Brazing with nitrogen, when you're on a capillary tube system - i just realized - i forgot this - was cap tube for a second. I went to go open up this guy right here and i'm getting a lot of pressure, but i'm open on this port right here right. So we're pushing through on the liquid line and we should be coming out on the suction line. But i had a massive amount of pressure here.

But it's because the capillary tube creates a pressure differential so that cap tube up there is a problem when we're brazing with nitrogen. So sometimes you might have to turn the nitrogen off, because this pressure that builds up in there doesn't get relieved fast enough, because the cap tube is restricting it. This video is brought to you by sportlin quality, integrity and tradition. So we've got a true region that they said the fans making noise.

You can't see it right now, but it's all iced up inside there thermostat says 26 degrees. So our first step is to get this thing unplugged and then disassemble it get it defrosted and then we'll figure out. What's going on, we went ahead and pushed the guy over to a floor drain area. So that way we can just go to town with a water hose we're going to clean the condenser too.

So we just need to get the evaporator cover completely taken off and then once we get to that point, we'll figure out. Oh we'll get it defrosted and try to figure out what caused it to make our life easy, so we're not fighting the door closing on us the whole time i pulled the set screw for the torsion rod in the door out. So that way, it's not springing shut, we'll put it back in when we're done, but just that way we're not wearing it out and it's not hitting us in the back the entire time. This guy is opened up um, we got the main cover off and the coil is solid top to bottom left to right.

So i'm thinking a defrost issue versus a refrigeration issue um, but we'll need to get it defrosted and check everything out. So this guy isn't even responding to the unlock. It should pull up the info right now and nothing's happening. That flashing is actually just my camera.

It's not doing that for my eyes. It's weird is the compressor running right now, no huh and i'm not even getting like the door switch, opening or closing yeah. This thing we might have a bricked controller here. This guy is not responding to touch again.

That flashing is not happening for my eyes. It nothing is happening here, so you come down here. This is the module that controls it. I don't see any damage, but we definitely have a problem somewhere.

Uh yeah. It doesn't look like there's any water damage in here, though, so we could just have a bad control altogether, so i just got off the phone i already confirmed. You know i had a hunch that we had some kind of an issue between the display and the module and we do i caught the true technical support. They suggested what i wanted to do, which is change, the module or the display and the module together and there's a retrofit part number 802 803 for this particular controller.

So uh we're going to go ahead and order that up and then get back out here. But in the meantime, i'm going to go ahead and defrost it and clean the unit up and then just tell the customer. They can use it at their own risk and that they have to empty it out and unplug it. Every night leave the door open because i don't know if this unit is going to defrost on its own.

I highly doubt that it is so. Unfortunately, we can't really do much more on the controller you know to test very much more. I mean we could start jumping stuff out, but this is a propane unit and i'm not really a fan of jumping things out on an r290 unit. So we're going to go ahead and defrost it real, quick and then turn it back on and just tell them that advice until we can get the new control package before we uh put it together, we're gon na rinse the condenser out really good because uh, it's Really dirty and we're over the drain, so we're gon na utilize that and then we're going to put the front grade on and then defrost the evaporator once we get the front grade on so that way, uh the water doesn't come down into the control or anything Like that so and i'll go ahead and rinse out the drain pan too over there, because the drain pan's got a lot of gunk in it.

I got back here this drain. Pan was really dirty and a bunch of corrosion, and luckily my water, that i'm using is hot. So i just got in here and just flushed out the drain. Pan cleaned the copper off hot water got any crud and stuff out of there and then now we're going to put everything back together in the back and the front and then defrost the evaporator.

So this guy's defrosted all the way around everything else looks. Okay looks like we still got a little bit of ice right here. Actually that just broke off so we're looking good there we're going to go ahead and put the unit back together and then just uh hand it over to them and order the parts that we need to order, but we're taking a water hose to the drain line. Too, just to make sure that it's clear, because the manager did complain about water leaking, but it was more than likely just the ice but yeah so we're just blasting it down the drain to make sure it actually drains all right.

