This salad table got a much needed upgrade including an over sized receiver and some cooling fans. all with the big picture in mind.
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This video is brought to you by spore'ln quality, integrity and tradition. If you guys work at a supply house - and you do that - crap stop it, they wrote on these with a permanent marker. The part number that's dumb. So now I got ta sand that off now granted I had to sand them anyways, but don't write on my fittings.
So today we are gon na, be replacing this leaky and receiver right here. The packing and everything's leaking on it. I'm gon na go in with a bigger receiver and then we're gon na. Do some upgrades to this unit to help with pooling I've got some cooling fans we're gon na put right here and we're gon na go out there.
What you see right there is the condensate drain pan here the water is boiling out of that thing right now, so that doesn't help, but that's part of the reason why we're adding is cooling fan all right. I've got the gauges opened up. All the way to here got this guy loose right here, we're gon na purge. We get all the air out we're gon na.
Let it push in what it can and I'll turn on the machine. She's gone, everything's open! It's not going to take long, because this thing doesn't take much the entire time I'm working, I'm trying to be as efficient as possible. So I got the receiver loosened up, got the nut off the bottom. I'm gon na have to do a bunch of repiping, but I sand it up right here, so I can cut I'll probably end up having to eliminate that completely.
But it looks like we just hit vacuum so we're gon na go ahead and shut down the net. All go ahead and turn off the Machine. You can see, there's a noticeable size difference. I like to go bigger with the receivers, because we always have a hard time pumping units down now this one isn't a remote.
So it's not as critical, but just because we were having head pressure problems, so I'm putting cooling fans and a bigger receiver and the receiver was leaking all compacting and everything right there. So fire! You always want to be careful where you set down your torch tip, because the tip of it could be hot and you don't want to ruin their floor, especially if a B Block C floors just gon na thread this on temporarily, on the tops that we know It falls in the receiver just finger tight, and then I just need to get my tubing bender we're gon na bend that piece of copper right there when you're cutting the pipe it smashes it down. It helps to read that opening out too so, because when you cut it, it makes it super small lips. If I can show you a piece, I mean it's not horrendous, but you can see the size difference.
This is the one that I haven't rained yet, and this is the one that I did that's why, when you can, I try to score and break it instead, that works, we'll take everything down, I'm going to braise that in fire watch out on the wind and Catch on fire always have a wet towel nearby. By seeing the chair, explain, you're gon na get a wet towel cool it and then we'll start doing the dryer in the top. If you guys work at a supply house - and you do that - crap stop it, they wrote on these with a permanent marker. The part number that's dumb. So now I got ta sand that off now granted I had to sand them anyways, but don't write on my fittings, plus it's just a colossal waste of time. For someone to go to light on every single, fitting good gosh. I can imagine your labor costs. I don't have the right sight glass, so I got to use these bushings.
I've only got a half inch sight glass. All right, we're gon na start, finding some copper fire the solder well round. Why display is be careful? Thousands of plastic, solder, joints or various don't die from here. I just got to inspect everything all right, so we're good.
I'm gon na go ahead and put the player not tighten it and put the rotor lock teflon ring in and we'll start an evacuation on the system so we're getting there. This is the new cooling fan setup. I took the existing louvered cover and had a stainless steel adapter made all right, so I've dumped as much liquid refrigerant into the receiver. While it was still front seated at the king valve and now essentially I'm ready to open up the king valve and let the refrigerant pressure go through the system, so we're gon na go ahead and open it up and then we're gon na watch.
The suction pressure rise as the liquid line solenoid valve allows the refrigerant to flow completely through the system and the low-pressure control just kicked on the compressor and now we're gon na. Let it run you notice that we are flashing up the sight glass right now, so we're gon na go ahead and continue the charge until we get a clear sight glass. The system has stabilised. The sight glass has cleared we're gon na go ahead and empty out.
The refrigerant out of our gauges, so we're gon na backseat, the king valve on the receiver, shut off the refrigerant open up the high side on the gauges, dump all the high side pressure into the low side to try to you know de minimis loss kind of A thing, and now we got to jump on the electrical for the cooling fans all right. This is the condenser side, it's obviously a hot mess in here. What I need to do is I need to verify that we have a constant 120 volt power source that does not shut off via the thermostat or anything we're doing that right now and we're gon na wire in the cooling fans to that. So these cooling fans basically are gon na run 24/7.
