This video is brought to you by Sporland. Quality, integrity and tradition. Well happy. Uh Saturday to you it is.

Saturday uh January 7th won something in the afternoon. so I had another service tech that's on call. We got a beer walking call. it's at 57 degrees.

Looks like we got one bad fan motor but that's the least of our problems. I Already had a technician here but we're slammed with calls so I had to jump in to help them out. He diagnosed this guy to have a bad compressor on the roof so this is a big walk-in There's a lot of beer in here so uh, let's jump onto the roof and I'll show you guys. Uh what? I'm about to find I'm going to reconfirm everything all right.

I have not turned anything on yet I Had my technician leave the circuit breaker off. so this is our compressor so we're always going to re-diagnose just to make sure. Okay, so first and foremost, we have no power. We're going to check for continuity in the windings.

now. this isn't the right right way because you should take the wires off, but this will give us a general idea. That's one winding, there's another, and there's the final. So all three windings have continuity.

We are not off on internal overload. The next thing we're going to do is we have service gauges on here. We have equalized system pressures. so I'm gonna clamp this guy on there and then we're going to get ready to, uh, turn the power on.

My technician did confirm the breaker was not tripped and we're not grounded. Let's go ahead and turn this guy on and come on over here. Compressors really loud Running 13 amps, 14 amps. Let's confirm that we actually have three phase.

We have three-phase power so we are running: High Current: Let's give it a second. I Mean it sounds loud. Let's let's see if it calms down or if it goes off on thermal overload again. Definitely sounds rough, but we do have compression.

It's not like I'd like to see that high current though. 15 amps. That's really high for this guy. Yeah, we're not pumping very well.

Something's going on here. Let's uh, check this guy out. Suction: Line's cool. Hot discharge gas.

Oh, there it goes. Yeah, Lock Road ramps is that 19 amps. but let's get a meter on there verify if we're losing voltage. so we're drawn, locked and we're not losing voltage.

We have proper voltage. I'm going to shut it off before it grounds out. I Think that one's it. So yeah, something's going on there internally and this guy I Don't know what it is.

That's interesting, huh? I Don't know what's coming through on the phone, but it's interesting because it pumps. It just sounds like the motors like it sounds like it's losing voltage and we're equalizing out right now. That's really interesting how it sounds like we're losing voltage. Let's see if uh, all of these are open.

Yeah, this guy's open. Everything's open like it should be. So it definitely seems like we got something going on in here. Give the gas smell smell my fingers, it's not burnt or anything like that.

Not that that would cause that issue, but we know we have three-phase power. It's pulling up the lock, rotor amps. It's not. um, it doesn't sound right.

There's something internally going on inside that compressor, so we're gonna have to change this guy. now. we're going to start the process. Looks like we have isolation valves, so let's see what we can do here.

I Came over here because you know I just wanted to inspect the compressor contactor. It definitely doesn't look the greatest, but I'm not seeing any real issues. but I still want to start it with the compressor contactor and check for voltage drop across it while it's running. The trick is though is I don't want that compressor to ground out so that's kind of the tricky thing.

but we're going to see I'm going to get the meter over here and we'll check this guy for any kind of voltage drop or anything, turn power on and I want to check for voltage across it. No voltage drop, No voltage drop, no voltage drop. and I want to make sure we're actually delivering 204, 206, 204. yeah, we're delivering the right voltage.

I Don't think the contactor is the problem I think that we've just got a defective compressor. It's an odd issue though because I've I Don't know that I've ever seen this one where it sounds like the motor is losing a phase I Guess it could be losing a phase internally, but it's not losing a phase right here. We've got a good connection and everything, so all right. Well, let's go ahead and get to isolating this compressor and then, uh, we'll see if we can't pull the gas out of this guy.

So what I did was I isolated the compressor by completely front seeding this valve and this valve and then recovered the gas that was left in the compressor. Now there is still because this system holds 33 pounds of gas. Don't know if I already said that or not I don't want to have to recover it if I don't have to and the gas doesn't smell bad. So we're going to start it up and see what happens.

