This video is brought to you by sportlin quality, integrity and tradition. Today, the customer is complaining about ac is not operating, so we're just going to kind of go through them, see, what's going on see what units are down and if there's anything we can do the kitchen's. Definitely something this one right here. This is not working 100, but they also run a really hot kitchen.

So our first step is going to be go downstairs. Um check the uh thermostats make sure they're calling or if every unit's running, then we know that they're calling so we'll have to see we're. Just going to go through it all, this is the first ac we're starting at and it's running, but only one fan motor is running. Only one compressor is calling.

It looks like compressor. Two is running, but compressor one is not so that's a problem. We're gon na start by checking between x and c, and we have 24 volts or 23 volts at x and c, which means that a limit switch is open, because this one has the compressor lockout board and whenever a limit switch opens, it sends power over to X to let you know so: theoretically, you could put like an indicator light or something down in a mechanical room. You could do all kinds of stuff if you wanted to signal somehow that there was a problem.

Um what's interesting is both compressors are off right now, but one of them is pulled in and it sounds like the condenser fan motor is trying to start right now. It's buzzing, but oh, no one compressor is running. Second stage is running first stage is not, and it's hotter than crap, so, okay, so it sounds like maybe we're gon na have a bad condenser familiar. So what we can do is we can actually test the condenser fan motor.

We need to find out which wire is going over, so it's the bigger yellow. So it's going to be right here, so we test this bigger, yellow wire right here and we test this bigger black wire to see. If we have 208 volts going to the condenser fan motor okay, so we can get on the little terminal in the back right. There there you go and then go ahead and test in this guy yeah inside this yellow one, and we have 197 volts okay, so that seems a little low.

What is our incoming power on this unit right now so line one two and three black yellow blue. So test right there tell us what our incoming power is line, one to two 197, okay, one to three 199: okay, two to three. What so we have three phase power: it is lower uh, it's a hotter day. We get this happening here um, so we definitely have a bad condenser fan motor, but before we do anything else, um, let's go ahead and kill the power to the unit.

Let's just double check one thing and that that there's not a problem with our capacitor. All right so we're testing the capacitor. Let's see, we've got nine point. Nine.

Three! That's fine! Now test the other one, ten, so pretty darn good! Remember it's uh, plus or minus five percent is what they're calling for so um we're? Okay with that, so we definitely have a bad condenser fan motor. It's locked up of some sort out of curiosity, let's go over here and just see. Does it even spin? Well, it does because we saw it running backwards earlier, so yeah it spins, but it's just bad, so uh we've got that this one looks like it's been replaced fairly recently. I think i did that um.

So we know that's an issue with this one. So we need to get that fixed before we can really troubleshoot any further on this unit, but we're just triaging right now, so we're going to get a list of things this unit hasn't even started running every other unit is running whether or not they're. Running correctly. We don't know, but this one that we're on right now i saw a fan motor wasn't spinning, so we jumped on that first that one ac3 over there is not running at all.

So that's gon na be our next one. So we turn this one back on and that motor is just locked up doesn't want to go, try turning it, it's just not working so definitely a bad motor. Now we're gon na come over to this unit right here. This is our ac number three, so we're gon na start with the same troubleshooting process.

This is a carrier unit, so we're gon na check three-phase power coming in then we're gon na check control voltage. Then we're gon na check to see if uh the lockout switch is engaged. So let's go ahead and test three phase power coming in first remember: carrier uses two pole contactors, so one and two 200 volts one to three 200 volts and then 199. Okay, we have three phase power coming in next thing we want to check is 24 volts.

We can just check it very easily between r and c 25 volts, fair enough. Now, let's check between x and c 25 volts between x and c, which means we're off on lockout. For some reason we don't know: why is it fan motors? Is it compressor? Is it low on gas? It could be? Who knows so at this point we need to cycle power to the unit. Okay, cycling power is going to reset the lockout.

You can also pull wires from the lockout board, but the easiest way is just go ahead and cycle power so turn it off. Okay, go ahead and turn it back on all right now, at this point too, because we cycled power more than likely, we uh turned off the thermostat and turned it back on. So it's going to go back to its normal schedule. I had ramped it way down.