Now, instead of running with just the thermostat, because I want them to pull any heat out of this box and here's our final product, the cooling fans are running and you can see that we have them plugged into a receptacle and all as well. So we are finished up now: okay, we had diagnosed the unit to have a leaking liquid line receiver and I went ahead and ordered it and we came back out, but we have always had head pressure problems with this unit. A lot of it has to do with the fact that they stack trash cans on the opposite side. I didn't show it in the video, but there's louvered panels on both sides of the air can flow freely through it. Well, they constantly put a trash can over there, so it causes the unit to go off on high head pressure. On top of that, I showed in the very beginning of the video that we have the evaporative drain pan, that is, you know, boiling the water basically and that's generating heat right in front of the condenser. That was a really smart thought when they designed the box right anyway, so you know we got to do what we got to do with this box. I designed or I came up with the idea of taking the louvered panel off the compressor side, and I took it to my stainless steel shop and I gave them to fan motors and, I said, make you know a weld on a little piece of stainless right.
There that way, I could mount these motors to that, and they did that for me, so we use the existing louvered panel. We just modified it basically, and then I went ahead and found that 120 volt power source. Now you got to be careful, though, because I did add an extra load to the already somewhat overloaded receptacle that this entire unit was plugged into. I think it's plugged into like a 30 amp receptacle but anyways her 25 amp receptacle or something like that.
But you know we made sure everything was good and I chose to wire the fan motors constant. The reason behind that, instead of just wiring them to the you, know, thermostat, which controls the compressor or maybe the low pressure control was because we're constantly stacking those trash cans and no matter how much you tell them, they constantly put the trash cans in there. So I want to keep air moving through this box at all times, especially with the the condensate drain pan over there. That's always running you know, so that's why I run those fans 24/7.
This video is actually filmed probably 4 or 5 months ago. I've just been sitting on it because I had to narrate the last part of it and you know that's why I know everything's been good, so all is well the customers happy. The box has been operating great and that's pretty much it keep in mind guys. I do live streams every Monday evening, 5:00 p.m.
Pacific time work permitting on my You Tube channel, where I usually answer questions about these and also send me an email, the HVAC, our videos at gmail.com. If you guys have any questions, I really appreciate it. Do me a favor guys, it really does help out the channel, if you guys could share these videos with your friends down in the bottom of the show notes. So the video is some affiliate links.
If you guys click on those, it doesn't cost. You guys anything extra and I get a little cut, basically things like 2 % of the sale or something like that, but yeah it really does help out the channel to grow, because obviously I put a bunch of time into these. So every little bit helps but anyways. I really appreciate it guys and we will catch you guys on the next one: okay,. .
Permanent Market can be removed easy with Isopropyl Alcohol, PVC Pipe Cleaner or even the glue or Goo Gone products. It really shouldn't be a problem since you have to clean it before using it no matter what.
When that part number is the only way they can sell you the part. Then you should probably be thankful that they can sell you the part.
i would rather deal with the marker over a glued on sticker or even the waste of a little plastic bag
Waaaaaah, someone wrote on MY fitting which clearly wasn't MY fitting as SOMEONE ELSE placed the fitting, and it's the CUSTOMERS fitting not MY FITTING ANYWAY but WAAAAH I have to do ABSOLUTELY NOTHING but CRY about how someone tried to make my life easier in a way I didn't approve of!
WAAAAAH!
Holy cow, I've gone from binging your videos to hitting "Never Recommend" because of your little baby fit here.
If they can't write on YOUR fittings, should you be allowed to write on THEIR parts? Y'know, since the person working the job apparently gets to use the posessive article when referring to the object they're working on at the time?
Or do you actually own this table and its components, and you lease it out? If so, why was someone else allowed to work on your possession and why weren't you properly maintaining it, you giant manchild?
hi chriss, can you please link those fans with the guards . thanks you rock 👍🏼👍🏼
Fans: good idea 👍
The manufacturers need to make fittings so you don't have to use the torches in those small areas or make torches that have a shield to stop things from burning, it would also be nice if they would make cordless vacuum machines and reclaimers, so you don't have to run extension cords. Good job, Chris. Service area Nepean??
Yes that looks bad
I am thumbs up 1,000!!! 👏 👏 👏 👏 👏 👏
I live his fire shows he can compete with Rammstein
Just wondering. Many soldering manuals advice you to first heat up the pipe and then let the hot pipe melt the solder in order to get a good capillary flow between the pipes. I noticed that you put the solder directly into the flame. Have you ever had any problems with this technique?
