Don't you just love the every ac is down calls.... Most of the time its just one of two but I still laugh when they say that.
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This video is brought to you by sportlin quality, integrity and tradition customers calling saying they got several acs down, but i'm starting on this one. This is one of their bar ac's, okay, so the first thing i did was: i don't ever power the unit down, because this older unit has a compressor lockout, it kind of has like mechanical logic. Okay, so if a pressure switch was to open high pressure, low pressure or freeze stat or if the compressor doesn't run after a certain period of time, that switch that compressor lockout board locks the system out mechanically via a holding relay okay. So first thing we're doing.

We walk up to the unit. I've got 25 volts from common to r. Okay. Next thing i want to do is i want to test to see if we are in compressor lockout, so i go from common to x and i get nothing okay, so that tells me that we are not in compressor lockout, okay, um.

We can proceed further. So what i'm gon na do is i'm gon na put my thermostat, i mean my meter on common and we're gon na go to y1. Do we have a call for cooling is what i'm testing? Okay, the thermostat downstairs. First, off you've got 24 volts coming from this transformer.

It runs through some logic in the unit, then it goes downstairs via the thermostat wire and then comes back up the thermostat think of it as a light switch when the temperature gets where it's supposed to get. The light switch turns on and it tells the unit to turn on in this situation from common to y1, which is my call for cooling. I have a call for cooling 25 volts, so that means that the thermostat is telling this unit to turn on. But for some reason it's not okay.

I don't think we're off on low pressure because we would be off on compressor lockout. Now. What you don't know is that, after this system had been operating for many years, we came in and we put in jade economizer systems on this unit. Okay, so we have um.

I believe right here on maybe this wire right here, this thermostat wire, it's coming from the honeywell jade economizer assembly, so we're going to go over and have a look at that this unit is economizing right now, so it's occupied y1 is on it's going through uh Y1 out is off, it doesn't have a y2 we're just letting it scroll through its logic. Mixed air temperature is 67 degrees. That's inside the blower assembly outside air is 67 degrees and it's economizing right now, so it is kind of cool outside. So, let's verify that those sensors are accurate.

That's gon na be my next step, so i'm gon na throw a thermometer out here. So it's early morning it's gon na get to almost 100 today, but it does look like it's pretty accurate 69 degrees. But honestly, the uh outside air temperature should be a lot lower than 67 degrees before it bypasses, because, typically you want to maintain about a 72 degree building and you need temperature differential. You don't want it just saying: well, it's 72 outside, let's bring in no, you need, you know at least a 10 degree temperature differential between the outside air and the inside air, and we don't really because then, when you bring in body heat, it's going to take Forever for it to cool the building down, so the outside air temperature, the set point needs to be a lot lower than 67 degrees.
So let's look into that in our settings. It says that the dry bulb outdoor air temperature is set to 70 degrees. I'm gon na go ahead and change that because that's too high we need that to set down to like 60 degrees. Now the customer didn't give me very much direction.

They said they have an ac number, but they said the entire building was hot. So more than likely they've lost one or two acs, and this has several small ac, so that affects the whole building. It looks like this unit's working uh, the economizer wouldn't have been the problem. It just happens to be cool outside right now, so i lowered the economizer set point, but my supply air temperature is 48 degrees uh.

We know that the return air temperature was about 70 because that's what we were reading, so i don't think we have a problem with this unit. So it's more like a triage situation. We're going to put this one together and move on to the next one. I'm not going to go any further because i'm looking for obvious things now, once i get obvious things fixed.

If i wanted to dive further into these ac's, i could. I also have someone working on another. I have another person up on the building, so we're kind of tag teaming these ac's going through them together all right this one right here, um is also running. I just put my thermometer in it.

We've already got a 50 degree supply air temperature and it's dropping even more again it's about 70 degrees in the building. So i don't think there's a problem with this, so that takes care of their bar. Now we're gon na start over here at that unit and then work our way around and make it over to this unit too this unit, i'm i'm remembering something this guy has a refr. Uh is not running.

If i remember right - and i believe there was a refrigerant leak on the compressor that we found like during the winter - and they didn't want to address it - they wanted to wait till the summer time. So i know we're going to have to change a compressor on this one, but we're going to keep going over to these guys right here. This guy is not working. So first thing i do is: i prove that the transformer has given us 24 volts from r to c we're good to go.

