In this video, Joshua talks about why heat pumps need to be locked out with certain HVAC system setups. This means that not all heat pumps need to be locked out when auxiliary heat turns on. Only some systems do! Joshua explains which systems do what and why lockout temperatures need to be set for some heat pumps at all.
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Chapters
0:00 Intro: Heat Pump Lockouts
0:16 Why some systems lockout heat pumps
1:42 Electric Auxilary Heat
2:40 Dual Fuel Lockout
3:48 Head Pressure issues if no lockout
4:20 Outro: Why there are lockouts
#hvac #heatpump #dualfuel

Hey guys, one of the questions I get all the time is based on the lockout temperature on heat pumps and I'll have uh, more homeowners than contractors I Think most contractors understand what's going on, but a lot of homeowners seem to be misinformed on what this is all about and why certain systems lock out the heat pump depending on what the backup heat source is. So what I'm talking about is say if you have a dual fuel system and you have the thermostat or the dual fuel kit or however, it's set up. dual fuel kits are kind of a thing in the past, but some systems still have them. But if it's set up to say lockout at 35 degrees and then switch to the gas furnace, a lot of homeowners seem to think that that is because of efficiency.

They think that if the heat pump is locking out, it's only because the gas furnace is going to be more efficient than the heat pump, and that's why it's locking it out. Now you might argue it is more efficient, right? If the temperatures are so cold that the heat pump is rendered useless or starts to lose capacity, then the gas furnace might be actually more efficient in certain situations. But when we're talking about different types of gases, you know natural gas is still pretty efficient. But you start talking about LP gas and things like that.

It can give it quite pricey to run the furnace. so that's why folks will install dual fuel systems and such. But the reason I think there's so much misinformation with homeowners. or at least some confusion.

And that is because I'll have homeowners asking me what their lockout temperature should be when they have electric backup. And so what? I Started realizing is these folks don't understand why there's even a lockout temperature on a heat pump. So here's the deal. If you have a heat pump with electric backup because the coil is on the return side of the heat strips, the head pressure on the refrigerant will always stay manageable.

Or at least in most situations unless it gets like super warm outside and you're trying to running in heating mode, then maybe not. But in most situations with that coil being on the return side of the electric heat strips, there's no issue with the outdoor unit the heat pump to continue to run even if the electric heat strips are calling. So if auxiliary heat comes on for example, if the there's a two degree discrepancy between the set point temperature and the ambient temperature in the room and the auxiliary heat turns on, there's really no reason for the heat pump to turn off. In that situation, the heat pump is, you know, drawing very few amps in comparison to those heat strips and any little bit of help it can give the better right? And so now in contrast, if we're talking about a dual fuel system, what happens is the coil is on the supply side of the heat exchanger and so the system has to lock out that heat pump system.

Not because of efficiency, not because it's going to save you energy. It's only doing it because of the head pressure on that coil of the refrigerant. The head pressure would get so ridiculously high that it would be locking it out on high pressure anyway, and it would be absorbing so much more wear and tear. So head pressure with I mean if you figure a heat exchanger with a gas furnace, if that temperature rise is say 50 degrees, the head pressure would be ridiculously high when that heat pump is in heating mode.
I Mean you're probably talking. you know, a thousand pounds or more because some systems run over 400. PSI Anyway, in heating mode, when that heat pump is in heating mode, that head pressure on the refrigerant is jumping up over 400 PSI sometimes. So again, just to clear up that confusion, it does not lock out the outdoor unit for efficiency reasons or any other reasons.

It only does it because of the head pressure of the refrigerant. It would just be Sky High You'd be springing leaks left and right because the pressures would be higher than even the design tested pressures that were tested in the factory, for example. So the materials would not be able to withstand those kinds of freshers. and that's why it needs to lock out that heat pump when the gas furnace turns on anyway.

I Feel like I'm might have got a little more technical than I usually do in a lot of my videos, but I wanted to explain that to you. You know if you're a homeowner and you're trying to figure out, you know, setting up your dual fuel system, setting up the programming, or in contrast, setting up a straight all-electric heat pump system, Why there are lockouts, and why that system needs to turn off the outdoor unit before it can turn on the gas furnace anyway. I Hope that helps. Thanks for watching.

If you have any questions, please put them down below. I'll try to get to them. Appreciate you watching. Hit that subscribe button.

We'll see you next time.

5 thoughts on “Heat pump lockout explained!”
  1. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars tomwiles says:

    I have my thermostat set to shut down the outside unit below 27 degrees when the heat strips are producing the bulk of the heat. Should I program the thermostat to "always" run the outside unit regardless of how low the outside temperature goes?

  2. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars AnalogueKid2112 says:

    Finally, a HVAC contractor who actually understands lockout

  3. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars GeoMac Granddad says:

    When I read lockout, I was thinking something sinister like manufacturers shutting down the system because they hadn't registered a service call within a designated timeframe or something silly like that.

    With dual fuel setups the jargon of the day was "changeover temperature". The practice of the day was to set the changeover temperature to the "break-even temperature" which was calculated to be the temperature when both systems produced the same amount of BTU per dollar of energy. Obviously the calculation is not simple for someone not skilled in algebra, unit conversions, and such (otherwise it's actually pretty simple if a little time-consuming).

    Something you probably have seen but always struck me as potentially risky is that when operating above the changeover setting and the heat pump heating, when it goes into defrost mode the gas furnace gets lit up for the duration. I always wondered what that might do to system pressures. I figured it must be okay since the mfr set it up to work that way. 🤔

  4. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Lost Beagle says:

    I'm investing in a coal stove / wood stove with no electrical parts, and linking it to the ductwork going into my air handler. It's going to blow hot air into the ductwork and circulate it through the house. The stove will burn wood or coal. With zero electrical parts, the stove will operate without electricity. There's no way I'm going to sit back while my electric company continues to raise rates 52 percent every 6 months, and the government continues to warn about brown outs and blackouts. Forget that Are you in Ottawa ?

  5. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Philip P says:

    Question I have, how set it for a special DC Inverter heat pump like Midea (24V Conversion kit)/Gree/Goodman York (24V Conversion kit). Since those outdoor units are so efficient (where they maintain their capacity down to -5*F), when do you actually set the lockout for those?

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