Well, we got a service call on a walk-in freezer, not working, and i wonder why the door is propped open and uh yeah. It's all. I stopped it says cooling, but it's clearly hitting something here. This video is brought to you by heat craft refrigeration.

All right, i turned off the disconnect switch outside, but the evaporator fan motors are still running. Okay. This is a heat craft, intelligent evaporator, so it has a smart circuit board inside of it and controls all the functions he crafts specs in their installation and operation manual that the evaporator should have an independent power source from the condensing unit. The reason why they do that is because there is a low voltage transformer actually in this side right here that supplies the low voltage for the intelligent board and that intelligent board is very susceptible to power fluctuations.

So on the uh low voltage transformer they do not want that coming from the power source of the condensing unit, just in case there's voltage drops when the compressor turns on, and things like that. So this one i installed a while back and i followed the manufacturer's specs. It's always important to understand how this equipment is supposed to be installed and how it's actually installed. Okay, i'm not going to stand on a high horse and say i've never installed.

One of these evaporators and and missed an installation best practice or something i'm not perfect, but i always try my best okay. Now. I also want to point out that we're getting a yellow led on the intelligent display it flashes different colors, to tell you when there's alarm or issues right now. I can guarantee it's an issue because it's not noticing a superheat change in a certain amount of time and the heat craft.

Intelligent is always looking for that superheat change and if it doesn't have it it's going to trigger an alert of which it has. It has a yellow alert right now. It is very rare that i come into a room that doesn't have a ton of stuff in it. Now this one has a few things, looks like there's a couple benches in here, but it's not as bad as it could be.

Um. I have labeling that i wrote on the coil that says panel m breaker, 25 and 27 right here, walk-in freezer coil. There we go now the power's turned off all right, so we've got severe amount of ice here, and i see a big problem here and i'm gon na have to talk to well. I'm not gon na have to talk to him, because i had a previous technician.

Help me with this: he no longer works for me, but regardless um we're gon na fix this issue. This is not a problem, but if you look this right here, we have a uh a door switch. Basically when they open the door. You twist a twist timer and it pumps down the coil or at least sends a signal to the coil and tells it to shut down.

Well, if you look at how the wires were ran, that is a potential electrical short because they're ran where they can potentially rub out against the fan bracket right here, so we'll have to correct that. Luckily, it didn't create a problem, yet it's obviously been working. This way for a while, but still also when you run wires like this look at how it was ran, i hate it when wires are zip tied to this bracket, because this bracket, you have to defrost this coil a lot and you have to take it out. So it's not a good idea to zip tie them, but if you have to zip time, you want to do it in a way where they're not going to have to be taken off every single time.

So, but also you can do a double zip tie where you never have potential of them rubbing out so we'll inspect these wires, but we got it turned off. We need. We can't get the fan motors out, unfortunately, because of how iced up it is so we're gon na have to defrost. It then pull the fan motors out and then we'll fix this uh control, wiring right here, all right, nice and slow on the low setting and when i get around the fan motor i'll turn it onto the mist setting.

But i'm just trying to get most of the ice from behind the bracket, trying not to get all over the motor these motors have. They can kind of handle a little bit of moisture, but you still don't want to soak them. You know all right a little bit at a time. I guess i should address something so normally when i have an iced up, walk-in freezer.

I want to uh um check the defrost heaters first, so i'll throw the unit into defrost and test them while it's iced up, but i guess i kind of glanced over thing. This is not iced up. This is only ice on the front of the coil. That's how i kind of said it was from the door being left open, because if you come back over here and you see it, it's not even iced up there.

It's just iced up on the front of the coil, basically um, but we're still gon na test. The heaters and make sure everything's working properly. You know my last clip. I showed the back of the coil.

That was just frost, that's normal. It wasn't iced up through, i could see through it, so i was able to just break free most of this stuff. Just using the mist setting got that one done too: it's not iced up on the back. Now there is a little bit of frost and ice in here.

I went ahead and loosened. There's two screws right here and right here. This whole thing kind of moves to the side, and then i pulled the two screws for the transformer. So that way i don't have to soak it and then we're gon na rinse all that stuff out real quick.