So we're probably going to have to jump it out unless it's hot in that room, and i don't think it was so, let's test between c and y1 no call yet cny2, no call yet or something weird, but we'll get the jumpers out, because we know that It works so we'll check it there, all right, so we jumped it out and only compressor two is pulling in compressor. One is not pulling in and the condenser fan motors aren't running. So we need to test across the contactor coil right here and right here on compressor, one to see if you're getting voltage telling it to call in nope contact your coils on the sides there you go. Let's pull this over here, so we can see it there.

You go no voltage, so that could mean a pressure control issue, so it just shut off on high pressure because it was running the second stage compressor without any fan motors. So we know that we're getting a call for cooling for whatever reason y1 and y2 are jumped together. So we know we're getting a call for cooling, but it's not making its way back to the contactor to pull it in. So we got to figure out where our loss is.

Is it a refrigerant loss? It's on the first stage, compressor, so we're going to investigate that further at this point, go ahead and kill power, okay and then, let's test to see if there's any refrigerant in the first stage, compressor easiest way to test. That is just pull this. It doesn't feel like there's any refrigerant in there. Let's go ahead and check this.

Maybe these core max fittings can be tricky. Oh no plenty of refrigerant, so there doesn't look to be a manual reset pressure control. It's all auto reset. So, there's a high side pressure control on the discharge line and then there's typically a loss of charge switch on the liquid line.

They don't do a low side pressure. I don't know why. I never understood that with carrier, but um they would detect their restricted, fixed orifice metering devices if they put it on the low side um. Okay.

So we need to put service gauges on this guy and figure out why the compressor is not turning on all right. We're going to try this again, we have uh the power jumped out. Okay, we're gon na test power coming in on the lockout board, which is on the top going into two go two to ground: that's, not a good ground! You need to get a good ground there. You go two to ground, nothing, okay, go three to ground; okay, go ahead and turn the unit off all right.

Let's go down and look at the schematic and we're going to explain what's going on here. So we did not here's our schematic, okay and we did not have power coming into two of the logic board. Here's our logic board right here and you can see that power comes in on gray, goes into two and then it chooses to go through to three or to come back to x. Okay, so if we don't have power at two, then we need to follow it back and it's going to the economizer see we've got the economizer plug right here, so we need to go check our economizer, because that is likely where our problem is at.

We know we have power on y1, it comes out of y1 goes through. The economizer then comes out of the economizer and goes to the logic board. So if we don't have power at the logic board, the only other suspect would either be a broken wire or an issue in the economizer. So if you look right here, the economizer and the connection see there's a jumper in there or there should be a jumper and most of the time it's missing a blue and yellow it jumps the yellow to the orange and then the blue, to the gray and Once you do that, so it looks like let's go, look at the economizer assembly and see if there's anything going on at that, i'm over here yeah.

It looks like right here so go ahead and open this panel right here, lift up on the corners two hands. One on each side: there you go slide it out, and here's our economizer logic see the jumper wire is not in there anymore. More than likely are - and i mean you can't tell me that thing is even working at all. Yeah, look at the economizer's got a screw in there because it's it's probably broken, but it hasn't been bypassed.

So i can pretty much guarantee you our problem's going to be here with that being said, just go ahead and close this up and we'll bypass the economizer from the other side, we'll just end up getting in here and grabbing the economizer wires as they leave, and Then just connect them real, quick. What we did was we took the wires from the thermostat board and we ran it straight into the logic: controller, okay and we bypass the economizer. Here's the economizer right here, um the pressure controls are still in the picture. So we're not bypassing any pressure controls.

So at this point we can turn it on and uh. If everything's working correctly, both condenser fan motors and both compressor contactors should pull in, looks like no, that's not the case. There goes one, but the other compressor contactor is not pulling in for some reason, so we need to figure out a little bit further again. This doesn't make sense, though, because compressor two is pulled in, but not compressor, one, it's odd, so we need to trace it down a little bit further.

So this is an odd turn of events. I mean there's still a lot going on here, but we test the condenser fan motor relay and we have 24 volts, so the condenser fan motor relay is now pulling in and that's this guy back in here. Okay, so we do have 24 volts going there, but we do not have 24 volts going to this. So the way that this logic board works power comes in on two and then it jumps over to the condenser fan motor relay.

But then it comes out on three runs through the pressure controls once it goes through the high and the low, then it goes to the contactor. It also has a free stat somewhere in that mix too. Sometimes so we need to follow the wires now and figure out where our power is getting lost because we're not getting it to the contactor. We definitely have refrigerant pressures, high and low.

