes longer but I get it built up nice
I really enjoy your videos. Thanks!
At some point it seems like the fix to a flooding valve was just to add more refrigerant 🤷♂️
Just curious do you use stay-silv or stay-clean flux?
I would rather be accused of using too much brazing rod versus chasing leaks. All the guys that ever bitched about my brazing chased leaks. Guys that do not know the difference between brazing and soldering and thinking a braze joint should look like a solder joint; plumbers?!?! Lol.
Chris do you know anything about pro press. Basically dose not use a torch or flux
NICE VIDEO DOUT! YOUR LUCKY, IAM WORKING ON STEAM AND HOT WATER BOILERS NOW.
AT THE 5-6 MINUTE MARK YOU REMIND ME OF "REPO NUT", GOOD STUFF. THANKS.
Going from Frozen hell to literal hell must be a bit of a system shock.
hi chris –has always great video thank u so much —-that boxe looks very very nice and relabel
Gotta love the Ol Mechanical tstat. Good vid
Your not alone l was always favor of Sporlan wasn’t big on on Alco valves.Why didn’t use a electrical thermostat haven’t use an A19 mechanical thermostat for over 10 years them thermostat they get out of calibration essentially when you have the heath inspection .
I've seen what happens to a over pressure car ac unit. Kaboom .
I thought about getting that umbrella. Johnstone’s has it. Is it pretty sturdy? Are you in Nepean ?
Enjoyed the shorter outro. Thanks for the informative videos. Service area Barrhaven??
Always complete and thorough though you don’t address the real issue. Again, no pee trap! On your last one like this the system was full of oil when you did the repair including changing out the TXV valve. Simply adding the required pee trap would prevent the oil staying in the evaporator coil and more specifically restricting the expansion valve.