So i always keep a headlight in my bag. So that way, when i'm working on these, you know it makes easier illuminating things now my flashlight has a flash, but you know obviously i'm not holding that while i'm working the entire time, so i guess i should say my phone has a flash, but so you Can see this wire, so i'm gon na redo this you can see how it was ran. Um. You know not not our greatest work so luckily, like i said we were able to fix it before it became a problem, and that is just control voltage, but still um.

This is literally going to a twist timer, so we'll i'll fix this real, quick and we'll run it down here. Zip tie it to all these wires and it won't have it, hopefully anything to do with the brackets ever. It really was not that hard to grab the wires pull them down through that knockout. Instead of that one up there, and then just zip tie them to these wires right running through that nice and safe there's little knockouts keeping the wire safe, nothing's gon na rub.

Nothing's gon na hit there's no metal brackets in the way it's good and then coming out here connecting right in here. So we're good to go kind of comes over here fishes through the through there. So yeah that's much better. It's a much better way to do it all is good we're going to put this guy together and then test the operations, but i don't think we're going to find anything else wrong other than them, leaving that door open all the time.

All right now, we've got power turned back on this monitor on here. It's going to be a few minutes before it turns on so box times 34 degrees, box, temp, set point negative 10. operating mode is off because it's in a delay right now, it'll take a few minutes date. Information is correct, doesn't see any major problems.

You can see it's pumped down right now, because our suction pressure is at four psi. Exv is completely closed at zero steps. There's that board voltage. That's very, very critical, so they're worried that it might dip.

Also that transformer uh is tapped for 208 volts. You can tap it for 240 or 208. You got to make sure it's tapped correctly, because that'll mess with the board voltage, um everything's, looking fine, so we're just waiting for it to turn on and then we'll check the system operations. There was no ice back in here where the eev is at so there's just a couple: sensors you're gon na have a pressure transducer back there.

You're gon na have a couple temperature, sensors, suction line, temp sensor, evaporator temperature sensor, air temp sensor, but um we'll check everything and make sure it's all working all right, so condensed units opened up system is running. Nothing out of the ordinary in here. Evaporative coils are running, see, we've got everything labeled we installed this in five, twenty one, twenty um sight glass is clear, so that's good, so we're just gon na let it come down in temperature, uh, nice and good, and then we'll test all the defrost heaters and Make sure everything's good all right so now we're just looking at the low side looks like my superheat's about two degrees, three degrees, that's what it says on the board too. So that looks good.

There's nothing! Funky going on in here pressures. Look about right! We can compare them to what this guy says: suction pressure. 14 psi! That's about what i'm reading on mine. So everything looks fine.

I don't see any issues as far as refrigeration goes so with that being said, let's go ahead and push this guy into a defrost. So we'll go home and we'll change it to defrost settings. We're gon na go to force defrost it's gon na ask for the expert pan. I believe.

That's all nines if i remember right, there's two pins to be concerned with all eights and all nines and i believe the expert pin is nine there we go we're going into a defrost and we're pumping down the fan should shut off and then we should be Able to test all the defrost heaters all right. So if we just come up here to end, we have 201 volts. So that's good and then now we just need to test current on the different heaters. So there's one at the bottom of the coil one in the middle of the coil one at the top of the coil and one in the drain pan.

So there's four heaters: total um. If you look at all the wires on one of the terminals, the h2 or the h1 you'll see that there's four wires on each one, so we have to get a current reading on all four wires. That's one of the coil heaters 1.08 amps. That is a drain pan heater 1.11.

So now we have two more coil heaters to go. There's two amps on one of them make sure i'm not getting anything else, nope, that's one of the coil heaters. Now we got to jump on the last coil heater two amps on another 2.3, so we're good to go on that, so that looks good um. That should be this wire right here.

If i remember it, if i can get this on here, there you go and there's all my heaters running together. So all my heaters are fine, don't see any problems there we'll inspect the relay on the other side, because i have seen issues where it melts and stuff. But i don't see any issues here. Limit switches don't seem to be a problem, so it's defrosting right now.

You always want to look in here uh. They give you led lights to tell you what relays are energized too. So that's kind of cool turn that off and you'll see um but yeah. I don't see any issues with the defrost terminals.