Okay, then i'm going to go from c to x to see if we have any open limit switches and we do not so then i'm going to go from c to y one and i'm going to prove that the thermostat is calling it. It is okay. So the next step is it's getting lost after this right, so we've got power here. It goes into the economizer, then it comes out of the economizer and goes through the logic and pressure controls and everything.
So let's go over here to the economizer assembly and i've already got it opened up over here, so it might get kind of loud outdoor air sensor error. So our outdoor air sensor is bad on this one and it's not allowing the compressor to turn on uh. It's it a minute ago, it was reading negative 37, so it said okay to economize, so very common on these things for the outdoor air sensors to fail. If you open this up - and this up, it goes right down in here and that's the outdoor air sensor right there and they just get very susceptible to uh outside ambient issues.

So we're gon na go ahead and change that sensor. Let's go see if i have one in my van, and i bet you once we change that it'll start reading the accurate outside air temperature and then the unit will run all right. I do not have the sensor for this. I'm actually going to go pick it up.

I just got all the information on this compressor, i'm going to pick this up. At the same time, i just looked at my local supply houses now, what's in here is an old carlisle compressor and they were actually notorious for this happening. It's leaking out of one of the welds on the side. Um, i don't know if that's a soft plug or a weld on the carlyle, but it's on the back side.

So this guy will go ahead and pick up a new compressor, we'll change it to 407c, we'll put in a new dryer and hope that the condenser is not restricted. I don't know we'll have to see we'll make sure we get a new one of those and i'm just checking to see if the td is good on this one before i leave 49 degrees yeah so um. Now again, that's not like a 100. This unit's doing everything it's supposed to be doing, but i'm triaging these units right because i didn't know what was going on so this guy's going to be fine, uh fyi.

If you have a sensor that has failed. If you disconnect it, the unit will turn on, but if the sensor is connected, sometimes it can read so this unit was like turning on and off so between this unit and this unit, not working, that's gon na affect their entire dining room. Now i haven't seen for sure if this one works, i'm gon na, let my other technician check this unit out uh when he's done working on the kitchen ac and i'm gon na go get all the parts that i need. So i'm gon na pick up a compressor and the outdoor air sensor for this one.

I got the new zone sensor installed now we're reading 78 degrees outside air, so this ac is done. I'm going to put it back together button it up, get the work order signed for this one we're still working on the kitchen ac. I've got someone doing that and then we're going to. I got the compressor for this one, so we'll jump on that here.

In a minute, too, all right now i haven't shown you anything on this ac. I have someone else working on it, but we have a a fuse that has blown on here now. This fuse has blown before i've had another technician long time ago, come out here and change the fuses on it couldn't find a reason. So i busted out the the insulation tester, the mega ohm meter.
Okay, we tested this guy. It was good to go. Okay, we test this guy and it's testing bad okay, so we're gon na hit insulation test and look we're testing with 526 volts. We have 32 mega ohms 61 mega ohms.

We have an intermittent insulation issue inside this guy. The compressor was just running. It was running and the unit actually satisfied, but intermittently this compressor is shorting to ground. Now, insulation tests can be a little tricky because they can also sense high moisture content in the system.

So you you want to be cautious about trusting just because the the meter says bad compressor. What is it actually doing? Okay, you want to be sure you test that, don't just let that be your only thing. Okay, we're gon na go ahead and uh talk to the customer about replacing this compressor. I know that there is no moisture in the system we're the only people that are working on it.

We don't have high moisture content. Um, there's. Definitely something going on within this compressor lots of bouncing around today, um, so the kitchen ac. We turned it back on for now.

It's an intermittent short we're. Definitely gon na change the compressor but um we're gon na. Let it keep running while we're here we're getting started on this guy now. This guy said again is leaking on one of these.

I think it's a soft plug on the back uh, so we're going to go ahead and replace that compressor. We're also going to split this condenser, so i pulled the top off the unit depending on how difficult the compressor changes. If we have to do a lot of re-piping, we might pull the whole condenser out if not i'll, just get the compressor out put in a new dryer then put this back in, so this guy should be completely void of refrigerant. By now, i believe it just had a slow leak.

Let's see if it's even got refrigerant left in it nope. Nothing, i'm pushing it right now, so no refrigerant left in it. So we'll get this compressor pulled out. We'll get the new one brought up to the roof and then maybe we can clean up some of this oil mess on the bottom.

If you come over here, um there's a lot of oil over here from when it just leaked out slowly. The condenser fan motor was running so contactors. They look like they're fairly new, but i don't know how good they are inside. So we'll give those a look too.

All right we're getting this guy on sweat. We got the new compressor up here. For the most part, it looks like it's going to match up. This is a copeland.

