So this morning we have a service call on a delfield 6 drawer unit. The customer had cleaned out the box before I arrived, so it was all nasty they said, so that's cool first thing I did was check the temperature controller, which is right there and it's turning boats, Illinois dolls on and off next thing I did was pulled. This cover off right here there was a filter on there, it's not too dirty, which is good. The condenser fan motors running, but my compressor is not compressors cold to touch so it looks like there's gon na, be an issue in the starting components or and or the compressor.

Would it be off on low pressure because the condenser fan motor would it be running so we're calling, but the compressor is not turning on that's our problem, so we're gon na pull out the condensing unit and dive into the electrical and see what's going on. So I'm starting to pull this out and sparks when I moved it. So I'm assuming that there's a problem in that's got the potential real and at the start, capacitor blue sparks off the side. So I'm assuming that's where a problem is, but we're gon na get it taken apart, a little bit more and see if we can dive into it.

Okay. So what we've got here is a shorted out wire blew apart. It's interesting we're gon na figure that out we'll repair that and see if the compressor will start back up, looks like it completely melted. The terminal off also looks like there's some water damage in there and where it's been getting wet or something too so we'll see.

We'll check the start cap so in order to test my star cap, we're pulling both the wires off of the relay and where we serve you, that's a 410 euro, farad capacitor, so we're good. So I repaired the wire right here on this little blue one right here and then we're gon na go and get it started back up and see. If this thing right turn the power switch back on and she is running compressor is at least so. I will still put some gauges on here to check the refrigerant pressures and then we're gon na put the drawers back and evaluate the whole system watch it come down in temperature, and then I'm also going to pull this cover off the compressor terminals.

To make sure there's nothing going on in there and at a minimum I'll order, this module right here it comes as one complete assembly they're very hard to get. Nobody stops them locally. So, as a precaution, we'll go ahead and replace that, but hopefully we can just get it running for now we're looking pretty good current pressures, don't see anything jump out of his scaring me. This unit doesn't have a sight glass, it does have a receiver, so you have no way of checking the sight glass so we're just gon na kind of use, a rule of thumb and say 25 to 30 degrees above ambient.

I see no reason to have to adjust the charge. I haven't done anything yet we're coming down to temperature the thermometers. Reading the top temperatures, the left side, the bottom temperatures, the right side, so we'll just make sure that the temp control cuts it in and out. Where it should be, but so far we're looking good, I do want to make sure that those two temperatures did closer together to make sure that when both coils are working so we're gon na watch it for a few more minutes but nothing's jumping out at me.

The manager did tell me that they have like a major blackout over the weekend. I guess that could have caused that electrical short. But to me it looked a little more like water damage. There is a TXV right up here for the coal drill.

I've done work on a similar unit to this, and I explain what happened here. They used to have a hard time, maintaining the temperatures on the top cold realm and the bottom, the compressor controlled both and we actually pulled off the top hole drill and put a condensing unit on the roof. So the top is no longer connected to the condensing unit right here, so this cadets, you know, only runs the bottom section now. So that's why there's a temperature controller and then it's piped all the way upstairs so there's a little bit of a condensation that does leap down.

I guess, theoretically, that could be the cause of our water, but I don't know it just kind of looked like. Can you see the little drips right there? So, let's see if we can't do something to solve that problem? Okay, so we're getting closer to temperature, but I'm not liking how the left side coils at 38 at the right side. This is return. Air 10.

12. 42. Another thing I'm noticing is my compressor superheat as two degrees mind, you that's compressor irrigation. I honestly think that we have an expansion valve for the right size, coil that is flooding, and that would explain why we would have 2 degrees compressor superheat, and that would also explain why one coil is working.

One coil is not so what we're going to do is we're going to open up this coil and investigate the sensing bolt for the expansion of so I've got the coil, open and - and my theory is confirmed now we have to correct it and see if it'll Get better with this expansion valve since a bulb is loose. I can move it around with my fingers. It's not tight, so I'm gon na get in there pull that insulation off and retighten that sense involving see. If we can correct that superheat issue.

So I've got the insulation off and look at some bozo use, zip ties and look at how loose that sense and bulb is on there. So I'm gon na get a strap Andry secure that properly, let alone did they use zip ties. They have it strapped to a weld, so it's not even making good contact so we're gon na correct that right now, much better now and my box temperatures are much more even now to so that expansion thought was definitely the problem as to why I was flooding. Looking good so we're just gon na watch, this thing satisfied, you see.

My super meat is actually 28 degrees, which is much better now and that's compressor super heat. Alright. So to recap, we had a service call on a delfield 6 drawer unit. The unit had an electrical short that originally caused the compressor not to run properly or not to run at all.

I should say so. I temporarily repaired the electrical short found that the unit also had the sensing bulb for the right side. Evaporator coils expansion valve is loose, which was causing extremely low superheat, which was also causing the evaporator not to perform correctly. So we corrected the the problem we tightened up.

The sensing bulb put a proper strap on it insulated it like we should. The superheat came back up into line both the coils started working properly. I ended up coming back about I'd, say a week later, replacing the starting component assembly with its that whole module and cleaning up some of the wiring inside there, but the unit had been working. Fine and everything was going good.

Ok, so you know you can call this multiple offender. You know this is one of those ones where you can't just fix the starting component problem then walk away. I had to watch the Box come down to temperature. I noticed that it wasn't performing correctly, went ahead and corrected the issue and then got the entire unit going.

Ok, so a big picture, as I always say, always look at the big picture. I want to say thanks guys for watching my videos. I recently just hit three thousand subscribers. I really appreciate that you guys are all helping me to get that subscriber count up.

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I have gotten some suggestions and I am working on some. I do have to say that some of the specific suggestions, like someone asked me to make a video on a beverage air cooler. I don't work on very many beverage air coolers, so the moment that I work on one sure I'll make a video. But it's not something that could just pull out.

You know I tend to work on. You know Dell fields and truths and Kai rack units, the majority of them at least the reach-in coolers. So but again, thank you guys very much and we'll see you guys on the next one.