I don't really see any issues. So we're going to, uh, go ahead and unsweat the compressor right here and unsweet the compressor at that connection. I'll pull this insulation off right there that looks ugly. Um, and then we'll uh, we'll have to figure out how to connect.

I might have to cut this right here that doesn't look the greatest, but I'll cut it right here and then we'll put a connection right there or something. Um, and then we only have to evacuate the compressor and then turn it on and then pump it down and all that good stuff. So let's go ahead and get the compressor on the roof before I go any further. One thing I want to do though is I want to pull these wires off and just do an inspection of these terminals.

make sure nothing funny is going on behind those if I can get back there or not, so this will actually come off. I'm a little concerned because it looks like there might be oil that just could be from taking my hoses off though. and my other Tech was here earlier too, but I just wanted to make sure there was nothing funky going on back here. I don't see any issues so it seems like we definitely got a bad compressor.

So all right, um, we'll get all this stuff removed and then, uh, get the new compressor up here before. I unsweet it to make sure everything's correct and it's all the same. Hold the belly band crankcase heater off and it still has resistance. so that is a good sign because I do have a compressor, but they didn't have a crankcase heater so time will tell once we get it put on.

I don't know what it's supposed to have for resistance though. there's a part number on it looks like 49. Watts is what it is, but that's a good sign. One thing though, these guys, they're not.

There's a nut on the bottom so I got to stick my arm underneath here to get under there to grab those and to loosen them. That's kind of silly. Foreign. All right? Well, I've got the new compressor in.

um, this piece. I was able to pull the coupling and just bend the line down. I'll have to bend that up a little bit, but it should be okay. Uh, we'll get that just set down in there for the 7 8.

this guy right here. we're gonna have to do something. Well, no, yeah, I should be able to pop that in there because yeah, yeah, we should be good to go. So and then I need to get a port for this guy right here.

And yeah, it should be good. so let's keep on moving. So what I came up with for this guy? Instead of using brass, just a street 90 in one of these fittings. that'll go like that.

We'll have plenty of room to mount the low pressure control to it. So so far so good. Thank you. Foreign.

Foreign. All right we are all braised in. I Just gotta cool everything off and then we'll get the vacuum pump up here and start. uh, evacuating this guy.

So I'm just going to take the let it sit for a minute and then we'll pull the heat blocking compound off and then throw the wet rag and just finish pulling it. But so far so good. All right now. They have these little purple flare nut gasket things I don't really like those I don't see the need for those, just lubricate the flare teeny bit of Nylog right up here like right here and lubricate it so it spins freely and then me personally.

you don't have to do this. I Put a little bit on the threads too using the Nylog, but you want to be careful if you're using Nylog on the threads and you're going to use a torque wrench because if you're trying to torque to specs, Nylog is going to throw you off. So I just put the tiniest bit right there, tiniest bit right there, not even that much and then on this guy right here. you just like I said, you just want to put it right up here where the flare nut spins like right there and then just drop it down and spin it and see you want it to be right up on the top.

That way it lubricates the surface right there so it doesn't bind up on itself. So I'm going to do the same there and then tighten these guys down. This is the low pressure control so we're ready for evacuation. We're just going to vacuum down through the gauges because we're just doing the shell of the compressor.

so we'll go ahead and turn this guy on. All the ports are tight, it's up and running, Open up the vacuum port and then open up the high side and the low side and let it start pulling down making sure everything's tight. They're looking good. so we're just going to evacuate the shell and then I'm going to start doing electrical and then we can hook up the Uh or open up the service port.

So I'll do the electrical really quick. the electrical hooked right up. the phase rotation doesn't really matter because this is a reciprocating piston driven compressor, so it really doesn't matter what piston goes up or down first in this particular one, so no problem there. Uh, evacuation is doing good, so we're going to let that run for a few more minutes.