We are back today um. It's time to take this thing back apart, we've got a new temperature controller assembly for it so yeah, that's where we're at what we have is a full retrofit kit. Now it happens to be the exact same uh, module and controller, so you've got the controller, and then you have the display or module right there, and it comes with all the wiring and sensors, even a calm line. In case, you need to run a new comb line, so it has instructions in there.

If you guys don't know true, actually has really good information. If you ever go to their tech training classes, you can also download all this stuff off their website. It walks you through how to program everything. I mean everything that you would really be calling true to get the information from it.

Has it in these books and they have these for all the different things that you do for their equipment. So this one just happens to be on temperature controllers without getting crazy, we're not getting this entire sensor assembly out, so they have all the sensors ran back behind there. That's that ribbon, cable going up top and it's encapsulated in the wall. So i don't think you can get it out easily, i'm going to look a little bit more, but it's all going up right there as an assembly and it doesn't doesn't budge when you pull on it.

So we might just be splicing, sensors and hoping that the ribbon cable is good. I don't know what else to tell them, i'm sure they have. They probably have a retrofit kit, like um, when you run new cap tubes, that you run on the inside of the box. I bet you they have something similar for all the sensors if you have to run them.

That's kind of weird um, so yeah i'm going to look into that. I got to get up top here and see what's going on up here so from the looks of it we're going to be splicing sensors, but the first thing i'm gon na do is: is i swapped out the module? Okay, let's go right here: the controller um and we're gon na plug that in and we're gon na plug the display in turn the system on and make sure it works. The next thing is, as i'm doing this, i'm noticing that there's a serial port right here on the controller goes right there, this little guy and it plugs into here and gives the technician the ability to plug in some sort of reading device. I don't know if true does that or if that's lae, but i'm gon na, tell you something.

This customer washes everything down at nighttime, so i'm actually gon na unplug that, because that's just a expansion, cable or whatever on the module and that's going to get wet from them, splashing the box and washing the floors at night. So we're going to leave that unplugged, because that could be a potential source and in fact it almost looks like there's calcium, on that. That's weird, so yeah we're gon na leave that unplugged, because it doesn't need to be there. I don't think for the controller to work.

I think it's just there for diagnostic purposes, but that could be the point of failure as to why the control failed and bricked and totally locked up. So i'm just looking at this guy up in here we're gon na have to defrost this coil a little bit, which is fine, so it looks like we have a coil sensor on the blue. It's going into the evaporator coil. We have an air sensor on the gray or the white, that's return air stream, and then we have this guy floating up in here, and it was just in this cavity up in that area.

I'm thinking that's a defrost um heater safety, maybe if it ever gets too hot, it probably kills the heater or something like that. So we're going to try to turn this guy on and see if it reacts and lets me operate it and if it does then we'll just splice the sensors, but i want to make sure before we do anything else that there's nothing else going on with it. So we don't make the biggest mess in the world um we're going to go ahead and set this guy underneath there and defrost this side then move it over and defrost that side to try to catch as much of the water, because the drain pan's not even Hooked up so getting in there and it's working out perfect, it's all falling down into the drain pan, so it really doesn't take much it's really not that iced up, but we just wanted to make sure it was all gone before we put it all back together. All right, we are powered up, we shut the door and uh, it says off and it's not flashing guys.

That's just yeah there you go. Let's try to turn the power button on see what happens there. We go and see. Now we have access to see the sensors and everything so yeah.

I think we're going to be good, so we're going to make sure it works properly and then we'll get in there and splice the sensors in all right. It's going through its normal process. It now says refrigerations on and evaporative fan motors on, so the evap motor is running and the condensing unit's running so it's on. We just need to give it time.

I want to see it get cold and then we're going to test the defrost all right. It's not ideal to splice sensors, but sometimes you have to do what you have to do so what we do. These are really tiny wires and we're going to use butt connectors, um, the really small pink ones. So i take the wire i strip it and i fold it to give it more meat, because the wires are so small.

The butt connector wouldn't crimp it properly. When we do it, so you see, we have all those and all those so now we're going to get some butt connectors put them on there and then splice them into the sensor wires in the cabinet. So i like to do it like this. I try to keep the sensor the same length where i splice it.