That's just on that one compressor. We have a high pressure control right here and then we have low pressure control actually like i said they have high pressure and then loss of charge it could be in those. So we can isolate and figure out which wires are which and then we'll be able to test that um and then that'll also prove whether or not it's the freeze stat, which is buried in the evaporator. So we're going to dig into this right now cut some zip ties and trace the wires back.

So i kind of got ahead of myself because a minute ago we actually proved what was going on here. So when we test from the number three wire, that's leaving the clo right, the compressor lockout board so three to common. We get power right away, but then it drops out so the lockout board is dropping it out. So we're gon na turn it back on right.

Now so we get power, but then it drops out so okay go ahead and turn it off. It might be an issue with the lockout board or there's one last thing that we can try. It could be because the lockout board has a current sensing device and if it doesn't sense current, it will turn it off. So what i want to do actually is push in the contactor.

We know we have pressure so we're going to push in the contactor and do the same startup and see if, if it shuts it off again or if it stays on all right, so here's what we're gon na do. I'm gon na push the contactor in we're gon na turn on power and then we're gon na test between three and c to see. If uh it drops out on lockout again or if it stays running there, we go now see it's dropping out interesting, oh turn. It off, but that compressor is not even pumping when i pushed it in.

So it's not even doing anything. Hmm yeah that thing didn't even budge turn it on again. There see it pulled in now and we've got nothing yeah. The compressor is just not gon na run at all.

We need to test to make sure that it actually has three phase power, so leave it running and then come on over here and test on the bottom to see. If you get three phase, when i push it in you're gon na get 93 volts, that's not right! So what is going on here? We had three phase, but why are you only getting 93 volts? This is a real mystery test between one and two up here. 199, okay, now put it on the bottom and push it in there. It goes, but still it's only 173., all right, something's funky here this guy is fried on the inside of the contactor, but still there's a lot of weird stuff going on here right now, but we know that the contactors fried - i don't even know if i have Any of those right now, maybe i do um.

We know that there's an issue with this guy too the condenser family relay because that's not pulling in a lot of stuff going on here, we're starting by changing the contactor, because we know that's bad, then we're gon na work our way through that um, i don't Have the right condenser fan motor relay, but i have an ice cube relay we'll see if we can make that work or not. Okay, now that we change the contactor it's pulling in and it's stained running, so it was just going off on lockout because it couldn't sense current. So it has a current sensing device too. So the contactor itself was just bad inside it's just burnt and just not allowing voltage to go through correctly.

So we changed that out. That's good! We still got to get this condenser fan motor relay swapped out just to get the unit operational. We don't know if there's more problems, but we're just trying to you know, make sure everything's running all right. We were able to make the ice cube relay work, so we got it in there.

So now's the test, let's go ahead and turn it on. Okay, both compressors are running indoor blower still needs to call, but we need to make sure that we're doing it right. So we disconnect the jumper and condenser fan motors turn off. That is a good sign.

Okay, so we're doing good on that now we need to test to see if that's all that's wrong with the unit and if it's cooling, so obviously we're going to need to probe up on it completely for a junker unit. It's not too too bad sub. Coin's. A little bit high, but superheat's about where it should be.

This is circuit, one pressures are about where they should be. Temperature split is just a hair on the low side, 16 degrees target. That's not right, see, measure quick. This is annoying measure.

Quick. Does this because i'm looking at a package unit, okay and because it has two circuits, they split it up, which is annoying. So it's saying for one circuit you're, only looking for nine degrees, temp split, but i'm looking at the whole unit. This is what's frustrating on measure quick.

They haven't dialed in the multiple circuit crap, yet anyways whatever, but i mean it's not horrible. I mean that temp split is a little bit low, but i bet you. I could move the uh return. Air temperature clamp and get it a little bit better um so circuit two, let's go back sub coin's about 16 degrees, superheat still a little bit on the high side, but i don't know that i want to add any gas at this point.

Um we're just going to watch it for a little bit longer, so i went into the return air section and moved the return air probe because you have two stages in there. So when i move the return air probe, you can see what a difference, because now it's mixing a little bit of outside air. We got a 28 degree temp split, but this guy is kicking butt man. This guy is doing everything it can.

We got a 50 degree supply, i'm sorry, 54 degrees supply. I'm i'm satisfied with this unit. Again it's a piece of junk you're not going to make it perfect. Um go back to the first stage and again we need to go move that return air probe, because now it's reading the higher temperatures but superheats a hair on the low side, but i'm not really going to do much to this unit.