Then I'll go ahead and open these up and we'll fire it up and hope that you know everything's okay. I Suspect it's going to be under a pretty heavy load when we fire it up, so we might have to throttle the suction service valve because uh, the the box is like 65 degrees in there probably by now so it's pretty warm. Um, the dryer. I actually had an old dryer that's never been opened in the shop, but it's 5 8 so if I can I don't know if I can or not I'll Bush it down if not.

I bought a half inch one too I Just wanted to try to use this stock out of my shop if I could. so we will see. here's the test: I've got an amp clamp on there I opened this and then cracked it just a little bit and then I Uh, the suction service valves shut down a little bit so we can throttle it open as need be. We want to make sure that this guy doesn't run overloaded.

so let's get over to the breaker panel. We still will change that contactor too. The Rla is 16.8 and we're right at Rla. but we're pumping so we're going to slowly throttle it.

We're good. Yeah, we're pulling down. That's good. So we're looking good.

I'm gonna go ahead and keep opening it making sure that we're not going over Rla. We're looking pretty darn good. So we're building head pressure. That's a good sign.

Compressors running. it's cold. coming back because the expansion valves are going to be flooding for sure. Once it starts sensing suction temperature though, they'll calm down.

Yeah, we're pretty much all the way open now. Uh, well. we were hitting like 16.9 so I'm going to throttle it just a little bit. But guys, this is looking really good.

We have head pressure now and we have suction pressure so we're going to let it run for a bit up. Yep, I Gotta throttle it down just a little bit more because I don't want it hitting that high on the suction side. The problem is that it's just got too much heat in the refrigerant and it's pushing it so we're running all right. We're still doing good.

it's looking a lot better than it was, and the crankcase heater is actually pulling amps so that's a good sign now. I did have to wrap it because it's such a low current, but that's okay. The meters resolution doesn't quite pick up the the really low current, so you just got to wrap it and do the multiplier. But the fact that I see current means everything to me.

so we know the crankcase heater is working. So I don't know what killed the other compressor we'll have to see when we cut it open, but we're just going to slowly let it pull down in temp. It's going to take a long time, so I want to see it come down a little bit before I even attempt to change that dryer. So I am running a little over current right now I Wanted to see how bad it would get.

it's at 18 amps fully open. Rla on it is like 16.8 We've got a cold suction line coming back. it's those expansion valves are frosting. now.

they are electronic expansion valves, but the heat load in the box is probably just intense. One thing though, I'm curious about why we have such high head pressure. I Was kind of worried that maybe the head pressure control valve was sticking, but it doesn't feel like it's sticking because I have a really hot discharge line and I have it's warm here I'd have to get a temperature clamp but this is my liquid drain. This doesn't really feel very much warmer than this line.

maybe a little bit. We are flashing on the sight glass, but yeah, we're running. High Head pressure. So you know what though, none of my condenser fan motors are running because they're staged on temperature.

So let's come over here. Let's turn these guys down I temporarily change the settings on these guys to get them to run because I want to see what that does to my head pressure and we're dropping like we should be all right. So again, we're just going to let it run. We're right there.

16.8 is Rla. we're just a little over, but I'm I'm doing this as a test, just kind of letting it. The Box temp is certainly dropping inside, so that's a good sign again. I Want to make sure before I go and change that dryer that that head pressure control valve or there's nothing else wrong.

So we're going to let it run for a little bit longer. Trying to get this done though, because the sun's going down All right. we are looking a lot better. There's like a rattling noise, but it's not this compressor, it's I heard it earlier.

It's one of the fan motors or something. Um, but uh oh, it's a line over here I can see it, it's loose, the the strut clamp is loose over there. but anyways, we're under current now and we're fully open. Um, the box was at 47 a few minutes ago so it's already dropping in temperature.

We're looking really good. um I Turned on both condenser fan motors and uh, it's um, it's looking good, that pressure's still a little bit hard. I mean but we'll see. Maybe you know I'm gonna let it run a little bit longer.

