Okay, so we've got a service call on a prep table, not working. This is what I see when I come up here, got a nice chunk of ice and the first thing I do. We have a history of water damage with these guys. So I open up this control.

You see that calcium right there. You can also see the calcium around the lip where it goes and pretty much guarantee we're. Gon na have a water damaged temperature controller, but we're not gon na just focus on that. We're gon na go out and defrost it and do a full diagnosis on the unit and confirm that it's a bad control, so there's a bunch of screws that hold this on, but the only tricky one is this one right here it's hard to get in there.

I use a 5/16 ratchet wrench bust it off and then everything else is pretty straightforward. So it's a cheap process, I'm using a pump sprayer like that with hot water, and I'm just you know, starting at the top of the coil blowing down, make sure I get a nice little girl and it was overflowing the drain. And so I added a piece of hose that we would strain it into a pan now and I can dump it in the mop sink. Instead of making a mess everywhere.

Okay, I'm going to get it all defrosted, but before I put the cover back on, I'm going to do a quick leak check just because I saw that funky ice pattern. In order to do that, I got to turn the unit on and I've got to get the top section running cuz I had it off and then I got ta wait for it to kick on and then once it kicks on. I had it off at the control, so that means it pumped down and there was no pressure on the low side, so once the control kicks on, then I will turn it off with a switch. So that way, the pressures are on both sides and I can do a quickly check, but again, I'm not going to waste a bunch of time, because I haven't even put my gauges on this unit.

I'm just doing this before I put the cup on okay, so I did a quick leak check didn't pick anything up put the evaporator back together, tested the refrigerant pressures. Refrigerant pressures looked good. So now I'm going to go ahead and change the temperature controller because it is acting like a bad neutral. So this is the back side of the box.

The probes run all the way over to the front where the temp controls located they run through here and then into the box and they're kind of difficult because they go through a bunch of different places to get them changed. So here's what I do, I take the old probes and you leave them in there and you tape the new ones to them. And then you carefully pull them through. It makes a bunch of turns and it's nice and smooth, and then you don't have to pull the coil off the wall.

If you cut them and mess up or something like that, then it's not a huge deal, but you've got to kind of pull the foil off the wall and then them in there. So also this gets a cover which is so almost done. So this is the other side. This is the air probe also pay attention to where they go.

The blue one goes in the coil. The black one goes in the air, so I've already pulled the blue one through you, just pull it nice and slow, don't yank on it. If you feel resistance, you need to figure something out because you'll pull the tape off it's starting to get a little resistant. So just get back and carefully pull up here, nice and slow, and there we go.

We just pulled it through so that whole word is actually on the bottom down here. So it's going to come through the hole with a little washer up and then in through there. So that's why it's difficult! So if you mess up - and you don't tape them - you can pull these two screws and these screws and you can bend the coil out of the way I'm fishing through with your hands too, but this Way's just a little bit easier. So I got the cover.

Put back on the wires or ran through properly, they go through a little channel. They come out right here. This is the sensor wires and then we're gon na zip time up to this little chingus right here and we're going to plug down, but I'll get them plug down. First, okay, everything's secured, ran up there and I'll show you guys something on the front too up here in the front on the sensors.

You want to tie a big nine, because one of the things that can happen is people can yank the sensors right out of the temperature controller. So by tying a knot, it's gon na get stuck on that little grommet and won't let you pull the wires out. That's just a little tip: okay doors are back on and it's running you want to keep in mind that the temperature controller has like a three or four minute delay on it. So when you turn it on, you got to give it a few minutes, so we're gon na.

Let it run we're gon na monitor the cutting and cut out temperatures to make sure it's turning on and off where it should be, and then hopefully we'll be done. With this box the time clock there goes temp control just kicked in, so I'm gon na monitor the pressure as bachelor's range and turn it on in about 38 should be a little closer to 39, but it's turning on under 40. So that's what matters and everything's! Looking good refrigerant pressures look good good to go well. That was a service call on a Dell field.

Prep table the bottom section, wasn't working, it had a bad temperature controller. It was bad because of water damage. This is a very constant problem. We have with this particular customer at all of their restaurants, they're constantly ruining temperature controllers because of water damage they're trying to clean their floors.

They splash buckets of water to try to clean the boxes and just the way that they're designed causes the controls to get wet and they go bad trust me. I've brought up to them my ideas about solving this problem and it kind of goes to deaf ears. Nobody really wants to listen to me, so I stopped trying okay, I know of tons of ways to fix this and eliminate this and stop it from ever happening again, but I've brought it up to the customer. I've brought it up to the manufacturer and nobody seemed to bite on my ideas, so I just let it go and stop you know bringing it up to them.

This particular box has a cold rail on the top section, a refrigerated evaporator section down below that has a normal fan: motor okay, the cold rail, is a static pan chiller. So there's no evaporator fan motor. The cold rail is controlled by a pressure control. Okay, that pressure control doubles as a low-pressure safety switch for the entire unit.

Also, okay, so think about that. For a minute, the top section will now run whenever the bottom section is running, because there is no temperature controller for the top section. It uses the low-pressure safety switch. It's just set a little bit higher than normal.

I should say a little bit higher than a normal pump down circuit, so it's set to maintain about 17 degrees in the pan, chiller section so anytime. The bottom section calls for cooling. The top section is going to run too so in the wintertime we actually have nuisance service calls because they tell me that it's getting too cold in the top section. What happens is, is they're usually pretty busy, but it's not very hot in that kitchen, so they're opening and closing the bottom doors a lot and they get problems with the top section getting too cold okay.

So it's just an interesting design. Flaw inside the box anyways the unit's working correctly, everything was good, really appreciate you guys watching my videos give me a thumbs up. Consider subscribing to my channel leave me a comment and we'll see you guys on the next one.