Okay, so i cut off the same length: that's the old one, and then we go butt splices, making sure that we get nice and good and then we do heat shrink to protect them. So that's one and we're gon na repeat for the rest of them. The interesting thing happens when you actually read the manual this yellow probe that was just sitting up in there is actually just a spare probe. It doesn't do anything, so we really didn't have to splice that connection in there, but oh well, yeah, it's not doing anything other than being a spare probe for emergency use in case one ever fails.

So that's good to know. So it's not like a defrost termination or anything it's just sitting up in there all right we're all back together. We just kind of bundled everything up, zip tied it up out there, there's no great organization for these cables, so they're just kind of sitting there. This is our heater that we'll have to put in to the drain pan yeah all as well.

So all right, this guy is taking a really long time to come down to temperature. Now it doesn't have service ports on it so um. What was interesting, though, was when we were here this morning when i got here, it was negative four or something like that, and it was good, but it's still at 53 degrees and it's been running for 45 minutes. So i grabbed the suction line.

The suction line back here is not cold by any means. The discharge line is warm, but it's not hot to touch um, i'm thinking we might be low on charge. Let's see if we pick anything up, i'm trying not to touch it. I'm trying to just stay above it not really picking anything up, nothing really screaming at me, but it should be a lot colder in the box.

It also feels feeling the evaporative coil it doesn't feel like the frost is even it feels like it's only on the bottom, which would be indicative of a low charge situation. The most common places on these is the condensate heater. I lifted it up and we're not picking anything up. It's very interesting.

So when we were here the other day, we picked up the slightest trace, but it's not doing it anymore and i have my leak. Detector set to the highest sensitivity using the gas mate by inficon. Nothing, that's interesting! So it's one of those things where it doesn't have service ports, so it kind of sucks man having to add service parts. But this thing is not coming down to temp very fast.

I'd expect it to drop significantly by now, all right, so we've got the pinch off tool on and we're slowly cutting the line. With the pinch off tool there, the system's turned off power's pulled away: nothing's energized, it's it might possibly leak. We can always re-tighten the pinch-off tool. If we need to.

This is weird. I was thinking about something else too. It's always possible that maybe the defrost heater was running too, but the ice pattern felt weird to me. It was frosted up more towards the bottom, where the heaters were at so that doesn't make sense it might be low, but we're not picking up any leaks.

We did a quick leak search on the evaporator too, and we're not seeing anything. So it's interesting. It should snap right off. Okay, that was a big sketch, but it all worked out.

Sometimes that happens. That's the downside to working with these systems like this. So sometimes you got to re-tighten the pinch-off tool, so we're going to get one braised at a time and then we'll do the other one. Okay.

The first thing we're going to do is wave the flame right here to see if it ignites, so no it doesn't. So that means that the pinch-off tool is doing its job still got to be careful, got safety glasses on always ready for the worst pull it off, throw a wet towel on it. We're good to go we'll put a schrader in it bleed out the gas. Remove the pinch off tool and then do the same on the other one all right, so we got the schrader put in there, but when i push it barely anything comes out because what's happened is the pinch off tool.

This is what sketch about these things. It's pinched too much, so we need a little bit of pressure like that. Now we have that. I don't like these things.

These are not great, but we still don't know if it has a leak or what's going on so we're good there um. This can be a weak spot, so if it's in a shady area, you may want to lay a braise on there or get rid of it completely once we figure out if the system has a leak, but i've seen these leak too, so it can be sketch All right, so we got this one on there, but we need to braise it, but we're going to do a test to see if it's sealed or not nope, so we need to pinch it tighter man, i hate having to go so tight. Try again all right. We're good now, no more leaks, so let's get this guy braised up all right.

We're on hold right now with true technical support to figure out what exactly this thing should be operating at, but it's running in a vacuum, so we're definitely low on charge. That's interesting! That it was down to temp this morning, so it's only running a 75 degree, condensing temp, it's about 75 degrees in here, so it definitely needs some gas. So what we're gon na have to do is pressurize with nitrogen and do a better leak search. All right.

We're gon na leave the propane in there we're gon na put a little nitrogen. The system shut off. It will not run we're ready to go, adding it into the high side. We're gon na get up to about 150 psi on both sides.