Again, it's polishing a turd. It's working um we're going to go ahead and go get the condenser fan motor and blade for this guy. So we can knock this one out too. My local carrier distributor had the fan motor for this guy, so we're putting a new motor and blade and a new capacitor for giggles, so uh i like to go back with the oem whenever possible.

So that way, the fan blade sticks in there correctly on this one right here i don't know if i can get up here. Not this is not an oem blade. So it's sticking down about three inches below that shroud and you run higher head pressure because of that, so we go back with the oem components whenever possible, these guys come with extra long wires that go underneath and then uh. They have ends on them like these and they don't need to be that long, so we cut them short and put new connectors on them.

So that way, you don't have a bunch of wires. All zip tied up into here so we'll still use these connectors, but we cut off. You know quite a bit of wire, okay, we're right and running. That's fine, we're right at current draw for what it should be.

It was right around 1.4, something two something like that, so we're right at 1.45, give it a minute, but that's good um we're gon na. Let it run for a few minutes, then probe up on it and check everything else out we're putting the unit together getting ready to probe up, and we notice that this guy is uh, really burnt this wire nut and uh, as i'm tape pulling the tape off It looks like there's some burnt wire back in there, so we're going to go ahead and repair this real quick. I don't have all new wire for this guy, but we'll at least get the uh a new wire nut put on there and get it taped up. This guy just turned on um, so it's still kind of stabilizing out, but it is not.

I mean it's looking pretty darn good just for being turned on um. We go to second stage. I it's looking pretty good. The condenser might be a little bit dirty, but i mean temps what's going to be off, but it's because we're mixing outside air so right now i have it down at the lower end of the coil.

So it's not getting quite the mixture yeah i mean we're. Not stabilized out and stuff, but i am not concerned with this whatsoever. This guy's looking like it's going to be fine and it was just a condenser fan. Motor issue as time goes on.

The temperature split will get better, i'm not going to spend too much more time wasting my time on this unit, yeah yeah, this guy's looking good. So i mean we got the new condenser fan motor in there. The condenser is relatively clean. We just cleaned it recently, but we didn't split it because i only had one person here, so we couldn't split them, so it could be a little dirty on the inside, but i don't think it's gon na be a big deal.

So now we got both of these units going um. Now i will say something: they asked me about their kitchen ac too we're gon na look into that real quick, but something that i noticed when i was down in there and i've told them this before they had their handymen doing work here and i had told Them we needed to replace a bunch of supply girls because they were all rusted out and they had their handyman. Do it and uh i'll try to get a picture of it and show you guys to pull up right now. Look at this guy i mean the the duct is just sitting in this thing, and it's like this for everyone in the kitchen.

It's really bad, but uh yeah. So the handyman was able to find the supply grills like the diffusers, but he didn't find the tapers for the duct, so the duct is literally just sitting in the supply grill, just conditioning the attic like it's just on top of it kind of like they figured. Oh yeah, we'll get it close enough. It'll come out, you know, so that's probably why their kitchen ac is warmer than it should be because my tech was already here, and he said this thing's kicking ass as far as the temperature split goes, but we'll still kind of check it out.

Do a quick check on it um i am going to talk to them about letting me fix all those supply diffusers in the kitchen, but i just can't deal with that right now, we're too busy to spend a day and a half fixing ductwork. I just can't deal with it. So all right, this is the kitchen ac. I just wanted to do a quick check on it, so we got all of our probes hooked up we're gon na go ahead and profile it.

So what we're gon na do is put it into um multi, multiple circuit, which again there's flaws to that we're gon na put in a multi-circuit, okay, two stages, then we're gon na go to first stage and we're gon na set it up. Uh. We got a package unit. This unit is a seven and a half ton, so we're gon na go three and a half ton, for you have to do it for each compressor.

It's kind of silly 13 to 16 seer yeah, that's actually what it is. Um we're gon na change it to a piston and everything else is good and then you got ta do the same for the second circuit system info three and a half ton, uh change it to a piston and good okay. So it's ready to be started up. Probes are on uh yeah.

All is well we're going to turn on the power i'm going to close the economizer on this one, because i just want to see the true operation of the unit. So i believe i have the economizer set too. Let's get in here. It's going to be hard to see this because the display is like really faded, so we're going to get out of status, we're going to go to set points, we're going to go to minimum position, we're going to change that to two bolts.