I went with a copeland compressor. I did use the cross reference and the copla mobile app to find the right compressor, because i can't get these carlisles anymore. I believe even carrier changes them over to copeland. If i remember right, um something i wanted to point out, there was the slightest bit of vapor still in here and if you look see if it comes across on the camera or not look in the shadow right here of that see, it's not going to show Itself there goes: you see that tiny little ripple right there, that's the shadow of the the sun reflecting off the gas.
That's still venting out of this guy. The point i'm trying to make is this: guy never pulled atmosphere into the system. It was ever so slightly. It just went when i pulled the schrader out, so that's a good sign.

That means that this oil isn't technically contaminated with moisture, which should make this change out a lot easier. So this is very good because the entire system still has vapor coming out of it. I don't know if you guys can see the shadow right there of the vapor coming out of that. So what we're doing is we're doing the dryer, because we've got the compressor out, makes it easier right.

So this one, this dryer is a little bit bigger. So when i go to fit it, if i put it right there, it sticks up too high or if i put it right there, where it's going to go. You see this is down too low right here. Okay, so what i'm going to do is just cut with the tubing cutter right at the top of this solder right here.

Just cut that off that much off and then that'll make that dryer fit in there perfect all right we're trying to make it a little bit easier on ourselves. We've raised the bottom side of the dryer out of the system. I'm doing this right here and then we're going to jump onto the top and the rest of the filter. Dryer we're doing this without the compressor in place.

That way, it's easier, the tip that i'm using is a little bit big. So i'm kind of trying to be quick. I've got a rosebud tip for the big stuff, i'm a cheapskate, so i patch my solder sticks back together. I don't have my viper wet rag heat blocking compound, so i'm just using a towel.

It's not the end of the world if the dryer gets a little burnt, it's okay! The torch settings are a little bit off here, adding a liquid line service port. So we can get an accurate sub cooling too, so so so we're getting the compressor brazed in at the moment. We ended up having to put a t right here. I mean a coupling right here and we slightly tweaked this line down, but we've got some nitrogen flowing through so we're looking good.

So i always like to do the most difficult, braids first, which is this back corner. So we do that. Do that and then we'll do the easy ones down here all right, we are all braised in so this one, this one we put a coupling right here to make up for what we needed, because basically, this guy, we needed this out of our way to get The compressor out, so we cut it here, put a sportlink catch. All 16 cubic inch drier in there we're all braised up.

We've got nitrogen flowing through we're, going to get our vacuum pump, set up running we're going to take a lunch while it's doing an evacuation and then we'll clean the condenser and put the top on and charge it up and cross our fingers and hope that that Uh, the fixed surface metering devices on the liquid header aren't plugged up, there's not much. I can do if they are. We had the nitrogen and the gauges up here, so we're going to go and do a standing pressure test while we're going to get all of our evacuation equipment, so i always put it in on the high side. Let it go the natural flow make sure it comes up on the low side, then i'll open the low side, but you just want to make sure that it's actually not completely restricted, and it's not so we're going to pressurize this guy up, do a tightness test And then, like i said, we'll be back with the evacuation stuff we are set up.
We had to improvise and put the vacuum pump on a bucket, because the hose was a little too short. So i'm gon na start out with the suction line, closed see how fast it pulls down on the micron gauge, which would completely isolate this hose from the system. So let's go ahead and turn it on see what happens, we'll, go ahead and open up the gas ballast and then we're going to let it run and hopefully pull slightly down on this guy. Then i don't know we'll decide whether or not we need to open the other side up got some of the blue brightener cleaner from viper using their gun, and this stuff is going to do good at stripping all the oil out of the bottom of the unit And cleaning the condenser too, so i'm going to go ahead and apply it we'll let it sit then we'll give it a rinse.

I'm trying to do this carefully without ruining all my stuff, so just trying to be as efficient as possible. We also got that dryer strapped up with a zip tie, so all right so we're giving it a good little rinse been sitting on there for about three four minutes. I don't want to let it sit too much longer we're gon na rinse it from all sides. I've kind of got the condenser split apart a little bit too right now, so you can clearly see the stuff coming out is gunk.

I sprayed the bottom of the unit all that good stuff, so the wand really helps us to be able to get down in here and we'll get all different angles. Push it out from this side, so nice and slow make sure it's properly cleaned. Looking at about 600 microns on the micron gauge, so we're just going to let that keep running just trying to rinse it all down. Since i had the top off the unit, i went ahead and rinsed out the drain.

Pan made sure it was nice and clear. Blew out the trap, a bunch of all that dirt right there was in there. So that's all rinsed out, so we're good on that. I'd love to redo that trap, but it's a problem for another day: we're looking pretty good about 700 microns 750 right now.