We could have a head pressure control valve sticking, but I Also, we're still flashing on the Side Glass so it looks like we might even be low on refrigerant possibly. but I'm gonna get some temperature clamps. we're gonna clean up a little bit and we're gonna get some temperature clamps and we're gonna diagnose that head pressure control valve. So I've got this rattling noise and it's been bugging me.

So I Jumped back here and what it actually is is that back discharge line for the first compressor. The strut is missing the vibration, the rubber in the the vibration absorber. it's completely missing. so that's something we'll have to fix when we come back.

But uh, vibrating is annoying and it's a potential leak. Source Eventually you know because if it's rubbing in there without the rubber for sure. but good that we're running under current. Um, so yeah, like I said, we're gonna get some temp clamps and check this guy out.

It is cold in here. This one's saying high superheat. Let's see what this one's saying. This one's saying 35 degrees.

Well, that's interesting now. this one also has a bad fan motor, but that's very interesting that it's saying high superheat because the other side's not necessarily doing High super heat I Wonder if we have a bad probe? We'll have to check it? We came back up here and the thing already satisfied pumped down so that's cool. But I Still want to investigate this. uh, head pressure control valve.

make sure it's not bypassing and then we're gonna have to clear the Side Glass But before we clear the sight glass, we need to go down and investigate the coil that says high superheat because if that, TXV is flooding. which there's some signs of flood back because the whole old compressor was completely rested on the suction line. Really bad. So if it's flooding back, it could be you know, just running refrigerant through the coil and it's just a pain in the butt so you don't want to charge it if it's flooding really bad.

Um, so we need to prop the door open, get the temperature to come up, then we'll test the head pressure control valve, make sure it's not bypassing, and then go from there. and then we'll go downstairs and dig into that coil and figure out why it's at high Super 8 I Suspect it's going to have about a evaporator sensor, but we'll see. Okay I got into the Ke2 manual and I got in here and what I actually found is that it thinks the suction line temperature is 183 degrees. So it's saying hi, superheat and it's flooding because of that.

So we need to change the suction temperature sensor on this control right here. so it's going to be I think I can get to it from right in here. We'll open that up and we'll get this suction temp sensor change. In the meantime, the box is actually down to temperature and satisfied.

So this coil is kicking butt and then this one's flooding like crazy and that's probably what killed that compressor. It is a nightmare to get up in here. All kinds of wires and stuff, but check this out. Look down there.

Look at that temperature sensor touching the defrost heater I bet you that's my suction temp sensor and I bet you it's been touching the defrost heater for a long time. We're going to turn off power right now. This guy does have a liquid line solenoid valve, so it should pump down. So my original theory was that they were turning off the switch to the coil, but when they do that, this should close.

Oh, this might be the dumbest install ever. but FYI I keep a giant sensor right and then just cut it to fit because it's better to have way too much than to not have enough. So I've got it zip tied. but I got to get some insulation tape on it and get some better, You know support there.

But I'm currently trying to pull it through and then I'll cut it and then I'll get it spliced into the suction line temperature sensor Port which is all the way back over here this very first one right here. This is it. This is the one. so we're gonna put it right in that spot and then hopefully we will have solved our flooding issue.

Now it says our room temp is 39 so let's hold this down Okay and variable menu I Think so. Room Temp we already know is good Coil Temp What I want to see is system mode: no superheat, no suction pressure, no suction temp. Enter 31 degrees. So 31 degree suction temp.

That's good. Let's go back and let's look at suction pressure: 44 psi I mean I would assume that's correct. Super heat is now 20 degrees, so that's much better and it's not flooding back so we're going to give it some time to come down in temperature. We very well might even be satisfied at the moment to be honest with you, because this coil over here says 33 degrees.

So um, so if we go up here, system mode is Refrigeration mode. Uh, coil temp is 29 degrees. Room temp is 37 but it's using this. probably right here and I'm probably working it.

So I think we're okay. so we're going to go up to the roof now and see. but man, what a mess that was getting into that thing back in there and doing all that. But I think that should solve our flooding issue.