It was at five. I know that's like impossible for you guys to see. I don't even think if i turn the flash on yeah, you can kind of see if i turn the flash on, it's really like faded doesn't like the heat. So this is a two to ten volt actuator.

So two volts is going to be completely closed. Hit enter change is stored, okay, so now we need to go ahead and jump out the unit. We know that the thermostat works so we'll jump it out, get it running, put the panels on and check what measure quick has to say all right. We got both stages, running they've been running for a few minutes now and uh.

This is my second stage see we got really low, sub cooling um high superheat, it's looking like low charge. First stage is looking really good. 12 degrees, sub cooling, three degrees superheat. What are we calling for with the actual we're calling for five degrees? So that's not bad at all um, so it looks like we're.

Gon na have to add some gas to the uh second stage it looks like it is more than just the supply. Girls being messed up, um see what my uh temperature splits about 97 degrees outside get about a 25 degree temperature split right now: yeah, okay, all right! Well, we're gon na try to add a little bit of refrigerant to the uh second stage and see how it reacts. Juga410A, we purged everything. Um, we've already added a little bit of refrigerant.

We got our sub coin up to four, but we're aiming for about 12 to 16 degrees is what i typically see on these units. So i'm just adding gas by actuating the ball valve. Again, we purged everything, so it really didn't take much refrigerant. We got ourselves to about 3.6 degrees, sub coin, i'm sorry uh super heat and then about 10 ish to 12 ish kind of ranging on the stuff, cooling um, we're aiming for about five degrees superheat, but we're gon na give it some time to stabilize out.

But it really didn't take much gas i'd, say: maybe a pound, maybe two at the most um. What really got me was when i walked over to this unit, just to kind of see how well it was working. It had a decent td, but i noticed that the first stage suction line was sweating really good and the second stage wasn't so. I opened it up and stuck my hands on it and you could see a noticeable temperature difference between first and second stage.

So that's why i wanted to put gauges on it. Well, that's looking pretty good. So if we go to first stage and see where we're at on that one first stage, i didn't add any gas to first stage the superheat's about 2.6 sub coins about 10 degrees, guys this is about where it is. Let's see what our temperature split is at 27 degree, temp split, i don't know what the heck is up with that.

I don't know if we're still mixing air or something we might be still mixing some outside air, but i know it's hot in the kitchen and then also we know we have air duct leakages too, because what i told you they've replaced all the registers and it's All jacked up so um, okay, well we're going to uh, leave it at that for now and we're going to talk to them in the future about fixing all the air duct leakages but, like i said, i can't really deal with that right now. We'll do a quick leak search just across this guy and i'll come back. If i find anything but we're not going to really dive too deep into it all right, i looked for a leak. I couldn't find anything i did, but look at this compressor.

The compressor is kind of covered in oil, so i noticed that some of the caps are missing the gasket, so i put all new caps with gaskets on them, but it wasn't leaking from the core max fitting. But who knows? But i did a quick check. Nothing. So we'll just tell them to keep an eye on it.

Like i said on the last video, it's like more and more of these service calls where we've got multiple acs down. So what i started doing um is sending out another tech to go just clean the equipment before i even go out there like. So that way you know i'm not there cleaning stuff and i can actually just troubleshoot just because it's so chaotic right now, um. You know i'm going around from call to call trying to put out fires, you know um and we're finding more and more of this stuff, and i actually you know as far as like the ductwork issues and stuff, i have to prioritize that and that's at the Bottom of my list, i just don't - have time to get involved and it's you know it may seem as simple like.

Oh just go, get some tapers, you know eight to tens or whatever they are, and you know change them all out. It's no big deal, but it always leads to more. You know when you, when you start investigating duct work in these restaurants. That's original duct work from the 80s.

None of that's been changed, so once you get up there, you usually find like oh gosh. This all needs to be replaced. You know you need to replace sections of it. It just gets to be a pain and that's not something that we can do right now with all this chaos.

You know that's something for the winter time where you can go, spend a couple days fixing a bunch of ductwork issues and stuff, so we definitely have to prioritize this stuff and push it off. You know i've even got like ac changeouts, where i'm telling the customer. We need to change this ac, but i got it going for now and we can change it like october november. You know and they're like well, let's just change it now.