So we're going to let it keep running, i'm probably going to take a lunch and then just let that keep pulling down all right. I just took the big vacuum hoses off, i'm currently in decay. I'm pulling an initial vacuum on these, but it's not pulling on the gauges yet on the system, so those are still closed because we're indicated about 793 microns and slowly rising. So i'm pulling an evacuation on these hoses because i don't want them to have any atmosphere in them that way.
When uh, when um i go to charge, we don't introduce anything we're not supposed to into the system right. So clearly i've got something loose right. Now. Oh yeah, these guys.

This is why we don't open the system until we're 100 sure, and then we pull the gauges down into a vacuum again: they're isolated at the core removal tools, um and let it pull down so we're 2500 microns, we'll let it pull down. I'm gon na go get some refrigerant. We're going to introduce refrigerant to the system. Do a leak check on it.

Put the top on we're. Just kind of you know, trying to multi-tusk as much as possible, then we'll open everything up and start the system up. All right, we are going with 407c i currently and we're currently putting the top on the unit. We're gon na go ahead and start charging this guy.

So i put a couple 407c stickers, we'll get some paint markers out here in a minute too. Um scale is zeroed out we're looking already purged everything all the way up to here, so we're gon na go ahead and open this and open this and uh we're looking for 12.5 pounds of r22, so we're probably gon na go to about 11.5 pounds and then Dial it in via super heat, when we're done with that, so go ahead and put it in on the high side, letting it dump in there. Let me get that to actually show you guys one pound, so we're just going to let it dump what it can. Uh, we'll get the leak detector out here in a minute all right, we're still charging we're gon na do a leak check, real, quick using the field piece.

Dr 82 gon na hit all my joints back here. Nothing, nothing, nothing! Nothing come up here to the compressor. Nothing, nothing so no leaks, we're putting a crankcase heater on and then we're gon na drop the condenser fan motor in and hopefully get ready to start it up all right. I've got the system running.

Uh switched everything over to my my joblink probes and we're charging right now. So i stopped right under eight pounds, just a little like it's like seven pounds and some change so we're just going to keep adding gas and we're going to watch the superheat because we're looking for a target superheat on this guy, because it's a fixed, orifice metering Device all right, we are running really good. So this is our system right here and we're calling for about five degrees of evaporator superheat because of the target. Okay, it's target super because it's a fixed, orifice metering device um, it's kind of ranging a little bit right.

Now i might have overshot it just a little bit, but we'll let it kind of stabilize out. We've got about 12 degrees, sub cooling, that's true sub cooling, because i added a liquid line. Port um about just under 100 degrees outside got a decent approach. Temperature supply and return, we have a 23 degree.
Temperature split air flow is about where it should be. I'm looking pretty darn good. This is a six ton unit, we're delivering right at that this guy's. Looking great so we got lucky that the fixed orifice metering device there's our superheat it's about 5.7 degrees.

We got lucky. The fixed norfolk metering device was not plugged up on this guy um all right. This is good. Stuff.

407C, like i said, we marked it, we're right about the factory charge just about give or take a couple ounces, so pretty darn good all right, so we're going to go ahead and start cleaning all of our stuff up. Um, we're definitely going to be changing the uh walk or the compressor on the kitchen ac later, but not right. Now we got a giant mess up here, so we're gon na start cleaning our stuff up, making sure everything's working and the customer's gon na be super. Happy because their dining room is gon na be kicking now well um.

I went ahead and brought the compressor back to the shop or back to my house actually and uh brazed on some stubs, real, quick, nothing, fancy - and i came back here to where i remember when i condemned this thing, which was like a year and a half Two years ago, but uh, it's leaking right here on this uh spot right here now i don't know if that's a soft plug or if that's like a a weld regardless these carlisle compressors on the carriers, always leaked right there. Back in the day, we don't see a lot of the carlisles anymore um, but yeah. They would always do that. So so, when you get these calls where there's like you know, hurry everything's down, don't panic first off right, just go into triage mode and start looking for big things right.

So you know there may be it's possible that there was problems with those acs that were operating, but i wanted to triage. The situation go find the worst stuff right, so i'm going through boom boom boom found. One problem set the economizer's temperature at which it goes into full economize lower. You know so boom solved that problem, but and then just worked our way through the issues until we found major problems right, so we had one economizer sensor.