It is now dark outside, stinks. um so they just turned back on. We just had to go down and open up the door and now we want to investigate the head pressure control valve, see if anything funky is going on there. We also want to see a Clear Sight glass which it's clear at the moment but the system hasn't really, uh, stabilized out yet so we're gonna let it run for a few minutes.

Make sure the sight glass clears up now that we have a both coils running the way they should and not flooding like it was. Yeah, it feels normal now, not ice cold coming back so let's give it a few minutes. All right, our pressures are looking a little better and the sight glass actually just cleared and it's running clear now so we're not flashing anymore. So before we were flashing because we were flooding back.

Compressor feels good, it's not ice cold anymore. Um I'm still a little suspect though of the head pressure control valve. I I Think the head pressure control valve is slightly leaking by because forget the names. 134 right? there is my discharge line.

That's that one. Okay, and then this one is 6079. This is going to my system and this is my liquid drain. My liquid drain.

is kind of cold, but you know what? I see 200 something stamped on that valve. So I don't know if it's 210 or if it's something higher because sometimes these guys will order weird OEM valves. So it's possible that it's like set up to bypass you know, in the high range or something. But right now we're bypassing.

So 136 discharge. The liquid line temp going into the receiver is 62 and no. 73 but it's slowly dropping 69. Oh, it's dropping so maybe we're good.

Let's give it a few minutes, then a little bit more. This is why you gotta. You gotta make sure your system's operating properly before you start diagnosing a bunch of stuff. Because yeah, this can all be misleading.

So so let's go up here. So we have 141 discharge line temp right there. Let me turn off the flash. There you go.

141 discharge Temp And then oh, we just satisfied Again, this guy won't even stay running long enough. Interesting. Interesting, This thing's not even staying running long enough. We have the door propped open and it's still satisfied.

So I know we fixed the flooding issue. So I think that's going to be it for tonight? Um I Want to investigate that head pressure control valve a little bit more, but I'm not going to do it too much. deal with it too much more tonight. I'm also not going to change the dryer right now.

Um I want to let it run I check the temperature drop across the dryer. there isn't one. So I want to let it run with the old dryer? We have one, but we're going to come back and change it because I'm I'm done for the night. It'll be fine.

and like I said, we're going to come back. We're going to investigate that head pressure control valve a little bit more, make sure nothing funky is going on there, let it run for a couple days, and then, uh, we're still going to change the compressor contactor, but I'm not going to do that today either. I don't want to be out here any later than I have to and uh yeah, it just doesn't look the greatest. So we'll definitely do it.

but not tonight, so that's it for now. Um, we'll be back. Well, we are back this morning. The system has been working good.

We definitely want to get that dryer changed out today. Something that's interesting though is management said that the Box seems to be getting a little too cold, but they also mentioned that this is something that happens seasonally. so we're experiencing, uh, you know, rather cold temperatures. It's probably in the mid 40s right now.

The roof is all icy, so you got to be careful with these rubber roofs too. Um, so we may be making adjustments to the temperature settings, adjusting it a little bit warmer for the cooler. Seasons When There's less heat infiltrating in through the box sometimes. that can cause a problem.

So um, yeah, so we need to get this guy calling. We're gonna gauge up and then, uh, we'll get back there and change that dryer and then we'll do a little more investigation of that head pressure control valve. Make sure it's working like it should be at this point. Uh, we went downstairs and we made temperature controller adjustments I Saved you guys the agony of that.

Um, they had the set point at 35 degrees. We adjusted it to 37 so it turns off at 37. it turns on at 39. we're going to maintain 37 to 39 and we're going to ask the manager to keep an eye on it and find out if that solves their freezing up issues.

Inside The Box Next thing is, uh, we're waiting for this guy to turn on so we can pump it down. so we need to get onto that King valve. get a cap on it front seat that. so that way the refrigerant flow stops coming out of the receiver.

we loosen the packing nut. we front seated the valve right there. So now when the system turns on, it should go directly into pump down and it'll pump all the refrigerant into that receiver. Um, so we're just waiting for it to turn on because I turned the temperatures up in the Box The box was really cold so it's going to take a long time for it to turn on.