Subways have that overheating issue and del tacos always have a disgustingly habit of not cleaning their hot tables 🤬
"Open heart surgery" on a condensing unit. 😊
Why don’t you soldering the big parts on the bench then you have only make one soldering in the unit.
Chris wasn't it better to put the condensing unit outdoors..i mean its an upgrade better for the long run? Are you in Kanata ?
That smoke from the acetylene is really thick and black and sooty, does it not set the smoke alarms off in the kitchen?
What is the reason you use such a high temperature torch for soldering the pipes?
Is it possibly because you have to use a different type of high temperature solder That’s different from solder that’s normally used for just copper water pipes?
they gotta right on them for inventory purposes! if its such a big deal clean them off with acetone!
Alcohol takes off permanent markers
Does anyone else think he uses way too much solder? It would be interesting to cut open a couple of his solder joints to see how much solder is inside the pipe.
When your doing work like this, do you have to have them disable the fire alarm?
I have to ask, do ever find a restaurant that is clean? Are you in Nepean ?
cobalt high speed steel holds a good edge for a long time if you find your self going through alot of regular high speed steel bits switch to the cobalt ones (e size bit is e100s).
Really smart adding those fans!!
First off love your work. But have to ask and may just be the light of the camera. Why don’t you use like a 0 gauge torch tip for more pin pointed heat distribution?
So what’s that large breadboard circuit on the wall behind your head that sometimes blinks?
What are the advantages, or disadvantages of cooling the brazed joint off.
Receiver + expansion valve + headaches on such a small unit, i personally always go with capillary on small ones.this Condensor seems to be requiring an upgrade. i might be wrong as to this case 🙈 Are you in Barrhaven ?
Does the ink just put contamination into the weld? Service area Barrhaven??
Dang youre brazzing that copper very hot;)
Turbo torch, no need for the O2. More condensed flame
Nice job but why not go back factory and be done next
No nitrogen?
Lol got my wet towel next to me you should always have one or a fire extinguisher next you. Ok there now I gotta get a wet towel… rofl
This guys ovously having a bad day I love the videos but I can tell you were rushing Service area Ottawa??
Halo sir gud eve here, I just only ask, how can I avel the leak ditector and how much send to Philippines, if ever.. Thank you so much sir, GOD BLESS
I know next to nothing about hvacr. That being said i know in plumbing you would use flux on the pipe to help with wicking and contaminates. Why don't you use flux on the refrigerant lines?
Dont mean to be that guy but id wet wrap that king valve, especially if its a roto lock. Ive melted a couple of the gaskets in them before. Service area Orleans??
Why should you not write on the fittings?
Silver solder or silver braze ? Sil-Fos comes in different grades : some flow fast, some flow slow and flux is needed on brass. Silver solder is preferred on steel or copper plated steal tube and when high temperature could be a problem. The cheapest sticks will cost you in time spent heating and wicking material into the joint.
Muito bom trabalho!!!
Using markers on the fitting is annoying. What’s worse is the stupid UPC code labels that Home Depot stick on the copper water fittings. You need solvent like acetone to dissolve the left over goo.
Why do you shout fire when you are lighting the torch
rubbing achool will wipe away marker without needed to sand it
It's rare to find a self contained case that doesn't have high head pressure, especially in a restaurant environment.
That one have a LL solenoid? Are you in Orleans ?
Learning something new, nice fan mod! Really appreciate you sharing that!
that is a silly layout, the condensate tray should be downstream of the condenser fan, where it gets blown directly out of the cabinet and not sucked into condenser where it worsens thermal conductivity, more so in a hot kitchen 🙂
couldnt you have swedged the tubing t make it fit? or is the standard size too large to then fit the i.d. ?
one thing about lint and cobwebs, they flash burn very fast, I Once had a basement of cobwebs ignite, before I could even move the torch it flashed a whole area some 20' x 30' very fast, I nearly left a deuce in my drawers 🙂 it made a light smoke cloud and set two detectors off in the basement and 1st floor hallway. nothing else happened/caught because it flashed off so fast and went out.
that was only sweating some 1/2" copper for potable water using small propane torch! from that day forward, I always remove all cobwebs, lint and such from work area.