Something like that and see where that gets us, i'm gon na stop there and let the pressures equalize out and see what happens all right. Let's see what happens in here, it's kind of sitting in water now, so it's gon na be hard because when it shut off it kind of defrosted a little bit shake it off, move it around. Those are usually the most common place of the league. Let's see what we find still nothing man, i mean it's always a possibility.

We have a capillary tube problem, but i don't think so. Huh no leaks, huh, that's interesting. This guy picks it up. I mean we can prove it right now.

There i just sprayed a little bit out of that. Let's see there so the leak detector works for sure, and just usually it's at these dang condensate heaters all right. Let's try again from the bottom: let's try from the top, nothing not picking up a single trace and we've got nitrogen in it. Let's get into the evaporator back in the evaporator.

Ah, it's up in the evaporator dang thing all right. Let's try back in here anything nope, nothing, let's go back to the evap and see again see if we can duplicate, i'm not seeing it it's interesting. So we had picked up a trace of a leak in here once before too, but we never were able to duplicate it, see i'm thinking it's in here i bumped up the nitrogen pressures just a little bit and i want to see i am so blown away With all the gunk that i rinsed out of here the other day and how much i rinsed this heater, that it is not leaking, that is a trip nope there. It is that's it right there put it back and see if we get it again there.

It is yeah i had to bump the pressures up, so i'm able to duplicate it and there's no water on the tip either looking at the tip to make sure it didn't get wet nope, let's go back to it there. It is it's going again, so it is the condensate heater. Let me go. Try the evap again, because i couldn't duplicate it again.

So all right we're going to try this one more time see if we pick it up in here again. We are we're picking it up in here too, so we're going to have to order an evaporator coil and a condensate heater. That sucks, because i thought we were going to get this thing running bomber all right. We are back for the final time.

Hopefully we're going to go ahead and get into this thing: change the evaporator, coil change, the condensate heater, that's leaking and then kind of go from there and hope that everything else is good. I went ahead and just made the condensate loop because it's quarter inch. It's not a big deal. It's a hot gas condensate loop, so it takes discharge.

Gas runs it through there to evaporate water to try to get the condensation that you know naturally happens from the box, so um, that's that it looks. Okay, we've got an evaporator. That looks like it's right, too: we'll have to pull the assembly apart. Um at this point.

We're just gon na go ahead and vent the charge, because it's our 290 we're outside we'll unplug. It we'll vent the charge and then get started on the replacement, we're in a well ventilated area. So there's no need to even put my service gauges on this guy, we're just going to crack the charge we're outside we'll let it vent out again. This is r290 unodorized propane, so you got to be very careful but we'll let that vent all right.

Here's our evaporator coil uh! This should not be difficult um. They don't even use an accumulator on these anymore because i like went through it with them, asking them for the accumulator and they're like we don't use one so uh all right. We just got to get the heater taken out. It's good.

It was warm because we were running the heater just to test it, but we'll get the heater taken out and then we'll drop out. The evaporator looks like we can unsweat everything right here. It's super easy and it looks like the cap tube is going into a quarter inch line, so that makes it super easy too. So we'll get all this sanded up uh the charge is already vented and we should be good to go all right before we start our r290 repair and any brazen or anything what we're doing is sweeping the system with nitrogen, going in one side out the other.

Now we've got a clean, sweep we'll go ahead and turn this over to braze and then for the rest of our working, we'll just have it on the braze function, but we did a quick sweep of the system to try to get any pockets out now. There's always potential that there's still pockets left so be very cautious when working with our 290 systems, all right, brazing with nitrogen, when you're on a capillary tube system. I just realized. I forgot this - was cap tube for a second.

I went to go open up this guy right here and i'm getting a lot of pressure, but i'm open on this port right here right, so we're pushing through on the liquid line and we should be coming out on the suction line. But i had a massive amount of pressure here, but it's because the capillary tube creates a pressure differential so that cap tube up there is a problem when we're bracing with nitrogen. So sometimes you might have to turn the nitrogen off, because this pressure that builds up in there doesn't get relieved fast enough, because the cap tube is restricting it got the regulator set to test. This is the vn500 from western enterprises.