So and it just turned on. I Actually sent someone down there to go hold the temperature sensors to get the box temp up nice and high. so that way that way down. So that was quick though.

too quick. shouldn't be pumping down that fast. Wow, really quick. Let's give it a minute, make sure they're both on and running.

We don't want any surprises when we go to work on this thing. There shouldn't be any other. I Mean if the solenoid valves downstairs open up what you did and it turns the system on, there should be no other valves trapping the refrigerant. We should theoretically be pumped down if everything's working right.

I Guess the majority of the refrigerant is more than likely in the condenser anyway. so that's why probably it took, you know, not very much time. Yeah, we're good. Both temperature controllers are calling.

um, solenoid valves are open and we're pumped down. So at this point we're going to go ahead and open the atmosphere. We're going to let this guy vent because it's pumped down and we're going to go ahead and get started on standing up and cutting out that dryer and getting it re-piped so we can braise it in. We'll go from there at this point as far as I can tell, the head pressure control valves working as best as it can.

I I Don't know why I was thinking it was sticking. It was kind of weird, but it was right at that temperature when I was here. But I mean it seems to be doing good right now so we'll just get this dryer changed out and get out of here. We actually did something else to make this job go a little bit easier is I actually front seated the suction service valve on the king valve and connected right here.

Now we're just open on the line set and we're not letting crap tons of moisture get into the compressor Now we're still going to pull a quick Evac on the compressor too, but we're going to be working for an hour and it's better than having the compressor open to Atmosphere for an hour contaminating the new oil versus just for a couple seconds then pulling a vacuum. So normally you don't have that suction access port after the valve, but so by front seeding that I now open. this port is just to the compressor right here. and um, so that's pretty cool little trick.

Thank you! It's a little tight getting back here, but we got it all piped in. We've also got some Viper wet rag heat blocking compound to try to help protect other components. It's inevitable it's because it's so tight. like it doesn't look bad, but it's tight to get back there, there's going to be some stuff getting burned, but the wet rag will help to protect the components a little bit more.

I'm not so worried about paint. um, but anyways, let's get on this. foreign, foreign, foreign, all right. We're all brazed in.

We just need to cool everything off and it's not going to be the prettiest thing in the world. It was a little tricky because I'm having to lean over everything to get in there so it is what it is while we are pulling the evacuation. I Turned off power to the rack right there and I'm going to change this contactor out and get this guy going because it's all burnt inside. So I mounted the auxiliary relay or auxiliary contact on here.

I Buy the double pull double throw ones. Um, and so you got to make sure you get the right contact either normally closed or normally open. This one looks like it's going to maybe a defrost heater circuit because it's running downstairs running down to the box. It's coming up on this red and orange and going through that.

So I think what that is is inside the smart controllers. They run the defrost circuit up to here to make sure the compressor contactor is not pulled in and I did verify there is no power inside this rack whatsoever. I'll even turn these off just for Giggles but it's dead I verified. Um, so we just want to make sure we get close wired up to the normally closed one and then we'll verify Everything works right.

We got contactor replaced, all good, put back in, everything looks good, it's wired upright and then we're currently working on the evacuation over here. Uh, we're just pulling through the gauges. Nothing too crazy. now.

What I did was when I was brazing I Isolated the compressor and just hooked up to here so that we could vent the system pressures. But when it came time for the evacuation, we did technically allow atmosphere to enter the compressor for a brief amount of time. so I needed to hook back up to that and pull on the compressor and on the system. So we're pulling right now.

Um, Dryer's looking good. Everything's cool over there. all good. So uh, we're just, uh, waiting for that.

and then I'm sending someone downstairs to change the bad evaporator fan motor. While we're doing this, we are back and running. We are running a Clear Sight glass nice and big sporland seal there. Gotta love those dryers going in the right direction.