That was bad that wasn't allowing the unit to come on. We had a compressor bad on the kitchen ac, which i actually sent um someone back to go replace that compressor. I didn't do the job, but that's already been taken care of too, and then i took care of. The compressor that i knew was going to be you know was, was down um in a situation like this? The way that the restaurants work, the kitchen ac, was operating, so it wasn't an emergency, so i prioritized the ac that was out in the dining room that wasn't working at all.
That's why i changed that compressor. The day that you saw the vid or in the video and then i sent someone the next day to change the um kitchen, ac, compressor, okay. So but you just kind of take your time again, don't panic! I know it could be overwhelming because you go out and there's five ac's, they say five acs aren't working. Okay, just start working your way through them, one at a time right, focus on that ac go through it.

Is it good? Okay, move on to the next move on to the next move on to the next. You know so just take it one ac at a time and, like i said just going to like triage mode, just looking for major issues. There really wasn't anything too crazy about this. I had already brought that compressor up to the customer.

Previously it was winter time. I think it was like a year ago, though, it's been a while but anyways it was winter time and they didn't want to fix it, for whatever reason you know, i don't know if it was a year ago because it might have been the end of last Summer, i think that's what it was. I think it was the end of last summer and they were like eh we'll get through the winter. That's what it was anyways, but so i already kind of had an idea what it was and it was so notorious for the carlisles to leak in that exact same spot.

It happened all the time. I've changed a lot of those carlyle compressors because of that exact issue, there's no fixing that you're not going to braise that shut or anything just change the compressor and move on okay. I went ahead and converted it to 407c. I've been doing a lot of conversions to 407c lately as long as i'm doing, oil changes and everything's been good.

I get a lot of questions about what alternative refrigerants i use. I still use r22 too this day we actually just bought a crap ton of it and and just stockpiling it, but we still use it on refrigeration systems on air conditioning systems. If we come up to an air conditioner, that's low on refrigerant, we'll top off the charge with r22 come back fix, the leaks either continue to use r22 or if it has polyester oil in it, we'll go ahead and uh put 407c. It just depends okay, but i still use r22 uh, the only alternative to r22 that i'm using at this moment is 407c now i know i get messages and emails from all these different people use this use.

This use this. You don't need an oil change use. This use this i like to follow the manufacturer's installation instructions. 407C says it works best with polyester oil.

Now i know that there's some people out there that say you can just add a little bit of polyester oil to the system. That's not the right way to do it. Okay, and i want to dispel some myths too, because i recently watched a youtube video of someone - and i know there's so much misinformation out there, but there's a another youtuber, i'm not going to name him but um. He made a video showing how he converts system over to 407c and he adds 20 percent of the oil charge with polyester oil, so he just literally dumps polyester oil on top of the existing mineral oil and he adds 20.
That's not how that works. Okay. Now, first off you can mix the oils, it's not the end of the world, okay, but it's not supposed to be that way, because you know different oils travel with different refrigerants, okay, so in a perfect world you only want one oil in that compressor. The next thing is, you, don't want to add 20 percent more oil to a compressor.

You can have problems if you have too much oil in a compressor. So don't listen to that myth where you just add extra oil, that's not accurate. Okay, the only way to do it right is to remove the oil put polyester in it or change the compressor. Sometimes that might even be cheaper.

Just change the compressor. The new one comes with polyester oil then charge it with 407c um. You don't want to be mixing refrigerants ever that is not accurate, you're not supposed to do that period. I don't care if your best friend says that he did it and he's been doing it for 20 years and it works fine.

It doesn't mean it's right. It's not right, you are not a chemist. You don't make your own refrigerants, there's no pressure temperature chart to follow. If you mix refrigerants it just doesn't make sense.

So don't do that? Okay, so i don't use any other alternatives. As of this point, um just 407c and like i said i always just either change the oil or change the compressor. Okay, so that's the way that i'm rolling, that's the the the way that the manufacturers want you to do it. Okay, um, be very cautious.

Trusting supply houses because supply houses oftentimes can give inaccurate information, not all the time, but sometimes they can. I've been told several times by very reputable supply houses that oh yeah, you can use this refrigerant. It works fine. Well who says it works.

Fine, oh yeah. The last technician he's not the person that i want to be listening to the only people that i want to listen to is the manufacturer, copeland, the manufacturer of the compressor carlisle tecumseh. I don't think carlyle exists anymore, but i mean you know lean on the manufacturer. The compressor and see what their recommendations are: don't listen to the manufacturer of the equipment.