Nitrogen's opened up pressure's right here. Good open that yeah close those guys down, i'm in the tightness test in the field piece manifold, so we're gon na go ahead and put pressure onto the high side. We should see it coming through on the low side and that'll ensure that it's moving through the capillary tubes. You see how slow we've got 300 psi on the high side and look at how slow it's moving through.

Now, that's fine! It's a capillary tube, but that's just proving the point of why it's difficult to braze, with nitrogen flowing through the system, because you're building that back pressure as the pressure's going through the metering device or the capillary tube. So we're going to give it some time. It's moving, i'm feeling pretty confident about that, so we're going to let it equalize out we'll just open this guy actually turn this off real, quick, open. This guy open this guy equalize the pressures out, get it to about 150 psi, so we're using a giant vacuum pump and giant hoses, but we're actually limited by the size of the copper inside the system.

So um these hoses are not being allowed to use their full potential right um, but it's fine. I mean it's still a better setup. I mean i have a manifold too and if i have to i can use my manifold, but i still like to use the hoses whenever possible. Now, yes, they are overkill, but it's all good.

So right now, i'm pulling from both sides. So that's not an accurate representation of what's going on in the system, because there's capillary tubes and there's restrictions in the system. So it's going to pull down on the micron gauge faster, because it's pulling from this hose and the micro engages right there and it can be proven when i shut it off. Let's see how fast it rises, so you see in in decay, it will rise.

That is normal, but it's going to take some time. Okay, so this is not an accurate number. It's really in the decay that you need to give it time right. So you pull down if you can pull from one side, if you have to pull from both sides, i usually will pull from both sides to get an initial pull down and then i'll go ahead and start valving off that core removal tool and then you'll get A true representation of what's going on in the system, but you can see, i mean it dropped down to like 300 microns for a second and then now it's it's steadily climbing up doesn't necessarily mean a leak.

It just means that we were pulling on the micron gauge more than we were actually pulling on the system. So you just have to understand the process here and what's going on and how to analyze the data that you get from this okay. So it's still rising and that's to be expected. Um because yeah, it's just got ta catch up all right.

We are in a decay now and it's just slowly. Rising got both sides isolated off i'm gon na. Let it sit for a few more minutes, but i'm pretty confident we don't have any leaks. So here we go my little setup right here.

So what we do we're gon na purge it right now. We have this closed, so i leave this slightly loose open. This up boom. We know that it's purged right and now um.

This guy is gon na, be my ball valve that we're going to use so we're going to charge with that ball valve, i'm going to go ahead and open this up, we're looking for 2.8 ounces! So this guy barely takes any gas um, so we're on ounces and uh yeah everything's good using the field piece app. The joblink app um everything's zeroed we've got refrigerant, so we're gon na leave this guy on until we have pressure in the system, so we're adding refrigerant right now and give it in a second okay. It's got about one ounce in it again we're going for 2.8 ounces, so we're just gon na. Let it keep running um, it's it's a very, very small system.

So it's going to take time to get all this there's two all right. So at this point we can go ahead and pull off the micron gauge. Okay, and what we're gon na do is uh, go ahead and finish charging from the low side. So on this guy right here you just hit hold boom.

Yes, i want to hold that weight and then it'll. Allow me to switch that hose over and then continue with the process all right now that we're on to the low side. Now we purged everything the charge is 2.8 ounces right, but here's the thing i did custom fabricate a hot gas condensate heater. I tried to match the exact dimensions of the other one, but it might be slightly off so we're going to go ahead and power.

The system up, i know what refrigerant pressures that should be running and we're going to kind of feel the just as necessary. So we've got the uh the handle up here too, just verifying everything before we start it up we're just doing a quick leak search. Just double checking all my braze joints making sure nothing's leaking it. Isn't we already did the evaporator so we're basically ready to plug this guy in shut the door and see it come down to town all right.

I've got my field piece. Joblink probes on we've got the joblink app opened up. We are still low on gas, which i expected what the heck condenser fan motor just shut off. What's, oh, it must have that uh.

This is true. Does this sometimes they do it backwards for a minute. So that way it clears the dust from the condenser. So, okay, we're running so we're gon na give it a second watch.