Just verify that's correct. Um, system is just turning on so the head pressure is building up as it's flooding the condenser and back in the refrigerant up into it because the head pressure control valve it's an Oroa valve is bypassing and that's normal operation for ambient temperatures this low. Uh, we're looking pretty good so we're gonna let the system run and we're currently changing the evaporator fan motor. I'm going to start disassembling and getting everything ready to rope down and we're going to clean up up here.

We just got this evaporator fan motor changed out and now we're good to go. So we're going to maintain 39 degrees in this box. Um, looking good looking good so far. So we're just gonna let the customer keep an eye on it and we're gonna tell them we're done with it for today.

it doesn't take much take the top off the compressor. This one had a dead giveaway because this is a medium temperature compressor. This is not low temp and it has electronic expansion valves so we shouldn't be flooding back. Even on the shell of the compressor over here is all rusted out too.

So this guy definitely had liquid refrigerant coming back to the compressor frosting all the way back causing rust. This was under a covered area in an environment that's really dry. so this is a big problem and more than likely uh what? I bet you I'm gonna do because I haven't measured the oil yet, but when I measure the oil I bet you we're going to be a little bit low on oil. Uh, we definitely have some in there, but I think we're going to be a little low and we're going to have some sort of damage because of liquid refrigerant.

The compressor tag says that this guy takes 45 ounces of Poe and we're probably if I had to guess what's left over in the compressor and I use that transfer tank to drain it I bet you were riding about 40 ounces so it's actually not as bad as I thought it was going to be. So yeah. but the oil colors definitely trash though. Look at that.

Probably lost its lubrication ability. So let's keep on going with the diagnosis on this one. Got the whole thing taken apart? Now we're going to pull apart the valve cover and have a look at the valves in there. I'm amazed with how dirty this oil is.

The whole valve cover was covered in it. Um, nothing too crazy yet. that is a lot of oil on top of the Pistons Doesn't quite seem right. The gasket came apart when I pulled the valve plate.

but yeah, the whole thing kind of popped off here. but look at that, that's a bit sillier. And further investigation, it actually broke the Reed right there. on the other side.

you can see it's missing. so yeah. I'd say this guy didn't like the liquid refrigerant coming back to it so you can actually hear the motor was working. That's the sound it was making when it was trying to run earlier too.

And there's something wrong in there too. like I don't know. The let's get the other side pulling apart and let's have a look at the crankshaft. It's interesting.

The motor is in decent shape like the rest of the compressors in decent shape. We just damage the Piston significantly and blew apart the Reed We have massive collateral damage up here. I'm gonna blame this one on liquid refrigerant. It was one big slug that came back.

A little concerning to me was I never found the piece of the top of that right there I never found that top of the piece I believe that's the I don't know if you call that the Reed I think technically that's the read but I never found the broken piece on the top right there. but it would have gone through the discharge side and I don't think it made it into the system because the muffler would have stopped it. Um, so who knows it's not I can't find it though I Don't know if it got lost or if I just never found it. I Will say that this piston right here has quite a bit of wrist pin play back and forth.

Um, unlike the other one, it's kind of hard for you guys to see that there you go, that's a pretty good representation of it. and then this one doesn't hardly have any at all. Not at all. So this was the decent piston.

This was the one that jammed up and whatever that that piece probably broke off and came down in here and it was probably just jamming around inside that compressor jacking up that piston. I Went ahead and cut the crankshaft. um just so I had that uh for demonstration purposes. but yeah, this case is solved.

