In this short and simple video we cover some quick tips for installing a disconnect properly.
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and find our handy calculators at https://www.hvacrschool.com
So we are here today to install a disconnect. As you can see, there was once a disconnect there, but it had been. You know it failed and had been bypassed. So currently it's going directly from the junction box to the condenser.
So we're going to install a new one with a new whip from there to the condenser step. One will be to turn off power and then um, locking and tagging that power out, because we don't want anyone to turn the breaker on while we're working on it. So we'll start with that, first and uh go from there. So now we're just marking out our disconnect location.
Here, we've got the level on top and we're going to get a marker and mark the holes. So we know where to drill for our tapcons and um go to the next step. Okay, so we got our new disconnect screwed on got the wires run up to it. Um these little fittings on there you can usually get on and off with a pair of pliers or a screwdriver, or in my case they got this little handy tool, which does it pretty well, but um yeah.
Now we're gon na get to uh, basically wiring it up here uh we have our loan line and our load our lines gon na, be the high voltage coming into the disconnect. Our load is going to be the lines going to our condenser. This is our equipment. This is our load, so our low's going to go here, line's going to go there and then um what's interesting about this, is the actual panel tells you, depending on the wire size, how much torque you should be putting on those lugs.
So if you have a little torx screwdriver, that's uh, that's nice to have so we're going to wire this up. Alright, so we got the disconnect everything else all wired up here. Last thing: we're going to be doing is sealing the top and sides with some clear silicone that'll prevent water from getting into the back of the disconnect, but will also allow water to drain out the bottom in case any does get inside there. So we're not going to seal the bottom, and then that should be it and that's it.
That is the disconnect replacement. Last part of any repair is to make sure we are running, we are draining and we are good to go and uh see you next time. Thanks for watching our video, if you enjoyed it and got something out of it, if you wouldn't mind hitting the thumbs up button to like the video subscribe to the channel and click, the notifications bell to be notified when new videos come out, hvac school is far More than a youtube channel, you can find out more by going to hvacrschool.com, which is our website and hub for all of our content, including tech tips, videos, podcasts and so much more. You can also subscribe to the podcast on any podcast app of your choosing.
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I think the line side of things could have been more cleaner it look too high from the disconnect to the junction box
Bruh didn’t explain the ground wires lol
funny you spend more time showing us how to caulk the box than you actually do explaining where the wires go!
Looks easy. Thanks. Question: If I wanted another disconnect (for another mini split condenser), can I tap into the same 'line-in' junction box? Both condenser will not be running at the same time. Thanks.
do power lines from service terminate in the line side lugs and out going to the ac run to the load side lugs if so it is wired back wards….please correct me if wrong ….thank you….and do line and load even matter on a disconnect Service area Kanata??
What if I have 2 black, 1 white and a green wire coming from the panel ?
Good explanation my man,Good job 👍
I've seen a lot of technicians install using solid core instead of stranded wire, i know stranded wire is best but i have a hard time explaining why 😂 can anyone back me up on this?
It is Fantastic you mentioned to Torque the lugs! We need to make sure we are teaching that.
We only install plastic boxes outside. Metal rusts pretty fast by the ocean
What is that electrical nut tool?
Silicone is for metal not the outside of a stucco building. Always use caulking as that can be painted and it bonds properly to the stucco. Otherwise good video, I've watched a couple of your videos and there teaching me new ways or different scenarios to install all kinds of systems.
ALL HAIL THE KLEIN LOCK RING WRENCH!!
can the load side be ran with solid wire?
Your videos always have perfect lighting, camera, audio and content. They are informative and succinct. Are you in Ottawa ?
Use a butyl caulk on the disconnect.
UV rays will deteriorate the silicone.
Great job man!! This is a great video for every beginner! Also a great refresher for the experienced! Thank you for including the silicone, although minor it's often overlooked, I'm sure you've seen them yourself out in the field just like I have. Nicely done 👍
Did I miss the breaker install or choosing the size wire or type?? Service area Nepean??
That was an amazing video
Finally, in all of hvac youtube channels, a good video like this. Thank you!!
Now I do appreciate the video but you are the frig'n guys I hate !
Now I don't know where the property line is but can you give me at least 12" between the wall and the frig'n unit ????
And no drip loop required in your area?
Jus say'n
Don't take it personal lol
8 years in
Stay safe.
Wear your safety glasses!
Noice! Lol. Nice clean work.👍 Are you in Barrhaven ?
Lol you didn't show the part I struggle with: knocking the holes out of the bottom of the disconnect box for the wires. I always knock out the wrong ring…grrrr