Our pressures um. If i remember right, i'll have to go look at my chart, but i think it's minimum 10 psi on the suction when it's down to temp, so we're definitely still low, which we know we are so we're going to add a little bit of gas. We are running um manufacturer, says 10 to 12 psi about 170 psi for um like a 75 degree kitchen. Well, it's like 60 degrees outside, so our head pressure is going to be significantly lower.

Now the box is still at 50 degrees, so we're just giving it some time also understand something that, because this has such a small charge, we're not going to be able to weigh in like right now we're at 3.5 ounces. Okay, i don't necessarily have 3.5 ounces in the system, because you have the the space of these core removal tools and everything and there's going to be some loss here. So it's never going to be 100 precise in a perfect world you charge without putting gauges on there. Then you can be a little bit more precise, but i needed to see this system operate because we were having refrigeration problems before so it's it's always a gamble and you've got to kind of understand, what's going on and make some educated guesses.

So i always go a little bit over um on the the charge just because it's going to account for what i'm going to lose when i take the gauges off, but we're just kind of watching it operate, we're going to watch it for a little bit. Suction pressure is a little bit on the high side, but again, i'm not too worried about it, because we are going to lose some when we take the gauges off or the probes off we're. Looking good there we're about just a little over or just a little under 20 degrees over condensing temp, so 68, so we're about 86 saturation. It is r290 um.

Let's see my box temp right now, it's about 16 degrees. I know that it's not flashing like that. It's just the way that my camera sees it, so it's about 16 degrees in the box, so it's kicking butt, so we're going to watch it for a few more minutes. We're gon na start cleaning up our messes.

Now this little region freezer kicked my butt. It was three different trips. We had the initial trip that we went out there where we diagnosed a bad temperature controller. Now i didn't get video footage of it, but that day, just because i like to do this stuff out of curiosity when i ordered the temp control, i ran my leak detector across everything, and i got a very, very small hit in the condensate drain heater and In the evaporator right in the spots where it was leaking, but i couldn't duplicate them: okay and i went ahead and left and then obviously you guys saw when i came back to change the temp control.

How i noticed, and and on these boxes i mean you kind of get used to them when you work on them. You know like how long they should take to come down to temperature, and this thing had been running for like 45 minutes and it barely dropped. Anything the day that i changed, the temp control. So that's where i was like: oh man, you know so then, the third time i came out with the new evaporator new condensate heater dryer, all that good stuff and we were able to dial it in and when i got done, fixing it that time it came Down to temp in like 25 minutes so right, you know no problem, but all right.

We ran into some problems and problems happen. Okay, i i've i've run into these same issues, a lot um the pinch-off tool right, the pinch-off tool. When i was trying to pinch the lines to braze on the the connections, because the system doesn't come with service ports right um, i noticed that uh, it wasn't pinching right, you know, and sometimes that happens you just it's something about the copper. I think because i usually have that set to where you don't have to change it and it works perfect, but it must be like new and old copper not being as pliable or something like that.

But you know you got to make adjustments and everything. So just be prepared, remember you always need to be ready for the worst in these situations and just like i did several times purge the system with nitrogen right and then i also ran into a problem when i was purging with nitrogen, because when i went to Go braze um i was having back pressure build up and it was a problem, so i i've run into this before and most of the times when you work with capillary tube systems. You can't really use nitrogen when you're brazing, because that capillary tube just creates a buildup of back pressure on the high side, and it just leads to issues when you're, trying to braze everything shut. So and if you have a system that has pressure in it.

When you try to braze, what's going to happen, is every time you lay solder on that joint, it's going to bubble and air the air. You know that's in the system or or the pressure. That's in the system is pushing the the solder out and just creating a little micro leak, so um run into a few issues right. It is what it is.

This is how this stuff happens, like i said, just be prepared: okay, so um. When i went to go order all the parts it was going to be an issue ordering the condensate heater. It was going to take a little while and i kind of looked at it and i was like man. I could make that thing.

It's just about a quarter inch anyways. It wasn't absolutely perfect, but it it'll work. Just fine. It's important, though you know you don't add a lot of extra volume to the system, because if you do then you're going to mess up the the the refrigerant charge right so um, i tried as hard as i could to get that as identical as possible to The old condensate heater that way it wasn't any longer any shorter.