Listen to the person, that's standing behind their compressor. That's the person to listen to copeland, doesn't approve very many additives for anything, be very careful about trusting when you go into a supply house - and i know i'm going off on a tangent right now, but you go into a supply house and they have a leak. Sealant up on the wall right, i'm pointing to the figurative wall right there. They have a leak ceiling up on the wall and right on the leak ceiling that says oem approved.
That is such a stupid, blanket statement. What does oem approved mean? How many manufacturers are there which manufacturer approved it? Was it a compressor manufacturer or was it a manufacturer of an expansion valve? You know don't there's so much misleading marketing material and it drives me nuts, the only person that should be telling you what to put in your systems is the manufacture of the compressor period. Okay, because they're the people that are standing behind that compressor they're the people that are going to warranty it lean on them go. I i challenge every one of you to go to copeland.

Compressors, find your local copeland rep, an actual copeland rep, not a supply house. An actual copeland rep and ask them which leak sealant does copeland approve in their compressors i'd love to see from a copeland representative. One of them say that they actually approve a leak, sealant or a dye or a flush or whatever. Okay, copeland doesn't approve very many things and on top of that, some of the people, the manufacturers, copeland, might approve one particular additive under a certain circumstance, maybe in a chiller, maybe under certain evaporator temperatures.

But it's not a blanket approval for everything. So you have to be very careful about misleading marketing material. Okay, now that i went off on a tangent and started talking about everything else, but what was relevant to the video? Let's get back to the video, so um, nothing too crazy, uh system's still running fine. All those acs are back up and running.

The customer is happy. All is well okay. I recently said in a video, i'm just going to keep saying it and stay tuned too. But if you go to my website hvacrvideos.com, we just resupplied the hats.

We've got a new uh, basically we're running, really low and we ran out for a few days but we're all back in restock, so we're good to go on the hats. If you're interested in checking out hats, we have t-shirts soon to be not available yet, but very soon to be stickers available on the website. So i need to figure out how to get them on my website. It's been a while, since i've actually done that i have two different styles of stickers.

They probably won't be available for a couple more weeks, but we have a translucent sticker. That, basically, is clear if i can show you guys, so that will be available soon. So it is a clear sticker right, so there's translucent and then this one has a white background. So they'll be available soon, but i don't think realistically it'll be for a couple.

More weeks, but just stay tuned, keep checking on the website hvacrvideos.com several other ways you can support the channel if you're interested in doing so. The easiest way to support the channel is simply watch the videos from beginning to end without skipping through anything. That's the simplest way uh. You can also support the channel via paypal, patreon, youtube, channel memberships, there's links in the show notes of the video.
If you're interested in purchasing any tools you can go to truetechtools.com, i have an offer code, big picture. That is one word. If you use that offer code, you get an eight percent discount. I get a small commission from that.

Uh! That's! If you like what true tech tools has to offer. I've been purchasing from them for many many years, they're a great company. Very, very nice people run the company uh amazing people, actually so really cool people. I love their um, their message that they're trying to spread, and just in general they're, just a good company, so check out truetechtools.com if you're interested in purchasing any tools, and that is it remember that um i typically go live on the hvac overtime youtube channel on Friday evenings with my friends adam bill and joe about 605 pm pacific um, we usually do a just like a hangout live stream.

It's like a bunch of guys just going to the bar uh. Then i also do work permitting live streams on my youtube channel. Uh monday evenings about 5 p.m: pacific uh, this last week. Actually yesterday i had my wife on my wife jill and we kind of talked about how we live, the hvac, our life, so uh just stay tuned.

I really appreciate you all, remember be kind to one another and we will catch you on the next one: okay.

46 thoughts on “They said hurry every ac is down”
  1. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars The Seafood and Vape Source says:

    Was it a burnt out comp?

  2. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Troy Belding says:

    OEM approved. There are a couple of things that this could involve. 1) they want to mislead you on which Original Equipment Manufacturer. It could be the manufacturer of a filter dryer. 2) They won't actually use a company name because then they're stepping on the rights of the company_. 'You used our name without our permission!'. You _can use a company's name without permission, but only if you have specific evidence. Papa John's compared itself to Pizza Hut because the founder of PJ was involved in Pizza Hut, and they couldn't claim he couldn't know enough to compare. That's why you see "Compared to a leading competitor", instead of "Compared to company B!" If you contact the company, they may even tell you over the phone (or in email) what the OEM might be – but they can't do it in public. (published) Are you in Orleans ?

  3. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Troy Belding says:

    I have a customer with a manager I call Chicken Little. Any time there's an issue, the sky is falling. At one point, she told me everyone in her department was having issues. I then spent three hours troubleshooting the common server/network points, not finding anything (while fielding calls from the woman). I then finally called another person in the department to get more information, and found out _only one person was having problems_. Apparently, because that one woman had a bad network cable, the entire department was down. I no longer believe anything she says other than as a starting point to talk to other people to find the problem. I get chewed out by the owner, and I chew him out for listening to her at all. She's really good at the business, but she's absolutely terrible with tech.