Everything looks fine there. I don't see any issues here. Nothing telling me that there's a reason why this thing iced up other than them, leaving that door open so um and judging by where the ice was the defrost heaters were taking care of the coil. The coil was defrosted.

It was just built up in front of the coil so and that the sensors and the heaters can't really tell, and that's just misuse basically, so we can run through the settings here just to make sure all is well. So if we go into here, it says we're still defrosting, it's electric defrost, it's using demand defrost, so it's only defrosting when it needs to since 12. Am it's done four defrost? So it has an algorithm built into it. The failsafe time is 45 minutes and the temperature at which it will end is 60 degrees at the coil sensor after it defrosts.

It has a two two minute drip time and it does not have dual coils. Everything else looks fine and it's defrosting. So we're going to go ahead and end the defrost and then we'll restart this all right. Overall, everything looks good.

I don't see any problems, it's very important when you're working on these intelligent systems or qrc systems, they're similar to a beacon system, but they don't have any communication outside and if they don't have communication, you cannot have any time delay relays. According to heat, craft tech support and their installation manual, so if it's a beacon system - and it has low voltage, wiring coming out - you're allowed to have time delay relays the ones that come with the system. But this is a off-the-shelf condensing unit and from the factory it comes with a time delay relay to prevent short cycling for the compressor, but with the intelligent system, because it doesn't have communication outside. We cannot have that time.

Delay relay so we did our job correctly. On install and removed it, it was right there. You just have to make sure that your pressure control is set accordingly, because you don't want the short cycling on off on off on off other than that. Everything else is good.

Don't see any major issues out here, uh liquid injection, this guy right here you can tell it's working because it's very, very cold right here, okay, so this takes liquid. Coming from the liquid line coming out of the expansion, i mean out of the dryer after the side, glass, solid column of liquid goes through a solenoid valve that, whenever the compressor energized that solenoid valve opens - and it dumps liquid into the head of the compressor to Try to cool it off, because when you have the high compression ratio situations that you get in a low temp environment, those compressors can get really hot on the inside, so they actually inject liquid and meter it. So this is a metering device. Really that's what it is.

So it's coming out. You know, 90 degree liquid 80 degree. Liquid and right here is probably 45 degrees, so it's it's injecting into the head of the compressor. Sometimes they do it like this other times they have a dtc valve a discharge.

Temperature controlled expansion valve. Basically that has a sensible that goes in the head of the compressor right here, but because this one has the capillary tube or fixed orifice style, that's right! There! Okay! So if you ever have this, you have to make sure that that solenoid valve is installed, because you do not want this in the off cycle. You do not want liquid migrating into that compressor, so this one has a solenoid valve and if you follow the wires back, what's actually happening right down here in the bottom, that little blue thing that says: rnk, electronics, that's a current sensing device. So when it senses the current of the compressor, it sends power to that solenoid valve and that energizes and allows liquid to go in.

So all right. We're going to put this guy back together. Go inside. I don't know what happened right now, either satisfied.

It might have satisfied, it's hard to say so i'll run in there and see what happened there. They may have turned the twist timer too, because they have that uh pumped down timer on the door, so we're gon na put this guy back together. Put all the caps back on and uh go check out the evaporator again one more time so yeah they did. What they're supposed to do - and they have the twist time - return because they're loading the box right now, but so it's in product load mode, um, yeah! Everything else is gon na be fine.

I'm just gon na make sure this guy turns back on. But let's talk about the intelligent, real quick, so the intelligent is a standalone controller that operates the and the eev actually operates as a liquid line solenoid valve, so they use the eev to pump the system down. It's got an evaporator sensor, suction line sensor and an air temperature sensor, and then a pressure transducer and with all four of those components or yeah for those components, it's able to regulate the superheat, make the eev open and close, and then there's logic in this guy And this acts as the temp control too now the unit still does have a defrost termination switch and a heater safety just to be safe or actually it still has a heater safety but yeah other than that it acts as a normal freezer. Coil, there's nothing too complicated about these things, so it's just about how so it looks it even tells you they've got 19 minutes left before it automatically turns the system back on too all right, it's back on and running everything's good, so we're going to give them The keys and tell them to keep an eye on it.