You know i tried to make it the same, and i think i got pretty darn close. It just wasn't quite as round as i would have liked it to have been, but it is what it is you know um with these things. Experience gives you a lot of knowledge right with these regions. Why do i run leak detectors across the system? You know if i'm there to change a temp control, sometimes right and it's because of situations like this one.

It doesn't always happen, but what should have been fixed in two days or two trips led to three trips, because we found refrigerant leaks too. You know - and it was just a weird circumstance where it wasn't picking up the leak, but it was probably just very, very small. You know these. These things can be frustrating right.

So it's always important too that you cover your butt with the customer. Explain everything you know have conversations with them when they walk by just say: hey man, i got to tell you. This is really frustrating to just kind of vent to them right, but about the box. It's just a way to like start a conversation to bring them into your mind and how things are happening with the box right so that way, they're in the loop and they're not so upset when you're all done.

You've been there for four hours, and you say you know what i wasn't able to fix it. I have to come back now. You know. Instead, you, you know, you keep them in the loop, the entire time, so again try to make that casual conversation make them comfortable with your diagnoses and then, when you run into problems, they trust you.

You know it's so important. So all together, this box turned out fine, okay. I couldn't believe that the customer wanted to spend that much money on it, but it was only three and a half years old. So i guess i get the idea, but you know it was quite expensive to make all those repairs, but you know it's not.

I didn't sell in the box. You know i mean i'm just going to get my parts and making an honest markup on them and selling them to them. So you know i can't be responsible for how expensive things are and all that stuff, and it is what it is. You know i still got to make a profit, so i really really appreciate you guys making it to the end of the video as usual.

I always say this: if you guys haven't already, please please consider uh supporting the channel the easiest way to support the channel. I've said this so many times. This goes with any youtube creator right if they have monetization on the easiest way to support their channels is watch their content from beginning to end without skipping through anything. Okay, youtube runs ads and they share that ad revenue.

Well, a very small small percentage of the ad revenue they share with the creator. If the creator has monetization turned on so by simply just watching a video and not skipping through anything, you guys have helped out that creator. Also, leave feedback leave comments for myself or any other creators. You know always leave feedback uh, you know interact with them, uh give them a thumbs up.

As of today. I think i heard that youtube is getting rid of the thumbs down, which i think is silly. Whatever, though um, i think yeah anyways, that's a whole nother conversation for a live stream, but um uh again, i lost my train of thought there for a second, but i really really appreciate you guys um uh, supporting in any way you can, especially with the watching Of uh the content without skipping through anything, so that's the most important thing: okay, um other ways to support this channel. If you so are interested in doing so, uh go to my website.

Hvacrvideos.Com. Okay, i have merchandise available on there, shirts, hats, sweaters, beanies, all kinds of cool stuff. We have women's t-shirts. We have two different styles of men's t-shirts with a couple different colors, so it's just a cool way to get something and help to support the channel.

I try not to stomp on the the merch too much. I think i have like a five dollar um profit after all, my expenses and stuff on the shirt, so i'm not trying to make crazy money. I make five dollars an item, so you know it's just it's just a cool way to support it. If you guys are interested in purchasing these tools go to truetechtools.com, they got lots of great stuff available.

I have an affiliate code with them and an affiliate commission program set up with them. So if you guys know what you're going to purchase from them shoot me an email, i can generate an affiliate link. I get a small commission from the affiliate link and the cool thing is at the same time you guys can use my offer code. Big picture.

One word right, pretty easy to come up with that. One um big picture, one word and, as of today, 11 10 of 21, you guys will get an eight percent discount on your order. Um, you can still use my um offer code. If you do the affiliate link thing where you send me the link, the email and i generate a link for you um, you could still use the offer code, big picture, so you'll still save you know, get a discount and stuff, and then i get a small Commission from the offer code too so um uh other ways: patreon youtube, channel memberships, paypal, uh, there's links in the show notes to all those different methods, if you're in so interested in doing that and yeah.

That is it guys. I really really appreciate you guys making it to the end and we will catch you on the next one.