    Just like this – you can't fix the problem until you actually know what the problem might be.

  4. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Stephen Bullock says:

    Great job

  5. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars jason nelson says:

    At this point are you even allowed to braze without 80's music montage.

  6. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Steve Blake says:

    953 thumbs up

  7. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Michael Naus says:

    Yo man, you have been a true mentor to me and I appreciate it. I don't do AC work normally but wanted to tell you that I really appreciate you. I have a hard time keeping up with my own work and billing but watching you run a company with techs and still finding time to make these videos to help out others is truly inspiring. Thanks brother.

  8. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars R S says:

    I been doing this trade 16 years and when I wanna learn more I watch your channel I learned so much about RTU's and R290 systems from you watching you greatly appreciated keep up the good videos

  9. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Nahom Serekebrhan says:

    Thanks for the video I can’t how helpful are your videos

  10. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars JR Smyth says:

    Is this equipment that you have not serviced before?
    If you have been here, then who set those economizers up and who did not check them on prior visits?

  11. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars matt luongo says:

    I once had an old copland scroll leak in the same exact spot.. But only once in years of doing this trade. The company I work for still uses R22 but has also been using 407c for a few years. It works good on straight ACs but has problems with heat pumps sometimes. In the last year we start using Bluon TDX20 (R458A) and personally I really like it alot. Would recommend it to anyone looking for R22 replacement.

  12. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars ntsecrets says:

    Assuming this isn’t a restaurant with exhaust fans, how well do economizers work if there isn’t a place for the air to exit the building?

  13. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Paul Crandall says:

    Back in 2011-12, my local supply house was starting to really push MO-99 as a replacement. We were working on a 120 ton AAON unit. It had 4 cooling stages with 8 Copeland compressors (4 twins). All four compressors had finally died in 2 of the stages. We put 4 brand new Copelands back into the unit and, with the Copeland rep's blessing, we put in MO-99 as a replacement because the customer wanted to save money on refrigerant. We get everything in, all compressors and all stages are running like a champ, and went home for the night. When we went back the next morning, the same two stages we replaced were down again and all 4 compressors were drawing LRA. We couldn't figure it out and couldn't get those compressors started again.

    We had our supply house and local Copeland representative come out and diagnose what happened. They checked if our installation was correct(it obviously was, I'm only a hack when I need to be lol). They analyzed the refrigerant and oil for contamination. They checked everything. Went through the entire unit with a fine tooth comb. They found that the MO-99 essentially washed the oil out of the compressors, but it wasn't carrying the oil back and all 4 of them seized up overnight. All of the oil was being trapped in the evaporator. It had to do with the way the unit was piped from the factory. It worked fine for r-22, but not for MO-99. Copeland determined that due to the sheer size of this unit, there needed to be more traps in the circuit to allow the MO-99 to bring the oil back. Copeland ended up giving us another 4 brand new compressors to install, but they wanted us to put r-22 back in the system in order to warranty them. I'm sure an oil separator and/or adding some traps along the circuit would've worked, but neither I nor Copeland trusted MO-99 in this system. Don't even get me started about using MO-99 in medium or low temp systems. It seems to work ok in smaller package rtu's (like 20 ton or less) and split systems(depending on lineset elevation and trapping). I just try to avoid using it altogether though. It's a terrible refrigerant.

  14. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars marshall h says:

    I work in an office and stumbled on your videos about a year ago. I have developed great respect for your trade after watching your videos.
    Keep them coming

  15. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Zack Shea says:

    i am at the point that i literally watch all of your videos like there a soap opera lol. every new epsiode is the same feeling as a new episode of game of thrones.

  16. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Mario Perez says:

    for mineral oil use r422b,the same way you did r407c.tested for years.

  17. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Mario Perez says:

    que chulo r407c nice job. Are you in Kanata ?

  18. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Zac Cody says:

    Whats your favorite r12 alternative? Sadly I still see way too many r12 systems

  19. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars John Amendola says:

    Chris, I recently jumped into commercial service from residential. So this might be a dumb question but do you clean the refrigeration lines with r11 flush or nitrogen when you do a conversion to 407c? Service area Kanata??

  20. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars andykillsu says:

    You changed to 407C, but you didn’t change the oil. I know you can ‘technically’ use the old stuff, but good idea to change it.

  21. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars 5238117 says:

    Word RTFM Service area Ottawa??