So when the customers ask us, you know, why does our box keep icing up? Well, you know this is why, right you can't prop doors open now, unfortunately, with the craziness going on right now, it's hard for restaurants to have uh. You know, staff that lasts for long periods of time right, there's a high turnover rate in the kitchens right now and it's difficult for the restaurants to get people staffed up properly. Now, i'm not necessarily making excuses. I'm just observing right, i observe from the outside in and i'm able to say, and i and i also have a direct line of communication with management too and higher up.

You know corporate management and stuff, but they know it too, but this is a struggle, we're having constant iced up evaporators walk-in coolers, freezers, all that, because people are leaving doors open. It's it's horrendous. Now, i'm trying as hard as i can to try to get uh. You know the higher-ups to approve me to remedy these situations with door alarms with curtains with air curtains with different things, but man they don't want to spend the money on that stuff.

Okay in this situation, it it's actually not that difficult on an intelligent evaporator. All they have to do is allow me to mount this board on the intelligent module. This is gives us the ability to have internet connectivity with the intelligent, evaporator. Okay, it's got an ethernet port on it, we can program it and set it up, and the customer myself, whoever we designate as the person that needs to get the notifications can get the notifications when something bad happens.

This is a heat craft. Part heatcraft makes these availables you can order them. Part number on this is a 289 18301, not too difficult. You know, and if they had this, then they could.

You know, have the internet connectivity and you know, then they could be alerted and notified okay. So it really comes down to the customer understanding how their product is supposed to be used. Okay, now we have a door switch. That's a twist timer, okay, that twist timer when you twist it it's a 15 minute timer the evaporator shuts down the motors turn off and um.

It's it's a product load switch is really what it is. It's for them to go in and out of the box and they're supposed to turn that now occasionally they do but then other times they don't. And i try to advise customers as much as possible to not put things by the doors, because that's where the cooks, when they're coming in and out now, this kitchen staff - and you know again outside looking in these guys - are overworked they're coming into this they're they're. Under pressure you know they don't have time necessarily to take their time and make sure everything's, you know correct, make sure doors are shut and all that stuff, because they've got food.

That's gon na get burnt or different things like that. So it's just kind of a game you have to play when you're in the restaurant industry. Okay. Now, as far as going through the equipment, i needed to fix some issues because we did install the equipment, but i was not part of the person that had ran the uh twist.

Timer wiring right or the door switch wiring, and i wasn't too happy with the way that it was ran. It was ran in a method that potentially could have caused a future breakdown. Okay - and luckily i found it before that happened. Okay and i was able to correct it - fix it so that way we didn't have any more issues, okay, other than that i mean it's, a typical uh, walk-in, freezer, evaporator and intelligent install.

You know very important when you're doing the intelligent equipment, the qrc equipment. You know you want to make sure you have independent power sources for the evaporator. Now this can be a challenge when you're installing these intelligent, evaporators, the qrc evaporators, the qrc, is kind of the legacy ones right, they're, not really manufacturing those anymore. It's the intelligent, but you know you need to follow the manufacturer's installation instructions when you're going through this equipment, making sure that you install it according to their spec and if you don't, there potentially could be repercussions and you have to be prepared for those repercussions.

Okay in this situation, you know they're concerned about uh. You know voltage issues that circuit board is very, very susceptible to uh voltage fluctuations. Uh. You know they don't want to see very low voltage on that uh 24 volt evaporator.

Basically, so that's one of the main reasons, maybe not the only reason, but that's one of the main reasons why they want an independent power source for the evaporator. And the point that i was trying to make is on the older equipment. We used to power the evaporator from the outside condensing unit, but that does not work on this new equipment. It's just how things are happening right.

You got to make sure you follow their installation instructions and then you should be problem free. Besides, you know occasional issues or customer abuse in this situation right. This is happening more and more, so it's kind of crazy, but i really appreciate you all making it to the end of the video. Thank you so very much for your support.

Do me a favor leave me put some feedback down in the youtube comments. Let me know what you think: hey i'm open to criticism, i'm open to feedback. If you got it put it in there put it in the comments, and let me know what you think: okay, i really appreciate you all and uh we will catch you on the next one. Okay,.