I'm gon na do a quick, shaky iphone video everybody loves those on setting up this ke2 evap re2 first step is to hit back and right until it displays wi-fi on on the screen and you can connect with a phone tablet or a laptop. So in this case and a laptop i find it so i don't want to pop up my wireless list, but that's what i'm connected to the re2 and the number of the controller. I pop up my wi-fi - you guys will know where i'm at and i'm probably not supposed to include that we got our main board here. You can do all this through the user interface you're, just gon na hate your life, so i would recommend avoiding that wherever possible, i've had an issue in the past, where the controller would not connect wirelessly, and in that case you run a lan cable from your Laptop, so this is a coupler here, so it plugs in on the outside, or if you can get your laptop close enough, you can unplug this and plug it right in to your computer.

We have our suction pressure transducer, our first electronic valve. This is for remote communication, the rs485. We don't care about that. We have suction and coil temperatures and return air temperature there, and here we have an accessory board to hook up another electronic valve at the top there and hook in the sensors, for that so suction.

So the coil and suction pressure there you got ta, make sure all of that is landed correctly in your evaporators, where it needs to be so in this case we're referencing one room temperature and one pressure transducer. So when i first started this up, i was having some alarms, of course, because you got to set your fan current and defrost current, because the cts see that so i got my fan current set. I just went in there and i set it for what it was seeing now, because everything's running normally and i set the range for one amp plus or minus um 10 is recommended, but these you know you're talking about not a lot of amperage here. So i set it for one: the defrost heaters i set it for 10, plus or minus, so i'll run it in defrost i'll test defrost and set that now you just got to make sure you assign all your sensors correctly and that they're landed correctly.

So you'll have to verify all of that we're not going to get into all of that i mean that's basically just tracing out wires and looking at everything, handily everything's labeled here. So what i had to do critical things that i had to do um is i set this thing up for standard electric, so it might be here in the in the set points we can just look at it from you can access it from multiple menus, but We look at important settings, defrost type electric, because that's what we have here valve type one can scroll down, see refrigeration, i'm gon na review the specs and adjust a few of these parameters. But you know here we got pretty much default, except for the room temperature. I switched that i had to program the refrigerant we'll have to play with some more stuff.

They want a 10 degree superheat here it comes factory set at eight, so just go for your specs and go to home and you can adjust that from here. So this comes set. Mechanical choose your valve type of what you're using or you can make a custom one. So i got all that set to my first electronic valve and then my second electronic valve right here.

My inputs, i input 3 - was set for suction pressure. I disabled it and i have it using main control. Sensors! That's going to keep this valve now i had to do the same valve here, refrigerant type, all that stuff, so i disabled the suction pressure transducer, because we're only using one and i'm telling it to use the main control sensors there to control it. So we're running both of our valves based off the one transducer and that's pretty much that see we got our suction temps are slightly different.

So, even though it says it's using the main sensors, that's only going to be for sensors, it's not using for something else. Right so you see our coil temp, it's still using its coil temp and its suction temp. It's just not looking for that suction pressure. As you can see disabled right there on input, three, that's pretty much it for the medium temp.

I would initiate a defrost. So let's go through that and go to defrost and we can do it's set for demand. That's where this customer wants it next mode, so defrost delay fan now our defrost current has gone to 23.7 amps. What is the setting see it now? It just turned into an alarm so we'll go to like 24 amps is where it was and then we'll go to the acceptable range and 10 would be 2.4, but we'll go 2.5 because i'm just that kind of guy.

So it went to drain already. I terminated defrost right away, it felt it didn't need to be in there for me that alarm should go away once it gets out of defrost or that's an alert. The red would be an alarm if we want to get out of defrost faster. We go back to set points.

We go back to defrost and we scroll down and hit next mode. Then it kicks us out again. I think, can we do it from down here? I'm sorry! If the phone's going in and out of focus, there's nothing really. I can do i'm filming a screen, so we'll go to set points again and we'll go to defrost and what mode are we currently in? I forgot to look so our fans haven't pulled back in so we'll go next mode.

All right now we're back to refrigerate. We're in the fan delay there or something i'll have to switch that setting, but that's how you kick it through the steps of defrost to test everything out. So that's pretty much all we have to go over that covers, since this has electric defrost what you would do for a freezer as well. You would just put your set point lower, obviously, and test everything the same way pretty much it on this.

I got to get these things charged up properly and go from there and make sure everything's working right. My suction pressure got a little high. I think my condensing unit, you know what it is. My condensing unit has a time delay and since it didn't spend a lot of time in defrost there, it goes um since it didn't spend a lot of time in defrost.

It was still waiting on that time delay. That's pretty much that for these there's, nothing really to see in there it's just standard evaporators with sensors up to them and electronic valves installed. Hopefully this is helpful. Another installation note to watch out for is these two speed, evaporator fans.

So normally these wires are going from this relay down to here. You can see that on the schematic, it really doesn't matter in this case we're controlling our fans from our ke2 contactor. So we don't have the ability to utilize the low speed fan, necessarily so we're removing that to run the fans in high speed. Only in this application we're only going to be running in high speed from the ke2 and you could just pull these off and the fans will only run in high speed, otherwise they're stuck in low speed, unless you did some rewiring here so just to show this In more detail, i have no provision in this ke2 to run low-speed evap fans with the amount of wires that are run, you would have to have an extra wire run, powered all the time to run those fans in low speed.

Unfortunately, we can't use low fan in the freezer. It doesn't matter really so much and the cooler it might be nice, but either way in this application, can't do it unless we ran extra wires. So that's why we have to unplug those. So one more thing to show we have this wire here, spliced and running to aux 1 function on our main board.

This is a door switch for the freezer, so we're going to look at aux 1 we're going to change it to door switch and we're going to hit save. Now. I think we got ta reverse the output on there. Somehow, let's see active, closed, active open and we'll hit save sorry, it was off screen.

Let me back up here so right now: door switch showing the doors closed. I don't know if you heard the contactor, but door switch was open and now the door just swung back shut on its own. They went back to a closed state and then the fan contactor pulled back in so that's set up and working properly. Okay, so another application note regarding low speed fan, it may be possible to run in the cooler pretty easily, but not in the freezer, because and i'll go over to this panel, even though it looks identical, we don't want to run fans in defrost in a freezer.

So we would have to do some extra relay logic in here so that our fans are disabled in defrost on the freezer, so with an auxiliary contact on that defrost contactor to switch the state that would have to be installed. So in this current application controlling these coils with this controller in its factory configuration, it's really not possible to use the low speed fan for anything, at least not without adding an auxiliary contact and an extra wire. Another note is, i was being silly earlier. We can advance defrost from the home screen, which is a little bit less clunky than going into the hamburger menu and going to settings or set points or whatever.

It is called still a little bit clunky. But i can get into my defrost and, as you can see, my defrost current is going to go up, so i can now set my defrost current to 22.3 and we can go to 2.5. You can do auto, detect as well, but i ain't doing that. All right alarm went away or alert whatever you want to call it.

So now we go back to defrost scroll down next mode drain scroll down next mode. Man delay. So another note is, i was having an issue on startup, because my pressure transducer wasn't reading and one symptom this was having is, it would keep, it was set for demand defrost and it just kept going into defrost and my angle valve to my pressure. Transducer was closed, so that's why i wasn't getting a good reading.

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