  22. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Stylez nun says:

    "hurry all every AC is down" In my mind, stop overreacting while walking in with my lazer reader to only be the one ac down lol

  23. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Jamie Rushing says:

    Hi bro from west Alabama peace and love

  24. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars GatheringSticks says:

    I watch all your videos,
    Doesn't seem like you not to mount that one economizer control.
    It was just hanging by its wires?

  25. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Vahyae FX says:

    Is that a silicone ring

  26. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Bryan A.K. says:

    Dude I use that wand for everything. It’s the best! Thanks for telling me about it last year

  27. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Bryan A.K. says:

    Brazing in the sun in awful. I can’t see crap Service area Orleans??

  28. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Timothy Delgado says:

    When charging when do you know when you should just dump it in or just throttle it?

  29. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars CallSign Mayhem says:

    #15 rosebud is an "all-in-one" tip. I use that thing from 1/4" to 1-1/8". Love that thing.

  30. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Armando De Leon says:

    Stock-piling R-22?🤣 Thats finna make you alot of money soon huh

  31. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Hola! Brian Million-Osborne says:

    I believe the leak on the compressor isn’t a soft plug. I believe it is a weld where the windings are held in place there should be 3 of them Are you in Ottawa ?

  32. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Greg Mercil says:

    What are your opinions on r422D as a retrofit replacement? That’s what we use where I work right now, as a retrofit for r22. Seems to work pretty well.

  33. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars patrick Beals says:

    Got a little rosebud in there for ya

  34. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars ROBLOX CORE GAMES says:

    Idk why but I feel like I’ve already seen one part of this video, Must be Deja vu Are you in Barrhaven ?

  35. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Peter Hodgkins says:

    Thanks for your comments on 407C! The only reason I got my federal certs is that I'm an old retired oil/gas/power gen guy, and my local company put the double-rectified screws to me on a repair of one of my residential systems. They lost my R22 charge cutting out the drier, and replaced it with R407C and didn't do ANYTHING about oil. Needless to say I had a mess on my hands. The thing worked, but the evaporator was always flooded with oil and it really killed the heat transfer properties. A lot of money for poor performance.

    I decided after not getting any satisfaction from them that I was better off just getting certified and buying my own equipment and doing it myself. I've learned a TON of stuff from real pros like you and a handful of others.

    I wasn't willing to risk my dwindling supply of R22 on the system with R407C in it, (15.5 lbs), so I converted it to R458A which works fine with mineral oil. I added a TXV and the thing works better than it ever has now. The only problem I've seen with these blends is that the wide condensing spectrum (glide) can trick a fella into overcharging if he's relying on a sight glass out of the condenser as an indicator. You could be on target with your superheat and still not have a clear sight glass.

    There ain't any good shortcuts. I've always adopted the mantra "Do it right as you can the first time around, or you'll end up doing it at least twice!".

  36. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Baladi says:

    Brought to you by Sporlan bakery products.

  37. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Steven P says:

    Good afternoon, I’m just curious, in your opinion what is the best Freon old or new?

  38. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Shuken Flash says:

    The shadow from the gas leaking out is basically doing the same thing as sticking a pencil in a glass of water. The gas bends or refracts light just a little bit differently than the air around it. They're both clear, but just like a pencil seems broken where the water in a glass meets the air the light will be changed where the border is between the gas and air.

  39. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Eddy says:

    Another good one Chris … Thx for posting …

  40. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars TaRgEt0ZeRo says:

    they freaking always say hurry

  41. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Roller Coaster Line Productions says:

    Fav new channel.

  42. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars richardc1983 says:

    Perhaps I've misunderstood but if the unit was using 100% outside air due to outside being cooler than inside then nstead of recirculating warmer indoor air then this is better than not having the economiser operate at 67c or does it not allow the cooling coil to operate with the economiser to further cool the incoming fresh air that is cooler than inside?

  43. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars OxnardShores805 says:

    I had found a leak on a Carlyle Comp when I started. Also i recently did a evap and dual condenser cleaning on an old ICP 5 ton pulled the top off they way you showed us in all your videos, thanks again Chris.

  44. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Glen Schmidt says:

    That leak on side of compressor is a weld for upper bearing bracket, sucks for customer when they leak. Service area Nepean??

  45. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars youji imoji says:

    But R417A has worked as a substitute for R22 almost 30 years now atleast in sweden so naaa😉

  46. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Hola! LSX_ moe says:

    Out of curiosity, why 407c instead of mo99? My reason being that mo99 is compatible with mineral oil

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