It's like it's, it sounds great. All the customers always want to just do everything right in the middle of the summer, and it's like i can't get to all this stuff. I've got refrigeration equipment, uh, walking, cooler equipment that they sent out that they want me to install at one of the restaurants. It's been sitting there for three months now, because it's like, i just don't have time or the manpower you know, everybody's short staffed.

Just like we are, and you know i've got my new apprentice working with me and he's doing really good. But it's going to take some time. You know we got a good year of this uh him. You know shadowing me, letting you know me letting him.

You know dig into things and stuff like that. It's going to take some time so, but we'll get there. So this one, you know we went through three different acs. We started on one of them that had a bad condenser fan motor something.

I will tell you too, that i didn't. I realized, as i was editing, i didn't catch footage of was. I did check the belts on every single unit too to make sure that they were all nice and tight. Even though i had someone out here, i still double checked it so anyways um.

So the first unit we had a bad condenser fan motor okay um. While i, after i condemned that i jumped onto the other unit to kind of triage everything and found, we had a bad contact or a bad control relay um, and then we went ahead and bypassed the economizer too, because it was already you know, broken. The actuator was already screwed open or whatever, so we took care of that got that unit going and then we jumped onto the kitchen ac. I did not thoroughly go through their other acs, but they were running so i just kind of left it at that.

You know - and i explained everything to the manager too, like that i want to get in there and start redoing ductwork for the kitchen, ac and stuff, and we will. I just can't deal with it right now, like i said so um. This is just happening more and more. Like i said on the last video you know you know coming out of the the the lockdown and all that stuff.

Nobody was spending money, nobody was doing maintenance services and things like that, and you know we're finding more and more of these multiple issue service calls where you really have to be able to have your thinking cap on and be able to look. You know kind of like i did the first one you're just triaging. Okay, there's nothing! I can do i'm gon na keep on diagnosing because there's nothing worse than stopping at that first unit, driving all the way to the supply house to get back to find out. Oh, i got ta go back to the supply house because these other units need parts too.

So i always try to triage like that. At the same time, it's a double-edged sword because there's some people - and it's not really that there's necessarily anything wrong with this. But there's some people that can't handle multiple tasks. I've had people that have worked for me in the past that, if you give them all their jobs and all their service calls at the beginning of the day, they lose sight of the the service call they're on.

So you know when you come into these multiple things down, it can be difficult for some service technicians. As you get more experience as you get more drive to want to learn and be better, then it gets easier and easier to handle multiple issues. So it's a double-edged sword with the whole triaging thing, but i did that we we diagnosed the other one. I luckily had the parts and i was able to go - get the fan motor dial that one in and then you know just kind of dive into that kitchen ac.

I really didn't dive too hard into looking for a leak. It was only a little low topped. It off, like i said i put new service caps on it and you know that's pretty much it tomorrow. I've got more of these service calls.

I mean just every day, just just start over again, it's kind of like groundhog day. You know same music playing same time. Same coffee boom go to work, come home, go to sleep seems like that's all the summers are lately, but i do want to say thank you guys. So very much as things have been hectic.

You know my normal schedules of posting videos live streams and stuff like that, has really been altered. I haven't been as regular as i have been over the last three four years where everything's been so super consistent. This is definitely a different summer. There's a lot of challenges for me, so i have been prioritizing family and work and kind of pushing videos and live streams on the back burner because of course you know, i got ta, keep feeding my family and paying attention to my family.

So, thank you guys for understanding that. Okay, i know the live. Streams have really been suffering, but we'll get back to them. You know when things kind of slow down a little bit and i have a little more time to think um.

You know if you guys haven't already: please uh check out my website. Hvacr videos.com, um, shirts, hats, all that stuff helps to support the channel. Any little bit helps um. You know the easiest way to support the channel is simply watch the videos from beginning to end when you guys watch the videos from beginning to end youtube plays those commercials, okay and by playing the commercials uh.

They they share some of the ad revenue. It's a very small amount, but they share some of the ad revenue with me and that helps to kind of keep this stuff going, because i do spend a lot of time on it. So um other ways that you can help. Obviously the website hvacrvideos.com, you can uh donate through paypal.

You can donate through youtube, channel memberships, um, patreon, there's links and all that stuff in the show notes of this video, so um but hey. I really really appreciate you guys and uh. We will catch you on the next one: okay.