Liquid Refrigerant Which we know. we found a bad evaporator sensor causing low suction superheat on the controller which was flooding refrigerant back to the compressor I think it was a one-time boom. hit it with liquid refrigerant because we pretty much had the whole oil charge in this compressor. So I think if it was an overtime issue, I would expect that we would have had a loss of oil in the compressor.

um is my thought, but it's hard to say I mean I guess it could be return now I don't think so I think that this was just a one-time shot. but anyways, we're all good. That was a roller coaster for sure. uh I wasn't even supposed to be there I wasn't on call that day I actually had plans with my wife and we were supposed to go out and do some stuff and then all the service calls started rolling in and actually it was two service calls but it was two walk-in cooler service calls and then I knew that the person that was on call.

once he diagnosed the bad compressor, it was like okay, well pretty much he's going to be there for the rest of the day and it's like but we have another walking cooler down too. So what I did was I pulled him off of that one the the bad compressor because we knew what that was I sent him down to the other walk-in cooler call that one I think was iced up and low on charge. He got it going and then I already had the compressor changed, installed and just had started it up by the time he got back up there. Then he helped me to kind of diagnose the uh um bad suction temperature sensor and then uh, you know, taking all the equipment and stuff off the roof and getting out of there.

So it's uh, it's important that you know we get there. and it's frustrating because we change the compressor. But compressors typically don't go bad by themselves, right? There's a term that compressors don't go bad, they're murdered. Okay, and it's a pretty accurate term.

Compressors typically don't fail when we look at that compressor other than the color of the oil after I cut it open and um, the rust on the outside, the internals of that compressor and the Piston Obviously the internals of the compressor did not look bad I didn't see copper plating. Everything seemed okay. you know the inside of the body looked pretty good. The motor looks pretty good, so it's important that we dig into stuff.

Okay, once I pulled it apart I already knew you know after I replaced it I was like wait, the suction temperature is way too cold. The whole shell of the compressor was ice cold. I knew when I first started changing it, noticing all the rust on the outside of the suction line as it was going back into the compressor and on the shell, something was wrong. that is a medium temperature compress dresser.

It doesn't get typically very much below freezing, so something caused an issue for it to be flooding back. So I already had it hunch. But then when I started it up it was confirmed. Yeah, we were flooding back and and the sight glass was flashing.

So in those situations you never want to just dump gas into the system. if you have a flooding expansion valve on Startup you want to look into that before you start adding gas. It would have been really easy for me to just dump refrigerant in there, but what was happening was we were just pushing way too much liquid and it wasn't boiling off. So once I change the suction temperature sensor and got the superheat to drop significantly, my sight glass cleared up.

Okay so I didn't have to dump in a bunch of extra gas. Now in the situation of this one, it was getting late I felt comfortable leaving the dryer there, but in normal situations if I had to recover the charge or the system didn't have any gas in it I would have changed the dryer but it was getting late and I just didn't want to have to pump the system down just to change the dryer I left the original one in there I tested to see if it had a temperature drop across it. It did not. so I left it in place.

came back a few days later, changed the evaporator fan motor that we were going to have to come back for anyways. pump the system down and change the dryer. Okay so you know it's not perfect, but sometimes you got to do that kind of stuff and in this situation that was the Judgment call that I made. Once I got back to the shop I cut open the compressor, confirmed my suspicions, saw the damage more than likely well we know we had liquid refrigerant.

Coming back to that compressor, it caused a big problem. You saw the Pistons you saw the cylinders, You saw the broken parts in the compressor. It was murdered. It did not fail.

It was not because the it was the end of the compressor's life. That compressor would have still had many, many years of life left in it had the customer done routine maintenance and kept up on it and had us, you know, catch these problems before. they had a smart controller on the evaporator. They have the ability to get notifications to hook it up to the Internet.

We could have been notified the first date that they had a messed up superheat number we could have logged in we could have seen. Hey you know what? This thing has really high superheat. but that doesn't make sense because look at you know these variables like we could have seen that. but this customer didn't have us had didn't have their smart evaporator controllers hooked up to the Internet They don't want that and at this point of the year they weren't doing routine maintenance.

Now they start doing routine maintenance later in the year, but it was towards the end. They're trying to make their numbers look good. You know, Here's your sign kind of a deal, right? So uh, thank you so very much for making it to the end of the video. I Really do appreciate you guys.

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